costa rica 13 - preview (chapter) · costa rica ashley harrell, jade bremner, brian kluepfel arenal...

Costa Rica

Ashley Harrell, Jade Bremner, Brian Kluepfel

Arenal &NorthernLowlands

p239

CaribbeanCoastp136

Central Valley& Highlands

p101

NorthwesternCosta Rica

p189

Penínsulade Nicoya

p285

SouthernCosta Rica &

Península de Osap405

CentralPacific Coast

p347

San Josép60

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to Costa Rica . . .6

Costa Rica’s Top 21 . . . . .10

Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 22

First Time Costa Rica . . . 24

What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 26

If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

Month by Month . . . . . . . 30

Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40

Travel with Children . . . . 48

Eat & Drink Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . . .51

Regions at a Glance . . . . 56

SAN JOSÉ . . . . . . . . . 60Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 89Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 91Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95

CENTRAL VALLEY & HIGHLANDS . . . . . . .101Alajuela & the Northern Valley . . . . . . . 104

Alajuela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104Parque Nacional Volcán Poás . . . . . . . . . . . . 109Atenas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110Grecia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111Sarchí . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112Zarcero . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113Bajos del Toro . . . . . . . . . . 113San Ramón . . . . . . . . . . . . 114Heredia Area . . . . . . . . . .116Heredia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116Barva . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119San Isidro de Heredia . . . 120Cartago Area . . . . . . . . . .121Cartago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121

OG

PH

OTO

/GE

TT

Y IMA

GES

©

ON THE ROAD PLAN YOUR TRIP

STIG

STOC

KH

OLM

PE

DE

RS

EN

/GE

TT

Y IMA

GES

©

COFFEE SACKS, MONTEVERDE P191

ALFR

ED

O M

AIQ

UE

Z/G

ET

TY IM

AG

ES ©

PARQUE NACIONAL VOLCÁN IRAZÚ P122

Contents

Parque Nacional Volcán Irazú . . . . . . . . . . . . 122Valle de Orosi . . . . . . . . . . 123Turrialba Area . . . . . . . . 128Turrialba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129Monumento Nacional Arqueológico Guayabo . . . 135

CARIBBEAN COAST . . . . . . . . . . . 136The Atlantic Slope . . . . 137Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo . . . . . . . . . 137Guápiles & Around . . . . . . 141Siquirres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142Puerto Limón . . . . . . . . . . 143Moín . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147

Northern Caribbean . . . 148Parismina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148Parque Nacional Tortuguero . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149Tortuguero Village . . . . . . 151Barra del Colorado . . . . . . 157Southern Caribbean . . . .161Reserva Biológica Hitoy-Cerere . . . . . . . . . . . 161Cahuita . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162Parque Nacional Cahuita . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168Puerto Viejo de Talamanca . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170Playa Cocles, Playa Chiquita & Punta Uva . . . 180Manzanillo . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo . . . . 186Sixaola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188

NORTHWESTERN COSTA RICA . . . . . . 189Monteverde & Around . . .191Monteverde & Santa Elena . . . . . . . . . . . . 191Bosque Nuboso Monteverde . . . . . . . . . . . . 210InterAmericana Norte . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212Montes de Oro . . . . . . . . . 212Volcán Tenorio Area . . . . . 214Volcán Miravalles Area . . . 219Parque Nacional Palo Verde . . . . . . . . . . . . .220Liberia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222Parque Nacional Rincón de la Vieja . . . . . . . 227Sector Santa Rosa . . . . . .230Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Bahía Junquillal . . . . . . . . 233La Cruz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234Bahía Salinas . . . . . . . . . . 236

ARENAL & NORTHERN LOWLANDS . . . . . . . 239Arenal & Around . . . . . . 242La Fortuna . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal . . . . . . . . . . 254El Castillo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255Laguna de Arenal . . . . . . .260Tilarán . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265Northern Lowlands . . . . 266Upala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266Refuge Nacional de Vida Silvestre Caño Negro . . . . . . . . . . . . 267Los Chiles . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271San Rafael de Guatuso . . . 273Muelle de San Carlos . . . 273Ciudad Quesada (San Carlos) . . . . . . . . . . . 274Boca Tapada Area . . . . . . 275Sarapiquí Valley . . . . . . 276San Miguel . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276La Virgen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 277Chilamate & Around . . . . 279Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí . . . . . . . . . . . 281Estación Biológica La Selva . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282Horquetas & Around . . . . 283

PENÍNSULA DE NICOYA . . . . . . . . . . . 285Northern Peninsula . . . 288Playas del Coco . . . . . . . . 288Playa Hermosa . . . . . . . . . 291Playa Ocotal . . . . . . . . . . . 292Bahía Potrero . . . . . . . . . . 293Playa Grande . . . . . . . . . . .298Playa Tamarindo . . . . . . . .300Playas Avellanas & Negra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307Playa Junquillal . . . . . . . . .309CART WHEEL, SARCHÍ P112

Santa Cruz . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310Central Peninsula . . . . . 310Nicoya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310Parque Nacional Barra Honda . . . . . . . . . . . 312Nosara Area . . . . . . . . . . . . 313Refugio Nacional de Fauna Silvestre Ostional . . 317Playa Sámara . . . . . . . . . . 321Playa Carrillo . . . . . . . . . . . 325

Islita Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326Playas San Miguel & Coyote . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 327Southern Peninsula . . . 328Mal País & Santa Teresa . . . . . . . . . . . 328Cabuya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334Montezuma . . . . . . . . . . . . 335Playas Pochote & Tambor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 342Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Curú . . . . . 343Paquera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .344Islands near Bahía Gigante . . . . . . . . . . 345Playa Naranjo . . . . . . . . . .346

CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST . . . . . . . . . . . 347Puntarenas to Playa Seco . . . . . . . . . . . 350Puntarenas . . . . . . . . . . . . 351Around Puntarenas . . . . . 356Parque Nacional Carara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 356

Tárcoles & Around . . . . . . 358Playa Herradura . . . . . . . . 359Jacó . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 361Playa Hermosa . . . . . . . . .368Playa Esterillos . . . . . . . . . 370Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . 371Quepos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371Quepos to Manuel Antonio . . . . . . . . 377Manuel Antonio Village . . 383Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio . . . . . . . .384Quepos to Uvita . . . . . . 387Matapalo . . . . . . . . . . . . . .388Hacienda Barú National Wildlife Refuge . . . . . . . . . 389Dominical . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 389Escaleras . . . . . . . . . . . . . .396Uvita . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 397Parque Nacional Marino Ballena . . . . . . . . . 401Ojochal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .402

