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8/13/2019 Factors of Skin Aging _ GCIMagazine

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Factors ofSkin AgingBy : Katerina Steventon, PhD

Posted: July 10, 2013, from theJuly2013issue ofGCIMagazine.

Anti-aging is the largest sales driver of skin care beauty products today.

Factors that affect skin aging include intrinsic, extrinsic, hormonal and catabolic, and all ofthese affect f acial skin

differently, so it is important to know about them and their differences to development effective skin care products.

To properly address aging skin, anti-aging products will likely need to contain ingredients and elements that canaffect multiple skin aging factors, becoming all-in-one products.

Editors note:This articleoriginally ran in theMay 2013 issueofCosme tics & Toiletries magaz ine. All rights reserved.

For the increasingly aging population, the quest to look younger has become m ore important than ever. The anti-agingmarket is boom ing and represents the key growth engine for the entire skin care industry. Consum ers have highexpectations for the efficacy ofskin care and want to see visible results. Thus, creating effective anti-aging productsrequires a thorough understanding ofconsumers cognitive and emotional needs, formulation and development

chemis try, and perhaps most ofall, the biologyofskin aging.1

Perceived age is the marker for facial aging.2 And aging a ffects the texture and color ofskin as well as the shape oftheface.

The Biology of Skin Aging

The process ofskin aging is complex and multifactorial, as structural, functional and aesthetic changes happen at avariable rate. It is m isleading to consider skin aging as a uniform biological event; several distinct biological process es

may occur concurrently.3

There are m ultiple factors of skin aging, including intrinsic, extrinsic, hormonal and catabolic, which will be discuss ed infurther detail here. Intrinsic, chronological aging reflects the passage oftime from gravityand genetics. Extrinsic agingis usually attributed to photoaging and sm oking. Hormonal aging involves dysfunction or aging ofhormonal s ystems.

And catabolic aging is related to chronic diseases .

Intrinsic aging:Intrinsic skin aging is a slow process with clinical features s uch as sm ooth, pale, dry and less elasticskin having fine wrinkles that are not apparent until old age. Intrinsically aged skin shows epidermal and dermalatrophy, reduced fibroblasts, less collagen and more matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). Its structurally altered dermal-

epidermal junction (DEJ) may contribute to increased skin fragility and reduced nutrient transfer between the dermal

and epidermal layers.4

Extrinsic aging: Extrinsic aging, due to chronic exposure to s olar ultraviolet irradiation (photoaging) and smoking, leadsto deep and coarse wrinkles, m ottled hyperpigmentation and reduced s kin elasticity. Facial skin bears theaccumulation oflifelong sun exposure, which is responsible for 80% ofthe effects offacial skin aging. Smoking alsoaccelerates aging, causing the degradation ofelastic fibers and a significant increase in facial wrinkles. The wrinkles ofsm okers are deep and narrow, compared to nonsmokers. This pattern ofwrinkling is referred to as smo kers face

and often is accompanied by gaunt features a nd atrophic, gray, uneven s kin color.5 Further, pursing the lips andsquinting while inhaling smoke m ay lead to the formation ofsharplycontoured crows feet and prominent peri-orallines.

Hormonal and c atabolic aging: The skin is a hormone-dependent organ, and the decline ofhormonal secretionsduring menopause accelerates s kin aging. Menopause appears as a turning point in life, with a decline in skin

qualities.6 Estrogen in particular has a profound effect on skin, encouraging extracellular matrixproduction and

preventing decreases in collagen, skin thickness , skin hydration and epidermal barrier function.7 Increased s agging,

as opposed to coarse wrinkles, is the main s ymptom ofpostmenopausal aging.8

Catabolic aging compromises older skin further through the impact ofa specific chronic disease, such as diabetes,hypothyroidism, cancer or infection.
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HolisticApproach

Anti-aging skin care technologies have become increasingly high-tech, targeting specific cellular phenomena. However,as illustrated above, skin aging is the sum ofseveral concurrent aging processes, which differ in aging contributionamong individuals. Photoaging has received more attention in research and the media, but is only one aspect oftheaging process. Although the rationale for sun protection is widely advocated, people still ass ociate it with occasional

holiday exposure.9 Photoaging affects people ofthe same age and photo-type differently10 and might not becomeapparent for decades after the initial damage. To ensure good environmental protection, daily skin care productscontaining a combination ofSPF 20+ and a spectrum ofantioxidants should be used.

