exterior cladding / finishing -...

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©TAFE NSW Construction and Transport Division 1

EXTERIOR CLADDING / FINISHING

This text introduces subject matter related to cladding, finishing and enclosing timber wall frame cottages. It builds on knowledge and skills acquired during the first stage, which should be revised and practiced throughout the course. Reference may be made to “Basic Building and Construction Skills”, produced by TAFE and Addison, Wesley, Longman Australia Pty Limited, to re-examine and reinforce these basic skills. Various traditional and alternative types of cladding materials and their cutting and fixing techniques for timber framed cottages are outlined. It also addresses methods of attaching cladding materials to masonry surfaces and the enclosing of a timber framed cottage using a veneer of brickwork. Also, calculation of sheet and board material quantities and costs is covered. Note: These cladding materials may also be used for steel framed walls. A comprehensive ‘Glossary of Terms’ is included at the end of the text, which provides a detailed description of trade terms, technical content and some trade jargon.

EXTERIOR CLADDING/FINISHING


INTRODUCTION TO CLADDING A cladding may be defined as being the surface covering or skin of the external walls of a framed, or partly framed, building. Materials used may include timber, manufactured board or sheet products, F.C. sheeting with a rendered finish known as ‘Stucco’ or a tyrolean finish applied with a Tyrol gun, also known as ‘Conite’, brick and/or masonry veneer, metal backed brickwork and PVC or Aluminium siding. The cladding may enclose the whole building or only sections of the building such as: • the walls to a second storey addition; • infill panels above or below windows; • one wall of an upper floor where it is not possible to support brickwork; • gable or gambrel ends; • dormer window walls; • irregular shaped walls of a semi-octagonal ended room; • separate framed garages; and • low cost extensions. In many cases sheet, strip, shingle or board type claddings are used an inexpensive means of enclosing walls or to create a featured appearance. FUNCTION OF CLADDING Claddings are designed to carry out the following functions: • withstand and protect the building from weathering by the elements, i.e. sun, rain, wind,

snow, etc; • provides additional strength by acting like bracing to prevent racking under load; • prevents the entry of unwanted persons, animals, insects, etc; • provide a pleasing or alternative aesthetic appearance; • provide an additional means of insulating the building against heat and cold; and • provide an insulation against noise by reflecting or absorbing sound.

Fig. 1 Typical building enclosed using cladding material

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TYPES OF CLADDING SOLID TIMBER WEATHERBOARDS Timber, with good durability characteristics, provides a long lasting wall covering provided it is correctly and regularly maintained. Suitable chemical impregnation, external oil or paint applications will ensure the timber withstands the effects of weathering, timber decay and pest attack. Not all timber is suitable for external use, therefore only Class 1 or 2 durability timber is recommended. Untreated Class 3 and 4 timbers such as Oregon, Radiata pine, Tasmanian oak, etc. shall not be used for weather exposed structural members and are not recommended or preferred for any other external purpose. Note: Class 4 timbers may be upgraded for external use if they have been pressure treated in their green state with a preservative such as CCA (Copper Chromium and Arsenic salts), which turns the natural colour of the timber a characteristic copper green. Suitable timbers for external use are as follows: TABLE 1 NATURAL DURABILITY OF THE HEARTWOOD OF TIMBER Boards may be placed vertically, horizontally, diagonally or in patterns like herringbone:

Fig. 2 Common weatherboard placement

CLASS 1 CLASS 2 White Cypress pine Spotted gum

Ironbark Kwila (Merbau) Grey gum Blackbutt

Tallowwood New England Blackbutt Turpentine Western red Cedar

Yellow & White Stringybark River Red gum

VERTICAL HORIZONTAL

DIAGONAL HERRINGBONE



COMMON WEATHERBOARD PROFILES Weatherboards are designed to shed water and prevent wind passing through the joints. The joints may be simply lapped, rebated or have a combination of a rebate and groove. There are various profiles, which have also been copied in alternative materials, to allow the user to create a functional and decorative surface. Most timber weatherboards have a shallow warping groove milled into the back surface to reduce the amount of warping or cupping, which occurs naturally in wide timber boards. Pliable, permeable sarking is often used as a backing to increase the insulation and weatherproofing properties of the boards.

Fig. 3 Typical timber weatherboard profiles

SPLAYED SPLAYED, CHECKED AND CHAMFERED

SPLAYED, CHECKED AND NOSED

RUSTICATED SEMI-RUSTICATED

DOUBLE LOG CABIN DOUBLE TEAR DROP SHIP LAP

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METHODS OF JOINTING AND CONNECTING WEATHERBOARDS Straight jointing Weatherboards are designed to be joined on a stud by butt jointing and skew nailing to hold the ends tight. The ends of the boards are cut square, or slightly undercut to produce a tight surface fit, and the end grain sealed with an appropriate pink or white timber primer. The primer is designed to prevent the end grain absorbing excessive moisture, i.e. above 18% moisture content, which will result in timber decay starting. The ends of the boards should be pre-drilled to prevent end splitting during the nailing process and if sarking is not used a strip of flashing, similar to ‘Alcore’, should be placed directly behind the joint to prevent water penetration to the frame.

Fig. 4 Straight jointing on a stud

Lining

Joined board

Stud

Joint Flashing

Primed end grain



Internal corner jointing The internal corner connection between weatherboards may be made in several ways. The boards may be scribed over oneanother, which is time consuming, or they may be simply butt jointed against an internal corner stop mould. If there is no sarking on the wall frames the corner should be flashed for the full height, similar to the straight joint method. The end grain is sealed with an appropriate pink or white timber primer. The primer is designed to prevent the end grain absorbing excessive moisture, i.e. above 18% moisture content, which will result in timber decay starting.

Fig. 5 Joining weatherboards at an internal corner

Corner mould

Approved lining

Bottom plate

Corner studs

Corner flashing were required

Internal corner Stop mould

Approved cladding

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External corner jointing The external corners may be jointed the same as for internal corners, including a flashing behind the weatherboards. Alternatively, they may be mitred or be butt jointed with butt jointed cover battens placed over the boards on either side of the corner. If butt jointing or mitring is used, the end grain must be sealed with an appropriate pink or white timber primer to prevent timber decay. These methods tend not to be used often, as the mitred joints are time consuming to fit neatly and the cover battens form hollows behind them when used on profiled weatherboards, which insect pests like house spiders tend to exploit.

Fig. 6 Joining weatherboards at an external corner Fasteners for weatherboards Jolt or bullet head nails are used for all general nailing of weatherboards as they can be punched. All nails for external use must have a rust proof coating such as galvanised, cadmium or nickel-plated. Skew nailing is preferred as it prevents the boards from lifting off the studs when the timber shrinks. Spiral or helical shank nails may also be used to improve grip.