IVAN

KU

ZM

IN/G

ET

TY IM

AG

ES ©

HUMMINGBIRD IN BOSQUE NUBOSO MONTEVERDE P210

ON THE ROAD

KR

YSS

IA C

AM

PO

S/G

ET

TY IM

AG

ES ©

REFUGIO NACIONAL DE VIDA SILVESTRE GANDOCA-MANZANILLO P186

Contents

SOUTHERN COSTA RICA & PENÍNSULA DE OSA . . . . . . . . . . . 405The Road to Chirripó . . .408San Gerardo de Dota . . . .409Cerro de La Muerte . . . . . 411San Isidro de El General . . . . . . . . . . . . . 412San Gerardo de Rivas . . . 414Parque Nacional Chirripó . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 416The Road to La Amistad . . . . . . . . . . 420Reserva Indígena Boruca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .420Palmar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 421Neily . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 422Paso Canoas . . . . . . . . . . . 422San Vito . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 423Parque Internacional La Amistad . . . . . . . . . . . . 424To Corcovado via Bahía Drake . . . . . . . . . . 425Sierpe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 425

Humedal Nacional Térraba-Sierpe . . . . . . . . .426Bahía Drake . . . . . . . . . . . . 427Rancho Quemado . . . . . . 432Bahía Drake to Corcovado . . . . . . . . . . . . . 433Parque Nacional Corcovado . . . . . . . . . . . . .434To Corcovado via Puerto Jiménez . . . . . . . 438Carate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .439Cabo Matapalo . . . . . . . . .440Puerto Jiménez . . . . . . . . . 441Dos Brazos . . . . . . . . . . . .446Reserva Forestal Golfo Dulce . . . . . . . . . . . . 447Golfo Dulce . . . . . . . . . . 449Golfito . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .449Parque Nacional Piedras Blancas . . . . . . . . 451Zancudo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .454Pavones . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 455Parque Nacional Isla del Coco . . . . . . . . . 458

Costa Rica Today . . . . . 462

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 465

The Tico Way of Life . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 474

Landscapes & Ecology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 479

Costa Rica Wildlife Guide . . . . . . . . 493

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 504

Transportation . . . . . . . .516

Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 525

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 534

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 543K

RYS

SIA

CA

MP

OS

/GE

TT

Y IMA

GES

©

CAPUCHIN MONKEYS, PARQUE NACIONAL MANUEL ANTONIO P384

UNDERSTAND

SURVIVAL GUIDE

SPECIAL FEATURESTurtles of the Caribbean . . . . . . . . . . . 158

Life in the Cloud Forest . . . . . . . . . 196

Undiscovered Nicoya . . .294

Surfing the Península . . 318

Reserves of the Central Pacific Coast . . .354

Wildlife Guide . . . . . . . . 493

Itineraries

JacóMontezuma

PlayaTamarindo

VolcánArenalMonteverde &

Bosque NubosoMonteverde

LaFortuna

SAN JOSÉ

Parque NacionalManuel Antonio

ÉÉ

É

ÉÉ

É

PAC I F I COCEAN

CAR I BBEANSEA

NICARAGUA

PANAMA

#_

#•#•

#•

#•#•

#•

#÷

‚

Essential Costa Rica

This is the trip you’ve been dreaming about: a romp through paradise with seething volcanoes, tropical parks, warm-water beaches and ghostly cloud forests.

From San José, beeline north to La Fortuna. After a refreshing forest hike on the flanks of Volcán Arenal, soak in the country’s best hot springs. Then do the classic jeep-boat-jeep run across Lake Arenal to Monteverde, where you might encounter the elusive quetzal on a stroll through the Bosque Nuboso Monteverde.

Next: beach time. Head west to the biggest party town in Guanacaste, Playa Tama-rindo (or head to Mal País/Santa Teresa) and enjoy the ideal surf, top-notch restaurants and rowdy nightlife.

Continuing south, visit waterfalls and linger a bit in chilled-out Montezuma, where you can connect via speedboat to Jacó, another town with equal affection for surfing and partying. Spend half a day busing to Quepos, the gateway to Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio. A full day in the park starts with some jungle hikes and wildlife-watching and ends with a picnic and a dip in the park’s perfect waters.

2 WEEKS

33©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Tiptoe cloud-forest bridges and feel the lava bubbling below hot springs. Wander the zen quiet of the swampy lowlands, vibrant with avians, before basking in the bath-warm Pacific.

From San José, make for the Bosque Nuboso Monteverde to watch mist roll over dense forest and dare dizzying ziplines and aerial walkways.

Now, hop on a bus for Volcán Arenal, the country’s biggest active volcano. Though it’s not spitting lava, Arenal remains an incredible sight. Finish your hikes with a soak in the hot springs.

Leave the tourists behind at the lowland ecolodges of Caño Negro or Boca Tapada. After a couple of days connecting with easygoing Ticos, make for La Virgen to raft the white water of Río Sarapiquí.

Beach time! First stop: Playa Tamarindo, to party, sample some of the country’s best cuisine and learn to surf. During turtle season, Playa Grande hosts hordes of nesting leatherbacks.

Take a bus south to enjoy the sand and contemporary cuisine at Playa Sámara or swells at Mal País and Santa Teresa. Wind down with yoga in Nosara or Montezuma and head back by boat and bus to San José via Jacó, where you can enjoy some last rays of sunshine and a decadent meal.

2 WEEKS

Mal País &Santa Teresa

SAN JOSÉ

La Virgen& Río Sarapiquí

PlayaTamarindo &

Playa Grande VolcánArenal

Montezuma

PAC I F I COCEAN

CAR I BBEANSEA

Playa SámaraJacó

NICARAGUA

PANAMA

#•

#_

#•

#• #•

É

É

É

É

#•

BosqueNuboso

Monteverde#•

#•

É

É

#•

É

Northern Costa Rica

34

PLAN YO

UR TRIP ItIn

er

ar

Ies

Hands down the best itinerary for adven-turers, this is the wilder side of Costa Rica.

Either head down the Pacific coast or fly into Puerto Jiménez, gateway to Penín-sula de Osa. Here you can spend a day or so kayaking the mangroves and soaking up the charm.

The undisputed highlight of the Osa is Parque Nacional Corcovado, the crown jewel of the country’s national parks. Spend a few days exploring jungle and beach trails with a local guide, whose expert eyes will spot tapirs and rare birds; trekkers willing to get down and dirty can tackle a through-hike of the park.

Return to Puerto Jiménez and travel up the Pacific Costanera Sur to Uvita, where you can surf, snorkel and look for whales at Parque Nacional Marino Ballena.

