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SPOTLIGHT

WHAT’S NEWFOR 2016 Discover the lastest options

DREAM ESCAPES

THE BIG DEBATEhot spots hot spots Travel inspiration

Greek IslesCaribbean

Beach clubs

Flotilla vs charter

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EDITORIALEditor Georgie Corlett-Pitt

Deputy Editor Toby HeppellArt Editors Pete Smith, Claire Wood

Senior Sub Editor Henry GilesContributors Helen Fretter, Sarah Norbury

Holidayhot spots

Digital supplementyachtsandyachting.co.uk

SPOTLIGHT

WHAT’S NEWFOR 2016 Discover the lastest options

DREAM ESCAPES

THE BIG DEBATEhot spots hot spots Travel inspiration

Greek IslesCaribbean

Beach clubs

Flotilla vs charter

YY_Travel_2016_001_Cover.indd 1 16/02/2016 12:25

Cover Images (l-r) Neilson, Paul Wyeth/Antigua Sailing Week, Sunsail

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Summer dreaming

If you are dreaming of the perfect summer break, then look no further. Our special guide is packed with inspiration and advice on the latest o�erings in the sailing holiday market, together with our picks of the two most popular charter areas – Greece and the Caribbean – and a special feature packed with all you need to know about dinghy beach club holidays. From family friendly

packages to bucket-list regattas, �otillas to charters, classic destinations to exciting new hot spots - there’s something for everyone. If it’s sunshine, warm water and good breezes you are a�er, we have all you need to know to help you �nd your ideal sailing getaway this summer. Don’t forget to send us a post card... Georgie Corlett-Pitt, Editor

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CARIBBEAN HOT SPOTSSARAH NORBURY picks six top Caribbean sailing experiences for racers, newbie cruisers and seasoned voyagers alike

Imagine broad reaching in the warm trade winds on a deep-blue sea, steering towards a palm tree on a white, sandy desert island... Caribbean sailing really does live

up to the hype. You’re likely to see dolphins, turtles, pelicans, humming birds and hibiscus flowers, drink rum punch or Red Stripe to the sound of reggae, and feast on papayas, mangoes, lobsters and flying fish. On a Caribbean charter holiday you can be as away from it all as Robinson Crusoe, or join the crowds in famous celebrity haunts.

TOP TIP

There are so many fantastic islands and events that choosing just six is almost impossible. To broaden your search, boat shows are great opportunities to chat to charter company staff, many of whom have first-hand knowledge of the islands and routes.

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FUN IN THE SUN

With some fabulous new options for summer 2016, whether you choose a dinghy beach club or charter

a yacht for island hopping, there is more choice than ever. From foiling to whale shark watching, the

world really is your oyster, says SARAH NORBURY

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Follow us on Twitter: @YandYMagazineSee us on Facebook.com/sailingmagazine

�nd your ideal sailing getaway this summer. Don’t forget to send us a post card...

4 What’s new for 2016Discover the very latest beach club and charter options

10 Caribbean hot spotsRacing or cruising - we’ve all you need to know

18 Greek odysseyWhich Greek Island will you choose?

24 Beach club myth bustersFrom beginners’ courses to expert race tuition

28 Flotilla vs charterWhich option wins your vote in the big debate?

3Travel 2016 Yachts & Yachting

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FUN IN THE SUN

With some fabulous new options for summer 2016, whether you choose a dinghy beach club or charter

a yacht for island hopping, there is more choice than ever. From foiling to whale shark watching, the

world really is your oyster, says SARAH NORBURY


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AboveDropping anchor in a quiet bay has a timeless appeal

Above, rightPro-Vela is expanding its foiling options

What could be more absorbing than sailing a dinghy from dawn till dusk on

blue water with guaranteed breeze, or navigating your own yacht from island to island indulging in secluded beaches and tucked-away tavernas?

The options used to be fairly standard but, within the last few years, the holiday companies have raised their game to offer ever more specialised boats and experiences. If you want to try cutting-edge foiling, stand-up paddleboarding, wildlife watching or superyacht-style luxury, you’ll find it in the new offerings for 2016.

FOILING FOR ALL Surely the wettest any sailor is likely to get is when learning to launch, sail and recover a foiling Moth. On a holiday with Pro-Vela these rite of passage dunkings can at least be warm, as the company’s base in the Mar Menor is on a mini inland sea in southern Spain. Clients include people thinking of buying their first Moth as well as one-time adrenalin seekers looking to tick foiling off their bucket list. Heading up their hall of fame is Sir Ben Ainslie, who foiled for the very first time with Pro-Vela.

‘Live coaching’ is how best to describe the way they teach Moth skills, with the instructor in close pursuit in a RIB talking to the sailor via a radio helmet.

While Moth sailing is Pro-Vela’s speciality, there’s also a fleet of Lasers, Laser Radials, Laser Bahias, RS Qubas and, very excitingly, a Solent Whisper, set to arrive in time for the 2016 season. As hardcore holiday sailing goes, it would be hard to beat the Solent Whisper, the 5.9m foiling cat that’s been clocked at over 25 knots yet claims to

TRAVEL WHAT’S NEW FOR 2016

be relatively stable and easy to sail. Pro-Vela takes a ‘design your own

holiday’ approach: rock up at the Mar Menor, stay in a nearby hotel and book dinghy time by the hour or day, while non-sailing partners or family do their own thing.

Or how about trying a foiling Laser? There will be two of these mind-boggling versions of the ever-popular singlehander available at Wildwind for the 2016 season, on the waters of Vassiliki Bay, Greece, where afternoon blasting breezes are practically guaranteed.

Known for its laid-back beach ambience combined with serious sailing for those who want it, the Wildwind beach club has big fleets of Lasers and high performance multihulls. In May 2016 the centre will be running two intensive catamaran and Laser training weeks for those with at least a year’s racing experience

in groups of a maximum of 10 sailors – a great way to hone your racing skills in time for summer.

Foiling and intensive race training isn’t everyone’s idea of a holiday, and if you’re looking to chill out with a cool drink as much as taking a spin round the buoys, then the family friendly dinghy beach clubs run by the likes of Neilson, Ocean Elements and Seafarer are offering their usual mix of sailing and relaxation in 2016. With plenty on offer for all ages, abilities and budgets, they remain as popular as ever.

