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EASTERNTURKEY,MAY2010
byJohnRayner
White-throatedRobin(PhotocourtesyofPeteWorthy)
PREPARATIONManybirdinggroupshavevisitedEasternTurkeysotheareaiswelldocumentedbutmostbirderstravelaconventionalcircularrouteandtakeatleast14daystofitinallthemainsites.Wehadlesstimeavailablebutmanagedtoseeallourtargets,includingmanyspecialbirdsontheverylimitsoftheirrange,byhiringacaronaone-waydropoffbasis.Asthisisnotacommonpractiseadetailedtripreporthasbeenprepared.Intheeventthistriptookagreatdealoforganisation.Hiringacarfor10daysonaone-waydropoffbasisprovedtobesomethingofaproblem.FollowingtherecentWorldrecession,andconsequentreductionintourism,carhirecompaniesacrosstheboardhadcuttheirfleetsconsiderablyandweonlyfoundonecompany(Avis)whowerepreparedtoofferanythinglargerthanaFordFocus,whichwasunsuitableforateamof5.So,eventually,wepickedupa9-seaterVolkswagenCaravelle(£158eachincludingallinsurancesandwaivers)inAdanaanddroppeditoffinTrabzon10dayslaterwithanadditional3482km(2150miles)ontheclock.Wepaidextrafor3drivers(£12each)andspreadingthedrivingloadoversuchadistanceprovedtobeinvaluable.FlightswerealittleeasiertoorganiseusingPegasusAirlinesfromStanstedtoIstanbul,thenaninternalflighttoAdana(£202each).Butafurtherslightcomplicationaroseinthatonememberofthepartywantedapre-tripholidayinIstanbulwithhiswife.Soitwasthat4membersoftheteam(NeilMarshall,JohnRayner,DougSmithandFredWake)flewfromStanstedtoIstanbulon20thMaytomeetTonyArmstrongwhohadflownout3daysearlier.
GENERALINFORMATIONWeallboughttouristvisasatSabihaGockenairport,Istanbul(10Euros).WenavigatedusingthemapthatcamewithTheRoughGuideandfounditperfectlysatisfactory.Althoughwecoveredhighmileagein10daysitneverfeltlikeweweresatinthecaralldaylong.Wedidhaveacoupleofdedicatedlongmileagedaysbutstillmanagedsomebrilliantbirdingonthosedaysaswelland,inthemain,avoidednightdriving.TheTurkishinfrastructureisgoodwithplentyoftollmotorways(intheMediterraneanregion)andwithdualcarriagewaysthroughout.Inparticularthereareon-goingimprovementstothedualcarriagewayfromGaziantepallthewaytoCizreontheIraqiborder,whichwillspeedupfuturetripsconsiderably.
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Wetookwithusthestandardsiteandfieldguides:FindingBirdsinEasternTurkey(Gosney),Birdwatchers'GuidetoTurkey(Prion),CollinsBirdGuideandphotocopiesofmanytripreports,allofwhichareeasilyaccessibleontheinternet.ThereisastrongmilitarypresenceinsoutheastandeasternAnatoliaregionsandclasheswiththeKurdishWorker’sParty(PKK)stilloccur.Althoughwepassedthroughtheseareasandclosebysomesensitiveborders(themainroadactuallyrunsalongsidetheSyrianborderforsomedistancearoundNusaybin)weonlypassedafewpoliceorarmycheckpoints.Oneveryoccasionwewerewavedthroughwithouthassleandinfriendlyfashiononcewesaid“English”and“tourist”.WefollowedadvicewhenleavingIdilandavoidedthemanycheckpointsonthemoredirectroutenorth.InsteadwedetourednortheastthennorthwestviaMidyat,BatmanandSiirt.WeweremovedonatanimpromptulunchtimestopnearMidyatbecauseitwastoonearahilltoplisteningpostandwewerewatchedthroughbinocularsfromawelldisguisedarmyfoxholebuiltfromlavaatSerpmetaslavafields,thentoldtoleave.OneTurkfoundanovelwaytodisturbourroadsidebirdingnearHotelGenesis,Sivrikayabyfiring10roundsfromthedriver’swindow(thankfullyintotheair).However,wefoundTurkishpeopleingeneralandKurdishpeopleinparticular,tobeextremelyfriendlyandwelcoming.Indeedthemainproblemwastogetonwithbirdingwhilstpolitelyrefusingthemanyoffersoftea(cay)ortosharefood.IneasternAnatoliaverylittleEnglishisspokenandwecameacrossonlyahandfulofwesternEuropeans,mostlybirders,outsideofIstanbul.Inmanyplacespeoplejuststoppedandstaredaswewereobviouslyquiteanovelty.Theexchangerateduringourstaywasapproximately2.20TL/poundsterling.Fuelwasveryexpensive,approximately3.00–3.20TLperlitre(aneye-watering£1.46/litreor£6.55/gallonforthosestillworkingin‘oldmoney’).BizarrelyitseemedtogetmoreexpensiveasweapproachedthebordersofTurkey’soilrichneighbours,Syria,IraqandIran.Weallatesaladsandice-creamsandno-onehad‘Sultan’sRevenge’butwealwaysavoidedtapwaterandusedbottledwaterthroughout(exceptatRidosSpawherethetapwaterwasprobablypurerthanbottled).Apartfromtheubiquitouskebabs(particularlygoodinGaziantep)wealsohadfreshseabream(chopra)andparticularlylikedtoeatsutlac(acoldricepuddingsprinkledwithcrushedhazelnuts)onourfrequentcoffeestops.Onlyaveryfewbitinginsectswereencountered,mostlyroundtheEuphrates.AlthoughthisisalowriskmalariazonetakingChloroquinisprobablyun-necessaryatthistimeofyear(althoughacourseonlycosts£2orso).WehadreadalotaboutviciousAnatoliansheepdogsandthegeneraladvicewastotreatthemasthelocalsdobyhurlingrocksatthem.Intheeventweonlycameclosetoonehugedogwhilstoutofthevehicle,withtheaptnameof‘Baddi’.Hewasbiggerthanhisshepherdboyownerandwiththetemperamentofapussycat.However,ourvehiclewaschasedafewtimesbylessfriendlyindividualscompletewithpunk-style,rusty,nail-studdedwolfcollarsandweweregladweweren’toutinthefieldwhenthesewerearound!Thereislittlewithinthisreportonwildlifeotherthanbirds.Thebutterfliesandalpinefloraweresimplystunningbutwedidn’thaveeitherthetimeortheexpertiseforfulleridentifications.I(JohnRayner)providedmostofthephotographsandmentionmustbemadeofmybirdphotography-mediocreatbestasIsimplyhandholdaCanoncompacttomytelescopeandhope.Therefore,specialthankstoPeteWorthyforallowingmetousehismuchbetterphotographstoenhancethisreport.
ACCOMODATIONWepre-bookedaccommodationsinIstanbulandAdanatominimisedhassle,aswehadlate-isharrivaltimesatbothairports.AlsowebookedBasarHassantoprovidetransportandguideup/downDemirkazikMountain.ThisisnotabsolutelynecessaryastheSnowcockswerestillputtingonashowaswedescendedat07.30.However,accommodationinthisareaislimited.Nootheraccommodationwasbookedinadvance,thenormbeingabout40-50TLforadoubleroomonabedandbreakfastbasis(approx£9-£11each).Wedidnoticethatpricesingeneralwereabout20%dearerthanthe2009RoughGuidesuggestedbutatmanyhotelspriceswerenegotiable.DespiteapparentlygoodsignagewefailedtofindTheTouristInformationCentre,atIsliki.Thiswouldhavebeenthemostconvenientaccommodationandthereisanarrowedsign“TouristInformationCentre3kilometres”inIslikivillagebutthetrailthenwentcold.Perhapswewouldhavedonebetterindaylight.(Stoppress.Wejustheardofanothergroupwhohadsimilarproblemsaweekafterus).WefoundhotelsinVantobemuchmoreexpensivethanthe2009RoughGuidesuggested.LakeVanisabitofatouristareathough.ThecheapestnightwasatIshakPashaclosetotheIranianborder,“MuratCampingandHotel”(15TLperpersonwithbreakfast8TL)Itisbasicbutinasuperblocationandthusrecommended.
