course “tourism prac/ces and society” module ii “global
TRANSCRIPT
MDPlanningandManagementofTourismSystems(PMTS)UniversityofBergamo
Course“Tourismprac/cesandsociety”
ModuleII
“Globaltourismandlocaldevelopment”
DomenicoPerro=a/GabriellaAlber/
Lecture3–DomenicoPerro=a(08/04/2019)
Foodheritage,tourism,andagriculture
Outlineofthesession
• HeritageandFood;processesofheritagiza/on:“authen/city”,iden/tyand“tradi/on”infoodproduc/onandconsump/on
• Foodheritageandtourism:casestudies• Foodheritageandagriculture
• “tradi/onal”and“authen/c”foodas“qualityfood”…• Thetrasforma/onsinagri-foodsupplychainsinSouthern
Europeoverthelast30yearsandtheroleofsupermarketchains• “Foodfromnowhere”and“foodfromsomewhere”.• Acasestudy:theproduc/onof“pomodoripela/”inSouthern
Italy
1)Heritageandfood/Foodandfoodwaysasheritage
• “authen/city”,iden/tyand“tradi/on”infoodproduc/onandconsump/on;
• “Tradi/onal”foodthatneedstobe/mustbepreservedfromthetransienceof/me(see“Slowfood”);
• Standardiza/on(procedures);• Socialinnova/on?• The(conflictsoverthe)bordersoftheterroir;• Heritageandsocialanxiety…(foodcrises...);• Dis/nc/onthroughconsump/on;• Legalinstruments(UNESCOlist;denomina/onsof
origin).
R.BruloFe,M.DiGiovine(eds.,2014)“EdibleidenMMes:foodasculturalheritage”
• Howfood–conceptualizedasamarkerofheritage–isusedtomarkinsidersandoutsiderswithinethnicgroups;
• Whythesamefood’smeaningschangewithinapar/cularsocietybasedonclass,genderortaste;
• Howtradi/onsare“invented”fortheeconomicandsocialrevitaliza/onofcommuni/es.
• Acknowledgethecommercialadvantagesthatheritagedesigna/onsonfoodareperceivedtoprovide;
• Interrogatetheconnec/onsbetweenheritageandfoodindustries,aswellasthe“culture”industriesandespeciallythetravelindustry;
• Seehowheritageandfood“industries”actasmediators,bringingpeopletogetherthrougheconomicexchange.
R.BruloFe,M.DiGiovine(eds.,2014)“EdibleidenMMes:foodasculturalheritage”
…thecul/va/on,prepara/on,andconsump/onoffoodisusedtocreateiden/tyclaimsof“culturalheritage”onlocal,regional,na/onalandinterna/onalscales.…[food]tradi/onsare“invented”fortheeconomicandsocialrevitaliza/onofcommuni/es(p.11)
terroir…isaveryfood-specificno/onofheritage—onethatmanydifferentheritagediscoursesa=empt,butwhichcannoteasilybeproven—foritpositsthatthebiologicalcomponentsofanenvironmentbestowsuniquenessandauthen/cityontoaplace’sproduct,prohibi/ngitfrombeingreplicatedelsewhereintheworld.Thatis,apar/cularheritagefoodisbelievedtobeauthen/c—andcanbeclaimedasonegroup’sheritageoveranother—becauseofthespecificmineralsinthesoil,weathercondi/ons,andtopography,aswellasthetradi/onalwayshumanshavemanipulatedthoseenvironmentalcondi/ons.(p.7)Ofcourse,terroirdesigna/onshaveemergedpreciselybecauseofeconomicconcerns–butthisisnottheallstory(p.8)
therenowisanincreasinginterestbyItalianregionsandlocali/es…todifferen/atethemselvesbystar/ngfood-centeredsagre(popularfes/vals),eco-museums,andWorldHeritagenomina/ons,inana=empttoconstructterroirdesigna/ons—ifnotlegally,thenatleastinthecollec/vepsyche(p.10)The“Inven/onoftradi/on”(Hobsbawm&Ranger)
R.BruloFe,M.DiGiovine(eds.,2014)“EdibleidenMMes:foodasculturalheritage”
• Theissueofscale:na/onalfood/ethnicfood(Na/onsas“imaginedcommuni/es”)
• Heritagiza/onbyinformalnetworksand/orgroupsofstakeholders(regionalandna/onalgovernments,farmsandcompanies,etc.)
