environment friendly finishes cii prentation

Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 1

DEVELOPMENTS IN ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY FINISHES FOR COTTON

FABRICS AND GARMENTSR.B.Chavan

Dept. of Textile Technology,Indian Institute of Technology,Hauz-Khas, New Delhi 110016


PRESENT CONCEPTPOLLUTERS MUST PAY

• CRADLE TO GRAVE • WOMB TO TOMB• NOT ONLY FINAL PRODUCT BE ECO FRIENDLY• RAW MATERIALS, PRODUCTION PROCESSES,

PACKAGING, ECO FRENDLY EVEN AFTER DIPOSAL

• MEET EMS 14000 AND SAS 1800 STANDARDS• ECO FRIENDLY PRODUCTS INDENTIFIED BY

ECO LABLES❧ GREEN MINDED CONSUMER PREFER ECO

PRODUCTS EVEN AT HIGH COST


COTTON DOMINATES• READILY AVAILABLE• AFFORDABLE PRICE• HYDROPHILIC• COMFORTABLE IN TROPICAL CLIMATE• BEING NATURAL ECO FRIENDLY


CONVENTIONAL COTTON● CONVENTIONAL COTTON IS NOT ECO

FRIENDLY● USE OF FERTILIZERS, PESTICIDES AND

VARIOUS CROPS RELATED CHEMICALS DURING COTTON CULTIVATION.

● PRESENCE OF THESE CHEMICALS AS RESIDUE ON COTTON BOLLS

● WASHED AWAY DURING PREPARATORY PROCESSES

● WATER POLLUTION


ECO FRIENDLY COTTON

• COTTON CULTIVATED WITHOUT USING FERTILIZERS PESTICIDES AND OTHER CHEMICALS (ORGANIC FARMING)

• RESIDUE OF THESE CHEMICALS REMOVED DURING FIRST TWO SEASONS OF CULTIVATION

• COTTON FROM THIRD SEASON ONWARDS IS ECO FRIENDLY

INDENTIFIED BY LOGOS• ORGANIC COTTON• GREEN COTTON• NATURAL COTTON


NATURALLY COLOURED COTTON

• CULTIVATION SINCE ANCIENT TIME• PISTA GREEN, BROWN ARE POPULAR

COLOURS• NOT POPULAR ON COMMERCIAL SCALE• LOW STAPLE LENGTH• INFERIOR STRENGTH• POOR SPINABILITY• REVIVAL OF NATURALLY COLOUR COTTON

CULTIVATION• NO CHEMICAL PROCESSING REQUIRED• ELIMINATE POLLUTION CAUSED DURING

CHEMICAL PROCESSING


ECO FRIENDLY FUNCTIONAL FINISHES

• FINISHING TEATMENTS HELP TO

MAKE CONSUMER SALEABLE

PRODUCT

• VALUE ADDITION

IMPART DESIRABLE PROPERTIES


IMPORTANT FINISHES FOR COTTON

• EASY CARE/DURABLE PRESS/WRINKLE FREE FINISHING

• SOFTENING• ENZYME/BIO FINISHING• WATER PROOF BREATHABLE FINISHING• SOIL RELEASE AND STAIN RELEASE

FINISHES• ANTI MICROBIAL FINISHES• UV PROTECTION• EMERGING FINISHES


EASY CARE/WRINKLE FREE FINISHING

• CREASING/WRINKLE FORMATION DURING USE AND ON WASHING OF COTTON GARMENTS

• AFTER WASH MAINTENANCE EXPENSIVE

• TREATMENT WITH CROSS LINKING AGENT• TRADITIONALLY KNOWN AS RESIN FINSHING• IMPART CREASE RESISTANT PROPERTY• LOSS IN STRENGTH


