Download - Orissa
Ikat textiles known as bandhas
Have a distinct native identity
Started from a religious point of view(Jaganath Puri)
Mostly done on single ikat
Recently started with double ikat sarees
Patronised for generation by local population of all social strata
40000 looms scattered around Orissa
Production of large quantities of ikat in Tussar Silk
Represented by two weaver community : the Mehers of Sonepur and Bargarh and the Patras from Naupatna and Cuttack
Traditionally Patra weavers from Nautpatna specialised in Bandhas of mulberry and Tussar Silk and the Mehers of Bargarh mainly weaved cotton ikats.
Jayadeva, the great poet of the 12th century, wished to offer the sacred “Gita Gobinda” text to Lord Jaganath, Lord of the universe. In order to ensure close proximity to his deity, he decided to procure fabrics with lyrics woven into them with which to adorn the image. So impressed was King Ramchandradeva by this symbolic act that he immediately placed orders for these fabrics in Naupatna. Each Pheta contained one shloka or verse woven into it. Today the weavers from the patra community in Naupatna continue to weave these traditional Gita Gobinda Fabrics.
An interesting custom about the antiquity of ikat weaving in Orissa says that each family preserves a small piece of fabric woven by their forefathers to the seventh generation. When an elder dies, his successor adds his fabric to those of his ancestors. The fabrics apparently endowed with some mystical significance, are kept in secret places and are not ordinarily available for inspection.
1 Bhubaneshwar
2 Naupatna
3 Sambalpur
4 Bargarh
5 Bolangi
.
Weaver’s community
Meher Gauduia Patra Asani Patra
Meher
Kuli
Costa
Bhulia
Kuli are labour class meher
Costa are TASSAR weavers
Tie and Dye weavers in cotton
Bhulia is also called as DEVANGAS
In last ten years a scheduled caste GONDAS have also learnt tie and dye technique.
SOCIO-ECONOMIC CONDITIONS
Highly skilled tie and dye weaver earns as much as Rs.300/- per month.
An ordinary tie and dye weaver earns Rs 75/- per month.
Bargarh is the largest area of cotton tie and dye weavers.There are almost 5500-6000 tie and dye weavers in
Orissa are actively engaged.The cost of a cotton tie and dye saree varies from Rs 20-
Rs 120.Silk tie and dye saree is from Rs140- Rs 220.The tie and dye fabrics , particularly silk and cotton
sarees are in demand in Delhi,Calcutta and Bombay markets.
Tassar silk
Cotton (mercerised)
Vegetable dyes
Pit Looms
Raised Pit Looms
Frame Looms
Pit Loom
Raised pit loom
Bargarh-Sonepur
Cotton tie and dye material : Rs. 25 to Rs 50 per meter
Cotton tie and dye saree : Rs 300 to Rs 750
Silk tie and dye saree : Rs 1000 to Rs 1400
Naupatna
Silk tie and dye saree : Rs 1000 to Rs 1400
Tassar tie and dye saree : Rs. 650 to Rs. 700
Tassar and Spun Silk furnishing material Rs 100 per meter
The prices have gone up further by 50 % in the span of 5 years
Organize silk 20/22 Den, 18/20 Den :
Rs 850 to Rs 1150 per kg
Charkha Silk
Rs 700 to Rs 900 per kg
Spun Silk
Rs 600 per kg
Art Silk (Rayon)
Rs 100 perkg
Tassar reeled yarn
Rs 550 to Rs 650 per kg
Cotton 17 NF
Rs 182 to Rs 188 per bundle
Mercerised and bleached : Rs 410 to Rs 960 per bundle
NAMES OF THE EQUIPMENTS USED IN ORISSA
ORISSA EQUIPMENT NAME
Manga LoomHatha SleyLatai, Ashara Small equipment on which warp
is woundJantur Wraping FrameUphurna Weft preparation Frame
Kamra Tie and Dye FrameBaw HealdPania,Jat ReedKanda Small PrinDungi, Maku Fly ShuttleNurie, Phinga Maku Throw Shttle
Unwinding Yarn
Preparation of Weft
Preparation of Warp
Street Sizing
Marking of the design
and tying
Dyeing
Weaving
Curvilinear lines usage
Lotus Lord Lakshmi
Symbol of universe emerging from the sun
Seat of brahma the creator
The shankha or conchSymbolise mystic symbol “om”
Symbolises Nada Brahma or God in the form of sound
RudrakshaWorn around Lord Shiva’s neck or devotees of lord shiva
Has a spiritual power in these seeds
Used for chanting
The FishFirst incarnation of Lord VishnuOne of the symbols of good luckSymbolise prosperity
The coiled serpentSnake worshipSnake believed to be immortalUnending cycle of time and immortality
The elephantFertility and Cosmic watersLearning(knowledge)
Other motifs include various types of creepers, animals like deer, lion,duck and rarely geometrical patterns. Inspiration from architecture, folk painting, mythology and other textiles.
Saktapar
Checkboard design
Commonlly used in sarees
Phetas
Holy script from Gita Gobinda
Written by Jayadeva
Eye catching deep colours
Red
Black
Blue
Purple
Yellow
Striking section of the saree: anchal or pallu of saree
Numerous variations based on the classic Bichitrapur Anchal composed of rows of floral and figurative separated by fine stripes or brocade bands
Originally had two ends as both of them were exposed
Borders had flower motifs. Phuliyas could go up to 10 rows. Called 10 phuliyas or bhuliyas
Berhampur
Famous for textured silk saree with typical motifs and khumbhas(temple border)
Body of saree : mostly plain
Border : extra warp marginal tie and dye effect
Ganjam
Producing mostly dhotis, sarees etc.
Naupatna Famous for khradra
Body and border and anchal done with tie and dye
Designs done on mercerised cotton yarn
Motifs: animals in combination with floral
Bargarh and Sambalpur Famous for production of
sambalpur sari
Cotton, silk and tussar
Highly decorative traditional designs
Motifs: various forms of animals and floral patterns
Exotic colour combinations
Products: dress material , furnishing material
Sonepur and Bolengiri Famous for intricate
and innovative designs
Traditionally woven by Mehers
Pride of the area: Bichitrapur and Saktapar saree
Motif : animals, flora, fauna, temple and geometrical forms
Bombai saree – western part
Khandua saree - Naupatna
Bandha Saree – every part of Orissa
Berhampur saree - Southern
Phulbani – lot of tribal saree weaving
Saktapar Saree or Passapalli
Bafta saree
PRODUCTS
Saree
Bed cover
Cushion Cover
Table Cover
Tray cloth
Skirt Material
Table Napkins etc…
Cotton
Scarf
Stole
Than Cotton and Silk
INSTITUTIONS IN ORISSA
Sri Bhangaban Meher
Sri Baja Behra
All India Fabric Marketing Co-operative society
Rigid distinctions no longer exist
Division of skills and specialisation has entered ikkatproduction in many villages
Some specialise in tie and dye
Neighbouring villages buy dyed yarn to be woven into saree
Traditional motifs once confined to one or the other weaver group are now borrowed and redesigned by both communities.
Weavers who once wove only sarees for local usage now produce yardage, scarves, linen excetra for urban and export market.
Ikat Fabrics of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh
By: Bijoy Chandhra Mohanty
Second Edition
Ikat Textiles of India
Chelna Desai