Fig. 7 Coated bullet head nail

Weatherboards

Corner Mould

Skirting Block

Halved Joint

Bottom Plate

Internal Lining

2 to 2.5 'T'

When 'T' equals the thickness of the weatherboard



SHINGLES and SHAKES These are thin rectangular shaped pieces of timber, which are lapped and fixed to provide a waterproof surface for walls and roofs. They are mainly cut or split from Western red Cedar as it provides the best splitting qualities and is very durable, i.e. Class 2 durability. Shingles are sawn and tend to be used mainly for wall cladding, whereas shakes are split with a rough texture and mainly used for roof coverings. Types • straight split; • taper split; and • hand split and re-sawn. They range is length from 450mm to 600mm and widths of 100mm to 300mm. They are available in strapped bundles for ease of stacking and storing. When fixed in place the joints are staggered to allow at least 40mm on either side under the join with approximately 200mm exposed from the end of one shingle to the end of the next. Shingles tend to be used for feature walls or panels under or above bay windows with a permeable building paper being used under walls/facades and roofs.

Fig. 8 Typical shingle and shake

Fig. 9 Shingles used as cladding on a wall/facade

Sawn Timber Shingle

Handsplit Timber Shake

Galvanised flathead nails Wall studs

50 x 25 battens

Permeable membrane 20

0

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FIBRE CEMENT PRODUCTS Background In 1917 asbestos cement sheets began to be manufactured locally, by ‘Wunderlich’s, at Cabarita, Sydney and by ‘Hardies’ at Camellia on the Parramatta river. Hardies called their product ‘Fibrolite’, which was shortened and commonly referred to as ‘Fibro’. By 1927 the available brands were ‘Asbestolite’, ‘Durabestos’, Eternit’, ‘Fibrolite’, ‘Fibro-cement’, ‘Herculite’, ‘Poilite’ and ‘Titanic’. These bonded asbestos products have since been withdrawn from the market but were widely used up to the early 1980’s. Asbestos is a hazardous mineral fibre, which causes lung diseases such as asbestosis, lung cancer and mesothelioma. ( Refer to pp. 143 – 145, Fibre and dust hazards, Basic Building and Construction Skills, Second Edition, for further information and risk assessment) The present day products are made by ‘James Hardie Building Products’ in a range of types and finishes. Fibre cement, F.C., is manufactured by blending cellulose fibre (reinforcement), finely ground silica (sand), and general purpose cement (hardening agent) with water, then rolling or pressing it into the desired product. The finished product is very durable, serviceable and fairly easy to fix. SHEETS PanelClad™ sheets are available in two types: • Stucco – which has a surface texture similar to swirled render. They are available in sheet

sizes of 2440mm and 3000mm long x 1200mm wide x 6mm thick; and • TextureLine – which has a surface texture similar to band sawn timber with regular

smooth grooves. They are available in sheet sizes of 2440mm and 2700mm long x 1198mm wide x 6mm thick.

Hardiflex™ sheets are available in a smooth surface finish. They are available in the following sheet sizes: TABLE 2 SHEET SIZES

LENGTH mm WIDTH mm THICKNESS mm 1800 900 4.5 1800 1200 4.5, 6.0 2100 1200 4.5 2400 900, 1200 4.5, 6.0 2700 900 4.5 2700 1200 4.5, 6.0 3000 900 4.5 3000 1200 4.5, 6.0



Installation, Fixing and Jointing Vertical Jointing Vertical joints may be sealed and finished using a number of options: • Timber batten over joint; • PVC straight jointer; and • Special jointer for Textureline sheets. Note: Vertical joints in Stucco sheets may be nail fixed to studs, with a 3mm gap between sheets, and then filled with a flexible joint sealant.

Fig. 10 Timber batten joint covering

Fig. 11 PVC straight jointer Fig. 12 Textureline jointer Horizontal Jointing Horizontal joints are waterproofed and finished using a PVC horizontal flashing mould for 6mm sheets and a PVC drip-strip for 4.5mm sheets. They are nail fixed to studs and the mid rail of noggings. Traditional horizontal joint treatments involved fitting a metal ‘Z’ flashing between sheets and covering the joint with a nailed on fibre cement ‘C’ cover mould.

Fig. 13 Traditional jointing method

12mm 12mm

MIN. MIN.

Vapour permeable sarking

12mm

Min

Fix jointing strip at 200mm centres


12mm

MIN.

Fix jointing strip at 200mm centres


Exterior wall sheeting top and bottom

Nogging

Sheet metal flashing

Horizontal cover mould.

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Fig. 14 Horizontal flashing joint Fig. 15 Drip-strip joint Corner Jointing Traditional internal and external corners were jointed with Aluminium extruded angles or covered with quads to internal corners and fibre cement external corner angles.

Fig. 16 Fibre cement corner moulding and extruded Aluminium mouldings Alternatively, the corners may be covered with timber battens or PVC internal and external jointing strips, as shown in Table 10.3.


12m

m

PVC Drip strip

Hardiflex™ Sheet

Internal lining

Fibre cement cover mould

Corner studs

Fibre cement external cladding

Bottom plate Stud housed into plate

DIVISION MOULD

INTERNAL CORNER MOULD

EXTERNAL ANGLE MOULD

ALUMINIUM MOULDINGS


Nail or screw fix to studs and noggings at 200mm centres

PVC Horizontal Flashing mould Noggings



Fig. 17 Timber batten to internal corner Fig. 18 Timber batten to external corner

Accessories

The following products are recommended James Hardie accessories: TABLE 3 SHEET ACCESSORIES

Studs


Flashing (not required where reflective type sarking used)

Sheet

Timber Batten

Timber Battens

Flashing (not required where reflective type sarking used

Sheet


Studs

Hardiplank™ Cladding

HardiPrime™ Weatherboards

Shingled Siding

PrimeLine™ Weather- boards

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CUTTING Hand guillotine Cutting fibre cement sheeting may be carried out using a variety of tools. The most common of these methods is to use the hand guillotine. The guillotine produces a clean, straight edge by cutting along the waste side of the line. The width of the cut is equal to the thickness of the cutting blade, which is approximately 3mm.

Fig. 19 Using the hand guillotine Score and Snap A quicker and more popular method is to score with a tungsten-tipped scoring tool. While holding a straight-edge along the desired cutting line, run the scoring tool along the edge four to five times. Support the scored edge and lift the sheet upwards to snap it off and form a clean break.

Fig. 20 Using the scoring tool

Cut along line with guillotine cutters

Hand Guillotine

Straight Edge

Lift to Snap

Score along straight edge then lift sheet upwards to form a clean break

Tungsten tipped score and snap knife



Circular holes Small rectangular or circular holes may be formed using an electric drill to bore a series of smaller relief holes around the perimeter. This will weaken the sheet in the required shape allowing the waste to be tapped out with a hammer. Regular sized holes may be cut using a purpose made hole-saw tool. Note: Never punch a hole through with a hammer only as this causes the back of the sheet to shatter.

