dli korean headstart cultural notes

5/8/2018 DLI Korean Headstart Cultural Notes - slidepdf.com

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/dli-korean-headstart-cultural-notes 1/42

KP 0276 S

o r ean

(0 J r

CULTURAL NOTE

DEFENSE LANGUAGE INSTITUTE, FOREIGN LANGUAGE CENTER



KOREAN

HEADS TART

Cul tu ra l Notes

FIRST EDITION

November 1984

Defense Language In s t i t u t e

Foreign Language Center



CONTENTS

UNIT 1 . INTRODUCTION . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 1

UNIT 2. A BRIEF BACKGROUND ..•.

Popula t ion . . • . . . . . . .

Geography • . . .Climate • • . . .Recent His tory

Government

The Korean Monetary System

Holidays .... . . . . . .

UNIT 3. KOREAN CULTURE AND VALUES • • . •

A People in Trans i t i on . • .Rel ig ion and Phi losophy

Family and Obl iga t ion • .Male/Female Re la t i onsh ip s

Group and Iden t i t y • • .Respec t fo r Senior s . . . . . . .Kibun . •• ........•

Punc tua l i t y and Pa t i ence . • . • . .

2

2

3334

55

7

• •• 7

7

8

• •• 8

• •• 9

· . . 10

· 10

• 11

UNIT 4. CUSTOMS AND ETIQUETTE . . • .• • . . . . . . . . 12In t roduc t ions and Gree t ings . . . . . . . . .Names and Ti t l e s ..... .•. .•..•.

Cour tesy to Seniors . . . • . • . . • . . •.•.

Nonverbal Et ique t t e • . • . . . . • . . . . •..

Hosp i t a l i t y and Home Vi s i t s • . . • . ..•.

Table Manners • . • • . • • . . . • .En te r t a i n ing , Dr inking , and Parties.

• • • 12

· • • 13

· 15

· 1618

• 19• • • 20

UNIT 5. TRAVEL, SHOPPING, AND RECREATION ..•.... 23

Where to Go: S e o u l . . . . ... . • . . . 23

Where to Go: Outs ide Seou l . •.. ....•... 24

How to Get There • • . . . . . . . . . . . • 26

Where to Stay . . . • • . . . • . .......•... 27

Shopping in Korea . • . . . . . . . . . 28

Restauran t s and Food . . • . ... ..•.•... 30

Coffee Shops and Tea Rooms. . ...... 31

Nigh t l i f e . • • . . ...•. ... ..• . 31

Spor t s and Games. .

. . . . . . . . . . 32

UNIT 6. ADDITIONAL INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . 34

Off - l imi t s Areas ........ •..... ... 34

I f You Need Housing . . . . . . . .... . . . 34

Family Members: Fac i l i t i e s and Se rv i c e s . . . . 35A Few F ina l Tips .•..... •........... 35Some Books of I n t e r e s t • . . . . . . . . . . .... . 36

Fea ture Map of Seoul with Key . ..•. . 37

ii



UNIT 1 . INTRODUCTION

Although th e Korean way of l i f e may be very s t range to Americans a t f i r s t , it's not qu i te as confusing once you have learned

some bas ic f ac t s about th e h i s to ry , t r a d i t i ons and customs of the

Korean people . The purpose of t h i s book i s to give you th e background information you w i l l need to ge t a "head s t a r t " in Korea

and to f ee l comfortable deal ing with i t s cu l tu re .

As you read t h i s , remember t h a t Korea and Koreans are changingquick ly as Western ideas and technology blend with (or chal lenge)

t r a d i t i on . Remember a lso t h a t not every gene ra l i za t ion app l i e s t o

every person; some Koreans are very t r a d i t i o n a l , some f a i r l y Weste rn i zed , and most somewhere in between. But , in sp i t e of the many

changes in th e soc ie ty and i t s ind iv idua l s , the re are still many

customs and t r a d i t i o n s t h a t a l l Koreans recognize. Knowing some

of these "unspoken ru les" w i l l help you:

a . l ea rn Korean more e a s i l y , by re l a t ing it to th e

t o t a l p ic tu re of Korean l i f e ;

b. understand th e Korean people b e t t e r ;

c . minimize c u l t u ra l su rp r i s es and anx ie ty by knowing

what to expect ; and

d . genera l ly ac t appropr i a t e ly and comfortably byaccep t ing new ru l e s fo r some s i t ua t ions .

This book 's major sec t ions inc lude background information

on Korea; Korean soc ie ty and i t s values ; customs and e t i q u e t t e ;and f i na l ly , t r a v e l and rec rea t ion h in t s to make your s t ay moreen joyab le .

Even with th e bes t prepara t ion and i n t en t i o n s , you may f ee l

confused a t f i r s t by th e world outs ide your pos t . That ' s onlyna tu ra l . But i f you look a t your new environment as somethingexc i t ing and cha l l eng ing , and make an e f f o r t to meet th e peopleand to see Korea, you ' l l discover some new th ings (foods , bever-

ages , and so on) , some o ld th ings (ancient palaces and t emples) ,

and something unchanging-- the na tu ra l scen ic beauty of Korea.

So take it easy , take it s low; f ind an "old hand" to show

you around or a new f r iend to exper ience it a l l with you. Keepyour sense of humor, and you ' l l f e e l more a t home in no t ime a ta l l . As you read , jo t down your comments; make t h i s your book.It's yours to keep and use as your persona l guide to Korea.

1



UNIT 2. A BRIEF BACKGROUND

The Korean peninsula l i e s between the People ' s Republic ofChina, to which it i s a t t ached , and Japan. I t can be seen as a

crossroads of the Orien t - -o r as a t a rg e t fo r invaders . I t hasbeen both . Look a t i t s s i z e . This smal l country has demonstrateds t reng th of s p i r i t , adapt ing to repeated domination and devas ta

t ion without losing i t s own t r a d i t i o n s . The word "Korea" means

"high" (ko) and "c lear" ( ryo) , r e f l e c t i n g th e coun t ry ' s mountainsand c lea r st reams. An older name i s Chosun, "Land of th e Morning

Calm," "which mirrors th e coun t ry ' s t r a d i t i ona l s t a t e of mind.

POPULATION

The ances to rs of th e Koreans a re bel ieved to have been migrantsfrom th e north ( s pe c i f i c a l l y , Cent ra l Asia and th e Caucasus) who

came to th e Korean peninsula around the t h i r t een th century B.C.General ly , Koreans have seldom in te rmarr ied with out s ide rs u n t i lr ecen t ly when the re have been many Korean-American marriages;however , th e percen tage of in te rmarr iage with other races is still

very smal l .

In 1984, South Korea ' s populat ion was est imated a t s l i gh t ly

more than 40 mil l ion , with approximate ly nine mil l ion people l iv ing

in Seoul , the c a p i t a l c i t y . North Korea ' s t o t a l popUlation a t th i s

t ime was est imated a t 20 mil l ion .

South Korea is sa id to be one of the wor ld ' s most densely popul a t ed na t ions , averaging about 970 people per square mile. Whilemost people t r a d i t i o n a l l y l i ved in ru ra l areas , growing numbers are

sh i f t ing toward c i ty l iv ing as Korea r ap id ly develops business andi ndus t ry . Now almost ha l f (48 percen t ) of th e popUlation l i v e s inurban areas . This move to th e c i t i e s has had important ef fec t s on

t r a d i t i o n a l customs and a t t i t udes .

2



GEOGRAPHY

Ju t t ing south from th e nor theas te rn corner o f th e Asian cont i ne n t , th e Korean pen insu la covers about 85,000 square miles .

The Republ ic of Korea (South Korea) , occupying about 45 percen t ofthe pen insu la , i s roughly th e s i ze of New York Sta te , but has twicethe popu la t ion .

The pen insu la i s bounded on th e nor th by th e Amnok and Tuman

r i v e r s (Yalu and Tumen in Chinese) and Mount Paektu . Korea shares

i t s borders wi th t h a t p a r t of th e People ' s Republic of China whichwas formerly Manchuria, and, fo r a s h o r t d is tance , with th e

Vladivostok area of the Sov ie t Union. On the south th e pen insu la

faces Japan and on th e west th e People ' s Republic of China .

The Korean pen insu la i s rugged and mounta inous ; Mount Paektui s over 9,000 f ee t high. South Korea con ta ins more l eve l landthan North Korea, espec ia l ly along th e western co as t and in the

southeastern Naktong River bas in .

CLIMATE

Summers are hot and humid with th e monsoon (heavy r a i n f a l l )

season usua l ly f a l l i n g between l a t e June and l a t e August.Winters a re co ld with occas iona l snowfa l l s . Average Januarytemperatures along th e sou thern co as t are above 32 degreesFahrenhe i t (0 degrees cen t ig rade ) . Spring and f a l l a re c l ea r and

comfortable , as in t he ea s t e rn United S t a t e s .

RECENT HISTORY

Korea has had cen tu r i e s of c i v i l i z a t i o n , which make a

fa sc ina t ing s to ry you can t r a ce as you exp lore the count ry .

For now, a few words on r ecen t h is to ry :

In 1910, fo l lowing th e Russo-Japanese War, Japan annexed Korea.

Despi te Korean s t rugg le s fo r independence , t h i s occupat ion l a s ~ e d u n t i l 1945, th e end of World War I I . To f a c i l i t a t e th e sur render

of th e Japanese t roops in Korea to the Russ ian and American

commands, th e country was temporar i ly s p l i t along th e 38th Pa ra l l e l ,

3



with th e North under Sovie t con t ro l and th e South under u.s.con t ro l . Following United Nat ions-superv ised e lec t ions in th e

South, the Republ ic of Korea was proclaimed on August 15, 1948,and recognized by th e U.N. as the only lawful government of Korea.

On June 25, 1950, North Korean forces crossed th e 38thPa ra l l e l . This was th e s t a r t of th e Korean War (1950-1953) in

which th e j o in t fo rces of the United Nations and th e Republ icof Korea fought th e forces of North Korea and th e ChineseCommunists.

When th e h o s t i l i t i e s ended, a new demarcat ion l i ne was es t ab

l i shed- - the Demi l i t a r i zed Zone (DMZ). This s t r ip i s f ive mileswide and 155 miles long. At i t s western end, th e DMZ reaches southto th e mouth of th e Han River , about 15 miles below th e 38thPa ra l l e l . The eas t e rn end t u rns up to th e co as t near Kosong, atown 50 miles nor th of th e 38th Pa ra l l e l . Panmunjom, s i t e of the

Mil i t a ry Armist ice Commission meet ings , l i e s near th e western end

of theDMZ.

