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THE PORTRAYAL OF WOMEN: WHAT IS BEAUTY?

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Abstract

Purpose:

The purpose of this thesis was to explore the portrayal of women within the beauty industry in

regards to advertising. In understanding the perceptions of women, brands within the beauty

industry would be able to identify a number of factors and ways in which they could ideally advertise

to women.

Method:

In interviewing 14 different females from two different age groups with the use of the Zaltman

technique allowed the introduction of a method which brands could ideally use when understanding

their consumers.

Key Findings:

In using the Zaltman technique as a way of understanding women, it was able to conclude that

beauty is multifaceted and not a singular stereotypical definition as portrayed in the media.

Keywords:

Beauty, Stereotypes, Representation, Women, Zaltman, Multifaceted, Self-Concept, Beauty Myth

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Acknowledgements

First and foremost I would like to thank God for keeping me and allowing me to get this far in my

studies. There’s no amount of words that could express what you have done but I owe you

everything. Secondly, I would like to acknowledge my parents and brother for always having my back

and encouraging me to do better in my life. Your love and support has helped me so much through

my entire life and for that I appreciate and love you all.

A special thank you goes out to; Diana and Deverley Brown, Dominique Parker, Norma Parker,

Abigail Maburutse, Leon Brown, Takea Brown and Professor Robert Beckford. Without all of your

prayers and support I don’t know what I would have done and because of that I am very grateful.

I would like to thank all the candidates that participated in the interviews and I also would like to

acknowledge and thank my lecturers over the past few years that have helped me progress through

my studies. So thank you to; Kuldeep Branwait, Alison Lawson, Nick Turner, Charles Hancock and Ian

Churm.

Last but most definitely not least I would like to give a huge thank you to my awesome supervisor

David Longbottom. Over the last three years you have been a blessing. Without you I know I

wouldn’t have produced such a piece as this.

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Table of Contents Abstract .................................................................................................................................................. 2

Acknowledgements ................................................................................................................................ 3

Chapter 1: Introduction .......................................................................................................................... 5

1.1 Aims and Objectives ...................................................................................................................... 6

Chapter 2: Background ........................................................................................................................... 7

2.1 Gender stereotyping ..................................................................................................................... 8

2.2: Problem Definition ....................................................................................................................... 8

Chapter 3: Literature Review ................................................................................................................ 9

3.1 Representation of Women: Past and Present ............................................................................ 10

3.2 The Ideal Women: The Beauty Myth .......................................................................................... 12

3.3 Self-concept: “Are you what you consume?” ............................................................................. 14

Chapter 4: Methodology ...................................................................................................................... 17

4.1 Philosophical Approach ............................................................................................................... 18

4.2 Research Design .......................................................................................................................... 19

4.2.1 Research Instrument ................................................................................................................ 19

4.2.2 Timescale ................................................................................................................................. 19

4.2.3 Data analysis ............................................................................................................................ 20

4.3 Limitations: Validity, reliability and bias ..................................................................................... 21

4.4 Summary ..................................................................................................................................... 21

Chapter 5: Data Findings ...................................................................................................................... 22

5.1 Findings of women: 18-30 years old ........................................................................................... 24

5.2 Findings of women: 45-60 years old ........................................................................................... 30

Chapter 6: Data Analysis ...................................................................................................................... 36

6.1 Common themes of women aged 18-30 years old ..................................................................... 37

6.2 Common themes of women ages 45-60 years old ..................................................................... 40

6.3 Summary ..................................................................................................................................... 42

Chapter 7: Conclusion .......................................................................................................................... 43

7.1 Recommendations ................................................................................................................ 44

Chapter 8: References .......................................................................................................................... 67

Chapter 9: Appendices ......................................................................................................................... 70

9.1 Self-Structured Interview questions ..................................................................................... 71

9.2 Questioning Strategies, some illustrative examples ............................................................. 72

9.3 Candidates images: Group 18-30 year olds .......................................................................... 73

9.4 Candidate images: Group 45-60 year olds ............................................................................ 80

9.5 Candidates’ beauty collage ................................................................................................... 86

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Chapter 1:

Introduction

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This thesis will focus on how the portrayal of women has altered over the last few decades and how

various women (of today) perceive beauty to be. The use of the literature reviews and primary

research will hopefully begin to outline the effects (in regards to perceptions of beauty) that have

been formed throughout these years. This will hopefully aid companies within the women’s fashion

industry to understand the best ways of advertising to them.

With companies not always having had the ability to advertise in the best way, this may have led to

many problems regarding how women saw themselves. According to many past studies, certain

types of advertisements, may have led to increases in problems such as food; disorders and

depression as well as an increase in industries such as the diet and cosmetic industry but also

cosmetic surgery. (Peach, 1998) (Gauntlett, 2002) (Fay & Price , 1994) (Martin & Peters, 2005)

1.1 Aims and Objectives

The overall aim of this thesis therefore, is to evaluate changes in the portrayal of women and beauty in contemporary advertising and to identify critical consumer perceptions (factors in women and beauty), which may influence brand preferences.

The study will focus primarily on:

Female perceptions in the age groups of 18-30 and 45-60

The objectives of this thesis are as follows:

1. Literature Review: Review literature on the portrayal of women to identify any trends and critical factors which

may influence brand preferences.

2. Primary Research Carry out primary research (interviews) to illustrate consumer perceptions of women and beauty in order to identify critical factors which may influence brand preferences. Semi Structured interviews:

Women aged 18-30

Women aged 45-60

3. Develop a framework of critical perspectives and factors between women and beauty to

inform marketers within the women’s fashion industry.

The collection of data from both age groups will hopefully bring to a conclusion ways of developing different company brand images (within the fashion industry) and an understanding of the choices in consumer buying behaviour.

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Chapter 2:

Background

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2.1 Gender stereotyping

Since the ‘beginning of creation’, it had been assessed that “men ruled the world” therefore women

were seen as the “underdogs” of life. Throughout the 20th and 21st century women have been

portrayed through many media outlets in a number of ways such as being a more passive, weaker

and victimised person, whilst men have consistently been shown as the one to depend on, a strong

and hard worker (Gauntlett, 2002) (Gunter, 1995). Stated by Crawford and Unger (2004) “gender

stereotypes have consisted of a network associations involved in personality traits, social roles,

behaviours, and physical characteristics.” Within both genders, stereotypes can influence many

assumptions about how men and women are supposed to be.

The reviewed literature has revealed how the appearance of women throughout the variety of

media outlets has considerably altered over the last 50 years. This literature (see chapter three) have

come to the conclusion that although there have been a changes in how women have been

represented within the media, many companies in the retail market have not adapted their ways of

advertising their products to them. Gunter (1995) stated that over the last four decades (since

1950’s) both genders (women especially) have been involved within stereotypes within television

drama. Whilst this is true, the stereotyping has not only been shown by television channels but

within many other media such as print (newspapers and magazines) and online. According to

Crawford & Unger (2004), Hernandez (1994) presented statistics about the 1990’s newspapers and

the lack of women power.

Comments by men on the front pages in mainstream newspapers in the USA were over 75%

whilst women only were quoted 25% of the time.

Reports that were about women only were used about 15% of the time as the front page

story

Women were mainly painted as negative much more than men in a large majority of

newspapers.

(Crawford & Unger, 2004)

2.2: Problem Definition

Due to the constant changes in the world, many fashion companies that catered to women would

have to ensure that they understood their own target markets perception of beauty. Unfortunately,

it can be argued that many fashion companies are still promoting the ‘thin is beautiful’ concept by

advertisements within their stores. Examples include, Abercrombie and Fitch (London store) which

had been criticised and accused of excluding plus-sized customers from their store due to their sizes

of clothing which had been seen to stop at a size 10. According to Robin Lewis (co-author of The

New Rules of Retail) (Lutz, 2013), Mike Jefferies (the CEO of Abercrombie and Fitch) voiced that he

‘didn’t want larger people shopping in his store, only thin and beautiful people.’ (Mail, 2013)

In previous studies, businesses have come across as not listening to what their consumers

considered to be beautiful. (Martin & Peters, 2005) These indirect promotions of the “beauty myth”

have been used throughout advertising from as far back as the 1960’s if not longer. Prior to this the

portrayal of women was not only this “myth” but also regarded characteristics (cognitive: looks and

appearance) and tacit (intelligence and personality). (Gunter, 1995)

Due to this aspect, this study hopes to be able to show brands within the fashion industry the

opinions from different women in regards to what beauty is for them. This will hopefully help them

understand how they can advertise to create a stronger relationship between themselves and their

consumers.