Fig. 21 Forming small holes

Fig. 22 Right and wrong methods of forming holes

Pocket cutting Larger rectangular holes or openings are formed by scoring around the perimeter of the required opening, creating a hole in the centre, running a saw cut from the hole to each corner and then lifting the waste towards the scored edge. Holding a straight-edge along the scored edge will assist a clean snap.

Fig. 23 Pocket cutting larger holes

Holes may be formed by drilling around the perimeter

Support edge of hole to minimise damage then punch through with a hammer

Score between cuts

Saw cut

Lift to snap

Straight edge

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Hand sawing Hand sawing is also an option, however it tends to be labour intensive and causes excessive wear on the hand saw. This type of cutting tends to be restricted to short lengths and relief cuts.

Fig. 24 Various saws used for relief cutting Electric shears A power tool alternative to the hand tools is the electric cutting tool known as the ‘Fibreshear’, which is basically a set of electric cutting shears, similar to those used on metal sheet materials.

Fig. 25 Fibreshear cutting tool Fasteners for fibre cement sheets Nails to timber should be 2.8 x 30mm long with a protective coating such as galvanised. The head of the nail should be driven flush with the face of the sheet.

Fig. 26 Flat head nail Screws to steel framing should be similar to 22mm long Hardidrive™ external grade with self embedding heads.

Fig. 27 Self embedding head scr

KEY HOLE

PAD SAW

HAND SAW



STRIPS and PLANKS Fibre cement weatherboard and plank cladding produced by ‘Hardies’ includes PrimeLine™, HardiPrime™, Shingled siding and HardiPlank™ . They are available primed and non-primed in lengths up to 4200mm and thicknesses ranging from 6mm for shingled siding, 7.5mm for Hardiplank and up to 9mm for the weatherboard range. Internal and External Corners Corner finishing methods are similar to sheet cladding methods with the inclusion of separate preformed metal joiners.

Fig. 28 Internal corner treatment Fig. 29 External corner treatment

Corner Studs


Alcor flashing (not required where reflective type sarking used)

25 x 25 mm Timber Stop

Zincalume Starter Strip

Ant Capping

Corner Studs


Alcor Flashing (not required where reflective type sarking used)

Preformed metal internal corner


Ant Capping

PREFORMED ALUMINIUM CORNER (HARDIPLANK™ CLADDING ONLY)

TIMBER STOP CORNER

Corner Studs


Alcor flashing (Not required where reflective type sarking used)

Aluminium continuous corner fixed to frame at 600mm centres

Zincalume starter strip

Ant capping

ALUMINIUM CONTINUOUS CORNER ALUMINIUM CONTINUOUS CORNER

Corner studs


Alcor flashing (not required where reflective type sarking use)

50 x 25mm Timber Stop


Corner studs



Preformed Metal External Corner


Corner studs



Continuous aluminium corner fixed to frame at 600mm centres


PREFORMED ALUMINIUM CORNER (HARDIPLANK™ CLADDING ONLY)

TIMBER STOP CORNER

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Cutting and Fixing Once the vertical gauge for the boards or planks has been set out and a level starting position established, a template or lap gauge is made from a short, narrow length of timber. The gauge is used to position the next row of cladding to ensure they remain parallel and the amount of exposure is the same for every row. Note: Use of the gauge is more suited to plain splayed boards or parallel thickness planks, which don’t have a locating rebate or check on the bottom edge.

Fig. 30 Using the lap gauge

Where an external timber corner batten is used, the boards or planks should be scribed into position. This is carried out by fitting one square end of the piece to be cut against the internal corner or adjoining board, then using a scribing block pushed hard against the corner batten and marking the outside edge. This allows for any bend or bow in the corner batten, which will show a gap if the cladding is not scribed.

Fig. 31 Using the scribing block

Lap gauge cut to suit the board profile

The gauge will ensure the correct lap is maintained

Scribing block cut to suite the profile of the cladding

Run a pencil line along the outside of the scribing block

Corner batten



Finishing around metal windows and doors The heads of the frames are flashed prior to fixing the cladding. The flashing should extend past the top of the architrave, by approximately 50mm, on the face of the lintel, then be folded across the top of the window frame, bent down over the edge and neatly trimmed after the architrave is fitted. The top of the architrave is sealed to prevent excessive water entering.

Fig. 32 Head detail

The ends of the planks or boards are cut against the outside of the stile leaving a gap of approximately 3mm, which is filled with sealant, to prevent capillary action if water enters behind the architrave. The architraves are fitted with the outside edge being sealed.

Fig. 33 Stile detail

A sill flashing is run down over the face of the cladding before the architrave is fitted. The bottom edge of the architrave is packed out to allow any water that enters to escape.

Fig. 34 Window sill detail

Weatherboard or plank cladding

Window trim fastened to frame and sealed along top

Timber packer to suit

Flashing

Caulking

Header Trimmer

Timber Reveal

Villaboard™ Lining

Stud

Caulking

Window trim fastened to frame and sealed


Sarking

Sill Plate

Caulking

Flashing

Window trim fastened to frame

Packer as required to provide gap for drainage

Sarking


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General fixing to timber Use galvanised fibre cement nails of a suitable gauge and length, refer to accessories Table 10.4, for fixing to timber studs. There are several special fixing accessories available for use with the nails such as metal joint soakers, stud clips, Uniclips, as well as starter strips and corner strips.

Fig. 35 Fixing plain profile boards and planks Fig. 36 Concealed nailing

Fig. 37 Fixing Heritage profile boards Fig. 38 Fixing Summit profile boards



Galvanised fibre cement nails

25m

m m

in la

p 12

mm

min


Concealed nailing for Hardiprime™ classic (shown) or rough-cut weatherboard

25m

m m

in la

p

20m

m m

in


18m

m m

ax

over

lap

40

40

Lap

25m

m

30m

m m

ax.

Primeline™ Summit weatherboard




Jointing planks and boards Where concealed off-stud jointing is required metal soakers are recommended, except for Heritage type boards where Uniclips are suggested.

Fig. 39 Metal soakers for off-stud jointing

On-stud jointing requires a gap of 3mm between the ends of boards to allow for filling with sealant. HardiPlank™ off-stud jointing is carried out using PVC jointing strips.

Fig. 40 On-stud jointing Fig. 41 Jointing HardiPlank™ off-stud

Fit metal soaker over plank end, top and bottom then fasten plank to studs.