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HotelGenesisis5kNorthofSivrikayainthenextvillageofCamlik(N.B.Atleast1tripreporterroneouslystatesitis5ksouthofSivrikaya).ItiswellpositionedforCaucasianGrouseandhasGreenWarblersinthewoodsattheback.However,itwasstillclosedinMayanddidnotopentill1stJune.Itssisterhotel,TheRidosThermalHotelandSpa,is21kfurthernorthatIsikdere.Thisisveryplushbutwenegotiatedareasonablerateof92TLp.p.p.n.foramini-suiteonabed,breakfastandeveningmealbasis.Thisequatedto£42B,B&Eand,withsumptuousfood,thiswasfarabetterratethanonecouldgetforanEnglishequivalent.TheRoughGuidesuggeststhatsomebudgethotelsinTrabzonmaydoubleasbrothels.WearenotsuggestingthisisthecasewithHotelElegantebuttheydon’tappeartohavemanyroomsotherthansingleswithdoublebeds(!)andtwoorthreelikely‘Natashas’didvisittherestaurant.Wewerewelloutofitonthe6thfloor!Thishotelisveryconvenientfortheairportandgaveusanexcellentlastnightmealinitsrestaurant.
ITINERY(Allhotelratesperperson)
20May.DepartedStansted12.50.(PegasusAirlines).ArrivedIstanbul(SabihaGoken)18.25.Night:MarmaraGuesthouse,Istanbul(34EuroB&B).21May.Sight-seeingIstanbul.Eveningflight(Pegasus)DepartIstanbul19.40.Pegasus126arrivedAdana21.00.PickupAvisVWCaravelle.Night:HotelMercan,Adana(20TLB&B).22May.Earlystart.DrovewestonmotorwaypastTarsus&MersintoDemircili.GoksuDeltatillmidmorning.LunchGoksuDeltatheninafternoondrovenorth(mostlymotorway)toCukurbagvillageforDemirkazikmountain.Birdedlowergorgetilldusk.NightOzSafakPensionwithBasarSafak(30EuroB,B&E)23May.Upat03.30forcarrideupDemerkazikMountain(2150m).Walkeddowngorgeforlunch.BirdedCukurbagandlowertomidlevelsofDemerkaziktilllatepm.LongdriveonmotorwaytoGaziantep.FailedtofindAccommodation‘TouristInformationCentre’inIsliki.NightHotelAyintap,Gaziantep(20TLB&B).24May.Earlymorningonnewquarryroad,DurnalikthenlunchontrackupfromvillagestoreintheIsikli.Inafternoondrove1houreasttoBirecikfor2nightstay.BirdedGravelWorkslagoonsandvisitedGulhameTeaGardens.NightHotelMirkalem(noisy.22.50TLroomonly).25May.EarlystarttobirdBaldIbisCentrewadi.Latebreakfastthenvisitedpistachiofields.Chill-outlunchinEskiHalfetionEuphratesbarrage(35knorthofBirecik).LateafternoonbacktoBirecikbirdingSEbanksofEuphratesandre-visitedGravelWorksLagoons.2ndNightHotelMirkalem.26May.Longdrivingeast(muchonm/wayandcurrentmajorroadimprovementsshouldmakethiseasierinfuture).DrovenexttoSyrianborderbeforecuttingNEtoIdilreservoirforRed-wattledLapwing.ThenheadedNW/NEviaMidyat,BatmanandSkiirttoBitlis.NightHotelDiderban,Bitlis(25TLB&B).27May.EarlystartforNemrutDagi(extinctvolcaniccrater).ThenanticlockwisearoundsouthernandeasternfringesofLakeVan.FailedtofindsuitableaccommodationinVansobacktoHotelTusba,Edremit(50TLB&B)28May.EdremitMarshes,LakeErcekandBendimaheMarshes.SerpmetasLavaFields.BirdedTendurekGecidiPass(2644m)anddroveclosetoIranianborderwithviewsofMountAraratthenviaDogubayazittoIshakPashaPalace.NightMuratCampingandHotelinanexcellentlocationjustbelowpalace.(15TLroomonly).29May.BirdedslopesaboveIshakPashatillnoonthenlongdrivewestviaAgri,Eleskirt,Ezerum.BirdedGelinkaya.Drovenorthovervariouspasses(Sac,Agziacik,OvitdagiGecidi)toHotelGenesisnearSivrikaya-Closedtill1stJune!Drovenorth21ktoexpensive(butexcellent|)RidosHotel,Ikizdere(Negotiated92TLforamini-suiteandsumptuousfood).30May.Drove2ksouthofSivrikayatobirdalpineslopesthere.SouthtoIspirandRiverCoruhValley.VisitedHotelGenesiswoodland.2ndNightRidosHotel,Ikizdere.31May.EarlystarttobirdSivrikaya,HotelGenesiswoodland.DrovenorthwesttoBlackSeacoastnearRize,thenwesttoTrabzonandsouthtoSumelaMonastery.ReturnedcartoAvisatTrabzonAirport(+3482k).NightHotelElegante,Trabzon(goodrestaurantandconvenientforairport).(50TLB&Bforasingle)1stJun.DepartTrabzonat06.00arrivedIstanbul07.45.DepartIstanbul10.20arrivedStansted12.10
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SUMMARYOFTHETOUR20thMay.WearrivedlateinIstanbulafterourpre-arrangedtaxitransferfailedtoshowatSabihaGockenairportandmetupwithTonyA.foralatemeal.Notasearlytobedaswewouldhavelikedbutitwastobealeisurelysight-seeingdaytomorrow.21stMay.OurhotelwaswellpositionedintheSultanhametdistrictwithineasywalkingdistanceofthemaintouristattractions.TelescopesweresoonsetupontheroofterraceduringbreakfastaswewatchedraftsofYelkouanShearwatersstreamingoutoftheBlackSeaandheadingdowntheBosphorus.WedidthetouristrouteandvisitedtheBlueMosque,OldMosque,andTopkapiPalacewithlunchatthefamousPuddingShop.TopkapiPalacegroundsheldnumbersofRing-neckedParakeetswiththeoccasionalAlexandrineParakeetthrownin.BetterthantheseintroductionswastheOlive-treeWarblersingingloudlyneartheHarementrance.
Above:BlueMosque,Istanbul
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Above:HagiaSophia,Istanbul
AfewotherbirdswereseenincludingtheonlyShag(ssp.desmarestii)ofthetripatGalataBridgebutbirdinghadn’treallystartedyet.Later,aftera1houreveningflighttoAdana,wepickedupourhirecarandfoundourdowntownhotel.22ndMay.Afteranearlybreakfastwehittheroad-butwest,noteast.Goodtollmotorways,passingTarsusandMersin,soonhadusatDemirciligraveyard,afavouritebirdingsitefrommanytripreports.Hereinthepinewoodsopposite,wescoredquicklywithWhite-spectacledBulbul,Cretzschmar’sBunting,Ruppell’sWarbler,SombreTitandnestingKruper’sNuthatches.
Above:Pinewoods,DemirciliHavinghitallthetargetswemovedonandateourpicniclunchinatowerhideoverlookingGoksuDelta.Atime-wasterinretrospectatthewrongtimeofday.Heathazehamperedduckidentificationandthebestwecouldfindwere2WhitePelicans,afemaleRed-crestedPochard,aBlackFrancolinperchedoutsingingandmanyGracefulPriniasandZittingCisticolas
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Above:Towerhide,GoksuDelta
Above:BlackFrancolin,GoskuDelta(photographcourtesyofPeteWorthy)
Timetomove,againusingtheexcellentmotorwaysystem,toheadnorthtoCukurbag.HereweweremetbyourguideBasarHassanandevenmanagedacoupleofhoursbirdingtillduskupthelowerpartsofthegorgeatDemerazikmountain,findingourfirstRed-frontedSerins,RockSparrowsandRockBunting.BackforarelaxedeveningmealwithBasarandhisfamilythentobedwithalarmssetforaridiculoushour.
23rdMay.Alarmssetfor03.15andwetrundledupDemerkazikMountaininrelaysof3inanoldoil-burningLadaRiva.At2150metresthetemperaturewasanotunpleasant6degreesandjustafterdawnwefoundourfirstCaspianSnowcocks.Upto11wereseenastheyputonagreatdisplay,sometimesascloseas200m.
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Above:CaspianSnowcock,Demerkazik
Above:Red-frontedSerin,DemerazikGorge(photographcourtesyofPeteWorthy)
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ThesupportingcastincludedRed-frontedSerins,SnowfinchesandAlpineAccentorswithagroupofIbexclimbingnimblyonthenearverticalcragsabovebutRadde’sAccentorremainedelusive.Wewereassuredtheywouldbefoundonthedescentdownthegorgebutnosignofthemtoday-thisbirdwastobecomeaproblemlaterinthetrip!Infactwesawverylittleduringthedescentofthegorge,whichisnarrow,steep-sidedandalittlehands-oninplaces.Withhindsightwewouldprobablyhavehadbetterbirdingbywalkingbackdownthedriveabletrack.WereturnedtoOzSafakPensionforalatebreakfastthenoutagainondirtroadsaroundCukurbagseekingCrimson-wingedFinchesandWhite-throatedRobins.ThemanyBlack-earedWheatearshereincludedasmallnumberofFinsch’sWheatears.
