Turkish by NathaN FoNg

PhotograPhy by Michel chicoiNe

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Flying over the Former ancient metropolis of Constantinople, the once-glorious capital of the roman, byzantine, Latin and ottoman Empires, I was overwhelmed by the sheer scope and size of ‘new’ Istanbul. this ancient city, which had been engrained in my memory since I was

a child attending bible classes, has always been an area of intrigue, from its tumultuous beginnings under the Eastern orthodox Christians of the byzantine Empire, to its capture by the ottoman Empire, and final collapse in 1923 when the country was replaced by the new republic of turkey, named after its founder, Mustafa atatürk. the capital was moved to ankara, and the renamed Istanbul continued to thrive and grow as one of the most historically rich and diverse financial cities in the world.

It is a city divided by polarizations, yet everything seems to work and blend harmoniously. once the largest and wealthiest city in the Eastern Mediterranean, its fortune was due to its strategic position on the famed Silk road trading route between the aegean and black Seas, at the meeting point between Western Europe and the glorious wealth and mystique of continental asia… making it the only transcontinental city in the world!

Driving through this traffic-crazed urban agglomeration of some 14 million, one forgets that the city was built along the steep shoreline of the swift-paced bosphorus, the straight that forms the boundary between Europe and asia, not to mention the soaring hills and narrow roadways that were originally built for horse and carriage. Istanbul’s lack of a decent rapid transit system and the challenges it offers the automobile are thought to be the main reasons Istanbul did not get the nod for the summer olympics in 2020.

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Where on earth

Turkey

ServeS 6–8

Muhammarar o a s t e d r e d p e p p e r s a r e b l e n d e d w i t h w a l n u t s , o l i v e o i l a n d c u m i n t o m a k e a w o n d e r f u l h o t p e p p e r d i p . o r i g i n a l l y m a d e w i t h t h e f a m e d a l e p p o p e p p e r s f r o m s y r i a , t h i s p o p u l a r d i p i s f o u n d t h r o u g h o u t t h e m i d d l e e a s t a s w e l l a s t u r k e y. t h i s r e c i p e i s f r o m ‘ i n t h e K i t c h e n w i t h s e l i n ’ t u r k i s h F l a v o u r s C o o k i n g C l a s s i n i s t a n b u l .

1 Or pomegranate molasses.

red Bell Peppers 3 large

Walnuts 1 3/4 cups

tomato Paste 1 tbs

Bread Crumbs 3/4 cup

extra-Virgin olive oil 3/4 cup

Lemon Juice1 freshly squeezed, 1 tbs

hot red Pepper coarsely ground, 1 tsp

Cumin Seed 1 tsp

Salt and Freshly Ground Black Pepper to taste

1 roaSt the peppers over a gas flame or under a broiler, turning with tongs, until they are completely charred. Transfer the peppers to

a paper bag and seal tightly, or place into a deep bowl and cover tightly with plastic wrap. let peppers sit until cool enough to handle, about 15 minutes, then slip off the charred skins and remove seeds from the interior.

2 PLaCe the walnuts in a food processor and pulse several times until they are coarsely ground. add the peppers and pulse several times. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and add the remaining ingredients and process into a coarse paste, scraping down from time to time. Season with salt and pepper, or with the other ingredients until desired texture and taste. Serve with warm pita or naan.

3 MuhaMMara can be kept in an air-tight container for up to a week.

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clockWise FroM top leFt Xxxxxx

ServeS 4

Menement h i s p o p u l a r t u r K i s h d i s h c o m p r i s e s o f m o i s t s c r a m b l e d e g g s g e n t l y m i x e d w i t h o n i o n , p e p p e r s , t o m a t o e s , f e t a c h e e s e a n d r e d p e p p e r f l a k e s i s u s u a l l y s e r v e d w i t h w a r m p i t a .

olive oil 1 tbs

Butter 1 tbs

onion ½ small, finely chopped

Green Pepper 1 small, cored and seeded, finely diced

Green onions 2 finely sliced

tomatoes 4, finely diced

red Pepper Flakes 2 tsp

eggs 8

Feta Cheese 4 oz, crumbled

Salt and Freshly Ground Black Pepper to taste

1 heat the butter and olive oil in a medium sized frying pan over medium-low heat.