• Instruments:– the2010UNESCOWorldHeritagelist(MediterraneanDiet;French
GastronomicMeal;MexicanCuisine;Croa/anGingerbred,washokuJapanesecuisine,Turkishcoffee…inthe“Representa/velistoftheintangibleculturalheritageofhumanity”)(vaguenessandnostalgia...)
– Thedesigna/onsof“terroir”:“Controlleddesigna/onoforigin”;“Controlledandguaranteeddesigna/onoforigin”;“Appella/ond’originecontrollée”,etc.
• Commodifica/onandstandardiza/onvs.transforma/onandrevitaliza/on• Tradi/onvs.innova/on(which“new”skillsarenecessarytorepresent
foodas“heritage”?)
TherepresentaMvelistoftheIntangibleCulturalHeritageofHumanity
ThegastronomicmealoftheFrench:ThegastronomicmealoftheFrenchisacustomarysocialprac/ceforcelebra/ngimportantmomentsinthelivesofindividualsandgroups,suchasbirths,weddings,birthdays,anniversaries,achievementsandreunions.Itisafes/vemealbringingpeopletogetherforanoccasiontoenjoytheartofgoodea/nganddrinking.Thegastronomicmealemphasizestogetherness,thepleasureoftaste,andthebalancebetweenhumanbeingsandtheproductsofnature.Importantelementsincludethecarefulselec/onofdishesfromaconstantlygrowingrepertoireofrecipes;ac/onsduringconsump/on,suchassmellingandtas/ngitemsatthetable.Theapéri-f(drinksbeforethemeal)andendingwithliqueurs,containinginbetweenatleastanddessert.Individualscalledgastronomeswhopossessdeepknowledgeofthetradi/onandpreserveitsmemorywatchoverthelivingprac/ceoftherites,thuscontribu/ngtotheiroraland/orwri=entransmission,inpar/culartoyoungergenera/ons.Thegastronomicmealdrawscirclesoffamilyandfriendsclosertogetherand,moregenerally,strengthenssocial/es.(UNESCO,2010,citedinBrulo=e,DiGiovine,EdibleIden//es,2014,Routledge)
TherepresentaMvelistoftheIntangibleCulturalHeritageofHumanity
GingerbreadCra4fromNorthernCroa-a:“Thetradi/onofgingerbreadmakingappearedincertainEuropeanmonasteriesduringtheMiddleAgesandcametoCroa/awhereitbecameacrap.Gingerbreadcrapspeople,whoalsomadehoneyandcandles,workedintheareaofNorthernCroa/a…thecraphasbeenpassedonfromonegenera/ontoanotherforcenturies,ini/allytomen,butnowtobothmenandwomen.GingerbreadhasbecomeoneofthemostrecognizablesymbolsofCroa/aniden/ty.Today,gingerbreadmakersareessen/alpar/cipantsinlocalfes/vals,eventsandgatherings,providingthelocalpeoplewithasenseofiden/tyandcon/nuity”(UNESCO,2010,citedinBrulo=e,DiGiovine,EdibleIden/tes,2014,Routledge)
“AuthenMcity”
• Authen/cityasacultural“myth”concerningthecountryside(ruralvs.urbanlife)“themythonruralasidyllseestheruralascharacterisedbypeaceandquiet,cleanliness,safety,socialinclusiveness,pituresqueloca/ons,harmonywithnatureandwholesomewaysoflife(sustainable)whereasthemythicalcounterpart…theurbanasrepresentedbynoise,dirt,danger,socialisola/on,ugliness,andunhealthywaysoflife(unsustainable)”(Frisvoll,2013,p.288)
• Authen/cityasan“asset”forruraltourism(S.Frisvoll2013)• Frisvoll(2013):whereisauthen/cityinruralcontexts?
1)Cer/fica/ons;2)buildings;3)food;4)prac/ces.• G.deSt.Maurice(inBrulo=e,DiGiovine2014):Authen/cityin:1)Origin(place);2)Content(seeds);3)Process(farmingtechniques);4)Historicalcon/nuity(ancestors).(researchonKyoto,Japan)
• R.Brulo=e(inBrulo=e,DiGiovine2014):WeshouldNOTdebateonthe“trueorfake”authen/cityoffood.