GOVERNMENT

The power of th e Republic of Korea i s cen t ra l i zed in the

o f f i c e of t he P re s iden t . The Cons t i tu t ion provides fo r a s t rong

Pres iden t , who d i r e c t s th e execut ive funct ions through th e PrimeMinis te r and th e S ta t e Counci l . Legi s l a t ive power r e s t s in the

Nat ional Assembly and j u d i c i a l power in the Supreme Court .

North Korea i s nominal ly a republ ic with power ves ted in ar ep resen ta t ive assembly to which a cabine t and jud ic ia ry are subord ina te . However, th e government i s ac tu a l l y con t ro l l ed by th e

Korean Workers ' Par ty (Korean Communist par ty ) which i s headed by

th e Genera l Sec re t a ry of t he Pa r ty , who i s a l so Pres iden t .

4



THE KOREAN MONETARY SYSTEM

The bas ic money un i t of the Republic of Korea i s the won.

Korean money i s easy to dea l with s ince the value of co ins andb i l l s i s pr in ted in p la in Roman numerals. Today the re a re s ix

coins , in one- , f i ve - , 10- , 50- , 100-, and 500-won denominat ions.Paper money comes in 500- , 1,000- , 5 ,000- , and 10,000-won b i l l s .The exchange r a te changes f requent ly , but usual ly by very smal lamounts. However, you w i l l want to keep informed of these changesto g e t f u l l value fo r your do l l a r s . Curren t ra t e s wi l l be d i s played in t o u r i s t hote l s and banks , as well as in th e loca l

mil i t a ry banking f a c i l i t y . You may exchange do l la r s for won a tany of these p laces . (Other money terms you may hear used byKoreans are bul fo r do l l a r s , and jon fo r cent s . )

HOLIDAYS

In Korea, hol idays may occur on f ixed da tes or they may changes l i gh t l y from year to year . Off i c i a l l y , Korea fo l lows the Westernca lendar , but many f e s t i va l days began centur ies ago and are basedon the anc ient Orien ta l lunar ca lendar .

The fo l lowing a re o f f i c i a l hol idays :

New Year ' s Day (Shinjong o r S61)

F i r s t of March (Samil - jo l )

Arbor Day (Shikmok-i l )

Chi ld ren ' s Day (Or in i -na l )

Memorial Day (Hyonch 'ung- i l )

Cons t i tu t ion Day (Chehon-jol)

Independence Day (Kwangbok-jol)

Armed Forces Day (Kukkunui-nal)

National Foundation Day (Kaech 'on- jol)

Hangul Day (Hangul-nal)

Chr is tmas (Songt 'an- j61)

5

January 1

March 1

Apr i l 5

May 5

June 6

Ju ly 17

August 15

October 1

October 3

October 9

December 25



The fol lowing f e s t iva l days a re s e t by the lunar ca lendar :

Lunar New Year, or Sol , occurs on the f i r s t day of the f i r s tmonth (normally l a t e January or ea r ly February) . On New Year ' s ,

fami l ies ga ther to observe a n c e s t r a l ceremonies . Younger genera-t ions v i s i t t he i r elders to make formal bows and gree t ings .

Family celebra t ions t r ad i t i ona l l y inc lude eat ing r ice-cake soup( t t6k-kuk) , playing games, seesawing and f ly ing k i t e s .

Hanshik. Also ca l led "Cold Food Day" or "Grave Vis i t ing Day,"t h i s i s the l05th day of the lunar ca l endar . Koreans take wine,f r u i t , and cakes to the graves of t he i r ances tors fo r a ceremonyand a family p icn ic .

Buddha's Birthday (Saw6l C h ' op ' a - I l ) . (Eighth day of the

four th lunar month.) Known as the "Fes t iva l of Lante rns ;" t h i s i s

the most co lo r fu l of Korean hol idays . Ri tual s are held a t Buddhisttemples throughout the count ry , and lan terns are ca r r i ed in paradesthrough c i ty s t r ee t s . Buddha's Birthday i s an o f f i c a l hol iday .

Tano- j6 l . (Fi f th day of th e f i f th month.) Tano- jo l , alongwith New Year ' s and Ch'usok, i s one of the th ree big celebra t ion

days of the lunar calendar . Summer food i s offered a t the

household ' s ances t r a l sh r ine . Tradi t iona l ly , g i r l s dress in t he i rp r e t t i e s t clo thes and compete in swinging matches , while men com-

pete in wres t l ing and play tug-of -war .

Ch'us6k. (Fi f teen th day of the eighth month.) Known as Korea 'sThanksgiving Day, Ch'usok i s the day of the fu l l moon and the har

ves t f e s t iva l . Everyone wears new clo thes and v i s i t s t he i rances to r s ' graves . In the pas t , archery and hunt ing contes t s wereheld fo r th e men and weaving contes ts fo r the women. This i s also

an of f i c i a l hol iday .

6



UNIT 3. KOREAN CULTURE AND VALUES

A PEOPLE IN TRANSITION

Like every soc ie ty , Korea ' s i s b u i l t around cer t a in themest h a t under l i e i t s customs. This sec t ion compares Korea ' s s o c i a l

themes with our own and sugges t s what t h i s means fo r you as anout s ide r or gues t .

As you l ea rn about Koreans, keep in mind t h a t the country

has been undergoing g r ea t changes in l i f e - s t y l e s as wel l as in

business and indust ry--changes t h a t a f f e c t some Koreans more thanothe rs . This means t h a t you w i l l meet some Koreans who a re

Westernized and others who are t r a d i t i o n a l .

Koreans who l i ve in urban areas or who have been educatedabroad a re , p red ic t ab ly , more Western ized than Koreans who have

had l e s s exposure t o the West. But in c i t i e s , almost everyonewears Western c lo th ing fo r convenience , keeping t r a d i t i o n a lc lo th ing fo r s p ec i a l occas ions . Therefore , Western dress doesnot necessa r i ly r e f l e c t a Western out look. You may need to t a lk

to a Korean a t length to f ind out how t r a d i t i o n a l he i s . EvenWesternized Koreans may maintain an inner core o f t r a d i t i o n ,shedding Western ideas and dress when they r e tu rn home a t nigh t .

RELIGION AND PHILOSOPHY

Koreans enjoy freedom of r e l i g i o n . Animism (based on th e ideaof s p i r i t s res id ing in inanimate objec t s and na tu ra l fo rces ) ,

Buddhism (based on th e idea of repea ted reb i r ths u n t i l one en te r s

Nirvana, or f i n a l perfec t ion) and C h r i s t i a n i t y a l l c o e x i s t in

Korea without c o n f l i c t or con t rad ic t ion . Chr i s t i an i ty in bothRoman Cathol ic and Pro te s t an t denominat ions i s q u i t e i n f lue n t i a l .

Probably th e s t ronges t in f luence on th e way Koreans have l ived

for the pas t thousand years i s t h a t of Confucianism. Confucianismi s not a re l ig ion ; it i s an e t h i c a l code--a s e t of ru les fo r

proper behav io r - - tha t emphasizes orde r , harmony and re spec t fo r

e lders and sen io r s . This code requ i re s obedience and loya l tyfrom sub jec t , son and wife to th e r u l e r , fa the r and husbandre spec t ive ly . On th e other hand, th e king (or l e ad e r ) , fa the r and

husband must each t ake the r e sp o n s i b i l i t y fo r th e welfare o f those

subjec t to h is au thor i ty .

7



FAMILY AND OBLIGATION

Korean soc ie ty has t r a d i t i ona l ly been cen tered around th e

fami ly , and even today th e family connect ion i s still the mostimportant . As a r e s u l t , a Korean 's loya l ty i s f i r s t and foremostto h is immediate family and then to other r e l a t i ve s . The s t a b i l

i ty of th e family under th e f a t he r ' s au thor i ty i s v i t a l to th e

key Korean v i r tues o f orde r , harmony, se l f - c o n t ro l and obedience.The family system requ i re s a st rong sense of duty and obl iga t ion

in i t s members. These ob l iga t ions are deep and cont inuing,

involving f i n an c i a l as wel l as moral suppor t .

The family name and welfare a re more important than ind iv idua l

wants or needs. Even today many Koreans make personal sa c r i f i c e s

fo r th e good of th e family . Because of t h i s st rong family loya l ty ,

you wi l l hear both t r a d i t i o n a l and modern Koreans use express ionsl i ke "our house" or "our mother ," ra the r than "!!!y house" or "!!!y

mother ." The Korean home provides love, comfort , t r u s t and, de-

s p i t e changing soc ia l cond i t ions , t r u e secur i ty .

How does t h i s compare with American family l i f e? AlthoughAmerican fami l ies come in a var i e ty of s izes and s ty l e s , they are

l i ke ly to be more f l e x ib l e , more democra t ic , and l e s s s t ab le thanKorean f ami l ies . Also, most Americans are used to a more i n d i

v idua l i s t i c way of l i f e and may be l e s s wil l ing to make personals a c r i f i c e s fo r th e good of the family as a whole. Keep in mind

t ha t because of these st rong t i e s a Korean may put h is familyob l iga t ions ahead of h is plans with you. This i s only natura l to

him; no offense or i n su l t to you i s in tended.

MALE/FEMALE RELATIONSHIPS

Tr ad i t i o n a l l y , Korean women were qu i te i so la ted and r e s t r i c t e d .

For the most pa r t , a young woman s tayed within th e l imi t s of the

family compound u n t i l marr iage . After marr iage , she stayed withinth e confines of her new home, except fo r t a sks l i ke shopping.(Even today, one of th e most common Korean expressions for wife i s

" ins ide person .") A man, however, had fe w i f any r e s t r i c t i ons .

Modern t imes have brought changes to Korea, but t r a d i t i ona la t t i t ude s are frequent ly observed as wel l . Most g i r l s and boysa re separa ted in secondary schoo ls . Even today, wives are of ten

excluded from t h e i r husbands ' bus iness or soc ia l l i ve s . In th e

pas t , Korean men ra re ly i f ever brought business acquaintanceshome " to meet th e wife ." Ins tead , they would usua l ly en te r t a in

them a t a coffee shop, r e s t au r an t or other pub l ic place .

