design and build a low maintenance perennial fruit and herb front garden

8/11/2019 Design and Build a Low Maintenance Perennial Fruit and Herb Front Garden

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2014

Marcus Busby

Permaculture News

8/15/2014

Design and Build a Low

Maintenance Perennial Fruit andHerb Garden (UK)


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Design and Build a Perennial Fruit and Herb Garden

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Design and Build a Low Maintenance Perennial Fruit

and Herb Front Garden (UK)Permaculturenews.org/2014/08/15/design-build-low-maintenance-perennial-fruit-herb-front-

garden-uk/

Published 15thAugust 2014

Not many people use their front garden. Front gardens are often laid to turf. Except for mowing the

grass, or using the front door, the front garden goes largely ignored. Some people plant a mixture of

plants including pollen plants which bring colour and can contribute towards the local ecosystem.

Using the following simple design, you can design and build your own garden, which will provide you

with fresh and seasonal fruit, herbs for the kitchen, for delicious healthy teas, plus lovely fragrances

and flowers throughout the year - with very little input. In fact this type of garden requires less

maintenance than the regularmowing of a lawn.

Introduction

This garden design focuses upon very low maintenance, perennial fruit and herb plants and easy

accessibility. It was an attempt at making a garden that might appeal to people even if they had not

heard of Permaculture as an alternative to their front lawn. It is meant to be highly functional whilst

looking attractive too. For this reason there is a wide path (90cm), quite a tall and easily accessible

herb spiral close to the kitchen, and generally easy access to all parts of the garden. It is true that

yield could be increased by intensive planting and introducing annual crop plants.

All the plants have been listed below if you have no idea where to start, these will get you off to a

good one. The names are in Latin so you can find the exact plants or very similar should you wish.The trees are specifically chosen for a small garden (on dwarfing root stocks) and are either self
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fertile or cross-pollinating. All the fruit providing plants have been chosen to give fruits throughout

the seasonearly, mid and late. You can always add more or choose different varieties.

The plan has a scale and orientation, why not adapt it to your front garden if you are looking for a

design? There are many great examples of herb spirals shared on the internet made from all sorts of

materials, choose a material which best suits you and treat yourself to a free and perpetual supply offresh and dried garden herbs.

All of the materials and plants came to a total of 1,025 GBP (approx $1,800). Allow around 10-14

days to gather materials and construct the garden. New materials were used throughout totaling

550 GBP (approx $950) so to save money, use reclaimed, recycled or found materials. The trees and

fruit bushes cost 140 GBP (approx $250) bought fromwww.hattensfarmnurseriesmetfield.co.uk.

The herbs and other plants cost a total of 335 GBP (approx $600). The herbs were bought from

www.laurelfarmherbs.co.ukand the other perennials and seeds fromwww.woottensplants.com.
http://www.hattensfarmnurseriesmetfield.co.uk/http://www.hattensfarmnurseriesmetfield.co.uk/http://www.hattensfarmnurseriesmetfield.co.uk/http://www.laurelfarmherbs.co.uk/http://www.laurelfarmherbs.co.uk/http://www.wootensplants.com/http://www.wootensplants.com/http://www.wootensplants.com/http://www.wootensplants.com/http://www.laurelfarmherbs.co.uk/http://www.hattensfarmnurseriesmetfield.co.uk/


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Survey

Make a rough sketch plan and annotate with measurements to make a scale drawing. Its really

worth doing a scale drawing as this helps to calculate the quantity of materials needed and the

number and positioning of plants. Once you have your base map drawn you can trace/photocopy it

to do sketch concepts that are in proportion. It can be helpful to draw a little sun shining towards

the garden to keep you orientated, and also a little stick person perhaps 1m80 tall/50cm wide on

your sketch plan to give you a context of scale.

Record all the information you can about the garden on your field sketch planmost important is

the aspect (to the sun) so use a compass ideally, otherwise at least note where the sun is and record

this on your sketch plan.

Note landscape feature such as wall, existing shrubs, plants and hedges, gates, pathways, taps, drain

covers, outdoor lights and plugs, it is also very helpful to know where any pipes or wires run

underground and to avoid planting trees and shrubs near these, and if digging deep down for any

reason, to exercise caution with your shovel!

