Caribbean Cuisine p.24       Florida’s Best Breweries p.46  

1 2 . 2 0 1 6

W H Y Y O U S H O U L D

Cruise the

Galapagos!

Take in the Viewaboard

SE V EN SE AS E X P LOR ER

READERS’ CHOICE AWARDS WINNERS!

54READERS’ CHOICE AWARDS WINNERS!

DISPLAY UNTIL 1/10/2017

DECEMBER 2016

6

Porthole ©2016 Porthole Magazine, Inc. ISSN: 1070-9479POSTMASTER: Send address changes to P.O. Box 469066, Escondido, CA 92046.All rights reserved. Reproduction, either in whole or in part, is forbidden without written permission from the publisher. The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safe-keeping or return of unsolicited manuscripts, photography, artwork, or other material. Porthole Cruise Magazine is published six times a year by Porthole Magazine, Inc. It is distributed on a paid basis to subscribers worldwide, including cruisegoers and cruise industry executives. It also is distributed on a controlled-circulation basis. Porthole shall not be held liable for claims made in advertisements. Address for all editorial and advertising correspondence: Porthole Cruise Magazine, 6261 NW 6th Way, Suite 100, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309, USA. Phone: (954) 377-7777. Fax: (954) 377-7000. Email: bpanoff@ppigroup.com. Visit our website: porthole.com. To subscribe: Call toll-free (800) 776-PORT or (760) 291-1550 (International) 6 a.m.-5 p.m., Pacific time; Email us at porthole@pcspublink.com; fax us at (954) 377-7000; or write to Porthole Cruise Magazine, P.O. Box 469066, Escondido, CA 92046-9066, USA. Subscription rates: 1-year subscription (6 issues) USA: $19.95; Canada: US$24.95; all other countries: US$59.95 (first class); 2-year subscription (12 issues) USA: $29.95; Canada: US$39.95; all other countries: US$99.95 (first class). Florida residents, please add 6% sales tax.

For questions about your current subscription, call toll-free (800) 776-PORT or email porthole@pcspublink.com.

PUBLISHER/EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Bill Panoff ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER CREATIVE DIRECTOR Linda Douthat EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Jodi Ornstein MANAGING EDITORS Grant Balfour, Phillip Crandall SENIOR ART DIRECTOR Laura Roche ART DIRECTORS Caroline Geertz, James P. Karpinen PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Maria Baro PRODUCTION MANAGER Tammy Robinson PROOFREADER Sara Linda CREATIVE COORDINATOR Skip Anderson COLUMNISTS Janice Wald Henderson, Johnny Jet CHIEF CONTRIBUTOR Fran Golden CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Evan S. Benn, Bill Kopp, Steve Leland,

Heather Mikesell, Michel and Lisa Verdure, Jennifer Walker

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Alamy, Getty Images, Steve Leland, Will Rawls, Michel Verdure

SENIOR WEB DEVELOPER Nathan Aaron DESIGN DIRECTION Baseline Creative Group

SALES OFFICES CORPORATE HEADQUARTERS PPI Group 6261 NW 6th Way, Suite 100, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309, USA Phone: (954) 377-7777 Fax: (954) 377-7000 EMAIL bpanoff@ppigroup.com

SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT SALES AND MARKETING William P. Jordan III VICE PRESIDENT, MARKETING & BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Sharon Cherry DIRECTOR OF SALES AND DIGITAL MARKETING Brett Grady REGIONAL SALES MANAGERS Richard Collins, Iris Rodriguez

DISTRIBUTION Nationally distributed by

Curtis Circulation Co. Newsstand Consultant: Ron Sklon

PRESIDENT/CEO Bill Panoff CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Audrey Balbiers-Panoff CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Jose I. Martin SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT PUBLISHING Linda Douthat SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT SALES AND MARKETING William P. Jordan III VICE PRESIDENT, MARKETING & BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Sharon Cherry DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL CONTENT & CORPORATE COMMUNICATIONS Jodi Ornstein DIRECTOR OF BROADCAST OPERATIONS Adrian Allen DIRECTOR OF TECHNOLOGY Soren Domlesky EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT TO THE CEO Patti Lankford

PRINTED IN CANADA

Michel Verdure has achieved international

recognition for his marine photography. The ocean and ships have fascinated him

since early childhood. As a professional

photographer and travel writer, he has fulfilled

his passion by focusing on the sea and currently

has more than 240 cruises to his credit.