Install next plank hard against soaker stops, giving a 3mm gap between plank ends. Apply masking tape both sides of joint. Apply James Hardie Sealant into gap then wipe flush with plank surface, using a damp cloth then remove tape

3mm gap

STEP 1 STEP 2

Stud

Pack out stud with timber off cut for fixing end of plank


Pre-drill & fasten 20mm min from plank ends

Provide 3mm gap, tape both sides with masking tape fill with James Hardie sealant and wipe surface flush with a damp cloth then remove tape

Stud


PVC Jointing Strip

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Accessories The following products are recommended James Hardie accessories: TABLE 4 BOARD AND PLANK ACCESSORIES

INSTALLATION of WEATHERBOARDS and PLANKS

STEP 1 Install sarking over the outside of the frame as required and fit all vertical internal and external corner flashings.

STEP 2 The continuous internal and external corner accessories or battens must be fastened to the frame before the foot mould or Starter strip is fixed.

STEP 3 Using a spirit or water level, establish a level line around the lower perimeter of the frame and fix the Zincalume™ Starter strip.

STEP 4 Start the first plank against the starter strip, flush with the external corner. Fasten the plank to the frame through the strip.

STEP 5 Fit either a metal soaker or jointing strip to the free end of the first plank. Continue fitting the bottom course of planks until the perimeter is complete.

STEP 6 On completion of the first course, use a storey rod or lap gauge to position subsequent courses. The joints at the ends of the planks should be staggered so there are no continuous vertical or near vertical joints.

Hardiplank™ Cladding

HardiPrime™ Weatherboards

Shingled Siding

PrimeLine™ Weather- boards



USES OF SHEET PRODUCTS (past and present)

Fig. 42 Old vertical sheets and battens Fig. 43 Horizontal and vertical weatherboards

Fig. 44 Tudor style sheets and battens Fig. 45 Stucco sheeting

Fig. 46 Modern vertical sheets and battens Fig. 47 Sheets to gambrel end with battens

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USES OF WEATHERBOARD and PLANK PRODUCTS (past and present)

Fig. 48 Old horizontal weatherboards Fig. 49 Old splayed weatherboards

Fig. 50 Old double log cabin Fig. 51 HardiPlank™ extension

Fig. 52 New HardiPlank™ upper end wall Fig. 53 New HardiPlank™ upper side wall



ALTERNATIVE CLADDINGS and MATERIALS There are many alternative cladding finishes for use with timber and steel wall framing. The following details outline past and present types and systems: FIBRE CEMENT MOULDED PANELS Moulded or profiled sheets are available in a number of patterns. Older types of these profiles were made using asbestos fibre for reinforcement, but modern types use cellulose fibre. Most were used for wall claddings but others were mainly used for fences, such as Shadowline and Coverline. Deeper profiled sheets such as Super-six were mainly used for commercial roof coverings and some fences.

Fig. 54 Popular moulded panels ‘TYPE A’ EXTERIOR BONDED PLYWOOD Plywood may be used as an external cladding with either a painted or stained finish. Its properties include dimensional stability, strength and split resistance, but an exterior grade plywood, i.e. ‘Type A’, must be used. A wide range of sheet sizes and sheet thicknesses are available in different timber veneers. The sheets are fixed with corrosion resistant nails. Bond Type A bond (Phenol Formaldehyde) is the same as structural marine grade plywood. It is a durable permanent bond, which will not break down under fully exposed conditions. Face grades ‘A’ grade faces should be specified where a clear finish or high gloss paint finish is required; ‘B’ grade faces should be specified where a normal exterior paint finish is required; Note: Exterior grade plywood usually has a reduced quality ‘C’ or ‘D’ grade back.

Overall width 375

Cover width 355

17.5

LOG CABIN

Overall width 1 145 Cover width 1 065

25 65 65

SHADOW LINE

Overall width 370

Cover width 355

17.5

WEATHERBOARD

Overall width 950 Cover width 915

45 125 16

COVERLINE

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TEMPERED HARDBOARD Tempered hardboard is a manufactured hardwood timber product. Its composition is a selected mixture of natural Australian hardwood timber fibres compressed under great heat and pressure to form a dense, strong board, which is grainless, knotless, defect free and easily worked with general carpenter’s tools. It has good weathering and durability qualities making it suitable for exterior applications. The most commonly used hardboard cladding is in strip or plank form known as ‘Weathertex™’, which has been used since the mid 1960’s and still proves to be a popular cladding. ‘Weathertex™’ is available in four surface styles: • Plain; • Ruff-X; • Stylegrain; and • Ruff-sawn They are produced in lengths of 3660mm x 200 and 300mm widths, by 9.5mm thick. The faces are slightly tapered, when seen in section. The face, ends and edges are coated with a fungal-resisting primer and the back is sealed against moisture penetration. Jointing Internal corners may be butt jointed against a square timber mould or the end of one board is scribed over the other with a small notch taken out of the top corner to allow for lapping.

Fig. 55 Internal corner jointing The length of boards is usually joined using a white - PVC ‘H’-section off-stud joiner. Fig. 56 Off-stud

PVC joiner

Corner Flashing

Scribed boards

Corner flashing

Corner mould

BUTT JOINTED SCRIBED



External corners may be finished against a corner batten or splay angle cut butt jointed and fitted with special pre-formed metal corner pieces. These metal corner pieces are fixed by placing the bottom flange under the planks and pushing them up until they are flush with the lower edge. A nail is then driven through the hole at the top of the corner piece. Each row of planks is fitted with the corner pieces progressively.

Fig. 57 Finishing external corners

Spacing and fixing planks Once the bottom row is levelled and fixed off and the gauge or amount of lap has been calculated, make a simple timber or metal jig or spacer block. The block will allow each row to maintain the same amount of exposed plank by locating the lower edge parallel with the row below. The planks are then fixed into position using galvanised 50 x 2.8mm nails, which have a countersunk head. These nails are usually ordered and supplied with the planks.

Fig. 58 Using the jig or spacer block

Ends of planks splay cut and butt jointed

Single nail fixing

Metal corner pieces

Fixing hole

Aluminium Corner Piece

Planks nailed off to spacer position

Spacer block

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THIN BRICK VENEER Thin biscuits are cut from normal full size bricks to approximately 25mm thick and inserted onto a patent steel backing. The brick biscuits are attached to the steel backing’s by either locking into fingers, which are pressed through the backing panel, or lock onto tongues by using the pre-cut grooves on the top and bottom edges of the biscuits. There are a number of systems available such as the ‘Kwik Brick Rail System™’ and the ‘Steel Backed™’ system. Both systems require the steel backing to be nail or screw fixed to studs or over existing claddings, unless vinyl or aluminium as they do not provide secure fixing. Where a wall has no original cladding, sarking should be fixed to the studs to provide a waterproof base. Once the backing’s are in place and the brick biscuits attached, the joints are filled with a specially formulated mortar applied using a mortar bag, gun or pump. The advantage of this system is that it may be placed over existing weathered or outdated cladding to provide a new, durable, maintenance-free surface or attached to new second-storey walls where full size bricks would be impractical to use. Note: Refer to individual manufacturer’s brochures for more information and detail.