Make a list, or take some photos of the existing shrubs if it is a clients gardenso you can easily refer

to these if working from home/away from the site.

Existing Shrubs in this garden (forming the surrounding hedge)

Hypericum perforatum

Berberis julianae

Viburnum tinus Rhododendron moerheim

Mahonia aquifolium

Buddleia davidii

Ceonothus sp.

Viburnum Sp.

Cotoneaster sp.

Syringa vulgaris

Potentilla fruticosa

Berberis sp.

Spirea sp.

Hydrangea macrophylla 'Variegata'

Philadelphus coronarius

Laurus nobilis

Rosa Sp. Pink

Rosa Sp. Red


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Assess

Consider the characteristics of the garden and site, think about all the potentials, imagine the garden

humming and buzzing with life and flowers, bring it to life in your mind and go through all the

features you noted in your survey, think about the potentials, whether its where and how you will

capture/collect water, or growing plants up or on something the design principles are excellent for

visualizing and covering all bases, plus acronyms such as PASE (Plants, Animals, Structures, Events),

even if its a little garden, you can still imagine friends and family visiting and how they may use the

garden, or if there is a toddlers birthday things that will delight them! Attracting animals or

accommodating for domestic pets, you may think about features such as pergolas for shade and

growing climbers or as in this case a herb spiral. REAP MORE (Reason, Explore, Assess, Place,

Maintain, Observe, Refine, Enjoy), all of these factors should be considered and projected into the

future when thinking about your design. If its not your garden you are designing, consider carefully

the needs and hopes of your client. If they work a lot, or go away often, or if they have children, are

active or not, social or keep themselves to themselves etc all these factors can influence your design

proposal.

Case Study

This garden has a great aspect with the sun blessing the garden most of the day. A south facing

garage wall just in the NE corner of the garden can be good for growing up. An existing concrete

path gives good access to the rear garden and all along the front garden. The garden already has one

existing triangular bed by the driveway and another bed under the kitchen window which is in shade

most of the day. The existing hedge is well established, a great windbreak and backdrop in the right

place - not shading the garden. Most of the existing shrubs are flowering and good for pollinators

too.

The soil is very dry, compacted and sandy, almost like rock! The garden has not been used for quite a

few years judging by all the metal and plastic that is grown into the lawn.

A few really rotten logs full of insects were placed carefully out of the way under the existing hedge

in the shade to preserve their habitat.

The garden already has some nice wild fennel, comfrey and a couple of roses that can all be easily

relocated. Transplant these into the shady bed by the house until replanting the following week,

water well when transplanting!

The client ideally doesnt want to have to do much gardening, only harvesting. The summers can behot and dry here, and the winters are pretty chilly being next to the North Sea. The client lives alone

and doesnt see her family much. She goes to the pub, social events and the theatre more than

having guests round generally speaking. She loves fruit trees, butterflies and the hum of bees. She is

very exuberant, colourful and a thespian! She is interested in herbs and the uses of them and would

like to get to know them. She is studying esoteric philosophy and astrology. She says I can do what I

want as long as there are fruit trees and no maintenance if possible. The budget is 10001500.


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Looking down on the newly completed garden

The main features of this garden are:

Herb spiral: with perennial kitchen herbs (Rosmarinus prostratus Spicata was planted at the

top, as this is dwarfing with a trailing habit).

Fruit Trees: Pear, Apple and Plum trees with a fan-trained Cherry, under-planted with guild

plants (pollinator plants, mulch plants, tap rooters, N fixers) including a great variety of

herbaceous perennials for culinary and medicinal use.

Fruit Bushes: A range of Raspberries, Gooseberries, Blackcurrants and Rhubarb with

cultivated and wild strawberries as groundcover.

Herbaceous Perennials: Under the fruit trees a range of culinary and medicinal herbs are

planted, mixed together with some of perennials which are really good for pollinating

insects. All of the plants in this garden produce flowers and many are aromatic.

Rose bed (with shade tolerant fragrant roses) with Sorrel, Strawberry, Garlic Chive (Allium

tuberosum) and French Sorrel (Rumex acetosa) for ground cover.


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Implement

Before (August) and the first summer after (June)

Materials

Below is a table with retail prices from a builders merchantin the UK as a guide. You can probably

be more creative in how you source your materials and save yourself a load of money!