Heather Mikesell is executive editor of

American Spa magazine and has written for

Elite Traveler, Islands, Luxury Travel Advisor,

Organic Spa, and Travel Agent, among

others. When she’s not enjoying Champagne facials, caviar creams, and other perks of her profession, she’s likely

to be defying State Department warnings in search of adventure.

Bill Kopp is a music journalist

who has interviewed more than 300

notable figures in rock, soul, jazz, blues,

and Americana. In addition to writing for altweeklies and magazines in the United States and

England, he has authored more than 16 album liner note essays, and writes

every business day for blog.musoscribe.com.

Evan S. Benn is editor in chief of

INDULGE, the Miami Herald’s luxury

lifestyle magazine. He previously was food editor at the Herald, and restaurant critic

and beer columnist at the St. Louis Post-

Dispatch. A graduate of Northwestern

University’s Medill School of Journalism, Benn is also author of

Brew in the Lou, a book about beer in St. Louis.

Steve Leland is a former cruise

director who, along with his wife, Cheryl,

has spent the majority of his life in the cruise travel

industry. His insider background offers a unique perspective on cruising with an

emphasis on off-the-grid travel experiences.

Fran Golden is a cruise writer

whose work appears in newspapers and magazines throughout the

United States and internationally. She is a contributor to USA Today Experience Cruise, coauthor of

Frommer’s EasyGuide to River Cruising,

and Porthole’s chief contributor.

Contributors

8

Publisher’s Letter

THE HOLIDAYS ARE UPON US AND IT’S HARD to believe another year is coming to a close. And what a year it’s been! Regent Seven Seas Cruises’ launched its brand-new Seven Seas Explorer, which the line refers to as “the most luxurious ship ever built.” See for yourself the amazing amenities and services that await aboard the ship, which launched in July for a maiden season in the Mediterranean, and is now home in Miami sailing her inaugural Caribbean season.

Some of our lucky writers and photographers got to experience cruises

of a lifetime this year, and, lucky for us, they reported back to share their journeys. For example, take a photographic journey around the Galapagos through stunning photography of the archipelago’s unique islands. Then, it’s a battle of the barges as one writer set sail on two cruises: one through the countryside canals of Champagne, France, and one along Ireland’s River Shannon. See who came out the real winner in this friendly cruise competition.

And speaking of winners, we’ve got 54 of them as we announce this year’s Readers’ Choice Awards! So turn to page 34 to see which of your favorite cruise lines were awarded the best of the best.

There’s so much to discover in this issue of Porthole Cruise Magazine, from what awaits kids and families aboard MSC Cruises to what to do in Budapest, as suggested by a local. Then, belly up to our list of Florida’s best craft breweries that you can visit before, during, or after your cruise from the Sunshine State’s popular ports of call.

We’re looking forward to the new year and can’t wait to share all that 2017 will bring to the wonderful world of cruising. For now, I wish you happy holidays and smooth sailings!

Bill PanoffPublisher/Editor-in-Chief, bpanoff@ppigroup.com

See which of your favorite cruise lines were awarded the best of the best in this year’s Readers’ Choice Awards.

SEE YOU ON SOCIAL!

Facebook.com/PortholeCruise Twitter.com/PortholeCruise Instagram.com/PortholeCruise Pinterest.com/PortholeCruise PortholeCruise.tumblr.com Youtube.com/PortholeCruise Porthole.com/blog

Around the World

13

12.2016

ON THE COVERRegent Seven Seas Cruises/ Seven Seas Explorer This page: Funky Buddha

What’s Inside : : P O R T H O L E / I S S U E 2 0 6 ∂

52

Battle of the BargesCruising the waterways

of Ireland and France.BY S T E V E L E L A N D

62Going, Going, Galapagos!

