clothing design in aspect of ensuring the physiological and psychological comfort

8/3/2019 Clothing Design in Aspect of Ensuring the Physiological and Psychological Comfort

1/60

Monika BogusawskaBczek, PhDUniversity of Bielsko Biala

Faculty of Material and Environmental Sciences

Department of Design and Technology Clothing

Poland


2/60

I.I. DDEFINITIONEFINITIONOFOF CCLOTHINGLOTHING::Clothing cover on humans body (trunk and limbs).

They fulfill two general functions:

1. Protection against damaging factors of environment, as:temperature, wind, rain, snow, harms of body.

2. Aesthetical function - satisfy of human needs which depends

on society habits and they are manifestation of their culture:

times (poque), religion,

economical and political situation

level of technology.

II.II. DDEFINITIONEFINITIONOFOF CCLOTHINGLOTHING

Clothingit is good which is making from patterns, received from

the base of anthropometric measurements of human body. In the

next patterns are connected each other by sewing or fusing to

ready to wear three-dimension garment.


3/60

In modern time the primary rules of clothing industry isproduction of fashioned and useful clothing, which guaranty

good looking and best filling.

The clothing industry is closely to textile industry, because the

textile goods are the raw materials for garment.Together with techniques development and become new, very

interesting and original design fabrics grow up the design

and useful possibility of clothing.

The forms and shapes of garment, as well as theirproperties depend on three mayor factors:

1. The kind of raw materials

2. Technology of their making

3. Their topic and destination.


4/60

In depends on destination the clothing fulfilled thedifferent function:

They protect against damaging factors of environment as:temperature, wind, rain, snow;

They protect against hurt;

They protect against biological, chemical, radiation andother pollution;

They make us invisible or visible in group of people orin the environmentfashionable or unfashionable garment;

They define the character of meeting - give official orunofficial forms.


5/60

The clothing characterize a lot of different

properties, which describe and decide about

clothing functionalism to fulfill designed

function.

USEFUL PROPERTIES


6/60

Aesthetic

Colour, designand patterns

To be fashion

Well construction

Resistance ofpilling

Resistance of

dirtying Durability of

shape

Light fastness

Washing fastness

Physiological

Airpermeability

Waterpermeability

Sorption

Thermal

insulation Breathing

Microorganisms- proof

Antistatic

Mechanical

Tensilestrength

Abrasionresisting

Dynamicstrength

Stiffness

Conservation

Kind ofcleaningprocess

Temperatureof cleaning

Time ofdrying

Sterilization

Special

Waterproof

Fireproof

Thermalinsulation

Chemicalresistant

Radiationresistant

Nice looking

Comfort of

physiological filling

Wear-resistant

Level complicationduring using

Barrier against

environment


7/60

The art design

The materials design

The structure design


8/60

MMICROCLIMATEICROCLIMATEOFOFCLOTHINGCLOTHING

One of the primary rule of clothing is insuranceproperly microclimate between human skin and

clothing layers.

This microclimate its cooperation between following

factors:

TEMPERATUREPRESSUREOFVAPOURMOLECULES

HUMIDITY

AIRMOTION

Value of these factors depend on:

1. How much heat produce a human body

2. How looks a heat exchange condition with

environment


9/60

Properly microclimate between human skin and

clothing layers is:

the average temperature of skin is between 32 to 340C

the low humidity (about 30-40%)

to keep a minimum air motion (0,1m/s)

the level of carbon dioxide (CO2) containing similarly

as the atmospheric air, which we are breathingbelow0,03%.



10/60

where:

M- heat of metabolism

Lheat looser for mechanical work

Qpheat looser for vaporization sweat (perspire)

QRheat extract or looser during radiation

QCVheat extract or looser during convection

QCheat extract or looser during conduction

QB- heat extract or looser during breathing

Qcompensation value of heat balance lackIt is function of clothingIREQ

(Index of Required Clothing Insulation)

The formula of heat balance for human organism is:

Q = MQ = MLLQQPP QQRR QQCVCV QQCC QQBB

L = RL = R

70%70%

20%20%


11/60

The production of heat depend on the level of our METABOLISM(synthesis & disintegration reactions).

Normal people in comfortable environment conditions, its mean:

the temperature 210C,

humidity 50%

air motion about 0,1m/sin the sitting position

produce around 210kJ heat.

The value of heat production depends on works intensity, f.e.:

During sleepingit is about 40W/m2

During hard work or exercise - up to 500W/m2

This value also depend on the health state condition of human

organism



12/60

Heat comfortIts a state which insurance properly microclimate

between body and garment during physical action in

variable weather condition maintain full physical and

mental efficiency

(HOMEOSTASIS)

Heat discomfort

during heat unbalance become cooled

(HYPOTHERMIA)

or overheated (HYPERTHERMIA) human body.