Description Price (incl. delivery) GBP

1500kg Type one road stone (two large builders bulk bags)

1000kg 20mm Gravel (two large builders bulk bags)

180 red bricks (Tanner Red Mix)

200kg Soft sand

100kg sharp sand

3 bags cement

3 rolls of landscape membrane (for under the path)

17 x Gravel boards (22x150x3m/1x6x10)

20 wooden pegs

Cardboard - collected

Large trailer of woodchipdelivered

8 Bags Compost, Bonemeal, screws, diesel

Total:

85.75

71.55

150.17

22.56

11.28

15.33

32.71

75.31

15.04

0.00

20.00

50.00

549.70 (approx $950)

Garden Beds

The clippings and brush from the initial garden clearance/tidy were shredded with an electric

chipper and piled underneath upturned turves along with some sticks, small branches and some logs

to form new moundedHugelkulturebedsthis provides slow release humus, retains soil moisture.

Over time this will break down and create worm food! Adding nutrients and retaining moisture was

very important for the sandy dry soil here. The rotten logs that were in the garden were carefully

placed under the existing hedge to remain as insect houses. These insects are essential in the garden

for decomposing and composting, saving you some work! You may even get mushrooms, or

inoculate some logs/wood chippings yourself with plugs, e.g. Shiitake on Oak chips or best, Silver

Birch logs.
mailto:http://www.google.com/cse?cx=005882427699693072259:ras--hp8bwa&q=hugelkultur&oq=hugelkultur&gs_l=partner.3...1485499.1487326.0.1487744.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0.gsnos%2Cn%3D13...0.1965j507937j11..1ac.1.25.partner..0.0.0.%23gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=hugelkulmailto:http://www.google.com/cse?cx=005882427699693072259:ras--hp8bwa&q=hugelkultur&oq=hugelkultur&gs_l=partner.3...1485499.1487326.0.1487744.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0.gsnos%2Cn%3D13...0.1965j507937j11..1ac.1.25.partner..0.0.0.%23gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=hugelkulmailto:http://www.google.com/cse?cx=005882427699693072259:ras--hp8bwa&q=hugelkultur&oq=hugelkultur&gs_l=partner.3...1485499.1487326.0.1487744.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0.gsnos%2Cn%3D13...0.1965j507937j11..1ac.1.25.partner..0.0.0.%23gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=hugelkulmailto:http://www.google.com/cse?cx=005882427699693072259:ras--hp8bwa&q=hugelkultur&oq=hugelkultur&gs_l=partner.3...1485499.1487326.0.1487744.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0.gsnos%2Cn%3D13...0.1965j507937j11..1ac.1.25.partner..0.0.0.%23gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=hugelkul


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A Hugelkulture bed provides a long-term supply of organic matter and retains moisture.

Image source: Sepp Holzers Permaculture, p.40

Layering up the mini Hugelkulture beds: sticks, branches and logs at the bottom, chippings and clippingsnext, soil and upturned turves, followed by cardboard sheet mulch and a final layer of woodchips.


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Sheet mulching with cardboard and a layer of woodchips.

The mounded Hugelkulture beds were sheet mulched with cardboard (collected free of charge fromCo-operative Supermarket, you can use thick layers of newspaper equally as well). They were then

covered with 15cm of woodchip sourced from a local tree surgeon. In drier periods particularly,

water the beds well before sheet mulching them so you are locking in moisture as opposed to

blocking it out. When you layer the cardboard, once in position (making sure all the edges overlap by

15cm to make sure nothing can grow between the gaps) cover it with water so it goes floppy and

molds to the soil underneath. You can pin the cardboard down with sticks or bits of wire coat hanger

bent into a U-shape if needed. Try to cover with your top layer of mulch before the sheet mulch

dries out and starts to curl upwards. You are aiming to completely cover all the

cardboard/newspaper with woodchips/mulch. If you have a limited supply of top mulch available,

start with a thin layer all over, then top-up later once you have the whole mulch area covered to

avoid running out too soon and having to redo any work.


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Sheet mulch to block out the old lawn and turves. A good helping of horse manure too.

