byFLOYD MANLY

W ELL, ModelAirplane News hasto take direct credit

for this design. In theNovember 1984 issue they rana page titled "Planes WorthModeling," with four-views ofthe Der Jaeger that justbegged to be built. Because Iam a bipe nut and 1 hadrecently seen a 1/4-scale DerJaeger that I liked, 1 washooked!

The four-views werehelpful in laying out my plansand 1 came up with awingspan of 48 inches, orapproximately '/.s-scale. 1figured that a Fox* .40 I hadon hand would fill the powerrequirements.

Before I get into thebuilding sequence, there are afew construction features l'dlike to talk about. I built upthe cowl by carving a pieceof white foam to shape,then painting it with awater-based Latex beforeapplying the glass and resin.then hogged out the foamand washed the cowl withgasoline—outside in the openair, of course!

The motor mount/tankbox is designed to allowadjustment of over 1/2 inch tofit your favorite engine. ASemco Pitts Jr. muffler fitsnicely.

1 used aileron servos in

Der Jaeger has become a classic inbiplanes, and this great model is no exception.

each wing because it is theeasiest way of having fourailerons operating in sync.This also assures that theailerons are in positivealignment with theirrespective wings during everypre-flight. Having an extraservo as a backup doesn'thurt either.

The wings are almost

industry-standard D-tubeconstruction; extreme rigidityat a minimum cost in weight.Rib spacing is scale and theirshape is fully symmetrical likea Skybolt or a Pitts. Wirelanding gear is shown becauseI couldn't find a suitable bentaluminum one. The fairingsare easy to build for scalepoints, but can be left off for

Type: Sport ScaleWingspan: 48 inchesWing Area: 707 square inchesEngine: .40 to .50 two-cycle

.46 to .61 four-cycleChannels: 4

FEBRUARY 1980 45

Manly's Der Jaeger exhibits good build-ing techniques for an excellent flyingmodel.

sport flying. The peculiarcabane attachment results inperfectly aligned wings at alltimes. All interplane struts arecosmetic only and the DerJaeger will fly without them,but a bipe doesn't look rightwithout all that garbagehanging out. Anyway, 1wanted a plane that wasquick, not necessarily fast.

Back at the tail I addedflying wires again, just forcosmetic reasons—bypunching holes in the surfacesand stringing heavy blackthread. Cyanoacrylate glueholds them in place andstiffens the wires.

CONSTRUCT1ON.Protect your plans withwaxed paper. 1 usedcyanoacrylate throughout,except as noted on the plans.

Build two identical fuselagesides including the tail postand wing saddles. Cut the 1/4-inch ply firewall from theplans pattern. Before cuttingthe motor mount/tank box,attach the motor to themount, then measure exactlyfrom the back of the mountto the back of the Spinner youintend to use. Thismeasurement will determinehow long the tank box needs

FULL-SIZE PLANS AVAILABLE...PAGES 116, 117

v

1 put her throughthe paces and shehigh-stepped all the way.

Nose cowling block is built-up.Note dummy engine.

to be. Trial-fit the box intothe hole in the firewall; you'llwant a snug fit.

Glue the 7i6-inch balsasides to their frames, one leftand one right, of course.Then pin or weigh down thefuselage, inverted, over theedge of your bench so thefirewall is butted against the

Aileron servo is mounted in topwing.

bench. Check for alignmentand attach the firewall to thesides with thick glue. Add thegussets.

Cut the cabane plate, slip itunder the inverted fuselage,and glue it to the firewall andfuselage side stringers. Leavethe landing gear plate off forn o w - (Continued on page 98)

Distinct and unique wheelpants and skirts. Cabane setup on Der Jaeger is simple and Aileron hookup requires no-slop linkage.strong.

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DER JAEGER(Conlinued from page 47)

Add the l/4-inch ply wing dowel plate,and glue to the wing saddle. This willassure true, square sides. Cut and gluethe bottom cross braces, as you pull andalign the tail together. Use a pair ofPerma-Grit sanding sticks back-to-back(or folded sandpaper) at the tailpost toshape the stringers and the post to the

proper bevel. Align and glue the poststogether. Cut the '/s-inch ply tailwheelplate and use thick cyanoacrylate glue/Flip the fuselage over and add the toprear cross braces. Each should be cutexactly the same size as its bottom mate.

Use hard balsa for the 1/8x1/8-inch sidestringers. Start at the front end and glueeach side alternately, working towardthe tail while making sure the overallalignment is still true. Add the 14x!/x-inchstringers to the top and bottom edges in

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the same way. Then add the aft bottomstringers.

The top turtledeck will take somesanding and fitting, but will finish up theaft fuselage. Don't glue it in place untilthe fuselage is covered.

The last thing to do before the wingsare completed is to glue the bottom wingattaching blocks and their gussets.

Note: It will be easier to work on thetop wing cabanes if the front formersFl A, F2A, and F3A and their stringersare left off for now. The best sequence isto complete both wings before continu-ing, so skip that part of the construction,then pick up here later.

Seat the bottom wing, checking forskew on overall alignment and for firmseating. Measure for, or use an incidencemeter to make sure you have 0° incidencein relation to the fuselage thrust line.Drill, tap, and install the wing bolts.Bend the wire cabanes per the drawingoutlines and attach to the ply shelf withJ-bolts.

Make up the top wing mountingplates and install on top of the cabanes.Bolt the wing to the cabane and check foralignment, incidence, and fore/aft posi-tion in relation to the bottom wing.Make the Z-bend braces, then wrap eachend to the cabanes with copper wire.Solder their bottom ends to the cabanes,then check the wing placement againbefore soldering their top ends.

Recheck all wing alignments again.This is the most important check you canmake; a bipe will not fly right when itswings are not true.

