SOFW Journal 1+2/19 | Voulme 145 | Thannhausen, Germany, February 11, 2019

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Natural Waxes: Sustainability & Social Responsibility

Do Good, Look Great: The Case for Side Stream Ingredients

sustainability

Naturally Mobilize the Senses into the Skin

The Fusion of Ancient Wisdom with Advanced Technology

Novel Peptide Acting on Both the Pre- and Post-Synaptic Pathways

skin care

Safety of Facial Mask Products

preservation

“Natural” and “Organic” in Cosmetic, Related Products and Ingredients

regulations

Improving Protease Stability in Liquid Detergents by Protein Engineering

Sodium Benzoate, a New Alternative for Preservation in Home Care

home care

Do Good, Look Great: The Case for Side Stream Ingredients

P. Pericu, T. Krieger

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sofwjournal | 145 | 1+2/19

sustainability

Our planet provides us not only food, but fuels, such as wood, and materials, like cotton, paper, and rubber. With the global population projected to reach nine billion by mid-century, finding ways to use the land and the prod-ucts it provides more efficiently is essential. While science has created whole new sources of antioxidants, antimi-crobials and anti-ageing compounds, these need to be re-sponsibly sourced.

Do Good, Look Great: The Case for Side Stream IngredientsP. Pericu, T. Krieger

Today’s consumer understands the need for sustainability. They “get” it. And, increasingly, they demand it. But they also expect ethically produced goods to perform equally to, if not better than, their conventionally pro-

duced counterparts.

Introduction

It’s a trend that shows no sign of abating. Younger genera-tions are doing more research and reading than ever before. Sustainability standards and certifications are on the rise. And the apps in our pockets provide instant insights into the safety of products and source of ingredients. UN Sustainable Development Goal 12 (Ensure sustainable consumption and production patterns) assures that this spotlight will not fade. With product footprints influencing purchase decisions, per-sonal care brands need more options. One solution is to use innovative natural ingredients to meet sustainability and per-formance demands in categories such as skin care, hair care, bath & shower products and color cosmetics.Bio-based derivatives from food side streams are one way to cater to increasingly conscious consumers. By reducing waste and improving efficiency, the byproducts of food production are helping make sustainable personal care and cosmetics both attainable and desirable.

Safe Enough to Eat

Make no mistake: Consumers care about the planet, but no one is willing to put their own health at risk. Many consumers now believe that a beauty product “must be safe enough to eat” in order to not be harmful to their skin, hair or general health. In fact, almost one in five French, German and Spanish con-sumers agreed they would not put anything on their body that was not “safe enough to eat”. Using natural, food de-rived ingredients with familiar, understandable names can provide the reassurance they need to embrace a new product with confidence (Fig. 1).

Future-proof Resources

But naturality alone isn’t enough. Natural ingredients need to be produced in a sustainable way that maximizes the use of limited resources.

abstract

Fig. 1 Base: 2.000 internet users age +16 in each country.

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sustainability

The circular economy starts with extracting the maximum value from resources. According to the UN’s Food and Ag-riculture Organization, approximately one-third of food produced for human consumption is lost or wasted in the supply chain. By utilizing byproducts and “throw-aways” (including the not-so-pretty fruits and vege-tables that don’t make it to our supermarkets), food-based ingredients reduce waste and maximize our limited resources.

Life Cycle Assessment

Environmental and social impacts occur throughout a product’s life cycle. Dupont Industrial Biosciences takes a big-picture approach to product development, including en-vironmental life cycle assessment (LCA) as part of a compre-hensive assessment of sustainability. Following ISO 14040 methodology, DuPont evaluates impact both “cradle to gate” – from the production of raw materials and energy to the manufacture of our products – and “cra-dle to grave”, which also includes the usage and end-of-life impacts of our products. This holistic approach ensures every step along the way fulfills our core values and sustainability standards. Life cycle assessment provides a clear and complete view of environmental aspects across the entire supply chain, while showing potential improvement areas and providing per-spective. It also provides the quantitative impact data brands need to communicate confidently and transparently with their end consumers. For example, L’Oreal has developed an award-winning evaluation tool, called SPOT, which is ful-ly integrated into the design and launch process for all new products. It quantifies environmental and social per-formance across every aspect of the product lifecycle, in-cluding the footprint of the formula and the sourcing of ingredients.