The horseshoe bed was designed so as to have easy access from both sides for harvesting thecurrants and berries. Upturned turfs were arranged in the bottom, covered with a bit of soil and

chippings, covered in cardboard to blot out any re-growth I didnt add the manure to the bottom

layer to avoid it feeding the old grass and encouraging it to grow. The nice helping of horse manure

which is easily available in the locality in sacks on the side of the road was placed on top of the

cardboard. Horse manure isnt particularly richin nutrients, but is a great source of humus; this was

mixed with some bags of soil conditioner/municipal compost collected from a local Council Recycling

centre and a sprinkling of organic chicken muck. If you have rotted manure itsgood for mixing in

with the soil and feeding the roots of your new plants directly. This was fresh manure so it was

placed on top of the sheet mulch, mixed with soil conditioner and clean soil, and covered with straw

mulch. The idea being that the fresh manure would breakdown in situ, blending with the soil and

conditioner, forming new topsoil for the following season. Make sure its not in contact with any of

your plant stems as fresh manure can burn or rot the stems of plants. Yes it smells but not for long!


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Gravel boards pegged in place.

The beds were layered as follows, from bottom to top: original soil, old lawn, turves of old lawn,

chippings from clearance, cardboard, horse manure and chicken muck, organic soil improver, straw

mulch. This was then ready to be planted with the berry bushes and a groundcover of strawberries.


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Landscaping complete, ready to plant!

Landscaped front garden, ready for planting!


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Planting

Select and plant fruits/herbs which you personally use most, and experiment with their location in

the garden. If you plant a plant in a position where its not doing well or is a problem, try it

somewhere else for a season in the garden. This way you will get to know the plants and your

garden well.

I followed Toby Hemenways book, Gaias Garden, as closely as possible. The book has excellent

diagrams for herb spirals, mulching, and detail on guild planting; for instance constructing an apple

tree guild, p150.

Planting the herb spiral

The herb spiral creates a good range of favourable conditions which can benefit a variety of species,

from dry-sunny to moist-shade.

Planting positions in the herb spiral depend on the position of the sun. Bear in mind that some herbs

such as Rosemary and Thyme love dry sunny positions, and herbs such as mint and violets are okayfor the less sunny moister spots. If you find you have planted an herb in a place where its either

taking over or hindering other plants (mint can do this!) or it's not doing so well, try moving it to

another position. The herbs planted in this spiral are as follows, from the top to the bottom:

Rosmarinus 'spicata' (prostratus sp.)

Origanum vulgare compactum

Salvia elegans 'Tangerine Sage'

Viola sp.

Artemesia dranunculus Thymus sp. 'Bad Hair Day'

Thymus pulegiodides 'Broadleafed Thyme'

Thymus pulegiodides 'Foxley'

Chamaemelum nobile 'Flore Pleno'

Viola sp. 'Lizzy Wooten'

Allium - thick leaved chives

Allium schoenoprasum polyvert

Petroselinum crispum 'Crispum'

Petroselinum crispum 'French'

Mentha x piperita f.citrata 'After Eights'

Mentha spicata 'Cyprus - Mint Sauce'

Allium cepa var. aggregatum

Diplotaxis muralis


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Herb and Groundcover Layer

Companion or guild plants were chosen and planted around the fruit trees, such as chives, common

chicory, bee balm, fennel, yarrow and comfrey. All the herbaceous perennials were planted into the

Hugelkulture beds. Apart from the chives, which were planted right around the bases of the fruit

trees, the guild plants were planted within the projected canopy of the fruit trees - so in close

proximity, but not in the way of being able to get to the tree for harvesting later on.

Make sure when planting new plants from pots that you dig a hole that is big enough, so as to not

have to pack in or squash the roots of your new plants. When you remove the plant from the pot,

just tap the rim of the pot and it will pop off. If not, look on the bottom of the pot and tear of any

roots. If there are some big looking roots then cut the plastic away. Use the pots to grow more

plants from seed, or for potting up. Portable living presents for friends and family!

Ruffle and free up the roots which may have become pot-bound. You are generally aiming for the

roots to be able to expand and spread out so as to gather water from a wide area, except for plants

with a tap root such as the Cichorium intybus(Common Chicory) where you can dig a deeper holeand unwind the tap root which, if grown in a pot, has probably had to coil up. The roots are so

important, it is essential you take care with them, dont leave plants out of their pots, else wind and

sun will quickly dry them up and destroy them reducing the chances of the plants survival.