NEW MOVES IN YACHTING The main innovations are coming from the yacht charter companies, many of which are going the extra mile to entice new interest. It’s often said that dinghy racers make the best yacht skippers and crew – anyone who knows how to sail a small boat has a head start when they step aboard a bigger one – but naturally there are different skills and elements of knowledge it’s advisable to aquire before casting off completely under your own steam. Increasingly, you need to produce qualifications before you can charter a yacht for a sunshine sailing holiday, and companies are finding that although many of their would-be clients are experienced sailors, they don’t have the paperwork to prove it.

What’s needed as a minimum is either the RYA Dayskipper or the more widely-accepted International Certificate of Competence (ICC), specially designed as an internationally recognised qualification for holidaymakers and voyagers.

The traditional way to gain the essential yachting skills is a few days with a sailing school on the Solent or your nearest piece of coastline, manoeuvring under engine in and out

BelowLaser clinics run by Wildwind - foiling Lasers will soon be on offer too

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of marinas, dropping anchor, reefing sails, tying knots and learning the basics of navigation and pilotage.

A newer alternative is to learn as you go while you’re on holiday in the sun. With an instructor on board to show you the ropes you can enjoy a yachting holiday while gaining yourself an ICC certificate at the end of the week that entitles you to charter your own boat next time.

Neilson’s approach to turning newbies into qualified yachties is a new Skippered Flotilla offering on which you cruise the blue waters of Greece or Turkey with an instructor on board during the day. (At night he or she gives you some space by decamping to the flotilla’s lead boat to sleep.) Both the ICC as well as RYA Dayskipper certificates are available, depending on your existing skill level and the intensity of tuition you’re after.

A major advantage identified by Neilson is that on their flotilla not just you but your partner or family or group and friends can learn and get qualified too. This could help eliminate the problems often encountered later by newbie skippers who have to show novice crew the ropes at the same time as navigating out of one harbour and into the next; if your crew knows what they’re doing it takes a whole lot of stress off the skipper. Children are encouraged to take a full part in the learning but are not eligible for a certificate if they are under 16.

Sticking with roughly the same theme, there are a number of other companies offering alternative destinations and slightly different packages. Sunsail is launching two new holidays in beautiful Croatia: Flotilla Zero and Flotilla Hero. On Flotilla Zero complete beginners can end the week with an RYA Start Yachting certificate, while Flotilla Hero

is based on the RYA Essential Navigation and Seamanship and ICC courses.

GET CLOSER TO NATURE Wonderful wildlife is often an unexpected bonus on a sailing holiday. It’s not unusual to be sipping a rum punch at anchor off a white sandy beach in the Caribbean as dolphins lazily circle your boat, and if you charter with The Moorings you could have the opportunity to spot some rare birds in the Seychelles, such as the black parrot. Or, head inland and meet one of the world’s largest tortoises, the Aldabra.

In 2016 there’s a new experience on offer for nature-lovers following the whale shark migration in Belize. Run by Sunsail from its base in Placencia,

AboveBeautiful Belize where you can spot whale sharks

BelowLearning big boats skills as you go; Beach club family fun

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two special flotillas in April and May offer the chance to follow the annual migration of whale sharks, the biggest fish in the ocean. The expeditions are timed to coincide with the full moon, which is the optimum period in which to see these majestic creatures on their journey to Belize’s Gladden Spit.

Other activities on the trip include diving and snorkelling the unspoilt reefs of the Cays of Belize with a pro dive master and learning about the whale sharks and marine life of the region from Dr Demian Chapman, shark expert and lead scientist of the Global FinPrint Project.

“There is no better way to appreciate and protect the environment than by facilitating this unique and exciting flotilla for our customers while helping progress the research of the Global FinPrint,” says Scott Farquharson, Sunsail’s general manager.

TWISTS ON TRADITIONFor a sailing holiday with a twist, try the ‘foodie and cultural’ cruise offered by Essential Sailing. You can book either a cabin on its Beneteau Oceanis 50-footer or charter the whole boat, complete with skipper. Plying the French Riviera and Italian coasts, the boat sleeps up to six guests. The sailing part of the experience is in the mornings, stopping in the afternoons for swimming, beach visits and as many or few cultural excursions as you like, then ending the day with a gourmet dinner aboard and relaxing under the stars, or for party animals, casinos and nightclubs.

Novices can learn to sail as you go with the Essential Start to Yachting short course, but Y&Y readers who already know the ropes might consider this superyacht-style holiday simply as an alternative to a special luxury hotel stay.

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Some people charter a boat in the same location every year, and why not? It’s hard to tire of the Greek islands’ beautiful beaches, buzzy bars and laid-back tavernas, or the baking sun and balmy breezes of the West Indies. But to keep the attention of sailors who constantly seek something new, the charter companies never stop searching for new routes or new holiday packages to tempt them.

Dubrovnik and Palma de Mallorca are new locations for flotillas sold through Nautilus Yachting (operated by Seafarer), both exciting cities in which to start and end a week of relaxing and sociable sailing. If you want to stay for a second week and go off on your own to discover the Balearic or Dalmatian Islands, the Nautilus lead crew will advise you on the best places to anchor and explore.

The company that claims to have brought more people into boating than any other, Sailing Holidays, was famous for offering not just shiny new French and German cruising boats, but an ageing fleet of Jaguars. For every client that found these compact cruisers too small and superannuated, others loved them for their cosiness. But gradually the ‘Jags’ have been sold, (mainly to people who’ll keep them in the Ionian Sea, where Sailing Holidays is based), and

in 2016, after 40 seasons, all the Jaguars will be gone. Instead, there’s a new fleet of Beneteau 35s, 38s and 45s, and still including the smaller boats that Sailing Holidays have always offered but in the more modern form of Beneteau 311s.

For dinghy sailors making a first step into yachts, the Beneteau 311 is ideal as it has a tiller and slab reefing, both more familiar than the wheel steering and in-mast reefing typical on bigger charter boats.

POP-UPS AND NEW TRENDSWith their sheltered bays and generally light breezes, the Ionian islands are a brilliant place for stand-up paddleboarding. Sailing Holidays trialled two-up SUPs on their charter boats last year and found them so popular that they have ordered lots more for 2016.

With pop up restaurants and shops becoming ubiquitous at home, it was only a matter of time before the concept of a pop up flotilla, err, popped up! After a trial run last year, Sailing Holidays have more planned for 2016. We’re told where they’ll pop up in the Croatian cities of Split and Dubrovnik – but not when; keep your eyes on the Sailing Holidays website.