Fig. 59 Finger locking system Fig. 60 Tongue and groove system

Brick biscuits

Fingers

Steel backing

Steel backing

Brick biscuits Short tongue

Long tongue



AERATED CONCRETE PANELS Products such as CSR Hebel’s Powerpanel™ are manufactured from autoclaved, aerated concrete, which creates a strong lightweight cladding panel system. The special concrete mix is basically aerated and then steam cured under high pressure. The panels are 75mm thick and reinforced with four steel bars running vertically, as well as several transverse bars. The panels are flat and straight making them ideally suited to take thin surface finishes with little preparation. The aerated characteristic provides excellent thermal insulation properties and provides a 3-hour fire rating, which exceeds most other external cladding ratings for domestic construction. Note: Refer to CSR Hebel manufacturer’s brochures for more details, fixing and finishing instructions

Fig. 61 Typical Powerpanel™ details

50

min

Top of windows/external doors

Carry coating past eaves level

10mm gap for drainage

Quad

20 Timber 12-11 x 25 mm HEX TYPE 17 or Steel 10-16 x 16 HEX TEKS

Top hat section

14-10 x 65mm HEX TYPE 17

Refer to A.S. 2870 for design

95

D.P.C.

75 5

0 m

in m

in

125

min

G.L.

Power panel

150

ma x

Timber or Steel stud

20mm gap

Max

. spa

cing

to s

uit

reco

mm

enda

tions

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BRICK VENEER CONSTRUCTION Brick veneer construction is widely used in Australia, but is relatively unknown overseas. It is basically a hybrid or mix of cavity wall and timber frame construction. The real frame of the building is the timber frame with a 110mm thick leaf of brick cladding set 40mm, but not less than 25mm, around it to give the appearance of full cavity brick construction. This type of construction was experimented with back as early as 1903 in some country areas and it was not until about 1928 that it became more widely accepted by municipal councils and lending authorities. At the end of the 20th century it is now the most common method of cladding used in domestic construction around Australia. Brick veneer construction members

Fig. 62 Brick veneer details

1 Bottom wall plate 7 Brick air vent 13 Floor joist 2 Vermin-proof wire 8 R.C. strip footing 14 Veneer tie 3 Continuous ant capping 9 Ground level 15 Diagonal brace 4 Damp-proof course 10 DPC level 16 Common stud 5 Attached pier 11 110mm Brick veneer 17 Nogging 6 Wall tie 12 Corner blocking 18 Bearer

LEGEND



Veneer ties These provide a link between the brick veneer and the timber frame. They are bedded a minimum of 50mm into the brickwork every 7th course high (approx. 600mm), tilted up slightly to prevent water travelling across the cavity to the frame, and then nailed into the side or edge of the studs at Max. 600mm centres. There are several types of ties available from twisted flat galvanised metal to heavy gauge galvanised wire ties.

Fig. 63 Typical veneer tie Fig. .64 Fixing various ties Vermin wire Vermin wire is used for suspended timber frame floors and should be 150mm wide galvanised wire mesh with Max. 12mm openings, designed to prevent vermin (rats and mice) from entering the cavity from the sub-floor. The wire is bedded into the brickwork horizontally around the perimeter and fixed to the edge of the bottom wall plate with clouts, or similar, at Max.150mm centres. Rolled paper is laid on top of the wire during construction to make removal of mortar droppings easier

Fig. 65 Placement of ties and vermin wire

Foil 2 No 25 x 3 Galv. clouts

18 SWG galv. steel 1 No 38 x 2.5 galv. clout

25

20

200

150

100

50 Min.

25-80

20

2 No 38 x 3 Galv. clouts

20

20 50 Min.

75-120

Wall stud

Skirting block (skirting over 75mm)

Bottom plate

Floor bearer

Floor joist

Half pier cap soldered at joints to continuous ant capping

Attached pier Approved vent

D.P.C.

Continuous galv. Steel antcapping

12mm Galv. Mesh vermin proofing

Insulation foil

Veneer tie

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Allowance for frame shrinkage The external veneer of brickwork remains stable while the timber frame members, which may not be fully seasoned, tend to shrink in width and thickness causing a slight drop. If members of the timber frame are placed in direct contact with the brick veneer, such as window and door sills or eaves framing, the frame movement may cause cracking or dislodging of the bricks. Therefore, a small clearance allowance is made at these positions of 10 to 12mm for single storeys and up to 20mm for two-storeys.

Fig. 66 Alternative eaves construction showing allowance for clearance

Spanning openings Where the brick veneer spans window and door head openings the brickwork is supported on hot dipped galvanised steel arch bars or lintels. Narrow openings up to 1200mm may be supported on flat bars with each end bearing at least 100mm onto brickwork. Openings greater than 1200mm shall be supported on angles with each end bearing at least 150mm onto brickwork. The centre of the opening should be temporarily supported during construction to prevent deflection. Note: Refer to AS 4100, AS 3700 or BCA96 Housing for further information

Fig. 67 Steel flat bar lintel

Fig. 68 Steel angle lintel Fig. 69 Temporary support during

construction

12mm clearance provided for shrinkage of timber frame

12mm clearance provided for shrinkage of timber frame

100

Min.

100

min

M.S. Flat bar

Temporary prop



Fig. 70

Two

storey brick veneer frame details

Ceiling Trimmer

Hip

Creeper

Fascia

Ceiling joist

Stud

Blocking

Nogging

Skirting

Plate

Plate

Floor joist

Tongue & grooved flooring

Diagonal bracing

40mm cavity

External brickwork

Veneer tie

Vent

Vermin proofing

Damp-proof course

M.S. Rod reinforcement

R.C. Strip footing

110 Brickwork

G.I. Ant cap, D.P.C. under

Bearer

Bottom wall plate

Floor bearer

Isolated brick pier

G.I. Ant Cap

Floor joist

Top wall plate

Window head

Bottom wall plate

Ceiling batten

Solid Blocking

Plate

Deep Floor joist

Top wall plate

Window head

Ceiling batten

Ceiling joist

M.S. Dog

Rafter

Ridge

Hanger

Purlin

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SHEET METAL CLADDING There are a large number of profiles available for wall cladding use produced by BHP such as Panel rib, Custom orb, Mini orb, Trim-wall, Easyclad Hi-Ten, Multiline and Wallclad. They are usually fixed vertically using screws fitted with neoprene washers for weatherproofing.