8



Of course , the re a re excep t ions , and these occur mostly among

weal th ie r , urban and younger Koreans. Women in these groups a re

genera l ly be t t e r educated and more l i k e l y to break away from t r a d i t i o n a l ro les . As the economy con t inues to deve lop , other women

a re becoming more independent , seeking careers and having more

in f luence ou t s ide the family .

In smal le r v i l l ages and in the coun t rys ide , most young women

remain r e l a t i v e l y r e s t r i c t e d and i so la t ed . Dating as Americansknow it may be almost nonex i s ten t , al though in v i l l ages nearmi l i t a r y bases cer t a in women may be more Westernized. I t i s bes t

to be very caut ious and reserved when meeting a young lady for the

f i r s t t ime, u n t i l you determine how t r a d i t i o n a l she i s .

GROUP AND IDENTITY

To be t t e r understand th e Korean people , you must f i r s t r e a l i z e

t h a t the family and other groups a re the major sources of th e in

d iv id u a l ' s p r e s t i g e , suppor t and sense of worth . A Korean der ives

h is s t a tu s and i den t i ty pr imar i ly from h is fami ly , where t r a d i t i on a l ro l e s and r e la t ionsh ips a re c l e a r l y def ined and unders tood .

Other groups essen t i a l t o one ' s sense of s e l f and wel l -be ing

include th e work group (co-workers and co l leagues) and espec ia l ly

th e school group. Classmates form c lo s e - k n i t groups t h a t give a

sense of i den t i ty to t he i r members. School f r i endsh ips and l oya l ty

to one ' s c las s of ten l a s t a l i f e t i m e .

In co n t r a s t , Americans pr i ze th e se l f -made s e l f - s u f f i c i e n t

person . We measure a person by h is or her accomplishments; Koreanslook fo r success through connect ions with fami ly , f r i ends , c l a s s mates and co-workers . Ins tead o f "spo t l igh t ing" the ind iv idua l asAmericans do, Koreans d i f fuse th e l i g h t to honor the group.

9



RESPECT FOR SENIORS

Trad i t iona l ly e lder s have always been honored in Korea.They are addressed cour teously by those younger and are allowedmany pr iv i l eges due to t h e i r advanced age. In older days, a

Korean wa s expected to r e t i r e and to be supported by h is sons fo r

h is remaining years . (Normally t h i s was th e respons ib i l i ty of the

e ld e s t son . ) Today, re t i rement ages may vary according to occupa-t i o n , employer or income, j u s t as in th e uni ted St a t e s . Grand-paren t s and o t h e r aged r e l a t i v e s of ten remain in the home, ca te red

to and r e l a t i ve ly pampered by other family members.

Although t r a d i t i o n a l re spec t for th e o ld may be lessening

s l i g h t l y , due to Western in f luence and the change to urban l i v in g ,

it is still f a r g rea te r than in the uni ted St a t e s . Those Americanswho observe cour tes ies and fo rmal i t i e s with th e e lder ly w i l l be

respec ted by th e Korean people.

KIBUN

To a Korean, th e word kibun includes a l l of our American ex-press ions l i k e "mood," " fee l ings , " "frame of mind" and so on, butit i s a much broader , fa r - reaching idea . The emphasis tha t

Koreans put on kibun, or s t a t e of mind, shows t h e i r concern fo rth e inner person. The importance of maintaining everyone ' s kibuna t a good l eve l sometimes causes Koreans to behave in ways incom-

prehensib le to unaware Americans.

For example, while Americans may be more in te res ted in meetinga deadl ine than in making sure everyone concerned f ee l s good, th e

rev e r se i s genera l ly t rue fo r Koreans. Also , a Korean might nodh is head and say yes to something you ' re suggest ing or request ing

j u s t to keep from di s tu rb ing your kibun. He may not agree withwhat you say, but to re fuse or to argue might ru in everyone ' s

kibun t h a t day.

Thus, many Koreans w i l l avoid g1v1ng an ou t r igh t "no" ordisagreeing d i r e c t ly . They pre fe r to use i n d i r ec t language or to

go th rough a t h i rd par ty r a th e r than cause any unpleasan tness .

Americans who understand t h i s and t r y to avoid confron ta t ions w i l l3 et along well in Korea.

10



PUNCTUALITY AND PATIENCE

In th e Korean coun t rys ide , man, not the c lock , se t s th e paceof l i f e and work. Hurrying, showing impat ience , l iv ing by th e

clock and worrying about being on t ime a re thought impol i te orunbecoming. This makes fo r a grac ious l i f e - s t y l e , but aga in , onet h a t i s changing with increased i ndus t r i a l i z a t i on and urban iza

t i o n . Leaving enough t ime fo r delayed appointments , extendedconversa t ions , or lengthy pre l iminar ies before ge t t ing down to

business w i l l help you ad jus t to and even enjoy th e Korean t imesense. I t i s also he lp fu l to t a c t f u l l y f ind out when one i sac tua l ly expected to show up fo r a so c i a l func t ion , regardless ofthe s t a t ed hour . In Korea t ime i s enjoyed, not spen t , wasted ork i l l e d .

11



UNIT 4. CUSTOMS AND ETIQUETTE

INTRODUCTIONS AND GREETINGS

F i r s t impress ions a re impor tant , and espec ia l ly so in Korea.

Being int roduced to someone i s your f i r s t opportuni ty to showyour knowledge of the cu l tu re as wel l as th e language.

The most important par t of a Korean gree t ing i s th e formalbow or more casua l nod. (Since it i s d i f f i c u l t fo r most Americansto do a Korean-s ty le bow gracefu l ly , it's bes t to simply nod yourhead ra the r than bow.) The age and s ta tus of th e other person are

th e major f ac to r s t ha t determine how deeply you should nod. I fthe person you are being int roduced to i s senior to you ( in age,rank or s t a t u s ) , you should nod your head more emphat ical ly thanhe does . It's p ~ o p e r fo r the younger or junior person to i n i t i a t ethe greet ing and to bow or nod f i r s t .

When a Westerner i s involved, in t roduc t ions may include ahandshake, but even in t h i s case a bow or nod i s made as wel l .

Normally it i s up to the e lder or higher - ranking person to i n i t i a t ea handshake. Since men and women do not usua l ly shake hands in

Korea, you should simply nod your head when meeting someone of the

oppos i te sex . However, i f he or she offe rs to shake hands, do so .

Phrases you may use when being int roduced include Annyong

hashimnikka? "How do you do?" and Chiem pwepkessumnida. "Pleasedto meet you." The other person ' s name i s not usua l ly mentioned inyour gree t ing ; however, you give your own name a t th i s t ime, e i the r

before or a f t e r the phrase you have decided to use.

To g r ee t people you a l ready know, nod your head and say e i the r

Annyonghaseyo or Annyonghashimnikka. Ei ther phrase can be used a t

any t ime of day, but the second phrase i s a little b i t more formal .A co r r ec t response to e i the r greet ing i s a nod, ne and the same

phrase t ha t was sa id to you.

In meeting or greet ing Koreans, remember:

DO: Use a po l i t e nod when gree t ing someone. When in

doubt , j u s t copy what th e other person does .

DON'T: Greet s t r anger s on th e s t r e e t . As a genera l ru le ,

t h i s i s not done in Korea.

12



NAMES AND TITLES

To the Korean people, names are very personal and sensi t ive

matters. Names are to be honored and respected, not used casual lyor mentioned unnecessar i ly. In place of names, Koreans prefer touse t i t l e s , posi t ions, mil i tary ranks or other courtesy t i t l e s

when speaking to other people, and they expect the same formalityin re turn. Whenever possible , names are l e f t out of c o n v e r s a t i o n s ~ they are mentioned only when needed to specify a par t icular indi-vidual . Usually only the family name (or l a s t name), along withthe appropriate t i t l e or rank, is used in such instances.

Given names ( f i r s t and middle names) are seldom used exceptwithin the family, among children or classmates, or between veryclose fr iends. Even a t home, children refer to the i r s ibl ings as"older brother," "younger s i s ter" and so on, rather than by name.A Korean husband or wife wil l not use the spouse 's name in front ofothers . Adults may even refer to others by describing a re la t ion-

ship for example, "the baby's father" or " tha t chi ld ' s mother."The Korean language has an amazing number and variety of terms toident ify each and every family member and re la t ive without usinggiven names.

According to Korean custom, the family name precedes the givenname, so the order is l a s t name, f i r s t name, middle name. I f aKorean uses his fu l l name to introduce himself, remember tha t thef i r s t name you hear is actual ly his family name, and the only oneyou should use. Never use a Korean's given name unless he or shehas asked you to do so. However, Koreans, especia l ly women, wil lnot volunteer the i r fu l l names a t the f i r s t meeting.

The following are some pol i te expressions you may use to addressKoreans, along with br ie f explanations of when to use them.

13



TITLES WITHOUT NAMES

sonsaengnim

a j o s s i

ajumoni

ag ass i

TITLES WITH NAMES

l a s t name

very r e s p ec t f u l , s imi l a r to "s i r " or"ma'am": used to address a person ofhigher s o c i a l s t a t u s or pos i t ion , or ofadvanced age . This i s the bes t form to

use when meeting someone fo r th e f i r s tt ime.

l e ss r espec t fu l than sonsaengnim: used to

address an older man of th e same or lowerso c i a l pos i t ion .

same as above, but fo r an older woman.

same as above, but fo r a younger(unmarr ied) woman.

+ sonsaengnim - - same as sonsaengnim, above.

l a s t name

+ sonsaeng

misut'(5 or

misu +l a s t name

MILITARY RANKS

l a s t name +rank + nim

l a s t name

+ rank

roughly equ iva len t to the one above:s l i g h t l y l e s s formal but still a verypo l i t e form. This i s probably usedmore of ten than l a s t name + sonsaengnim.

"mis ter" or "miss" : p o l i t e ways to addressmen or women of th e same or lower soc ia l

p o s i t i o n . (Note: Women in Korea keept h e i r own names a f t e r marr iage and do nott ake t he i r husbands ' names: a "miss" mayac tua l ly be a "mrs ." )

r e s p ec t f u l form used to address

those of higher rank (usua l ly off i ce rsand sen io r NCOs).

used fo r those of equal or approx i

mate ly equal rank , and below.

14



Be aware t h a t the ending -nim i s added only to other peop les '

t i t l e s or ranks. Since i t s purpose i s to honor and show re spec t

for another , people do not add it t o t he i r own name or title.