StandardizaMonC.Grasseni,“Re-inven/ngfood:Alpinecheeseintheageofglobalheritage”(AnthropologyofFood,2011)“withincircuitsofheritagiza/on,foodisbeingrediscoveredandreinvented,bothasameansoflocaldevelopmentandasabearerofcollec/veterritorialiden//es.Nevertheless,thisprocessrequiresacertainamountofstandardiza/onofthefooditselfandofitspublicizedimages.Forinstance,marke/ngfoodaslocalheritagemaybe/edtomarke/ngaplaceasastereotypicaliconoftherurallandscapewithtouris/cappeal”- Theformaliza/onandregimenta/onofproduc/onprotocols,especiallyinviewofobtaining
EUacknowledgedgeographicaldenomina/on- “Alpinecheeseisthusincreasinglyproducedintypicalenvironmentsbutinstandardways”.- “Diversitybecomesacommodityandwhatistypicalissubjectedtostandards”.- Theroleoflocaltacitknowledgeisnottakenintoaccount.
- Boundarymakingisproblema/c(seethecaseof“Bi=o”cheese)
- “atlasoftypicalproducts,guidestoecotourismanddidac/cfarms,booksofrecipes,cataloguesoffood-ar/sans,mapsoftypicalproducts,wine-andcheese-roadsandevencheeseiden/ty-cards.Ontheonehandthiscommunica/onexposureiscontribu/ngtorecognizingfoodasafundamentalpartoflocalheritage;ontheotherhanditturnsintoanobjectofspectacleforurbanaudiences”.
2)Foodheritageandtourism
• Foodheritageandtherevitaliza/onoflocalcommuni/es/economies;
• “Ediblesouvenirs”;• Consump/onofethniccuisine(notonlyastouriststravellinginothercountries,butalsoasrestaurantclientsinyourownci/es);
• Culinarytourism;• Heritagecuisine;• Touris/ccuisine.
FoodtourismandreligioustourismThestudybyM.DiGiovineinPietrelcina(provinceofBenevento,SouthernItaly)
InPietrelcina:3,000inhabitantsand600,000(religious)touristsyearly• Sincethe1970s,crisisoftradi/onalfarmingintheregion–and
flightfromruralareas• Sincethelate1990s,withtheprocessofbea/fica/onofPadrePio
andthegrowthintourisminPietrelcina,aprocessoffoodheritagiza/onoccurs(the“tradi/onal”ar/chokes;thetradi/onal“cicatelli”–supposedhand-madepasta);
• Foodheritageassouvenirandiden/tymarker;• Home-cookedfood(“cucinacasereccia”)becomesheritagecuisine;• Foodheritageasrevitaliza/onoflocaleconomy(tourism,
agriculture,etc.)andlocaliden/ty?
“Theprepara/onofar/chokesinPietrelcinaisoneofthetown’smostancienttradi/ons,andthear/chokeispresentineveryfarmer’sgarden–astes/fiedbytheaffirma/onthat‘stuffedar/chokes’wasoneofSt.PadrePio’sfavouritedishes.Itisadishofnotablenutri/onalandfunc/onalvalue,andcangeneratealevelofrevenuethatiscompe//vewithtobacco.Itisforthisreasonthatitcanbefullyintegrateintodiscoursesofproduc/vereconversion”(citedinMichaelDiGiovine,“TheEverydayasExtraordinary:Revitaliza/on,Religion,andtheEleva/onofCucinaCaserecciatoHeritageCuisineinPietrelcina,Italy”)
HeritagefoodtourismandEcomuseums(C.Grasseni)
TwoEcomuseumsontheAlps,“foundedwithlocalandregionalins/tu/onalsupport…strategicconvergencewithlocalcommercialstrategiesaimingatcas/nglocalfoodstuffsas‘typical’inordertocapitalizeontheirpatrimonializaMonasculturallocalheritage”• ThetwoEcomuseumsofthe“VallidelBi=o”,aimingatdefendingtradi/onalcheeserecipesinthefaceofstandardiza/on(supportedbylocalSlowFood)
• TheEcomuseumValTaleggio...(asastrategytoiden/fyadis/nc/velocalitywithaspecificlocalproduct)Taleggiocheesevs.Strachituntcheese.