Fig. 71 Typical panel rib sheeting attached to walls

Finish Most cladding sheets have a Colorbond™ coloured finish or they may be left plain with a Zincalume™ surface. Colorbond™ is a process which coats the Zincalume™ base with a baked epoxy primer, then a baked exterior colour finish. The underside is coated with a grey interior finish to provide all over protection from weather and water vapour.

Fasteners Fasteners may be fixed through the valley or crest of the sheet using one of the following fastener types:

Fig. 72 Recommended fasteners

Stud Nogging

Direction of laying

Outside corner mould

Direction of prevailing winds

4mm Blind rivet or side lap screw

Woodscrew or drive nail for timber or self-tapping screw for steel with ∅16mm metal and neoprene washers



Fixing methods Sheets may have secret or concealed fasteners or be fixed through the surface of the valley or crest of the sheet. Concealed fixing • Attach starting clips along a plumb line to the purlin, girt or row of noggings (see A); • Lock the first sheet into the starting clips and fasten the opposite edge (see B); • Lock the second sheet into the fixed edge of the first sheet and repeat process until the walls

are complete (see C).

Fig. 73 Concealed fixing

Exposed fixing • Attach the first sheet through the last valley on each purlin, girt or row of noggings; • Fit at least 5 fastenings to the valleys of each sheet on each purlin, girt or row of noggings; • Place the next sheet over the end of the first and fix through the crest, at approx. 500mm

centres for the height of the sheet; • Continue until all sheets are fixed.

Fig. 74 Exposed fixing

Fig. 75 Crest fixing detail

Drive screw

Second Cladding Sheet

First Cladding Sheet

Drive screw

First cladding Sheet

Starting Clip

PURLIN OR GIRT PURLIN OR GIRT PURLIN OR GIRT

Trough Fixing Side Lap Stitching

Side Lap Stitching

Anti-capillary air space

Long overlapping leg

6.3mm

20.6mm Approved screw

Washer set

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PREPARING WALLS FOR CLADDING STRAIGHTENING OF STUDS Poor stacking, partial or uneven seasoning may lead to studs bowing, twisting or forming a spring, which is a bend along the edge. These malformed studs may still be used but will require some additional attention before the wall frames are finished and ready to receive linings. Once the wall frames are up and the ceiling frame is complete, the temporary braces are removed from the walls. At this stage it may be necessary to go over the frames to complete the fitting of blocks, loose or missing noggings and to straighten any studs with excessive spring. As previously mentioned in Unit 8, this procedure is especially critical in the wet areas (bathroom, laundry, toilet, kitchen) so that wall tiles may be laid onto a straight surface and to allow kitchen cupboards to be easily fitted to straight walls. It is also important for cladding materials as excessive spring in studs will show up in the line of the exterior surface, especially where narrow weatherboards or planks are used. Straightening long walls

Fig. 76 Positioning the string line

STEP 1 Place a nail at the mid height of both ends of the wall and run a taught string line between the two nails. Place a block, say 20mm thick, under both ends of the string line in front of the nails to lift the line off the face of the wall frame. Note: Short walls may be checked with a straight edge instead.

Spacer block

Taught string line

Spacer block



Fig. 77 Checking studs for spring

Fig. 78 Correcting spring in studs

STEP 2 Using another short block of the same thickness as the end blocks, place it under the line at each stud position. If there is a spring in the stud it will either create a gap between the block and the line (stud is hollow on the outside) or it will not allow the block to fit under the line (stud is rounded to the outside).

STEP 3 If studs require crippling, follow the steps below to correct excessive spring:

1. Make a saw cut in the centre of the hollow edge to a depth of approximately half the stud width:

2. Drive a thin timber wedge into the saw cut while pulling the stud straight. Skew nail through the saw cut and wedge:

3. Nail a timber cleat to the face of the stud over the saw cut and wedge to reinforce the cut stud:

Checking studs for spring using a third spacer block

Make saw-cut half depth

BOWED

Push to straighten

Drive wedge in

STRAIGHTENED

Nail cleat to side

Cut off remainder of wedge

STRENGTHENED

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PREPARING MASONRY WALLS Where external masonry walls are to be covered with a cladding, the wall should be checked for straight, prior to any sheet or board fixing. Where the wall is out of plumb or has high and low sections, timber grounds or metal furring channels are fixed at appropriate centres. The grounds or channels may require some packing to maintain a straight line. This may achieved by using non-compressible materials such as fibre cement strips, strips of Alcore folded to the required thickness, strips of sheet lead, etc. Grounds or channels for vertical sheet cladding should be placed horizontally and spaced at 900mm centres or as per manufacturer’s specification. Grounds or channels for horizontal board and strip cladding should be placed vertically at 600mm centres or as per manufacturer’s specifications. Fixings

Structural adhesive Where light loads are applied to walls, wind loads are low or the cladding material is lightweight, structural adhesives may be used to attach the grounds to masonry. Products similar to Maxbond® or Liquid nails® may be used for this purpose.

Fig. 79 Structural adhesive

Masonry anchors Special masonry fasteners may be used for grounds or channels to support heavier claddings. Screws and plastic plugs may also be used.

Fig. 80 Masonry anchor

Nails Nails driven using an explosive powered tool may be used to fix grounds or channels. Nails with a spiral shank may also be used in conjunction with plastic plugs, known as ‘spaghetti’ , which are driven into pre-bored holes.

Fig. 81 Nail and spaghetti plug.

Structural adhesive

Thicknessed timber ground

Furring channel

Masonry anchor

Packing as required

Packing as required

Spiral shank nail for grip

Thicknessed timber ground

'Spaghetti' plastic plug



WALL CLADDING CALCULATIONS SHEET and STRIP MATERIALS When ‘taking-off’ quantities for wall sheet cladding it is essential that a systematic approach be adopted to avoid missing critical elements. Example 1: Calculate the number of 4.5mm thick fibre cement sheets and timber cover straps for a single wall 6300mm long x 2400mm high. The sheets are 1800mm x 1200mm wide, fixed horizontally staggering the vertical joints by half lapping. Joints are covered with 50 x 19mm DAR straps.

Fig. 82 Single wall to be clad

Fig. 83 Sheets covering wall

STEP 1 Find the area of the wall:

Area = 6.300 x 2.400 = 15.120m²

STEP 2 Find the area of one (1) sheet:

Area = 1.800 x 1.200 = 2.160m²

STEP 3 Divide the area of the wall by the area of one (1) sheet to find the number of sheets required to clad the wall: No. = 15.120 x 2.160 = 7 sheets

450

6300

2400

Sheets joined on studs

End of top row of sheets

Offcut used to complete end of top row of sheets

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∴ allow 7/ 1800 x 1200 x 4.5mm sheets, 50 x 19mm cover straps – 1/ 6.3, 3/ 2.4 Example 2: Calculate the number of 150 x 25 Rusticated weatherboards for a single wall 6300mm long x 2400mm high. The boards are to be random lengths fixed horizontally and finish flush with both ends when: • 10% wastage is allowed for cutting and joining on a stud; • Nominal or sawn size is 150 x 25mm; • Milled size is 140 x 20mm; and • Effective cover is 133mm.

