dansk daily saturday 2nd february

SATURDAY FEBRUARY 02NDCOPENHAGEN FASHION WEEKAUTUMN / WINTER 2013

COVER PHOTO WOOD WOOD BY SIMON B. MØRCH

LOOK OF THE DAYPETER JENSEN

IVAN GRUNDAHL | BIBI CHEMNITZ NOA NOA | GAIA | WOOD WOOD

THE CULTURE CLUB

BEAUTY

REVIEWS

HOMERUN IN HOMELANDSOULLAND

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PUBLISHERSDANSK Magazine & Copenhagen Fashion WeekEDITOR-IN-CHIEFElsebeth MouritzenCREATIVE EDITOR / PROJECT COORDINATORRozanna FritzART DIRECTION / GRAPHIC DESIGNMarco Pedrollo, Kasper Fjederholt, Mikkel M. Andersen · IRONFLAGSUB-EDITORMagnus JoremEXECUTIVE EDITORAnne Christine PerssonBEAUTY EDITORMikkel HyldebrandtWEB EDITOR / EDITORIAL ASSISTANTRikke Charlotte Larsen

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTJulie Christine Kühne

WRITERSMoussa Mchangama, Lotte Freddie

Rikke Dyrholm, Sille HenningFASHIONFORUM

Naja Helene Hertzum, Anne KongsbakPHOTOGRAPHERS

Simon B. Mørch, Mathilde SchmidtJonas Dahl Grue, Copenhagen Fashion Week

SALES REPRESENTATIVEJens Løkke

DISTRIBUTIONLouise Hansen, Julie Christine Kühne, Sabine Lyneborg

PRINTBerlingske Avistryk

What the future holds

Contributors

Just like the rest of our society, the future of fashion lies in the hands of the next gen-eration. Not only from the creative point of view, but ever so importantly in the business aspect as an integral part of fashion. No ide-as, no money — no success.

In the course of these hectic four days, eve-rybody is in constant competition for atten-tion, and every season we see new brands emerge on the show calender, wanting to test their talents on broader audiences.

There are success stories like anne Sofie Madsen, astrid andersen, asger Juel Larsen and Freya Dalsjö, but time and again we have come across new designers and brands whose talent and concept have not been sufficiently strong from the beginning in order to succeed on the circuit.

rector and fashion designer Bruno pieters, as if he had been asked for advice on this matter. But his quote emerged yesterday in conjuction with new actions from Designers’ Nest, the annual New Talent award at Vision.

In collaboration with Designers’ Nest, Bruno pieters and american fashion journalist Kristopher arden-Houser are announcing the world’s first academic fashion prize that will reward the winner with a mentorship at the august 2013 fashion fair in Copenhagen, aimed at developing a unique product col-laboration to be presented six months later.

This could serve as inspiration for the fash-ion establishment to help create a more sustainable environment for all new talents, and to give Copenhagen Fashion Week a new challenge as a fashion intermediary.

The whole idea of fashion is change, and as much as we welcome new visionaries, they should be ready — on al l levels — to meet the hard demands of the fashion world of today.

Copenhagen Fashion Week is the platform where primarily Danish and Scandinavian fashion is promoted and supported, and for the sake of all parties — designers, buyers and media — perhaps the brands, and not just the young ones, should put even more consideration into the choice of whether to market themselves on the runway or by other means, so as not to be disappointed by the outcome.

”as a child I dreamed of fashion, as an adult I realized that I needed to wake up so the dream could continue,” says Belgian art di-

Editorial

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Elsebeth Mouritzen

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v i s i t o u r f l a g s h i p s t o r e s • c o p e n h a g e n c i t y c e n t r e : n y ø s t e r g a d e 4c o p e n h a g e n a i r p o r t : n y t o r v • s t o c k h o l m c i t y c e n t r e : h a m n g a t a n 1 1

5 0 t h a n n i v e r s a r y c e l e b r a t i o n

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Head to Copenhagen Fashion Festival’s website any time during fashion week to check out acute sartorial oberservations in blog form by the fabulous BISOU blogger collective.

A KISS OF FASHION EXPERTISE

www.copenhagenfashionfestival.com

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A FIRE TO ADMIRE

Let there be light! The new fire buckets by MeNU are both visually pleasing and ultra-practical. With clear references to the warm inviting fireplaces of summer nights past, Norm Fire Buckets serve as a source of light, warmth, and homely calm.

With a clean, simple and very Nordic expression, the fire bucket lights up your garden or porch. Made in stainless steel, it will serve you in all kinds of weather (which is basically a must in Scandinavian winters).

The designers behind Norm, Jonas Bjerre-poulsen and Kasper Rønn, strive for timelessness in all aspects of their work. They worship mini-malism and functionality, and endeavour to design products that meet real-life needs while pleasing all of our senses at the same time.

The Dansk Daily team adores the colorful 2012 Bel Sac campaign featuring Danish top model gertrud Hegelund. Rumor has it that the face of next season’s Bel Sac campaign will another top-notch Dane. We don’t kiss and tell, but a hint is that she has been the face of Balenciaga for the last two seasons. We’re looking forward to it!

EXHIBITING THE DANISH BACON

www.noisepr.dk

www.ringstedoutlet.dk

This season, Copenhagen Fashion Week has, for the first time ever, teamed up with Noise pR as its media partner in crime. Noise pR has a highly focused pR department which, besides Copenhagen Fashion Week, handles public relations for brands like Freya Dalsjö, youheshe.com, Nag Store and Noa Noa. Besides the fashion department, Noise pR takes care of our health and wellbeing with its beauty department, which has brands like Oriflame and Moroccanoil as clients. Wanna make some noise?

Less than an hour away from fashionable Copenhagen you’ll find an even more fashionable city — at least when it comes to outlet stores of clothing both Danish and international. Ringsted Outlet is a small Mecca of more affordable items with no lack in quality; and is for your information the only real outlet village in Denmark.