2 Stir in the onion and bell pepper and sauté for a couple of minutes or until soft.

3 add the green onions, tomatoes and red pepper flakes. Mix well.

4 Beat the eggs into a bowl and add the feta cheese and combine well.

5 Stir in the egg mixture to the tomato mixture and stir well.

6 SCraMBLe until the eggs are just set, retaining their moisture. Season and serve immediately.

pau

l keller

as our driver inches through the crowded streets, we are in awe of the countless palaces, imperial mosques and minarets that line Istanbul’s hills, reminders of the city’s previous central role. We arrive at one of the city’s famous buildings, now the Ciragan Palace Kempinski Istanbul hotel. originally built as a private palace for the ottoman Sultan abdülâziz in 1872, the ornate residence was destroyed by a spectacular fire in 1910 that left only the outer walls standing. the property stood in ruins for decades until the hotel chain renovated it, bringing back its former opulence, in one of the signature hotels in the city. Dining at the tugra restaurant (tugra means ‘Signature of the Sultan’) is the ultimate ottoman dining experience. Set in the hotel’s historic palace wing with its ornate, vaulted marble ceilings, sumptuous crystal chandeliers and breathtaking views of the bosphorus, it is certainly one of the most romantic dining venues I have ever seen.

the style of cuisine, rich with ingredients from along the Silk road, includes a cornucopia of hot and cold mezze starters, vegetable salads (not the leafy lettuce varieties we’re most familiar with) and ornately presented entrees of meats and wonderful seafood.

… Nothing is more Ottoman than aromatic

kalbuni rice pilaf…

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Cook it

ServeS 6

Cheese Borekt u r K i s h C u i s i n e i s K n o w n F o r i t s m a n y v a r i e t i e s o f l a y e r e d p i e s a n d p a s t r i e s c a l l e d b o r e k . t h i s p o p u l a r b a k e d o r f r i e d p a s t r y i s m a d e w i t h y u f k a , w h i c h i s s l i g h t l y t h i c k e r t h a n f i l o , b u t i s h a r d t o f i n d , s o f i l o i s a r e a d y s u b s t i t u t e . b o r e k i s m a d e w i t h c h e e s e , s p i n a c h a n d h e r b s o r a r o m a t i c m i n c e d m e a t i n f u s e d w i t h s p i c e s a n d c a n b e m a d e i n a p a n a n d p o r t i o n c u t , o r a s i n d i v i d u a l p a s t r i e s .

Feta Cheese 8 oz, crumbled

ricotta Cheese ½ cup

eggs 2 large, lightly beaten

italian Parsley chopped, 4 tbs

Filo dough 8 oz

unsalted Butter 4 oz, melted

1 heat oven to 375°F.

2 in a large bowl mix together feta, ricotta, eggs and parsley. Set aside.

3 unroLL the dough onto a clean work surface and cover

with a piece of plastic wrap, then with a damp towel. Brush the bottom of a 9 x 13" baking dish with butter, then lay down and sheet of filo and brush it with butter. Continue layering and brushing with butter until you have used up about half of the filo sheets (about 10) then evenly spread the filling. repeat with layering and buttering the remaining sheets on top of the filling.

4 With a sharp knife cut the borek into squares, making sure to cut through all the layers. place into the middle of the oven and bake until golden brown, about 40–50 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Salads, a relatively new menu item in turkey, began to appear towards the end of the ottoman Empire, as a seasonal meal during harvest. Salads are considered more than just a compliment to a meal and vary greatly, with combinations of cheeses, spices, dried fruits and fresh buffalo yogurt. at tugra, we’re introduced to a sublime mashed cucumber and pistachio salad, richly interwoven with dense yogurt infused with heady garlic, vivid green pistachios, and ruby pomegranate sauce.

During the ottoman Empire, people believed that soups were an ideal and healthy meal that satisfied one’s hunger easily. Soups were therefore one of the most important dishes that young women of marrying age cooked to prove their culinary talents, using recipes passed down through the generations. Many ottoman meals started with a soup course. a traditional fihi ma fih soup, based on chicken stock with morsels of chicken and duck, is enhanced with rice, dried cherries, pomegranate, almonds and beans, and finished with herbs and red pepper oil.