PROCESS ROUTEFABRIC FINISHING

• PRE CURE• POST CURE

GARMENT FINSIHING● DIP OR TUMBLE PROCESSES


CHEMICALS USEDCROSS LINKING AGENTLOW FORMALDEHYDE DMDHEUEXTRNAL OR BUILT IN CATALYST SYSTEM AND BUFFER

CATALYST• MOST COMMON MgCl2 , CITRIC ACID

WETTING AGENT HIGH DENSITY PE EMULSION• IMPART HAND• IMPROVE TEAR STRENGTH, ABRASION RESISTANCE

AMINO OR REACTIVE SILICONE• IMPART SOFT HAND• IMPROVE WRINKLE RECOVERY

SILICONE ELASTOMER• IMPART SPRINGINESS• IMPROVE STRENGTH

ACRYLATES• IMPROVE SOIL RELEASE


TYPICAL APPLICATION RECIPECROSS LINKING AGENT 40-120 g/l

MgCl2 10-25 g/l

CITRIC ACID 0.3 g/l

SOFTENER (COMBINATION) 40 g/l

WETTING AGENT 1 g/l

pH 4-4.5


QUALITY CONTROLPHYSICAL TESTS● DRY AND WET CRA

● SMOOTH APPEARANCE RATING

● %RESIN ADD-ON

● TENSILE STRENGTH

● ABRASION RESISTANCE

● DIMENSIONAL STABILITY


CHEMICAL TESTCuen TEST (1N CUPRIETHYLENE DIAMINEHYDROXIDE)PULL FIBRES FROM YARN OF THE FINISHEDGARMENT (FROM THE BACKSIDE)· PUT ON MICROSCOPIC SLIDE· PUT 1- 2 DROPS OF Cuen SOLUTION PUT COVER SLIDE· OBSERVE AFTER 15 min UNDER MICROSCOPE· RATING 3- 4 IS ACEPTABLE· RATING < 3 FAILS, LOW CROSSLINKS RATING > 4 FAILS, HEAVY STRENGTH LOSS


SWELLING RATING MEANING

❧ NONE 5 FULLYCROSS LINKED

❧ SLIGHT OR NONE 4 GOOD CROSS LINKED

❧ MODERATE 3 MODERATE CROSS LINKED

❧ MODERATE TO 2 PRTIALLY CROSS HEAVY LINKED

❧ HEAVY, RAPID 1 LOW CROSS LINKED

❧ RAPID AND 0 NO CROSS LINKED DISSOLVES


ECO FRIENDLY CROSS LINKING AGENTS● MOST POPULAR CROSS LINKING AGENTS● LOW FORMALDEHYDE (DMDHEU) OR ETHERIFIED

(DMeDHEU)● EFFICIENT AND COST EFFECTIVE● RELEASE OF FORMALDEHYDE DURING ● DRYING AND CURING, ● GARMENT STORAGE AND USE● WORLD WIDE CONCERN BECAUSE OF ● IMPACT ON HUMAN HEALTH● ENVIRONMENT● KNOWN TO BE CARCINOGENIC AND DERMATITIS