Fig. 84 Single wall to be clad

Fig. 85 Effective cover of a weatherboard

STEP 4 Calculate the number of cover straps required to cover all the joints:

Horizontal = 1/ 6.3

Vertical = 6/ 1.2 or 3/ 2.4

STEP 1 Identify the height of the wall:

Height = 2400mm

STEP 2 Identify the effective cover of one (1) board:

Effective cover = 133mm

150

25

133 140

20

450

6300

2400



∴Total lineal metres of 150 x 25 Rusticated weatherboards = say, 132.0m

Fig. 86 Wall clad with weatherboards

Deductions for openings Where the area of the opening in a wall is less than 1.0m², no deduction will be made. Openings greater than 1.0m² should have sheet and board material deducted, using the same method of calculation for wall coverage. Example 3: If the wall in Example 1 had a window 1200mm high x 1800mm wide, the area of the window opening will be deducted from the total wall area before the total sheets are counted.

STEP 3 Divide the height of the wall by the effective cover of one (1) board to find the number of boards required to cover the height of the wall:

No. = 2400 ÷ 133 = 18.045 say 19 rows

STEP 4 Multiply the number of rows of boards by the length of the wall to calculate the lineal metres of boards required to cover the wall:

Lin.m = 19 x 6.300 = 119.700m

STEP 5 Multiply the lineal metres by itself plus 10% for wastage when cutting and joining:

Total = 119.700 x 1.10 (amount plus 10%) = 131.670m

Area of window = 1.200 x 2.100 = 2.520m²

Deduct window = 15.120 - 2.520 = 12.600m²

∴ Sheets = 12.600 ÷ 2.160 = 5.833 say 6 sheets

Waste ripped off last board

Waste

Staggered butt joins on studs H

eigh

t of w

all

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WORKED EXAMPLE FOR CLADDING QUANTITIES and COSTS The following worked example provides details of how the quantities are arrived at and how the individual materials are presented and costed, based

Calculate the quantity and cost of cladding material and accessories when: The 2400mm high wall frames are to be clad with 4.5mm thick fibre cement sheets fixed horizontally. The horizontal joints are covered with fibre cement ‘C’ moulding and the vertical joints are covered with 50 x 19mm DAR timber cover mould. The external corners are covered with a full height fibre cement 90° angle mould. SPECIFICATION

Fig. 87 Typical plan of a timber framed cottage

Example 1: Sheet Cladding

MATERIAL SIZE COST

Fibre cement cladding 1800 x 1200 x 4.5mm thick sheets $15.00/ sheet

Horizontal ‘C’ mould (FC) 2400 x 50 x 20mm thick $0.60/ m

Vertical 90° corner mould (FC) 2400 x 50 x 50 x 6mm thick $0.80/ m

DAR primed timber cover mould

2400 x 50 x 19mm thick $0.70/ m

DOOR OPENINGS D1 = 2110 x 900mm Window Height (mm) Width (mm)

W1 900 1720

W2, W3 1250 1720

WINDOWS

(1)

(2)

(3)

(4)



Divide each wall by the area of (1) sheet to find the total number of sheets required:

METHOD

Sheets - Take each wall separately, calculate the total surface area, deduct openings, calculate the area of one (1) sheet, divide the wall area by the area of one (1) sheet;

‘C’ mould - Calculate the total perimeter, deduct openings, divide by 2.4m lengths;

90° Corner mould - Count the number of corners, allow one length per corner;

DAR Cover mould - Count the number of vertical sheet joins per wall, allow one 1.2m length per vertical sheet join, add lengths to order 2.4m lengths.

STEP 1 Start with wall (1) and calculate the area of each wall working around the outside in a clockwise direction:

Area wall (1) = 6.000 x 2.400 = 14.400m²

Area wall (2) = 4.800 x 2.400 = 11.520m²

Area wall (3) = 6.000 x 2.400 = 14.400m²

Area wall (4) = 4.800 x 2.400 = 11.520m²

STEP 2 Calculate opening areas for each corresponding wall:

Wall (1) W2 = 1.250 x 1.720 = 2.150m²

Wall (2) W3 = 1.250 x 1.720 = 2.150m²

Wall (3) D 1 = 2.110 x 0.900 = 1.899m²

Wall (4) W1 = 0.900 x 1.720 = 1.548m²

STEP 3 Deduct the openings from the corresponding walls:

Wall (1) = 14.400 - 2.150 = 12.250m²

Wall (2) = 11.520 - 2.150 = 9.370m²

Wall (3) = 14.400 - 1.899 = 12.501m²

Wall (4) = 11.520 - 1.548 = 9.972m²

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∴ Total number of 1800 x 1200 sheets to clad the cottage = 22 sheets

Deduct openings greater than 1.0m:

Divide perimeter by 2.400m lengths to find the number of pieces required: ∴ Total number of ‘C’ mould lengths to cover the horizontal joins = 7/ 2.4m

∴ Total number of 90° corner mould lengths to cover the vertical corners = 4/ 2.4m

STEP 4 Calculate the area of one (1) sheet and divide it into each wall area to find the number of sheets required for the whole cottage. Treating each wall separately allows for easier calculation of accessory mouldings. Area of (1) sheet

= 1.800 x 1.200 = 2.160m²

Wall (1) = 12.250 ÷ 2.160 = 5.671 say 6 sheets

Wall (2) = 9.370 ÷ 2.160 = 4.338 say 5 sheets

Wall (3) = 12.501 ÷ 2.160 = 5.788 say 6 sheets

Wall (4) = 9.972 ÷ 2.160 = 4.616 say 5 sheets

STEP 5 Calculate the number of lengths of ‘C’ mould to cover the horizontal sheet joins:

Perimeter = 6.000 + 4.800 + 6.000 + 4.800 = 21.600m

Openings = 1.720 + 1.720 + 1.720 = 5.160m

Therefore 21.600 – 5.160 = 16.440m

Number of lengths

= 16.440 ÷ 2.400 = 6.850 say 7

STEP 6 Calculate the number of lengths of 90° corner mould to cover the vertical sheet external corners by counting the corners:

Number of corners

= 4



∴ Total number of DAR cover mould lengths to cover the vertical joints = 9/ 2.4m

STEP 7 Calculate the DAR cover moulds required to cover the vertical sheet joins. Take each wall separately allowing 1/ 1.2m length to cover the butt joint between sheets. Allow one less than the number of sheets per wall:

Wall (1) = 6 - 1 = 5/ 1.2

Wall (2) = 5 - 1 = 4/ 1.2

Wall (3) = 6 - 1 = 5/ 1.2

Wall (4) = 5 - 1 = 4/ 1.2

= 18/ 1.2 TOTAL

COST SHEET

ITEM SIZE MATERIAL LINEAL m or No.