In 2013, Ringsted Outlet will just be getting bigger, when Superdry opens a grand outlet store. Don’t know what to do next weekend? grab your loved ones and spend a shopping day at Ringsted Outlet.

MAKE SOME NOISE

OUTLET HEAVEN NEAR COPENHAGEN

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Copenhagen aiport is stylish in and of itself, but becomes even more so during Copenhagen Fashion Week and beyond, when a pop-up lounge will focus on Danish design and inspirational fashions. Named ”Fashion Your Way,” the lounge will show ex-hibits by Danish fashion icons such as designers Silas adler and Trine Wackerhausen, editors Frederik Lenz andersen from euroman and Cecilie Christiansen from Danish elle, CeO Christian Stadil from Hummel and singer aura Dione. Besides fashion inspiration, there will also be cocktails and delicious canapées. The lounge, situated in an extention to the taxfree area, is open for all visitors, departing and arriving, until March 3.

FLYING IN STYLE

The next big exhibition at contemporary art museum Louisiana is ‘pop art Design,’ coming this spring.

pop art is one of the most influential art movements of the post-war years. The dialogue between art and design in the years 1955-72 was massive and has been of crucial importance to the influence of pop art ever since. The exhibition elucidates the complex character of the phenomenon and illustrates how images and subjects mix, creating new connections between images and objects, subjecting standard genres to new pressures and establishing new ones.

You can see the exhibition from February 22—June 9. www.louisiana.dk

LOUISIANA X POP ART

I’m always on the lookout for new emerging talent in Scandinavia, and altewai.Saome is definitely one of the most interesting brands to come out of Sweden in the last couple of years. Can’t wait to see their aW13 collection.

EXECUTIVE EDITOR ANNE LOVES ALTEWAI.SAOME

Check out the schedule at www.copenhagenfashionweek.com

THE KIDS ARE ALRIGHT

Scandinavian childrenswear brands are thriving, and with four kids shows this season, a need for an independent kids schedule arose. Here you can find all events, shows, and trade fair activities related to childrenswear. The Kids schedule will improve service for the increasing number of childrenswear media and buyers.

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COOL RECYCLINGDesigner father preben Lind and business daughter Bine Lind have found a niche with The MaT, for which they recycle leather from furniture, handbags, and car seats — and combine it with natural rubber — to achieve a functional and sturdy material. Danish manufacturers transform it into contemporary and cool lifestyle prod-ucts for office and living spaces, and for personal use, like ipad covers and bags.

www.lindna.com

Veteran accessories design brand DyrbergKern have withstood the turbulence of the mar-kets by sticking to their core competence: affordable quality products that bridge fashion jewelry with fine jewelry by using noble steel and Swarowski crystals in their trademark clean design.

”In this day and age, women tend to look for fashion and accessories that are longer last-ing, and our Icons collection offers classic cool jewelry that doesn’t feel outdated after a few seasons. Since we’re constantly exposed to new fads and trends on all media platforms, our customers need something secure to hold on to,” says Henning Kern of DyrbergKern.

But they also cater to the trend-oriented segment, and for spring/summer they tempt with the Sinners & Saints collection, which spans from a devilish look of dark silver, black stones, and leather to the lighter angelic and romantic look.

”We expect a lot of women to embellish themselves with leather bracelets, cool and sexy earrings, and rocker-inspired neck-chains. For night, it will be in full bling with sexy hoops and big cocktail rings. and for those on the quiet side, tennis and click-on bracelets.”

”We are constantly looking for new expressions while staying true to our DNa, and the best reward after 28 years in the business is to see women around the world wearing our design,” says Henning Kern.

QUALITY TIME

THE DAILY GEM

Danish brand By Malene Birger, which graces celebs like British duchess Kate Middleton, gets a new CeO. Charlotte egelund has so far taken up the seat as retail director but replaces former CeO Lars andresen in January.

”There was not a doubt in my mind when they asked me. I’m ex-tremely excited to play a greater role in the future strategy for By Malene Birger and the development of the brand,” states a happy new CeO.

MUSICAL CHAIRS AT BY MALENE BIRGER’S

KAREN’S COOL CAVE

Karen by Simonsen, a breakaway brand from Munthe+Simonsen, opens its own first stand-alone store. The new flagship store in Copen-hagen will carry not only the Karen by Simonsen main line but also the new diffusion line 5 elements by Karen. The 5 elements collec-tion is based upon a one-of-a-kind concept, meaning that each style is produced in a — very — limited number.

Karen by Simonsen, St. Regnegade 3, Copenhagen K.

News provided by fashionforum.dk


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FOCUS ON MEN

Instead of the traditional trend show, CIFF at Bella Center has in-vented the new showcase space Crystal Hall, which will house a mix of the world’s most forward-looking lifestyle- and menswear brands, curated by pierre Tzenkoff and arnaud Vanraet with CIFF Fashion & Design Director Kristian W. andersen. Crystal Hall was specially designed for CIFF by renowned scenographer Jean Christophe au-mas, who has worked with the world’s leading luxury fashion brands, including Louis Vuitton, Celine and Dior. The event is open every afternoon to everyone visiting the fair.