Flotillas have rightfully won a reputation for being family friendly

WHAT’S NEW FOR 2016 TRAVEL

and a fantastic way to introduce children to the joys of sailing. But for those who prefer a holiday with just adults as company at the evening get-togethers, Sunsail is launching Just for Adults weeks in June and July 2016 in the Ionian Islands.

BEST OF ALL WORLDS There have been crossover options between dinghy and yachting holidays for years, with companies such as Seafarer and Neilson running beach clubs as well as fleets of yachts, and tempting holiday makers with a week at each.

Ocean Elements is the latest operator to join this party. This relatively new company is already gaining loyal customers who return again and again to its Greek dinghy and windsurfing bases. Now, building on the stay and sail concept that was introduced on trial last summer, in 2016 Ocean Elements will be running flotillas starting from Levkas Town and exploring the Ionian Islands. The company’s Vassiliki beach club is only a few miles away, which would make a combined dinghy and yachting holiday an easy option. The package includes free access to kids clubs during your stay at the beach club, making this an appealing, family friendly offering.

Above leftLeisurely sailing in the sun

Above right, from topDubrovnik, Croatia is gaining popularity; A swimming turtle

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CARIBBEAN HOT SPOTSSARAH NORBURY picks six top Caribbean sailing experiences for racers, newbie cruisers and seasoned voyagers alike

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Imagine broad reaching in the warm trade winds on a deep-blue sea, steering towards a palm tree on a white, sandy desert island... Caribbean sailing really does live

up to the hype. You’re likely to see dolphins, turtles, pelicans, humming birds and hibiscus flowers, drink rum punch or Red Stripe to the sound of reggae, and feast on papayas, mangoes, lobsters and flying fish. On a Caribbean charter holiday you can be as away from it all as Robinson Crusoe, or join the crowds in famous celebrity haunts.

TOP TIP

There are so many fantastic islands and events that choosing just six is almost impossible. To broaden your search, boat shows are great opportunities to chat to charter company staff, many of whom have first-hand knowledge of the islands and routes.

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1

The ultimate Caribbean regattaAntigua Sailing Week

The number one regatta on many sailors’ bucket lists, Antigua Sailing Week has everything a race crew could dream of. Clear a week in your diary next April and you could be there too, sailing in hot sunshine and strong breeze on big white-capped waves. Yachting glitterati and ordinary club sailors – a high proportion from Britain – mix and chat at the famous après-race parties, all held in the balmy open air, mostly with great music, a beer tent and a barbecue.

It’s far from exclusive and anyone can enter. At 2015’s Sailing Week there were 121 boats and over 1,000 sailors. I met Michael Wilson’s crew from the Isle of Man who’d chartered the smallest boat in the regatta, a 1720. “We’re having a great time,” they said, “the racing is fantastic, and Antigua Yacht Club is so friendly and laid back.”

Their boat was one of several chartered by Antigua’s National Sailing Academy. “It’s an economical way to do Sailing Week,” said Michael, “we’re hoping more people will race 1720s next year.”

There are lots of opportunities for individuals to find a place on a boat,

both free and paid for – check out the crew forum on the regatta website. Many people charter standard bareboats from companies such as Sunsail, sleeping aboard to keep the cost down. Crews are incredibly varied, from groups of sailing club friends, to families and all-female teams; last year there was even a boat full of airline pilots!

A brilliant way to experience Antigua Sailing Week is to buy an individual berth aboard one of the big racing yachts run by companies such as Sailing Logic and Performance Yacht Charter. The latter offers berths on several boats including the Swan 51 Northern Child; I chatted to the crew after racing in Antigua, all looking tanned and fit after an exciting day on the water, and buzzing with enthusiasm and camaraderie. Some had taken the week off work, others were on gap years or sabbaticals. All were full of praise for the professional skipper and mate who got the team working like a well-oiled machine while having the time of their lives.

Or how about persuading your club to enter a team in the Royal Southern

Inter Yacht Club Challenge, perhaps hiring something racier than a normal bareboat? Last year’s challenge was won by Scarlet Oyster chartered by Guernsey Yacht Club, and the Royal Southern YC itself came fourth in a Beneteau 47.7 chartered from Global Yacht Racing.

Hurry and get organised if you want to go; lots of those who chartered boats last year have already re-booked for 2016.

AboveAntigua Sailing Week offers action on the water and many UK sailors participate

BelowRaceboats can be chartered for similar regattas across the region

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as being lots of fun. It’s hosted by one of the BVI’s most enticing harbours, Nanny Cay, a marina and boatyard that’s expanding to meet demand for berths without losing its Caribbean charm. It’s a great place to stop over if you’re feeling the need for comforts like showers, launderette and shops, including a big new chandlery. We ended up staying for two nights, tempted by

the bar and restaurant and lovely beach.The BVI thrive on their reputation

as the Caribbean’s ‘nursery slopes’ but experienced sailors can stretch their sealegs by making the 13-mile open-water passage from Virgin Gorda to outlying Anegada, a low coral island famous for its snorkelling. In the full force of the trade winds and big Atlantic rollers, it’s an exhilarating ride.

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Flotilla holiday chart-topperBritish Virgin Islands

Island-hopping doesn’t get better than in the British Virgin Islands. One of the most popular yacht charter destinations on the planet, and perfect for first-time cruisers, the BVI (as they’re usually called) are a group of more than 50 beautiful islands. Most of the sailing area is sheltered from the might of the trade winds by the big island of Virgin Gorda, making sailing easy for novice yacht crews. Navigation is undemanding too: the islands are so close together that you need never sail for more than a couple of hours a day.

Flotillas are popular here, the lead crew taking the strain out of your first attempts at navigation and anchoring, and recommending the best bar or restaurant for the night ahead. Having been sworn bareboaters for years, we decided to try a flotilla in the BVI and realised what we’d been missing – fun, friendly people to chat with over drinks or a barbecue, comparing notes on the day’s adventures, making the experience more of a party. We could still enjoy peaceful times on pristine beaches during the day before meeting up with the group in the evening.

Highlights include the Soggy Dollar Bar on the island of Jost Van Dyke. Sip their signature Painkiller cocktail (Pusser’s rum, fruit juice and coconut) lying in a hammock slung between two palm trees gazing out on a turquoise sea.