A photographic journey through this elusive

archipelago.BY M I C H E L A N D L I SA V E R D U R E

46Belly Up

We’re saying cheers to Florida’s local craft breweries.

BY E VA N S. B E N N

74Family Matters

Kids of all kinds will find something to love aboard

MSC Cruises. BY J O D I O R N S T E I N

F E AT U R E S

14

24

12.2016What’s Inside : : P O R T H O L E / I S S U E 2 0 6

A L L E Y E S O N D E C K

40 Grand Entrance Regent’s Seven Seas

Explorer is a ship of superlatives. BY FRAN GOLDEN

C O L U M N S

6 Contributors

8 Publisher’s Letter BY BILL PANOFF

D E PA RT M E N T S

T R E N D I N G N O W p.18–32

18 Travel Gear & Good Stuff What to pack, what to

know, and what to do for your next cruise.

24 Epicurious Savor the island flavor

of Caribbean cuisine. BY JANICE WALD HENDERSON

26 Vitamin Sea Discover the (proven!) health

benefits of cruising. BY HEATHER MIKESELL

30 Cruise Connection What the artists, fans, and

organizers say about music-themed cruises. BY BILL KOPP

34 Readers’ Choice Awards 2016

Announcing this year’s 54 cruise line winners!

T H E I N S I D E R p.82–96

82 Design Time Behind the Remastering

of Queen Mary 2 BY FRAN GOLDEN

84 Like a Local Close the guidebooks

and let a Budapest local lead the way. BY JENNIFER WALKER

88 Cruise Control A day in the life of Andy

Stuart, president and COO of Norwegian Cruise Line.

BY JODI ORNSTEIN

90 Tried and True Travel expert Johnny

Jet answers your most common questions.

92 Suite Land Road trip–worthy hotels

when cruising from South Florida.

96 Last Call SeaDream Yacht Club’s

Top of the Yacht Bar shows off its 360-degree views.

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he prospects of an off-the-wall travel experience while sampling the trappings of the good life, such as gourmet dining with liberal

libations, were all too much to overlook. Who am I to say no? So I decided to book a barge cruise. Better yet, I booked two.

A cruise on the River Shannon in Ireland and another through the countryside canals of Champagne, France, ticked all the travel boxes. Can these vessels — regally named Shannon Princess and French Country Waterways’ Princess — live up to their royal monikers? While Shannon Princess navigates a nautical inroad to Irish sights, spot-lighting folklore and Irish tradition, Princess emphasizes culinary creativity of Michelin-style gastronomy enhanced by the beauty of France’s Champagne region.

We’re going to jump ship, so to speak, and slip into this under-the-radar subculture of cruising that is quietly com-ing of age. Check your thoughts about ocean cruising at the gangway and welcome aboard to ... the battle of the barges!

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Clockwise from upper left: Decantering

Grand Cru aboard French Country

Waterways; Galway, Ireland, along the river by night and

strolling the streets by day; vineyards of

Champagne, France

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T H E S A I L I N G ’ S D I V E R S E G R O U P

S O O N D I S C O V E R E D T H A T

W E A L L C A M E S E E K I N G T H E S A M E T H I N G :

R E F U G E F R O M O U R

E V E R Y D A Y R E A L W O R L D L I V E S .

In Ireland, onshore highlights include castles, distilleries, and quaint walking streets.

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Shannon PrinceSS, deScribed aS a luxury barge hotel, is owned and operated by husband/wife team Ruairi and Olivia Gibbons. Assisted by a well-trained staff of two, they combine warm personalities and every conceivable talent to bestow an unforgettable journey on 10 fortunate guests through the heart of the Emerald Isle.

Like a Noah’s Ark passenger list, the sailing’s diverse group came in pairs, and soon discovered that we all came seeking the same thing: refuge from our everyday real world lives.