Both of these state are unprofitable.

HHEATEAT CCOMFORTOMFORTANDAND DDISCOMFORTISCOMFORT


13/60

Heat comfortCold

HHEATEAT CCOMFORTOMFORTANDAND DDISCOMFORTISCOMFORTSS

364293

0

-395

126

-167

-578

-600

-400

-200

0

200

400

600

25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40

Skin temperature[C]

He

atstateoforga

nism[kJ]

Heat deficit Heataccumulation

ColderColdest

Heat comfort WarmWarmerWarmest

Thermal shock

HOMEOSTASISHYPOTHERMIA

HYPERTHERMIAHOMEOSTASIS


14/60

WIND CHILL TEMPERATUREWIND CHILL TEMPERATURE

RISK OF FROSTBITELower or without any risk

Lower of frostbite for peopleLittle dangerous frostbite for people after 10-30 minutes

Increased dangerous frostbite for people after 5-10 minutes Increased dangerous frostbite for people after 2-5 minutes Great dangerous frostbite for all people below 2 minutes

T = temperature of air [C]

V10 = wind speed on 10 m up earths surface [km/h]


15/60

HEAT FHEAT FEELINGEELING DEPEND ON:DEPEND ON:1.the kind and number of pours inside of garments fabrics,

2. the numbers of layers of garments

3. weight of garments

4. thickness17-23 mm it is boarding thickness, bigger not influence onthermal insulation

5. construction of garments

6. kind of fittingclosely clothing have lower heat resistance than loosely

the optimum lay of air it is 5 mm around body

THERMAL INSULATION1 clo1clo = 0,115 m2K/W

The garments which have insulation 1 clo guaranty heat comfort in following

climate parameter:

temperature of air 210C,

speed of air motion 0,1m/s,humidity of air 50%,

the human doesnt make any physic work metabolism is 1 met

The normal clothing1-4 clo

The insulation of body skin0,15 - 0,18 clo

The arctic clothing11-14 clo


16/60

NNOMOGRAMOMOGRAMOFOF BBEHMANNAEHMANNAgives possibility to define thermal insulation of garments

depend on climates factors and the kind of work

0 m/s0,1 m/s

1 m/s5 m/s20 m/s

Tem. T [0C]

30 20 10 0 -10 -20 -30 -400

Thermal insulation [clo]

24681012

Middle intensive work3 met

Hard work6 met

Very light work - 1,5 met

Rest, seat1 met

Sleeping0,8 met

Light work2 met


17/60

PPOSSIBILITYOSSIBILITYTTOO TTRANSPORTRANSPORT (D(DISPOSALISPOSAL)) WWATERATERDepend on fibres' hygroscope and parameters of outside air

Normal human perspire - 24-40 [g/h*m2].

During intensive work in temperature (20240C) - 500 [g/h*m2]

The factors which decide on water permeability:

thickness

capacity

fittingdisparity of temperature between outside and inside layer

of garments

humidity of air inside and outside

speed of air motion

Wet skin could significantly increase the effect of chilling body and

decrease the time for frostbite


18/60

The human breaths not only by nose and mouth but by all

skin, so the air around body should be similarly like air

outside.

This property has to protect the admissible level of carbon

dioxide (CO2) in air between clothing and skin

below 0,03%

The factors which decide on clothings ventilation:

the structure of fabrics (f.e.: filling)

thickness

number of fabrics layers

humidity of fabrics

breadth of lay air around of body

the kind of fabrics finishing

the factors of outside air

VENTILATIONVENTILATION


19/60

during seating in temperature T=250C

the production of carbon dioxide (CO2) is 250 [mg/h*m2]

during seating in temperature T=400

Cthe production of carbon dioxide (CO2) is 350 [mg/h*m

2]

during work in temperature T=250C

the production of carbon dioxide (CO2) is 600900[mg/h*m2

]

PPRODUCTIONRODUCTIONOFOF CCARBONARBON DDIOXIDEIOXIDEBYBYHHUMANUMAN BBODYODY


20/60


21/60

NATUR

AL

cotton

wool

flax silk

ARTIFICIAL

viscose

acetate

S

YNTHETIC

polyamide PA

polyester PES polyacrylonitryle

PAN

polypropylene PP

polyurethane PU

polyvinyl chloridePVC

FFIBRESIBRES


22/60

0

20

40

60

80

54

73

18

46

22 20

5245

30

Strenght [cN/tex]