Above:DemerkazikGorgeentrance
Above:DescentofDemerkazikGorge(it’snotalllikethis!)
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Above:White-throatedRobin,Cukurbag(photographcourtesyofPeteWorthy)
Above:Black-earedWheatear(photographcourtesyofPeteWorthy)
WeeventuallydepartedOzSafakat16.10foraquitelongdriveeasttotheendofthemotorwayatGaziantep.Despitedecentsignagewehadgreatdifficultyfindingourpreferredaccommodation,‘TheTouristInformationCentre’atIslikisohadtobacktrackandendedupatahotelinGaziantep.(N.B.OthergroupshavealsorecentlyfailedtofindthisaccommodationinIsikli).24thMay.AnotherearlystartandweweresooninsuperbhabitatjustoffthenewquarryroadatDurnalik.ThisroadrunsparalleltothevalleyasshowninGosney’sguideandgiveseasieraccess.ItwasanexcellentareaforbothWesternandEasternRockNuthatches.Upcher’sWarblers,Black-headedandCinereousBuntingswerereasonablyplentifulandwefoundbothSyrianWoodpeckerandEasternOrpheanWarblernesting.AChukarwanderedbybutPaleRockSparrowsdidn’tshow.
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Above:EasternRockNuthatch(photographcourtesyofPeteWorthy)
Above:CinereousBunting,Durnalik
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Above:Black-headedBunting,Durnalik
WecontinuedthesearchforPaleRockSparrowandeventuallyturneddownatrackonthelefthandsidejustafterasmallquarryontheapproachroadtothemainquarry.ThisprovedsuccessfulwithPaleRockSparrow,RufousBushChatandBimaculatedLarkalladdedtothegrowinglist.BackinIsiklivillageweboughtprovisionsbutdidn’tnotice‘TheTouristInformationCentre’evenindaylight.Weparkeddownbythesideofthevillagestoresandwalkedupanobviousvalley.Herewefoundourtarget,therecentlysplitKurdish(Red-tailed)WheatearOenanthexanthopryma,afamilypartynoless,withbothparentsfeeding2juveniles.WealsofoundaCardinalhere,Europe’slargestfritillaryandoneoftheeasierbutterfliestoidentify.
Above:Cardinal,Isikli
MidafternoonwecalledbacktoGazianteptopickupluggagethensetoutfortheshort50minutehoptoBireciktocheckinattheMerkalimMotelbythebridgeovertheEuphrates.WeexchangedinformationherewithotherbirdersthenimmediatelywentouttothenearbyGravelWorkslagoonsonthenorthwestbankforanexcellentcoupleofhoursbirding.ThelistherewaslongbutgoodiesincludedmanySquaccoHerons,LittleBitternsandPygmyCormorants,apartyofBaldIbisfromthenearbybreedingprogramme,ouronlyMoustachedWarblersofthetrip,PiedKingfishers,DeadSeaSparrowsandlastbutnotleast4IraqBabblers,rightontheedgeoftheirrestrictedrange.
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Above:GravelWorksLagoons,Birecik
Above:BaldIbis,Birecik
Above:PygmyCormorants,Birecik(photographcourtesyofPeteWorthy)
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TherewasstilltimetodriveovertheEuphratesBridgetovisitthefamousGulhameTeaGardens.Itwasobvioustothestaffwewerebirdersbutbesttoplayitcoolhereandfirstordersometea.EventuallyoneofthewaiterspointedupanearbytreeandtherewasaPale(Bruce’s)ScopsOwlinfullview.Althoughthelightwasfadingthiswasagoodtimetowatchasitrouseditselffromdaytimeroostingandfinallyflewat19.42.SowereturnedtothenoisyMerkalimMotel,whichisalsoatrucker’scaféandlorry/coachstop.Thenightwaspunctuatedbyloudmusicandtannoymessagesplus,forsomebizarrereason,someonemovingfurnitureontheflooraboveallnightlong.
Above:PaleScopsOwl,Birecik
25thMay.Aswecouldn’tsleepwewereoutearlyandwalkeduptheBaldIbisCentrewadi.HereweeasilyfoundMenetries’WarblerbutittookquiteawhiletoflushaSee-seePartridgethathadcomedowntodrink.Abetteroptionwastotakeoneofthetrackstothetopofthewadiandscanthegrassyplateaus.HerewefoundanotherSee-seesingingfromadistantrockyperch.Duringlastnight’sexchangeofinformationwehadbeentippedoffwheretolookforYellow-throatedSparrow(Chestnut-wingedPetronia).WehadnoluckonourvisitbuttherewascompensationintheformofapassingLesser-spottedEaglewithanestingcolonyofLittleSwiftsonthecliffsinBirecik.WehadafullbreakfastatMerkalimcafétheneasilyfoundYellow-throatedSparrowatanothersitedownbyanOtopetrolstation(2ndrightturnnorthofIbiscentre).
Right:See-seePartridgehabitat
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Above:Yellow-throatedSparrow(Chestnut-wingedPetronia),Birecik
Itwasgettinghotso,drivingthroughextensivepistachiogroves,wehadachill-outlunchbreak40kmtothenorthatthepicturesqueEskiHalfetiwheremanysmallvillagesweresubmergedafterthedammingoftheEuphrates.ThenbacktoBireciktotryourluckonthesoutheastsideoftheriver.MuchthesamebirdshereaslastnightwiththeadditionofafamilypartyofFerruginousDucksandamaleGarganey.TwoYellow-throatedSparrows,awayfromthepistachiofields,wereasurprisehere.AnicerelaxingmealonthebanksoftheEuphratescappedasplendidday.AsecondnightattheMerkalimMotel-andtheywerestillmovingthefurniturearoundupstairsintothesmallhours!!
Above:Transportingpistachios,Birecik
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Above:EskiHalfeti
Above:EveningbyRiverEuphrates,Birecik
27thMay.Itwastobealongdrivingdaytodaybutfirstsutlacandcoffeeatthemotel.Wewereontheroadfor06.15anddroveeastthroughalmostcontinuousroadconstructionworkasthemotorwaywasbeingextended.MuchofthetrafficseemedtoconsistofcartransporterstakingnewcarstoCizrethenintoIraq.WepassedthetownsofSanliurfa,ViransehirandKaziltepethendrovealongsidetheSyrianborderforawhilebeforeturningnortheasttoIdilreservoir.ThespecialityhereisRed-wattledLapwingatoneofitsveryfewbreedingsitesintheWesternPalearctic.Anyfuturevisitorsarerecommendedtowalkanti-clockwiseroundtheperimeterofthereservoirtoreachthefirstinlet,hotworkasthetemperaturehadrisento33degrees.HerewefoundaRed-wattledLapwingapparentlydefendingterritoryand,astherewasprobablyafemaleonanestnearby,wesoonleftthebirdsinpeace.TherewereanassortmentofcommonerwadersaroundthereservoirplussinglesofRed-crestedPochardandSlender-billedGullandayoung,unidentifiedrodent,possiblyaJird(Gerbil).
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Above:Red-wattledLapwing,Idil
Above:Unidentifiedrodent,Idil
MosttripreportsadviseagainstthedirectroutenorthfromIdilasthisareahasaheavymilitarypresencewithlotsoftimeconsumingcheck-points.InsteadwechoseamorecircuitousrouteviaMidyat,BatmanandSiirtbutwewerestillmovedonbythepolicewhilstattemptingaroadsidefoodstopontheD380,apparentlyweweretooclosetoahilltoplisteningpost.EventuallywereachedthehistorictownofBitlisataround20.00afteralongdrivingdayof698km/436miles.
27thMay.Wetookapre-breakfastwalkaroundBitlisunderimposingcastlewallsthen,afterbreakfast,drovetheshortdistanceof20kmtoNemrutDagiCraternearTatvan.FirstwebirdedthelowerfieldswherelarksaboundedandaSpur-thighedTortoisecrawledacrosstheroad,thenwefoundourwayuptothecraterrim.