HeritagefoodtourismandEcomuseums(C.Grasseni)
• Boundarymakingasakeyelementinthesocialconstruc/onoffoodasheritage(whichistheextensionoftheareaofproduc/on?);
• Conflictsoverboundarymakingand“true”heritage;• The“namewar”:whohastherighttocontrolthe“name”ofthe
protectedfood?• Diversityvs.Standardiza/on(whichrela/onshipbetween“quality”
andstandardiza/on?)• Industrialproduc/onvs./picity• Howtoobtainthe(protec/onofthe)geographicalindica/on?
• Foodheritageandtherevitaliza/onofthelocaleconomy.• Diversitybecomesacommodity,andtradi/onbecomesa
patrimony
3)Foodheritageandagriculture
• Can“foodheritage”(anditsuseinthetourismindustry)bealeverageforlocaldevelopment?
• Can“foodheritage”(anditsuseinthetourismindustry)bealeverageforruraldevelopmentandagriculturaldevelopment?
• Weshouldaskwhatis“rural”,howfoodisproducedanddistributed...• ...andexplorethetrasforma/onsinagri-foodsupplychainsinSouthern
Europeoverthelast30yearsandtheroleofsupermarketchains...
• “Tradi/onal”and“authen/c”foodas“qualityfood”vs.Industrialized/standardizedfood...
• The“qualityturn”ofItalianagricultureandthe“MadeinItalyconsensus”
• “Foodfromnowhere”and“foodfromsomewhere”.
Whatis“rural”?Howisfoodproduced?
Almeria,Spain
Whatis“rural”?Howisfoodproduced?
Ragusa(Sicily),la“fasciacos/eratrasformata”(the“transformedli=oralstrip”)PicturebyValeriaPiro.
Whatis“rural”?Howisfoodproduced?
Whatis“rural”?Howisfoodproduced?
Processingtomatomanualharvesters–Puglia(Italy)
Whatis“rural”?Howisfoodproduced?
Rosarno(Calabria)–The“revolt”ofmigrantcitrusharvestersinJanuary2010
Howisfooddistributed?Sharesof(freshandprocessed)foodretailinItaly
(ItalianAnMtrustAuthority–Report2013)
1996 2011
Distribuzionemoderna(GDeDO)
50% 72%
Commercioalde=agliotradizionale
41% 18%
Altricanali(commercioambulante,acquis/direxpressoaziendeagricole,ecc.)
9% 10%
Howisfooddistributed?Supermarketchains’impactonagri-foodsystems
• Fromproducer-driventoretailer-drivenagri-foodsupplychains;• Supermarketchainsasnew«foodauthori/es»,fosteringnew
waysofconsump/onandproduc/on,throughthecontroloverdistribu/on;
• The“buyerpower”• Adownwardpressuresonagriculturalproducts’prices;• Foodsuppliersarerequested/obligedtorespectproduc/on
standards:- Quan/tytobedeliveredtotheretailchain;- Standardiza/onovertheaspectandtasteoffoodproducts;- Foodsafetyprocedures;- Managementofthelogis/csofthedelivery.
“Supermarket-own-brands”or“privatelabels”
Theliberaliza/onoftheinterna/onalagri-foodmarkets
M.Fonte,I.Cucco(2015)The“qualityturn”ofItalianagricultureinthe1990s
definingwhatisalterna/veagricultureinItalyisachallenge.Actuallynobodyseemstobedefendinganindustrializedmodelofagriculturaldevelopment,homogeniza/onofproducts,standardiza/onofagriculturalprac/cesandglobaliza/onofsourcingandtastes.Everybodywouldinsteadagreewiththenewruraldevelopmentparadigm,whichadvocatesthevaloriza/onofregionalagro-ecologicaldiversityinfoodandagriculture.Asaresultofthisevolu/on,‘alterna/ve’and‘conven/onal’socialforcestoalargeextentintersectandoverlap.
[Inthe1990s]a‘MadeinItalyconsensus’developed,uni/ngawidecoali/onofinterestsintheagricultureandfoodsector.Na/onalproduc/oncametobeseennotonlyasaguaranteeofqualitybutalsoasagoodmarke/ngstrategywiththepoten/altorespondtoconsumeranxietyonfoodSlowFoodpromotestheideaofculturaldiversityandatthesame/medevelopsmarke/ngstrategiesforencouragingconsumerstobuylocalendangeredfoods.Itsstrategyisnotopposi/onaltothefoodindustryorfoodcapital…Individualbehavioralchangeinresponsetoinforma/onbroughttoconsumerswillthusbringaboutchangeinthewholefoodsystem.