0

10

20

30

4050

60

104

50

2630

3540 36

25

Elongation [%]

Elasticity

0

3

6

9

12

15

18

21

7,5

12,0

20,0

11,0 10,0

6,54,0

0,42,0

Hygroscopicity [%]

CCOMPAREOMPARESOMESOMEPROPERTIESPROPERTIESOFOFFIBRESFIBRES

lower lower

very high very high

middle

high


23/60

WWRINKLERINKLE RRESISTANCEESISTANCE

On account of decompression after wrinkle we have fabrics:

1. With lower decompression (below 40%)cotton, viscose and flax

2. With middle decompression (4060%)silk and rayon

3. With good decompression (above 60%)wool and PES


24/60

Natural

Artificial

Synthetic

I STEP:I STEP: FFIBRESIBRES

TTHOUSANDHOUSANDOFOF PPOSSIBILITYOSSIBILITYANDAND MMULTIPLYULTIPLY CCOMBINATIONOMBINATION

MMIXEDIXED


25/60

technologicalspinningprocess

worsted

carded

withoutspindled

number ofyarn

single

twisted

multiply

kind of twist

twist S

twist Z

twist mixed

core

with core

without core

destination

for weaving

for knitting

special

II STEP:II STEP: YYARNARN


26/60

SSOMEOME FFACTORSACTORSOFOF YYARNARNWHICHWHICHIINFLUENCENFLUENCEONON PPROPERTIESROPERTIESOFOF FFABRICABRIC

1.Weaving yarns with compare to knitting yarns are stronger and moretwisted.

2. Warp yarns are more twisted than weft yarns.

3. Special yarn is destined for threads or fishing nets.

Count of yarn, texthickness of yarn and its uniformity Direction and number of twist

Tensile strength Elasticity

low twist yarns soft fabric with good thermal insulation

but with lower strength and lowerwrinkle resistance

multiply twisted yarn fabric with high level of tensile strength

and very well resistance of friction, but

stiff and with lower thermal insulation

high twist yarns the grain, folded surface of fabrics


27/60

Almost textiles fabrics for clothing are made from yarnsexcept non-wovens which are made exactly from fleece of fibres.

III STEP:III STEP:TTEXTILEEXTILESS FFABRICSABRICSFORFOR CCLOTHINGLOTHING

their thicknesstheir thicknessin comparison to lengthin comparison to lengthand widthand width

is very small.is very small.

We usually call them flat goods because


28/60

Woven fabrics

Knitted fabrics

Plaited fabrics

Bonded fabrics

Non-woven fabrics

Laminate fabrics


29/60

These two systems interlace at

a right angle in specified ordercalled PATTERN.

TTEXTILEEXTILESS WWOVENOVEN FFABRICSABRICSThey are made by two systems of yearn:

weft yarn and warp yarn

The parameters determinate structure

of woven fabric important for

clothing:kind of pattern

density of weft and warp yearns;thickness;

surface mass

WEFT YARNWEFT YARN

WARP YARNWARP YARN


30/60

PatternPatternThe kind of pattern influence on:

tensile strength of fabric

the fabric is more strength but

least abrasion resistance

appearance of surface

the more points of interlacing

weft with warp

kind of fitting and laying onthe body

the surface of fabric

is smoothly and polish

the longer loose section

between interlacing

the fabrics has better hand

(catch) and is better laying

and fitting

the least points of interlace

weft with warp

plain fabric the most strength than satin

satin fabric


31/60

DDENSITYENSITYOFOF WWEFTEFTANDAND WWARPARP YYEARNSEARNS

Almost 70% capacity of textile fabric is occupied by air, whichis the best heat insulator, f.e.:

inside smoothing fabric the capacity of air amount about 50%

inside teaseling (raising, napping) fabricsab. 90%

TT KK FF


32/60

TTEXTILEEXTILESS KKNITTEDNITTED FFABRICSABRICS

COURSE/ROWCOURSE/ROW

WALE/COLUMNWALE/COLUMN LOOPLOOP

The parameters determinate structure of knitted fabric important

for clothing:

kind of pattern density of wales and courses

filling thickness

surface mass


33/60

KKNITTEDNITTED FFABRICABRICSS

WEFT KNITTEDWEFT KNITTED WARP KNITTEDWARP KNITTED

May be made from a single yarn. The yarn is fed crosswise to the

length of the fabric

Can be unravelled Knitting needles work all together or

sequentially (jacquard)

Requires a full warp sheet The loop-forming yearns are fed in the

direction of the length of the fabric.