There’s fantastic diving around The Indians rocks; even just snorkelling you’ll see lots of brightly coloured tropical fish and other-worldly coral formations.

If you cruise slowly past Richard Branson’s Necker Island you might see the man himself. By this time it might be several days since you stocked up at the supermarket at the charter base on the main island of Tortola. The BVIs are still – just – free from major building development so marinas and waterside shops are few and far between. However, past Necker inside Virgin Gorda’s North Sound you can get provisions in Leverick Bay: anchor off the upmarket Bitter End Yacht Club – maybe going ashore for a drink if you’re feeling bold – and have dinner at Fat Virgin’s Cafe in Biras Creek, a fun, laid-back place that’s only accessible by water.

The annual BVI Spring Regatta and Sailing Festival is fiercely fought as well

RightThe BVI Spring Regatta offers plenty of action

BelowSheltered bays make for a relaxed overall experience

BottomThe idyllic White Bay, Jost Van Dyke, in the BVIs

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Best for celeb-spottingSt Barths

This chic French island, which hosts races like the St Barths Bucket regatta for the world’s biggest sailing superyachts is best known as a favourite destination for celebrities. The likes of Beyoncé, Harrison Ford, Leonardo di Caprio and Rihanna fly into the tiny airport on even tinier planes. Prime time for celeb spotting is New Year’s Eve when Roman Abramovich and other billionaires rock up to host star-studded parties. While some stay at eye-wateringly expensive hotels, most seclude themselves in private villas slipping out at night to reservation-only restaurants.

But any sailor can arrive in a boat chartered from nearby St Martin and anchor for free. One yacht agent told me, “Americans charter huge catamarans and don’t even unfurl the sails, they motor to St Barths, drop anchor, and use the boat as a floating apartment for the week.”

We stayed for two days in beautiful Gustavia Harbour, going ashore in the dinghy to the town where one minute you are walking on a dirt track, the next you are standing in a tropical Bond Street, bursting with designer shops providing the super-rich with essential jewels, watches, clothes and handbags by Hermes, Bulgari, Cartier and Louis Vuitton.

It’s a gorgeous island, small enough to explore on foot. Sipping a beer in a barefoot-chic beach bar that probably cost a fortune in interior design fees, you never know who might walk in.

Our two-week bareboat charter took us from St Barths on to St Kitts and Nevis, then back to the St Martin charter base via Anguilla, a round trip of about 150 miles and another unforgettable Caribbean experience.

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Jewel of the CaribbeanThe Tobago Cays

These five, tiny uninhabited islands are dotted in a tranquil lagoon, protected from the Atlantic swell by an enormous coral reef. Don’t be confused by the name, this spectacular and unforgettable place is not part of Tobago; it’s in the Grenadines chain, reached from charter bases in either Grenada to the south or St Vincent to the north.

You’ll sail here in northeasterly trade winds of 15-25 knots in rolling seas – classic Caribbean conditions and Champagne sailing for more experienced crews.

Once inside the entrance to the lagoon, all is calm. Drop your anchor or pick up a mooring buoy and watch the surf crashing on the reef while your boat floats in undisturbed crystal clear water. Then swim or take the tender to explore, and don’t miss the chance to swim with turtles off Baradel Island. I still have a huge pink conch shell I found on a Tobago Cays beach, and if you venture inland on the islands you might spot tame tortoises and iguanas.

There are no shops or restaurants here, but ‘boat boys’ in high speed

launches visit from other islands in the chain selling bread and fish. At night we barbecued tuna steaks on board then lay on deck gazing at the stars not just above us but right down to the horizon. Many miles from the nearest civilisation, there’s no light pollution – it felt like being in a planetarium.

At some stage you need to tear yourself away and explore at least a couple of other islands in the Grenadines chain, like gorgeous, swanky Mustique, tiny Petit St Vincent and vibrant Bequia.

AboveExplore by tender (left); boat boys

BelowSaint Jean is a popular St Barths’ beach; J-Class yacht Ranger sails in the St Barths Bucket

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If you’re feeling adventurousCuba

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Summer beach-hoppingThe Bahamas

There are around 700 islands in the Bahamas, best known for their seemingly limitless sandy beaches and incredible wrecks and reefs for snorkelling and diving. Luckily you won’t need to puzzle over which islands to choose in your week or two, as the charter companies will advise on the best places to see, with just a few hours’ sailing between them.

Unlike our other hot picks, summer is the best time to visit the Bahamas if you want balmy temperatures. Winds are lighter than in the rest of the Caribbean making this an ideal place for first-time cruisers, though you need to keep an eye on where you are as the waters are shallow – which is one reason

why most charter boats are catamarans.Even though the Abaco Islands,

where most charters begin, are only an hour’s flight from Miami, there are still uncrowded places where you can swim and snorkel in the lagoon-like shallows. The advantage of their proximity to the USA is that the Bahamas offer easy living with plenty of convenient harbours where you can moor up and walk ashore to bars, restaurants and shops, great for those who are not so keen on remote places like the Grenadines where it’s simply you, your anchor, a lonely beach and the stars.

You can dive with sharks in the Tongue of the Ocean 20-mile undersea

trench, and see several species of turtle in Great Guana Cay. Other highlights include Treasure Cay with its immense, almost deserted white sand beaches, and the olde-worlde villages of Man-O-War Cay and Hopetown.

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When Christopher Columbus discovered Cuba in 1492, he said, “This is the most beautiful land one has ever seen.”

Cuba is definitely on my bucket list. Howard Richardson of Nautilus Yachting, one of the few major charter companies to offer Cuban holidays, says it’s a wonderful place for sailing, but not the easiest, and only experienced skippers with navigation and night sailing experience are encouraged to try it.

This is because the charter areas are two groups of offshore islands and itineraries either start or finish with a 60-70 mile overnight passage between the base at Cienfuegos on the south side of Cuba to your chosen cruising area. (The other leg, either there or back, is a mere 15 miles.) Constant 15-25 knot northeasterly tradewinds should ensure that the journey is at a reasonable speed.

A week’s trip to the Canarreos Archipelago offers hundreds of anchorages, and stopovers varying from deserted tiny islands to tourist resorts. There are exquisite beaches, coral reefs for snorkelling, a nature reserve famous for its monkeys, and the occasional restaurant. Don’t miss the turtle and crocodile farms.

