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Monika BogusawskaBczek, PhDUniversity of Bielsko Biala
Faculty of Material and Environmental Sciences
Department of Design and Technology Clothing
Poland
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I.I. DDEFINITIONEFINITIONOFOF CCLOTHINGLOTHING::Clothing cover on humans body (trunk and limbs).
They fulfill two general functions:
1. Protection against damaging factors of environment, as:temperature, wind, rain, snow, harms of body.
2. Aesthetical function - satisfy of human needs which depends
on society habits and they are manifestation of their culture:
times (poque), religion,
economical and political situation
level of technology.
II.II. DDEFINITIONEFINITIONOFOF CCLOTHINGLOTHING
Clothingit is good which is making from patterns, received from
the base of anthropometric measurements of human body. In the
next patterns are connected each other by sewing or fusing to
ready to wear three-dimension garment.
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In modern time the primary rules of clothing industry isproduction of fashioned and useful clothing, which guaranty
good looking and best filling.
The clothing industry is closely to textile industry, because the
textile goods are the raw materials for garment.Together with techniques development and become new, very
interesting and original design fabrics grow up the design
and useful possibility of clothing.
The forms and shapes of garment, as well as theirproperties depend on three mayor factors:
1. The kind of raw materials
2. Technology of their making
3. Their topic and destination.
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In depends on destination the clothing fulfilled thedifferent function:
They protect against damaging factors of environment as:temperature, wind, rain, snow;
They protect against hurt;
They protect against biological, chemical, radiation andother pollution;
They make us invisible or visible in group of people orin the environmentfashionable or unfashionable garment;
They define the character of meeting - give official orunofficial forms.
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The clothing characterize a lot of different
properties, which describe and decide about
clothing functionalism to fulfill designed
function.
USEFUL PROPERTIES
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Aesthetic
Colour, designand patterns
To be fashion
Well construction
Resistance ofpilling
Resistance of
dirtying Durability of
shape
Light fastness
Washing fastness
Physiological
Airpermeability
Waterpermeability
Sorption
Thermal
insulation Breathing
Microorganisms- proof
Antistatic
Mechanical
Tensilestrength
Abrasionresisting
Dynamicstrength
Stiffness
Conservation
Kind ofcleaningprocess
Temperatureof cleaning
Time ofdrying
Sterilization
Special
Waterproof
Fireproof
Thermalinsulation
Chemicalresistant
Radiationresistant
Nice looking
Comfort of
physiological filling
Wear-resistant
Level complicationduring using
Barrier against
environment
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The art design
The materials design
The structure design
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MMICROCLIMATEICROCLIMATEOFOFCLOTHINGCLOTHING
One of the primary rule of clothing is insuranceproperly microclimate between human skin and
clothing layers.
This microclimate its cooperation between following
factors:
TEMPERATUREPRESSUREOFVAPOURMOLECULES
HUMIDITY
AIRMOTION
Value of these factors depend on:
1. How much heat produce a human body
2. How looks a heat exchange condition with
environment
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Properly microclimate between human skin and
clothing layers is:
the average temperature of skin is between 32 to 340C
the low humidity (about 30-40%)
to keep a minimum air motion (0,1m/s)
the level of carbon dioxide (CO2) containing similarly
as the atmospheric air, which we are breathingbelow0,03%.
MMICROCLIMATEICROCLIMATEOFOFCLOTHINGCLOTHING
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where:
M- heat of metabolism
Lheat looser for mechanical work
Qpheat looser for vaporization sweat (perspire)
QRheat extract or looser during radiation
QCVheat extract or looser during convection
QCheat extract or looser during conduction
QB- heat extract or looser during breathing
Qcompensation value of heat balance lackIt is function of clothingIREQ
(Index of Required Clothing Insulation)
The formula of heat balance for human organism is:
Q = MQ = MLLQQPP QQRR QQCVCV QQCC QQBB
L = RL = R
70%70%
20%20%
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The production of heat depend on the level of our METABOLISM(synthesis & disintegration reactions).
Normal people in comfortable environment conditions, its mean:
the temperature 210C,
humidity 50%
air motion about 0,1m/sin the sitting position
produce around 210kJ heat.
The value of heat production depends on works intensity, f.e.:
During sleepingit is about 40W/m2
During hard work or exercise - up to 500W/m2
This value also depend on the health state condition of human
organism
MMICROCLIMATEICROCLIMATEOFOFCLOTHINGCLOTHING
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Heat comfortIts a state which insurance properly microclimate
between body and garment during physical action in
variable weather condition maintain full physical and
mental efficiency
(HOMEOSTASIS)
Heat discomfort
during heat unbalance become cooled
(HYPOTHERMIA)
or overheated (HYPERTHERMIA) human body.