When t e l l ing someone your own name, it's bes t to use e i the r "mr. ,"

"miss" or your rank, s ince these a re l e ss formal t i t l e s .

When addressing Koreans, remember:

DO: Use th e appropr ia te title. When in doubt , usesonsaengnim. It's be t t e r to be too po l i t e thanto be rude .

DON'T: Use a name without a title. This i s a se r ious

s o c i a l of fense .

DON'T: Cal l a Korean by h is or her given name unless yo u

have been asked to do so .

DON'T: Use -nim to descr ibe yourse l f .

DON'T: Say "Mama-san" or "Papa-san" to a Korean. Theseare Japanese words. Use an appropr ia te Koreantitle in s tead .

DON'T: Copy expressions used by other Americans un t i l you

a re sure they a re co r r ec t and appropr i a t e . Some

may say "adass i " fo r a jos s r , - o r "aj ima" fo r ajumoni.Avoid these .

COURTESY TO SENIORS

A Korean i s expected to show re spec t not only to e ld e r ly people( those over 60 years of age) , but in many cases to those under 60

who are s i g n i f i c a n t l y older than himself as wel l . This l a s t groupinc ludes one ' s t eacher s , supe rv i so rs , and so on. So when you seeth e word "sen io rs" in th i s sec t ion , remember t ha t it includes

those higher than you in rank or pos i t ion as wel l as th e e ld e r ly .

In most cases , the same cour tes ies a re extended to them a l s o .

The following list gives some t i p s for deal ing with seniors :

- - Always use both hands when handing something to or whenrece iv ing something from a sen io r . Using only one hand i s consideredvery rude.

- - When s i t t i ng in th e presence of a sen io r , don ' t cross yourl egs , prop your f ee t up, or s louch in your cha i r . I t shows

re spec t to s i t properly with your f ee t on th e f loor , ins tead of

lounging back casua l ly .

15



- - As a general rule , do not smoke or drink when facing orspeaking to a senior (unless you have been given permission to doso) .

On crowded buses or subways, younger people usual ly offerthe i r seats to the elderly .

- - When being introduced to or greet ing another , the youngeror junior person bows f i r s t . Handshaking i s not done unless thesenior i n i t i a t es i t .

Juniors do not pat or touch a senior , even as a fr iendlygesture.

- - Avoid prolonged, di rec t eye contact with seniors; in Korea,younger or junior persons tend to keep the i r eyes downcast to showrespect and humil i ty.

NONVERBAL ETIQUETTE

Nonverbal communication includes a l l the ways one expressesideas or emotions without words--physical contact , gestures,posture, and so on. This section brief ly discusses some types ofnonverbal communication used by Koreans, as well as some typestha t should not be used.

Generally speaking, in Korean cul ture i t is considered impol i t e to touch another person physical ly unless there is a wellestablished bond of close fr iendship, or childhood or family t i e s .(Probably the only exception to th is occurs on overcrowded busesand subways, where Koreans pretend not to notice the elbows inthe i r r ibs or the bodies pushing past them to get on or off . )

Slapping someone on the back or putt ing an arm around someone'sshoulders is improper unless the person is a close fr iend.Grasping someone by the arm or shoulder to get his at tent ion isquite rude; it's much bet te r to have to ca l l him several times thanto tap or slap his shoulder . Never touch or put your hand onsomeone's head. This i s very offensive.

Showing affect ion in public for someone of the opposite sex,even one 's spouse, embarrasses Koreans, and kissing in public is

simply not done by Koreans. In the ci ty , some young couples maybe seen holding hands, but th is is a fa i r ly recent development.As a general rule , there is no physical contact between males andfemales in publ ic in th is country.

16



Because gi r l s and boys of junior-high and high-school age areseparated from each o t h e ~ in the classroom, same-sex f r iendshipsbecome very important. These f r iendships are usual ly very closeand affect ionate . As a resul t , you wil l see young people of thesame sex holding hands or walking arm-in-arm in Korea. Also,you might see young men or women dancing with members of the same

sex a t clubs or discos. Remember tha t although behavior l ike th isis considered strange in the united s t a t es , i t is perfect ly common

and acceptable for younger Koreans.

Some gestures used by Koreans are s imilar to those Americansuse. For example, while a "thumbs up" means "the boss" or "one'ssupervisor ," i t may also mean "good," "great" or "OK." Pointinga f inger a t the side of one's head and making a ci rc le meanssomeone is "out of his mind" or act ing s t rangely . Waving one'soutstretched arm from side to side means "good-bye." Others,however, can be confusing. For "come here," the Koreans wave thefingers of the r igh t hand ver t ica l ly , with the palm of the handei ther down or facing out toward the other person. This looks l ike

the American gesture "good-bye."

Some gestures you wil l see used may be easi ly understood;some may not . Some wil l be inappropriate for poli te conversationor behavior ( jus t as some American gestures are inappropriate) .To play i t safe , do not copy or imita te any Korean gesture unlessyou know i t s fu l l meaning and purpose. Also, do not point yourfinger a t a Korean; th is is considered impolite by Koreans jus tas i t is by Americans.

When giving a g i f t or any other object to a Korean, or whenpaying someone money, always use both hands. Use both hands whenreceiving something from a Korean as well .

Posture is also important to Koreans: don ' t prop your feet upon the furn i ture or cross your legs when seated, especially infront of elders .

When you wish to make someone aware of your presence withoutinvading the i r privacy or embarrassing them, a discree t cough wil lusual ly suff ice . This is especial ly useful in publ ic restrooms,s ~ n c e they do not always have locks. One coughs to show he isapproaching and wishes to enter ; an answering cough shows therestroom is occupied. (Tapping or knocking on a door or part i t ionis also used.)

One f inal note: In the United States , fac ia l expressions playa large par t in nonverbal communication. However, Koreans general ly do not express emotions in front of others as readi ly asAmericans do, especially negative emotions l ike disappointment orunhappiness. without these "visual cues" to le t you know when youhave offended someone or hurt the i r feel ings, understanding Korean

et iquet te becomes even more important.

17



HOSPITALITY AND HOME VISITS

Koreans are known for the i r hospi ta l i ty ; as a guest , you canexpect a warm welcome from them. However, i f an acquaintancearranges to meet you a t a tea room or coffee shop, rather than a this family home, don ' t feel s l ighted or unwelcome. This isbecause of the crowded condi t ions in most Korean homes. In rura lareas, where houses are roomier, Koreans may feel more comfortable invit ing you home.

Regardless of the s ty le of house, Western or t rad i t iona l , youmust take your shoes off a t the entrance and leave them therebefore enter ing the l iving area. Since the Korean people s i t ,sleep, and eat on the f loor , the f loors are kept polished andspot less ly clean--and heated from underneath. Be prepared to s i tcross-legged on a cushion on the f loor to ea t , drink, and ta lk withyour f r iends .

Wheninvited to a Korean home, one always brings a smallwrapped g i f t , such as candy or chocolate, for the chi ldren to eat .

I f there are no children in the home, then a small g i f t , such asf resh f ru i t or a desser t , is offered to the host or hostess.

(Don't be surprised i f the gi f t is not opened in front of you.Tradit ional Koreans wil l not open gi f t s in f ront of others; th isis to prevent embarrassment or "loss of face" to the giver i f theg i f t is small , humble or inappropriate .)

I f you are invited for dinner , i t may happen tha t y o u ~ hostwil l s i t with you but not ea t , and tha t your hostess wil l stayin the ki tchen. I f so, i t ' s because they are concerned about

t reat ing you properly and making sure you have everythipg youwant. Your host wil l say "There 's nothing to eat" or "The food isnot presentable." This shows he is humble, and honoring you.Tradi t ional ly , a guest always l e f t a l i t t l e food on his plate atthe end of the meal. "Cleaning one's plate" was an insul t to thehost ; i t told him his guest was s t i l l hungry because he didn ' tprepare enough food. Nowadays, th is pract ice is becoming less andless common. Your host wil l continue to urge you to eat more, buta firm re fusa l wil l be accepted.

In the United States , guests wil l often volunteer to helpprepare food or wash dishes. However, in a Korean home, Americansshould not offer to help--especial ly the men. (As a rule , Korean

men do not go into the kitchen.>

18



When v i s i t i ng , r e m e m b e ~ : DO: Take your shoes o ff a t th e door to a Korean home

(and make sure your socks are in good r epa i r to

avoid embarrassment) .

DO: Bring a small g i f t fo r the chi ldren or for the

host and hos tess .

TABLE MANNERS

Mealtime in Korea i s qu i te d i f f e r e n t from mealtime in America.F i r s t of a l l , Koreans s i t cross- legged on th e f loor and e a t from

smal l , low t a b l e s . Second, a l l th e dishes are served a t th e samet ime, not in separa te courses . Thi rd , food i s ea ten with chops t i cks or a spoon fo r r ice and soup. Eating with your hands i sto be avoided whenever poss ib le . Four th , Koreans use t he i r chops t i cks to help themselves from communal d ishes , ins tead of havingt he i r own pla tes . Everyone gets h is or her own bowls of r i c e andsoup, but a l l other dishes a re shared .

At the beginning of th e meal , wai t fo r th e senior personpresen t ( the highes t - ranking gues t or th e e ldes t ) to s i t down a tth e t ab le before you do, and wai t fo r him to begin ea t ing f i r s t .

I f it's a formal occasion or a s p ec i a l dinne r , s t a r t th e meal

by offe r ing to pour sauce in to a dish for th e person next to you.This cour tesy wi l l be re tu rned . Do not pour fo r yourse l f . Thesame holds t rue fo r beverages - -pour te a or wine fo r your neighboror for an e lde r , but never fo r yourse l f . Be sure to use bothhands when pouring fo r someone--one hand holds th e bo t t l e ort eapo t , the o ther "supports" th e hand or forearm from underneath .Also, use both hands to hold your cup or g las s when someone i sf i l l i ng it fo r you. You may use the "support" method above i fyou ' re ~ o l d i n g th e cup above th e t ab le ; i f th e cup i s res t ing onthe t ab le , j u s t touch it with your hands on both s ides of the

cup. Remember, i f it's j u s t a regula r meal with f r i ends , you won' tbe expected to perform a l l these little ceremonies .

Mealtime i s a se r ious mat te r fo r Koreans, and "d inner conversa t ion" i s l imi ted . When ea t ing , Koreans t a lk l e ss than Americans,except fo r the hos t , who w i l l o f fe r more food or apologize for i t s"poor qua l i ty . " Conversat ion i s saved fo r a f t e r dinner .