The Danish Design Museum in Copenhagen is going British these days. On display are 17 printed textiles from the Brit-ish post-war period, from the early 50s to the late 70s. In the exhibition, you’ll find beauties from design stars such as Luci-enne Day and evelyn Redgrave, and all the textiles have been donated to the Danish museum by London-based textile col-lector Francesca galloway.Post-war British Textiles (ends September 2013) Designmuseum Danmark, Bredgade 66, Copenhagen K.Open Tuesday-Sunday 11 am – 5 pm (Wednesday until 9 pm)

SWIRLY PATTERNS ON DISPLAY

MUUSE’S MUSINGSMuuse has crowned young Turkish designer ece gözen talent of the year 2012. The Muuse x Vogue Talents Young Vision award 2012 provides the winner with dis-play and sale of her capsule collection on Muuse.com and a feature on Vogue.it. Danish Muuse is a primarily online platform that helps young designers all over the world get the recognition they deserve by providing pro-duction, sales, pR and logistics aid.www.muuse.com

SNEAK A PEEK Couldn’t we all do with losing a couple of pounds after winter has found its way onto our thighs? Now you can be sporty and look fashionable at the same time. Weekday is growing, and is set to launch its newest brand soon. The new kid on the block is called 1440, described as a sportier fashion brand for both women and men. The designer behind is the very talented Nhu Duong, who has a predi-lection for extreme sports built on the color scale of black and white with a slice of neon, silver, and the everlasting pastel universe. Spring cannot come quickly enough! Run down to your nearest Weekday store, where 1440 will be launching.

Curious already? Check out www.weekday.com & www.nhuduong.com




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EDITOR’SPICK OF THE DAY

I love the combination of edgy leather inspired by the original biker jacket done by Sand in a soft femi-nine version in dusty pastel.

TRIUMPHANT LINGERIE DESPITE TOUGH TIMES

Lingerie giant Triumph has a clear strategy: specific products for specific markets. In China, Triumph is all about colors, patterns, and lots of sass, whereas the Western customer gets a more muted brand. But the crisis has taken its toll on Triumph, explains head of sales and retail Søren Stef-fensen (yes, he’s a Dane):

”Underwear is not a must-have as such. It’s not all that visible, so of course we’ve felt the crisis. But we’ve decided to use the climate for our own benefit: We need to be proactive so that we’ll be the ones the customers remember once the crisis is over.”

www.scoopmodels.comwww.oriflame.dk

SCOOPELICIUSScoop Models is one of Scandinavia’s leading model agencies, with mother model Bente Lundquist (former top model herself )’s more than 20 years in the fashion industry she has created a strong network in the business and is representing a strong spectrum of high fashion models and still introducing new talents.

among her super model team you find Marikka who at the moment are walk-ing down the runway at alexander Wang, gucci and proenza Schouler doing campaign jobs for Mango, Top Shop and Bitte Kai Rand and not to forget she is captured in high fashion magazines Harper’s Bazaar UK & DaNSK. But that’s not all! Bente is also the mother of the three Balenciaga girls Juliane, Kirstin and Julier. But not to forget at Scoop you also find some handsome eye-candy. around the world in shows for Dior, Louis Vuitton and prada, on the cover of euroman and in the H&M Campaign you will find the gorgeous Scoop guys Mikkel Jensen, Victor Nylander, Henrik F and Mathias Lauridsen.

GIMME GIMME MORE

Turn your life into a vibrant fairy tale with Oriflame’s highest pigmentation lipstick and nail polish ever, from the new collection More by Demi. With actress Demi Moore’s Hollywood glamour and allure, you’ll get the boldest, richest color and saturation you’ve ever witnessed. The line’s six stunning shades pro-vide the ultimate intensity in color with an extra fin-ish — turning your chromatic fantasies into reality. Like a Hollywood glamour these colours will resist to fade and will retain a everlasting high-gloss finish. Dare to shine like a star – now you definitely will.


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www.ganni.dk

CREATIVE EDITOR ROZANNA LOVES THE AW 2013 COLLECTION

FROM GANNI

COSTUME DRAMA Don’t be embarrased if you just want to kick back on Sunday nights in March when the third season of the critically acclaimed upstairs-downstairs costume drama ”Downton abbey” premieres on DR1. It’s called fashion research! The previous seasons of the show have already inspired the likes of Ralph Lauren and Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton, and with all the rage of the roaring twenties arriving with the world premiere of Baz Luhrman’s remake of ”The great gatsby” in May, it’s good to be prepared. ”Downton abbey” also moves into the 1920s, though with more subtle styles than those revealed from the gatsby-set.

www.definingscandinavia.com

Taking a holistic approach to lifestyle as more than the clothes we wear, the Øksnehallen venue hosts the ambitious fair Defining Scandinavia this fashion week for the very first time. The hope is to build a trad-ing platform for established and up-and-coming brands in the field of Scandinavian interior design and living, and judging by the impressive roster of exhibitors, the organizers have struck a chord among the pur-veyors of good taste, among those Chimalaya.


MORE THAN FASHION

VOILA — THREE NEW BESTSELLER BRANDS

Danish colossus Bestseller with — ahem — bestselling brands like Jack & Jones and ONLY under its belt launches not one, not two, but three new brands this spring: There’s the plus-size wholesale brand JunaRose covering european sizes from 42-52, the ONLY diffusion line Jaqueline de Young, and then there’s Noisy May, which adds a younger, more denimy touch to the Vero Moda stores. all in all, there’s plenty to check out this year when you visit one of the more than 800 Vero Moda stores worldwide.

Christian Gether

Director of arken, Christian gether, is no stranger to fashion. He recently in-corporated clothes in the successful exhibition ”India: art Now,” and the mu-seum of modern art just south of Copenhagen now enjoys a hip crowd for their Damien Hirst show.

Where do you go for a unique shopping experience in Copenhagen?I had the pleasure of working with Rasmus Storm on the India exhibit, and I really like his boutique in Store Regnegade for the very personal mix of fashion brands and lifestyle products.

What’s the best place to eat dinner in Copenhagen?I like to take guests and curators visiting arken to Tivolihallen in Vester Voldgade, a classic yet innovative ”smørrebrød” restaurant (open-face sand-wich), where it’s not just about nostalgia. Famo on Vesterbrogade is an Italian favorite for dinner, because they keep developing the classic menu.

What’s your favorite spot in the city?I like Bredgade, starting from bustling Nyhavn, with it’s generous mix of art galleries, auction houses, vintage furniture stores and Designmuseum Danmark.

