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Era from 1900-1939

Made by:Abhilasha Jaiswal

Anshika Jindal

Garima SharmaMadhurima HazraRaunaq Arora

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INTRODUCTION

1900-1930s marked a great impact on thefashion statement of the west. We saw agreat variation in gowns, hats, skirts,hairstyles, shoes, etc.

1920 was the major period where the fashionindustry saw a drastic change, where womenstarted to wear flappers. Also, women

started to adopt boyish looks. Three new fabrics of fashion that came

available during this time period were silk,cotton handkerchiefs, and spandex stockings

of several colors.

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History of the era

Corsets were in vogue during the1900s that created a downwardpressure on the abdomen makingthe body rigidly straight in front bythrowing forward the bust andthrowing back thehips.

This era was dominated by S-shaped stance.

There was a passion for lace inevery part of the gown.

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Striking colors was accepted by the society withenthusiasm.

The erotic ideal was androgyne. Girls strove to look asmuch like boys as possible.

Hats were the prominent feature of this era.

The skirt, smooth over the hips, flared out towards theground in the shape of bell in the 1900s. Skirts reached theextreme of shortness in the 1920s.

In the early 1930s the emphasis shifted from the legs tothe back.

The chief change in the 1920s was in the width of trousers,the so-called OXFORD BAGS.

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Social, political and economic influences

When the war began, fashion design and export came to astandstill.

Shaping corsets and culture Heightened agitation for womens political, sexual,

economic and social equality.

Class and social status, heightens the stakes for how

fashion canoes take places and take shape. In UK this period is known as Edwardian era.

In France, this era was called as La Belle poque.

In both countries great ostentation and extra valence.

In England, society for court overlapped everything larger

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More money spent on clothes.

The gowns were very costly sometimes as much a 10guineas.

Ups and downs of entente in political circles in Europe.

Period has been defined as 6 last good time of the upperclasses.

Even colors of clothes reflected the sunny optimism ofthose that had money to spend.

Young women of middle classes earned their living asgoverness typists for shop assistance.

Impossible for them to pursue their occupation inelaborate garden party dresses.

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Open motor cars during that time.

War has deading effect on fashion.

In 1918, there was an attempt to introduce a NationalStandard Dress.

When short skirts came into the market, American statestried to impose their own view of morality.

In Utah, a Bill has brought in, providing fine for those whomore on streets, skirts higher than 3 inches above the

ankle.

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Art movements during thisera

European Avant garde style of art

Nazis burnt all the publications related to

degenerate art.Surrealism movement- some of the paintings

are letter ocean and calligrams

Vorticist movementFusion between typographic and colorist art

seems to be complete by pre warriors.

Artists of later period- Cocteau, Picasso andStravinsky.

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Fashion icons and Films

Famous screen icon idols of the 1900-1930 eras of moviesincluded Louise Brooks, Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich,Claudette Colbert, Ginger Rogers, Katharine Hepburn,Rudolph Valentino, Cary Grant and Clark Gable.

The signature fashion and beauty looks of both JoanCrawford and Greta Garbo are credited to MGM's GilbertAdrian, then head of costume at Metro Goldwyn Mayer.

Louise Brooks is one the most famous fashion icons of the20th century and of the 1920s.

Louise Brooks distinctive black helmet like bob cut hairoften worn with bangs or a fringe as we would call thecurtain of hair today was her trademark.

The abdicated King Edward VIII, later Duke of Windsor

revived le beau monde or the refined beautiful world offashionable society, in the 1930s.

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The continental Princess Marina the Duchessof Kent exuded a classy style that was hardto beat.

Princess Marina in her elegant wedding gown,which is so classy in fashion style it couldeasily be worn today.

A complete contrast to Louise Brooks is Greta

Garbo who was one of the most prominentand best loved stars of all the 1920s and1930s icons.

Many a costume history book touts GretaGarbo as an intriguing fashion icon of

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fashion icons

Here is Princess Marina in herelegant wedding gown, whichis so classy in fashion style it

could easily be worn today.

Louise Brooks

In this wedding day image the Duchessof Windsor, Wallis Simpson wears afull length gown in palest blue (said tomatch her eyes) and designed by

Mainbocher.

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EVENING WEAR

The evening gowns of the 1920's were similarin many ways to those worn during the day.

Extremely simple the gowns consisted of astraight long waist chemise with thin shoulderstraps. The neckline was often a deep v-shaped and plunged both in the front and the

back. Hair was usually bobbed and worn witha decorative clip, comb, or barrette. Theensemble was often completed with a long,flowing cape.

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SHOES

Shoes were also an important part of awoman's wardrobe in the 1920's. Due to theever decreasing hem length of the dressesworn during this time, the shoe soon became afocal point in fashion. Dances like theCharleston also drew attention to theimportance of the shoe. Many expensivematerials such as, silk and velvet were used

further embellish the shoe. In the late 1920'sthe Art Deco Movement also brought in theneed for a geometrically styled shoe- animportant 1920's movement.

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THE CLOCHE HAT

With the adoption of the bobbed hair cut,women further embraced their "boyish look"with the cloche hat. Worn closely to the face,the hat wearer was frequently denied aflattering frame of hair. As a consequence,this led to the stronger application of eye andlip make up, in order to give definition to thehat wearer's face. Peering down her nose, was

the only way a woman could see with hercloche hat on. This contributed to the look ofthe hat.

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THE BOB AND THE BRA

Many other styles, influenced and enforced theboyish look that was so prevalent in the 1920's.As previously discussed, many women cut theirhair very short, so it just framed the face. The

result, a deciding masculine look. Womencarried this further, by deliberately flattening theirchests. They often did this with constrictingundergarments, that criss-crossed to repress

their breasts. This contributed to the slim, boyishlook of the 1920's.

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Fashion designers

Charles Dana Gibson created Gibson dress

Paul Poiret

Leon Bakst

Chanel

Lanvin

Edward MolyneuxCharles Creed

Madame Paquin

Worth

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Illustrations

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CONCLUSION

There are many other styles that influenced the fashionideology of that era. The evolution of the bathing suit, the

make up that was worn, and the designers who helped tocreate fashion. The era henceforth saw many changes takingplace starting from the hat, butterfly and bobbles sleeves inwomens wear, hairstyles, different variety of skirts stockingsto the shoes. Therefore, we would like to conclude that the eramade a great remark on the fashion world of the people.

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bibliography

Costumes & fashion by James Laver

Fashion illustrations by Colin Varwes

www.annemace.net/sample_websites/Sutton%20M4%20

www.ws.edu/campbelld/amlit/1910m.html

http://www.annemace.net/sample_websites/Sutton%20M4%20snapshots_fashion/html/1900_39http://www.ws.edu/campbelld/amlit/1910m.htmlhttp://www.ws.edu/campbelld/amlit/1910m.htmlhttp://www.annemace.net/sample_websites/Sutton%20M4%20snapshots_fashion/html/1900_39

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Thank you

http://www.ws.edu/campbelld/amlit/1910m.htmlhttp://www.ws.edu/campbelld/amlit/1910m.html