19



Set t ing your chopst i cks or spoon on top of your dish or bowl

shows t ha t you ' re j u s t res t ing ; se t t ing them on th e t ab le , however,shows you have f in i shed ea t ing . I f you need to use a toothpick youmay, provided you use your other hand to cover your mouth and hideth e a c t iv i t y from th e o t h e r s ' view. However, never blow your nosea t the t ab le or l i ck your f inger s . Both are unaccep tab le .

You may not ice some Koreans, probably older persons , ea t ing

no is i ly without excusing themselves . They are j u s t showing t he i rapprec ia t ion of th e food. Don ' t be su rp r i sed or annoyed by t h i s ,but on the o ther hand, don ' t imi ta te it e i t h e r .

Remember:

DO: Try your bes t to l ea rn to use chopst i cks . (The

squared-of f wooden chopst icks used in r es tau ran t s

a re eas ie r to use than th e "kn i t t ing needle" type

used in homes, so take a pa i r home to prac t icewith . The paper t h e y ' r e wrapped in usua l ly hasp ic tu res showing how to hold them.)

DO: Pour beverages and sauces for guests or sen io r s .

DON'T: Pour th ings fo r yourse l f , i f it's a spec ia l

occasion or a par ty .

DON'T: Try to c a r r y o n a conversat ion a t mealt ime.

DON'T: Blow your nose a t th e t ab le or l i ck your f ingers .

ENTERTAINING, DRINKING, AND PARTIES

When an American f r iend v i s i t s you, you probably o f f e r him

some kind of re f reshment . Your f r iend may accep t o r not , bute i the r way a dec i s ion i s made and th e sub jec t i s then dropped.However, t h i s i s not qu i te th e way it's done in Korea.

You ' l l f ind t ha t Koreans may h e s i t a t e to accep t your hosp i

t a l i t y or may turn you down--at l e a s t a t f i r s t . This i n i t i a l

r e fu sa l i s simply a sign of modesty and po l i t enes s on t he i r p a r t .Don ' t assume t h a t they don ' t want what you of fe red ; you should beaware t h a t it i s j u s t good manners fo r them to say no a t f i r s t .Offer aga in . Koreans expect to be asked two or th ree t imes to

en te r a home, take a s e a t , or accept food or dr ink . When playingth e host in Korea, repea t an offe r of h o sp i t a l i t y seve ra l t imesu n t i l it i s accepted .

20



Also be aware tha t as a ru le , Koreans do not bel ieve in "goingDutch." I t ' s customary for the one who suggests going out forcoffee , a dr ink, or even a meal, to t r ea t the others . Keep inmind tha t i f you make the suggest ion, you wil l be expected to payfor your fr iends as well . To avoid embarrassment, f i r s t make suretha t you have enough money or tha t you and your f r iends agree inadvance on how to pay the check.

Going out for dr inks or having a party where l iquor plays arole are both normally male-only ac t iv i t i e s , a t l ea s t fo r Koreans.Most drinking par t i es or other soc ia l enter ta ining i s done outsidethe home a t bars , res taurants or other publ ic places . One popularplace for par t i es is the kisaeng house. These houses provide aspecia l form of relaxation for Korean men, especia l ly businessmen.Here, young ladies known as kisaengs, wearing t r ad i t i ona l Koreandresses (hanboks), enter ta in them with songs, dances and pleasantconversat ion.

At drinking par t i es i t i s customary for the guests to exchangeglasses as a sign of f r iendship. During the course of the par ty,

everyone passes his glass a t l ea s t once (and usual ly several i tems)to everyone e l se . Refusing to go along with th is custom is viewedas an insul t to the other guests , so be prepared to t rade glasses .

I f you don ' t drink alcohol , you can f i l l your glass with cola orsome other sof t dr ink, but you wil l still be expected to t radeglasses with everyone present .

Korean males tend to get much more f r iendly and relaxed a t

such par t ies , especia l ly af te r a few dr inks . (You wil l too . )

They may s i t closer to you, or s i t arm-in-arm with you, or put anarm around your shoulders as a gesture of f r iendship . This iscompletely acceptable (and probably inevi table) a t a drinkingpar ty , so relax an d don ' t give i t a second thought.

As par t of the fun a t a drinking par ty, each guest usual lysings a song or offers some kind of enterta inment . Don't be anexception--be prepared. I f you sing a song for the others , theywil l be very pleased with you. Even i f it's in English, even i fyou th ink your voice i s t e r r ib l e , your contr ibut ion wil l beappreciated and applauded.

A specia l note for smokers: a t a party or other gather ing,don' t jus t help yourself to a c igare t t e and put your pack back inyour pocket or purse. I t ' s much more pol i te to of fe r them aroundand l igh t them for others (using both hands, of course) : then

leave the pack on the table so the others can help themselves.

21



Reminders for par t ie s and other soc ia l a f f a i r s :

DO: Offer dr inks or food or other kinds ofhosp i t a l i t y severa l t imes, not j u s t once.

DO: Real ize you ' re expected to pay i f you ' re the oneto sugges t going ou t .

DO: Accept othe rs ' g las ses grac ious ly when you ' re a t

a drinking par ty .

DO: Be prepared to perform a t a par ty - -a simple songwi l l do.

DON'T: Forget to bring ex t ra c iga re t te s along i f you

smoke.

22



UNIT 5 TRAVEL, SHOPPING, AND RECREATION

WHERE TO GO: SEOUL

As one of the world's largest c i t i e s , Seoul has i t s share ofskyscrapers and other modern fac i l i t i e s , but i t is equally proud

of i ts ancient heritage. Parks and palaces located in Seoulinclude Kyongbok Palace, Ch'angdok Palace, with i t s Secret Gardensthe Ch'anggyongwon Gardens, and Doksu Palace. Most palaces andgardens are open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. dai ly . Entrance t i cke tsmust be purchased with Korean money, but usual ly cost betweenf i f ty cents and a dol la r .

Kyongbok ("Shining Happiness") Palace is Seoul 's main palace.I t is located near the Kwanghwamun Gate and the Naija Hotel .Kyongbok has many buildings on i t s grounds, including two museumsand an elegant banquet pavil ion se t in the middle of a small lake.

Ch'angdok Palace, which is smaller , is located jus t a few

blocks eas t of Kyongbok. ~ e h i n d the palace are the Secret Gardens(Piwon). These beautiful ly- landscaped gardens cover almost 80acres, and are dot ted with pavil ions used by the royal famil ies .Tours in English are conducted regular ly ; check a t the gate .

Adjacent to the Secret Gardens are the Ch'anggyongwonGardens where you ' l l find a lake and botanical gardens.

Opposite Seoul 's City Hall , r ight in the busy hote l d i s t r i c t ,is Doksu Palace. Although surrounded by downtown skyscrapers andbusy t ra f f i c ar ter ies , th is sixteenth-century palace is a popularspot for lunch breaks because of i t s t ranqui l and refreshingatmosphere.

Between Doksu and Kyongbok palaces is the Sejong CulturalCenter where the Seoul Philharmonic and the National Symphony perform, as well as t rad i t iona l Korean music and drama companies.

In Seoul, one can also find Chogyesa, a large, ornateBuddhist temple. This temple is ra ther unique because i t islocated r igh t in the c i ty ; most temples are found in remote partsof the country, usually in the mountains, surrounded by nature.

Namdaemun, o ~ South Gate, is Korea's Number One NationalTreasure. Along with Tongdaemun (East Gate) , Namdaemun was part

of the original wall bui l t around Seoul in 1396. Both areas havelarge open-air markets nearby.

23



Near East Gate is Seoul Stadium, home of an d soccer matchesand other sports events. Located on the eastern edges of the ci tyare the Children's Grand Park and the Seoul Horse Racing Course.

Namsan, or South Mountain, has a park, a conservatory, and a ti t s peak, the huge Seoul Tower. The tower provides antennas forradio and TV broadcasting, but i t also has a snack bar, a revolving

res taurant , and an observation deck for a spectacular 3600

view ofthe ci ty . There's even a cable-car r ide up the mountain. Thesefac i l i t i e s are open to the publ ic , but you must follow the postedru les about cameras. - - - -

WHERE TO GO: OUTSIDE SEOUL

P'anmunjom, located 35 miles north of Seoul, is the s i te wherethe 1953 armis t ice was signed, marking the en d of the f ightingbetween South and North Korea. Here you can see the "Bridge ofNo Return" and the conference room where Military ArmisticeCommission meetings are held between the two s ides . (Half of the

building is in South Korea, the other half in North Korea.)Due to securi ty and uniform requirements, P'anmunjom vis i t s mustbe made as part of an organized tour , so plan in advance.

Next is the port c i ty of Inchon, located jus t west of Seoul.Inchon is famous for the U.N. forces ' his tor ica l landing duringthe Korean War. Chayukongwon, or "Freedom Park," was bui l t tocommemorate the landing an d to honor General MacArthur. TheInchon area is a popular resor t area in the summertime, and a tleas t one of the c i ty ' s major hotels has a casino.

About half an hour south of Seoul is Suwon, the capi ta l ofK y ~ n g g i - d o Province. Suwon Castle with i t s massive for t resswalls and gates is an important his tor ica l s i t e . In the Yonginarea near Suwon i ~ the Korean Folk Village (Minsokch'on), a funct ioning community, l iv ing and working in the t rad i t iona l manner.Blacksmiths, pot te rs , brassworkers and pipemakers can be seen atwork in the i r shops, which are part of the i r homes. All thehouses, ar t i fac t s , and implements seen and used here are authent i c , and t rad i t iona l dances and music are featured in the outdoorentertainment .

South of Seoul i s Seoul Taegongwon, a large family amusementpark. The park also has a zoo and is open dai ly .

Kyongju, located about 225 miles southeast of Seoul, was thecapi ta l of the Shil la Kingdom; today i t is a "museum without walls,f i l l ed with the his tor ica l remains of ancient Shi l la . Two of i t st reasures are Pulguksa Temple, with i t s beaut i fu l buildings andpagodas, and the Sokkuram Grotto, where a carved grani te Buddhaover 100 feet high looks out over the sea from the mountain top.