INSIDE COPENHAGEN


Bel Sac clutch i ægte pythonskind, håndmalet i Italien

DANISH DESIGN

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SOULLANDHomerun in homeland

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WORDS Rikke Dyrholm PHOTO Copenhagen Fashion Week

Thursday night, City Hall oozed of boldness and beauty with fashion folks drinking bottled beers, as Soulland presented its aW13 collec-tion from the hands of designer chief Silas adler.

Sporting shirts, chinos, cable knits, casual blazers, sweats, knee-long shorts and classical outerwear like pilot- and western jackets, the collection radiated a crisp and modern take on classic menswear fashion. a new line of suits in mixed wool suited the brand well in a fine bal-ance with a hint of Soulland’s street audacity.

Recurring details included chinos casu-ally folded at the bottom, prints of child-inspired drawings and dots, baseballs, geeky Boy Scout emblems, and embroidered shirts. It was street with sporty undertones. T-shirts with printed baseball references indicated that Soulland embodies the team spirit.

The main colors were off-white, beige, grey and navy mixed with a royal blue and a sharp pink, an awesome cheeky standout.

Soulland’s new collaboration with Danish accessories brand adax on a line of bags showed high quality and design, travel- and tote bags held in an eye-catching camel, underlining the classical turn Soulland has taken.

Soulland’s aW13 collection showed a high level of wearability, the classic turning lend-ing the label maturity, a growth well suited for a brand that’s energetically charging ahead.

Homerun to team Soulland.

WEBSHOP // www.b i t teka i r and .comMo

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NOANOA

Veteran fashion brand Noa Noa has enjoyed immense success for three decades with its layered, bohemian-inspired collections, but lately they have pared down the designs and silhouettes in favor of a more streamlined look, albeit without letting go of the soft and feminine details that are the DNa of the company.

In the hands of stylist team Femmes Region-ales, the clothes appeared simple and delicate on the runway in wearable combinations. They daringly mixed mustard yellow with chocolate brown and navy in colorblocking outfits, but also blended in some Indian-inspired pat-

terns. an ikat-print worked well in both blue and red viscose blouses and shirtdresses, but you had to imagine the pants or stockings to cover the long, bare legs strutting the runway in delicate high-heeled Oxfords or cool back-zipped biker boots.

always a staple in the Noa Noa collections, there was a smart slender military-inspired grey flannel coat to keep you warm, along with vo-luminous long cardigans and a cosy turtleneck poncho in earthy colors narrowed at the waist with slim colorful belts to add a little edge.

perhaps inspired by the Danish Crown prin-cess, who favors soft, feminine blouses paired with full-legged menswear trousers, the look of white and ivory viscose tops with delicate embroidery on the front and navy and black bottoms oozed of a new self assurance — that you don’t have to layer yourself to appear fashionable and feminine. Simple does it, too.

Fashionably feminine

WORDS Elsebeth Mouritzen PHOTO Copenhagen Fashion Week

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pilgrim.dk / find nearest retailer at pilgrim.dk/stores

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Fifty shades of greyPLACED

BY GIDEON

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I didn’t know exactly what to expect at the placed by gideon show at the Stock ex-change yesterday — except that it was a men’s knitwear company founded in eng-land in 2009 by the now Hong Kong/Macau-based emerging fashion designer gideon Tam.

However, it was a really a really nice and simple collection that demonstrated uses of

all kinds of little details in knitwear. Think Dead poets Society with a touch of Hong Kong. I saw well-groomed men in simplistic tight dark-grey woolen pants mixed with all kinds of knits — from fine delicate ones to chunky cardigans, some plain and others more detailed, and some even with embroi-dery detailing on the back — all of course

kept in different shades of grey. It was in the mix between the different grey colors that most of the detailing was evident — whether as “color blocking” and just a dark-er grey lining, or as stripes.

placed by gideon is not a brand that seeks revolution, but it showed some really nice knitwear for men.

WORDS Sille Henning PHOTO Gavin Davies

Ganni.dk

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WOOD WOODThe inspiration for the Wood Wood ‘In The Club’ collection may have been New York City and its clashes of cultures and emotions, but what was visualized at the show Thursday night was nothing less than a supreme take on what traditional Danish fashion has to offer; the thoroughly designed, functional, creative and urban — that distinct feeling of cool was what oozed down the runway.

The garments themselves were a diverse bunch, with a great mix of prints, fabrics,

colors and silhouettes — but what really (re-ally!) worked was everything metallic (the heels, a shiny set in red/grey for women and a gorgeous dress in a perforated material, especially), truly great outerwear (a heavy bomber and a biker leatherjacket took the cake), and Wood Wood’s take on tailoring, which they’ve refined a bit since last season. a better fit on some of the trousers for men would work, but that’s a seriously small issue

in a collection that showcased a cool com-bination of colors and just felt, well, easy to love.

They’re not trying too hard, over in this club. Back in the day, the Wood Wood show always packed the coolest crowd, hyping itself and creating a unique feel of Copenhagen cool. If anything, that feeling was back on Thursday night – and it makes it very, very difficult not to join the club when Wood Wood opens its doors.

The feel of Copenhagen

WORDS Moussa Mchangama PHOTO Copenhagen Fashion Week

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Modern simplicity

RIISexactly one year ago to the day, the young designer Stine Riis won the H&M Design award. Last august, she showed a collection at Copenhagen Fashion Week, but this time around it felt like she had produced an even more coher-ent entity in a well-rounded collection.

The new RIIS collection is minimal and simple on the outside, but crafted with great skill on the inside. It’s a very slender silhouette she creates, with narrow pencil skirts, slim pants and light tops in silk or sheer fabrics, contrasted by some heavy and slouchy jackets. Hard, shin-ing plastic is added for detail on a skirt, on the back of a sleeveless cloak, or as a belt — a fine contrast to the other materials that easily could have played a bigger part.

