easy single can backpacking stove

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http://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-Single-Can-Backpacking-Stove/

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Easy Single-Can Backpacking Stoveby charlie.nourse on November 9, 2010

Table of Contents

Easy Single-Can Backpacking Stove ...............................................................................................

Intro: Easy Single-Can Backpacking Stove .......................................................................................

Step 1: 1. Materials .........................................................................................................

Step 2: 2. Cut the Top Half ...................................................................................................

Step 3: 3. The Bottom Half ...................................................................................................

Step 4: 4. The Inner Wall .....................................................................................................

Step 5: 5. Put it Together .....................................................................................................

Step 6: 6. How to Use Your Stove ..............................................................................................

Related Instructables ........................................................................................................

Comments ................................................................................................................
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Intro: Easy Single-Can Backpacking Stove70$ for a simple stove? That'soutrageous! Well, here is a simple stove design made from only a single can. This stove is ultra-light, has a 0%failurerate in normal toextreme conditions, is dirt cheap, and runs on readilyavailablefuel. Don't empty your wallet for something worse than what you can make at home! Without further adhere is your stove.

Image Notes1. One of many fuel jets.

Step 1:1. MaterialsTo make the stove, you will need a few things.

MATERIALS -Soda can (Doesn'tmatter what brand, as long as it's aluminum.) -Optional: Aluminum tape (Not pictured)TOOLS -Dremel OR X-acto (or similar) -Dremel cutting wheelattachment -Vise -Needlenose pliers -Marker

Image Notes1. Soda can.2. Dremel3. X-acto.4. Needle nose pliers.5. Vise.6. Marker.


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Step 2:2. Cut the Top HalfTo begin, You must start with the top half.PICTURE 1Choose a measurement to be used throughout your build. We used 3.5 cm. Draw a line around your can. This is the cut line.

PICTURE 2Cut along this line as neatly as possible using your Dremel or knife.

PICTURE 3Result.

PICTURE 4Using a knife (a Dremel would be hard to use here), cut out the top of the can around the inside.EDIT: According toSpinWard, you can also use a can-opener to cut it out (Which would be smoother). Thanks!

PICTURE 5End result of entire step 2.

Image Notes1. You can actually choose any measurement you want, but 3.5 cm is the norm...2. Mark measurement with marker all around the can.

Image Notes1. Sorry it's dark... The flash was off2. Your marker line3. Cut like this with a Dremel, otherwise use a knife the same way.


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Image Notes1. What you just cut out2. A little jagged, but it doesn't matter.

Step 3:3. The Bottom HalfNow, you must cut thebottomhalf from the leftover can. For demonstration purposes, I have shown how to cut with an x-acto blade, but a Dremel will also work. Be suto draw a line around the 3.5 cm (or whatever measurement you choose) line.

PICTURE 2Demonstrating how to set up the blade by clamping the blade in the vise.

PICTURE 3Cut around the line you drew by rotating the can around the blade.

PICTURE 4Result of Picture 3.

PICTURE 5Crimp the edge of the can by grabbing the edge of the can with your pliers and twist every 1/2 inch of so.

PICTURE 6Result of entire step 3.

Image Notes1. Blurry, but this is the tip of an x-acto blade with the sharp side facing you.


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Image Notes1. Rotate the can so the blade cuts into the can.

Image Notes1. Crimping process.

Image Notes1. Crimped edge of can.

Step 4:4. The Inner WallThis inner wall is used to separate the fuel jets (where the fuel vaporises and cooks your food) from the inner chamber, where you put in the fuel.

PICTURE 1This is what you are making.

PICTURE 2Measure the same distance from the edge as you did the other parts and cut, as shown in picture 3. We use 3.5 cm.

PICTURE 4Cut picture 4 in astraightline any where on the ring.

PICTURE 5Fit the ring around the inside edge of the top half and mark a spot where the two sides overlap on either side of the r ing, as in picture 6.

PICTURE 7Cuthalfwayup each place where you marked the overlap, and fit them together, like in picture 8.

PICTURE 9Cut three holes on the ring about 120 degrees apart from each other. These allow the fuel to flow to the fuel jets.

PICTURE 10Place the inner wall around the lip on the inside of the top half with the holes facing up.


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Image Notes1. Interlocking slit.2. Double locking slit.3. Three of these allow the fuel to flow from the inner wall to the outer wall (fueljets)


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Image Notes

1. Cut three of these slits 120 degrees apart from each other.

Step 5:5. Put it TogetherTo complete the stove as shown in picture 1, put the bottom half inside of the upside down top half sub-assembly, around the outside of the inner wall. If the fit is notperfect, squeeze it together overnight using the vise. After you take it out, don't forget to poke holes! 18 holes is a good number to start with, but you can poke more oless depending on what results you want.