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Chapter 3:

Literature Review

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This chapter will consider reviewed literature on the changes that have contributed to the

representation of women from the 1960’s to this present day. Focussing on this particular topic, the

literature will provide three important themes which arose throughout the study. These themes are:

Representation of Women: Past and Present

The Ideal Woman: The Beauty Myth

Self-concept: “Are you what you consume?”

The themes (previously stated) will introduce past studies into beauty within the fashion industry,

the perceptions of beauty for women, and whether there had been any changes in the world into

how beauty is currently perceived.

3.1 Representation of Women: Past and Present Studies conducted by Goffman (1979) and Gauntlett (2002) made aware that in the past both

genders had been represented through a variety of medias in a number of diverse ways. From

previous studies Gunter (1995) and Elasmar et al. (1999) came to the conslusion (based on US TV

programmes) that through the 50’s, 60’s and 70’s the percentage of women on TV in speaking roles

were signifcantly lower than men. At this time the perentage were merely 20-35% compared to men

who were cosiderably more at 65-80%. Whilst women of these decades had time on TV many of the

roles played were the stereotypical, traditional roles i.e. housewife roles.

The stereotypes portrayed of women in advertisements, were not only expressed through TV but by

other media outlets such as magazines. Betty Friedan (american author, activist and feminist)

recalled a 1960 magazine (see image 3.1) published by McCalls (monthly American womens

magazine) in which she considered produced “the image of woman.” (Gauntlett, 2002)

With a critique explanation of her statement In her book ‘The Feminine Mystique’ (1963) she

expressed her views on how the popular 20th century magazine stereotyped the image of women as

a whole. She expressed her opinion by saying that the

image that emerged from this particular magazine was

content concerning each of the five; the bedroom,

kitchen, home, children and sex; with the overall goal in

which she explained was how a woman ‘is permitted to

persuit a man.’ (Frieden, 1963)

Whilst this may have been the case in the 1960’s, (that

the typical stereotype of women was a home-bound

image), this has gradually changed between then and

this present day. Not only are women still portrayed

much more than men, but both genders are being

stereotyped in a particular ways.

(Image 3.1: McCalls 1960 July Issue)

(Backissues, n.d.)

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Previously explained, (see chapter two) in the past both genders had been shown in different lights

in advertisements; men being seen as the breadwinner/hard worker whilst women were seen as a

good wife and mother. Although this was a consistent portrayal of men and women throughout

mass media advertising, over the past 70 years the stereotypes of both genders clearly began to

change. From the typical domesticated roles for women and dependent upon roles for men,

advertisements across the western world had seemed to adapt its ‘old’ stereotypes connecting both

genders with sexualised roles.

Although both genders were shown to be portrayed as sexual objects within the advertising sector,

it had seemed that women were seen to be more frequently sexualised. (Gauntlett, 2002)

Gauntlett (2002) stated that through the decades most women were objectified with their overall

appearance and personality in a number of men’s media outlets and advertisements; although

nowadays it has shown (from a number of well-known women’s magazines) the objectifying of men.

This has included many US magazines such as cosmopolitan which included sections titled ‘Men

Unzipped’ and ‘Secrets of male arousal’ (see images 3.2, 3.3) (Anon., n.d.)

Cosmopolitan July 2004 (image 3.2) Cosmopolitan July 2007 (image 3.3)

It could be argued that due to the variety of gender images (as shown by different medias) this could

have had an impact on the opinions of how both genders see the oposite sex. (Gauntlett, 2002)

Could this in fact have meant that the media may have had more power over the worlds population

than previously assumed?

The use of not only TV but many other outlets such as magazines/newspapers and the increased

popularity and consumption of digital internet usage has brought a greater source of information to

men and women. With various images over numerous media outlets, the general public (in the past)

could have understood it to be factual information,which therefore could lead to the belief that the

the media had a greater impact into the publics outlook on the opposite sex.

Theodor Adorno and John Fiske (two well known theorists), identifed their own views in regards to

the previously statement. Whilst Theodor Adorno agreed with this point, (that there was indeed

media power over the public), which according to him was very damaging, John Fiske opposed this

argument expressing his view that the public had more power over the media. (Adorno, 1991)

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Theodor Adorno presented his views expressing that the phrase mass media, to him was in fact ‘the

culture industry due to the machined like production of entertainment, which was in order to gain

profit for that particular person(s) and/or company(ies)’. (Marris & Thornham, 1996) He consistantly

argued that the supposed mass media was not in fact made or produced by the public but what

products were produced from the mass media, was according to him ‘exactly the same.’

Adorno continued to state as an example that the public had the assumption that the media had

often provided them with a wide range of various products and services when in fact, was only an

illusion. According to him the public, had a range of products and services to choose from but they

‘had to accept what the culture manufacturers offered.’ (Adorno, 1991)

This assumption of the mass media being less powerful than the public could potentially be a ploy in

an overall plan of profit gaining. Then again this could had been another profound statement where

the theorist was trying to “make something out of nothing.”

Thus, this section can be drawn to conclude that in the past 60 years there has been a gradual shift

in what beauty was considered to be, due to how women were portrayed by different media outlets.

It can be debated that the portrayal of women by the media could have in fact introduced a ‘one

best look’ persona in which would impact the opinions women in regards of how men would see

them.

Subsequently, it can be shown that while the image presented may have changed from the

domesticity roles to a more ‘up to date’ image, there remains a core of stereotyping that the

theorists expressed as being far from the truth.

3.2 The Ideal Women: The Beauty Myth

The second finding addressed a number of issues relevant to how the world has progressed to due

to media influences. Another theme that presented itself during the review was the “ideal woman

persona” also known as the Beauty myth, which according to Scott (2006) many women have tried

to become.

‘Is the Beauty Myth Real?’

According to Wolf (1991) a large segment of females of all ages have involved themselves in trying to

become this ‘ideal woman’ that they have seen via many media outlets. Explained in the first

chapter of Wolf’s book – The Beauty Myth, she expresses “the universal existence of women

wanting to embody the beauty features and characteristics”, of the ideal woman.

Although this was a strong statement to make, this may have been somewhat true. Whilst

researching the changes in advertisements of the western world fashion industry, what continuously

surfaced were two different views about ‘beauty requirements” (Peach, 1998). Where Scott (2006)

thought that there were multiple images that were sometimes contradictive, Wolf (1991) and

Kilbourne, (1990), believed that there was one consistent image who’s particular requirement was a

full busted, slender white woman. Agreeing somewhat with Wolf (1991) and Kilbourne, (1990), Rudd

& Lennon (2000) believed that in the western world at this present time the ideal beauty had been

based mainly on a women being thin, fit and attractive.

Although both views are challenging to one another, both views could potentially be correct as it

could have been dependent on the point of time in which both views were considering. Wolf (1991)

and Kilbourne, (1990) had voiced their opinions back in the 1990’s in which many literature

(expressed before) gave the impression that throughout the mass media, the majority of images

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containing women produced a particular look. Unlike Wolf (1991) and Kilbourne, (1990), Scott

(2006) voiced her opinion much closer to this present time in the late millennium. Therefore her

views could naturally be considering what she is seeing today in which has considerably altered since

the 1990’s.

(StylesGlow, n.d.) (image 3.5)

(image 3.4) (Candices Wanepoel, n.d.)

If the question is asked if the beauty myth had been applied to many advertisements in the past,

then the answer may have very well been a yes. Many studies as well as primary research into

women and overall media acknowledgement have concluded that there has been a change in beauty

and who may be considered beautiful. Changes have included large, well-known companies such as

Dove (2004) and Diesel (Sidell, 2014) enhancing the difference in beauty as well as well-known TV

shows (for example, America’s next top model) opening the doors to different, but beautiful women

i.e. Chantelle Brown-Young. (Olya, 2014)

Currently Dove is impacting the world by their new Real Beauty campaign (Dove, 2004) which has

presented a variety of women in all different shapes and sizes expressing their own beauty. In this

campaign, beauty has not been shown as a specific look but a range of looks, branching into

something new each day. For instance a contestant on America’s next top model Chantelle Brown-

Young was able to beat her own insecurities of how she looked, and show the world that you could

be beautiful even with a skin condition called vitiligo. (Adams, 2015)

(Adams, 2015) (Image 3.6/3.7)

Is the Beauty Myth the replacement of the old domesticity myth?

First excerpt from The Beauty Myth by Wolf, (1991), Peach, (1998) expresses that Wolf noted:

‘That the images of beauty that women in American culture encountered were not specifically

objective facts, but were products made from previous historical facts. In which this beauty myth was

only born in the 1960’s to replace the myths in the past which were of domesticity.’

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If this was the case could it be argued that because of the changes in the 1960’s in regards to women

being able to have corporate jobs, the myth of them belonging in the home as a wife and mother

had to come to an end?