Colors were deep and rich, ranging from burgundy, pur-ple, blue and bottle green to a clear orange that was in-serted in the panels of two tops — some of the best looks in the collection. The designer’s tall, slim silhouette is both a strength and a weakness: when all the clothes are so body-conscious, getting them to fit in the right way is key. That let her down a couple of times, but overall it was a joy watching Stine Riis unfold a more coherent uni-verse. What comes next only time will tell, but an expan-sion of her universe and more risk-taking would be great. She certainly has the talent and is someone of whom we can have very high hopes.


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IVANGRUNDAHL

Kicking off with class, Ivan grundahl’s Fri-day show at the Copenhagen Stock exchange had models wear blue round sunglasses 80s style, black painted eyebrows and big black fluffy fuck-hair wigs with Liz Taylor flair. The Benjamin Button of Danish fashion, it seems the old man is only getting younger as the years pass.

Once again, grundahl’s collection dripped remarkable avant-garde garments and pro-vided a fresh renewal for younger audiences.

Besides his traditional heavy avant-garde

garments, the collection featured tulip- and balloon-shaped dresses, delicate tight suits in prince of Wales checks, and skirts and jackets in fresh materials like neoprene, heavy color-blocked woolen outerwear with visible pockets, and hoodies. Stand-out ele-ments that expressed a rawness suitable for the young and bold.

grundahl’s trademark army color was sub-dued in dusty and dark hues, complemented by medium brown, black, white, hues of grey,

contrasting with fresh prints and a glittering soft pastel. among the standouts was a tulip dress in a delicate textured taffeta with thick white vertical stripes covering the front, and a wavy a-shaped long skirt in glittering black tulle, both styles amazingly chic and wear-able for women of various ages.

The models’ closing catwalk entrance — for which all they wore were black transparent panty hoses, leather shoes, and black tops with spaghetti straps — said it all. Ivan grundahl knows how to dress — and un-dress — women of all ages.

Young and fit


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BIBICHEMNITZ

For the first time, greenlandic designer Bibi Chemnitz showed her collection at Copenha-gen Fashion Week. as a black-and-white movie of dogsled rides on greenland’s inland ice was screened, the collection unfurled as a casual character mix of sport and street with a pop cul-ture sentiment.

Targeting both males and females, the collection was coherent in theme, with a color scale held primarily in black and white, hues of grey, a red, a royal blue, and a deep green. The materials were simple and contained a natural jogging

cotton quality, wool and synthetic overtones. In support of the theme, the fitting was, over-all, loose and casual.

The collection sported jogging pants, skirts, hoodies, knee-long skirts in soft quilted jogging, long warm jacket-looking cardigans with huge pockets, long vests, quilted bomber jackets, fit-

ted casually and sometimes oversized. The items oozed of Bibi’s native roots, warm and cozy. and ready for a cold hike over the inland ice.

Non-chromatic prints gave graphic movement, shirts emblazoned with the words ‘Home Sick,’ reflecting the overall feel of Bibi’s strong attach-ment to greenland.

The collection seemed a bit safe, and was short on details. However, a fine contribution to young sporty streetwear was observed with delicious traces of pop and the greenlandic wilderness.

Hiking over Greenland’s ice


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PETERJENSEN

From rags to riches


peter Jensen truly deserved the award presented to him by Magasin du Nord’s foundation — the prize being the show itself as well as DKK 500,000. That was abundant-ly clear when the models hit the runway to the sound of live violins playing.

He’s always inspired by a muse, and this time it was Viv-ian Nicholson, famous for saying “Spend, spend, spend!” after she won a ton of money in 1961. Viv went from rags to riches and back again, as she spent all the money and ended up in a strip club. That inspiration meant a won-derful downplayed dualism between her ups and downs, with a luxurious part featuring dresses and bags dotted with shimmering, oversized sequins, glittering golden

shoes for men, and faux astrakhan and mink. Simple, well made dresses and plain but beautiful prints of sau-sage dogs and dots played the other part.

There was a 60s feel to it all, but as always with the whimsical designer, it felt up to date with Jensen’s use of vibrant colors and color blocks against blue, brown, and grey hues, really good dresses for both work and partying, and menswear with a good fit. This may have been about rags and riches, but there wasn’t anything cheap or overtly extravagant about it. peter Jensen’s DNa shone all the way through, and when that works, it’s all about the beautiful clothes that make you smile and enjoy yourself.

art dIreCtIoN of daNsK daIlY

IroNflag

www.iron f lag .ne t

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DESIGNERSNEST

Wearable innovationsWORDS Lotte Freddie PHOTO Copenhagen Fashion Week

27 students from nine Nordic design schools took part in the 17th edition of the competition Designers’ Nest award, the fashion award created in 2005 that aims to expose and promote up-and-coming Scandinavian designers — to global buy-ers, designers, the media and trendsetters.

The idea is to consolidate Denmark’s status as a fashion- and design nation, which is further advanced by having one of the world’s best-dressed women, Crown princess Mary, as pa-tron. Her Royal Highness turned up in a pretty, navy shirtdress with gold metal zips and an a-line skirt and handed Camilla Jæger Jespersen from TeKO Center, Denmark the Designers’ Nest award. Worth 50,000 Danish krone.

The jury’s basic criteria for choosing a win-ner is innovation, creativity, craftsmanship and commercial potential, and these demands, con-sidered fulfilled by the jury for its final choice, was explained by the chairman of the jury, Tom Steifel-Kristensen, as “wearable innovation that can still be commercialized and full of interest-ing hidden details.”

These elements, perfectly executed, were evi-dent in a beautiful, loose white wool velour coat, a black jacket with pointed double lapels, and a blouse with an open back in misty grey chiffon layered on top of eggshell white.