Boarding the vessel immediately introduces a welcom-ing, unpretentious salon and dining area. Plush chairs and sofas beckon to weary travel legs and the family-style table sets the scene for engaging dining camaraderie. Following a brief champagne toast from our hosts ensuring a comfort-ing “our home is your home” ambience, we walked 10 steps down a graciously appointed hallway to our awaiting suite.

Expectations had been tempered to anticipate basic accommodations, but surprisingly the king-size bed and overall room design left Irish eyes smiling. A massive double window skimming the surface of the water would serve as the 3-D movie screen to the transitional Irish coun-tryside, and an exceptionally modern en suite bathroom dispelled any trace of skepticism.

Days begin with a dazzling array of fresh breakfast options followed by brief river navigation and reconnaissance explo-rations into quaint villages, historic castles, and scenic walks. In between stops, Shannon Princess modestly glides along the River Shannon, enveloping your nautical home with panoramic views of nature, rolling hills, and wildlife reserves.

Venturing off the vessel offers opportunities to expe-rience Irish traditions in handcrafts and tranquil village lifestyles. The standard itinerary includes guided visits to an eclectic assortment of castles, historic attractions, pubs, and restaurants, plus a guided tour of the famed Kilbeggan Distillery, the oldest licensed distillery in the world still in operation. In festive and perky Galway, guests are treated to an onshore lunch at an authentic Guinness & Oyster bar with ample free time for shopping and exploration.

Back on board, the spotlights of evening entertainment shine on co-owner Olivia’s starring performance as the ves-sel’s master chef. Her extensive experience and training from the acclaimed Ballymaloe Cookery School distinguishes her

as the creative genius behind the impressive menus, both in tantalizing tastes and artfully chic presentations. Varied wine pairings complement the intimate dining experience, rendering cordial conversations. Pre- and post-dinner hours allow for complete immersion into a peaceful state of mind, thanks to a glass of Irish tradition the likes of Guinness, Bai-leys, Jameson, Bushmills, etc. (You get the idea.)

Although the cruise itself focuses on the heartland of Ireland, it would be remiss to not take advantage of pre- or post-cruise options. The luck of the Irish afforded us two days in Belfast and Northern Ireland prior to joining the vessel. Bonus days like these provide the opportunity to explore staples such as Dunluce Castle, the Giant’s Causeway, and a heart-thumping adrenaline rush at the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge. Following the cruise, a three-day self-drive sightseeing spree exploring Dublin, Cork, Waterford, and the visually captivating sights and villages of the Wild Atlantic Way proved to be the icing on the cake.

Shannon Princess is a perfect way to explore the River Shannon, a river of natural beauty, unspoiled landscapes, wild fowl reserves, history, antiquity, and folklore.

–› Shannon Princess sails 7-day/6-night itineraries mid-April through mid-October with a maximum capacity of 10 guests. See ShannonPrincess.com for more details.

The Emerald Isle

Take the time to explore some of Ireland’s scenic, craggy coastline.

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French country WaterWays’ Princess, originally custom built for shipping magnate Daniel Ludwig as a private barge, is rightfully designated as a luxury boutique hotel barge. Guests are met in the heart of Paris and transferred by way of a one-hour drive to the awaiting vessel in Château-Thierry. An attentive crew of five collaborates to ensure exceptional service for a maximum of eight guests for a cruise through the inspiring Champagne region of France. Four exquisite, unusually large and well-appointed suites serve as accommodations for a six-night escape from everyday life.

This is authentic France; no hordes of tourists, no queues, no souvenir shops. Immediate impressions establish a feel-ing of entitlement, negating any hint of a mass-market prod-uct. Conversely, this is a carefully scripted, personalized travel experience complemented by an intoxicating mix of exceptional cuisine and classic French wine and champagne. (More on the intoxicating reference later.)

The atmosphere aboard the vessel exudes a luxury home vibe while simultaneously carving through the Marne River and narrow canals of the French countryside. Mornings be-gin with locally sourced breakfast displays of fruits, à la cart selections, and freshly baked pastries to die for. As a general rule, the privately escorted excursions begin shortly after breakfast via the boat’s private Mercedes van and are per-sonally escorted by the captain.