Then it’s off to the mountains. Link together buses for San Gerardo de Rivas, where you can spend a day acclimating to the altitude and hiking through the Cloudbridge Nature Reserve. End the trip with an exhilarating two-day adven-ture to the top of Cerro Chirripó, Costa Rica’s highest peak.

2 WEEKS

Southern Costa Rica

Here jungle touches ocean and fresh fish practically leap onto your plate.

Kick things off with Parque Nacional Carara, and spend a few hours hiking up and down the coast. Then head south to Quepos, a convenient base for the coun-try’s most popular national park, Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio. Here the rainforest sweeps down to meet the sea, providing a refuge for rare animals, includ-ing the endangered squirrel monkey.

Continue south, stopping at roadside ceviche stands, and visit Hacienda Barú National Wildlife Refuge for some sloth-spotting, or keep heading south to Dominical in search of waves. For desert-ed beaches, continue on to Uvita, where you can look for whales spouting offshore at Parque Nacional Marino Ballena.

From Uvita, move south to the far-flung Península de Osa, where you’ll journey through the country’s top national park for wildlife-viewing. Emerge at the northern end in lush, remote Bahía Drake, where you’ll swim in paradisiacal coves. Return to civilization via ferry through Central America’s longest stretch of mangroves to Sierpe, home to ancient stone spheres.

2 WEEKS

#

#

#

•

•

•

R

Dominical

Parque Nacional Carara

Hacienda BarúNational Wildlife

Refuge

Penínsulade Osa

#•

#•

PA C I F I CO C E A N

C A R I B B E A NS E A

#•

#÷

#• Uvita & ParqueNacional MarinoBallena

Quepos & ParqueNacional ManuelAntonio

É

É

É

#

#

#

#

#

#

•

•

•

•

•

•

PANAMA

Uvita & ParqueNacional Marino

Ballena

Cerro Chirripó

PuertoJiménez

#÷ É É

É

É

#•

#•

#•

#•#•

#•

NICARAGUA

Parque NacionalCorcovado

San Gerardo de Rivas& CloudbridgeNature Reserve



#•

#•Sierpe Bahía Drake

É

PANA

MA

É

Pacific Coast Explorer

35PLAN

YOUR TRIP It

Ine

ra

rIe

s

The Central Valley circuit – centering on volcanoes, waterfalls and strong cups of coffee – explores the spiritual core of the country, all sans the madding crowds.

Begin at San Isidro de Heredia for a close encounter with rescued baby sloths and toucans and a taste of the region’s chocolate history. Hike around Volcán Irazú, at 3432m the largest and highest active volcano in Costa Rica, and peer right into its crater. With geological and culinary wonders covered, raft your way along the Río Pacuare, one of the coun-try’s best white-water runs and with some of Central America’s most scenic rafting.

Move on to Monumento Nacional Arqueológico Guayabo, the country’s only significant archaeological site, pro-tecting ancient petroglyphs and aqueducts. Finally, swing south into the heart of the Valle de Orosi, Costa Rican coffee coun-try, and take the caffeinated 32km loop passing the country’s oldest church and endless green hills. End on a spiritual note at Costa Rica’s grandest colonial-era tem-ple, the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Los Ángeles in Cartago.

10 DAYS Central Valley

Latin beats change to Caribbean rhythms as you explore the ‘other Costa Rica.’

Hop an eastbound bus out of San José for Cahuita, capital of Afro-Caribbean culture and gateway to Parque Nacional Cahuita. Decompress in this mellow vil-lage before moving on to Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, the Caribbean’s center for nightlife, cuisine and all-round good vibes.

From Puerto Viejo, rent a bicycle and ride to Manzanillo, jumping-off point for snorkeling, kayaking and hiking in Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo.

To fall further off the map, grab a boat from Moín to travel up the canal-ribboned coast to Tortuguero, where you can watch nesting green and leatherback turtles. But the real reason you’re here is to canoe the mangrove-lined canals of Parque Nacion-al Tortuguero, Costa Rica’s mini-Amazon.

After spotting your fill of wildlife, head back to San José via water taxi and bus through the tiny town of Cariari and then Guápiles, an ideal base for gazing at open farmland and exploring Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo.

10 DAYS

NICARAGUA

PANAMA

Tortuguero & ParqueNacional Tortuguero

Puerto Viejode Talamanca

Bocas del Toro

David

SAN JOSÉ

Guápiles &Parque

NacionalBraulio Carrillo

#•



#

#

#

#

#

•

•

•

•

•

NICARAGUA

Cartago



ParqueNacionalCahuita

Refugio Nacional deVida Silvestre Gandoca-

Manzanillo

PANAMA

Moín

#•

#•

#•#•

#•#_

#÷

É

É

É

É

É

#•

#•

#•

#•

VolcanIrazú

MonumentoNacional

ArqueológicoGuayabo

RíoPacuare

Valle deOrosi

#•

É

É

É

É

#•San Isidro de

Heredia

É

Caribbean Coast

36

PLAN YO

UR TRIP ItIn

er

ar

Ies

Top: Volcán Arenal (p254)

Bottom: Bahía Drake (p427)

CO

LIN D

. YOU

NG

/SH

UT

TE

RSTO

CK

©

CA

MP

PH

OTO

/GE

TT

Y IMA

GES

©

37PLAN

YOUR TRIP It

Ine

ra

rIe

s

NicoyaGolfo de

PapagayoGolfo de

O C E A NP A C I F I C

LosChiles

LA GAVILINA

Ciudad Quesada(San Carlos)

HERBS & ART

Upala

La Cruz

Liberia

Bagaces

Nicoya

Cañas

CarlosSan

Tilarán

Paquera

Montezuma

Puntarenas

BOCA TAPADA AREA

Tamarindo

& WILDLIFE REFUGELA ENSENADA LODGE

Paraíso

El Coco

PALO SECOPLAYA

MATAPALO

PLAYA PALO SECO

Mal País Jacó

NacionalCarara

Parque

Santa RosaNacional

Parque

NicaraguaLago de

de ArenalLaguna

N I C A R A G U A

Off the Beaten Track: Costa Rica

Not far off the Costanera Sur, butsurprisingly lightly trodden, Matapalodoesn't have much more thankilometers of gray-sand beach andwild waves for the more experiencedsurfing set. (p388)

MATAPALO

A dirt road through palm plantationswinds up at a 6km finger of isolatedblack-sand beach, and nearbymangroves to explore by boat.(p371)

PLAYA PALO SECO

Travel through a Tico heartland of pineapple plantations to discover thepristine rainforest of Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Mixto Maquenque. (p275)

BOCA TAPADA AREA

This bake shop and gallery offerstwo-day ‘extreme hikes’ between ElCastillo and San Gerardo (near SantaElena) that traverse old-growthforests and raging rivers. (p259)