Runners up were Sophie Sälekari & Hanna-Maaria Sinkkonen, aalto University School of Design, and Nicklas Kunz, Kondinf School of Design. Strangely not among the winners was Ida Klamborn, from the Swedish School of Textiles, with rather fantastic, wide asymmetri-cal stripes in pink on white or black, and Björg Skarpheödinsdottir, whose large yellow/green knit and gold used in a leather suit and in a long lurex coat lit up the catwalk at the Vision venue.

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Arty avantgarde

WORDS Elsebeth Mouritzen PHOTO Copenhagen Fashion Week

Børsen, the distinguished Stock exchange venue, was a striking contrast to the fashions of Finnish newcomer 2Or+By Yat on the Co-penhagen show schedule with the designer’s pronounced avantgarde edge in both styling and design.

The collection addressed both men and wom-en in a common theme of very artistic fringy tops in shiny silky ribbons resembling over-size crochet sweaters from the punk age, for

the male part teamed with roomy rustic pants and bronzed combat boots.

With strong references to origami and other asian influences, the female part of the col-lection took a more feminine, yet strong and arty direction with asymmetrical hem- and necklines, folded and draped skirts, done in satin, wool and textured fabrics. Many of them

sparkling like frost with lurex and crystals in the mostly blue, petrol, warm orange and charcoal hues. Interesting were individual shoulder pieces of leather with long, dancing fringes, which would give a little edge to even the most ordinary sweater of other origin.

It wouldn’t be Finnish without prints, and de-signer Yat had transferred oversize patterns and pixels to several dresses, but his strongest asset was the interplay of textures.

copenhagenfashionweek.com

Next Season

See you

Copenhagen Fashion Week SS14 7-11 August

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READYTO FISH

Yesterday evening, the Dutch label Ready to Fish presented its autumn/winter 2013 collec-tion at the Copenhagen Stock exchange.

It was an easy and urban collection, with under-stated silhouettes and a focus on functionality in details, with lots of sporty references like Velcro closures, drawstring waistbands, mesh, snap but-tons, and double-faced jersey with a neoprene feel.

There were washable cotton suits with zip and Velcro-fastening at the bottom of the trousers, button-through dresses with adjustable elastic waistbands, and bomber-inspired jackets with Velcro closure. There were many zipper details like a mélange tunic with big visible pockets at the hips and a zip closure at the front, and other dresses with sizable back zippers.

The colors were mainly kept in the spirit of autumn, with varying tones of browns, greys, blues, greens and burnt orange — and of course a plentitude of mélange.

It was a nice collection of easily wearable eve-ryday clothes by a womenswear label that also makes furniture and music.

Velcro velocity

WORDS Sille HenninG PHOTO Copenhagen Fashion Week

GALLERYStand nr. 232

GG_avisannonce.indd 1 29/01/13 21.31

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AYNI CPHPeru meets Scandinavia

WORDS Lotte Freddie PHOTO Copenhagen Fashion Week

Today for you, tomorrow for me — that is the meaning of ”ayni” in Quechua, an old peruvian language spoken in the andes Mountains.

ayni CpH is the name of the fashion label founded by Lærke Skyum Blichfeldt who, along with a team, is responsible for developing the brand, based on peruvian products produced at their origin location in peru with traditional techniques and methods. The knitting is done by peasants in the moun-tains and the whole idea is to make ethical, sustainable col-lections, with respect for nature and no harm done to the environment — and thus promote peru as a favorable pro-duction venue for the fashion industry. alpaca, pima cotton, silk and bamboo are peruvian specialities — some of the ma-terials used by houses like prada, Ralph Lauren and Lacoste.

ayni CpH’s good intentions are meant to be sublimated into the collection inspired by peruvian cultures and Scan-dinavian styles. The knits are certainly of a high quality, but in order to be trendy and desirable, the design needs to be modern, to have an edge. That also entails professional styl-ing, make up, hair and cut, in order to carry off the inten-tions of the brand.

Spot on, however, in different kinds of knit, were sand-colored long cable knit sweaters and short peplum jackets in intricate patterns, as were beige sweaters with spike em-broidery on the shoulders. and a thick crème beige sweater dress and heavy cardigans striped in turquoise beige and white were simply gorgeous.

DYRBERGKERN.com

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GAIAPlay with colors

WORDS Sille Henning PHOTO Copenhagen Fashion Week

Danish designer gaia, who has always been known for her colorful knits, presented her autumn winter 2013 collection late last night at Copenhagen City Hall.

This season, the designer had drawn inspira-tion from various historical painters, which definitely influenced the picturesque color palette, which went from crispy white and dusty pink to bright green and cobolt blue.

There were of course knits a-plenty; from her well-known trompe l’oeil effects and more ethnic folklore inspiration to minimal-istic color-blocking. This season, the design-er also had worked with merging different kinds of knit, which created an interesting

play in the design and an almost three-di-mensional effect. also, big crystals and other different kinds of embellishesments added to the 3D effect — some more successfully than others. The collection also consisted of flattering pleated trousers, short skirts, long tunics and feminine shirts, some in the colors and patterns of the knitting and oth-ers, such as the oversized houndstooth, ex-isted on their own.

David Dencker

MUUSE CEO & Founder

"Magasin shares our ambition of help-ing the best young designers connect with the people who love fashion. Work-ing with a strong brand such as Magasin not only gives the designers a stamp of approval but being present in Magasin allows to present our outstanding young

designers to Magasin's customers."

“We take great pride in supporting new design talent, Danish as international. Young designers are invited to show-case and sell their collections in Magasin through our collaboration with MUUSE.We wish to give our customers the very latest and upcoming in fashion. Our col-laboration with M U U S E enables us to

do this.”

Magrethe Dal

Buying Director Magasin

Partners with MUUSE to Promote New Talent

Magasin is devoted to support ing young fashion des igners and br inging their inspir ing creat ions to a wide audience onl ine at magasin.dk and in the Magasin department stores.