Both of these state are unprofitable.
HHEATEAT CCOMFORTOMFORTANDAND DDISCOMFORTISCOMFORT
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Heat comfortCold
HHEATEAT CCOMFORTOMFORTANDAND DDISCOMFORTISCOMFORTSS
364293
0
-395
126
-167
-578
-600
-400
-200
0
200
400
600
25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40
Skin temperature[C]
He
atstateoforga
nism[kJ]
Heat deficit Heataccumulation
ColderColdest
Heat comfort WarmWarmerWarmest
Thermal shock
HOMEOSTASISHYPOTHERMIA
HYPERTHERMIAHOMEOSTASIS
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WIND CHILL TEMPERATUREWIND CHILL TEMPERATURE
RISK OF FROSTBITELower or without any risk
Lower of frostbite for peopleLittle dangerous frostbite for people after 10-30 minutes
Increased dangerous frostbite for people after 5-10 minutes Increased dangerous frostbite for people after 2-5 minutes Great dangerous frostbite for all people below 2 minutes
T = temperature of air [C]
V10 = wind speed on 10 m up earths surface [km/h]
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HEAT FHEAT FEELINGEELING DEPEND ON:DEPEND ON:1.the kind and number of pours inside of garments fabrics,
2. the numbers of layers of garments
3. weight of garments
4. thickness17-23 mm it is boarding thickness, bigger not influence onthermal insulation
5. construction of garments
6. kind of fittingclosely clothing have lower heat resistance than loosely
the optimum lay of air it is 5 mm around body
THERMAL INSULATION1 clo1clo = 0,115 m2K/W
The garments which have insulation 1 clo guaranty heat comfort in following
climate parameter:
temperature of air 210C,
speed of air motion 0,1m/s,humidity of air 50%,
the human doesnt make any physic work metabolism is 1 met
The normal clothing1-4 clo
The insulation of body skin0,15 - 0,18 clo
The arctic clothing11-14 clo
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NNOMOGRAMOMOGRAMOFOF BBEHMANNAEHMANNAgives possibility to define thermal insulation of garments
depend on climates factors and the kind of work
0 m/s0,1 m/s
1 m/s5 m/s20 m/s
Tem. T [0C]
30 20 10 0 -10 -20 -30 -400
Thermal insulation [clo]
24681012
Middle intensive work3 met
Hard work6 met
Very light work - 1,5 met
Rest, seat1 met
Sleeping0,8 met
Light work2 met
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PPOSSIBILITYOSSIBILITYTTOO TTRANSPORTRANSPORT (D(DISPOSALISPOSAL)) WWATERATERDepend on fibres' hygroscope and parameters of outside air
Normal human perspire - 24-40 [g/h*m2].
During intensive work in temperature (20240C) - 500 [g/h*m2]
The factors which decide on water permeability:
thickness
capacity
fittingdisparity of temperature between outside and inside layer
of garments
humidity of air inside and outside
speed of air motion
Wet skin could significantly increase the effect of chilling body and
decrease the time for frostbite
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The human breaths not only by nose and mouth but by all
skin, so the air around body should be similarly like air
outside.