Külbasti is the method of quickly grilling thin cutlets, keeping the meat tender and moist. Flavourful grill-marked lamb loins are served on smoky-rich mashed eggplant with roasted tomatoes, pomegranate and red onion relish. and nothing is more ottoman than an aromatic kalbuni rice pilaf,

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studded with chickpeas, almonds, and black raisins, infused with cumin, mastic (the unique pine resin used in turkish cuisine) and the intensity of their beloved saffron.

the turkish enjoy their sweets and certainly the most renowned is baklava. although there is no well-documented history of this popular layered-filo sweet, it became characteristic of the cuisine of the former ottoman Empire. We visit one of the city’s most famous bakeries, Karaköy güllüoğlu. the güllü family has been known for baking the best of these delicate pastries since the 1800s. We’re taken to the main bakery kitchen a couple of blocks away from the store, where I’m entranced to see how the billowy-thin filo sheets are hand rolled. Expecting to see massive steel rollers producing these delicate sheets, I am impressed by the dexterity of these craftsmen, many who have worked for the family for generations, as they roll and layer the sheets with vivid green crushed pistachios and warm elixirs of melted butter. aromatic and hot from their ovens and quickly cut into diamond nuggets of gold, they’re doused with warm sugar syrup, cooled, then sent immediately for sale. Not usually one for sweets, I’ve never tasted such a delicacy — slightly warm, layers of crispness, with the intense sweetness softened by a garnish of clotted cream. heavenly!

In addition to all this eating, there’s always time for shopping, especially in Istanbul’s historic shopping districts, which include the covered grand bazaar, the outdoor Mahmutpasha bazaar and the 17th century Spice bazaar.

the famous grand bazaar, built in the shadows of the monumental hagia Sophia and blue Mosques, has been in operation since 1461 and is among the world’s oldest and largest covered markets. Some 4,000 shops offering jewelry, carpets and textiles compete for business in the hectic, overwhelming and somewhat mesmerizing maze. as a food writer, I much preferred the slightly smaller Spice bazaar where vendors hawk their vibrant array of herbs and spices, scented oils and waters, and wonderful powdery morsels of turkish Delight.

Famed for the variety of its architecture — primarily byzantine and ottoman — Istanbul is a vast collection of buildings that reflect the various peoples and empires that have ruled this metropolis. the pinnacle of byzantine style, hagia Sophia, stood for over 1,000 years as the largest cathedral in the world,

Vancouver born NathaN FoNg segued from cooking and catering to a brilliant career as a food and props stylist for culinary print and film advertising, with a distinguished international client list. He is celebrating his 25th year as a host on Global TV and has a new regular food and travel segment on ShawTV’s

The Rush. He is also a columnist for The Vancouver Sun and writes his popular blogs at www.vancouversun.com and www. fongonfood.com

before being converted into a mosque and now one of the city’s iconic museums. Diverse architectural styles are the hallmark of the topkapi, the royal residence and palace of the ottoman Sultans for some 400 years. the other renowned site is the immense, domed Sultan ahmed Mosque, popularly known as the blue Mosque for the blue tiles adorning the walls of its interior, built in 1609. Four Seasons hotels has two unique properties, one an intimate 65-room hotel housed in a neoclassically designed prison (the one featured in billy haye’s 1977 book Midnight Express) in the landmark neighbourhood of Sultanahmet, the other a spectacular converted ottoman palace set on the banks of the bosphorus.

Despite the vast area of the city, Istanbul is a great city to explore on foot. besides wandering on your own, there are excellent culinary walking tours. a highlight is a tour called two Markets, two Continents, by a company called Culinary backstreets, which explores the eateries in local markets on both sides of the bosphorus, crossing on the public ferry. Starting in the European Karakby area, we venture through the historic mariners’ neighbourhood of fish markets and ottoman caravanserai. after a glorious crossing, we walk through the beautiful stalls of flowers, fruits, seafood and vegetables in the restaurant and food-fixated streets of the Kadikoy area.

another tour, which starts in the sensorily-overloaded Spice Market, is led by cooking instructor Selin rozanes. after a session of spice tasting, we head to her home for a cooking class. our intimate group is taught several dishes, including a meze of artichokes braised in olive oil; a carrot dip heady with garlic and yogurt; muhammara, a vibrantly coloured and aromatic red pepper and walnut dip; baked stuffed eggplants and borek, the popular filo pastry layered with feta cheese and herbs.