Alternatively head for Jardines de la

Reina (‘Queen’s Gardens’), a stunningly beautiful nature reserve that’s home to flamingoes, iguanas and turtles. When snorkelling you might even find the reputed long-lost pirates’ treasure.

Before or after your trip to the islands, make sure to add time in Havana to see the historic buildings, listen to intoxicating Cuban music

and soak up the atmosphere. Cienfuegos, too, is a lively city with plenty of restaurants and nightlife.

With the USA re-establishing relations with Cuba, it’s likely that tourism will grow rapidly over the next few years. The advice is, if you want to experience sailing in Cuba as it is now – an off the beaten track adventure – do it soon.

CARIBBEAN TRAVEL



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There are more charter boats in Greece and its 6,000 islands than in any other country in the world. This is the place where countless sailors have taken their first

steps from dinghies to big boats and it’s not hard to understand why. All-day sunshine is pretty much guaranteed from May to September, giving you the option of a mid-summer scorcher or a money-saving shoulder season cruise in gorgeous, warm weather.

Parts of Greece with closely-spaced islands tucked away from the notorious Meltemi wind make perfect exploration grounds for beginners, where those with no navigation experience can easily get around using ‘eyeball’ pilotage, sailing to a different place every day, always in sight of land. With negligible tides and deep entrances, harbours are relatively simple to motor in and out of (unless there’s a strong cross-wind), and many places in the Ionian and Saronic Gulf are ideal for short-handed or novice crews

to get to grips with handling a yacht. Days on a Greek yachting holiday in

the ‘best for beginners’ Ionian islands take on a familiar rhythm: breakfast, gentle cruise to a white powder beach for a picnic lunch, a faster sail in the stronger afternoon wind to a picturesque harbour, practising your stern-to mooring.

After that, settle on deck or at a waterside bar to watch later incomers’ antics, before dinner of kebabs, moussaka or fresh fish at a friendly taverna, with carafes of the local wine.

More experienced sailors will probably prefer windier areas with longer distances between islands. If you’re confident on a yacht you’ll be able to sail from Athens to some of the Mediterranean’s hottest party islands in the breezy Cyclades.

The trick, if you’re thinking about a sailing holiday in Greece, is to choose the area and time of year carefully, according to your level of experience and the crew’s idea of what a sunshine holiday should be like. Ask yourselves whether

you want a gentle cruise or an exciting adventure. One young couple I know, both good sailors, regretted spending their romantic getaway bashing north against the Meltemi in the Dodecanese.

A larger crew might have enjoyed the challenge but my friends would have been better off with a one-way downwind charter, a more sheltered area, or a trip earlier or later in the year when winds are lighter.

Most charter companies have bases in a number of parts of Greece and will help you pick the best location for your level and experience and size of crew. They rely heavily on repeat bookings and word-of-mouth recommendation so it’s in their interests that you have a good time.

Whichever Odyssey you choose, you’ll hardly scratch the surface of the hundreds of beautiful islands on the charter itineraries, which is why so many sailors go back again and again, and there are those who would never go anywhere else.

SARAH NORBURY tours the Greek Isles to pick out the popular stop offs and uncover hidden gems

GREEK ODYSSEY

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AboveA charter boat gives you total independence

BelowEasing into the day - mornings are usually calm

1 The Ionian

BEST FOR

þ Beginnersþ Relaxed sailingþ Families

For gentle sailing and easy island-hopping, the Ionian Sea on the west coast of Greece is perfect. Most charter itineraries consist of short hops between the mainland and the string of beautiful, mountainous islands, sheltered from the open sea at all times.

More experienced sailors can head for Corfu in the north of the chain for more exposed, stronger wind sailing. The entire Ionian area lies outside the path of the Meltemi, and the prevailing north-westerly breezes are usually light in the mornings, building to Force 2 to 5 in the afternoons, ideal for getting used to skills, including anchoring and berthing side- and stern-to.

In July and August the winds in the Cyclades, Dodecanese and Sporades are especially strong, so for families with young children the gentler Ionian

makes a tempting choice. But it’s great for groups of friends, too. One of my favourite sailing holidays was a brilliantly varied week in the Ionian, from a quiet village taverna one night to the clubs and bars of Fiskardo the next. From busy ports like Nidri we found ourselves alone in a bay on the Onassis island of Skorpios, swimming from the bathing platform in a shimmering turquoise lagoon. We spent as much time sunbathing as we motored along on windless mornings as we did trimming sails in the afternoons – just the kind of holiday we wanted.

And who could resist visiting Ithaca, the island in Homer’s Odyssey that hero, Odysseus yearned for on his long journey home from the Trojan wars? Or Kephalonia, the setting for Captain Corelli’s Mandolin?

You can fly direct to Corfu and Preveza airports so transfer times to your charter base are under an hour; much easier than those charter bases that involve a flight to Athens then a ferry.

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To charter a boat in Greece, whether bareboat or flotilla, the skipper will need an ICC (International Certificate of Competence), RYA Day Skipper or higher qualification (unless you go with Sailing Holidays, which has dispensation to accept complete beginners on flotillas). Don’t worry if you don’t already have a certificate, because Greece, more than another other charter destination, is set up to cater for first-time yachties. Options range from a one-day ICC course to three or more days with an instructor on board. Or use a weekend in spring to get your ICC before you go at sailing school closer to home.

If you can’t decide between a dinghy beach club holiday and yacht cruising, why not do both? Companies such as Neilson, Ocean Elements and Seafarer offer combined holidays consisting of a week at a dinghy club and a week’s cruising, or dinghy holidays that include the chance to take one of the club yachts out on a day by day basis.

Set up to charter

20 yachtsandyachting.co.ukTravel 2016 Yachts & Yachting


AboveThe allure of a traditional Greek island harbour

BelowKos is a highlight of the Dodecanese

GREECE TRAVEL

3 The Dodecanese

BEST FOR

þ Strong windþ Variety – from tourist resorts

to historic cosmopolitan towns þ Unspolit gems

There are direct flights from the UK to charter bases on Rhodes and Kos, the two major islands in the Dodecanese area in the eastern corner of the Aegean close to the Turkish coast. In high summer the Meltemi blows from the north as strongly as in the Cyclades, but at a more comfortable average Force 2 to 4 in spring and autumn.