This property has to protect the admissible level of carbon
dioxide (CO2) in air between clothing and skin
below 0,03%
The factors which decide on clothings ventilation:
the structure of fabrics (f.e.: filling)
thickness
number of fabrics layers
humidity of fabrics
breadth of lay air around of body
the kind of fabrics finishing
the factors of outside air
VENTILATIONVENTILATION
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during seating in temperature T=250C
the production of carbon dioxide (CO2) is 250 [mg/h*m2]
during seating in temperature T=400
Cthe production of carbon dioxide (CO2) is 350 [mg/h*m
2]
during work in temperature T=250C
the production of carbon dioxide (CO2) is 600900[mg/h*m2
]
PPRODUCTIONRODUCTIONOFOF CCARBONARBON DDIOXIDEIOXIDEBYBYHHUMANUMAN BBODYODY
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NATUR
AL
cotton
wool
flax silk
ARTIFICIAL
viscose
acetate
S
YNTHETIC
polyamide PA
polyester PES polyacrylonitryle
PAN
polypropylene PP
polyurethane PU
polyvinyl chloridePVC
FFIBRESIBRES
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0
20
40
60
80
54
73
18
46
22 20
5245
30
Strenght [cN/tex]
0
10
20
30
4050
60
104
50
2630
3540 36
25
Elongation [%]
Elasticity
0
3
6
9
12
15
18
21
7,5
12,0
20,0
11,0 10,0
6,54,0
0,42,0
Hygroscopicity [%]
CCOMPAREOMPARESOMESOMEPROPERTIESPROPERTIESOFOFFIBRESFIBRES
lower lower
very high very high
middle
high
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WWRINKLERINKLE RRESISTANCEESISTANCE
On account of decompression after wrinkle we have fabrics:
1. With lower decompression (below 40%)cotton, viscose and flax
2. With middle decompression (4060%)silk and rayon
3. With good decompression (above 60%)wool and PES
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Natural
Artificial
Synthetic
I STEP:I STEP: FFIBRESIBRES
TTHOUSANDHOUSANDOFOF PPOSSIBILITYOSSIBILITYANDAND MMULTIPLYULTIPLY CCOMBINATIONOMBINATION
MMIXEDIXED
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technologicalspinningprocess
worsted
carded
withoutspindled
number ofyarn
single
twisted
multiply
kind of twist
twist S
twist Z
twist mixed
core
with core
without core
destination
for weaving
for knitting
special
II STEP:II STEP: YYARNARN
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SSOMEOME FFACTORSACTORSOFOF YYARNARNWHICHWHICHIINFLUENCENFLUENCEONON PPROPERTIESROPERTIESOFOF FFABRICABRIC
1.Weaving yarns with compare to knitting yarns are stronger and moretwisted.
2. Warp yarns are more twisted than weft yarns.
3. Special yarn is destined for threads or fishing nets.
Count of yarn, texthickness of yarn and its uniformity Direction and number of twist
Tensile strength Elasticity
low twist yarns soft fabric with good thermal insulation
but with lower strength and lowerwrinkle resistance
multiply twisted yarn fabric with high level of tensile strength
and very well resistance of friction, but
stiff and with lower thermal insulation
high twist yarns the grain, folded surface of fabrics
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Almost textiles fabrics for clothing are made from yarnsexcept non-wovens which are made exactly from fleece of fibres.
III STEP:III STEP:TTEXTILEEXTILESS FFABRICSABRICSFORFOR CCLOTHINGLOTHING
their thicknesstheir thicknessin comparison to lengthin comparison to lengthand widthand width
is very small.is very small.
We usually call them flat goods because
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Woven fabrics
Knitted fabrics
Plaited fabrics
Bonded fabrics
Non-woven fabrics
Laminate fabrics
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These two systems interlace at
a right angle in specified ordercalled PATTERN.
TTEXTILEEXTILESS WWOVENOVEN FFABRICSABRICSThey are made by two systems of yearn:
weft yarn and warp yarn
The parameters determinate structure
of woven fabric important for
clothing:kind of pattern
density of weft and warp yearns;thickness;
surface mass
WEFT YARNWEFT YARN
WARP YARNWARP YARN
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PatternPatternThe kind of pattern influence on:
tensile strength of fabric
the fabric is more strength but
least abrasion resistance
appearance of surface
the more points of interlacing
weft with warp
kind of fitting and laying onthe body
the surface of fabric
is smoothly and polish
the longer loose section
between interlacing
the fabrics has better hand
(catch) and is better laying
and fitting
the least points of interlace
weft with warp
plain fabric the most strength than satin
satin fabric
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DDENSITYENSITYOFOF WWEFTEFTANDAND WWARPARP YYEARNSEARNS
Almost 70% capacity of textile fabric is occupied by air, whichis the best heat insulator, f.e.:
inside smoothing fabric the capacity of air amount about 50%
inside teaseling (raising, napping) fabricsab. 90%
TT KK FF
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TTEXTILEEXTILESS KKNITTEDNITTED FFABRICSABRICS
COURSE/ROWCOURSE/ROW
WALE/COLUMNWALE/COLUMN LOOPLOOP
The parameters determinate structure of knitted fabric important
for clothing:
kind of pattern density of wales and courses
filling thickness
surface mass
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KKNITTEDNITTED FFABRICABRICSS
WEFT KNITTEDWEFT KNITTED WARP KNITTEDWARP KNITTED
May be made from a single yarn. The yarn is fed crosswise to the
length of the fabric
Can be unravelled Knitting needles work all together or
sequentially (jacquard)
Requires a full warp sheet The loop-forming yearns are fed in the
direction of the length of the fabric.