Magasin has chosen MUUSE as partner in the miss ion to patron new design talents internat ional ly and br ing col lect ions by appraised young designers to Magasin customers. MUUSE represents the worlds 100 most promis ing emerging fashion des igners and works with the des igners to create s ignature MUUSE Edi t ions col lec-t ions.

MUUSE Edit ions col lect ions can be bought on magasin.dk and in 2013 customers can v is i t the MUUSE pop-up in Magasin Kongens Nytorv dur ing Copenhagen Fashion Week from January 28th. to Febuary 3rd. and in Magasin Århus from March 4th. to 10th.

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Oplev DET ORIGINALE. Moroccanoil - brandet der startede det hele med et produkt kendetegnet ved dets ikoniske, turkise mærkat og særlige originale glasflasker.

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LOOK OF THe DaYWORDS Mikkel Hyldebrandt PHOTO Mathilde Schmidt

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whole look has been doused in hair powder to give it that coveted dirty edge and a cooler feel, which also plays off of the set design of icebergs and snowy landscapes.

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PHOTOS – JONAS GRUE WORDS – MAGNUS JOREMDANSK

collectiveThe ta s t e -purveyors o f our paren t mag DANSK as s embl ed a smash ing co l l e c t i on o f sar toria l inven t ivene s s f o r fa sh ion week d i sp lay.

You probably have no idea how to pronounce j ewe l e r Zarah Voig t ’ s surname

Des i gner Mads Nørgaard inven t ed th e concep t o f s t rip e s and i s g enuine ly

concerned abou t th e fa s t pace tha t fa sh ion ha s taken ever s in ce

Oh . . .

A heartbreak ing c rowd o f s taggering g en iu s

Top mode l judge s Carol ine F l eming and Uf f e Buchard were a l l smi l e s t o d i s gu i s e th e

fa c t tha t th ey had a cc iden ta l ly g lued th e i r f o rehead s t og e ther

Des i gner Anne So f i e Madsen was l i ke , oh my god, my Dansk Dai ly rev i ewer Mous sa Mchangama ju s t t o ta l ly

g e t s my ob s e s s i on f or a l l t h ing s s i ren- f e t i sh - ch i cEurowoman’ s Gert rud Bønne lykke i s t o ta l ly okay abou t pay ing Mads Nørgaard roya l t i e s f o r h i s inven t i on

o f s t rip e s ; f ri end Bea i s , l i ke , no t abou t t o sp lurge on tha t

Al t f o r Damerne ’ s Line Hindsgavl and Cami l la Frank , who l ike s bi g l ape l sDe s i gner Trine Wackerhaus en and in t e ri or s t y l i s t Natha l i e d e c ided

t o a t t end fa sh ion week in s t ead o f wat ch ing X-Fac tor

I f Hea ther Lock l ear wore c l o the s , f abu lou s c l o the s , sh e wou ld l ook l i ke Dani sh Fash ion In s t i tu t e ’ s CEO

Eva Krus e , s e en here nex t t o th e in imi tabl e Kim Grenaa , c rea t ive d i re c t or o f DANSK

DENMARK’S ONLY real OUTLET VILLAGEHOME TO DANISH AND INTERNATIONAL BRANDS

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PHOTOS – JONAS GRUE WORDS – MAGNUS JOREM

PHOTOS – JONAS GRUE WORDS – MAGNUS JOREM

soulland

the embassy

Si la s Ad l er ’ s über -popu lar menswear labe l Sou l land drew we l l -dre s s ed peopl e f rom the world s o f s por t , publ i sh ing, f l amboyant f l aunta t i on and rap mus i c .

Our ne i ghbors t o th e northea s t , Sweden , a l s o make s l e ek fa sh ion and the i r embas sy ho s t ed a co c ta i l even t t o ce l ebra t e th e l aunch o f th e book Fash ion Scandinavia .

Rapper Ke s i had t o b e baby s i t t ed by pha l l i c sneakers -a f i c i onado Joach im SevenInch , a s i t was

h i s f i rs t t ime a t t end ing a fa sh ion show wi thou t we t nurs e Frede “Euro twink” Anders en

Fash ionabl e a s h e may be , DANSK Magaz ine ’ s Rasmus Sandberg i s never t oo proper t o

l augh a t a good o ld poop j oke

Eurowoman’ s Cami l la g ive s h er “no t impre s s ed” gaze be cau s e sh e doe sn’ t b e l i eve you rea l ly

appre c ia t ed th e fa sh ion t o th e ex t en t tha t h er d i s ce rn ing eye s d id

Sou l land-producer Jon probablydoe sn’ t l i s t en t o reggae

The on ly p eopl e who rea l ly g e t i t , obviou s ly

Non- l e sbian handba l l e r Mikke l Hansen went in to fa sh ion a sy lum th i s week t o avoid pers e cu t i on by

anyone wi th th e fa in t e s t in t e re s t in sport

Cut here and re ce ive your very own Frederik Anders en pa s sport pho to t o p la ce

in your wal l e t and bring a l ong everywhere

Subvert ing a l l convent ion s o f s t y l eSpa l t PR’ s John Chri s t o f f e r sho cked th e p ersona l in carna t i on o f f a sh ion week Anne Chri s t ine wi th

h i s po s s ib ly -Givenchy s t y l e sho cker

The s e sneaky s t y l e -add i c t s ga t e c ra shed every s ing l e even t o f Copenhagen Fash ion week

Swedi sh ambas sador Inga Erik s s s on Fogh i s a red-ho t d ip l omat i c f o rce t o b e re ckone wi th

The Swedi sh upper c la s s bara ä l skar Danmark !