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Above:Spur-thighedTortoise,LarkFields,NemrutDagi
Justbeforethecraterrimalarge,rapidlymeltingbankofsnowwaswashingthroughthetracksoweparkedandwalkedupatrailtowardsMountNemrutsummit.Here,asadvisedin‘Gosney’,wescannedtheclifffacesandscreeslopesbelowbutnosignofRadde’sAccentor,althoughwedidseemanyAlpineAccentors,SnowfinchesandShorelarks.Analternativeapproachwasrequiredsowemanagedtodrivepastthesnowmeltandintothecrateritself,abeautifulsettingwithanazurebluemirrorlakewhichholdsabreedingpopulationofVelvetScoter.Wethendrovedownasmallersidetracktoplaceourselvesunderneaththesamecliffsandscreeslopes,amuchmorelikelyhabitatwithscatteredscrub.HereaRadde’sAccentoreventuallyshoweditselftooneteammemberonlyandtheresthadtomakedowiththesupportingcastofWoodlarks,RockThrushesandOrtolanBuntings.Forthefirsttimeweweregettingbehindourplannedscheduleandthiswasn’thelpedbygettingthevehiclestuckontryingtore-negotiatethesnowmelt.IntheenditwasapassinggroupofKurdsthatgotusoutafteraconversationthatdidn’tgetmuchfurtherthan“ManchesterUnited”,“NewcastleUnited”,“Galatasaray”,“Besiktas”.
Above:InsideNemrutDagiCrater
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Above:OK!NemrutDagi
Above:Stuck!NemrutDagi
WefinallyleftNemrutDagiat15.30todrivethroughTatvanalongthesouthshoresofthevastLakeVan.HerewesawourfirstArmenianGullsandRuddyShelducksandeventuallyweheadedforVan,themaintowninthearea.However,pricesinVanseemedmuchhigherthanour2009editionofTheRoughguidesuggestedandoverallwehadabadtimehere.Wegotlostforoveranhourintrafficfrenzy,failedtofindadecentpricedhotelandnearlyknockedoverasuicidalpedestrian.Vanmusthavelotstoofferbutwedidn’tliketheplaceandsoretracedourroutebacktoEdremitandfoundanicehotelontheshoresofLakeVanclosetoEdremitMarshes.
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28thMay.SomeofthegroupwokeearlyandvisitedEdremitMarshesbeforebreakfast.HerewefoundmoreArmenianGullsandacoupleofpairsofWhite-headedDuck.AfterbreakfastwedrovepastVanHillsinordertoreachLakeErcek.VanHillsisonesiteforGrey-neckedBuntingbut,afterstudyingvarioustripreports,itappearedthattheycouldbequitedifficulttolocate.Givenourconstraintsontime,andthefactthatIshakPashaseemedamuchmorereliablesite,wedecidedtogiveVanHillsamiss.LakeErcekisasalinelakewithdifficultaccessbut,bydrivingdownatrackjustnorthofErcekvillage,weendedupatadeadendinafarmyard.Thebemusedfarmerandhisfamilywereveryaccommodatinghoweverandwehadadequateiffairlydistantviewsofthelake.CloseenoughtoseeRuddyandCommonShelducks,Black-wingedStiltsandVelvetScotersonthelake,whilstthefarmheldBlack-headedWagtails(ssp.feldegg)andIsabellineWheatears.AroadsidemarshoppositethelakeheldmoreWhite-headedDucksandthenearbyfieldshostedlargeflocksofRose-colouredStarlingswithmalesdisplayingonwiresabove.Continuingourrouteanti-clockwisearoundLakeVanwereachedBendimaheMarsheswherewehadcloserviewsofArmenianGullandRuddyShelduckandasmallgroupofbrightplumagedfemaleRed-neckedPhalaropes.NearBendimaheRiver,downatracktowardsabluewatchtower,wefoundLesserShort-toedLarksdisplaying.
Above:Black-headedWagtail,LakeErcek
Above:IntroducingaKurdishfarmertobirding(LakeErcekinbackground)
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Above:Rose-colouredStarlingdisplay,LakeErcek
Above:MaleRuddyShelduck,BendimaheMarsh
Above:AdultArmenianGull,LakeVan
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TimetogoandpassingaroadsignforIran,wemadeanothercoffee/sutlacstopinCaldiran.Itwasonlyashorthopfromheretothe‘lunarlandscape’lavafieldsatSerpmetas,avastareaofjagged,brokenlavawithmanylargecracksandfissurestobenegotiated.Afteraseriesofsunny,blueskydaystheweatherhereturnedcloudyandwindywithslightdrizzle.Theterrainwasverydifficultunderfootandthis,togetherwiththepoorweather,hamperedoursearchforthetargetbird,MongolianFinch.WegaveitagoodgoandfoundTawnyPipit,SnowfinchandCrimson-wingedFinchbeforewewerespottedbythemilitary(fromawellcamouflagedlava-builtshelter)andweremovedon.WewerenottoodespondentbecauseinformationgleanedinBireciksuggestedMongolianFincheswereeasyatIshakPasha(Ha!)
Above:Theankle-breakinglavafieldsatSerpmetas
Innearbyfloodedfieldswewitnessedamagnificentgroupofc40White-wingedBlackTernsfishingaccompaniedbyasingleGull-billedTern.Onward,andaswecamewithinafewkilometresoftheIranianborderwethoughtcheckpointsecuritymightbetighterbutwewerewavedthroughinfriendlyfashion.AtthesummitofTendurekGecidi(2644m,8725ft)wepassedthroughanotherlavafield‘lunarlandscape’and,everhopeful,stoppedforanothersearch.ThistimeweweresuccessfulbutnotwithMongolianFinch.NolessthantwopairsofRadde’sAccentorsdecidedtogivethemselvesupandweweretreatedtopointblankviewsofonepairrepeatedlycarryingfoodfortheiryoungintoanestsite.
DroppingdownthepasswecametoourclosestapproachtoIranandweretreatedtostunningviewsofMountArarat,Turkey’shighestmountain(5165m,16786ft)beforepassingthroughDogubayazitandontoIshakPashaPalace.
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Above:RoutetoIran
Beforewereachedthepalacehowever,wescreechedtoastopattheshoutof‘largeraptor’andweresoon‘scopingapairofLammergeierscirclingthecrags.HavingsecuredouraccommodationatMuratCampingandHotel,nomorethan200mbelowthepalace,wequicklyturnedourthoughtsagaintoMongolianFinch.AbirderatBirecikhadtoldusexactlywherehehadfoundthemonlytwodayspreviously.WehitthespotandsoondiscoveredourpredictionthatGrey-neckedBuntingswereeasyhere,wasaccurate.Another(orsame)coupleofLammergeierscameintoroostasdidapartyofRed-frontedSerinsattheuppercarpark,butnoMongolianFinchesyetagain.Twochancesdownandonlyonemorechancetomorrowmorning!
29thMay.IshakPashaPalaceisinastunninglybeautifullocationperchedonaremotemountaintop.Wewereupearlyyetagainbuttheweatherwasn’thelping-cloudy,rainyandcool.OutontothescreeslopesabovethepalaceandbelowtheLammergeiercragsbutthegoingwasdifficultandwecameawayemptyhanded.Grey-neckedBuntingswereeasyenoughwithatleast4individualsplusasimilarnumberofOrtolanBuntings,afamilypartyofIsabellineWheatearsand2-4TwiteoftheAsiaticformssp.brevirostris(apotentialsplit).ApartyofItalianbirdershadsearchedthesesameslopesallofthepreviousdayforMongolianFinchwithoutsuccess.Itwasn’tlookinggood!BacktoMuratCampingforbreakfast,toregroupanddryoffthenoutagaintothesameslopes,whichmostreportsmentionarethelikeliestplaceforthesebirds,forourfourthandfinalsearch.Theweatherwasimprovingwhen,atlast,3ofuswereaffordedgood,closeflightviewsofasinglemaleMongolianFinch,quitearelief!ThiswasaSaturdayandlocalswereoutinforcesonosurprise,aswenearedthepalace,tobeinvitedtojoinalargegroupofKurdsforteaandcherries-excellentcraicwithhardlyawordofacommonlanguage!
Above:IshakPashaPalace
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Above:OrtolanBunting,IshakPasha
Above:ThesearchforMongolianFinch.(Screeslopesonrighthandside)
Weeventuallymovedonat12.30and,aswehadtomakethePonticAlpsbyevening,thiswasinourpre-touritineraryasour2nddedicateddrivingday.Theroadswerenotasgoodaswehopedwithmuchre-constructionworkgoingon(thiswasarecurringthemethroughoutourtourwithhugere-developmentofroadseverywhere).PassingthroughAgriandEleskirtwecrossedSacGecide(2200m)andamidafternooncoffee/sutlacstopgaveusacallingQuail.By-passingErzurumweeventuallyreachedGelinkayavillageinthelateafternoon.GelinkayaisapleasantspotwithriversidemeadowsfullofOrchids.MountainChiffchaffswereeasilyfoundsingingtheirrapid-firesongandCetti’sWarblersabounded,butwecouldn’tlocateaSemi-collaredFlycatcheranywhere.