Each night before dinner, the following day’s itinerary is vividly explained by the hosting captain, who, besides navigational duties, assumes a cruise director role as well. The welcoming dining room plays host to resplendent dinner menus and presentations of carefully selected wine pairings. Evening dinners commence with locally sourced champagnes and hors d’oeuvres, followed by dissertations on the wines and eventually the main-event plates of passion. The show is far from over as three different cheeses are in-troduced each night and, for an encore, ambitiously created desserts take center stage.

Midway through the cruise, guests are treated to a night out dining extravaganza at the prestigious Michelin-rated restaurant Les Crayères. A superlative-laced evaluation of this bonus evening parallels the exceptional quality and presentation of the onboard meals.

Destinations include the remote WWI memorial and American cemetery at Belleau Wood, a sobering yet some-how inspiring, patriotic experience. Champagne country villages, chateaus, and the impressive cathedral at Reims round out an exclusive slate of sojourns.

It’s the private visits to the boutique Champagne house of Guy Charbaut and world-famous Veuve Clicquot that brings us back to the aforementioned intoxicating mix. Spontaneity asserted its power over common sense, and opting for Champagne tasting at 11 in the morning can instill some rather dim recollections. However, I can attest that this nectar of France is not your run-of-the-mill bubbly. This is Premier Cru, upper-crust, top-shelf, direct-from-the-source Champagne.

Canal travel captures the unique experience of the vessel’s frequent lock transits, providing guests with the option of disembarking and enjoying countryside walks and rejoining the vessel at the next lock. Remaining on board during the operation is no less enjoyable, witnessing the procedure from the outdoor, canopied sundeck. Bicycles are provided as an alternative for rural escapades along less-traveled, yet well-maintained pathways.

With all cruises originating from Paris, it is convenienwt to allow additional days either pre- or post-cruise, to explore the sights of the City of Lights.

–› French Country Waterways operates five barges on a variety of itineraries throughout France. For more information visit fcwl.com.

TheCanals of Champagne

Indulge in fine dining on board and explore museums, vineyards, and Champagne houses on shore.

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A L T H O U G H B A R G E S D O N O T S A I L

A G R E A T D I S T A N C E , I T I S T H E E X T R A M I L E

T H A T T H E C R E W C O V E R

I N S E R V I N G T H E I R P A M P E R E D G U E S T S

T H A T S T A N D S O U T .

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To be clear, These barges are differenT. Much like the proverbial comparison of apples to oranges, or perhaps even more apropos, Irish whiskey to French Champagne, both are decidedly distinct and extremely indulgent. Sev-en days on board in a state of relaxation with new friends encourages an evasive opportunity for peaceful reflection.

We all seek some level of exclusivity in our lives at one time or another, and with barge cruising, guests are served a heaping plate full. Step on board and immediately enjoy a subtle sense of personalized comfort, a far cry from the mild disorientation that embarking a megaship can bring. Imagine never getting lost in a labyrinth of hallways. When was the last time you knew every guest on board?

Meal times navigate a blurred line between dining as a paying guest and dining with newfound friends. Excur-sions become personal experiences, and the cruise remem-bered as a once-in-a-lifetime event. It is not a cornucopia of attractions, activities, and amenities that make up the barg-ing experience, but rather the lack of gimmickry and the noticeable absence of distractions of cruising in the fast lane.

It should be pointed out that although barges do not sail a great distance, it is the extra mile that the crew cover in serving their pampered guests that stands out.

So then, how can we adequately characterize barge cruising? To describe it as niche cruising is a gross under-statement. Boutique travel is too ambiguous. Unique is too obvious. Barge cruising is, quite simply, an opportunity to succumb to a personalized cocoon of pampering.

In summary: The winner of the Battle of the Barges is ... (insert extended drum roll here) ... you! •

And the winner is ...

Extra days on shore might include the

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