The Beauty of Sugar Beets

So what does this look like in practice? Take the humble sug-ar beet, for example. Sugar beets (Fig. 2) account for about 20 % of global sugar production. But they are also a source of betaine, a naturally occurring osmolyte that manages wa-ter balance in cells by attracting and holding onto moisture (Fig. 3). As such, it’s a valuable ingredient with moisturization and protection benefits for skin, hair, and color cosmetics ap-plications. Betaine can be chemically synthesized or it can be extract-ed naturally as a side stream of sugar production from sugar beets. With traditional sugar beet processing, the resulting desugared molasses has little use other than in animal feed. The GENENCARE® OSMS natural betaine production pro-

cess is based on DuPont partnerships with sugar beet pro-cessors. It means they can increase their sug-ar yield by extracting more of it from the molasses while also recovering a betaine-rich byproduct called betaine molasses. Betaine molasses are transported to a DuPont production plant in Finland where the betaine is extracted using pat-ented filtration, separation and crystallization methods. But it doesn’t stop there. Another valuable byproduct, inositol, is recovered and used for nutrition and person-al care applications. Any remaining material is collected as separation molasses and sold for animal feed applica-tions. A third-party, peer-reviewed life cycle assessment of betaine produced using this process shows a carbon footprint of

Fig. 2 Sugar Beets

Fig. 3 Natural Betaine, as active osmolyte, helps regulate water balance within skin cells.

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1.83 KG CO2 eq / KG (Fig. 4) and non-renewable energy (Fig. 5) use of 44.1 MJ / KG. For perspective, turning the shower off one second earlier would more than compensate for the impacts from betaine in your shampoo (Fig. 6) [1].

Continuous Innovation and Improvement

The end result of this kind of comprehensive life cycle assessment goes beyond sustain-ability data and transparency. By identifying precisely where and how much energy is expended, it yields opportunities to improve the manufacturing process. In the case of betaine production from sugar beets, significant improvements have been made. Optimizing the evaporation process has yielded a 30 % energy savings, while optimizing crystallization saved 5 % on energy used. Using more biomass in the fuel mix has the potential to lessen impact even further.

References[1] Shampoo example assumes 1% use rate of natural betaine in a shampoo formulation and uses shampoo and

shower assumptions found in Golsteijn, L., et.al., ”Developing Product Environmental Footprint Category Rules (PEFCR) for Shampoos: The Basis for Comparable Life Cycle Assessments”, Integrated Environmental Assessment and Management – Volume 14, Number 5, pp. 649-659, 2018.

Fig. 5 GENENCARE® OSMS BA Non renewable energy use.

Fig. 6 Perspective in use: at 1 % use rate in sham-poo, GENENCARE® OSMS BA impacts < 1 second of showering.

about DuPont

Piera Pericu piera.pericu@dupont.com

DuPont Industrial BioscienceNeu Isenburg

Todd Krieger todd.m.krieger@dupont.com

DuPont Industrial BiosciencesWilmington

Science and innovation are essential to securing our planet’s resources and DuPont is proud to be at the forefront of the sustainability movement. We believe in inclusive innovation. That means collaborating with customers, suppliers, govern-ments, academic institutions and others to devel-op innovative solutions for an ample and nutritious food supply, abundant and sustainable energy, and protection for people and planet. Our 2020 Sustainability Goals integrate sustainability in our innovation process, further improve our operation-al footprint, and continue our efforts to enhance global food security.

contact

Fig. 4 GENENCARE® OSMS BA carbon footprint contribution.