LA GAVILANAHERBS & ART

38

PLAN YO

UR TRIP ItIn

er

ar

Ies

PLAN YO

UR TRIP

S E AC A R I B B E A N

Bahía deCoronado

GolfoDulce

PARISMINA

Puerto Viejode Talamanca

Limón

SELVA

Puerto

Cahuita

ColoradoBarra delBOCA

AREATAPADA

Puerto Viejode Sarapiquí

Trinidad

Turrialba

Alajuela

SAN JOSÉ

Heredia

Cartago

Cariari

Siquirres

BANANITO

PARISMINA

Tortuguero

Sixaola

PARQUE

PasoReal

CanoasPaso

Golfito

PuertoJiménez

Claro

Neily

Río

David

PARQUE INTERNACIONALLA AMISTAD

El General

PalmarNorte

Quepos

MATAPALOSan Isidro de

LUNA LODGE

LUNA LODGE

INTERNACIONALLA AMISTAD

Parque

Parque NacionalVolcán Poás

NacionalTortuguero

Parque

ChirripóNacional

Los QuetzalesNacionalParque

Parque

CorcovadoNacional P A N A M A

30 miles50 km

00

This far-flung spit of sand betweencanal and Caribbean Sea has only thebarest bones of tourist-orientedinfrastructure and not a lot of actionbesides turtle conservation andkayaking the local canals. (p148)

PARISMINA

Up a winding road into the mountains,this remote ecolodge bordersParque Nacional Corcovado and isrun by an infectiously passionateconservationist. (p439)

LUNA LODGE

The country's deepest, mostimpenetrable wilderness lies in thisvast park that spans both Costa Ricaand Panama. Encompassingnumerous life zones, the forest'sdiversity is truly awesome. (p424)

PARQUE INTERNACIONAL LA AMISTAD

One of the country's most secludedand delightful ecolodges offerswildlife encounters, delicious mealsand comfy cabins made fromrecycled hardwood atop Caribbean-style stilts. (p162)

SELVA BANANITO

39PLAN

YOUR TRIP It

Ine

ra

rIe

sPLAN

YOUR TRIP

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

532532

OUR READERSAshley Garver, Bridget Bero, David Callow, Deborah Weisinger, Edward Stiel, Federica Pe-ruzzi, Iris Köster, Jean-Sebastien Goupil, Joan Mcconnell, John Shepherd, Kimberly Hayward, Marc Van-pé, Monika Schindler, Pascale Braam, Rebecca Kass, Shawn Smith, Susana Jimeno, Tommy Crabeels

AUTHOR THANKSAshley HarrellThanks to: editor Bailey Freeman for her kind-ness/wisdom, co-authors Jade Bremner and Brian Kluepfel for general awesomeness, Ronni and Mack Harrell for the support/dog-sitting, Adele Fox for being the best Gumpy, Genna Ma-rie and Sean Davis for the helpful info/endless entertainment/undying friendship, Alejandro López-Meoño for the time/expertise, Andy Lavender for stalking quetzals and cheesemak-ers with me, Jonathan Harris for his kindness and his genius, and finally, the knowledgeable/hilarious/eternally accommodating Stacey Auch for leading me up mountains and beyond. Love you.

Jade BremnerGracias to helpful destination editor Bailey Freeman for her quick responses and support. Thanks also to local experts Ludrick Mcloud,

for his informative guiding services, Gregg from Costa Rica Surf School, for showing me the Caribbean’s best breaks, and Harriet Sinclair for her impressive 4WD driving skills. Plus, Nel-son Torres and Julia Vaughns for their endless contacts book and helpfulness, and to every-one working hard behind the scenes – Cheree Broughton, Dianne and Jane, and Neill Coen.

Brian KluepfelTo Paula Paz, my wife, you were there, even though you weren’t, you know?

Muchas gracias to Wilfredo de Cabuya, Mar-lon y Pippa de Bijagua, Ernesto y Joel de Cano Negro, Sonia de La Fortuna, Lieke de Junquillal (¡Viva Mandela!), Carole and Sjull de Quebec and Holland, Tony de Avellanas, Mariano de Tamarindo for fixing my computer, and my great LP colleagues, Bailey, Jade and Ashley.

And to the Flying Taco of Samara and La Fortuna Pub – thanks for letting me sing in your bars.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Clas-sification’, Hydrology and Earth System Scienc-es, 11, 163344.Cover photograph: Red-eyed tree frog, Marco Simoni/AWL ©

Behind the Scenes


533BEH

IND TH

E SCENES

THIS BOOKThis 13th edition of Lonely Planet’s Costa Rica guide-book was researched and written by Ashley Harrell, Jade Bremner and Brian Kluepfel. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editor Bailey FreemanProduct Editors Kate James, Saralinda TurnerSenior Cartographer Corey HutchisonAssisting Cartographer James LevershaBook Designer Jessica RoseAssisting Editors Sarah

Bailey, Katie Connolly, Lucy Cowie, Melanie Dankel, Andrea Dobbin, Emma Gibbs, Charlotte Orr, Tamara ShewardCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Carolyn Boicos, Hannah Cartmel, Andi Jones, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble

534

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Aaccommodations 24, 504-6,

see also individual locations

language 525-6activities 30-2, 40-7, see

also individual activitiesaddresses 510aerial trams 144, 513air travel

to/from Costa Rica 516-17within Costa Rica 519-20,

520Alajuela 104-9, 106Alvarado Quesada,

Carlos 463amphibians 283, 435, 497,

17, 44, 496-7animal bites 508animals, see wildlife,

individual animalsaquariums 351archaeological sites

Finca Cántaros 423Monumento Nacional

Arqueológico Guayabo 135

Sitio Arqueológico Finca 6 426

Turtle Trap 385area codes 23Arenal area 57, 239-66,

240-1climate 239food 239highlights 240-1, 240-1parks & reserves 242transportation 242wildlife-watching 239

Arias Sánchez, Óscar 470, 471, 473

art galleries. see galleries

arts 477-8tours 71

Atenas 110-11Atlantic Slope 137-48ATMs 510

BB&Bs 504Bahía Ballena 342-3Bahía Drake 427-32,

428, 37Bahía Gigante 345-6Bahía Potrero 293-8Bahía Salinas 236-8Bajos del Toro 113-14banana industry 143, 470-1bargaining 25, 510Barra del Colorado 157-61Barrio Amón 66Barrio Escalante 69Barva 119-20bathrooms 513beaches 27

best for children 49-50Boca Barranca 356Cahuita 162La Playita 377Nosara area 313, 318-

19, 484Parque Nacional

Cahuita 169Playa Avellanas 307-9Playa Bejuco 326Playa Blanca (Cahuita)