Is this the end of the ‘beauty myth?’

Concluding from the first excerpt from The Beauty Myth by Naomi Wolf (1991), Peach (1998)

expresses that Wolf noted:

‘That the myth was in fact not about women but was about the institution of men and their

institutional power. That the competition between women had encouraged this myth and that in

trying to stay young and slender was the best thing to do as aging in women would be seen as

‘unbeautiful.’

It can also be agreed that the statement in which the beauty myth was indeed not for women but

for men. This could be due to how the majority of high leading female brands within the fashion

industry have one thing in common, the constant managerial role filled by men. This could mean the

men heading up these particular brands have a similar attraction on a certain image which could

initially have contributed to the ‘beauty myth’ persona.

Based on the findings of the ‘one best look image, (identified as the medias perception of the role of

women in the previous section) and the perceived idea of a particular look is ‘beautiful’, it could be

fair not to assume that there is one definition of beauty but in fact several different perceptions of

what beauty is identified as.

3.3 Self-concept: “Are you what you consume?”

The third theme that came from the literature was self-concept, ‘The belief one has about oneself.’

(Blythe, 2013)

Divided into 5 different components (see table 1), the perception of oneself according to many

theorists contribute to an individual’s purchasing decisions. (Blythe, 2013) (Solomon & Rabolt, 2009)

(De Chernatony, et al., 2011) (Martin & Hosany, 2012) (Onkvisit & Shaw, 1987)

Component Explanation

Real self Actual, objective self, as others see us Problematic within the defined explanation as other people never know the full story of someone. The real self may be more than face value.

Self-image Subjective self, as we see ourselves This is modified over time due to feedback from others We modify our own image based on the reactions of others

Ideal self How we wish we were This provokes the continuous spending as a someone tries to make up the gap between self-image and ideal self

Looking-glass self Social self, the way we think other people see us Doesn’t always coincide with what others see us

Possible self The selves we may become or the selves we wish we could become. Table 1

Adapted from: (Blythe, 2013, p. 90)

Blythe (2013) identified the means of the looking glass self, expressing that this was one of the key

‘self’s’ which contributed to the particular brand products bought for an individual’s cognitive (outer

look) style. As others will only see the outward appearance, purchases of clothing and other

accessories according to Solomon & Rabolt (2009) would help determine the perceived self-image.

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Considering the perceived beauty characteristics and a woman’s self-image, it can be concluded that

to understand what beauty is to a particular woman, their personal perception of how they would

want their outward image to be seen as, would indeed play a key role into what products they would

want to purchase. For example, if the woman wanted to be seen as natural, then their choice of a

cosmetic brand will differ from someone who didn’t consider natural as beautiful.

For that reason, it can be suggested that due to the obsessive outlook on how beauty has been

portrayed as in various industries (due to the media perception), it can be pointed out that the ‘one

best look persona’ has indeed changed but many key characteristics (identified in the literature)

have not in reality changed. This includes changes in what is considered beautiful in the sense of

race, sex and age while the same concept of ‘one best look’ remains by someone’s size and shape (as

seen on fashion catwalks and in store promotions i.e. manikins and posters).

Even though the given changes in beauty requirements has been acknowledged, the ‘one best look’

persona is still very much apparent in large industries such as the beauty industry. Although this

persona is very much outdated, it is very much evident and presented by naïve businesses who have

not understood the definite changes in how the public view beauty. To illustrate, one of the most

common uses of the ‘one best look’ persona can be found in many of the car dealership shows and is

still very much predictable in the entertainment industry.

Despite the fact that those that attend the car shows are very much diverse in gender, age groups

and lifestyle, the use of women with the ‘one best look’ persona is still the main advertisement in

presenting a car to the public (see image 3.8/3.9). Whilst some marketers may have seen the

changes in who were most likely to purchase cars from these shows (i.e. those with a greater

disposable income e.g. pensioners), there are still a large presence in marketers advertising by the

use of the ‘one best look’ to promote to the entire customer base. Marketers using women with this

‘look’ as an advertisement prop, presents the key argument that they do not in fact understand their

consumer base, that those that actually purchase these cars are people that would typically have a

different outlook in life compared to those of a younger age group.

(Image 3.8) (Image 3.9)

(Autospies, n.d.) (The Throttle, 2012)

Conversely, there are brands that had realised the transition of the public’s beauty characteristics

but recognised also the self-conscious views due to the insight of what the media’s beauty

characteristics were. Demonstrated by Dove (body care brand) (presented previously) expresses the

importance in loving your body and how you see beauty. In this case, Dove was able to understand

their market, and understand what they perceived beauty was for them instead of Dove presenting

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their own ideas of beauty. The Dove ‘effect, (having the ability to breakthrough), can be adapted to

all organisations when advertising to their potential consumer market. Being able to realise that

instead of advertising to consumers in the way their marketers perceive beauty to be, turning

around and ‘putting the ball in the consumers hands’ and comprehending that beauty ‘is in the eye

of the beholder’ could initially present a technique in adding brand value to that particular company.

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Chapter 4:

Methodology

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In order to correctly study and understand the perceptions of females in the two age groups stated,

specific research methods had to be used to produce the right information to analyse. Therefore this

chapter will consist of the methods that were used in this thesis to conduct the relevant research. It

will introduce a variety of other research methods that could have potentially been used also. From

the methods addressed, there will be a further evaluation on what was used and why it was used.

Lastly, it will conclude with a summary containing the main points made.

4.1 Philosophical Approach

The use of the philosophical approach helps determine how a researcher would firstly conduct their

specific research, as well as interpret their results. In order to understand how they would do so, a

researcher would firstly have to understand the two aspects that make up this approach. This

consists of the two elements called ontology and epistemology. (Saunders, 2009)

According to Saunders (2009), ontology “studies the nature of reality or being.” This means that the

researcher believes what is being studied is very much separate from them.

Epistemology is the second element which “studies the nature of knowledge and what constitutes

acceptable knowledge in a field of study.” (Saunders, 2009) This element consists of three

components: realism, positivism and interpretivism.

Realism (usually used with scientific research) allows the researcher to look and research

“something” that in reality does not know of their existence. In the case of this thesis, this did not

apply. (Saunders, 2009)

(Saunders, 2009)

Image 4.1

Shown above (see diagram 1) expresses the two different outlines that a researcher could use to

conduct their research. Diagram 1 explains the various layers that both approaches use in finding out

the best research method. (Saunders, 2009)

Positivism: looks among the yes/no questions. This is usually constructed through questionnaires

that a large group of people can take part in the research.

Interpretive: looks for in-depth information. This method acknowledges the opinions of people that

are participating within the research. This is usually used within interviews and focus groups.

Therefore the approach that will be used for this thesis will be the epistemology element from the

philosophical approach. This is due to what type of research needs to be conducted. Within the

epistemology element the approach that will be used will be interpretivism. The use of this type of

approach will help produce the opinions needed to understand the views of women in the relevant

age groups.

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4.2 Research Design

Dependant on what the researcher wishes to discover through their results, the type of method

used for their research would vary. Quantitative and qualitative methods are two different research

methods that can be used to construct results. (See table 4.1) The use of quantitative methods,

usually consist of questionnaires and are normally used to gain a large group of individual opinions,

in which the information contained is relatively shallow. Qualitative methods on the other hand

involve methods of collecting words to produce the results need for research. This method is

relatively used to gain individual opinions in regards to the specified research topic.

Qualitative Quantitative Table 4.1

Date collected is in words, pictures and/or objects

Use of numbers and statistics

Based on an individual’s interpretations on a particular point

Based on measuring and grouping individual opinions

Uses observations, interviews, focus groups to collect data

Uses questionnaires, surveys to collect data

In depth and more time is required Shallow information gathered and less time consuming

As a result of the information that the thesis will need to produce the method that will be used will

be a qualitative method. The use of this method will enable relevant views in regards to what

women’s perceptions of beauty were for themselves. The use of this information would help

companies within the women’s fashion industry advertise to them.

4.2.1 Research Instrument

The chosen method that was used through the research stage of the thesis was qualitative data with

individual interviews with 14 different women of two specified age groups. . Although there are

other methods that could have been used (such as focus groups) individual interviews were used for

a number of reasons. This included giving the opportunity to those interviewed to speak truthfully

about themselves and their own views on beauty. If focus groups were to be used this could have

hindered the point of retrieving the in-depth views on beauty and overall wants and needs within

the fashion industry.