Can not be unravelled. Knitting needles always work together
as a unit.
CC
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CCOMPAREOMPAREKNITTEDKNITTEDWITHWITHWOVENWOVENFABRICFABRIC
1. more elasticity and resilience2. more stretching
3. more softer
4. better hygienically properties
5. more cold protection6. better ventilationventilation
7.7. better fitting andbetter fitting and settingsetting
1. tendency to pilling
2. unravel - easily unstitch
3. roller edges
4. difficult for sewing processneed
the different methods and special
equipments
AdvantageAdvantages:s:
DefectsDefects::
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LLAMINATESAMINATES
OUTER LAYER
MEMBRANEMOISTURE
VAPOUR INNER LAYER
RAIN, SNOWWIND
The two, three or more layers are built the laminates fabrics.
The example of these materials are laminate with membrane,
which is used for thermo-active clothing
The membrane structure
characterizes two,
theoretical opposite factors:
1. from outside there areideal protection barriers
against rain, snow and
wind
2.from inside they are
breath, well ventilation
and insurance draining
off moisture (vapour,
sweat) outside.
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Inside membrane there are micropores (ab. 1,4 mld/cm2), which
dimension are 20 thousand smaller than normal drop water.
In case of moisture of vapour - their molecule are 700 smaller
than micropores.
Thanks to above vapour can be easy transport outside,Thanks to above vapour can be easy transport outside,
but the water from outside cant penetrate insidebut the water from outside cant penetrate inside..
These make breathable clothing and absolute waterproofThese make breathable clothing and absolute waterproof
MM UU TT
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MMEMBRANEEMBRANE UUSEDSEDININ TTHERMOACTIVEHERMOACTIVECCLOTHINGLOTHING
Teflon
Gore-tex
Polyester
Sympatex
Polyurethane
Hydrotex
Aqutex
Bretex
Thermoactive
Osmossis
Dry Tex
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BREATHABLE / TEST RESULTSBREATHABLE / TEST RESULTS[kg/m2/24hrs]
0
5
10
15
20
25
22
12
21
8 10
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NNONWOVENONWOVEN
THERMOPLASTIC POLYMERS[GLUE]
FIBRES
FILM OF THERMOPLASTIC
POLYMERS
HOLES
Nonwoven can be used as outer fabrics
(expendable clothing)
but almost 90% is used as interlining.
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They primary purposes are ensure in clothing:
maintains shape
suitable stiffness
good stretching
good relaxation
better strength
InterliningsInterlinings -- materials attached tomaterials attached tothe backthe back of the top fabric.of the top fabric.
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There are compounds, which together withincrease temperature change their state of
aggregation from solid to liquid.
Temperature
Deformation
Tg Ts Tf
Tgglass
temperature
Tssoftening
point
Tfflow
temperature
Glass
state
Elasto-plastic
state
Elasticstate
Plastic
state
Ts801200C
Tf - 1051600C
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PPARTICIPATIONARTICIPATIONOOFF IINTERLININGNTERLINING IINN TTHEHE
CCLOTHINGLOTHING TTECHNOLOGYECHNOLOGY IINN TTHEHE EENDND OOFF
XX CXX CENTURYENTURY
10%
90%
sewing interlinings adhesive interlinings
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regular location of grains (drops) -mesh
irregular location of grains (drops)-
Computer Point - CP
irregular location of grains and
sewing stitches
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The kind and density of drops of glue influence onsoftness and stiffness.
In case of the same mass of glue, but less densitydrops, the point of glue is bigger, and interlining are
better joined with cover fleece fabric.
In case of higher density, the points are smallerinterlining is better for thin and delicate fabrics.
Irregular location insurance against surfaces buckles(embossing effects)the same pattern of fabric and
drops of glue.
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0
50
100
150
200
3,5
130
180F[N]
nonwoven woven laminate
0
5
10
15
2025
30
35
40
2,1 4,2
38,5
C[dNm]
nonwoven woven laminat
TTENSILEENSILE SSTRENGTHTRENGTH SSTIFFNESSTIFFNESS
0
50
100
150
200
250
230
135
35
Q
nonwovens wovens laminates
PPERMEABILITYERMEABILITYOOFF AAIRIR
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Laminates properties
in realityin realityLL ((XXii + Y+ Yii + Z+ Zii))
mechanical propertiesmechanical properties
LL >> XXii + Y+ Yii ++ ZZii
physiological propertiesphysiological properties
L
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The clothing become from pattern are joined by sewing or by specialtechnique (gluing, welding, heat sealing).