Can not be unravelled. Knitting needles always work together

as a unit.

CC


34/60

CCOMPAREOMPAREKNITTEDKNITTEDWITHWITHWOVENWOVENFABRICFABRIC

1. more elasticity and resilience2. more stretching

3. more softer

4. better hygienically properties

5. more cold protection6. better ventilationventilation

7.7. better fitting andbetter fitting and settingsetting

1. tendency to pilling

2. unravel - easily unstitch

3. roller edges

4. difficult for sewing processneed

the different methods and special

equipments

AdvantageAdvantages:s:

DefectsDefects::


35/60

LLAMINATESAMINATES

OUTER LAYER

MEMBRANEMOISTURE

VAPOUR INNER LAYER

RAIN, SNOWWIND

The two, three or more layers are built the laminates fabrics.

The example of these materials are laminate with membrane,

which is used for thermo-active clothing

The membrane structure

characterizes two,

theoretical opposite factors:

1. from outside there areideal protection barriers

against rain, snow and

wind

2.from inside they are

breath, well ventilation

and insurance draining

off moisture (vapour,

sweat) outside.


36/60

Inside membrane there are micropores (ab. 1,4 mld/cm2), which

dimension are 20 thousand smaller than normal drop water.

In case of moisture of vapour - their molecule are 700 smaller

than micropores.

Thanks to above vapour can be easy transport outside,Thanks to above vapour can be easy transport outside,

but the water from outside cant penetrate insidebut the water from outside cant penetrate inside..

These make breathable clothing and absolute waterproofThese make breathable clothing and absolute waterproof

MM UU TT


37/60

MMEMBRANEEMBRANE UUSEDSEDININ TTHERMOACTIVEHERMOACTIVECCLOTHINGLOTHING

Teflon

Gore-tex

Polyester

Sympatex

Polyurethane

Hydrotex

Aqutex

Bretex

Thermoactive

Osmossis

Dry Tex


38/60

BREATHABLE / TEST RESULTSBREATHABLE / TEST RESULTS[kg/m2/24hrs]

0

5

10

15

20

25

22

12

21

8 10


39/60

NNONWOVENONWOVEN

THERMOPLASTIC POLYMERS[GLUE]

FIBRES

FILM OF THERMOPLASTIC

POLYMERS

HOLES

Nonwoven can be used as outer fabrics

(expendable clothing)

but almost 90% is used as interlining.


40/60

They primary purposes are ensure in clothing:

maintains shape

suitable stiffness

good stretching

good relaxation

better strength

InterliningsInterlinings -- materials attached tomaterials attached tothe backthe back of the top fabric.of the top fabric.


41/60

There are compounds, which together withincrease temperature change their state of

aggregation from solid to liquid.

Temperature

Deformation

Tg Ts Tf

Tgglass

temperature

Tssoftening

point

Tfflow

temperature

Glass

state

Elasto-plastic

state

Elasticstate

Plastic

state

Ts801200C

Tf - 1051600C


42/60

PPARTICIPATIONARTICIPATIONOOFF IINTERLININGNTERLINING IINN TTHEHE

CCLOTHINGLOTHING TTECHNOLOGYECHNOLOGY IINN TTHEHE EENDND OOFF

XX CXX CENTURYENTURY

10%

90%

sewing interlinings adhesive interlinings


43/60

regular location of grains (drops) -mesh

irregular location of grains (drops)-

Computer Point - CP

irregular location of grains and

sewing stitches


44/60

The kind and density of drops of glue influence onsoftness and stiffness.

In case of the same mass of glue, but less densitydrops, the point of glue is bigger, and interlining are

better joined with cover fleece fabric.

In case of higher density, the points are smallerinterlining is better for thin and delicate fabrics.

Irregular location insurance against surfaces buckles(embossing effects)the same pattern of fabric and

drops of glue.


45/60


46/60


47/60


48/60


49/60

0

50

100

150

200

3,5

130

180F[N]

nonwoven woven laminate

0

5

10

15

2025

30

35

40

2,1 4,2

38,5

C[dNm]

nonwoven woven laminat

TTENSILEENSILE SSTRENGTHTRENGTH SSTIFFNESSTIFFNESS

0

50

100

150

200

250

230

135

35

Q

nonwovens wovens laminates

PPERMEABILITYERMEABILITYOOFF AAIRIR


50/60

Laminates properties

in realityin realityLL ((XXii + Y+ Yii + Z+ Zii))

mechanical propertiesmechanical properties

LL >> XXii + Y+ Yii ++ ZZii

physiological propertiesphysiological properties

L


51/60

The clothing become from pattern are joined by sewing or by specialtechnique (gluing, welding, heat sealing).

