9

There is nothing trivial about food. The study of culi-

nary culture and its history provides an insight

into broad social, political and economic changes in

society. This collection of essays reflects many of the

important transitions through which European soci-

eties have passed, and in this sense, it is a history

book. It is also a celebration of an enormously rich

part of our cultural heritage of everyday life and

everyday culture.

The history of a society’s food is useful in highlight-

ing the interdependence, delicate balance and,

at times, tension over efforts to safeguard cultural

identity whilst allowing and promoting cultural diver-

sity. Identity is shaped by differences and its relation-

ship with otherness. So-called local cuisine and prod-

ucts become phenomena only when exposed to new

products and habits. However, when closely studied,

even local recipes are often the result of cultural

exchange. With the unprecedented scale of mass

migration during the second half of the twentieth

century, historical interactions have gained in signifi-

cance. Today, global exchanges have become the

norm, and they are boldly reflected in our food

culture.

This volume is a kaleidoscope of essays describing

the food of forty European nations. Each country has

approached its culinary culture in its own way, result-

ing in contributions which range from the folkloric

to the theoretical. Taken as a whole, they reflect the

remarkable diversity of the European culinary

experience.

I wholeheartedly invite you to join me on the “Tour

d’Europe” presented in this collection, celebrating

the fiftieth anniversary of the European Cultural

Convention.

Terry Davis

Secretary General of the Council of Europe

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Preface

Food and Culture Part 1 18/08/05 11:04 Page 9

Over the last fifty years the United Kingdom has

rediscovered its passion for food: a renewed focus on

fresh, locally grown ingredients matched with a fas-

cination for different styles of cooking, celebrity

chefs and our heritage of regional specialities.

The past flavours our present. The great kitchen

at Hampton Court comes to life when lavish dishes

of medieval origin are prepared in themed

demonstrations. Meanwhile, hog roasts on spits are

still popular at country fairs and festivals.

Seventeenth-century coffee houses were frequented

by gentlemen of leisure; in today’s versions all ages

and genders are welcome, and the language of latte

and espresso is universal.

Our food and drink history is based on the fertility, or

otherwise, of the land and the passage of invaders.

Un

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Heather Hay Ffrench and VisitBritain

U n i t e d K i n g d o m

A flavourful adventure

Whisky barrels

©Vi

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Bri

tain

Food and Culture Part 2 18/08/05 14:39 Page 463