Around a million tourists descend on Rhodes each year, many heading for resorts like the infamous Faliraki as seen on TV. It’s worth visiting the

island just for the stunning view from the water of the Palace of the Grand Master and a wander in the pebbled streets of the medieval Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Kos is built-up with resorts, but its capital is equally brimming with history, including the ancient Agora ruins.

For a sophisticated atmosphere, head for Symi whose Gialos harbour is one of the finest in Greece, graced by elegant sea captains’ houses and smart bars.

‘Dodeca’ means 12 but there are actually 14 islands in the chain and, in complete contrast to Rhodes and Kos, escaping the crowds is easy; just head for the smaller islands to find exquisite, tranquil anchorages and your own private beach.

2 The Cyclades

BEST FOR

þ Strong windsþ Bareboat adventuresþ Experienced sailorsþ Partying

The Cyclades are the islands that visitors expect all of Greece to look like – whitewashed houses, tiny chapels with blue-painted domes, quaint tavernas, arid mountains, deep blue water and beaches so white you scrunch up your eyes from the glare.

However, these 50 islands – scattered in a circle in the central Aegean – are the windiest in Greece, making a

holiday here in Meltemi season (mid-June till late August) too challenging for the less experienced yacht sailor.

On the other hand, if you’re looking for exhilarating passage-making, go to the Cyclades in high summer and get your charter boat belting along in the Meltemi which can blow for days at a time at Force 5 to 6, sometimes 7 to 8. The breezes are lighter, at around Force 3 to 4 in spring and autumn, and tend to be gentler at all times of year down in the southwestern Cyclades.

Each island is unique with a charm of its own and it’s impossible to visit them all on a two-week

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charter holiday. Highlights include the windmills of Mykonos, the incredible volcanic crater of Santorini and the ancient ruins on Delos.

Mykonos, Paros and Naxos are party central, packed with holidaymakers from Athens and around the world, but when you need to get away from the crowds simply raise your anchor and head for quieter Kithnos, Sifnos, Milos, Kea, and the unspoilt lesser-known little islands like Iraklia and Dhounoussa.

The majority of Cyclades charters start from Athens at one of the marinas a short taxi ride from the airport, but flying direct to



Above leftTaking the plunge on a Saronic Gulf charter

Above rightWhen the Meltemi abates, there’s plenty of opportunity for other activities

5 The Sporades

BEST FOR

þ Fresh breeze, beyond beginner levelþ Off the beaten track, unspoiltþ Forested islandsþ Stunning beaches

The Sporades islands offer longer open-water passages for more experienced sailors. The northerly Meltemi hits Force 6 in July and August but winds tend to be moderate outside those months. Even at the height of the Meltemi there’s shelter on the southern sides of the islands, which have remained free of tourist development.

Amazingly, these green, pine-forested

islands have retained their traditional charm – despite Skopelos being the setting for the film Mamma Mia. You can climb those famous, vertiginous curving steps up to the little chapel and sing your heart out like Pierce Brosnan and Meryl Streep, (but don’t expect the interior to be as it was in the film, it’s not).

Lively Skiathos town has nightlife to please teenagers but is a million miles away in spirit from the likes of Faliraki. Also, visit the capitals of Alonysoss and Skopelos if you like classic Greek harbour-towns and lots of places to eat and drink. With fewer charter yachts than in most places, you’ll have

BEST FOR

þ Moderate windsþ Towns steeped in historyþ Greek sophisticationþ Sail directly from Athens

The area between Athens – down the western Greek mainland and up between the first two fingers of the Peloponnese – is ‘real’ Greece, busy in summer with visitors from Athens but relatively undiscovered by foreign tourists.

Being on the eastern edge of the Meltemi’s path, the winds here tend to be less strong in July and August than in the Cyclades; the prevailing, southerly breeze averaging Force 3. If the Meltemi arrives from the north it blows on average 4 to 5 – but beware of sudden stronger gusts on the eastern Peloponnese coast.

The first stop from Athens is Aegina, which gets so full of motorboats from the capital that when we visited they filled the harbour three boats out from the wall. Mooring was stressful,

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Join the debate and read more on page 28

Flotilla or Charter

Which wins your vote?

little trouble finding a spot to stay.For relaxing days just swimming and

lazing, seek out the bays of Agnonda or Panormos with their beaches and tavernas. Koukounaries beach on Skiathos is often listed as one of the great beaches of the world – busy, but breathtaking. It’s worth anchoring for lunch in turquoise water within the wide-gold arc of sand but not recommended for overnight shelter.

Getting there involves a ferry ride but as someone who’s been to Skiathos and fallen in love with the place, I’d say if you’re looking for the next step up from the Ionian, this is it.

but interesting! Once ashore it was all forgotten with the first Mythos beer and plate of crisp fried squid.

Sophisticates will enjoy the island of Hydra, traditional favourite of film stars and a lovely town to stroll in due to cars being banned: transport being by four legs, not four wheels, in the form of photogenic donkeys.

My favourite stop is Poros, once you’ve hustled for a gap on the harbour wall, which is all part of the fun. It’s busy, pretty and being in the lee of the mainland, sheltered, and it’s fun to navigate the channel out and around to Spetses (setting for John Fowles’ The Magus), where I’m convinced we once saw two whales in the distance.

Highlights for history lovers can be found on the mainland, including the ancient Greek amphitheatre at Epidavros, the Venetian castle of Nafplion, the captivating former capital of Greece, and the Byzantine gem, Monemvasia; simply stunning.

4 Saronic Gulf and Peloponnese

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BEACH CLUB MYTHS BUSTED

If you’ve ever thought a sailing centre holiday isn’t for you, it’s time to think again. HELEN FRETTER dispells

some common preconceptions

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TRAVEL DINGHY BEACH CLUBS

M YTH #1 – THEY’RE MOSTLY FOR NOVICE SAILORSIt’s true that beach clubs are a brilliant place to

learn to sail, or build your skills, but they are definitely not just holidays for newbies. There were some seriously experienced sailors out on the water when we headed to Greece to visit Neilson’s biggest beach club as a family, for a late summer break in September.

Amongst them were several who work in the sport enjoying a relaxing week after a busy domestic season, and a multiple European and world champion who pretty much demolished the competition every time he went sailing.