24



Kyongju is also the s i te of Tumuli Park, the bur ia l place ofShil la royalty; Ch'omsongdae, an ancient stone observatory; andthe Kyongju National Museum, which houses gold crowns, jewelry,and other ar t i f ac t s from the tombs of the Shil la kings and queens.Just 15 minutes away from the ci ty i s the Pomun Lake resor t area ,which has hote ls , a golf course, swimming pools and a casino.

South of Kyongju is Pusan, Korea's second-largest ci ty andprincipal seapor t . The ci ty is also the home of the U.N. cemetery,which f l ies the f lags of the 16 nations tha t took par t in the U.N.effor t during the Korean War. Here a t the t ip of the peninsula thewinters are mild, and the area i s popular with beachgoers. AtHaeundae, a suburban ci ty , there is a long white sand beach edgedwith hotels and casinos. Jus t outside the Pusan area , within anhour 's r ide , are two of Korea's favori te temples, Tongdosa andp o m ~ s a .

Cheju Island (Chejudo), a semi- t ropical is land off Korea'ssouthwest coast , is the home of women ocean divers , waterfa l ls ,lava formations, and clean sandy bathing beaches. On Cheju Is land,you can enjoy hunting, f ishing, scuba diving, golf , and mountainclimbing a l l year long.

Other places to see in Korea include Kanghwa Island, with i t sYi dynasty for t resses ; Chinhae, famous for i t s springtime CherryBlossom Festival ; and the eas t coast areas of Tonghae, Kangnung,and Mt. Sorak, for mountain scenery and snow skiing a t DragonValley.

To help you in your sightseeing, here 's a l i s t of commonlyused suffixes (endings for place names) and the i r meanings:

-do

-gun

-.!!E- r i ; -n i

- s i

-g } !

-dong

- ~ -won

-kongwon

province; also island

county or di s t r i c t

township; also town

vi l lage

ci ty

major di s t r i c t of a ci ty

sub-d is t r ic t (par t of a - ~ ) palace

park or garden

public park

25



-mun gate

s t r e e t or avenue

-s a temple

-san mountain

HOW TO GET THERE

When you ' r e new to Korea and still unfami l i a r with the country ,the bes t way to go s igh t see ing and t r av e l i n g around i s th e organized t o u r . The Seoul USO (United Serv ice Organizat ion) of fe r s

a l l - d ay or hal f -day t ou rs s ix days a week, overnight and weekendt r i p s , and a var ie ty of vaca t ion tours around th e Orien t , rangingfrom four to 10 days in l ength . The Moyer Recreat ion Center a t

Yongsan Army Garrison in Seoul a lso of fe r s tours on weekends andon some weekdays. Recrea t ion cente rs a t most mil i t a ry basesconduct a l l -day or overn igh t tours on weekends as wel l . For those

s ta t ioned a t Pusan or Chinhae, check with th e loca l USO KoreaFl e e t Center .

The USO and r ec rea t ion cente r tours a re a l l qu i te inexpensive,and use Engl ish-speaking Korean personnel as guides. Sightseeing

t ou rs a re offe red to a l l th e areas mentioned ea r l i e r in t h i s u n i t ,

plus many o ther s . Shopping tours a re extremely popular , espec ia l ly

before C h r ~ s t m a s . These go to s i lk f a c to r i e s , c ry s t a l and celadonpo t te ry companies, toy f a c to r i e s , fu r shops , f i sh ing rod and r e e l

f a c to r i e s , and more. (See th e sect ion on shopping l a t e r in th i s

u n i t . )

Once you ' r e ready to t ry t r av e l i n g on your own, y o u ' l l f ind

t h a t express t r a in and bus se rv ice i s quick and inexpensive. TheKorean Nat iona l Rai l road opera tes an ex tens ive network throughoutth e country . There are loca l t r a i n s , express t r a i n s , and th e

Saemaul-ho ( the "Blue Tra in" ) . The loca ls s top a t p ra c t i c a l l y

every v i l l a ge , th e express only a t main s t a t i o n s , but the Saemaulho i s th e long-dis tance champion; from Seoul to Pusan, fo r example,it makes only two s tops , and takes j u s t under f ive hours fo r thet r i p . The Saemaul-ho also serves the c i t i e s of Taejon, Taegu,Kyongju, Kwangju, and Chonju. I f t h i s t r a in d o es n ' t serve yourdes t ina t ion , ask for the t 'ukkup ye lch ' a , or regula r expresst r a in . I f you need more informat ion or as s i s tance with t r a in

t r a v e l , your loca l Transpor ta t ion Movement Off ice (TMO) w i l l be

able to help .

Ju s t l i k e th e t r a i n s , buses in Korea come in d i f f e r e n t

va r i e t i e s - - Ioc a l and express . Local buses serve a l imi ted a rea ,

stopping a t p r a c t i c a l l y every schoo l , i n t e r s e c t i o n , and bicyc le

path along t he i r way. They a re s low, and of ten extremely over

crowded, but very cheap. (There i s no standard fa re fo r l oca l busse rv ice ; they charge for the d is tance t r ave led . The bus g i r l w i l l

ask your des t ina t ion before co l l ec t ing your fa re . ) For t r ave l ing

26



long d is tances , or between major c i t i e s , your b es t b et i s anexpress or highway bus , known as a kosok bus . These a re muchmore convenient and l e ss crowded. Also, mil i t a ry -con t rac ted

buses , using Yongsan Garr ison in Seoul as t he i r cen t e r , prov ide

quick and inexpens ive t r anspor ta t ion between most u.s. Army andAir Force bases . Since the re a re mil i t a ry bases loca ted a t ornear Ch 'unch 'on , Taegu, and Pusan, as w el l as Seoul , t r a v e l between

these c i t i e s i s r e la t ive ly s imple . F in a l l y , most of t he l a rge rbases have e i the r a f r ee mil i t a ry s hu t t l e bus serv ing th e p o s t

or e l se low-priced se rv ice provided by th e loca l K o r ~ a n buses .

Taxis in Korea cos t more than buses , bu t compared to Americant ax i s they a re r e l a t i ve ly inexpens ive . In Seoul , the re are regula r

t a x i s , usua l ly yel low or green ; th e more expens ive "ca l l " t a x i s ,which are t an or brown; and PX t a x i s , which a re l a rge r and morecomfor tab le . "Cal l" t a x i s opera te only in l a rge c i t i e s , and PX

t ax i s only on and around mi l i t a r y b ases , bu t regu la r t ax i s a re

found almost everywhere. CAUTION: Some Korean t ax i s w i l l n ot ac

cep t U.S. money, and PX t ax i s cannot accept Korean money, so be su re

to have th e proper currency .

WHERE TO STAY

You w i l l f ind bas ica l ly two types of accommodations in Korea.F i r s t i s th e Western-s ty le h o te l , which provides p r iv a t e baths

and cen t r a l heat ing and coo l ing sys tems. Rooms in these hote l s

range from U.S. $20 to $45 a n igh t . Seoul ' s downtown luxuryhote l s w i l l run higher , bu t s e v e ra l o f f e r su b s t a n t i a l mi l i t a ry

discounts , depending on th e season . Addi t iona l ly , the U.S. Armyopera tes one hote l in Seoul and con t rac t s with another from t imeto t ime fo r use by mil i t a ry personnel .

Korean-s ty le ho te l s , known as yogwans, a re not as luxur ious

as Western-sty le ho te l s b ut a re much less expens ive . Even inSeoul , a comfortable yogwan can eas i ly be found fo r l e s s than $20.In the coun t rys ide , pr ices w i l l range from $10 to $15 per n i g h t .

I f you s tay a t a yogwan, remember to t ake your shoes o ff

a t th e door because you w i l l be s leeping on th e f loo r . A smal l

mat t re s s , or YQ, i s placed on th e f l o o r , and a th ick q u i l t ori b u l i s used as a cover ing . p i l lows are usua l ly th ick and q u i t e

hard s ince they are f i l l ed with r i c e husks . Some yogwans nowhave bathing f a c i l i t i e s in th e rooms or j u s t down th e h a l l . Inmost towns t he re w i l l be a publ ic bathhouse (mogyok-t ' ang) nearby.

27



SHOPPING IN KOREA

Korea i s , simply put , a shoppers ' paradise. Here you ' l l findincredibly low prices on clothing and most manufactured i tems, aswell as a variety of unique products tha t you ' l l buy as gif ts andsouvenirs.

There are probably hundreds of things you wil l want to purchase during your s tay, e i ther for yourself or for family andfr iends. Bargains in Korean artwork include celadon and porcelainpottery and vases, paint ings, call igraphy, and handicrafts .Brassware ranges from small decorative items a l l the way up toking-size brass beds. Lacquerware with mother-of-pearl inlay isavai lable in vases, jewelry boxes, and even furni ture . Speakingof furni ture , you can get good deals on copies of antique Koreanchests , desks, and dressers . These are made of wood with brasstrimmings and handles.

Other bargains include blankets and bedspreads (in fabricsl i ke

sat in and velvet ) ;s i lk

and brocade fabr ics ;s i lk

dresses,s h i r t s , and blouses; sportswear and sweaters; and a th le t ic shoesof a l l kinds--for basketbal l , racquetbal l , jogging, or jus t"hanging out ." As for clothing, not only can you have su i ts ordresses custom-tai lored, but you can also order leather boots ,jackets or coats made to measure. Use your own design or copyanother s ty le ; i f you can sketch i t , they can produce i t .

You can also buy jewelry ( jade, amethyst, and smoky topaz);sports and camping equipment; luggage of a l l sor ts and s izes ;eelskin be l t s , walle ts , and handbags; and toys, dol ls , and stuffedanimals for children. Korean elect ronic items have become moreand more popular l a te ly , due to the i r improved qual i ty , and you

can find everything from personal radios to te levis ion sets forsa le .

Jus t as there ' s a variety of things to buy, there is also avariety of places to shop, ranging from modern department storesto farmers ' markets. Below is a general l i s t of places to shopin the Seoul area , arranged roughly from the most expensive tothe l e a s t expensive:

- -ho te l g i f t shops and duty-free shops

--high-fashion shops and boutiques (especially in theMyongdong and Insadong areas)

--major department s tores

--smal l , independent shops and s tores

- - the It 'aewon shopping d i s t r i c t

--East Gate and South Gate markets

28



East Gate Market (Tongdaemun shijang) i s the largest in Korea,and maybe the largest in a l l of Asia. I t s t re tches indoors andoutdoors for over two miles. The outdoor market is surrounded byshops, including a four-story building special iz ing in qui l t s ,blankets, bedspreads, s i lks , sa t in s , and other fabr ics . At EastGate you can find everything from toys and sporting goods toclothing and furni ture .