CONGRATULATIONS! You now have a fully functional, lightweight backpacking stove!Proceedto the next step to find out how to use it.


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Step 6:6. How to Use Your StoveTo use your stove, first fill it with the flammable fuel of your choice. I used 70% Isopropyl alcohol. I fill it about halfway so I don't flood it. Next, Use abarbecue-style ligto light the alcohol. After you light it, it will look more like the last picture, with nothing coming out of the jets. After a few minutes, it will get hot enough to vaporize to fuand look like the first picture.

EDIT: To make a windshield/Pot stand, go to http://zenstoves.net/PotStands.htm .
http://zenstoves.net/PotStands.htm


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Comments

50 comments Add Comment view all 75 commen

Eleniel says: Jan 15, 2011. 5:07 PM REPVery nice! i had a lot of fun making this, the only question i really have is- would the flames be toxic because of the chemicals? would it be safe to actuallycook something over and potentially eat it?

thanks for the guide.

Mower says: Feb 24, 2011. 3:48 PM REPThere are many variations on this type of stove. Search around for "photon stove" and "pop can stove" on google and YouTube. My preferred fuel isdenatured alcohol, found most anywhere that paint is sold.

charlie.nourse says: Jan 30, 2011. 6:49 AM REPNope! Alcohol gives off water vapor when it is burned, so cook away!

KwartzKitten says: Jan 29, 2011. 6:42 PM REPThis may seem like a dumb question, but how do you put it out once it's lit?

charlie.nourse says: Jan 30, 2011. 6:46 AM REPWell, you have some options. You could blow it out if you are trying to conserve fuel, pour water on it, or let it burn out.

KwartzKitten says: Jan 31, 2011. 8:35 AM REPOh, well that's simple enough. Thanks.
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13 says: Nov 18, 2010. 5:19 PM REPJust as a suggestion; it would probably burn hotter with Denatured Alcohol instead of hand sanitizer as it has a higher alcohol content and is made to beused as a fuel.

rich2871 says: Jan 18, 2011. 4:17 AM REPI can say for sure that I used 70% rubbing alcohol in the one I made and used a thermal image camera on it, the camera only goes to 518 and as youcan see in the photo the white hot area is sure to go well about 518F. Oh and the flames are all blue when using 70% denatured alcohol.

First lighting on left, after jets have ignited is the second photo.

If you want to see other fuels in thermal I will be able to when i return from Afghanistan and have access to them.

charlie.nourse says: Jan 30, 2011. 6:49 AM REPThats a cool picture. According to what other people have said, 70% Alcohol is much colder than 90% or Denaturated.

charlie.nourse says: Dec 20, 2010. 7:12 AM REPYeah, this is the only thing I had

TheParadox says: Nov 19, 2010. 12:28 PM REPI just made one. Sadly It the sides don't ever light (the sides). I was using rubbing alcohol as a test. I let it burn until it ran out of fuel even. I tried it threetimes.

trailslover says: Nov 22, 2010. 12:48 PM REPRubbing alcohol (70%) doesn't burn well enough to get this type of stove really cooking. Use the 90 something or better yet, denatured.

rich2871 says: Jan 18, 2011. 4:25 AM REPim using 70% in mine and it works like a charm, takes a minute or two to get the gas going and ignite but once it does it burns for 20+ minutes.Somthing that you may want to make sure is that the seals are good where the metal inner barrier makes contact. try pressing it together more androlling the inner top of the can where you cut out the drinking hole so that it seals the inner wall.

When i get more time I will make an instructable on mine, but I did use this as a guideline.

charlie.nourse says: Nov 23, 2010. 2:13 PM REPI discovered that on my recent backpacking trip when I didn't have anything else :)
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EnjoyLife95 says: Nov 23, 2010. 4:22 PM REPGreat Instructable! I will certainly be using this on camping trips to come!

TheParadox says: Nov 22, 2010. 1:20 PM REPThats why I just used it for a test. :) But the fuel is not vaporizing properly so I will need to make a new one with smaller slits inside like charliesuggested.

charlie.nourse says: Nov 19, 2010. 12:56 PM REPAwesome! Looks great!

TheParadox says: Nov 19, 2010. 1:12 PM REPIt doesn't work though lol.

charlie.nourse says: Nov 19, 2010. 2:08 PM REPTry adjusting the holes you made in the inner wall. if it is too big, then the fuel won't vaporize before more fuel f lows in, essentialy 'flooding' thestove.