IV STEP:IV STEP:CCLOTHINGLOTHING
Almost 85 -90 % of clothing is made by sewing,
the other technique is used for special clothes
barrier clothing.
SEWINGSEWING
The point of sewing is
joined by seamsclothing pieces (patterns)
for the porpoise to making cover for some
part of body.
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SEAM it is the smallest elements of clothing structure.
It become from at least one textile fabric, which has special laying and
joined by threads during sewing.
The threads make a special systems of interlacing and interloopingSTITCH
THE KINDOF SEAMS:
Joining seamsjoined minimum two textile elements Hem seamsfinishing hem of textile elements
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TTHEHE KKINDINDOFOF PPRIMARYRIMARY SSTITCHESTITCHES
LLOCKSTITCHOCKSTITCH CHAINSTITCH
singlesingleththreadread
twotwo--ththreadread
threethread
OVERAGE
STITCH
(OVERLOCK)
twotwo--ththreadread
three-thread
fourthread
safety stitch
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LOCKSTITCH
THESAMEUPANDDOWNSIDE
NOSTRETCHING
HASCLOSEDINTERLOOPINGOF
THREADS
CHAINSTITCH
DIFFRENTUPAND
DOWNSIDES
STRECHING
HASOPENINTERLOOPINGOF
THREADS
OVERAGESTITCH
(OVERLOCK)
OVERADGECUTEDHEM
STRECHING
HASOPENINTERLOOPINGOF
THREADS
SSHORTHORT CCHARACTERISTICHARACTERISTICOFOF SSTITCHESTITCHES
LLOCKSTITCHOCKSTITCH
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LLOCKSTITCHOCKSTITCH
SSINGLEINGLE TTHHREADREAD CCHAINSTITCHHAINSTITCH
TTWOWO--THTHREADREAD CCHAINSTITCHHAINSTITCH
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OOVERAGEVERAGE SSTITCHTITCHESES (O(OVERLOCKSVERLOCKS))
TWO-THREAD THREE- THREAD
FOUR-THREAD
SAFETY STITCH:
three-thread overage and two-
thread chainstitch
11needle threadneedle thread
22upper looper threadupper looper thread33lower looper threadlower looper thread44secondsecond needle threadneedle thread55second lowersecond lower
looper threadlooper thread
NNEWEW TTECHNOLOGYECHNOLOGY OFOF CCLOTHINGLOTHING
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NNEWEW TTECHNOLOGYECHNOLOGYOFOF CCLOTHINGLOTHING
Antibacterial and antiperspirant (moisture controlled) textiles:
FIRMS:
1. MONTEFIBRE - polyester fibre
Terital Saniwear2. COURTAULDS:
acryl fibre Amicor with antibacterial finishing
Amicor Plus with anti-mycosis finishing
3. FILAMENT FIBER TECHNOLOGYpolypropylene fibre - Salus
4. OMIKENSHI CO. - cellulose yarn - Crabyon - with addition of chitin,get from crustacean armour
5. RHOVYL- polyvinyl chloride fibre - Rhovyl'a.s.+ - protection against
acarinoss and microbes
6. JJW:
PROLEN Siltex -yarn with addition ions of silver SeaCell active yarn with sea algas - including minerals,
carbohydrate, vitamins and amino acids which liberate with
temperature raising and influence healthy for body skin
NNEWEW TTECHNOLOGYECHNOLOGY OFOF CCLOTHINGLOTHING
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NNEWEW TTECHNOLOGYECHNOLOGYOFOF CCLOTHINGLOTHING
Anti -UV protection
1. Enka Sun viscose fibreits blocked UV radiation
2. Meryl Anti UVfilter of dangerous sun radiationsafety sunburn
Thermoregulation fabrics
SCHOELLER INTERACTIVE- fabric
with microcapsules, which can accumulate
or emit heat with changes of body
temperatureinside of microcapsules are
material, which could converse phase
ACORDIS FIBRESOutlastacryl fibre
with microcapsules
cooling effectthe absorption of heatproduced by body
insulation effectheat emitting from
microcapsules to textile
thermoregulation effect - the same
level of microclimate temperature
Cold airOuter fabric
Microcapsules with
phases conversion
material
Heat emitting from
human bodySkin
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FIBRES
YARNS
FABRICS
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