fig. 10-co, p. 264
DESCRIPTION
Fig. 10-CO, p. 264. Fig. 10-1, p. 266. Wave direction. Wave. Fig. 10-1, p. 266. Wave. Wave direction. Stepped Art. Fig. 10-1, p. 266. Fig. 10-2, p. 266. Direction of wave motion. A. B. Wavelength. Height. Still water level. Trough. Crest. - PowerPoint PPT PresentationTRANSCRIPT
![Page 1: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/1.jpg)
Fig. 10-CO, p. 264
![Page 2: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/2.jpg)
Fig. 10-1, p. 266
![Page 3: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/3.jpg)
Fig. 10-1, p. 266
Wave directionWave
![Page 4: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/4.jpg)
Fig. 10-1, p. 266
Wave directionWave
Stepped Art
![Page 5: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/5.jpg)
Fig. 10-2, p. 266
![Page 6: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/6.jpg)
Fig. 10-2, p. 266
Direction of wave motion
A B
Wavelength
Height
Still water level Crest Trough
Frequency: Number of wave crests passing point A or point B each second
Orbital path of individual water molecule at water surface
Period: Time required for wave crest at point A to reach point B
![Page 7: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/7.jpg)
Fig. 10-3, p. 267
![Page 8: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/8.jpg)
Fig. 10-3, p. 267
Direction of wave motion
Wave-length
Still water levelCrest Trough Crest
1/2 wave-length depth
![Page 9: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/9.jpg)
Fig. 10-4, p. 267
![Page 10: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/10.jpg)
Fig. 10-4, p. 267
Stokes drift (mass
transport)
No mass transport
Wave
Wave
Closed orbit after one period
Open orbit after one period
![Page 11: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/11.jpg)
Table 10-1, p. 268
![Page 12: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/12.jpg)
Fig. 10-5, p. 269
![Page 13: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/13.jpg)
Fig. 10-5, p. 269
Seismic disruptionDisturbing forcelandslides
Gravity Wind
Restoring force GravitySurface tension
Type of wave Tide Tsunami Seiche Wind wave Capillary wave (ripple)
24 hr.
Am
ou
nt
of
ener
gy
in o
cean
su
rfac
e
100,000 sec (1 1/4 days)
10,000 sec (3 hr)
1,000 sec (17 min)
100 sec 10 sec 1 sec 1/10 sec 1/100 sec
Period (time, in seconds for two successive wave crests to
pass a fixed point)
1 10 100
Frequency (waves per second)
12 hr.
![Page 14: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/14.jpg)
Fig. 10-6, p. 269
![Page 15: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/15.jpg)
Fig. 10-7, p. 270
![Page 16: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/16.jpg)
Fig. 10-7, p. 270
30.6
Wavelength (m)
0 100 200 300 400 500 600
27.818
17 6225.0 15
22.211 14
13 16 50
9 12 37
19.4
16.6
11.0
5.6 4 138.4
3
57
Sp
eed
(m
ph
)
Period (in
seconds)
2513.8
Sp
eed
(m
/sec
)
2.80.0
10
2
Wavelength (ft)
0 328 656 984 1,312 1,640 1,968
10
86
![Page 17: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/17.jpg)
Fig. 10-8, p. 271
![Page 18: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/18.jpg)
Fig. 10-8, p. 271
Wind
b
aSea surface
Maximum wavelength 1.73 cm (0.68 in.)
![Page 19: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/19.jpg)
Fig. 10-9, p. 271
![Page 20: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/20.jpg)
Fig. 10-10, p. 272
![Page 21: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/21.jpg)
Fig. 10-10, p. 272
5 4 3 2 1
6 5 4 3 2 1
6 5 4 3 2
7 6 5 4 3
7 6 5 4 3
7 6 5 4
8 7 6 5
8 7 6 5
![Page 22: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/22.jpg)
Fig. 10-10, p. 272
Stepped Art
7 6 5 4 3
6 5 4 3 2
8 7 6 5
8 7 6 5
7 6 5 4 3
5 4 3 2 1
7 6 5 4
6 5 4 3 2 1
![Page 23: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/23.jpg)
Fig. 10-11, p. 273
![Page 24: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/24.jpg)
Fig. 10-11, p. 273
Fully developed seas
Changing to swellRipples to chop
to wind waves
Direction of wave advance
Wind
Length of fetch
![Page 25: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/25.jpg)
Table 10-2, p. 273
![Page 26: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/26.jpg)
Fig. 10-12, p. 274
![Page 27: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/27.jpg)
Fig. 10-13, p. 274
![Page 28: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/28.jpg)
Fig. 10-14, p. 275
![Page 29: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/29.jpg)
Fig. 10-14, p. 275
7 across
1 high
120°
![Page 30: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/30.jpg)
Fig. 10-15, p. 275
![Page 31: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/31.jpg)
Fig. 10-15, p. 275
1 2
a
b
Constructive interference
(addition)
Destructive interference (subtraction)
Constructive interference
(addition)
![Page 32: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/32.jpg)
Fig. 10-16, p. 276
![Page 33: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/33.jpg)
Fig. 10-17, p. 277
![Page 34: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/34.jpg)
Fig. 10-17, p. 277
1 2 4 53
Depth = 1/2 wavelength
Surf zone
![Page 35: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/35.jpg)
Box 10-1, p. 278
![Page 36: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/36.jpg)
Fig. 10-18a, p. 279
![Page 37: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/37.jpg)
Fig. 10-18b, p. 279
![Page 38: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/38.jpg)
Fig. 10-19a, p. 279
![Page 39: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/39.jpg)
Fig. 10-19a, p. 279
Direction of progress
Wave crests
Waves begin to "feel bottom" here, water depth is L/2.