Prior to the interviews, to make sure that all the interviews relatively had the same end result,

instructions were presented to each interviewee prior to the interview. This included:

Finding 7 images that they thought depicted what beauty was in regards to women

Choose a woman who was very well known that they thought carried all of these beauty

characteristics best

Additionally, (to keep all the interviews on the subject of beauty) based on the objectives of the

thesis as well as what the reviewed literature produced, a set of self-structured questions were

included. As stated before, as one of the objectives was to find out the perceptions of women

(within the specific age groups) on beauty, the use of the interview questions helped to identify the

factors that could influence a woman’s brand preference. (See appendix one)

4.2.2 Timescale

The timescale for this study was cross-sectional because of the time period that was going to be

used to gather the data. This time scale was used rather than longitudinal as the data was only

gathered at one point in time and not extended over a series of time.

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4.2.3 Data analysis

In order to produce the best results in regards to the perception of beauty for women, self-concept

and brand preference, much deeper research would have to take place.

Longbottom & Lawson (2015) pointed out that ‘from research via psychology work, many individuals

mostly thought by abstracts and images and not much structured words and sentences.’ If this was

the case, in order to gather in-depth responses to a particular study, methods such as interviews and

focus groups may not be sufficient. Piercy (2009) believed that in order for a researcher to gain the

perspectives of others, they would have to ‘go beyond the traditionalist methods.’

Therefore, presented previously (see literature review), it was suggested that for marketers to

advertise to their market more efficiently, that as an alternative of presenting their own beauty

views to advertise, they would in its place ‘put the ball in the consumers hands’ and understand how

they perceived beauty.

Hence, the method that will be chosen to understand what beauty is, will be the Zaltman metaphor

elicitation technique (ZMET). Incorporating a number of different images will help as it’ll ‘represent

the customers’ unconscious thoughts’ and help gain a deeper understanding into that particular

customer’s beauty preference.” (Zaltman & Zaltman, 2008) (Adapted from: Zaltman, n.d.)

Zaltman uses the inductive approach rather than the deductive approach as models associated with

this may not ideally help but in fact re-inforce ‘stereotypes’ and specific answers. The use of the

inductive approach would ideally help provide more answers into the factors that influence a

particulars woman’s views on beauty.

Image 4.2

Where quantitative methods will only retrieve shallow based emotions (level 1 surface) (image 4.2),

the use of the Zaltman technique would enable the researcher to get underneath the shallow

emotions and bring to light the deeper emotions (Level 2,3,4) which would relate to an individual’s

feelings and values.

This technique, (which is only prominent in other industries such as commercial and retail for brand

studies with Apple and Coca Cola), could ideally be a useful approach to apply to those in the

beauty/fashion industry to help organisations connect with their own target market. Using this

technique will help allow the consumer of a particular brand to identify to the company what and

how they may consider beauty, which could initially help (as explained before) by adding brand

value to that particular company.

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4.3 Limitations: Validity, reliability and bias

Internal validity determines whether the research methods used would indeed investigate what the

initial aim/objective was for the thesis. External validity on the other hand determines whether the

results gathered would help the wider population. To retrieve the data wanted, interviews was the

method used. Therefore, as the interviews would need to produce in-depth information, its internal

validity would be very high and positive. Due to the small number of persons that would be used for

the interviews, the external reliability would be very low. To produce very good internal and external

validity both interviews and questionnaires could have been used. Even though this would ideally

help, (as both internal and external validity would be high), the amount of information that would be

produced from the questionnaires would provide relatively shallow information and therefore not

produce the depth opinions needed.

There are a variety of bias that needs to be considered to enable the interviews to produce unbiased

views. This included:

Interviewer bias – “tone or nonverbal behaviour from the interviewer,” This could

potentially cause the interviewee to misinterpret what is being said and answer based on

how communicated.

The interviewer could create biased questions by imposing their own views on the issue.

In relation to previous points, if the interviewee is unable to develop trust towards the

interviewer, this could potentially create shallow answers due to the interviewee not being

open enough to produce their real views on a particular question.

Overall there are many issues that could create bias answers (see above), although to limit the

amount of biasness within the interview, preparations had to be put in place. This included making

sure that all questions that were going to be asked were previously backed up by literature found

and not on the interviewers own views. As well as this, there were preparations within the different

locations used. The location used were places where both interviewer and interviewees were

comfortable to speak and would be unlikely to be disturbed. The use of these pre preparations

enabled the interviews to produce more reliable information that would be used for the official

analysis. Whilst conducting the interviews, to help examine the views of each interviewee,

dependent on the interviewee certain questioning strategies will be used. This includes asking for

interviewees to tell a story on a particular beauty image or asking to rank/rate their views in scales.

(appendix two)

4.4 Summary

To conclude, this chapter was able to state the decision in to which method of data collection would

be used and why. Making sure that the information gathered was collected by in-depth views from

different women in the relevant age groups, it expressed other ways that could have been used also.

To summarise, what will follow is the results retrieved from the interviews conducted. The data

obtained will hopefully:

Produce 13 different women’s perspectives on what ‘beauty’ to them was, in relevance to

women.

Provide views (from these women) about the fashion brands they personally purchase from

Produce ideas in which brands from the fashion industry can use to understand how they

can retail to their own target market

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Chapter 5: Data

Findings

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To review, the primary research consisted of 13 different women partaking in an individual

interviews to express their views on what beauty (in relevance to women) meant to them.

Unfortunately one of the limitations that occurred was that a number of participants did not

understand the overall objective and therefore decided not to participate. Consequently, the

number of women that participated (including interview) consisted of 12 women. One woman was

able to participate in presenting her visuals of beauty for her, which will also be included.

All participants varied in different ethnicities but have lived in the UK for more than 10 years. The

use of this allowed there to introduce potential cultural differences from the different ethnic

backgrounds. Below (see table 4.1) gives the total of participants that was interviewed for this

assignment. The age and ethnicity has been given as it may have contributed to their own personal

views.

18-30 year olds

Participant Age Currently living Ethnicity Table 4.1

1 18 Sheffield Black British – Caribbean

2 19 Derbyshire Indian British

3 21 London Black British – Caribbean

4 21 Bristol Black British – African

5 22 Chesterfield British – Irish

6 27 Cambridge Black British – Caribbean

7 30 London Black British – Caribbean

Therefore the following results have been sectioned into the relevant age groups in which two

candidates from each group was chosen to present its findings in comparison to the other

candidates. The use of these results will hopefully provide a clear understanding of the common

themes that each age groups had in common, which will then be analysed in the following chapter.

The two candidates chosen will be:

Candidate 1 and 2 from the 18-30 age group

Candidate 8 and 12 from the 45-60 age group

45-60 year olds

Participant Age Currently living Ethnicity Table 4.2

8 46 Derbyshire British

9 47 Sheffield Black British – Caribbean

10 48 Derbyshire British

11 51 Cambridge Black British – Caribbean

12 59 Cambridge Caribbean

13 60 Derbyshire British

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5.1 Findings of women: 18-30 years old

Candidate 1:

Candidate one presented 10 images in which they said described beauty for them. The theme that

presented itself throughout the interview was family, love and feeling great in how you looked.

Picture 5.1.1: Friendship

I only have one sibling, my brother. His never at home so you see

friends are just like my extended brothers and sisters. ‘Their apart

of my life, you need friends so you’re not lonely.

It’s beautiful to have friends in all aspects of your life, you’ll need

them to back you up and progress in life ’

Picture 5.1.2: Christian values

It’s all about making the right

decisions, doing the right things. I

was brought up in church by my

parents. Every other day was some

church event. This has been a part

of my life for so long. I’m so close

to some of the people at church

their like my second mum and

dad.

Picture 5.1.3: Natural black beauty

I’ve been living in Sheffield all of my life. I was brought up

surrounded by people with the best hair. They were long curly

and straight, me on the other hand, it was always short and

kinky. I hated my hair so much and

to be honest I still have some hatred

of my hair. I believe that nowadays

a lot of people are hiding actually

being fake. So when I see people

who look like me but wear their hair

out having little to no makeup on,

all natural I feel so uplifted because

all I see is so much confidence,

golden and awesome people.

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Picture 5.1.4: Dance

It’s beautiful because it’s a way were I

can express myself without words.

Whether I’m happy, sad or whatever

there’s always music and movements in

where I can bring out all the emotions

I’m feeling at that time

Picture 5.1.5: Travelling

Seeing different places in the world. Being able to

grow up and have the money and ability to see

different places with someone would be awesome.

The worlds a great place why not go around it and

see what it has to offer.

Picture 5.1.6: Goals

I want to reach way above the expectations of

what the world assuming someone like me could

achieve. As a young woman I would want to try

and get to my goal so that I can be successful

and eventually be looked up to by my future

children.

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“Being able to grow up and have the money and

ability to see different places with someone”

“I feel so uplifted because all I see is so

much confidence, golden and

awesome”

people.”

“Try and get to my goal so that I can

be successful”

“I can express myself without words.”