Heres the list of plant species in this garden:

Herbaceous Perennials

Achillea millefolium 'Terracotta' -Yarrow

Achillea millefolium 'Martina' -Yarrow

Ajuga reptans 'Catlins Giant' -Bee Bonnet (Groundcover)

Ajuga reptans purpurea -Bee Bonnet (Groundcover)

Allium cepa aggregatum -Evergreen Chives

Allium schoenoprasum -Chives

Allium schoenoprasum 'Medium Leaf' -Chives

Allium tuberosum -Garlic Chives

Aquilegia vulgaris -Woodbine

Artemisia abrotanum -Southernwood

Astrantia major 'Buckland' -MasterwortAtriplex harimus -Sea Orach (Delicious salty salad leaf)

Bergenia cordifolia -Elephant's ears

Cichorium intybus -Common Chicory

Coreopsis verticillata 'Moonbeam'

Digitalis purpurea -Foxgloves

Dryopteris erythrosora -Autumn Fern

Echinacea purpurea 'Hot Summer'

Echinacea purpurea 'Magnus'

Filipendula ulmaria -Meadowsweet

Foeniculum officinale -Green Fennel


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Foeniculum vulgare 'Bronze' -Bronze Fennel

Foeniculum vulgare -Wild Fennel

Frageria Sp. (Honeoye, Alice, Symphony) -Early, Mid, Late Strawberries (G.Cover)

Frageria vesca -Wild Strawberry (Groundcover)

Galium odoratum -Sweet Woodruff

Geranium nodosum

Geranium pyrenaicum 'Bill Wallis'

Hemerocalis hyperion

Hemerocalis sp. -Day Lily

Hesperis matronalis -Sweet Rocket

Hyssopus officinalis -Hyssop

Lamium album 'Dead Nettle' -Dead Nettle

Lavandula sp.

Lavandula stoechas 'Fat Head Lavender'

Linum perenne 'Album' -Perennial Flax, LintLupinus 'La Chatelaine' -Pink Lupin

Lupinus 'La Pages' -Red Lupin

Lythrum salicaria 'Robert' -Purple Loosestrife

Melissa officinalis -Bee Balm, Lemon Balm

Mentha x piperata -Black Peppermint

Myrrhis odorata -Sweet Cicley

Myrtus communis -Myrtle

Nepeta officinalis -Catmint

Oenothera biennis -Evening Primrose

Origanum marjorana -Marjoram

Penstemon 'Pink Candy'

Phlox panniculata 'Blue Paradise'

Physostegia virginiana alba 'Summer Snow' -Obedient Plant

Rosmarinum officinalis 'Greek Ginger' -Rosemary

Rumex scutatus -French Sorrell

Salvia officinalis 'Purpurascens'

Salvia verticillata 'Purple Rain'

Sanguisorba minor -Salad Burnet

Santoline chamaecyparissus -Cotton Lavender

Satureja Montana -Winter Savory

Satureja spicigera -Creeping Savory

Scabiosa atropurprea -Sweet Scabious

Scabiosa atropurprea 'Chile Black' -Scabious (Dark red)

Sedum spectablie 'Indian Chief'

Symphytum officinale -Comfrey

Tanacetum parthenium -Feverfew

Teucrium x lucydris -Hedge Germander

Thymus herba-barona -Caraway Thyme

Thymus pulegioides 'Tabor'Thymus serphyllum 'Pink Ripple'


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Rosa 'Gertrude Jekyll' Yellow Smelly Rose

Rosa 'Teasing Georgia' Pink Smelly Rose

Rosa 'Sweet Juliet' Orangey Pink Smelly Rose

Tree Layer

I made sure that the fruit trees were planted in a place that meant when fully grown, they would

remain easily accessible, shaping them gradually as they mature. The key for pruning apple trees

is little and often. The key for pruning stone fruit trees is never in winter.