InourfarmingAtlas,wecancount4,471typicalproducts…itisclearhowmuchouragricultureconcernstherootsofourcommunity,thedeeprootsofourterritories,thearchaiciden/tyofourCountry,ofitsregions,itsprovinces,itsmunicipali/es.TogrowcapersinPantelleria,saffroninAbruzzo,riceinthePoValley,vineyardsinFriuli,isnobleanddifficult.Thedefenceofthis/picalitymeansthedefenceofthehistoryofourcommuni/es,becausebehindaproductthereisalwaysthecollec/vebiographyandthewisdomofthementhatforcenturieshavebeenlivingonthatterritoryandhavebeenabletotransformit.Ofcours,allthiscan’tleaveasidethemarket(pp.27-28).Forthefirst/me,inthehistoryofMcDonalds’...Italianpeasant,andthusqualityagriculture,enteredthemaindoorofthemostimportantglobalretailerofprocessedfood…asandwichmadeupwithcer/fiedItalianbread,withItalianoliveoil,Italianmeat,AsiagocheesePDO,Bataviasalad,andadecora/onwithRomanar/chokescouldrepresentthepresupposi/onforanewandrichbusinessforthecorpora/on(pp.32-3).LucaZaia(LegaNord)ItalianMinisterofAgriculture2008-2010,sincethenPresidentoftheVenetoRegion.BookAdo:arelaterra(pernonmoriredifame),Mondadori,2010
Forus,thedefenceofgeographicalmarksmeanstodefendtheeconomyofourterritories.Forthisreason,asMinistry,weproposed–forthefirst/meintheworld–tothee-commerceglobalplayerstogivetoourPDOandPGIgeographicalmarksthesamedefencetheyguaranteetothecommercialbrands.[…]Today,giantsasebay,GoogleandAlibabaremovethousandstonnesoffakeparmesan,granapadano,mozzarillaorchian/fromtheirvirtualaisles.Wearethecountryofbiodiversity,withmorethan500varie/esofvineyards[...]Everywhereinourterritories,winerepresentaniden/ty,historicalandculturaltrait:itispartofourDNA.[...]ItisnotacaseifinApril2016,acolossusofthee-commercesuchasAlibabahaslaunchedachallengetoalltheItalianproducers:tomakeItalythecountryofreferenceforthewineonAlibabasoon.
MaurizioMarMna(DemocraMcparty)ItalianMinistryofAgriculture2014-2018)BookDallaterraall’Italia.StoriedalfuturodelpaeseMondadori,2017,pp.90and101)
“Wewanttoeattheproductsofourland,notthosearrivingfromtheothersideoftheworld.LetRenzieatwhatarrivesfromtheotherpartoftheworld.Wewanttoeatanddrinkthefruitsofourwork,thefruitsofourland,fromTrentotoPalermo.Becausewesupporttheworkofourpeople”.MaFeoSalvini,na/onalleaderoftheLegaNordParty,discourseinDuomoSquare,Milan,duringthedemonstra/onnamed“Stopall’invasione”,Milan,14october2014(showingtothedemonstratorstwoapplesfromValtellinainNorthernItaly)h=ps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v2pfZajgea
Retailstrategies
• h=ps://www.auchan.it/it-IT-it/sta/c/passioni.aspx
Retailstrategies
AuthenMcvs.industrialfood?
…atensioninglobalagri-foodsystems,between:- theindustrializa/on/retailiza/on/produc/vism/
neoliberaliza/onofagricultureandfood,- theemphasison“typical”,“tradi/onal”,“local”,quality,
“excellent”,“/ed-with-the-territory”foodproducts(thela=erdiscourseisgrowinglyusedbypoli/calactors,mul/na/onalcorpora/ons,retailchains,etc,i.e.thesameactorsthatweusuallyconsiderasac/velyengagedintheformerkindofprocesses).InItaly,witha“moralis/c”and“na/onalist”accent.…byfocusingonthecaseofthepomodoripela-(wholepeeledtomatoes)produc/oninSouthernItaly.