“I’m so close to some of the people at

church their like my second mum and dad.”

“You need friends so you’re not

lonely”

Candidates 1’s six images

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Candidate 2:

Candidates 2 presented 8 images in which varied in beauty

characteristics.

Picture 5.1.8: Elderly woman

Beauty has no age. No matter what age you are you can flaunt your

thing. There’s no limit. My mum looks great for her age, she gets her

hair done, nails done. She looks better than me sometimes.

I mean when I get older, I believe I could have this confidence in

looking great for my age.

Picture 5.1.9: A petite woman thinking she’s

overweight

This is how nowadays society sees themselves.

You see how so many women want to get

thinner and thinner and thinner until there’s

nothing there. I think it’s ridiculous.

It makes you think is beauty only on the outside

and not on your inside? Right now I’m classed as

overweight, but from inside I know I’m beauty

from inside out. I’m confident in my looks.

Society has one opinion and I have mine. If you

have a strong mind set I believe you should stick

to something you believe in.

Picture 5.1.10: A woman with little/no make up

So many women out there forget simplicity is

beauty, natural is beauty. I’ve spoken to so many

ladies where they would never come out in public

without make up. I believe media that perceives

people like Kim Kardashian as beautiful doesn’t

really know the real meaning of beautiful. I think

they’ve twisted to their own belief. They’ve made

it a standard for beauty when there isn’t a

standard for beauty. What you why not enhance

that.

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Picture 5.1.11: A lady in tracksuit

A woman feeling comfortable is a great feeling. Having

the ability to strip off and walk confidently down the

road wearing what they think is comfortable is a great

right?

I don’t put any make up on, put my trackys on and I feel

great. It’s all about confidence. I think beauty is a big

thing that a lot of people are paranoid about. They

don’t like something so many hide themselves in

fashion, in make-up. It’s learning to be yourself and set

your own trend.

Picture 5.1.12: Motherhood

It’s very much underrated. People should

appreciate it more. Creating your own little

world. Hopefully every lady in their life would

experience it. I look at this picture and I know

I’m going to have kids, it makes me think about

the values I’m going to teach my child.

Picture 5.1.13: Bald lady (Amber Rose)

Strong statement. It’s known as a woman’s crown, your hair. Hair

is a big thing, I think bald women are so beauty. I think hair is so

overrated. Girls can have a short cut, bald and still look good.

Bald women are so free spirited, a breath of fresh air.

Picture 5.1.14: Celebrity on catwalk

She has all the qualities. When she’s doing her day to day

business. She doesn’t wear make up every day, she puts her

hair up, wears comfortable clothing. She’s so confident, she’s

so underrated.

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“Beauty has no age, you can flaunt

your thing. There’s no limit”

“So many women want to get thinner and

thinner and thinner. I think it’s ridiculous.”

“Simplicity is beauty, natural

is beauty” “Beauty is a big thing that a lot of people

are paranoid about”

“Very much underrated. People should

appreciate it more” “Women can have a short cut,

bald and still look good.”

Candidate’s 2’s seven images

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5.2 Findings of women: 45-60 years old

Candidate 8:

Picture 5.2.1: Hair

A point of beauty for women. It’s so varied, women can wear it in

lots of different ways. When I searched online for hair, there

were so many more images of long hair than short hair. I think

there is a myth or an urban myth that long hair is beauty.

Probably because there’s more of it.

Picture 5.2.2: Somebody with no make-up on

I chose this because I think women are beautiful full stop. They don’t need make

up to make them look more beautiful. When you look at the photo before, she

clearly has a lot of make-up on, she doesn’t look real. This woman has no make-

up on, she looks real. This is what real human beings look like. That is beauty, the

inner beauty coming through. She’s not hiding behind any make-up it’s who she is.

Picture 5.2.3: Anika Roddick: Founder of body shop

She was beauty person, not particularly to look at, but she had

beautiful ideals. That made her a beautiful person and what makes

you beautiful isn’t necessarily what you look like but perhaps what

you do, think and say. How you present yourself to the world and

what you stand for. She was strong and confident woman.

Picture 5.2.4: A middle age woman hugging an

elderly woman

It showed family, caring and relationships, that

loving bond. Beauty is more than just an image,

more than what you look like. It’s about who you

are, what you do and what you think and how you

act as well as what you look like. The concept of

beauty is very difficult, I mean what is beauty? Is

beauty about your physical appearance or

something much deeper, something within us.

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Picture 5.2.5: A rose

When you said beauty it was the first thing that came to mind

and in fact it’s my middle name. I picked that because it’s

something beautiful about the world that has a connection of a

sort to women because women can be named after flowers

and I think that is because flowers are beautiful and people

like to depict beauty even in people’s names. My dad always

grew roses and his dad use to grow roses and when I was born

my dad brought in roses to my mum when she gave birth to

me.

Picture 5.2.6: The smile

Someone’s smile is very important, it can convey beauty. It lights up

someone’s face it shows joy, happiness. A smile can change a face

dramatically from being plan to being beautiful.

Smiling is a part of the beauty in people. Happiness and beauty is

connected to me, I mean people look beautiful when their happy.

Picture 5.2.7: Best friend

It’s the idea of being a beautiful person rather than looking

beautiful. She’s lots of things that encapsulates inner beauty

rather than the superficial outer beauty. She’s a mum, she

spends a lot of time with them.

Picture 5.2.8: Actress: Helen Mirren

She looks beautiful, graceful, elegance, she’s very successful and

has some sort of calmness about her. She seems like she has

authority.

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Women can wear it in lots of different

ways, although there seems to be a

myth or an urban myth that long hair is

beauty

This woman has no make-up on, she looks

real. This is what real human beings look

like

Beautiful isn’t necessarily what you look

like but what you do, think and say

Beauty is more than just an image, it’s

about who you are, what you do and

what you think and how you act

Women can be named

after flowers and I

think that is because

flowers are beautiful Smile is very

important, it lights up

someone’s face.

Encapsulates inner beauty

rather than the superficial

outer beauty

Candidate 8’s eight images:

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Candidate 12:

5.2.9: New mother

I remember the first time holding my first child, the

absolute tears of joy that came. I don’t know I think every

woman should experience it. I really don’t think there’s

anything more beautiful for a mum holding her baby for

the first time.

5.2.10: Bride

This is my daughter actually. I saw radiant. I’ve never

seen a miserable looking bride. It’s not about the

make-up. They just look real.

5.2.11: Pregnancy

That bit of mystery, you know. Waiting to find out what

your child will look like. I think nowadays people

especially the media doesn’t seem to value that time of

pregnancy or the pregnant person in fact.

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5.2.12: Strong character

It’s important for a woman to have a strong character and not

be easily led. Being able to know where you’re going. It

presents maturity and confidence to be honest.

5.2.13: Smile

I was told once that certain women looked

miserable at all times. I think in its self I see

natural beauty in someone smiling. It lights

up someone’s face.

5.2.14: Embracing age

Something I can identify with. Growing old

gracefully. I think even when you reach a grand old

age, you can still turn heads. You can be an example

to people coming up, showing age isn’t nothing to

fear but to embrace.

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There’s anything more beautiful for

a mum holding her baby for the first

time.

It’s not about the make-up. They

just look real

Media doesn’t seem to value that

time of pregnancy

It presents maturity and confidence

I see natural beauty in someone

smiling Age isn’t nothing to fear but to embrace.

Candidate’s 12’s six images

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Chapter 6: Data

Analysis

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As identified in chapter four, the use of the Zaltman metaphor elicitation technique (ZMET) would

help ‘represent the customers’ unconscious thoughts’ and help gain a deeper understanding into

that particular customer.’ (Zaltman & Zaltman, 2008) (Adapted from: Zaltman, n.d.) For that reason

it is believed using this method could initially help a particular company understand its brand in the

eyes of its consumers by the use of images. Asking each consumer to present images in which they

consumer associated with the brand could ideally help the company in identifying what may need to

change to increase their market growth.

In the case of this thesis, due to the question being very much generic in what beauty was to

women, the images presented varied in different aspects of life. Chapter five presented four

interviews in which expressed in detail each candidate’s opinions in how they depicted beauty.

Therefore, chapter six will present the facts, conclusive as well as inconclusive thoughts into the

candidates’ perceptions of beauty. The chapter will provide an analysis of the other candidates in

which will be compared to those given in chapter five.