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Above:Gelinkayaorchidmeadows
WeeventuallytoreourselvesawayfromGelinkayaandcrossedAgziacikGecidi(2300m,7260ft)beforereachingIspirasdarknessfell.Wehadadecisiontomakenow,stayinIspirorpushonoveranevenhigherpass,OvitdagiGecidi,tothepreferredHotelGenesisnearSivrikaya.Wechosethelatter.DetailsoftheexactlocationofHotelGenesisaregiveninthepreamblebutsufficeittosaythatwhenweeventuallyarriveditwasclosedtill1stJune.WewereadvisedtotrytheHotelRidos,21kfurthernorthnearIsikdere.Thisisagreathotelbutquiteexpensive.Wedidn’tcareasitwasalatecheck-inandwehaddriven612km/382milesintheday.
30thMay.OutearlywithapackedbreakfastandbacktoSivrikaya.Weparkedup2kmsouthofthevillageandalmostimmediatelyfound2CaucasianGrouse,apairstandingoutprominentlyastheyfedonthesnowpatchesandamongstRhododendronscrub.Theviewswerefairlydistant,notdissimilarto‘scopingtheBlackGrouselekatWorld’sEndforthosewhohavebeenthere.Later,thispairwasjoinedby2moremalesandaterritorialdisputeensued,withmuchposturing.MeanwhileWaterPipitssong-flightedjustbehindus,thesunshoneandthescenerywasbreathtaking.
Above:SearchingforCaucasianGrouse,Sivrikaya
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Weslowlyre-crossedOvitdagiGecidi(2600m,8581ft)whereapairofAlpineAccentorsfedandthenslowlybirdedourwaydowntoIspir.ContinuingoursearchforSemi-collaredFlycatcherwedrovedowntheRiverCoruhvalley,withyetmoreextensiveroadworks.ThebirdingwaspleasantenoughwithloadsofMarshWarblers,MountainsChiffchaffs,SyrianWoodpeckersandevenBrownBeartracksinthemud-butnoSemi-collaredFly.
Above:Black-veinedWhites,CoruhValley
Havingfailedontheflycatcherwehadonelasttarget,GreenWarbler,eitherasub-speciesofGreenishWarblerorafullspeciesaccordingtochoiceofyourtaxonomy.ThewoodlandbehindHotelGenesiswasadependablesitebutduringourlateafternoonvisitweheardnothing.WedidpickupacoupleofinterestingsongsphrasesbytheroadsideafewkilometrestothenorthofHotelGenesisbutproceedingswerebroughttoabruptendwhenabrain-deadmotoristletoff10roundsofpistolshotashepassedusinhiscar.So,wereturnedtotheHotelRidosforsomeforluxuriousgluttony.
31stMay.AnearlyreturntoHotelGenesisandthistimenomistakes.AGreenWarblerwasquicklyfoundsingingitsdistinctivesongfromthetopofaconifer,arepetitiveandringing“tee-ter-er,tee-ter-er,tee-ter-er,tee-o”.Oncelearntweheardotherbirdsinthenearvicinity.VisuallyitwassobrightgreenandyellowitresembledasmallWoodWarbler,surelythesplittersarerightthistime?Thecorrecttrackiseasilyfound50mnorthofHotelGenesisontheeastsideoftheroad.
Above:BeginningoftheGreenWarblertracknearHotelGenesis
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WethentriedSivrikayaagainandfoundasingingCommonRosefinchbutnogrouseonthisoccasioninaverybriefscan.WedepartedIsikdereat10.15passingaSteppeBuzzard(sspvulpinus)andmadeourwaynorththroughextensiveteaplantationstohittheBlackSeacoastnearRize.Unusuallywenowhadtimeonourhandsand,aftergrillingGulls(Yellow-leggedandCaspian)ontheBlackSea,wepassedthroughTrabzonandthentravelledashortdistancesouthtoSumelaMonastery.
Above:AdultYellow-leggedGulls,BlackSea
Above:1stSummerCaspianGull,BlackSea
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Above:2ndSummerCaspianGull,BlackSea
NotonlyisSumelaMonasteryagoodbirdingsitebutthe13thcenturybuilding,perchedhalfwayupacliff,iswellworthalookinitsownright.ItisashameabouttheTurkish,Greek,Russian,AmericanandEnglishgraffitithatdefacetheancientwallpaintings.AsTheRoughGuidesays,“provingthatidiocyisinternational”.Hereweeasilyfoundatleast6GreenWarblersgivingclassictri-syllabiccalls(tiu-u-ee)andouronlyBlackcap.
Above:SumelaMonastery
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Above:SumelaMonastery
AllthatremainedwastoreturnourhirecartoTrabzonairportandarrangetheshort,early-hourstaxitransferfromourhotel.
1stJune.FlightsfromTrabzon(06.00)andIstanbul(10.40)wereontimeanduneventfulandwewerebackintheUKat12.00localtime.
LASTTHOUGHTS
Wepackedanawfullotintoour10dayscarhirebutwithaone-waydropoffandacoupleoflongdrivingdaysthisrouteisperfectlyfeasible.Indeedwehardlydidanynightdrivingand,althoughwealwaysgotupearlywhennecessaryandbirdedtilldusk,thetriptookonafairlyrelaxedholidayatmosphereattimes.ThepeoplewemetinTurkeyreallycouldn’thavebeenfriendlierandanypre-tourconcernsregardingourproximitytosensitiveborders,militarycheckpoints,PKKandevensheepdogsallappearedworseonpaperthanontheground.
Wefoundallofourtargets(exceptSemi-collaredFlycatcher)andenjoyedsomeexceptionalbirding,seeingatotalofover200species.
Someacknowledgementsareappropriate.ChrisWorthyprovidedsomeexcellentphotographs.TonyArmstrongputtogetheradifficultitinerary,whichseemedalmostimpossibleattimesandalsobookedaccommodationatDemerkazikandAdana.DougSmithbookedthehotelinIstanbulandtheflights.Isourcedandbookedtheone-waycarhirewithAviswhenthetripwasofthebrinkofcancellationthroughlackofsuitabletransport.Lastbutnotleast,Tony,DougandNeildrovelongmileswithgreatpatienceandaccomplishment.WehadasuperbtripandthoroughlyrecommendEasternTurkeyasabirdingdestination.
JohnRayner,June2010
www.manchesterbirding.com
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SYSTEMATICLIST
LittleGrebe:TachybaptusruficollisGravelWorkslagoons,Birecik(4),Euphrates,Birecik(1),roadsidemarsh,LakeErcek(3),
GreatCrestedGrebe:PodicepscristatusLakeVan,Bendimahe(8)
Black-neckedGrebe:PodicepsnigricollisLakeVan,Bendimahe(2)
YelkouanShearwater:PuffinusyelkouanIstanbul,many100smostlymovingfromBlackSeaanddowntheBosphorus
WhitePelican:PelecanusonocrotalusGoksuDelta(2)onlyindistancethroughheathaze
GreatCormorant:PhalacrocoraxcarboIstanbul,afewaroundBosphorus.NearRize,scatteredalongBlackSeacoast.
EuropeanShag:PhalacrocoraxaristotelisIstanbul,GalataBridge(ssp.desmarestii)
PygmyCormorant:PhalacrocoraxpygmaeusBirecik,GravelworkslagoonsandontheEuphrates(groupsofupto40)
GreyHeron:Ardeacinerea4atIstanbuland1atIdilreservoir
LittleEgret:EgrettagarzettaSinglesatHalfetiandLakeVan.ScatteredaroundBirecikarea(6)
SquaccoHeron:ArdeolaralloidesBirecik(c20daily)thecommonestheronhere
Black-crownedNight-Heron:NycticoraxnycticoraxBirecik,upto10noteddailyhere
LittleBittern:IxobrychusminutusBirecik,maxof6daily
WhiteStork:CiconiaciconiaDemirkazik,c80movingnorthat6pmabovevillageofYeltavanthen8on26th.SmallnumbersofbirdsnestingonpylonseastofSanliurfa
BaldIbis(Waldrapp):GeronticuseremitaBirecik,6feedingatGravelWorkslagoonson24thwith9-15presenton25th.Fromthereleaseprogramme.
RuddyShelduck:Tadornaferruginea8AtErcekGoluand2pairsonVanGolunearTatvanandBendimahe.