South Gate Market (Namdaemun shi jang) i s the second majormarket. Here you ' l l find a wholesale flower market; vases,pot tery, porcelain; costume jewelry; chi ldren 's clothing; and evencamping equipment.

The It 'aewon shopping d i s t r i c t , though smaller , may be the bestfor American shoppers. Located near Yongsan Garrison, I t 'aewon'smany shops offer almost everything l i s ted above. This area catersto Americans: larger s izes in clothing and shoes may be foundhere, most of the salespeople speak a t leas t a l i t t l e English, andAmerican money is accepted everywhere.

Like Seoul, other large Korean ci t ies wil l have departments tores and hotel shops, as well as the usual markets and smallshops. Smaller c i t i e s wil l normally have "market days" once ortwice a month, in addition to the shops. On these days, loca lfarmers and t radespeople bring in everything from l ivestock andproduce to handiwork such as sewing and kni t t ing .

u.S. currency is readily accepted in towns around mil i tarybases, and in tou r i s t hotels and shops. However, away from downtown Seoul and mili tary camps you may find tha t some shopkeeperswil l not accept dol la rs . To avoid inconvenience, you shouldexchange money before going shopping in the marketplaces anddepartment s tores .

In department s tores , hotel shops, and bout iques, prices arenormally marked on each i tem. However, in individually-ownedsmall shops ·and in marketplaces, goods for sale are not marked.This means you ' l l have to do a l i t t l e bargaining with the owner toget the best price. Ask "How much?"; offer less than tha t (maybehalf or two-thirds of his pr ice) , then l e t your finances and youract ing abi l i ty d ic ta te the res t . Don't be embarrassed aboutbargaining; the Korean people bargain when they shop too.

As a general ru le , DON'T t ry to bargain when prices are postedor items are tagged. This includes department s tores , grocery

s tores , res taurants , and bars and nightclubs. Feel free to bargainin small s tores and open markets, and with pushcart vendors.

In the It 'aewon area or in vi l lages adjacent to mil i tary bases,you may be able to do most or even a l l of your shopping usingEnglish. However, you wil l probably have to use Korean in otherareas.

29



RESTAURANTS AND FOOD

Dining out in Korea i s , in many ways, s imi la r to dining outin the St a t e s . You can go to Seoul fo r an expensive gourmetdinner , or go to a sma l l e r , l e s s fancy r es tau ran t and spend l e ss

money, or pick up a quick snack from a s t r e e t vendor or a f r i e d food stand on th e s t r e e t . Restauran t s in Korea may be dividedin to four groups , in terms of th e food they se rve : Korean,Chinese , Japanese, and Western-s ty le .

Western-s ty le r e s t a u ra n t s , i f they a re in th e major t o u r i s th o t e l s , gene ra l ly serve exce l len t (but expen sive) meals. Othersw i l l be cheaper but may vary grea t ly in the food served . The

" I t a l i a n" or "Mexican" dishes in some res t au ran t s may be d i f fe ren t from what you 've been used to . (This i s due to d i f f e r e n tcooking methods and the f a c t t ha t some ingredients wi l l be unava i lab le in Korea.) Your bes t bet for Western-s ty le food a t

reasonab le pr ices i s th e Nai ja Hotel r e s t a u ra n t . This ho te l ,

loca ted in Seoul , i s an o f f i c i a l R&R f a c i l i t y fo r U.s . Armed

Forces personnel .

Korean, Chinese, and Japanese res t au ran t s wi l l a l so varyamong themselves in p r i c e , j u s t as a McDonald 's , a Denny's and aHoliday Inn d i f f e r in pr ice . The most expensive Orien ta l - s ty le

res t au ran t s wi l l be a t th e major ho te l s , with the l e a s t expensivebeing th e smal l Korean res t au ran t s known simply as shik tangs .

It i s safe t o ea t Or ien ta l - s ty le food in r es tau ran t s throughoutKorea; however, two recommendations should be fol lowed in th e

smal le r r e s t a u ra n t s . F i r s t , avoid Japanese -s ty l e dishes with rawf i sh , unless you know the f i sh i s f r esh . Second, you may want to

order bo t t l ed beer or soda with your meal s ince not a l l areas

have water approved for dr inking. (However, these are not

problems a t th e Nai ja Hotel or a t th e downtown ho te l s . )

Regardless of th e type of food served , many Korean r es tau ran t s

display p l as t i c models of th e food they se rve with th e pr ices

c lea r ly v i s i b l e . A ll you have to do i s poin t to ~ h a t e v e r looksgood. Or i f someone e l se has ordered a dish t ha t looks appe t iz ing ,

j u s t poin t to t h a t and the wai t ress wi l l unders tand. Later , wr i te

down the name of th e food you l ike (o r ask th e wai t ress to ) andsoon you ' l l have your own list of fami l i a r , favor i t e foods.

Some res t au ran t s prov ide i nd iv idua l menus which may o r may nothave English t r a ns l a t i ons . (Those near mil i t a ry bases usua l ly

do.) Some wi l l have one l a rge menu posted on the wal l . Others

w i l l not have a menu, because they spec ia l i ze in cer t a in di shes .Here y o u ' l l j u s t have to ask i f what you want i s ava i lab le .

The t r ad i t i ona l Korean meal inc ludes r i c e and soup, eachserved in i nd iv idua l bowls, and a number of s ide dishes served insmal le r bowls or d ishes . Unlike American-s ty le r i ce , th e steamedr i c e ea ten in Korea i s mois t and s t i cky . The s ide dishes are

almost always d i f f e r e n t types of vege tables , but one s ide dish you

30



w i l l always see i s kimch ' i . Kimch ' i i s usua l ly made with cabbage,but rad i shes , t u rn ips or cucumbers can also be used. The cabbagei s mixed with red pepper , ga r l i c and ginge r , and pickled in s a l tbr ine . It's a peppery, spicy d ish , ranging from merely hot to

inc redib ly f i e ry . (Be warned: The redder the co lo r , th e ho t te r

th e kimchi w i l l be . )

You can order the t r a d i t i o n a l meal of r i c e , soup, and s ide

dishes simply by asking fo r paekban. I f you order a main courseof meat or f i s h , and want t h i s combination t oo , j u s t say paekbanr igh t a f t e r th e name of the dish you've chosen.

NOTE: Tipping i s not customary in Korea, and the re fo re notusua l ly expected. However, in r e s t au r an t s or c lubs s pe c i f i c a l l yfo r American se rv ice personnel , you ' re expected to t ip as you

would in th e s t a t e s . Restaurants in t o u r i s t ho te l s gene ra l ly adda 10% gra tu i ty tax ( t ip ) to your b i l l when adding it up; i f so , no

add i t iona l t ip i s expected. Check f i r s t - - t h e r e ' s no need to t iptwice!

COFFEE SHOPS AND TEA ROOMS

In th e c i t i e s , Koreans of ten use cof fee shops as meetingplaces , e i the r fo r bus iness purposes or fo r pleasure . Theseshops are found almost everywhere in c i t i e s , and even smal lv i l l ages have one or two. A coffee shop, ca l l ed a tabang ort a sh i l , serves d i f f e re n t kinds of nonalcohol ic beverages , andgenera l ly plays a cer t a in type of recorded music as a background.Some play c l a s s i c a l , some Western rock and r o l l , some Koreanpop music, and so on. You can spend t ime here drinking cof fee ,

reading, t a lk ing , wai t ing , or j u s t re lax ing and l i s t en ing to

music. As long as you order something to drink when you f i r s tente r the cof fee shop, you ' re usua l ly welcome to s tay as long asyou l i ke .

NIGHTLIFE

Whether you ' re s ta t ioned in th e Seoul area or v i s i t th e c i ty

on your weekends or days of f , be sure to check out th e e n t e r t a i n ment Seoul o f fe r s . There ' s a lo t to do a f t e r th e sun goes down.

Night l i f e poss i b i l i t i e s range from conce r t s , dinner t hea te r anddiscos to beer ha l l s , stand bars and curbs ide t en ted s t a l l s t ha t

serve food and a lcohol . You can f ind almost every type in th e

Myongdong and Mugyodong areas of Seoul . These neighborhoods,both within walking di s t ance of c i ty ha l l and th e downtown ho te l s ,

are very popular with col lege s tudents and other young people .

31



Both Myongdong and Mugyodong have beer ha l l s t h a t of fe r

var ie ty ente r ta inment , including everything from t r a d i t i ona l songsto pop music and rock and r o l l . Some of th e en t e r t a in e r s move

from club to club a l l evening long, so you can s tay in th e same

club and still see severa l d i f f e r e n t a c t s . Beer i s th e mainre f reshment a t these ha l l s , but you can a l so ge t s o f t drinks orWestern-s ty le (Korean-made) l i quor by th e b o t t l e . Most beer ha l l s

o f fe r menus ranging from an ju , which i s snacks served with drinks(usual ly peanu ts , dr ied f i sh or both ) , to complete dinne rs .

More s t y l i s h , and more expens ive , a re Seou l ' s d i scos . These

a re located in th e c i t y ' s major ho te l s , in th e Myongdong a rea ,

and a lso in th e Shinsadong area j u s t south of th e Han R i v e r ' ~ Some discos have Korean rock bands, but most have DJs playingrecorded music. Korean discos usua l ly have a su b s t a n t i a l covercharge or a minimum, or both .

Mugyodong of fe r s a t h ea t e r r e s t a u ra n t , cabare t s , and beerha l l s and t ave rns . Beer i s ava i lab le and cheap in stand bars ,

where you s tand up a t counters or a t the bar to dr ink , and also

a t f ranch i se shops run by the brewer ies .

I f you prefe r discos and clubs wi th more of an American

atmosphere , the place to go i s I taewon. There are n ightclubs onboth s ides of th e main s t r e e t and along th e a l leys running southfrom th e s t r e e t . The music here i s loud and cur ren t , including

country and western , sou l , jazz and rock. The clubs have no covercharges or requ i red minimums, and you can g et mixed drinks as wel las bo t t l ed beer .