6.1 Common themes of women aged 18-30 years old

Through the 18-30 year olds interviews, a number of common themes seemed to emerge once

completed. These themes were:

Relationships

- Friendship

- Relations

- Maternal

- Family

- Spirituality

Body shape

Naturalness

- Make-up

- Hair

Confidence

Freedom

Relationships:

Through-out the interviews a number of candidates expressed the importance of relationships in

various ways. Candidate one indicated with their first choice the importance of having friends

(picture 5.1.1). Picture one presented an image of a group of friends (later on revealed those in the

picture as the candidates personal friends), outside having fun. Whilst discussing this picture, the

candidate began to disclose the reasons into why friends were so important; which was due to life

growing up. Considering the candidates personal feelings on growing up, presented an assumption

in the possibility in which could have led to the impact on why this particular candidate viewed

friendship to be something so beautiful. Consequently, it can be stated that the use of friendship to

this candidate was ‘comparable to having extended family close by on a daily basis.’ In comparison

to candidate one’s relationship with friends, candidate four revealed the importance of their own

relationship in the way of feeling protected. Identified by the use of a black and white image (picture

4.1.2 appendix) represented the beauty of relations in relevance to the candidates own personal

relationship; in which they revealed in the interview that this image represented the view that ‘love

can come in any colour.’

Candidate two, three, six and seven recognised the significance of motherhood in similar ways.

Defined as ‘the miracle of life’ (picture 3.7.2 appendix) by candidate seven, all candidates presented

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their own views on why this particular relationship not only had some importance to them but also

was beautiful. Acknowledging the love and naturalness of becoming a mother, candidate six

presented an idea that each woman has an instinctive maternal nature that’s not taught but built

within. Similarly, represented by an image of a new born babies feet surrounded by a heart, made by

their mothers hands, (picture 5.1.12) candidate two expressed the underrated recognition for

mothers around the world along with stating the beauty in ‘creating your own little world’ with a

new child. The candidate began to explain the importance in their own life, which according to them

was due to how they would eventually want to raise their children up. On the whole, candidates

two, six and seven exposed the interest in motherhood in various ways which came to an overall

insight of wanting their own children and teaching values to them that their own mother taught

them. It can be safe to assume, the values taught would somewhat differ due to religious and

lifestyle background.

Candidate one also began to relate themselves to their religious background, which was associated

with ‘those around feeling like family’ (picture 5.1.2). Represented by a large cross and family in

front of it, the candidate presented morals of what they followed throughout their life. By

comparing both photos (5.1.1 and 5.1.2) what began to come to light was the overall connection

and awareness of having family in all different points of life. The candidate insinuated the need of

having friends so that they weren’t lonely; in which when considering both pictures it could suggest

that there was a need of feeling particularly wanted. Likewise, candidate six began to relate

themselves by ‘personality qualities’ for beauty and not by the physical characteristics. Hence,

candidate six suggested the prominence and beauty in spirituality. Identified as a young woman

praying in the midst of a black background (picture 3.6.1 appendix), candidate six expressed their

own aspiration in becoming like this. Emphasising on the beauty of their spirituality, candidate six

pointed out the sense of feeling free when they are ‘in touch with God.’ With regards to candidate

six, candidate seven presented a similar acknowledgement stating the beauty in ‘seeing a woman of

faith truly pouring their heart out’ (picture 3.7.6 appendix).

Body shape:

Body shape was the second common theme that presented itself from the interviews. Expressed by

an image split into two; a petit woman on one side and a larger woman on the other, candidate two

presented their views, stating that ‘beauty is not only skin deep’ (picture 5.1.9). Revealing their own

experience on being viewed as overweight within society, the candidate began to express the choice

of ignoring the opinion of society, but standing up for the belief of feeling beautiful within their own

body. In the same way candidate five presented two images, one of a toned woman and the other of

a curvy, ‘untoned’ woman, (picture 3.5.3/3.5.4 appendix) the candidate identified the need in

women being happy in the body they are in. The views presented by both candidates, opposed the

images that according to candidate two, society presents in the mass media. Therefore, the evidence

suggests there is indeed a need for change in how women have been presented in the mass media in

regards to their weight. In addition, candidate six and seven also expressed their views in body

shape in the way of curvaceous women (picture 3.6.5 and picture 3.7.7 appendix). When asked,

both candidates’ opinions was very much identical as both also stated the need of being yourself.

Whilst candidate seven based their view on who she was surrounded with, candidate six presented

their opinion due to how they looked.

Naturalness:

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Picture 5.1.3, (candidate one) began to address feelings associated with natural beauty. Presenting

two different pictures of natural beauty, one being a young black female and the other an older

black female in her 20’s, the candidate presented emotions that somewhat seemed to vary. From

disclosing the views (based on home life and growing up) the candidate emotions altered between a

sense of sadness and shame to emotions of joy and hope. Explaining the reasons for these images,

the candidate clarified the change in emotions. Stated in the interview the candidate explained the

“uplifted feeling of seeing natural beauty as it produced so much confidence.’ In addition to

candidate ones opinion on natural beauty, all other candidates between the ages of 18 and 30, also

recognised naturalness as something beautiful. Candidate two suggested the impact that the mass

media has had on women throughout the ages stating that ‘the media that perceives people like Kim

Kardashian as beautiful doesn’t really know the real meaning of beautiful.’ (Picture 5.1.10) Although

debatable, this statement could possibly be true due to the increase of the entire beauty industry.

The idea of naturalness does not only acknowledge the use of make-up but of a woman’s entire

body. Thus it is acknowledged of the major increase in many cosmetic surgery procedures. Along

with candidate two identifying the mass media in playing a vital role in ‘increasing paranoia in young

women minds’, candidates four, five and seven recognised the importance of natural beauty by the

use of make-up. When asked, each candidate viewed make-up being a product that complemented a

woman. Each candidate stated in their own words the naturalness and simplicity that a particular

woman has when the use of make-up doesn’t own them. Stated by candidate four, a woman with a

natural manor to them ‘knows herself’ and gives off an attitude, a sense of confidence in who she is.

On the other hand, candidate three, four and six recognised naturalness as the beauty in hair

(picture 3.6.6 appendix). Being yourself, as stated by candidate six, admitted the confidence that

has increased in the afro Caribbean industry. The candidate began to recognise the joy that so many

women of the black culture has received in presenting their afro hair to the world. Thus it has been

suggested that there indeed has been an increase in black women transitioning from chemical

treatments (to straighten their hair) to them using protective styles and afro hairstyles. Considering

the change in some women of the black culture, it can be concluded that the transformation would

only depend on whether a particular woman would want to conform to the culture around them or

whether they would want to stand out and be ‘different.’

Confidence:

Confidence was the fourth theme that presented itself indirectly. Whilst interviewing, (excluding

candidate one and three) each candidate presented images, in which included having a sense of

confidence. To illustrate candidate two viewed the feeling of confidence within a woman feeling

beautiful no matter what age you are (picture 5.1.8). Further-more candidate five viewed

confidence in feeling happy in however you may look (picture 3.5.3/3.5.4 appendix).

Freedom:

Candidate ones interview concluded with two pictures which linked in growing up and achieving

their own goals. While both pictures detailed different perspectives in growing up, when discussing

each picture, related points arose. This included growing up (being seen as a role model with family

and friends) and travelling. Whilst this was also a very vague description, what was able to be

identified in both pictures (picture 5.1.5/6) was the love the candidate wanted for company whether

it be in education or other ways of growing up. Likewise identified as a picture of four women

graduating university, (picture 3.7.4 appendix) candidate seven presented the same views in

achievements, as they expressed the ‘feeling of ambition when graduating.’ However candidate four

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identified the feeling of freedom in feeling content within their own life. Demonstrated as a young

woman with her arms up to the sky, candidate four stated the beauty of feeling ‘liberated, content

and at peace with themselves’ (picture 3.4.6 appendix).

6.2 Common themes of women ages 45-60 years old

The common themes of women between the ages of 45 and 60 somewhat differed from those

between the ages of 18 and 30. These themes were:

Family

Naturalness

Embracing age

Scenery

Inner ideals

- Strong character

- Confidence

Family:

Family was the first theme that presented itself throughout the interviews of the 45-60 year olds.

Candidate eight presented an image in which showed a middle aged woman hugging an elderly

woman (picture 5.2.4). The candidate began to explain why this picture was so important to them in

which was due to their own personal relationship with their own mother. Likewise candidate nine

presented two images which came hand in hand with the beauty of family. Picture 4.2.3/4.2.4

(appendix) expressed the joy of a family (grandparents, parents and children) as well as a home in

which they would live in. The candidate expressed how this particular picture fitted into their own

personal life in which they stated ‘although every family isn’t perfect, it’s beautiful when they can

come together and show love and unity.’ Additionally, candidate twelve presented the importance

of family indirectly. When presenting each picture, candidate twelve began to reveal the use of

family images used as their own beauty ideals.