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PHOTOS – JONAS GRUE WORDS – MAGNUS JOREMday birger

et mikkelsenDAY Birger e t Mikke l s en op t ed f o r an in- s t ore A/W pre s en ta t i on a t whi ch eager fa sh ion i s ta s cou ld peru s e th e new co l l e c t i on on iner t mode l s .

A mode l ne ed s no cap t i on

A con f iden t exponen t o f l a s t s ea son’ s My Li t t l e Pony ha ir a s pioneered by Lina Rafn

Marianne Brandi , th e F irs t Lady o f DAY and c rea t ive d i re c t or o f DAY Home I f you regre t jumping on the eyebrowle s s

bandwagon , th e b e s t remedy i s l onger bang s

The Ange la Merke l o f th e publ i sh ing world, Mal ene Mal l ing

DAY ’s head de s i gner Rikke Wienmann Mai wi th perpl exed b l onde a ccompl i ce

DAY’s mas t e rmind o f g l oba l dominat ion Pe t e r Henri ck s en p l o t s t h e way ahead wi th co l l eague

The a lways - inqui s i t ive f ounder o f DAY, Ke ld Mikke l s en , i s one handsome devi l

Thi s . Thi s i s how you s e l l f a sh ion . And she knows i t

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PHOTOS – JONAS GRUE WORDS – MAGNUS JOREMbaum

vs bruunsBaum und P f erdgart en j o ined f orce s wi th paren t company Bruuns Bazaar t o ce l ebra t e th e i r fabu lou s new combined f l ag sh ip s t o re .

Chri s t ian Hansen s ipping h i s da i ly g la s s o f champagne wi th f rowning f emal e company

Cute -a s -a- l o l l i pop Bjørn Bruun

Ivona Bruun and S igne Binds l ev are a s in s eparabl e a s th e Ol s en twins

Col l e c t ors o f med i eva l t o r ture in s t rument s

The f e ro c i ou s Andrea Nie l s en

Femme Regiona l e s’ Emi l i e and Ju l i e g ive th e I ron f lag graph i c d e s i gners i ron pol e s in th e i r pan t s

The e co - f ri end ly Pe t e r Ingwers en had a no t - s o - f ri end ly gaze , bu t h ey, tha t ’ s f a sh ion

He l l e He s t eha l e and Rikke Baumgartner

Te i s Bruun’ s s i gna ture mas cu l ine l ook emanat e s f a sh ion con f idence

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eventsSATURDAY - FEBRUARY 2, 2013

COpeNHageN FaSHION WeeK

SATURDAY - FEBRUARY 2, 2013COpeNHageN FaSHION FeSTIVaL

showsChedule

SATURDAY - FEBRUARY 2, 2013

FOR MORe eVeNTS aND SHOW DeTaILS gO TO www.copenhagen fa sh ion f e s t iva l . com

FOR MORe eVeNTS aND DeTaILS gO TO www.copenhagen fa sh ionweek . com

11.00-13.00 THE BIG BRUNCH - MADE IN ITALYVISION · LOKOMOTIVVæRKSTeDeT · Otto Bus s e s Ve j 5A, Copenhagen SV · open t o a l l t rade fa i r v i s i t o rs

12.00-22.00 COMMON HERITAGE FLAGSHIP STORE OPENINGaND OFFICIaL ReLeaSe OF SS13 COLLeCTION

Sindshvi l eve j 19 , Frederik sberg · by invi ta t i on on ly

16.00-17.00 AFTERHOUR BY HEINEKEN AND EGEKILDEVISION · LOKOMOTIVVæRKSTeDeT · Ot to Bus s e s Ve j 5A, Copenhagen SV · open t o a l l t rade fa i r v i s i t o rs

22.00 CPH FINEST FASHION WEEK CLOSING CELEBRATIONHOTeL SKT. peTRI · Krys ta l gade 22 , Copenhagen K · s i gn up f or gue s t l i s t

23.00-04.00 UNIQUE MODELS & PETER JENSEN CFW AFTERPARTYSIMONS · S tore S t rands t ræde 14 , Copenhagen K · by invi ta t i on on ly

BY INVITATIONS ONLY

13.00-14.00 CIFF KIDS TREND SHOWBeLLa CeNTeR · Center Bou l evard 5 , Copenhagen S

FOR MORe eVeNTS aND DeTaILS gO TO www.copenhagen fa sh ion f e s t iva l . com

DAILY EVENTS

SHOp · MaCaROONS WITH aTTITUDe · La gLaCeSKOUBO GADE 3 , COPENHAGEN K · OPEN TO ALL

FaSHION IN FILM FeSTIVaL · CINeMaTIC STYLe · BIRDS OF paRaDISe COpeNHageN eDT. LLLCINEMATEKET & NIKOLAJ ART HALL, COPENHAGEN K · OPEN TO ALL

SHOp · 30 JaN-2 FeB · COMpaNYS ORIgINaL - eXTRaVagaNT CeLeBRaTION OF MaLeNe BIRgeRFREDERIKSBERGGADE 24, COPENHAGEN K · OPEN TO ALL

12.00, SHOPPING, NAME IT — FASHION FOR KIDSVimmel ska f t e t 42 , Copenhagen K

12.00-14.00, COMPETITION, ORGREEN KOBENHAVN — GO SHADYStore Regnegade 1 , Copenhagen K · open t o a l l

14.00 & 15.00, SHOW, FOOTY FASHIONSapaIR · Ny Øs t e rgade 3 , Copenhagen K · open t o a l l

14.00-16.00, SHOPPING, TOMMY HILFIGER - NEWS HITS THE SHELVESØstergade 26 , Copenhagen K · open t o a l l

14.00-16.00, SHOPPING/COMPETITION, INSPIRATION FOR YOUR SPRING LOOKMAGASIN PERSONAL SHOPPING

MagaSIN · 2ND FLOOR · Kongens Nytorv 13 , Copenhagen K · open t o a l l

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