We walk along Istiklai Street in the fashionable taksim area, with its cobbled streets and nostalgic tram to the Pera District, centre of urban life in the 19th century. after decades of neglect and disrepair, the neighbourhood bedecked in rustic charm has become the cosmopolitan heart of chic, modern day Istanbul.

From its historic beginnings Istanbul has become one of the worlds’ most cultured and culinary-obsessed cities. a quick jaunt through this amazing city doesn’t do it justice! I’ll be back soon!

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thanKs to unison TURKEY for organizing my cultural and culinary tour of Turkey. www.unisonturkey.com

the Four Seasons Bosphoruswww.fourseasons.com/bosphorus

the Shangri-la istanbulwww.shangri-la/istanbul

the Four Seasons Sultanahmetwww.fourseasons.com/istanbul

the Ciragan Palace Kempinski istanbul www.kempinski.com/en/istanbul/ciragan-palace

Selin rozanes Spice Market and Cooking Classwww.turkishflavours.com

istanbul eats/Culinary Backstreetswww.istanbuleats.com

istanbul Culinary institutewww.istanbulculinary.com.tr/eng

Karakoy GulluogluFor wonderful baklava.www.karakoygulluoglu.com/eng

Lokanta Maya Modern chic contemporary Mediterranean.

www.lokantamaya.com

Mikla, the Marmara Pera hotel Upscale modern Turkish with stunning rooftop views.www.miklarestaurant.com

Ciya Sofrasi Traditional old-style Turkish comfort cuisine.www.ciya.com.tr/index_en.php

tugra restaurantFor upscale Ottoman cuisine in a stunning Palace setting overlooking the Bosphorus.www.kempinski.com/en/istanbul/ciragan-palace

Gile restaurantModern Turkish/Mediterranean cuisine with a great bar.wwwgilerestaurant.com

inciralti MeyhanesiOld style Turkish cuisine in a local neighbourhood.www.inciralti.com.tr

Maria’nın Bahcesi Classic Turkish/Greek cuisine, outstanding seafood and wine list.www.marianinbahcesi.com

FoR THE EGGplanTSasian eggplants 4

Canola oil ½ cup

ServeS 4

KarniyarikS p l i t B e l l y S t u f f e d E g g p l a n t s

u s e t h e e l o n g at e d a s i a n s t y l e e g g p l a n t s a s t h e y a r e t e n d e r a n d s w e e t a n d p e r f e c t f o r t h i s c o m f o r t i n g t u r k i s h d i s h .

THE FillinGolive oil 1 tbs

onion 1 medium, finely chopped

Ground Beef or Lamb 8 oz

tomatoes 2 medium, skinned and coarsely chopped

Flat Leaf Parsley chopped, ½ cup

red Pepper Flakes 1 tsp

Sugar ½ tsp

Salt and Freshly Ground Black Pepper

tomatoes 2 medium, sliced

hot Water 1 cup (250 ml)

tomato Paste 1 tbs

red Pepper Paste or Chili Paste 1 tbs

olive oil 1 tsp (5 ml)

FoR THE EGGplanTS

1 uSinG a peeler, peel a strip of skin lengthwise off one side, then roll the eggplant a quarter turn and peel another strip. Continue until all four quarters have a strip removed.

2 heat the canola oil in a deep skillet over medium heat.

3 add the eggplants and sauté, turning over in the oil, until golden brown all around.

4 MaKe a slit lengthwise in the eggplant, leaving an inch at each end so that they remain in one whole piece. place them side by side in a single layer slit face up in a baking dish.

THE FillinG

5 heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. add the onion and sauté until lightly browned. add the meat and sauté for 10 minutes, then cover and cook over low heat until there is no moisture left. add the chopped tomatoes and cook for another 5 minutes. Mix in parsley, red pepper flakes, sugar and season with salt and pepper.

6 enLarGe the slit in each eggplant and stuff with the meat mixture. place a couple of tomato slices on top of each eggplant. Whisk together the hot water, tomato paste, red pepper paste and olive oil. pour around the eggplants. Bake 15–20 minutes in a preheated 350°F oven. Serve hot.

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