162, 481 Playa Blanca (Punta

Leona) 360Playa Blanca (Reserva

Forestal Golfo Dulce) 447

Playa Brasilito 297Playa Cacao 449Playa Caletas 433Playa Carrillo 325-6, 294Playa Cativo 458

Playa Cocalito 433Playa Cocles 180-1Playa Cocolito 335Playa Conchal 297-8Playa Corzalito 326Playa Coyote 327-8Playa Doña Ana 356Playa El Carmen 329Playa Espadilla 385Playa Espadilla Sur 385Playa Esterillos 370-1Playa Flamingo 296Playa Garza 313Playa Grande

(Península de Nicoya) 298-300, 318

Playa Grande (Montezuma) 338

Playa Guiones 313Playa Hermosa (central

Pacific coast) 368-70, 392

Playa Hermosa (Península de Nicoya) 291-2

Playa Hermosa (Santa Teresa) 329

Playa Herradura 359-61Playa Junquilla 309-10Playa los Cedro 334Playa Mantas 360Playa Manuel Antonio 385Playa Manzanillo 329Playa Matapalo 440Playa Montezuma 338Playa Naranjo 231-2,

346, 208Playa Negra (Cahuita) 162Playa Negra (Península de

Nicoya) 307-9, 318Playa Nicuesa 458Playa Ocotal 292-3Playa Palo Seco 371Playa Pan de Azúcar 298Playa Pan Dulce 440Playa Pelada 313Playa Pochote 342-3

Playa Puerto Escondido 385

Playa Sámara 20, 321-5, 20, 336-7

Playa San Isidro 356Playa San Josecito

433, 458Playa San Miguel 327-8Playa Santa Teresa 329Playa Tamarindo 300-7,

302, 319Playa Tambor 342-3Playa Vargas 169Playa Ventanas 402Playas del Coco 288-91Potrero 293Puerto Limón 144Punta Uva 180Sector Santa Rosa 230

bicycle travel, see cyclingBijagua 214-16Biolley 459birds 197, 354, 392, 452,

493, 494-5bird-watching 42

Bahía Drake 428Bijagua 214Bosque Nuboso

Monteverde 211Curi-Cancha Reserve 195La Fortuna 246La Virgen 277Mata de Limón 356Parque Nacional Braulio

Carrillo 140Parque Nacional

Carara 357Parque Nacional Isla del

Coco 460Parque Nacional

Tortuguero 150Refuge Nacional de Vida

Silvestre Caño Negro 267, 270

San Gerardo de Dota 409San José 70

boat travel 519, 521


535IN

DEX B

- Dboating

Bahía Salinas 236Parque Nacional

Tortuguero 151Puerto Viejo de

Sarapiqu 281Puntarenas 351Refuge Nacional de

Vida Silvestre Caño Negro 270

Boca Barranca 356Boca Tapada area 275-6books 462

culture 474, 477history 477indigenous people 475

border crossings 517-19Nicaragua 160, 235, 272,

517-18Panama 188, 518-19

Boruca (Brunka) people 420-1

Bosque Nuboso Monteverde 16, 196-7, 210-12, 4, 16, 196-7, 209

Bribrí 184Brunka people 420-1 budget 23bullfighting 476bus travel

to/from Costa Rica 519within Costa Rica

521-2, 524bushwalking, see hikingbusiness hours 511butterflies 502, 482, 502

Butterfly Garden 194-5El Castillo-Arenal

Butterfly Conservatory 257

Manuel Antonio Nature Park & Wildlife Refuge 377

Mike’s Jungle Butterfly Farm 327

Spirogyra Jardín de Mariposas 67

CCabécar people 184cable cars 195Cabo Blanco 334Cabo Matapalo 440-1Cabuya 334-5Cachí 128Cahuita 162-8, 164-5camping 504Canales de Tortuguero

149, 179

Cañas 218-19canoeing, see also

kayaking, raftingLa Fortuna 247Río Claro 433

canopy tours 18, 44-6, 19, 40, 48

Bahía Drake 427El Castillo 258La Fortuna 246-7Laguna de Arenal 260Playa Sámara 322Quepos 373Santa Elena 198-9

canyoningLa Fortuna 246Monteverde 198-9

capuchin monkeys 501, 5car travel 26, 519, 522-4Carate 439-40carbon neutrality 462Caribbean Coast 14, 57,

136-88, 138-9accommodations 136climate 136food 136highlights 138, 138-9history 137parks & reserves 137transport 137

Cartago 121-2Catarata de Río Celeste

217, 489Catarata Manantial de

Agua Viva 355, 358, 355

Catarata Río Fortuna 243, 269

cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals

cavesParque Nacional Barra

Honda Caverns 312Venado Caves 267

cell phones 22, 512central Pacific coast 58,

347-404, 348-9accommodations 347climate 347food 347highlights 348-9history 350parks & reserves 350transportation 350

Central Valley & Highlands 56, 101-35, 102-3

accommodations 101childrens’ attractions 119climate 101

food 101highlights 102-3, 102-3history 104transport 104

Cerro Amigos 198Cerro Chato 26Cerro Chirripó 21, 416-18,

21, 453Cerro de La Muerte 411-12Cerro Urán 419Chase, Alfonso 478cheese production 419Chilamate 279-81children, travel with 48-

50, 74Chinchilla, Laura 473chocolate production

Bijagua 215Chilamate 280La Fortuna 245Manuel Antonio 377Monteverde 200Parque Nacional

Tortuguero 153Playa Cocles 181Reserva Forestal Golfo

Dulce 447San Isidro de

Heredia 120 Yorkín 184

churches & cathedralsBasílica de Nuestra

Señora de Los Ángeles 122

Catedral de la Mercedes 112

Catedral Metropolitana 67

Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Limpia Concepción 127

Iglesia de San José Orosi 124

La Agonía 222Cinco Ceibas 279cinema 462, 478Ciudad Quesada (San

Carlos) 274-5climate 22, 30-2, 506climbing 128, see also

hikingclothing 24cloud forest 196-7, 483

Bosque Nuboso Monteverde 16, 196-7, 210-12, 4, 16, 196-7, 208-9

Cloudbridge Nature Reserve 414

Colinas Verdes Zapotal 213

Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo 137, 140-1, 279

Reserva Santa Elena 212Talamanca Reserve 414

Cloudbridge Nature Reserve 414

coatis 501, 500coffee industry 104, 469-70coffee plantations &

production 21Barva 119-20Biolley 459Monteverde 200Paraíso 124San Gerardo de

Dota 409San Miguel 276

Colinas Verdes Zapotal 213Columbus, Christopher

465-6conservation

organizations 515consulates 507cooking courses

La Fortuna 245Manuel Antonio 377

Coopedota 409, 470coral reefs 481costs 23

accommodations 505food 507

courses, see cooking courses, language courses, yoga

crafts, see handicraftsCrocodile Bridge 357crocodiles 357, 358-9,

365, 497Cuban immigrants 464Cuesta de los

Arrepentidos 418 culture 474-8Curi-Cancha Reserve 195Curré 420-1currency 22, 510customs regulations 506cycling 47, 520-1