Malus 'Arthur Turner' MM106/2x/Aug-Oct Dwarf Arthur Turner Cooking Apple

Malus 'Self-fertile Cox' MM106/2x/Oct-Jan Dwarf Self Fertile Cox

Prunus avium 'Sunburst' Fan Trained Sunburst Cherry

Prunus 'Victoria Plum' Pixie Dwarf/1x/Aug-Sept Dwarf Victoria PlumPyrus 'Concorde' Quince 'A'/3/Oct-Jan Dwarfing Concorde Pear

Pyrus 'Doyene du Comice' Quince 'A'/3/Nov Dwarf Comice Pear

The freshly planted garden (September)


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Maintain, Assess, Refine, Evolve

Maintain

Revisiting the garden ten months later, the owner advised that there had been no maintenance. I

spent about 15 minutes pulling out some grass from around the edges, particularly the horseshoe

bed and a couple of little patches on the surrounding hegelkulture beds, the old existing concrete

path needed a sweep, but there was no maintenance other than that to do.

Revisiting the garden, ten months later in June, View from South East towards North West.

Observe

Being the first time I had used Cichorium intybus (Common Chicory), I was surprised at the size of

the plant and its appearance - being similar to a thistle. Good leafy mulch provider and dynamic

accumulator tap root.

More strawberries needed planting in the horseshoe bed to get the full groundcover effect under

the berry and currant bushes. It was good to see the herbs beginning to form their little clumps.

There was a hole in the herb spiral where the Tangerine Sage had beenit is a really beautiful plant,

perhaps a magpie had whisked it away!

A watertight herb spiral shape probably serves no function with regards to growing physically

healthier herb plants, but using mortar to fix the blocks meant a tighter and taller herb spiral could

be constructed without risk of collapsereducing repair work later.


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Revisiting the garden, ten months later in June, view from NESW.

YieldsTime saving per year; its easier to say that the lawn didnt need mowing anymore, and only one visit

was necessary for maintenance, so 15 minutes for the first twelve monthsnot bad.

No fuel or electricity used for the mower, no time needed to mow the lawn = a saving of 7 hours a

year mowing time, no need to buy herbs; some free berries and currants the first year, gradually

food and herb yields will increase especially when the fruit trees begin producing.

Refine

Most important of all: install water butts in your garden to harvest rainwater! This property had a

big one in the rear garden, however the front garden needs one too. You can never have too manywater butts for back up!

Planting Lessons

Dont plant rhubarb in full sun because it bolts, especially in dry soils.

Be aware that Cichorium intybus looks like a common thistle or a weed to the naked eye, but it has

that big tap root for drawing up and accumulating nutrients, pretty blue flowers, and it creates

biomass/leaf mulch.


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Evolve

Keep your garden evolving and growing; keep feeding it and it will keep feeding you.

Ideally, top up the woodchips each year as they will break down gradually, and keep an eye on

encroaching strawberries and the spread of plants generally; separate and replant their new growth.

Its good to keep adding new plants generally to keep the garden evolving and maturing!

References

Books

Holzer, S. (2012) Sepp Holzers Permaculture A Practical Guide for Farms, Orchards & Gardens.

Permanent Publications.

Hemenway, T. (2000) Gaias Garden A Guide to Home-Scale Permaculture.Chelsea Green

Publishing Company.

Websites

Original Article:

www.permaculturenews.org/2014/08/15/design-build-low-maintenance-perennial-fruit-herb-front-

garden-uk/

God on Lawns:

www.permaculturenews.org/2010/10/08/god-on-lawns/

Hugelkulture Beds:

http://www.google.com/cse?cx=005882427699693072259:ras--

hp8bwa&q=hugelkultur&oq=hugelkultur&gs_l=partner.3...1485499.1487326.0.1487744.0.0.0.0.0.0.

0.0..0.0.gsnos%2Cn%3D13...0.1965j507937j11..1ac.1.25.partner..0.0.0.#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=hugelkultu

r&gsc.page=1

East Anglian Plant Suppliers (UK):