CommonShelduck:TadornatadornaAtleast4atErcekGoluindistanthazethenBendimahe,1pair.
Mallard:AnasplatyrhynchosAtleast3atroadsidemarsh,ErcekGolu3Gelinkyavillageweretheonlyonesseen.
Garganey:Anasquerquedula1maleatBirecikand2Bendimahe
NorthernShoveler:AnasclypeataApairatBendimaheweretheonlyonesseen.
Red-crestedPochard:NettarufinaGoksuDelta,1femalewithmanyotherunidentifiedduckindistancethroughheathaze.IdilReservoir,1male
CommonPochard:AythyaferinaAsingledrakeatEdremitMarshesandc16onroadsidemarsh,ErcekGolu
FerruginousDuck:AythyanyrocaBirecik,14includingapairwith4youngonsouth-eastbanksofEuphrates
VelvetScoter:MelanittafuscaErcekGolu,Atleast4indistanthaze
White-headedDuck:Oxyuraleucocephala2females,3drakesonEdremitMarshesandapairatroadsidemarsh,ErcekGolu
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HoneyBuzzard:PernisapivorusRumeliKavargi,apairoverhillbehindvillage.Then1atDemircili.
BlackKite:MilvusmigransErzurum,1overtheE80nearErzurumtheonlyoneoftrip
Lammergeier:Gypaetusbarbatus2adultsat17.50fromroadbelowIshakPashathen2includingajuvenilegoingtoroostonhighcragsaboveIshakPasha.
Short-toedEagle:CircaetusgallicusSerpmetas,1overlavafield
MarshHarrier:Circusaeruginosus1nearBitlisthen6/8atBendimaheand3ErcekGolu
Sparrowhawk:Accipiternisus1atDemirkaziktheonlyoneoftrip
SteppeBuzzard:Buteobuteo1atSivrikaya(ssp.vulpinus)
Long-leggedBuzzard:ButeorufinusFirst1atDemirkazikthenseenon6dateseastwardsfromherein1'sand2's.
LesserSpottedEagle:AquilapomarinaBirecik,1mobbedbyKestrelsoverpistachioorchardstonorthoftown
GoldenEagle:Aquilachrysaetos2duringwalkdowngorgeatDemirkazikand1aboveCoruhvalley,Ispir.
BootedEagle:Aquilapennatus2aboveCoruhvalley,Ispir
LesserKestrelFalconaumannii2offcliffsatIshakPahainlateafternoonsession
Kestrel:Falcotinnunculus2'sand3'sseendaily
Eleonora'sFalcon:Falcoeleonorae1overTopkapiPalacegardenson18thMaythen1overEuphratesatBirecikon24thMay
Hobby:Falcosubbuteo3callingandchasinginCoruhValley,Ispir
PeregrineFalcon:Falcoperegrinus1-3notedatDemirkazikandatIshakPasha(Sakernoteliminatedatlatter)
CaucasianGrouse:Tetraomlokosiewiczi2maleand1femalefeedingonsnowpatchesandinrhododendronscrubthen2malesdisplaying(onslopes2kmsouthofSivrikayavillage)CaspianSnowcock:TetraogalluscaspiusAt2150monDemirkazikDagic11putonquiteashowfrom05.30-07.30.Callingandposingforphotographsat200mclosest.
Chukar:AlectorischukarDurnalik(c4),IshakPasha(2)
See-seePartridge:Ammoperdixgriseogularis1flushedfromthewadinearIbisCentre,Birecik,then1percheddistantlycallingfrompileofstonesonplateauabove,othersheard
BlackFrancolin:Francolinusfrancolinus1malesingingfromtopofbushatGoksuDelta
Quail:Coturnixcoturnix1heardatroadsidestopinhighplateauareaenroutetoErzurum
Moorhen:GallinulachloropusGravelworkslagoons,Birecik(c6)andBendimahe(1)
Coot:FulicaatraGravelworkslagoonsandSEbanksofEuphrates,Birecik(flocksofc40)
Oystercatcher:HaematopusostralegusAsingletononlyatBendimahe
Black-wingedStilt:Himantopushimantopus12atIdilReservoir,2onroadsidepool,Idilthenc20atErcekGoluandBendimahe
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Avocet:RecurvirostraavosettaOnlyatBendimahe(2)
NorthernLapwing:Vanellusvanellusc4pairsbreedingatEdremitMarshesthen1on29thatroadsidestop
Red-wattledLapwing:Vanellusindicus1birdholdingterritoryatIdilreservoirwithvocaldistractionflightsuggestinganothersittingnearby
RingedPlover:CharadriushiaticulaIdilReservoir(4)
LittleRingedPlover:CharadriusdubiusAtleast2pairsnestingonbeachatEdremitMarshes.
Redshank:TringatetanusAtotalofc10(breeding)atEdremitMarshes.
Greenshank:TringanebulariaHeardonlyatIdilReservoirwhilstourattentionwaselsewheresearchingforRed-wattledLapwing.
GreenSandpiper:TringaochropusIdilReservoir,(6)
WoodSandpiper:TringaglareolaIdilReservoir(7)
CommonSandpiper:ActitishypoleucosIdilReservoir(2)then1onBlackSeacoast.
Ruff:PhilomachuspugnaxIdilReservoir(5),Bendimahe(1),BlackSeacoast(1).
Red-neckedPhalarope:Phalaropuslobatus3seenfromroadonedgeofmarshatBendimahe
Yellow-leggedGull:LarusmichahellisIstanbul,commonaroundBosphorous.AlsonotedonbothMediterraneanandBlackSeacoasts.
CaspianGull:Laruscachinnansc20alongBlackSeacoastbut100'sofdistantgullswentunidentified
ArmenianGull:Larusarmenicus100+dailyaroundVanGoluwithsmallernumbersroadsideon29th
Black-headedGull:LarusridibundusIdilReservoir(1)andBendimahe(4)
Slender-billedGull:LarusgeneiIdilReservoir(1)andBendimahe(3/4)
Gull-billedTern:GelochelidonniloticaGravelworkslagoons,Birecik(3)andonfloodedmeadowsonapproachtolavafields,Serpmetas(1)
CommonTern:SternahirundoOnEuphratesatEskiHalfeti(16)thenIdilReservoir(5)
LittleTern:SternulaalbifronsIdilReservoir,2herewereasurprise
WhiskeredTern:Chlidoniashybrida2overroadsidepoolsseenfromE80nearAgri
White-wingedBlackTern:Chlidoniasleucopterusc40overfloodedriverN.ofCaldiranonapproachtolavafields.
RockDove:ColumbaliviaThegenuinearticleplentifulonwalkdownDemerkazikgorge,withferalbirdseveryday.
WoodPigeon:Columbapalumbus8atBendimaheweretheonlybirdsofthetrip.
TurtleDove:Streptopeliaturtur6inorchardthenontrackatDurnalik
Collared-Dove:StreptopeliadecaoctoSmallnumbersinIstanbulandthendailyfromBireciktoTatvan.Probablyoverlookedelsewhere
LaughingDove:StreptopeliasenegalensisIstanbul,c20aroundcity,c10enrouteAdana-GoksuDelta,2or3aroundOzSafakPension,Demirkazik,c8aroundBirecikandsmallnumbersaroundVanGolu.
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AlexandrineParakeet:PsittaculaeupatriaSeveralpairsnotedaroundTopkapiandGulhanePark,Istanbulon18thbutonly1atTopkapion21st.
Ring-neckedParakeet:Psittaculakrameric6aroundTopkapiPalace
Cuckoo:CuculuscanorusHeardduringwalkdownDemirkazikGorge,NemrutDagiandIshakPasha(wherecallsresonatingaroundvalley).Upto3seenatIshakPashaincludingarufousmorphfemale.
PaleScopsOwl:Otusbrucei1infullviewatGulhameTeaGardens,Birecik.
LittleOwl:Athenenoctua2enrouteinlateafternoonatZilyaretenroutetoBitlis
Nightjar:Caprimulguseuropaeus1huntingmothsinthelightsatAdanaAirport
AlpineSwift:TachymarptismelbaLownumbergatheringsnotedatduskinIstanbulandthereafteron8dateswithamaximumofc40nestingincliffsatIshakPasha
CommonSwift:ApusapusNotedeverydaywithamaximumofc150circlingBitlisCastle.
LittleSwift:ApusaffinisAsmallnestingcolonyofc20oncliffsneartoBaldIbiscentre.OneofthefewcoloniesinTurkey
PiedKingfisher:CerylerudisGravelworkslagoons(3)andontheEuphrates,Birecik
Bee-eater:MeropsapiasterAsmallbreedingcolonyinnorth-westgravelworks,Birecikthen1-4noteddailyineast.