TheParadox says: Nov 19, 2010. 3:35 PM REPAre you refering to the 3 square slits?

charlie.nourse says: Nov 21, 2010. 12:05 PM REPYes

cap n crunch says: Jan 15, 2011. 9:54 AM REPNice Ible but im just confused about what this step does

kevholio says: Jan 4, 2011. 5:23 PM REPIf you "score" the top of can with the exacto blade, it makes a smoother cut also. It is a little more t ime consuming, but it works well also. To "score" you juskeep going round and round on it and it slowly cuts in. After you go so far some parts pop through from you keeping pressure on it, just keep going orcarefully use the blade to cut through where you have been scoring it.

vaberon says: Jan 2, 2011. 1:29 PM REP

would cooking oil work? :P probably not...

W trouble says: Nov 21, 2010. 7:33 PM REP...except i dont have a dremel

nelsnils says: Dec 20, 2010. 6:10 PM REPUse an exacto... it says in the parts list

charlie.nourse says: Dec 20, 2010. 7:11 AM REPYou don't need one

blackops4444 says: Dec 3, 2010. 7:58 PM REPWhat is the liquid in the middle...if it is alcohol what kind.Iwanted to know because I am a Boy Scout and they don't allow hard liquor

kage_no_akiri says: Dec 11, 2010. 10:18 PM REPumm.....its methanol. for pack size, get a yellow bottle of HEAT.
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charlie.nourse says: Dec 20, 2010. 7:11 AM REPno, it was actually Isopropyl alcohol in the pictures.

kage_no_akiri says: Dec 20, 2010. 8:54 AM REPoh....well...my apologies and thank you for correcting me. i only said methanol cus its what i use in my alcohol burner.

good health and long life

Sym says: Nov 30, 2010. 7:19 AM REPhttp://thehanddrill.com/halconstove.htm

Just thought I might point out that you dont need a dremel. I made my first single can alcohol stove a few years ago from the page above with just a knife.

Due to the design wind screens are a must when using it for its intended purpose. Even with denatured, it took my stove about 2-3 minutes to pressurizeenough that setting a pot on top of it wouldn't put out the side vents.

charlie.nourse says: Dec 1, 2010. 5:46 PM REPThe dremel was just for demonstration purposes. You could only use scissors, also.

optox says: Nov 30, 2010. 1:03 PM REPI've made a couple of these before. definitely do not need a dremel. my dad is really into backpacking and found this a couple of years ago.tip: add house insulation (the pink stuff ) inside the wall of the stove. it is inflammable and absorbs the alcohol.

charlie.nourse says: Dec 1, 2010. 5:44 PM REP

Yeah, one of my earlier designs had fiberglass init so you did not need to drain the stove every time you pack it up. That would be nice, but any whereyou add the insulation in this design would not work well.

MJFallout says: Nov 25, 2010. 1:35 AM REPI recently learned that i used my stove incorrectly from the very start. Lerning this rendered what said in my previous comment redundant. I deleted i tbecause of that and because of teh shames. I'll start over and adress what i did wrong later.

Great instructable. I build this and found it not difficult at all and, after passing minor obstacles, now works like a charm. I found that for the cutting aboxcutter for the sides and a canopener (simple-almost-brute-force-kinda-mechanism) for the top worked best fo me.I used a Heineken beer can. This can's side wasn't even but had 2 elevated bands around it. Because of this the 2 halfs didn't fit together well in the end,which again led to fuel-gas escaping and igniting on the bottom of the device. I fixed this by making the jet holes a little bigger to lower gas pressure, bytightly wrapping a steel wire sling around the bottom and by bending and hammering said seam into a better shape. worked well after that.What followed were many uses with less than optimal fuel-efficency and unnessecary parts.

What I did not know, and therefore did wrong, was that after the heating-up-phase of the stove you can (and should) put your pot directly onto the devive,and thus dusting the lingering flame in the middle, because the jets alone will burn your fuel the most efficent way. It will also not make any difference in timi learned here http://zenstoves.net/HowToUse.htm (also mentioned on last page of this instructable)

Well then, lucky I know now.

Great instructables no doubt. Thanks for.

charlie.nourse says: Nov 25, 2010. 9:07 AM REPThanks for the feedback! I learned some of this the hard way. After explosions and flare ups this is the final design I came up with.

MJFallout says: Nov 23, 2010. 5:15 P(removed by author or community request)

Broom says: Nov 22, 2010. 10:01 PM REPNext time, take your photos from the window side of the objects, so they won't be in shadow. No flash needed!

charlie.nourse says: Nov 23, 2010. 3:34 AM REPThat would work, except I took these on a desk that was pushed up against a window, but thanks any way!