EFFECTS● ACCEPTABLE FORMALDEHYDE LEVEL 20 ppm


POLYCARBOXYLIC ACIDS (PCAs) ● WELCH IN 1998 REPORTED THE USE OF

BTCA FOR CROSS LINKING OF COTTON

● CATALYST SODIUM HYPOPHOSPHITE

● GOOD CRA

● GOOD STRENGTH RETENTION

● DURABLE TO WASHING

● EXCEEDINGLY HIGH COST PREVENTED COMMERCIALIZATION


OTHER CARBOXYLIC ACIDS

● CITRIC ACID

● MALEIC ACID

● SUCCINIC ACID

ORDER OF DURABILITY -

BTCA>CA>MALEIC ACID>SUCCINIC ACID


DEMERITS OF PCA FINISH● PHOSPHATE CATALYSTS NON ECO FRIENDLY

● MOST EFFECTIVE IS SODIUM HYPO PHOSPHITE

● EXPENSIVE

● REDUCING AGENT

● AFFECT SULPHUR AND REACTIVE DYES

● CONSUME LARGE AMOUNT OF OXYGEN FROM WATER

● INFLUENCE AQUATIC LIFE

RECENT ATTEMPTS TO USE TRI SODIUM CITRATE OR COMBINATION OF SODIUM OXALATE AND SODIUM FORMATE

● SAFE TO SULPHUR AND REACTIVE DYES

● SAFE TO AQUATIC LIFE


SUMMARY OF PCA FINISH● HIGH COST

● NON ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY CATALYST

● YELLOWING

● THESE PROBLEMS ARE UNDER INVESTIGATION

● SOME HAVE BEEN SATISFACTORILY SOLVED

● IN NEAR FUTURE PCA WOULD REPLACE CONVENTIONAL DMDHEU BASED CROSS LINKING AGENTS

RECENT APPROACH IS TO USE

● COMBINATION OF HOMO POLYMER OF PMA AND TER POLYMER OF MALEIC ACID, ACRYLIC ACID AND VINYL

ALCOHOL

● FINISH EQUIVALENT TO DMDHEU


SOFTENERSSILICONE SOFTENERS

CLASSIFICATION

❧ NON REACTIVE

❧ REACTIVE

❧ ORGANO FUNCTIONAL

PRESENTLY MOST POPULAR ORGANO

FUNCTIONAL SILICONE


ECO FRIENDLINESS OF SILICONE SOFTENERS

● SILICONE SOFTENERS ARE ECOLOGYCALLY INERT

● NO EFFECT ON AEROBIC OR ANAEROBIC BACTERIA

● DO NOT INHIBIT BIOLOGICAL PROCESS DURING WASTE WATER TREATMENT

● NO ADVERSE EFFET ON SEED GERMINATION OR PLANT SURVIVAL

● DO NOT BIO CONCENTRATE IN AQUATIC LIFE● NO ADVERSE EFFECT ON AQUATIC LIFE AND

ANIMAL LIFE● NO SIGNIFICANT BOD● NO THREAT TO INSECT POPULATION AND BIRDS


WATER RESISTANT BREATHABLE FINISH● IMPERMEABLE TO WATER DROPLET● ALLOW THE ESCAPE OF WATER VAPOUR● POSSIBLE TO ACHIEVE BECAUSE OF SIZE DIFFERENCE● LIQUID WATER MOLECULAR SIZE 100 MICRONS DIAMETER● WATER VAPOUR MOLECULAR SIZE 0.0004 MICRONS● SIZE DIFFERENCE FACTOR 2,50,000● SUCH GARMENTS DESIGNED FOR ● SPORTS WEAR● SKI WEAR● TRACK SUITS● RAIN WEAR● MOUNTENEERING CLOTHING