Bottom contours
Shoreline
![Page 40: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/40.jpg)
Fig. 10-19b, p. 279
![Page 41: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/41.jpg)
Fig. 10-20a, p. 280
![Page 42: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/42.jpg)
Fig. 10-20b, p. 280
![Page 43: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/43.jpg)
Fig. 10-20b, p. 280
Waves A and B create a checkerboard of peaks and troughs
A
B
![Page 44: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/44.jpg)
Fig. 10-21, p. 280
![Page 45: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/45.jpg)
Fig. 10-22, p. 280
![Page 46: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/46.jpg)
Fig. 10-22, p. 280
(Every tenth wave crest shown)
0
10 Waves moving
20
30
Islands
Areas of wave crest reinforcement due to diffraction and interference
![Page 47: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/47.jpg)
Fig. 10-23, p. 281
![Page 48: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/48.jpg)
Fig. 10-23a, p. 281
NodeCrest
Node NodeCrest
Trough No motion Maximum water flow
No motion
1 2 3
![Page 49: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/49.jpg)
Fig. 10-23b, p. 281
Node Node
Crest
TroughMaximum water flow
No motionTrough
4 5
Starts again at 2
![Page 50: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/50.jpg)
Fig. 10-24a, p. 282
![Page 51: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/51.jpg)
Fig. 10-24a, p. 282
Wind waves on surface
Less dense water Pycnocline
Internal wave crestDenser
water
![Page 52: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/52.jpg)
Fig. 10-24b, p. 282
![Page 53: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/53.jpg)
Fig. 10-24c, p. 282
![Page 54: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/54.jpg)
Fig. 10-25a, p. 283
![Page 55: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/55.jpg)
Fig. 10-25a, p. 283
CCW spin
Direction of storm and storm surge
Low atmospheric pressureDome of water
![Page 56: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/56.jpg)
Dome of water
Low atmospheric pressure
CCW spin
Direction of storm and storm surge
Stepped Art
Fig. 10-25a, p. 283
![Page 57: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/57.jpg)
Fig. 10-25b, p. 283
![Page 58: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/58.jpg)
Fig. 10-26a, p. 284
![Page 59: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/59.jpg)
Fig. 10-26b, p. 284
![Page 60: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/60.jpg)
Fig. 10-27a, p. 285
![Page 61: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/61.jpg)
Fig. 10-27b, p. 285
![Page 62: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/62.jpg)
Fig. 10-27b, p. 285
176
175Buffalo
174
173Toledo
172
Lak
e E
rie
wat
er l
evel
(m
eter
s ab
ove
sea
lev
el)
171 12:00
0:00
12:00
0:00
12:00
0:00
12:00
12 November 13 November 14 November 15 November
b Date
0:00
![Page 63: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/63.jpg)
Fig. 10-28, p. 286
![Page 64: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/64.jpg)
Fig. 10-29a, p. 287
![Page 65: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/65.jpg)
Fig. 10-29b, p. 287
![Page 66: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/66.jpg)
Fig. 10-29c, p. 287
![Page 67: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/67.jpg)
Fig. 10-29d, p. 287
![Page 68: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/68.jpg)
Fig. 10-29e, p. 287
![Page 69: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/69.jpg)
Fig. 10-30, p. 288
![Page 70: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/70.jpg)
Fig. 10-31, p. 288
![Page 71: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/71.jpg)
Fig. 10-32a, p. 289
![Page 72: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/72.jpg)
Fig. 10-32b, p. 289
![Page 73: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/73.jpg)
Fig. 10-32c, p. 289
![Page 74: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/74.jpg)
Fig. 10-33, p. 290
![Page 75: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/75.jpg)
Fig. 10-34, p. 290
![Page 76: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/76.jpg)
Fig. 10-34, p. 290
November 14, 1994 Mindoro Island Maximum wave: 7 m Fatalities: 49
July 12, 1993 Okushiri, Japan Maximum wave:31 m Fatalities: 239
October 9, 1995 Jalisco, Mexico Maximum wave: 11 m Fatalities: 1
January 1, 1996 Sulawesi Island Maximum wave: 3.4 m Fatalities: 9
February 17, 1996 Irian Jaya Maximum wave: 7.7 m Fatalities: 161
September 2, 1992 Nicaragua Maximum wave: 10 m Fatalities: 170
December 12, 1992 Flores Island Maximum wave: 26 m Fatalities: >1,000
July 17, 1998 Papua New Guinea Maximum wave: 15 m Fatalities: >2,200
June 2, 1994 East Java Maximum wave: 14 m Fatalities: 238
December 26, 2004 Indonesia and vicinity Maximum wave: 35 m Fatalities: >176,000
February 21, 1996 North coast of Peru Maximum wave: 5 m Fatalities: 12
![Page 77: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/77.jpg)
Fig. 10-35, p. 291
![Page 78: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/78.jpg)
Fig. 10-36a, p. 292
![Page 79: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/79.jpg)
Fig. 10-36b, p. 292
![Page 80: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/80.jpg)
Fig. 10-36c, p. 292
![Page 81: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/81.jpg)
Fig. 10-37, p. 293
![Page 82: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/82.jpg)
Fig. 10-37, p. 293
GOES Satellite
Transducers
Signal flag Acoustic telemetry
Glass ball flotation ~6000 m
TransducerBottom pressure recorder
Sensor anchor
Anchor
![Page 83: Fig. 10-CO, p. 264](https://reader035.vdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022062422/56813a4b550346895da2441d/html5/thumbnails/83.jpg)
Table 10-3, p. 293