Postmenopausal skin aging is often neglected in the class ical aging concept, as its im pact is difficult to estimate. Inwomen, intrinsic and postmenopausal aging are linked. There is an array of technologies designed to aid skinchanges from intrinsic aging or menopause. Examples ofactives clinically tested, although on forearms and not facial

skin, include c-xyloside, which was shown to repair the DEJ,11 and bifidobacterium-fermented soy milk extract, which

improved skin elasticity.12

Skin aging is an interplay ofthe different types ofaging that differs between individuals; the best approach entails theuse ofmultifunctional active ingredients that address more than one type. Also, shifting consumer attitudes toward amore holis tic approach to skin health represents the next educational challenge for skin care and beautybrands.

References

1. Anti-aging, in-cosm etics 2013, www.in-cosmetics.com/en/sess ions/1325/anti-aging(Accessed Mar 10, 2013)

2. DA Gunn et al, Why some women look young for their age, PLoS ONE, 4(12) e8021,

doi:10.1371/journal.po ne.0008021, www.plosone.org/article/info:doi/10.1371/journal.pon e.0008021(Accessed Mar10, 2013)

3. P Quatresooz, C Pirard-Franchimont, M Kharfi ,K Al Rustom, CA Chian, R Garcia, MR Kamoun, GE Pirard, Skin inmaturity: The endocrine and neuroendocrine pathways, Int J Cos Sci, 29(6) (2007) 17,http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1467-2494.2007.00350.x/full (Accessed Mar 10, 2013)

4. AK Langton, MJ Sherratt, CE Griffiths and RE Watson, A new wrinkle on old skin: The role ofelastic fibres in skinaging, Int J Cosmet Sci, (2010)www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20572890(Accessed Mar 10, 2013)

5. D Model, Smokers face: An underrated clinical s ign?, Br Med J (Clin Res Ed), 291(6511) 17601762 (Dec 21281985)www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/3936573 (Access ed Mar 10, 2013)

6. C Pirard-Franchimont, F Cornil, J Dehavay, F Deleixhe-Mauhin, B Letot and GE Pirard, Climacteric skin ageing ofthe faceA prospective longitudinal comparative trial on the effect oforal hormone replacement therapy, Maturitas,Jun 21 32(2) 8793 (1999), www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10465376 (Access ed Mar 10, 2013)

7. MG Shah and HI Maibach, Estrogen and skin. An overview,Am J Cl in Derm atol, 2001 2(3) 143150,www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11705091(Accessed Mar 10, 2013)

8. GE Pirard, The quandary ofclimacteric s kin aging, Dermatology, 193(4) 273274 (1996),www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/8993948(Access ed Mar 10, 2013)

9. G Nole and AW Johnson, An analysis ofcumulative lifetime solar ultraviolet radiation exposure and the benefits ofdaily sun protection, Dermatol Ther, 17 Suppl 1:5762 (2004)www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/14728700(AccessedMar 10, 2013)

10. GE Pirard, Skin ageing, a fresh look at an old story, J Cosmet Dermatol, Jan 3(1) 1 (2004),www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/17163940(Accessed Mar 10, 2013)

11. C Deloche, AM Minodo, BA Bernard, F Bernerd, F Salas, J Garnier and E Tancrde, Effect ofc-xyloside onmorphogenesis ofthe dermal epidermal junction in aged female s kin. An ultrastructural pilot study, Eur J Dermatol,

MarApr 21(2) (2011)

12. K Miyazaki, T Hanamizu, T Sone, K Chiba, T Kinoshita and S Yoshikawa, Topical application ofBifidobacterium-fermented soy milk extract containing genistein and daidzein im proves rheological and physiological properties ofskin,J Cosmet Sci, SepOct 55(5) 473479 (2004)

Katerina Steventon, PhD, of FaceWorkshops, is an independent consultant to the skin care industry and the general public. She holds a

doctorate in transdermal absorption and has more than 20 years of experience in skin research at companies, including Shiseido,

Juvena/LaPrairie, and Smith and Nephew Wound Management. Her consultancy provides objective recommendations to consumers on

personalized skin care routines and facial treatments, and her column, Consumer Perspective, will provide readers with unique insight on

this commercial/scientific interface. [email protected].
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