Naturalness:

The second theme that presented itself was the need of naturalness in women. Candidate eight

presented their views in regards to a woman and her natural self, stating women shouldn’t ‘hide

behind make-up.’ Equally, candidate ten expressed the need of beauty being found in women

wearing a small amount of make-up. In both interviews, candidate eight and ten expressed views

that somewhat coincided with each other. It is debatable that the views presented by both

candidates was based solely on their own intake of make-up which seemed to be little when growing

up. This is supported by candidate eights opinion in which two of their chosen beauty images was

compared. Identified as a woman with a clear face of make-up smiling (picture 5.2.2) and another of

a woman with long hair with a face ‘full of make-up’ (picture 5.2.1), candidate eight began to

identify the difference in what (according to them) was beautiful. In presenting picture 5.2.2

candidate eight began by stating the fact that they ‘believed women was beautiful full stop and that

they didn’t need make-up to make them look more beautiful.’ The candidate continued to state the

difference in picture 5.2.2 from picture 5.2.1 in which they viewed picture 5.2.1 as producing a

woman who according to them ‘didn’t look real’ which was due to the excessive amount of make-

up. In the same way candidate thirteen divulged in the interview in which they realised that make-up

was (according to them) ‘taking over teenager lives.’ During the interview the candidate revealed a

time in which as teacher they had to go with a student to buy new make-up due to her forgetting

her make-up bag at home. A result of forgetting it, candidate thirteen began to disclose the reaction

of this particular student, who at that time did not participate in any activities or go outside due to

her self-conscious manor.

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Embracing age:

Candidate twelve was one of three candidates in the 45-60 year old interviews that depicted beauty

in the embracing of age. As a fifty nine year old, candidate twelve pinpointed the views that many

women growing up have begun to adapted in their life in the basis of ‘the older you get the less

attractive you become.’ Presented as an older woman with grey hair (picture 5.2.12) candidate

twelve began to express views in growing up stating the fact of ‘feeling wonderful’ at the age she is

in, as well as viewing ‘age as nothing to fear but something to embrace.’ As a candidate who can

identify with this image (due to their age group) the candidate proceeded as they acknowledge

women younger than them stating that ‘you can grow old gracefully, with a sense of maturity, being

the example to those younger.’

Furthermore, candidate eleven also revealed the beauty in embracing age by providing an image of

an older woman on the red carpet, stating the ‘elegancy that she has embraced’ (picture 4.4.1

appendix). Agreeing with ageing, candidate ten, expressed their personal opinion of beauty in

regards to Helen Mirren (picture 4.3.4 appendix). Comparing this actress to Madonna and Angelina

Jolie, candidate ten expressed the choice due to Helen Mirren representing realness in not only her

outward appearance but ‘through family and the feeling of belonging.’ Continuing candidate ten

expressed the view of Angelina Jolie ‘seeming distant, from a completely different world.’ It could be

possible to acknowledge from the overall awareness of being natural, candidate ten also presented

the need for ‘iconic’ women who would be seen as natural and not ‘unreal.’ Candidate ten also

expressed the lack of representation in women of an older age group. Due to this reason the

candidate presented someone ‘natural’ of a younger age group.

Scenery:

Scenery was another theme that presented itself within a number of images for two particular

candidates. Candidates ten and thirteen both presented images in which identified a variety of

settings. Candidate ten presented a number of sceneries which they expressed the point of beauty

within each. The candidate stated that although it looks like a beautiful place the point of beauty

was behind the photo. The candidate began to explain the choice of settings which was mainly due

to those that were there also. In the first few pictures (picture 4.3.1/4.3.3 appendix) candidate ten

began to explain the time in which included the football team they are a part of. Diversified in ages,

candidate ten relived the moment stating the ‘great times outdoors with a team full of a really good

group of women friends.’ Candidate ten moved on by presenting a similar scenery (picture 4.3.2

appendix) in which was associated by the need of visiting family.

On the other hand, candidate thirteen begun the interview in stating that if they used the word

beautiful then it was based on a judgement felt in whether something or someone was beautiful

rather than a statement. Subsequently, the candidate begun to express the beauty felt when they

would look at landscapes. Presenting a number of different pictures, candidate thirteen disclosed

the view of the lack of people in these landscapes, which was mainly due to them ideally ‘spoiling

the picture.’ Then again although the candidate viewed beauty as different landscapes

photographed, although denied, the candidate could also value family as something beautiful. With

each picture that the candidate identified as beautiful was a result of a time surrounded by family.

An example included the candidate detailing their 60th birthday and in their niece presented to them

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a bonsai tree. From this the candidate stated ‘the beauty was not in being given the bonsai tree but

in the occasion that it was given to them’.

Inner ideals:

Concluding the common themes throughout the 45-60 year old interviews, inner ideals was very

noticeable within each candidates’ views in their own ideal beauty images. Candidate eight viewed

the importance and beauty of inner beauty by expressing the values and characteristics of a friend.

Presented as a picture of their friend (picture 5.2.7) candidate ten stated their friend ‘encapsulating

inner beauty rather than the superficial outer beauty.’ Providing stories of love, support and loyalty

candidate ten began to list the qualities of what someone beautiful would include within them.

Somewhat similar candidate eleven presented an image of Michelle Obama in which begun to state

the qualities that seemed to be acknowledged around the world. Viewing Michelle Obama as an

‘influential woman’, candidate eleven stated the idea of Michelle Obama being a well presented and

approachable woman in which many other influential women ‘didn’t seem to have’.

Candidate twelve further identified added characteristics that they believed beauty consisted within.

Presented as picture 5.2.12 of an older woman, candidate twelve revealed the importance in having

a strong character. Stating the prominence in making sure that a ‘woman wasn’t easily led but knew

where they were going,’ the candidate presented their belief in assuming that this character could

potentially be passed on.

In addition to a strong character, candidate twelve presented the need in having confidence within

yourself. In relation to the beauty within confidence, candidate eight proceeded into acknowledge

the inner beauty within Anita Roddick. Voicing the opinion in that ‘being beautiful isn’t ‘necessarily

what you look like but perhaps what you do, think and say’, candidate eight begun to describe the

life of Anita Roddick as the owner of Body Shop. Presenting the facts as to how the world saw the

founder as well as what she particular stood for as the founder of body shop, the candidate

concluded in describing the woman as strong, confident as well as having ‘beautiful inner ideals’.

6.3 Summary

To summarise, it can be shown that through the entire interview process, there were a number of

beauty ideals that either crossed through both age groups or were more prominent in one than the

other. Overall, it can be recognised that there was indeed definite common themes that emerged in

both age groups which was relationships and naturalness.

Relationship:

It can very well be acknowledged that women across all ages considered relationships as something

beautiful. In gathering the data from the analysis it is apparent that relationships is very much

important through a variety of meanings. For instance, i.e. candidate one finding a relationship in

friends, candidate six finding a relationship in spirituality and candidate eight finding a relationship in

family.

Naturalness:

Consistent through both age groups, it can be seen that there has been a shift in the outlook of

women in the UK and their idea of natural beauty. When comparing the views of these women and

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the mass media in how they represent women, there seems to be an obvious difference in opinions

related in how women in the UK want to be represented as in within the media.

To sum up, in considering the views of the interviewees in relation to their beauty opinion, although

debatable there seems to be a consistency in the beauty principles; 18-30 year olds constructing

beauty on the outward appearance where 45-60 year olds are finding beauty from within.

Chapter 7:

Conclusion

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In conclusion, this thesis provided a marketing method that could initially help companies within the

beauty industry market to their target market more effectively. In interviewing women from two

different age groups what was apparent (as previously stated) the definite difference in how they

depict beauty compared to the mass media and many companies within the beauty industry.

To end each interview a question was presented to each interviewee for answers in regards to the

beauty industry and themselves. This question was how they thought the beauty industry could and

should advertise to them.

With a number of responses, each view simply coincided with each other which consisted through

both age groups. Anger, resentment and hurt presented itself whilst candidates listed off the

requirements of what advertisements portray beauty as. Ranging from young, thin, unreal, plastic,

fake women to women with a beautiful white European look, to the need of being tall, size 4/6 with

a 6 pack each candidate expressed the need for change. Candidate eight solely stated beauty

consisting of ‘what you are, rather than what you look like.’ If the idea of beauty is based on this

statement, then this can be definite evidence that companies within the beauty industry has a rather

different idea of beauty. Supported by candidates two, four, six and ten in relevance to the

difference in opinion in beauty requirements, each candidate proceeded to state their own ideas of

what their ‘beauty scale’ consisted of.