Bahía Salinas 237Playa Sámara 321Playa Tamarindo 300-1

Ddance 478dangers, see safe traveldeforestation 489-90dengue fever 508Día de Guanacaste 31Día de Juan Santamaría 31Día de los Muertos 32

536

IND

EX D- I

Diamante Falls 391diarrhea 508Diquís Delta 426disabilities, travelers

with 513discount cards 506diseases 508-9diving & snorkeling 29,

46, 43Bahía Drake 429Manzanillo 185Parque Nacional

Cahuita 169Parque Nacional Isla del

Coco 459-60Parque Nacional Marino

Ballena 401Península de Nicoya 289Playa Hermosa 291Playa Ocotal 292Playa Tamarindo 301-2Punta Uva 181Quepos 372Refugio Nacional de Vida

Silvestre Gandoca- Manzanillo 186

Uvita 398dolphins 480, 499, 498dolphin-watching 480

Bahía Drake 429Parque Nacional Manuel

Antonio 387Playas de Coco 288Quepos 373Refugio Nacional de Vida

Silvestre Gandoca- Manzanillo 186-7

Uvita 398Dominical 389-96Dos Brazos 446-7Drake, Sir Francis 431driving, see car travelDVDs 512

Eearthquakes 512Ecocentro Danaus 243El Castillo 255-60El Mirador La Ventana 210El Viejo Wetlands 221electricity 506embassies 507emergencies 23, see also

safe travellanguage 528

environmental issues 462, 488-90

epiphytes 196Escalada Cachí 128Escaleras 396-7Estación Biológica La Selva

282-3etiquette 25, 54events 30-2exchange rates 23eyelash pit viper 497, 496

Ffarmstays 220festivals 30-2Fiesta de los Diablitos 30,

32, 32Fiestas de Palmares 30, 115Figueres, José 114, 471-2films 462, 478

festivals 478Finca Cántaros 423fishing 29

Barra del Colorado 160Golfito 450Laguna de Arenal 260Parque Nacional Juan

Castro Blanco 111Parque Nacional

Tapantí-Macizo Cerro de la Muerte 127

Playa Carrillo 325Playa Hermosa 291Playas del Coco 288-9Quepos 373

food 51-5children 50language 526-7

frogs 283, 435, 497, 17, 44, 496-7

fútbol 476

Ggalleries, see also

museumsCasa de la Cultura 351Casa del Soñador 127Central Nacional de la

Cultura 66Galería Nacional 63TEOR/éTica 66-7

gallo pinto 54gardens, see parks &

gardensgay rights 475gay travelers 509-10

Manuel Antonio 378San José 89

geography 479-81

geology 480-1golf

Playa Herradura 360San José 69

Golfito 449-51Golfo Dulce 21, 449-57, 21Grecia 111-12Guápiles 141-2Guayabo 466Guaymí people 448

HHacienda Barú National

Wildlife Refuge 389hammerhead sharks 499,

499handicrafts 478

Reserva Indígena Boruca 420

San José 94Sarchí 112, 2-3

health 507-9Heliconia Island 283hepatitis 508Heredia 116-19, 117highlands, see Central

Valley & Highlandshiking 29, 41, 512

Agujitas-Corcovado Trail 433

Bahía Drake 427Bosque Nuboso

Monteverde 210-11Cerro Amigos 198Curi-Cancha Reserve 195Dos Brazos 446Jacó 362-3La Fortuna 245Montes de Oro 213Monteverde & Santa

Elena 199-200Orosi 125Parque Internacional La

Amistad 424Parque Nacional Barra

Honda 312Parque Nacional Braulio

Carrillo 140Parque Nacional Cahuita

168, 169Parque Nacional Carara

357-8Parque Nacional Chirripó 417-19Parque Nacional

Corcovado 434, 436Parque Nacional Isla del

Coco 460Parque Nacional Manuel

Antonio 386

Parque Nacional Palo Verde 220-1

Parque Nacional Rincón de la Vieja 227

Parque Nacional Tapantí-Macizo Cerro de la Muerte 126-7

Parque Nacional Tortuguero 151

Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal 254-5

Playa Sámara 321Puerto Viejo de

Sarapiqui 282Puerto Viejo de

Talamanca 171Reserva Bajo del

Tigre 198safety 512San Gerardo de

Dota 409Sector Santa Rosa 231

history 465-73ancient civilizations 465banana industry 470-1civil war 471-2coffee boom 469-70

hitchhiking 524Hoffmann, Karl 344holidays 511-12Horquetas 283-4horseback riding 46

Cahuita 162Jacó 363La Fortuna 245-6Nosara 313Parque Nacional Volcán

Arenal 255Santa Elena 198

hostels 504-5hot springs 214

Ciudad Quesada 274La Fortuna 243-5Orosi 126Parque Nacional Rincón

de la Vieja 227-8San Gerardo de

Rivas 415Tabacón 244-5, 268-9Volcán Miravalles area

219-20hotels 505howler monkeys 501Humedal Nacional

Térraba-Sierpe 426-7hummingbirds 495, 4, 495

Iiguanas 497, 496immigration 516


537IN

DEX I- N

independence 468-9indigenous peoples 184,

246, 267, 273, 420-1, 448, 475

insects 502insurance 509

health 507vehicle 522-3

InterAmericana Norte 212-38

internet access 509internet resources 23

accommodations 504Costa Rica news 512environmental issues

492LGBT 509national parks 490sports 476travel advice 513volunteering 514-15

Isla Bolaños 236Isla Cabuya 334Isla Damas 371Isla del Caño 429Isla del Coco 458-60, 43Isla San Lucas 346Isla Tortuga 345Islita 326-7itineraries 33-9, 62, 294-5,

33, 34, 35, 36, 294

JJacó 361-8, 362, 392jaguars 181, 501, 500

Kkayaking 27, 43-4, see also

canoeing, raftingBahía Drake 427Domenical 391Jacó 363La Fortuna 247Laguna de Arenal 260Playa Junquillal 309Playa Sámara 322Reserva Forestal Golfo