Make a pair of V-strutsapproximatelythe same length shown on the plans.Wrap and epoxy the top attaching platesonly, leaving the bottom plates as slip-fits until checking the relation of the topand bottom wings again. Make all neces-sary adjustments to the cabanes! Don'tuse the V-struts to push or pull the wingfor alignment.

The interplanes are the last set of strutsto make. These are mainly cosmetic, butbe sure they don't induce a warp in yourpanels. Now that the cabanes are in theirfinal positions, add the top fuselageformers and sheeting. Trial-fit the 14-inch ply landinggear plate. Cut and gluethe landing gear blocks to former F2.Drill holes for the landing gear wire, fitthe gear and attach with J-hooks. Gluethe landinggear plate in place. Fit, carve,and epoxy the balsa chin plate over thelanding gear plate. Except for the tail-feathers, this should finish up majorconstruction.

98 MODEL AIRPLANE NEWS

The top wing has no dihedral, and iseasiest to build upside down over theplans because all of its attaching platesand cutouts are on the bottom. Cut outall the ribs in pairs. Do not cut theailerons loose yet. Just notch them forcutting later.

Cut the !4x'/4-inch spruce and balsaspars to length between outboard ribs.Cut the leading edge and sub-leadingedge to length from wing tip to wing tip.Cut the leading edge sheets to lengthbetween outboard ribs. Pin down the topleading edge sheet over the plans andglue the spruce spar to it. Pin down a|/4x'/»-inch jig stick over the index markson the plans.

Place each rib over the spar to rest onthe jig strip and glue them lo the sparonly. Do not glue to the leading edgesheet yet. Glue the previously assembledleading edge to each rib, taking care thatthe ribs are square with the spar andcentered on the ribs. Glue the bottombalsa spar to all the ribs.

Glue the bottom leading edge sheet tothe leading edge and sub-leading edge.Soften the wood for bending by brushingwater on its outside surface, then care-fully bend it down to be glued to thebalsa spar. Glue the rear sheet from thecenter rib to the outboard rib. This willcover the aileron hinge area to be cutloose later. Note on the plans that theseare actually two pieces of balsa. Outlinethe center section cut out, curved portionof the wing with a French or flexiblecurve. Trim and sand it to shape after thetop sheeting is added.

Complete the center sheeting, then cutthrough the sheet and the balsa sparcarefully to add the cabane wing fixtures.Drill and tap them for the attaching boltswhen the wing is ready to be fitted to thecabanes. Add the bottom cap Strips tostillen the wing sufficiently enough toturn it over for work to be completed onthe top side.

After installing all the top sheeting andcap Strips, the wing will be stiff enough toflip-flop it around as you need to add thestrut attaching plates and bellcrankbrackets. Mark the ailerons and cutthem out with an X-Acto knife and saw,after completing both wing tips.

Make a suitable cutout and bracketsfor your servo. Add the pushrods andbellcranks, then do the final sanding onthe scalloped trailing edge. These are thefinal steps for the top wing.

Build the bottom wing in the samesequence as the top wing, however, buildit in two halves with shorter pieces ofmaterial because of its dihedral.

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IVe tried to make the plans self-supporting, but in every best-laid plan,something is always missing. Afterstudying them for a couple of hours foromitted details, 1 gave up and decided togo flying.

FLYING. I peaked the Fox .40 to justabove the four-stroke burble, and wasready to go. Advancing the throttleslowly, it rolled out about 10 feet andnosed over! Two more attempts at scale-like takeoffs resulted in the same em-

barassing thunk! The wheelpants andmedium short grass just wouldn't let herbuild up enough speed for elevatorcontrol.

When people Standing around startedtalking to each other behind their hands,there was nothing eise I could do but gether in the air right away. I used a midgetracer Start by hitting füll throttle thenpushing her out as hard as I could. For

(Continued on page 101)

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FEBRUARY 99

DER JAEGERabout 10 seconds she resembled adrunkcn bumblc bee, but she was flying!

I have to brag that the trim was almostright on. I put her through the paces andshe high-stepped all the way. She dideverything 1 had expected of her snaprolls, inverted flight, knife-edges, andspins. Throttling back for slow flight, shecoasted around nose-high, steady as arock, except for a tendency to yaw.Earlier, during the loops, I noticed thatshe wouldn't holda lineoverthetop, butI blamed it on the strong winds. Laterinvestigation and discussion revealedthat the left ailerons weren't aligned.Two turns on the bottom clevis solvedthe problem.

The landing was an attention-getter.The Der Jaeger is a "dirty" aircraft inthat it has a lot of wires, struts, pants anda bomb to slow it down. You have tocome in under power with the nose up,ordive herto the numbers ifyou'redead-stick. She slows down real quick! Thefirst landing ended the way the firsttakeofl attempts started, only in reverse.A beautilul flare, an almost three-pointtouchdown, a nice roll out. and a nose-over just betöre the tail was ready todrop. Thank you for glass props.

I had proved that she would fly; quitewell from the remarks overheard, so Ididn't push my luck with high-powerslow-speed takeoffs anymore. Thatwould bc begging for a snap roll. Laterflights from a paved runway were soscale-like that they sent tingles up thespines of all gathered bipe nuts!

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SCHLUTER CHAMP(Conlinned from page 65)

Head Lock Remote ononeol the enginemounting bolts to allow starting with thecabin in place. The fan shroud is thesame nice unit lound in the Superior. Itconsists of two interlocking moldedpieces and a vaeuum-formed extensionwhich is trimmed to fit the engine andbolted to one half of the shroud. Theextension should be at least 1/4 inch fromthe engine or it will melt.

Construction continues with the tail-boom. and tail rotor gearbox. which areidentical to the Superior.

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FEBRUARY 101