IV STEP:IV STEP:CCLOTHINGLOTHING

Almost 85 -90 % of clothing is made by sewing,

the other technique is used for special clothes

barrier clothing.

SEWINGSEWING

The point of sewing is

joined by seamsclothing pieces (patterns)

for the porpoise to making cover for some

part of body.


52/60

SEAM it is the smallest elements of clothing structure.

It become from at least one textile fabric, which has special laying and

joined by threads during sewing.

The threads make a special systems of interlacing and interloopingSTITCH

THE KINDOF SEAMS:

Joining seamsjoined minimum two textile elements Hem seamsfinishing hem of textile elements


53/60

TTHEHE KKINDINDOFOF PPRIMARYRIMARY SSTITCHESTITCHES

LLOCKSTITCHOCKSTITCH CHAINSTITCH

singlesingleththreadread

twotwo--ththreadread

threethread

OVERAGE

STITCH

(OVERLOCK)

twotwo--ththreadread

three-thread

fourthread

safety stitch


54/60

LOCKSTITCH

THESAMEUPANDDOWNSIDE

NOSTRETCHING

HASCLOSEDINTERLOOPINGOF

THREADS

CHAINSTITCH

DIFFRENTUPAND

DOWNSIDES

STRECHING

HASOPENINTERLOOPINGOF

THREADS

OVERAGESTITCH

(OVERLOCK)

OVERADGECUTEDHEM

STRECHING

HASOPENINTERLOOPINGOF

THREADS

SSHORTHORT CCHARACTERISTICHARACTERISTICOFOF SSTITCHESTITCHES

LLOCKSTITCHOCKSTITCH


55/60

LLOCKSTITCHOCKSTITCH

SSINGLEINGLE TTHHREADREAD CCHAINSTITCHHAINSTITCH

TTWOWO--THTHREADREAD CCHAINSTITCHHAINSTITCH


56/60

OOVERAGEVERAGE SSTITCHTITCHESES (O(OVERLOCKSVERLOCKS))

TWO-THREAD THREE- THREAD

FOUR-THREAD

SAFETY STITCH:

three-thread overage and two-

thread chainstitch

11needle threadneedle thread

22upper looper threadupper looper thread33lower looper threadlower looper thread44secondsecond needle threadneedle thread55second lowersecond lower

looper threadlooper thread

NNEWEW TTECHNOLOGYECHNOLOGY OFOF CCLOTHINGLOTHING


57/60

NNEWEW TTECHNOLOGYECHNOLOGYOFOF CCLOTHINGLOTHING

Antibacterial and antiperspirant (moisture controlled) textiles:

FIRMS:

1. MONTEFIBRE - polyester fibre

Terital Saniwear2. COURTAULDS:

acryl fibre Amicor with antibacterial finishing

Amicor Plus with anti-mycosis finishing

3. FILAMENT FIBER TECHNOLOGYpolypropylene fibre - Salus

4. OMIKENSHI CO. - cellulose yarn - Crabyon - with addition of chitin,get from crustacean armour

5. RHOVYL- polyvinyl chloride fibre - Rhovyl'a.s.+ - protection against

acarinoss and microbes

6. JJW:

PROLEN Siltex -yarn with addition ions of silver SeaCell active yarn with sea algas - including minerals,

carbohydrate, vitamins and amino acids which liberate with

temperature raising and influence healthy for body skin

NNEWEW TTECHNOLOGYECHNOLOGY OFOF CCLOTHINGLOTHING


58/60

NNEWEW TTECHNOLOGYECHNOLOGYOFOF CCLOTHINGLOTHING

Anti -UV protection

1. Enka Sun viscose fibreits blocked UV radiation

2. Meryl Anti UVfilter of dangerous sun radiationsafety sunburn

Thermoregulation fabrics

SCHOELLER INTERACTIVE- fabric

with microcapsules, which can accumulate

or emit heat with changes of body

temperatureinside of microcapsules are

material, which could converse phase

ACORDIS FIBRESOutlastacryl fibre

with microcapsules

cooling effectthe absorption of heatproduced by body

insulation effectheat emitting from

microcapsules to textile

thermoregulation effect - the same

level of microclimate temperature

Cold airOuter fabric

Microcapsules with

phases conversion

material

Heat emitting from

human bodySkin


59/60

FIBRES

YARNS

FABRICS

TECHNOLOGY

OF CLOTHING

CCLOTHINGLOTHING


60/60

clothing design in aspect of ensuring the physiological and psychological comfort

Documents