TOTAL LINEAL

RATE COST

Cladding

1800 x 1200 x 4.5mm

Fibre cement

22

$15.00

$330.00

‘C’ mould 50 x 20mm Fibre cement 7/ 2.4 16.8 $0.60 $10.08

90° mould 50 x 50 x 6mm Fibre cement 4/ 2.4 9.6 $0.80 $7.68

DAR mould 50 x 19mm Primed timber 9/ 2.4 21.6 $0.70 $15.12

$ 362.88 TOTAL COST

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Calculate the quantity and cost of cladding

material and accessories when: The wall frames have an exposed surface of 2350mm and are to be clad with 25mm thick primed Rusticated timber weatherboards fixed horizontally. The horizontal joints are to be butt jointed and staggered and abut 50 x 25 corner battens at external corners. A total lineal length of boards is to be ordered made up of random length boards. SPECIFICATION

Fig. 88 Typical plan of a timber framed cottage

Example 2: Weatherboard Cladding

MATERIAL SIZE COST Rusticated weather boards

(Cypress pine) 150 x 25mm thick

(133 effective cover)

$4.20 /m

DAR Corner battens

(treated pine) 50 x 25mm thick $1.25 /m

DOOR OPENINGS WINDOWS

Window Height (mm) Width (mm)

W1, W2 1200 1800

W3, W4 1200 1200

W5 2100 1800

D4 = 2110 x 900mm

(1)

(2)

(3)

(4)



METHOD

Weatherboards - Take each wall separately, divide the height of the wall by the effective cover of one (1) board to find the number of rows, multiply the rows by the length of each wall, deduct openings, allow 10% cutting and jointing waste;

Corner battens - Allow one (1) per external corner, equal to the height of the wall.

STEP 1 Divide the height of the wall by the effective cover of each board to calculate the number of rows for each wall:

Number of rows

= 2.350 ÷ 0.133 = 17.669 say 18 rows

STEP 2 Multiply the length of each wall by the number of rows to calculate the total lineal metres: Wall (1) = 10.200 x 18 = 183.600m

Wall (2) = 7.500 x 18 = 135.000m

Wall (3) = 10.200 x 18 = 183.600m

Wall (4) = 7.500 x 18 = 135.000m

TOTAL = 637.200m

STEP 3 Calculate deductions for openings:

W1, W2 = 1.200 ÷ 0.133 = 9.023 say 9 rows

= 1.800 x 9 = 16.200m per window

= 16.2 x 2 = 32.400m

W3, W4 = 1.200 ÷ 0.133 = 9.023 say 9 rows

= 1.200 x 9 = 10.800m per window

= 10.8 x 9 = 21.600m

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∴ Total lineal metres of

weatherboards required to cover the walls = 597.0m

∴ Total number of external corner battens = 4/ 2.4m

W5 = 2.100 ÷ 0.133 = 15.789 say 15 rows

= 1.800 x 15 = 27.000m

D4 = 2.110 ÷ 0.133 = 15.865 say 15 rows

= 0.900 x 15 = 13.500m

TOTAL DEDUCTIONS = 94.500m

STEP 4 Deduct openings from the total wall cladding:

Deductions = 637.200 - 94.500 = 542.700m

STEP 5 Allow 10% waste for cutting and joining. Multiply the total by 1.10, which represents the total plus 10%:

Add waste = 542.700 x 1.10 = 596.970m say 597.0

STEP 6 Calculate quantity of external corner battens, allowing (1) per corner:

No of battens = 4 corners = 4/ 2.4

COST SHEET

ITEM SIZE MATERIAL LINEAL m or No.

TOTAL LINEAL

RATE COST

Weather- Boards

150 x 25mm

Cypress pine

597

$4.20

$2,507.40

Corner battens

50 x 25mm Treated pine 4/ 2.4 9.6 $1.25 $12.00

$ 2,519.40 TOTAL COST



GLOSSARY OF TERMS

Aesthetic - Refers to the pleasing appearance of an object or the finish of a product. Colorbond™ - This is a trade name referring to an applied finish, which involves the

application of colour to metal sheet products, by baking several individual layers, to form the protective finish.

Conite - This is a trade name, mainly used in Victoria, given to a process of cladding finishing. It is basically the same as the tyrolean spatter finish applied over fibre cement sheeting to provide a textured surface finish.

Crippling timber - This is a process, which involves the cutting, wedging or cleating of timber framing to make it straight, where a spring occurs.

Deflection - This is the result of any member placed under load, which has bent. The deflection is the amount the member has bent or bowed from its original straight position.

Hybrid - This is a mixture or combination of two or more parts, which makes a similar product.

Patent - This is a term used to describe a product which has had its design registered with the Patents office. It is the original idea of a person or persons, which cannot be copied without consent.

Permeable - This means any material, which is capable of being penetrated or passed through. Permeable sarking, for example, will allow vapour or moisture to pass through it, so it doesn’t sweat underneath.

Pliable - This is any material, which is easy to bend, is flexible or supple such as thin sheeting material.

PVC - Literally means Polyvinyl chloride, which is a type of plastic available in soft and hard forms used for various applications.

Staggered - This refers to the placement of solid bridging, noggings, trimmers, sheets, etc. by offsetting every piece from the previous one, when placed in a row or above oneanother.

Stucco - Originally it was a type of render finish made of sand, cement and lime applied to the surface of masonry with a swirling textured finish. It is also applied to the stucco-like pressed finish on some fibre cement products used as cladding over timber frames.

Tyrolean - This is a rough plaster coating thrown or shot onto wall surfaces using a spattering gun or ‘Tyrol’ gun.

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FURTHER READING

BHP Building products, Port Kembla, NSW, freecall 1 800 641 417. (for further information) CSR Ltd, Villawood, NSW, call 1300 369 448. (for further information) James Hardie Building products, Rosehill, NSW, freecall helpline 1 800 021 321. (for further information) Simpson, Charles & Barry Hodgson, 1995, Building a house – framing practices, Macmillan Education Australia, South Melbourne. Staines, A., Reprinted 1987, Owner Builders & Renovator, Pinedale Press, Caloundra, Qld. Staines, A., Reprinted 1988, The Australian Owner Builders Manual, Pinedale Press, Caloundra, Qld. Teachers of Building NSW, 1996 Reprinted 1997, 1998, Second Edition 1999, Basic Building and Construction Skills, Addison Wesley Longman Australia Pty Ltd, South Melbourne. Ward-Harvey K., 1984, Fundamental Building Materials, Sakoga Pty Ltd, Mosman NSW.

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