Roller:CoraciasgarrulousScatteredsightingsaroundBirecikarea(upto8here)then2onpylonson29thatroadsidepicnicstop.
Hoopoe:UpupaepopsFirstatCukurbagthen1-4dailythereafter.
LesserSpottedWoodpecker:Dendrocoposminor2aroundDemirciligraveyard
SyrianWoodpecker:Dendrocopossyriacus1flewacrossroadinlowervalleynearDemirkazikvillage.Apairatnesthole,Durnalikand3,including2malesindispute,Coruhvalley,Ispir.
GreenWoodpecker:PicusviridisHeardnearGelinkyavillageand1seenCoruhValley,Ispir.
CalandraLark:Melanocoryphacalandra1atBendimahetheonlysighting.
BimaculatedLark:Melanocoryphabimaculata1ontheLHStrackoffquarryroad,Durnalik.8ongrassyfieldsbelowvolcano,NemrutDagi,(someinsongflight).1-2ErcekGolu.
Short-toedLark:Calandrellabrachydactylac12onfieldsoutsideCukurbagvillageappearedtobethenominatespeciesandc8ingrasslandbelowNemrutDagivolcano(insongflighthere).
LesserShort-toedLark:CalandrellarufescensAtleast5indryfieldsnearBendimahevillageincludedmalesbothinsongflightanddisplayontheground,femalesunimpressed!
CrestedLark:GaleridacristataWidespreadfromGoksuDelta(c20)toandIdilReservoir(c30)butnotrecordedafter27thMay.
Woodlark:LullulaarboreaNemrutDagi(3)bytracksinsidecraterthenasinglenotedIshakPasha
Skylark:Alaudaarvensisc3insongflightoverfieldsbeforelavafields,Serpemetas
HornedLark:EremophilaalpestrisSsp.penicillatawidespreadinmountainse.g.Demirkazik(8)alongtrackabovefootballpitch.NemrutDagi(15)ontracktosummit.TendurekGecidi,smallnumbers.
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SandMartin:RipariaripariaNumerous,widespreadandrecordedalmostdailythroughtoPonticmountainse.g.GoksuDelta(c20),GravelWorkslagoons,Birecik(c100)andahugenestingcolony(100s)onapproachroadtolavafields,Serpmetas
CragMartin:PtyonoprognerupestrisFairlycommoninsuitablemountainhabitatandnotedon6dates
BarnSwallow:HirundorusticaNoteddailyfromIstanbulthroughtotheBlackSea
Coast
Red-rumpedSwallow:CecropisdauricaGoksuDelta(c10),Durnalikarea(2)andEskiHalfeti(4)weretheonlyrecords
HouseMartin:DelichonurbicumFirstinIstanbulandthereafterseenon5dates.BestcountwasatSumelaMonastery(c40)
WhiteWagtail:MotacillaalbaWidespreadandcommon
YellowWagtail:MotacillaflavaWidespreadwithsomestunning‘Black-headedWagtails’ssp.feldeggnoted,especiallyinVanarea.
GreyWagtail:Motacillacinerea1NearBitlismosque,1inIspircentreand1inlowervalleybelowSumelaMonastery.
TawnyPipit:AnthuscampestrisSmallnumbersatlavafields(4),Serpmetas,NemrutDagi(c10)andBendimahe(1).
WaterPipit:Anthusspinoletta.ManyinsongflightalongOvitdagiGecidibutnotnotedanywhereelse.
White-spectacledBulbul:Pycnonotusxanthopygos2satDermiciligraveyardarea,DurnalikandBirecik.
Goldcrest:RegulusregulusAsingletonatHotelGenesiswoodland,Sivrikaya,othersheardhereandSumelaMonastery.
Dipper:Cincluscinclus1or2on30thand31stMayonapproachroadtoHotelRidos,Isikdere.
Wren:Troglodytestroglodytes 4onwalkdownDemirkazikgorgeandthenheardelsewheree.g.inSivrikayaandSumelaMonasteryareas.
AlpineAccentor:PrunellacollarisDemirkazik(Aminimumof3),NemrutDagi(8)oncragsbelowtracktosummit,Sivrikaya(2)atOvitdagisummit.
Radde'sAccentor:Prunellaocularis1atfootofscreeinNemrutDagicraterthen4onlavafieldsatTendurekGecedisummitenroutetoDogubayazitincludingapaircarryingfoodforyoung.Wefoundthistobeaskulkerandeasilymissed.
RockThrush:MonticolasaxatilisNemrutDagi,1singingontracktosummitandanotherinsidecrater.Atleast3onTendurekGecidilavafields.
BlueRockThrush:Monticolasolitarius13Individualson6daysinthemountainsincludedc4atDemerkazik.
RingOuzel:Turdustorquatus2heard‘chacking’inNemrutDagicraterledtothediscoveryofourfirstRadde’sAccentor.
Blackbird:TurdusmerulaNotedon5daysbutmostprominentinPonticAlps
SongThrush:Turdusphilomelos1seenbrieflyatHotelGenesis,othersheard
ZittingCisticola:CisticolajuncidisCommonatGoksuDeltaandBirecik(c10eachsite)
GracefulPrinia:PriniagracilisGoksuDeltac8singing,BirecikGravelworkslagoons(c12,fairlycommon).
Cetti'sWarbler:CettiacettiHeardon6datesinawiderangeofaltitudesandparticularlyplentifulatGelinkaya,butonlyseenatBirecik
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MoustachedWarbler:AcrocephalusmelanopogonSinglesatBirecikonbothdaysatGravelWorkslagoons.
ReedWarbler:Acrocephalusscirpaceusc10atBirecikonbothdaysatGravelWorkslagoons(ssp.fuscus)
MarshWarbler:Acrocephaluspalustris2seenandmoreheardalongCoruhRivervalley,Ispir.
GreatReedWarbler:AcrocephalusarundinaceusGravelworkslagoonsBirecik,(3seen,manymoreheard)1mobbedby2ReedWarblershere.AlsoEdremitMarshes(c6).
EasternOlivaceousWarbler:HippolaispallidaLownumbersrecordedatGoksuDelta,Cukurbag,BirecikandCoruhValley,Ispir(e.g.3alongRiverCoruhvalleybutmoreheard)
Upcher'sWarbler:HippolaislanguidaRathereasyatDurnalikwithc12inthearea.
Olive-treeWarbler:HippolaisolivetorumTopkapigardensIstanbul(2),RumeliKavargi(3)andalsonotedsinginglateeveningatBirecik.Morewidespreadthan‘BirdsofTurkey’indicates.
MountainChiffchaff:PhylloscopussindianusImmediatelypickedupbydistinctivesongatGelinkyavillage(c4)andatCoruhvalley,Ispir(4),butmoreheardthanseen.
GreenWarbler:Phylloscopustrochiloidesssp.nitidus2heardnearpicnic/tuvaletareaapprox1knorthofHotelGenesis,Sivrikayaon30thMayand1atHotelGenesisnextdaysingingfromtopofconiferabovesmallstream.Arepetitiveringing"tee-ter-ertee-ter-ertee-ter-ertee-o".AlsoatSumelaMonastrywherelotsheardand6seenbotharoundmonastryandinlowervalley(callasharptri-syllabic'tiu-u-ee').Visually,similartoasmallWoodWarbler.
Blackcap:Sylviaatricapilla1inSumelaMonasterygardens.
Whitethroat:Sylviacommunis1IshakPashaby2ndcarparkabovethepalace.1Gelinkyavillage,inroadsidescrub.
LesserWhitethroat:SylviacurrucaSurprisinglycommoninDemirkazikareaandalsoaroundBirecik.
OrpheanWarbler:Sylviacrassirostris1singingloudlyontrackbeyondCukurbagvillage(byfirstbridge)andanestbuildingpairatDurnalik.
Ruppell'sWarbler:Sylviarueppellii1malenearDemirciligraveyard
Menetries'sWarbler:SylviamystaceaAminimumof9seeninwadinexttoBaldIbiscentre,Birecik.
EuropeanRobin:ErithacusrubeculaOnlyseeninwoodlandatSumelaMonastryalthoughheardelsewhereinPontics.
Nightingale:LusciniamegarhynchosGelinkyavillage,1seenbyriver.
White-throatedRobin:Iraniagutturalis2bytrackbeyondCukurbag(byfirstbridge)and2onlefthandsidetrackoffthequarryroad,Durnalik.