CLASSIFICATION OF BREATHABLE FABRICS

HIGH DENSITY WOVEN FABRICS● USED AS OUTER COVER GARMENT AS WIND CHEATER

LAMINATED FABRICS● LAMINATION OF MICRO POROUS BREATHABLE BARRIER

FILM LIKE PTFE● SUCH PTFE MEMBRANES ARE USED IN GORETEX TWO AND

THREE LAYER LAMINATES OF POLYESTER FABRIC● CLAIM OF 9 BILLION MICRO PORES PER SQUARE INCH WITH

A MAXIMUM PORE SIZE OF 0.2 MICRON

● COATED FABRICS● PU COATING MOST POPULAR


BIO FINISHING● APPLICATION OF CELLULASE ENZYMES FOR

FINISHING OF CELLULOSIC FABRICS AND

GARMENTS

● CONCEPT DEVELOPED IN 1980’S

● PRESENT MAJOR INDUSTRIAL APPLICATION

● WASH DOWN OR WORN OUT LOOK (STONE

WASH) ON INDIGO DYED DENIM

● PROCESS KNOWN AS BIOSTONING


CELLULASE ENZYME TYPES

1. ACID STABLE (pH 4.5-5.5)2. NEUTRAL (pH 6.5-7)3. ALKALI STABLE (pH 9-10)

TEMPERATURE RANGE 40-60oC


ANTI MICROBIAL FINISH

CLOTHING AND TEXTILE MATERIALS ARE CARRRIERS OF ORGANISMS SUCH AS

● PATHOGENIC BACTERIA● ODOUR GENERATING BACTERIA● FUNGI● GROWING CONCERN ALL OVER THE WORLD ON THE

DANGERS OF MICROBIAL CONTAMINATION● RECENT OUT BREAK OF DISEASES LIKE AIDS, HEPATITIS

B HAVE INCREASED THE AWARENESS OF THESE HEALTH HAZARDS AND NEED FOR PROTECTION

● NECESSARY TO IMPART ANTI MICROBIAL FINISH TO FABRIC OR GARMENT


SURGICAL APPARELS

● A SURGICAL PATIENT IS AT GREAT RISK AS THE

BACTERIAL AND VIRAL DESEASES ARE SPREAD

THROUGH AIR AND BLOOD

● ANTI MICROBIAL FINISHED FABRIC PREVENT THE

GROWTH DISEASE CAUSING MICROBES

● ANTI MICROBIAL TREATMENT TO SURGICAL

APPARELS IS ESSENTIAL FOR THE PROTECTION

OF PATIENT, DOCTOR AND NURSE


UNDER GARMENTS AND BABY CLOTHING

● ANTI MICROBIAL UNDER GARMENTS ARE

USEFUL TO PREVENT SKIN RELATED

DISEASES, URINARY TRACK INFECTION

● SINCE INTERNAL INTAKE OF ANTI BIOTIC

FOR INFANT IS NOT DESIRABLE

PROTECTIVE ACTION MAY BE ACHIEVED

THROUGH ANTI BACTERIAL CLOTHING


FINISHING TECHNIQUESPAD-DRY-CURE

● APPLICATION OF ANTIBACTERIAL AGENT ALONG

WITH CROSS LINKING AGENT SUCH AS

● VARIOUS TRADE PRODUCTS

● CHITOSAN AND CITRIC ACID

● POLY(HEXAMETHYLENE HYDROCHLORIDE) PHMB

● METHANOLIC EXTRACT OF TULSI LEAVES


EMERGING TECHNOLOGIESNEXTEC PROCESS

· PATENTED BY NEXTEC APPLICATIONS Inc., USA· NOVEL PROCESS· INDIVIDUAL FIBRES WITHIN FABRIC ARE ENCAPSULATED OR WRAPPED WITH ULTRA THIN FILM OF POLYMER· CAN BE USED TO IMPART BREATHABLE WATER

RESISTANT FINISH TO FABRIC WITHOUT AFFECTING THE FABRIC HANDLE· ALSO POSSIBLE TO IMPART · WRINKLE RESISTANCE, · SOIL RELEASE, STAIN RESISTANCE, · UV PROTECTION · FLAME RESISTANCE· MICROBIAL BARRIER


NEXTEC PROCESSTHIS UNIQUE FIBRE ENCAPSULATION

PROCESS ACHIEVED USING❧SILICONE BASED POLYMERS❧ POLYURETHANE❧ POLYACRYLIC POLYMERS

THE PROCESS WOULD OPEN UP MANY

OPPORTUNITIES FOR PROVIDING

MULTI FUNCTIONAL FINISHES TO

COTTON FABRICS AND GARMENTS


UV PROTECTIONINCREASED HEALTH PROBLEMS ON

EXPOSURE OF SKIN TO UV RADIATIONS DUE DEPLETION OF OZONE LAYER

· UV PROTECTION CAN BE IMPARTED

BYTREATMENT OF FABRICS OR

GARMENTS WITH SELECTED UV

ABSORBERS


USE OF GENETIC ENGINEERING

BY THE NEXT DECADE GENETIC

MANIPULATION OF COTTON GENE

MAY USHER NEW COTTON VARIETIES

WITH IPROVED PROPERTIES TO

PRODUCE INNOVATIVE EFFECTS

THROUGH FINSHING


CONCLUSIONSDESIRABLE PROPERTIES CAN BE IMPARTED TO COTTON BY APPLICATION OF FUNCTIONAL FINISHES

❧ IMPROVE QUALITY OF COTTON❧ GIVE VALUE ADDITION

MANY INNOVATIVE IDEAS ARE BEING EXPLORED IN THE FIELD OF FUNCTIONAL

FINISHES

IN THE NEXT DECADE QUITE A FEW NEW CONCEPTS MAY BE INTRODUCED FOR IMARTING DESIRABLE PROPERTIES TO COTTON FABRIC AND GARMENTS.

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