SPORTS AND GAMES

Tr ad i t i o n a l forms of r ec rea t ion in Korea include t 'aekwondo,th e o ld es t of the mar t i a l a r t s , as wel l as th e games of paduk,changgi , hwat 'u , and yu t . Brie f descr ip t ions of these l a s t fourgames fo l low:

paduk

changgi

hwat 'u

a board game played by two persons . Playerst ake turns p ut t ing markers on th e board,at tempt ing t o con t ro l t e r r i t o ry by surroundingareas on the board.

a Korean chess game. Pieces rep re sen t kings,

horses , e lephants , and s o ld i e r s , and move in a

manner s imi l a r to Western chess .

a popular card game played with smal l ,

br ight ly-colored f lower cards . The 48 cardsare divided in to 12 s u i t s , one fo r each month

of the year . Hwat'u of ten involves gambling.

32



a game played with four small s t i cks , eachround on one side and f l a t on the other .These are thrown l ike dice; how they landdetermines the number of moves a player makes.This can be played inside with a board oroutside on the open ground.

other Korean games include swinging, seesawing, and ki tef lying. These are usual ly seasonal games, and p l aya large par tin t rad i t iona l holiday celebrat ions.

Nontradi t ional sports are soccer , basebal l , table tennis andvol leybal l . (Baseball is becoming increasingly popular: thereare 11 semi-pro teams and a professional basebal l league has beenes tabl ished .) Golf and tennis are also played by Koreans.

As for mil i tary fac i l i t i e s , most of the la rger posts havefu l l -s ize gymnasiums, tennis and racquetball courts , and even an

outdoor swimming pool or two. Military units usual ly se t upintramural footbal l , sof tba l l , and basketball teams. Competitionin these sports begins a t uni t levels and goes a l l the way toregional championships and al l -Korea tournaments for U.S. mil i taryteams.

I f sports are not for you, remember that even in Korea yourrecreat ional fac i l i t i e s wil l be very much l ike those Stateside.Barracks dayrooms and lounges offer pool and ping-Pong tables .Craft shops provide equipment and ins t ruct ion for your hobbies,and of course there are movie theaters and l i b ra r i es . In addit ionto tours , recreation centers offer classes in the Korean language,in ar ts and craf t s , and even in t 'aekwondo, kung-fu, and yoga.

The Korean countryside also offers many opportunit ies forrecrea t ion . In the winter there is ice skating, and ski ing a tthe Dragon Valley resor t . Mountain climbing and hiking are bothpopular with Koreans. You can rent or buy a bicycle to explorethe countryside or get to your favori te f ishing spot. Whereveryou go, be sure to take your camera along!

33



UNIT 6. ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

OFF-LIMITS AREAS

cer ta in areas or establishments may be designated as off- l imits

areas by mil i tary commanders. Specif ic off - l imi t s establishmentsinclude a l l Korean drugstores, barbershops, and beauty parlors . Inthe case of the l a s t two, th is is due to possible heal th and sani t a t ion problems. Korean drugstores may dispense medicines tha t areunapproved or unsafe. Do not use these establ ishments.

Other areas or businesses may be placed off- l imits on a temporary basis by the local commander. These are usually bars orres taurants tha t have impure water or unsanitary condit ions or aregui l ty of discr iminatory pract ices . Off- l imits areas areestablished as a form of protect ion, not as a res t r ic t ion, and mustbe s t r i c t ly observed.

IF YOU NEED HOUSING

I f you are mili tary and serving an accompanied tour , you wil lreceive an appropriate housing allowance while in Korea. Governmentquarters are l imited , although large complexes have recently beenbui l t near Yongsan Garrison in Seoul and a t Os an AFB to the south.Nongovernment housing avai lable includes Western-style apartments,Korean-style homes, and smaller , more primit ive dwellings called"hooches" by Americans.

Finding quarters on the Korean economy is best accomplished byword-of-mouth. Friends or coworkers can t e l l you about vacancies

near them, and those people preparing to leave Korea will createvacancies. They can recommend landlords, give est imates on thecost of u t i l i t i e s , and provide other information. Take advantageof what they already know.

Renting wil l take one of several forms: you may make regularmonthly payments, you may give the landlord "key money" and pay nomonthly rent a t a l l , or you may combine a small "key money" paymentwith reduced rent . "Key money" consis ts of a large, one-time payment made when you move in . When you move out , your key money isreturned.

The landlord uses the key money as he pleases, usual ly invest

ing i t ra ther than banking i t . Since a bad investment could delayor even prevent repayment to you, paying rent regularly may be moreat t rac t ive .

34



FAMILY MEMBERS: FACILITIES AND SERVICES

I f you a re mil i t a ry and serv ing a command-sponsored (accompanied) tou r , you a re au thor ized to have your family members withyou in Korea. This means they w i l l be flown to Korea a t governmentexpense and w i l l be al lowed a l l t h e i r regu la r p r i v i l e g e s , such asthe use of commissar ies , exchanges and hea l th -ca re f a c i l i t i e s .

A noncommand-sponsored t ou r is without family members. I fyou w i l l be serving t h i s kind of tour (unaccompanied) , you a re

s t rongly discouraged from bringing your family to Korea. F i r s t ,

you w i l l not be reimbursed for t h e i r t r a v e l cos t s ; you have to payt h i s yourse l f . Second, due to th e l imi ted f a c i l i t i e s and th e

ce i l ing placed on the family member populat ion they w i l l not beauthorized commissary, exchange, housing and other p r i v i l e g e s .

A FEW FINAL TIPS

Of course, a book l ike th i s cannot poss ib ly cover everything

you wil l need to know about Korea. Fortuna te ly , you wi l l rece ive

severa l requ i red br ie f ings upon your a r r i v a l in t h a t country . The

subjec ts w i l l range from persona l hea l th to exchange r a t e s to

r a t ion con t ro l procedures . Addi t iona l ly , your l ega l s t a tus as agues t and as a so ld ie r in Korea w i l l be expla ined to you.

I f you wish to l ea rn more about Korea, the next page l i s t ssevera l books t ha t may be he lp fu l . Also, be sure to check withyour l oca l t r anspor ta t ion off i ce before you go overseas ; theyw i l l have informat ion packets on Korea t ha t you may keep.

Remember t ha t you a re a gues t in Korea; i f you a c t l ike a goodgues t , yo u w i l l be t rea ted as one. Get to know your host country ,

but play it sa fe and avoid discuss ing po l i t i c s or c r i t i c i z i ng th e

country. Use your of f -du ty t ime to t r a v e l , shop, t ry new foodsand pursue your hobbies and i n t e re s t s . The more you take advantage of your f ree t ime, the more y o u ' l l enjoy Korea and your tour

of duty the re .

Good luck and annyonghi kaseyo!

35



SOME BOOKS OF INTEREST

FOR HANDY REFERENCE

Adams, Edward B. Korea Guide. Seoul , Korea: Seoul In te rna t iona l

Tour i s t Publishing Company, 1983.

Bunge, Freder ika M., ed . South Korea: A Country Study.prepared by Foreign Area Stud ies (FAS> of The AmericanUnivers i ty . Washington, D.C.: U.S. Government pr in t ing

Off ice , 1975.

Crane, Paul S. Korean Pat t e rns . Seoul , Korea: Royal Asia t ic

Soc ie ty , Korea Branch, Handbook Ser ies , Number 1, 1976.

Facts about Korea. Seoul , Korea: Korean Overseas Informat ionService , Minis t ry of Cul tu re and Information, 1976.

A Pocket Guide to Korea. Published by U.S. Department of Defense,Office of Informat ion fo r th e Armed Forces. Washington, D.C.:U.S. Government Pr in t ing Off ice , 1974.

FOR IN-DEPTH STUDY

Barnds, Wil l iam J . , ed. The Two Koreas in East Asian Affa i r s .

New York: New York Univers i ty Pre ss , 1976.

Choy, Byong-youn. Korea, a His tory . Rutland, vermont:Tu t t l e , 1971.

Han Woo-Keune The History of Korea. Seoul , Korea:Eul-yoo Publ ish ing Company Ltd . , 1970.

Keon, Michael . Korean Phoenix, a Nation from th e Ashes.Englewood Cl i f f s , N. J . : Pren t ice -Hal l , 1977.

Rut t , Richard . Korean Works and Days. Seoul , Korea:Royal Asia t ic Socie ty , Korea Branch, 1964.

36



37



KEY TO SEOUL CITY MAP

Placename

1 . Bugak Skyway ( scen ic dr ive)

2. Kyongbok Palace (with the

National and Folk Museums)

3. The Capi to l Building andKwanghwa Gate

4. Changdok Palace and the Secre t

Gardens

5. Changgyong Gardens

6. NaijaR&R

Hote l

7. Sejong Cul tu ra l Center

8 . Chogye Buddhis t Temple

9. Shopping area fo r a r t ,ant iques , handicraf ts

10. Yi dynasty roya l shr ine

11. East Gate Market

12. East Gate

13. Seoul Stadium

14. Duksoo Palace

15. Seoul Ci ty Hall

16. Nightclub and disco area

17. Downtown ho te l area

18. Nightc lub , disco , and

boutique area

19. South Gate

20. South Gate Market

21. Seoul Railroad Sta t ion

38

Korean Pronunicat ion

Boo-gak Sky-way

Kyung-boke-goong

Joong-ang-chong andKwang-hwa-mun

Chang-doke-goong andPee-wahn

Chang-gyung-wahn

Nay-jah Hote l

Say-jong mun-hwa hway-gwan

Cho-gyay-sah

Een-sah-dong

Chong-myo

Tong-day-mun she- jang

Tong-day-mun

Soul oon-dong-jang

Duck-soo-goong

She-chong

Moo-gyo-dong

So-gong-dong

Myung-dong

Nam-day-mun

Nam-day-mun she- jang

Soul-yoke



22. Seoul Tower (with r es tau ran t s

and cab le car )

23. u . s .o . ( tour of f i c e , lounge,and snack bar)

24. Shopping area most popularwith Americans

25. National Theater

26. Seoul (Horse) Racecourse

27. Chi ld ren ' s Grand Park

28. Disco and nigh tc lub a rea

Soul Tau-wah

u.S.O. (you may have to

repea t th i s a fewt imes fo r Koreans)

Ee-tay-wahn

Goong-neep-gook-jang

Soul Kyung-mah-jang

O-rin-ee tay-gong-wahn

Shin-sah-dong

NOTE: The pronuncia t ion shown above i s not th e o f f i c i a l way

Koreans would wri te words in our a lphabe t ; however,saying the placenames t h i s way should g e t you whereyou want to go without too much t roub le .

*u.s. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: 1985-584-396

dli korean headstart cultural notes

Documents