Herbs:www.laurelfarmherbs.com

Herbaceous Perennials:www.woottensplants.com

Fruit trees and Roses:www.hattensfarmnurseriesmetfield.co.uk
http://www.permaculturenews.org/2014/08/15/design-build-low-maintenance-perennial-fruit-herb-front-garden-uk/http://www.permaculturenews.org/2014/08/15/design-build-low-maintenance-perennial-fruit-herb-front-garden-uk/http://www.permaculturenews.org/2014/08/15/design-build-low-maintenance-perennial-fruit-herb-front-garden-uk/http://www.permaculturenews.org/2010/10/08/god-on-lawns/http://www.permaculturenews.org/2010/10/08/god-on-lawns/http://www.google.com/cse?cx=005882427699693072259:ras--hp8bwa&q=hugelkultur&oq=hugelkultur&gs_l=partner.3...1485499.1487326.0.1487744.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0.gsnos%2Cn%3D13...0.1965j507937j11..1ac.1.25.partner..0.0.0.#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=hugelkultur&gsc.page=1http://www.google.com/cse?cx=005882427699693072259:ras--hp8bwa&q=hugelkultur&oq=hugelkultur&gs_l=partner.3...1485499.1487326.0.1487744.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0.gsnos%2Cn%3D13...0.1965j507937j11..1ac.1.25.partner..0.0.0.#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=hugelkultur&gsc.page=1http://www.google.com/cse?cx=005882427699693072259:ras--hp8bwa&q=hugelkultur&oq=hugelkultur&gs_l=partner.3...1485499.1487326.0.1487744.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0.gsnos%2Cn%3D13...0.1965j507937j11..1ac.1.25.partner..0.0.0.#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=hugelkultur&gsc.page=1http://www.google.com/cse?cx=005882427699693072259:ras--hp8bwa&q=hugelkultur&oq=hugelkultur&gs_l=partner.3...1485499.1487326.0.1487744.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0.gsnos%2Cn%3D13...0.1965j507937j11..1ac.1.25.partner..0.0.0.#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=hugelkultur&gsc.page=1http://www.google.com/cse?cx=005882427699693072259:ras--hp8bwa&q=hugelkultur&oq=hugelkultur&gs_l=partner.3...1485499.1487326.0.1487744.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0.gsnos%2Cn%3D13...0.1965j507937j11..1ac.1.25.partner..0.0.0.#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=hugelkultur&gsc.page=1http://www.laurelfarmherbs.com/http://www.laurelfarmherbs.com/http://www.laurelfarmherbs.com/http://www.woottensplants.com/http://www.woottensplants.com/http://www.woottensplants.com/http://www.hattensfarmnurseriesmetfield.co.uk/http://www.hattensfarmnurseriesmetfield.co.uk/http://www.hattensfarmnurseriesmetfield.co.uk/http://www.hattensfarmnurseriesmetfield.co.uk/http://www.woottensplants.com/http://www.laurelfarmherbs.com/http://www.google.com/cse?cx=005882427699693072259:ras--hp8bwa&q=hugelkultur&oq=hugelkultur&gs_l=partner.3...1485499.1487326.0.1487744.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0.gsnos%2Cn%3D13...0.1965j507937j11..1ac.1.25.partner..0.0.0.#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=hugelkultur&gsc.page=1http://www.google.com/cse?cx=005882427699693072259:ras--hp8bwa&q=hugelkultur&oq=hugelkultur&gs_l=partner.3...1485499.1487326.0.1487744.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0.gsnos%2Cn%3D13...0.1965j507937j11..1ac.1.25.partner..0.0.0.#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=hugelkultur&gsc.page=1http://www.google.com/cse?cx=005882427699693072259:ras--hp8bwa&q=hugelkultur&oq=hugelkultur&gs_l=partner.3...1485499.1487326.0.1487744.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0.gsnos%2Cn%3D13...0.1965j507937j11..1ac.1.25.partner..0.0.0.#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=hugelkultur&gsc.page=1http://www.google.com/cse?cx=005882427699693072259:ras--hp8bwa&q=hugelkultur&oq=hugelkultur&gs_l=partner.3...1485499.1487326.0.1487744.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0.gsnos%2Cn%3D13...0.1965j507937j11..1ac.1.25.partner..0.0.0.#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=hugelkultur&gsc.page=1http://www.permaculturenews.org/2010/10/08/god-on-lawns/http://www.permaculturenews.org/2014/08/15/design-build-low-maintenance-perennial-fruit-herb-front-garden-uk/http://www.permaculturenews.org/2014/08/15/design-build-low-maintenance-perennial-fruit-herb-front-garden-uk/

design and build a low maintenance perennial fruit and herb front garden

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