Dulce 447Refugio Nacional de Vida

Silvestre Gandoca- Manzanillo 186

Reserva Forestal Golfo Dulce 447

Río Agujitas 427Río Sarapiquí 278

Keith, Minor 470-1Kèköldi people 184kitesurfing 43

Bahía Salinas 236-7

La Cruz 234Laguna de Arenal 263

LLa Cruz 234-6La Danta Salvaje 140La Fortuna 242-54, 244,

256, 40accommodations 247-51activities 243-5courses 245drinking & nightlife

252-3food 251-2medical services 253shopping 253sights 242-3tours 245-7transportation to/from

253-4transportation

within 254La Palma 438, 447-8La Virgen 277-9Laguna de Arenal 260-5language 525-9language courses 509

Alajuela 105Central Valley 123Domenical 391Heredia 116Jacó 363Monteverde 198Orosi 125Playa Sámara 322Playa Tamarindo 304Puerto Viejo de

Talamanca 171San José 77Turrialba 132

Las Fiestas de Palmares 30, 115

Las Tablillas 272leatherback turtles 499legal matters 509LGBT rights 475LGBT travelers 509-10

Manuel Antonio 378San José 89

Liberia 222-7, 224-5literature 477, see

also bookslizards 497, 11, 496Llano Bonito 418lookouts

Mirador Centro Turistico 234

Mirador El Silencio 243

Mirador La Ventana 210Mirador Orosi 124Mirador Valle

Naranjo 231Los Chiles 271-3lowlands, see northern

lowlands

Mmacaws 357, 495, 494Mal País 11, 319, 328-34malaria 508Maleku people 246, 267,

273mangroves 483manta rays 499, 28Manuel Antonio area 377-

87, 382Manuel Antonio village

383-4Manzanillo 185-6, 178maps 510markets

Cartago 122Heredia 118Playa Sámara 324Puerto Limón 145Puerto Viejo de

Talamanca 180Quepos 375San Isidro de El General

413San José 63, 93, 94Uvita 397

marriage equality 475Matapalo 388-9measures 512media 464, 512medical services 508, see

also individual locationsMirador Centro

Turistico 234Mirador El Silencio 243Mirador La Ventana 210Mirador Orosi 124Mirador Valle Naranjo 231mobile phones 22, 512Moín 147-8money 22, 23, 25, 510-11monkeys 501, 5, 500-1Monte Sin Fe 418Montes de Oro 212-13Monteverde 191-210, 192,

2, 48Monteverde Cloud Forest,

see Bosque Nuboso Monteverde

Montezuma 16, 335-42, 338, 16, 336

Monumento Nacional Arqueológico Guayabo 135

Mora Fernández, Juan 469motorcycle travel 522-4mountain-biking, see

cyclingmovies 462, 478Muelle de San Carlo 273-4museums, see also

galleriesLa Casona 230-1Museo de Arte

Costarricense 68-9Museo de Arte y Diseño

Contemporáneo 66Museo de Ciencias

Naturales La Salle 69Museo de Cultura

Popular 119Museo de Insectos 69Museo de Jade 63Museo de los Niños 63Museo de Oro

Precolombino y Numismática 63

Museo de San José Orosi 124

Museo Histórico Cultural Juan Santamaría 104

Museo Histórico Marino de la Ciudad de Puntarenas 351

Museo Nacional de Costa Rica 63, 58, 84

music 477-8

NNaranjo, Carmen 477national parks & reserves

487-8, see also parks & gardens, wildlife reserves & sanctuaries

Arenal & northern lowlands 242

Bosque Nuboso Monteverde 16, 196-7, 210-12, 4, 16, 196-7, 208-9

Caribbean Coast 137central Pacific coast 350Hacienda Barú National

Wildlife Refuge 389northwestern Costa

Rica 191Parque Internacional La

Amistad 424-5, 453Parque Nacional Barra


Carrillo 137, 140-1, 279

538

IND

EX N-P

national parks & reserves continued

Parque Nacional Cahuita 168-70, 169

Parque Nacional Carara 356-8

Parque Nacional Chirripó 416-19, 453

Parque Nacional Corcovado 434-8, 436, 42

Parque Nacional Isla del Coco 458-60

Parque Nacional Juan Castro Blanco 111

Parque Nacional Los Quetzales 411

Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio 12, 384-7, 5, 13, 393

Parque Nacional Marino Ballena 355, 401-2, 354-5


Parque Nacional Piedras Blancas 451

Parque Nacional Rincón de la Vieja 227-30, 58


Parque Nacional Tortuguero 149-51, 150, 178, 482, 491

Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal 254-5, 269

Parque Nacional Volcán Irazú 122-3, 2

Parque Nacional Volcán Poás 19, 109-10, 19, 131, 485, 488

Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio 216-19, 489

Parque Nacional Volcán Turrialba 135

Peninsula de Nicoya 288Refuge Nacional de Vida

Silvestre Caño Negro 267-71

Refugio Nacional de Fauna Silvestre Ostional 317-21

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Curú 343-4

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo 186-7, 4

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Mixto Maquenque 275

Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde 16, 196-7, 210-12, 4, 16, 196-7, 208-9

Reserva Biológica Hitoy-Cerere 161

Reserva Biológica Lomas de Barbudal 237

Reserva Biológico Isla del Caño 429, 28

Reserva Forestal Golfo Dulce 447-9

Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo Blanco 334

Reserva Santa Elena 212Sector Santa Rosa 230-3sothern Costa Rica 408

Neily 422newspapers 464, 512Ngöbe people 448Nicaragua

relations with 463-4travel to/from 160, 235,

272, 517-18Nicoya 310-12northern Caribbean 148-61northern lowlands 57, 239-

42, 266-76, 240climate 239food 239highlights 240, 240parks & reserves 242transportation 242wildlife-watching 239

northwestern Costa Rica 57, 189-238, 190

accommodations 189climate 189food 189highlights 190, 190parks & reserves 191transport 191

Nosara 18, 313-17, 318-19, 18, 318-19, 484

Nuevo Arenal 261-3

OOjochal 402-4olive ridley turtles 230,

309, 320, 499, 498opening hours 511Orosi 124-6oxcarts 112

PPacific coast, see central

Pacific coastpainting 478Palmar 421-2Palmares 30, 115, Panama, travel to/from

188, 518-19Paquera 344-5Paraíso 123-4Parismina 148-9parks & gardens, see

also national parks & reserves

Arenal Natura 242Finca Cántaros 423Finca La Isla 170Frog’s Heaven 283Jardín Botánico Else

