BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology

M.Rana 1Textile Fibre

Md Masud Rana Assistant Professor, Dpt. of Textile Engg

BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology

•Word denim comes from "de Nimes", French town where the fabric was said to be first made - but American jeans were made with US denim.

•Jean is said to reference sailors from Genoa, Italy, who wore indigo-dyed clothes

•Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis patented their riveted design on 20 May 1873 - said to be the birth of jeans.

THE HISTORY OF DENIMS

1. Warp yarns are colored (usually with Indigo, vat, blue or Sulphur black);

2. Structure: right hand or left hand twill i.e. Z/S-twill of 2/1 or 3/1 construction;

3. Usually made of cotton yarns of coarser count (7S, 10S, 14S, 16S, etc);

4. Coarser cloth (weight lies between 6 – 14 oz/sq.yds) and used for pant and

warm jacket;

5. Rotor yarns are mostly used.

Denim

Specification of a typical denim fabric:7 * 10

72 * 56* 58

Denim twill is made with two set of yarns – one set dyed indigo, the other

undyed. Indigo dyed yarns are most visible on the outside, undyed yarns

on the inside.

Characteristics of Denim fabric:

Classification of denim fabric:

1. According to weight/unit area

• Light weight: 4.5 to 7 oz/sq.yd

• Medium weight: 7 to 10 oz/sq.yd

• Heavy weight: 11 and above

2. According to hue or color

• Indigo vat

• Sulphur black

Yarn used for Denim:

• Spun Yarn (Open end, Ring spun yarn with Regular and Slub•Filament yarn (Polyester/Nylon/spandex)

3. According to optic wise

• Regular

• Slub (Warp slub/weft slub)

• Cross Hatch: both way slub i.e. both warp and weft yarns are slub

4. According to fabric structure/design

• Plain

• Twill (S-twill, Z-twill, herringbone or Zigzag twill)

5. According to composition wise

• 100% cotton

• Cotton stretch (Cotton with spandex)

• Cotton polyester

• Cotton polyester stretch (cotton-polyester with spandex)

Jeans are trousers made from dark "raw" denim and twill fabric, but most are washed or treated before sale. Often the term "jeans" refers to a particular style of trousers called "blue jeans" and invented by Jacob Davis and Levi Strauss in 1873. Starting in the 1950s, jeans, originally designed for cowboys, became popular among teenagers, especially members of the greaser subculture. Historic brands include Levi's, Lee, and Wrangler. Jeans come in various fits, including skinny, tapered, straight, boot cut and flare.

Jeans:

Cotton SergeThe traditional denim is 100 percent cotton serge. Additionally, denim is often blended with other fabrics.

Raw DenimRaw denim is dark, unwashed fabric that is stiff and very durable. It fades with wear in certain areas, creating a natural distressed look. It also fades with washing.

Selvage DenimThe premium type of raw denim fabric is selvage denim, with tight weaving and natural edges that will not unravel. Selvage denim is more expensive than other raw denim.

Bull DenimPiece-dyed cotton twill made from coarse yarns to resemble denim; however, the warp yarns are not dyed with indigo before weaving.

CrosshatchAn effect in the denim weave created by using uneven yarn in the weft direction, combined with uneven yarns in the warp direction.

Different types of Denim:

Stretch DenimThe blend closest to pure denim is called stretch denim, which usually includes 2 or 3 percent Spandex material for a bit of give in the fabric.

Rigid DenimDescribes unwashed denim. Most denim garments are typically prewashed before going to retail.

Poly-DenimPoly-denim blends look like a dressier denim, and are more lightweight, which makes them more convenient to wash and dry. They also are more resistant to wrinkling.

Ramie-DenimDenim is also sometimes blended with the plant fiber ramie, which reduces wrinkling and gives the fabric a softer feel.

TYPES OF DENIM WASH

Denim washes are of following two types:

1. Wet washes

• Bleaching wash

• Enzyme wash

• Acid wash

2. Dry washes

• Stone wash

• Microsanding/Sand blasting