At the Neilson Messini base we found the timetabled activities included plenty of RYA courses for those just starting out, but daily Laser races were split by ability, giving experienced club racers decent competition throughout the week. There was also the chance to try catamaran sailing, and racing from the wire on a cat proved a fairly steep learning curve for even well practiced dinghy sailors.

As with many Mediterranean beach centres, while conditions in the mornings were generally very light, the afternoon breeze built steadily, peaking at a Force 4-5 on some days, with a nice rolling swell to add to the fun. And if the dinghy sailing didn’t

present enough of a challenge, there was always the option to pop back ashore and swap to a windsurfer – many of the most experienced racers joined the beach team for some high speed blasting around on a board at the end of the windiest days.

Elsewhere, there are several independent sailing centres that place a big emphasis on instruction catered towards experienced helms and crews. Minorca Sailing offers advanced sailors instruction in trapeze techniques, boat tuning clinics, and competitive racing in many classes, with special coaching weeks held in classes such as the Musto Skiff and RS fleets.

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winds venue of Vassiliki, with punchy catamarans such as the Tornado and F18 Hobie Tiger, and a wide range of dinghies that includes the Laser 4000 and RS500. And if you want to take on a new challenge, the Pro Vela sailing centre on Mar Menor specialises in teaching experienced sailors to fly a foiling Moth, with Spanish sunshine and warm water to make the experience even more enjoyable.

MYTH #2 THE KIT IS BORINGThis is far from true! Neilson Messini, like many beach clubs, had a large fleet of Picos and a handful of family friendly designs (such as the Bahia) on the beach, because they are great teaching boats. But there was also the chance to try the RS500, and a fleet of catamarans including the fun single-wire RS Cat 16.

As mentioned above, other centres offer a wide range of designs from the RS200 to 29er, recent launches such as the RS100 or RS Aero, skiffs including the Laser 4000, Musto Skiff or RS800, fast cats, and foiling Moths. When you book, it’s worth checking the equipment list to see what’s available. For 2016, Ocean Elements is offering a performance boat upgrade package, giving experienced sailors exclusive access to boats such as the RS Aero, RS100, RS200, RS500 and RS800 for a weekly charge.

For some more high performance designs, life on a sandy beach is less than ideal and you may occasionally find your dinghy of choice in the pit lane for part of your holiday. But that’s part of the joy of a beach centre – all the boat maintenance is somebody else’s responsibility. At the first day

briefing at Messini the staff made it very clear that if something breaks, you should simply hand it over to the beach team to deal with, and then jump into the next ready-rigged boat, with the minimum of sailing time lost. If weather conditions change, you can switch to something else. Or if the wind dies completely, you could grab a SUP or canoe and go for a paddle. There was definitely no such thing as boring.

MYTH #3 THERE’S NOTHING ELSE TO DO If you spend all your free weekends sailing, it might be a hard sell to convince

AbovePerformance cats like Wildwind’s F18 Hobie Tigers offer an extra challenge

BelowMinorca Sailing is tailored to racers; Most clubs include other activities such as bike clinics

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family and friends that you should also go on a sailing based holiday. But at Messini there were hardly any husbands or wives hanging around waiting for their other half to come in off the water. In fact, most of the couples and groups of friends did their own thing for most of the week, and only joined up for meal times. The packed Neilson programme meant you could quite easily spend a whole week out on guided road or mountain bike rides, improving your game on the tennis courts, or mixing it up with some fitness classes, spa time, scuba diving, wakeboarding… There is an endless list of options, which probably explains why so many people we met were taking a fortnight’s holiday. There is simply no way you would manage to do everything on offer in a week.

The other factor that allows you to cram so much in, is the inclusive wrap-around childcare. With a combination of full days, half days and even evening ‘sleep clubs’, there is no dashing from one activity to crèche to pick up stranded kids. The childcare fits around the activity times, so everyone in each family can enjoy time to do what they want. Of course, if that’s lying on a sunlounger, or making sandcastles as a family, that’s just fine too.

Other beach clubs offer different options – Vassiliki is a world-renowned windsurfing destination and many centres there offer higher performance boards as well as dinghies, while the Wildwind centre there also offers a healthy options programme that includes yoga, snorkelling, fitness classes, and guided walks. Ocean Elements centres not only include RYA courses in their holiday cost, but other



activities such as bike skills clinics and beach yoga, as well as childcare.

Mark Warner clubs offer childcare from 4 months to 17 years (free from 2 years), with evening babysitting options for little ones, and optional ‘Indy Club’ sessions and socials for older teens. Several of its beach bases also specialise in tennis – the Lakitera base boasts nine courts, with intensive coaching available (£250 per week) – and activity programmes that include mountain biking, scuba diving, and wakeboarding or waterskiing are widely available.

MYTH #4 THE HOTELS ARE A BIT BASICI first went on a beach club holiday over a decade ago, and the standard of hotels on offer has come a long way since. Messini is one of Neilson’s newest five-star purpose built resorts, and as such is very high spec, with modernist design, ensuite rooms with huge beds, and all mod-cons. It’s not all for show either – air-con so you can get a decent night’s sleep even in high summer, large balconies with drying rack for swimsuits and sports kit, flatscreen televisions and Wi-Fi.

However, if you want formal dining then Messini is probably not for you. The open-air restaurant served buffet meals for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The choice, quality and quantity of food was of a very high standard – lots of grilled meats and fish, a huge range of salads featuring local ingredients, and more olives than you could shake a stick at (we were near Kalamata after all). There are family and adults-only zones, but expect kids crowding round the chocolate fountain, with flipflops and boardshorts very much the dress code for the week.

The poolside bar made a smart cocktail, but also had a very laid-back vibe.

Mark Warner’s purpose-built Levante base on the Greek island of Rhodes is another modern five-star hotel, but also offers a pan-Asian and a la carte restaurant alongside buffet and taverna-style dining.

Meanwhile, some beach bases have a range of accommodation to suit different budgets – Minorca Sailing’s self-catering options range from simple apartments to the stylish ‘premier’ villas, with sleek kitchens and seafront terraces.

Offering a taste of the local culture, Seafarer’s Nikiana beach club on the Greek island of Lefkas prides itself on the local family-run taverna on site - its small hotel (25 rooms) is on a B&B basis only to allow guests to make the most of the authentic local cuisine.