Rufous-tailedScrub-Robin:CercotrichasgalactotesSinglesatDurnalik,IsikliandBirecikbutnodoubtoverlookedelsewhere.Ratherwashed-outindividuals,sspsyriacus.
BlackRedstart:Phoenicurusochruros Sspochruroswithorangeredbelly.Widespreadandcommon.Notedon7dateswithamaxofc20inDemerkazikarea.
Whinchat:Saxicolarubetra1maleoutsidevillageSivrikaya.
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NorthernWheatear:OenantheoenantheSurprisinglywidespreadandcommon,notedon7dateswithmaximaof10atDemerkazikand8NemrutDagi.
Finsch'sWheatear:OenanthefinschiiDemirkazik(3)andatIsikliontrackbyvillagestore(1)
Black-earedWheatear:OenanthehispanicaSsp.melanoleucawidespread.E.g.Demircili,aroundthegraveyardarea,Cukurbag,nestingbyfirstbridge(trackbeyondCukurbagvillage),Isikli,familypartyandSerpmetas,smallnumbersatlavafields.
KurdishWheatear:OenanthexanthoprymnaAfamilypartyof4plusanotherfemaleinsidevalley(withpylons)atIsikli.Oftenregardedasaseparatespecies(splitfromRed-tailedWheatearO.chrysopygia).Wenotedmuchconfusioninlit.andtripreportswithnomenclature.
IsabellineWheatear:OenantheisabellinaQuitecommoninrighthabitatatNemrutDagiandIshakPashawithdoublefigurecountsincludingfamilyparties.
IraqBabbler:TurdoidesaltirostrisArecentcolonisttothistheonlysiteinWesternPalearctic.Upto6notedinmixedreed/shrubareasofnorth-westfloodedgravelpitsatBirecik.
SombreTit:Poecilelugubrisc4inpinewoodlandoppositeDermiciligraveyard,atleast2pairsintheDurnalikarea,2outsideIsiklivillage.
CoalTit:PeriparusaterSmallnumbersinconiferouswoodlandatHotelGenesis,SivrikayaandSumelaMonastery.
GreatTit:ParusmajorNotedatIstanbulandthenonmostdaysexceptbetweenBirecikandTatvan.
BlueTit:CyanistescaeruleusCoruhvalley,Ispir(3),RidosHotel,Isikdere(2)
Kruper’sNuthatch:Sittakrueperic4inpinewoodlandoppositeDermiciligraveyardincludingapairwithfoodenteringnestholenear‘pumphouse15'.
WesternRockNuthatch:SittaneumayerWidespread.MaximumcountintheDurnalik/Isikliarea(15-20)butalsofoundatDermekazik,NemrutDagi,TendurekGecediandIshakPasha.
EasternRockNuthatch:Sittatephronotac6intheDurnalik/Isikliarea,somecarryingfood,andalsoheardatBirecik.Verydistinctive.
GoldenOriole:OriolusoriolusTheonlybirdofthetripwasheardatEskiHalfetibytheEuphrates.
Red-backedShrike:LaniuscollurioSurprisinglyfew.1Topkapigardens,Istanbuland1Cukurbagweretheonlydefinitesightings.
MaskedShrike:Laniusnubicus1roadsideatGoksuDeltathen1on23rdfromE90.
WoodchatShrike:LaniussenatorSporadic.AconcentrationatDurnalikwith4-6seen,theonlyotherbeing1nearErcekGolu.Probablyoverlooked.
Jay:GarrulusglandariusCommoninPinewoods,Demircili(ssp.anatoliae)andinPontics(ssp.atricapillus).
Magpie:PicapicaNotedmostdaysexceptbetweenBirecikandBitlis.
Red-billedChough:Pyrrhocoraxpyrrhocorax32nearYelatanvillage,c80intheDemirkazikareaespeciallyinfieldsbeyondCukurbagandlowernumbersatIshakPasha.
Yellow-billedChough:Pyrrhocoraxgraculusc12intheareaofDemirkazikMountainandgorge.
Jackdaw:CorvusmonedulaNotedmostdays,somebirdsineastshowingmorefrostedsilveronnapeandwhiteflashesonsidesofneck,possiblyssp.soemmeringii).
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Rook:Corvusfrugilegusc20arounddumpnearNemrutDagithennotedinVanGoluareaandc80dailyinPontics.
HoodedCrow:CorvuscornixSeenindoublefigurecountsonalmosteveryday.
CommonRaven:Corvuscorax3atOvitdagiPass,Sivrikaya,(and1on31st).Overlooked.
Rose-colouredStarling:PastorroseusSeveralflockstotalingc200onapproachroadtoErcekGoluincludedsomenicedisplayingmales.
EuropeanStarling:SturnusvulgarisWidespread,notedeveryday
HouseSparrow:PasserdomesticusCommonaroundIstanbul,thenseenindoublefiguresoneveryotherday.
DeadSeaSparrow:PassermoabiticusOnlynotedinsmallnumbersatBirecik.
TreeSparrow:PassermontanusDoublefigurecountinLowerGorge,DemirkazikandDurnalikthensmallerflocksinCoruhValley,Ispir.
Yellow-throatedSparrow(Chestnut-shoulderedPetronia):Petroniaxanthocollisc6inPistachiofields,Birecik(onroadbyOtopetrolstation,northofBaldIbiscentre)and2onsouth-eastbanksofEuphrates,Birecik.
RockSparrow:PetroniapetroniaAsmallroostinlowergorge,Demirkazikwithmanyseenhereon23rdandthenprominentatDurnalik/Isikli,BirecikandIspir.
PaleRockSparrow:Carpospizabrachydactyla1ontrackbeyondquarry,Durnalikandthen2insidevalley(withpylons)atIsikli.
Snowfinch:MontifringillanivalisNumerousatDemirkazik(c25)thenNemrutDagi(6),SerpmetasLavafield(c4)andonOvitdagiGecedi.Sspleucuraismuchpaleronupperpartsthannominateform.
Chaffinch:FringillacoelebsNotedatIstanbul,Demirkazik,TatvanandSivrikaya
CommonRosefinch:CarpodacuserythrinusSivrikaya,animmaturemaleinsong.
Greenfinch:CarduelischlorisHeardonlyatSivrikaya
Goldfinch:CardueliscarduelisLownumbersnotedDemircili,ErcekGoluandIshakPasha.(Sspniediecki).
Twite:CarduelisflavirostrisIshakPasha(2)onslopesabovethepalace(AsianTwitessp.brevirostrislookingremarkablypale).
Linnet:Cardueliscannabina Demirkazik,quitecommonhere.AlsoatIsikli,NemrutDagi,SerpmetasandIshakPasha(Sspbella'TurkestanLinnet'-largerpalerwithunstreakedwhiterump.Apossiblesplit).
Red-frontedSerin:Serinuspusillus c.10atcloserangeinDemerkazikgorge,thereaftersmallernumbersseenatNemrutDagi,TendurekGecediandIshakPasha.Alittlebeauty.
Serin:Serinusserinus2outsideIsiklivillageand3inpinesatHotelGenesis
Crimson-wingedFinch:RhodopechyssanguineusAperchedsingletonemergedaslowcloudclearedonDemirkazikMagi,with3morelateronnewroadnearfootballpitch.Apairatlavafields,Serpmetas.(Thisdark-throatedformssp.sanguineusisapossiblesplitfromAtlasMountainstaxassp.alienus).
MongolianFinch:Bucanetesmongolicus1maleseenwellinflightaftermuchsearching.(AfterdippingatSerpmetasinwindyconditionsittook3moresessionsheretoconnect,hardwork).
DesertFinch:Rhodospizaobsolete2seenbrieflybyroadsideatDurnalik.
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RockBunting:EmberizaciaSinglebirdsnotedon7datesfromDemerkazik,NemrutDagi,IshakPashaandPontics.
Grey-neckedBunting:Emberizabuchanani2lateon28thMayatIshakPasha,thenc4thenextdayontheslopesabovethepalaceduringtheMongolianFinchsearch.
CinereousBunting:EmberizacineraceaGoodnumbersfoundintheDurnalikarea(c20)
OrtolanBunting:EmberizahortulanaAtNemrutDagiwithafemaleontracktothesummitwithsomesingingmalesinsidethecrater.Alsoatc6IshakPasha.
Cretzschmar'sBunting:Emberizacaesiac4atDermiciligraveyard
Black-headedBunting:EmberizamelanocephalaWidespreadwithsinglefigurecountsnotedon7dates.
ReedBunting:EmberizaschoeniclusOnly1seenatEdremitMarshes(ssp.reiseri).
CornBunting:EmberizacalandraFairlywidespreadwithsingingbirdson6dates.