Missleman101 says: Nov 22, 2010. 4:42 PM REPnicely done, one of the easier guides ive seen, alot easier then the one i saw whachied used muffler tape to attach the whole thing(such a pain, you donteven know).One thing for improvment tho, put some type of grip on the outside in case you would have to pick i t up and go, like in the morning on abackpacking trip and after you made breakfast.13 has a good idea use denaturted alchohal, burns so much hotter, i actually lit my whole driveway on fire cthe muffler ape didnt work and everything leaked,but jw, what mixture did you use and what did you use beside isopropyl alcohol?
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trailslover says: Nov 22, 2010. 12:55 PM REPI have relied on this type of stove for backpacking several days in the Smokies and on the A.T. My design was only slightly different:1. the inner wall was not required2. the holes all around the top are not needed. If the fuel is vaporized properly the crimping around the joint will produce adequate burner f lames.3. Without the inner wall and those extra holes you can simply sit a cooking pot directly on the can. You must use a few holes near the rim to allow air flow.

Boiled many pots of water for food in the wild with this stove. It performs close to the manufactured stoves when using denatured alcohol.

Dren says: Nov 19, 2010. 8:24 AM REPAwesome, took 30min to do.

I've only tested using around 10ml of normal cleaning alcohol(ethanol). I really thought it wouldn't fire for a long time (as it was less than 1/20 of the 3cmstove. But the flame lasted 6 minutes and after ending, the aluminium can got back to 30(celsius) in around 30 or 40 seconds.

jm1820 says: Nov 18, 2010. 5:08 PM REPJust wondering, is there any way of modifying the stove to allow simmering, or very slow cooking ?

x2percentmilk says: Nov 18, 2010. 8:29 PM REPIm sure some sort of modification to limit oxygen would be easy, like a simple flap type valve.

x2percentmilk says: Nov 18, 2010. 8:27 PM REPSuper great, probably lighter and more portable than most you can find, not to mention the price!

Since everyone keeps bringing up the rubbing alcohol fuel issue, you can find 91% isopropyl just as easily.

Thaikarl says: Nov 18, 2010. 3:37 PM REPthree pieces of coat hanger, bent into squared off "U" shapes of equal size, then put together with light/fine wire wrapped around the legs makes a cheap,easy stand.

find a metal cup, or empty tin can that fits over your stove and stand. drop it open side down over the flaming stove to snuff it out. saves fuel. you canmeasure the fuel you put in to be just enough to cook a cup of coffee etc and not waste fuel or have extra left over.

use "HEET" - gas drye r - in the YELLOW bottles - for fuel. cheap, available at auto supply, online, even grocery stores. methyl alchohol. releases only COand water when burned.

keep a small spray bottle full of water to snuff out accidental flaming spills. (voice of experience here... :-D

dukkake says: Nov 18, 2010. 3:22 PM REPNice stove, just another reason why I thought it was so silly that my gf owns a coleman stove haha. People have mentioned monster cans for their diametebut there are also some monster/Jolt cans that have a screw top, totally eliminating the need to cut it out. It should be plenty wide enough to let in sufficientoxygen to burn, though it would further the need for some sort of pot stand.

Aztalr says: Nov 18, 2010. 2:47 PM REPI just made one of these (quick! it only took about a half an hour!) and fired it up. Worked like a charm! But there are a few questions that arose.

The first is how do I cook with it? It's rather small and wouldn't be (isn't) stable enough to set a pan or metal cup atop without worrying about setting theforest ablaze.

The second is, how do I put it out when out in the field? It burns for quite some time and that's great for when one needs to set up camp, but I 'd hate to havto wait until it burns up all the fuel if I only really needed to stop and heat a bit of water for whatever. Here at home I used a metal bowl to smother it. En lieof that, I can't think of anything to use if I so happen to not have such a bowl on a hiking trip (or my cup is otherwise occupied by liquid). BTW, blowing on iis a BAD IDEA. Just saying from experience (lol).

The third is what sorts of fuels this thing would work with in an emergency or survival situation (they do happen! often when it's too wet to build an open fireRubbing alcohol is what I tested i t with, but that substance is more valuable in the field as an antiseptic. Kerosene seems like it may work as well as anyother petroleum based fuel. Do you think it would work with twigs or dried manure? Maybe I should just try it hahahaha.

In any case, thanks for making this instructable! You may save my life someday :D

charlie.nourse says: Nov 18, 2010. 3:06 PM REPThanks! The answers to your questions:

1. It actually is kind of stable when using with small pans, but for pots and larger pans you would need to build a pot stand.http://zenstoves.net/PotStands.htm2. With rubbingalcohol, the flame isn't very intense, so you can normally blow it out. If you cant do that, then just pour some water in it to weaken theflame and then blow it out.3. What Ivesuccessfullytested so far includes:91% Isopropyl Alcohol70% Isopropyl AlcoholDenaturated AlcoholWhite gasPropaneAny other kind of concentrated alcohol would work.I once tried gasoline, but not with this stove. That test blew up.
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14/14

Try out otherfuels and tell me if they work.

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