MYTH #5 THEY’RE NOT VERY RELAXINGIf holidays are about getting away from it all, then a beach club holiday might make you nervous. If you dread being herded from activity to activity, forced

DINGHY BEACH CLUBS TRAVEL

to make polite conversation over dinner, or pressured to join in with ‘fun’ socials that involve public singing – fear not.

We found plenty of opportunities to get to know our fellow holidaymakers, and some great friendships formed, with cocktail making masterclasses, ‘booze ’n’ balls’ (alcohol-fuelled tennis) and daily volleyball championships at Messini. But it’s all voluntary. If you want to get lost in your book, enjoy a quiet dinner for two, or explore by bike alone, that is absolutely fine too. And if you really want peace and quiet, going for a gentle sail or paddle in the light morning breeze was hard to beat.

Read around carefully as many clubs have a different atmosphere – for example, Neilson’s smaller Seaside Beachclub in Turkey has special ‘adults only’ weeks throughout the season. Mark Warner’s Helona Beach Resort is a modernist hotel dotted with infinity pools (some attached to private villas), and an à la carte restaurant, spa and hamman on site. It is sited near the activity and family-focused Lakitira beach club, so visitors can enjoy Lakitira’s sailing or sports programmes, but come back to a relaxing hotel.

You don’t have to limit yourself to the Mediterranean either. Wildwind’s new Mauritius base offers tropical beaches to relax on, whilst Antigua’s Nonsuch Bay offers an idyllic and luxurious Caribbean option, boasting a 30-strong fleet, including the RS Aero.

Ultimately, the great thing about beach club holidays is that everything is taken care of, with little more required of you than a bit of leisurely hiking. For me, that makes them one of the most relaxing holidays around.

AboveMark Warner offers luxury hotels and family focused facilities

BelowFoiling Moths are the highlight at Pro-Vela

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Flotillas – sailing in company with a group of other boats – offer a fun and friendly introduction to yachting. Every morning

the lead skipper holds a briefing, often in a waterside cafe, showing how to plot the day’s route on the chart with optional places to stop for lunch. He or she will often throw in some gentle navigation advice, or advise what to do when your anchor doesn’t hold, or an advanced technique for cross-winds in that evening’s harbour. Then the day’s your own, you can stick with a group or go off to a deserted beach, all meeting up again in late afternoon.

One great thing about flotillas is that the lead boat arrives in harbour first each evening, so when your approach to the harbour wall goes pear-shaped the friendly lead-crew are there to catch your lines.

My first few charter holidays were bareboat. I figured we knew how to sail and navigate, and we wanted our own adventures. We had a brilliant time just the two of us, but when we eventually tried a flotilla we loved the sociable evenings ashore (pontoon parties, barbeques, taverna suppers and the like) the inside advice on the best places to anchor, and it turned out we didn’t know everything and took tips from the lead skipper that we now use when sailing at home. On one flotilla with Sunsail we congregated in an uninhabited bay and 10 boats anchored as a raft, in a perfect line all tied together, quite a complex operation, then dinghied ashore and photographed the impressive result before a moonlit barbeque - a magical experience.

If you’re parents to teenagers, consider a flotilla as your youngsters might have a far better time hanging out with new

TRAVEL CHARTER OPTIONS

friends than stuck with mum and dad. Charter companies will advise on which flotillas are most popular with families.

The opposite of sailing gently just a few miles a day in company is a Mediterranean bareboat adventure, covering distance, exploring far and wide. For experienced sailors, spending a week or two in the sun, especially in windier regions, is an exhilarating experience – driving along on blue water with sparkling spray, heading for the next island on the horizon, testing your nav skills, anticipating the challenge of an unknown harbour and the satisfaction of a safe arrival in another stunningly beautiful place. With a bareboat, you’re free to sail where you like, within the limits of the charter company’s area.

In either case, why not put any preconceptions aside and try something new this summer?

AboveCan the fun and friendliness of a flotilla beat the freedom of a bareboat charter?

FLOTILLAVBAREBOATAre you a firm believer in flotilla sailing or are bareboat charters the only option for

you? SARAH NORBURY uncovers some pros and cons that might make you re-think

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Perfect port end starts – every time

Sportsboats RACING CLASSES REVIEW

New ratings chief looks to the future

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01/12/2015 18:10

TOP KIT, BOATS, SAILORS:

Giles Scott With fellow Brits on the road to Rio

Ainslie’s new rideMartin Whitmarsh: from F1 to BAR

Dinghy technique with

– LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT WINNER

YACHTSYACHTING



YACHTSYACHTING



£4.30Issue #1695 March 2016yachtsandyachting.co.uk

YOUR PREVIEW TO THIS YEAR’S DINGHY SHOW

MOD70 showdown

OFFSHORE

Take the lead HOW TO WIN

in handicap fl eets PLUS Bloody Mary

winner’s tips

Noble failuresANALYSIS

Sights set INTERVIEW

on gold Nick Thompson – in the footsteps of Olympic legends

Rambler ON BOARD

Highs and lows of the Sydney-Hobart

Bypass the protest room and boost your confi dence

ESSENTIAL RULESExpert tips: fi nd the fastest kit for your boat

DECK HARDWAREPlan your dream trip to the 2017 America’s Cup venue

BERMUDA GUIDE GC32s take over for 2016 Extreme Sailing Series

EXTREME REVAMP

8 designs that went spectacularly wrong

PLUS Dona Bertarelli – the fastest woman around the world

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YOUR PREVIEW

INTERVIEW

YOUR PREVIEWFREE

52-page

guide* *with UK copies

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CHELSECHELSECHEL AMAR INEM A G A Z I N E S

From Wi-Fi to VHFs – the best kit to have on board

STAYING IN TOUCH

PLUS North PLUS North PLUSSails reveals

latest tech

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From Wi-Fi to VHFs – the best kit to have on board

STAYING IN TOUCH

CHELSECHELSECHEL AMAR INE

Take the lead HOW TO WIN

in handicap fl eets PLUS Bloody Mary PLUS Bloody Mary PLUS

winner’s tips

Noble failuresANALYSIS

Plan your dream trip to the 2017 America’s Cup venue

BERMUDA GUIDE GC32s take over for 2016 Extreme Sailing Series

EXTREME REVAMP

8 designs that went spectacularly wrong

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“Ever since I was a kid I have loved reading

Yachts & Yachting”BEN AINSLIE

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