Beauty Scale

Four candidates (two, four, six and ten) revealed their beauty scale in which very much disregarded

the ideals of what the mass media has seem to present. Candidate two was one of the first

interviewees who presented characteristics that were relevant to beauty within. Stating that beauty

in their eyes consisted of those who had confidence and free will within viewing that beauty was

indeed ‘based on characteristics within and not on the outward appearance. Candidate four

continued by presenting what they had seen the mass media portray beauty. Detailing the

perception of beauty in the eyes of the media in beauty consisting of curvaceous women with large

body assets and a great deal of makeup, the candidate began to detail their own beauty

requirements in which they depicted beauty as a simplistic and sophisticated woman indicating

beauty was ‘the required through inner beauty and not vice versa.’ Consistent with the opposed

definition of beauty, candidate six and ten viewed the beauty scales to include both inner and

outward characteristics. Candidate six begun by stating the characteristics included inner beauty

such as confidence and individuality. Candidate ten concluded by stating the need of natural, open

women.

7.1 Recommendations

To sum up, each candidate interviewed presented the ways into how they would like to be

advertised to when purchasing from companies within the beauty industry. After examining each

candidates’ answers, there were a number of common views relevant to promotions such as:

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Show ‘real people’

Range of women sizes

Encourage loving your body

Sell an idea that’s achievable

Promote individuality and not just seasonal clothing

Show ‘real people’

A number of candidates presented the view that a large majority of stores do not show ‘real people’

when advertising. In one the interviews, the candidate began to detail a number of stores that

advertise sizes of women that only a few represent. Beginning to number the stores that use

manikins to show off their clothing when the manikin sizes never represent the sizes of ‘real people.’

The candidate went on to explain times in which a store had never represented the various

ethnicities within the UK stating that ‘many UK stores portray beauty as one skin colour and build.’

Range of women sizes

Candidate two was one of the candidates who expressed their general sadness in the lack of range

within women sizes. Revealing the feeling that it seemed as many companies wanted women to get

thinner and thinner, the candidate suggested that instead of leading women to anorexia they should

instead embrace the different sizes and present a range of clothing sizes, manikin sizes as well as

advertising promotions to accompany all. Candidate two went on to explain the reason why, by

stating that their own personal clothing sizes never seemed to match up to the sizes presented in a

large majority of stores. Adding the ‘irritation’ gained when they had to shop around a number of

stores to get one piece of clothing.

Encourage loving your body

Candidate two revealed that for a company to increase their sales, they should ideally try and

encourage their consumers to love their own body and actually provide clothing for them to do so.

Moreover, candidate four revealed times in which they would have to go to leave their town centre

frustrated due to walking around trying to find a pair of jeans that no store seemed to have. As a

result of that, the candidate hinted on feeling self-conscious about their weight, having the

assumption of it being due to the weight in why they couldn’t in fact find anything to wear.

Sell an idea that’s achievable

Additionally, in relevance to love your own body, candidate four expressed their feeling in which the

beauty industry should sell ideas that are achievable. Similar to the beauty myth, candidate four

stated the fact that the beauty industry has put a strain on who are considered beautiful. Seeing

people such as Kim Kardashian and Beyoncé on large billboards had giving off a thought that beauty

is according to the candidate, ‘looking like these women.’ Stating that women are beautiful in all

different ways, the candidate suggested that the beauty industry should of course encourage

women to look good but do it by ways in which is achievable. Continuing on, the candidate

expressed the fact that not every woman has money like Kim Kardashian who can splash out on

plastic surgery when they want or a personal trainer. Some women are normal, with normal paying

jobs that still want to look good.

Promote individuality and not just seasonal clothing

Equally important, candidate six discussed the need for selling both individuality and not only

seasonal (colour coded) clothing. Arguing the point that although many women may love fashion,

many also enjoy choosing their own style. The candidate expressed the majority of stores that base

their clothing on what is in ‘season’ for that particular time of year. Detailing their anger, the

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candidate concluded by stating that ‘women such as me do not want to conform to what is shown in

the media by celebrities. I want to be different, I want to feel different. I want my individuality back.’

Hence, from the opinions given, there is indeed evidence that shows that companies need to realise

the notion that ‘beauty is in the eyes of the beholder.’ In the opinions given, specific themes

presented itself through age groups, place of residence as well as ethnic backgrounds. Therefore if

companies begun to understand the idea of advertising to women in general in the ways that

women depict beauty than advertising in the ways that they perceive what beauty is, these

particular brands could ideally develop a uniqueness from all other brands within the beauty

industry.

In brief, as previously suggested, the Zaltman technique presents a transferable approach to a range

of different studies. Subsequently, in using this technique within the beauty industry for a particular

brand could help in:

Strategy and brand evaluation

Advertising promotions

Internal marketing

Thus, if a brand within the beauty industry needed to understand these points, findings presented in

chapter five, would give clear guidance. Therefore, with the opinions given in chapter five (on how

women perceived beauty), a brand could design more effective strategies as well as promotional

campaigns based around these perceptions.

To sum up, this study found that the perception of beauty is rather complex in that beauty isn’t a

singular stereotypical definition but rather multifaceted. With opinions of beauty ranging across

several categories, it is suggested that marketers would need to understand this in order to better

manage their brand, products and/or services. Therefore the value of this study is that it presents an

approach which could be used within various areas such as the beauty industry or in cultural studies.

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Beauty is…In the eyes of 18-30 year old candidates

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Beauty is…In the eyes of 18-30 year old candidates

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Chapter 8:

References

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Adams, M. (2015) Winnie Harlow: Woman with vitiligo beats bullies to become top fashion model.

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Adorno, T. W. (1991) The Schema of Mass Culture. London: Routledge.

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Blythe, J. (2013). Consumer Behaviour. 2nd edn. London: SAGE Publications Ltd.

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Crawford, M. & Unger, R.(2004). Images of Women and Men. In: Women and Gender. New York:

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De Chernatony, L., McDonald, M. & Wallace, E. (2011). Creating Powerful Brands. 4th edn. Oxford:

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Gauntlett, D. (2002) Media, Gender and Identity. 1st edn. New York: Routledge.

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Marris, P. & Thornham, S. (1996) Media Studies: a reader. Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press.

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Chapter 9:

Appendices

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9.1 Self-Structured Interview questions

About yourself:

Age

Occupation

Where you live

What do you like to do?

How do feel about yourself?

Beauty Images:

Explanation of each chosen image

Images Comments: What is it?

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

Why is this important to you?

How does each picture fit into your lifestyle?

How do you see yourself with this particular image?

Celebrity Choice:

Choose a female celebrity that best portrays your opinion of beauty

Why did you choose her?

- What makes her stand out from the rest

- Do you ever compare yourself to how she is?

- How does that make you feel?

About yourself and advertisements

How do you feel about yourself now? (After your beauty characteristics opinions)

How do you feel about advertisements that portray beauty as a specific image?

Women’s fashion and advertisements

Are you ever stirred by how a particular company (that you purchase from) portrays beauty in its

advertisements?

Have there been any stores (for women) that you do not purchase from as their beauty perception

are different from yours?

Yes:

- Who

- What was different?

Comments

Comments on how you think the women’s fashion industry should advertise to you

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9.2 Questioning Strategies, some illustrative examples

Critical incident Questions focus on a specific event or incident to gain rich insights into an actual example

Means end chain Questions move from understanding actual behaviour through to terminal values (why fundamentally do you behave that way)

Prisoners dilemma Introduces other evidence or opinion which may contradict what the respondent is saying

Devil’s advocate Interviewer is well rehearsed on opposing point of view and takes on the role

Chief executive diary Seeks to check out interview answers by observation of actual behaviour

Process Seeks to gain depth by asking the respondent to talk through the process stage by stage

Story telling Similar to process where respondent is asked to talk though an example real or simulated

Silence Use of prolonged and deliberate silences during an interview to teach out more comment

Perspective Asks the respondent to look at the situation from another angle or point of view

Projective Asks the respondent to engage in creative through or explanation of trends

Group (focus) Introduces group opinion and dynamics into discussion

Empathy Interviewer plays on building relation with respondent and sympathising with situation or events

Rank/rate scales Useful for positioning opinion when answers not clear cut

Metaphorical analysis Based on theory that suggests ‘deep emotions’ are revealed in metaphorical expressions

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9.3 Candidates images: Group 18-30 year olds

3.1 Candidate 1:

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3.2 Candidate 2:

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3.3 Candidate 3:

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3.4 Candidate 4:

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3.5 Candidate 5:

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3.6 Candidate 6:

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3.7 Candidate 7:

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9.4 Candidate images: Group 45-60 year olds

4.1 Candidate 8:

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4.2 Candidate 9:

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4.3 Candidate 10:

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4.4 Candidate 11:

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4.5 Candidate 12:

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4.6 Candidate 13:

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9.5 Candidates’ beauty collage