Kientzler 112Jardines Secretos 415Lankester Gardens 124Mike’s Jungle Butterfly

Farm 327Parque Central 67Parque España 67-8Parque Francisco

Alvarado 113Parque Metropolitano La

Sabana 68Parque Morazán 67, 84Parque Nacional 67Pura Vida Gardens &

Waterfalls 358Spirogyra Jardín de

Mariposas 67Tree of Life 162Wilson Botanical

Garden 423Parque Internacional La

Amistad 424-5, 453Parque Morazán 67, 84Parque Nacional Barra


Carrillo 137, 140-1, 279Parque Nacional Cahuita

168-70, 169Parque Nacional Carara

356-8Parque Nacional Chirripó

416-19, 453Parque Nacional

Corcovado 12, 434-8, 436, 13, 42

Parque Nacional Isla del Coco 458-60

Parque Nacional Juan Castro Blanco 111

Parque Nacional Los Quetzales 411

Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio 12, 384-7, 5, 13, 393

Parque Nacional Marino Ballena 401-2, 355, 355


Parque Nacional Piedras Blancas 451

Parque Nacional Rincón de la Vieja 227-30, 58


Parque Nacional Tortuguero 11, 149-51, 150, 11, 178, 491

Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal 254-5, 269

Parque Nacional Volcán Irazú 122-3, 2

Parque Nacional Volcán Poás 19, 109-10, 19, 131, 485, 488

Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio 216-18, 489

Parque Nacional Volcán Turrialba 135

Paso Canoas 422-3passports 516Pavones 455-7Peñas Blancas 235Península de Nicoya 57,

285-346, 286-7accommodations 285climate 285highlights 286-7, 286-7itineraries 294-5, 294parks & reserves 288transportation 288

Península de Osa 58, 405-60, 406-7

climate 405highlights 406, 406-7history 408parks & reserves 408transportation 408

pharmacies 508phonecards 512photography 511Piedras 263-4planning 24-5

budgeting 23, 505, 507calendar of events 30-2children, travel with 50Costa Rica basics 22-3Costa Rica’s regions

56-8internet resources 23itineraries 33-9, 294-5


539IN

DEX P

-S repeat visitors 26travel seasons 22, 30-2

plants 482-5Playa Avellanas 307-9, 318Playa Blanca (Cahuita)

162, 481 Playa Blanca (Punta

Leona) 360Playa Blanca (Reserva

Forestal Golfo Dulce) 447

Playa Brasilito 297Playa Carrillo 325-6, 294Playa Cativo 458Playa Chiquita 180-5Playa Cocles 180-5Playa Conchal 297-8Playa Coyote 327-8Playa Esterillos 370-1Playa Flamingo 296Playa Grande (Peninsula de

Nicoya) 298-300, 318Playa Hermosa (central

Pacific coast) 368-70, 392

Playa Hermosa (Península de Nicoya) 291-2

Playa Hermosa (Santa Teresa) 329

Playa Herradura 359-61Playa Junquilla 309-10Playa Naranjo 231-2, 346,

208Playa Negra (Cahuita) 162Playa Negra (Península de

Nicoya) 307-9, 318Playa Nicuesa 458Playa Ocotal 292-3Playa Palo Seco 371Playa Pan de Azúcar 298Playa Pochote 342-3Playa Sámara 20, 321-5,

20, 336-7Playa San Josecito 458,

433Playa San Miguel 327-8Playa Tamarindo 300-7,

302, 319Playa Tambor 342-3Playa Vargas 169Playa Ventanas 402Playas del Coco 288-91Plaza de la Cultura 66Plaza de la Democracia 67Poás, see Parque Nacional

Volcán PoásPochote 342-3poison-dart frogs 435, 497,

17, 496-7politics 463

population 463ports 147postal services 511Potrero 293-6Poza el General 231Pozo Azul 217Pozo Verde 111prostitution 514public holidays 511-12Puerto Jiménez 441-6, 442Puerto Limón 143-7, 144Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqu

281-2Puerto Viejo de Talamanca

170-80, 172, 15accommodations 172-5activities 170-1courses 171drinking & nightlife 177shopping 177-80sights 170tourist information 180tours 171-2transport to/from 180

Punta Cahuita 170Punta Catedral 385Punta Leona 360Punta Mona 186Punta Uva 180-5Puntarenas 351-6

QQuakers 197Quepos 371-7, 372quetzals 18, 411, 495,

18, 494

Rradio 464rafting 14, 27, 43-4, see

also canoeing, kayakingCentral Valley 134La Fortuna 247Orosi 124-5Puerto Viejo de

Talamanca 170Refugio Nacional de

Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo 186

Río Pacuare 134, 170, 14Río Reventazón 170Río Sarapiquí 278Turrialba 129-32

Rancho La Merced National Wildlife Refuge 355

Rancho Quemado 432red-eyed tree frog 435,

497, 44, 497

Refuge Nacional de Vida Silvestre Caño Negro 267-71

Refugio Nacional de Fauna Silvestre Ostional 317-21

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Bahía Junquillal 233-4

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Curú 343-4

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca- Manzanillo 186-7, 4

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Mixto Maquenque 275

religion 463reptiles 277, 497, 496Reserva Biológica Bosque

Nuboso Monteverde 16, 196-7, 210-12, 4, 16, 196-7, 208-9

Reserva Biológica Hitoy-Cerere 161

Reserva Biológica Isla del Caño 429, 28

Reserva Biológica Lomas de Barbudal 237


Reserva Indígena Boruca 420-1

Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo Blanco 334

Reserva Santa Elena 212Río Nuevo 448Río Pacuare 134, 170, 14Río Sarapiquí 278Río Tortuguero 151rock climbing 128roseate spoonbill 495, 494ruins

Las Ruinas de la Parroquia 122

Monumento Nacional Arqueológico Guayabo 135

Ujarrás 127, 130

Ssafe travel 512

air crashes 521driving 522, 523government

advisories 513Salsa Brava 170, 171San Carlos 274-5San Gerardo de Dota

409-11San Gerardo de Rivas

414-16

San Isidro de El General 412-14, 413

San Isidro de Heredia 120-1

San José 20, 56, 60-100, 61, 64-5, 68-9, 72-3, 78, 82, 20

accommodations 60, 71-9

activities 69-70childrens’ activities 74climate 60cultural centers 93drinking & nightlife

89-91entertainment 91-3festivals & events 71food 60, 79-89highlights 61, 61history 62itineraries 62LGBT travelers 89medical services 96orientation 95safe travel 95shopping 93-5sights 62-9tourist information 96tours 70-1travel to/from 96-100travel within 100

San Luis 264-5San Miguel 276-7San Rafael de Guatuso 273San Ramón 114-16San Vito 423-4Sánchez, José León 477sanctuaries, see wildlife

reserves & sanctuaries, zoos

Santa Cruz 310Santa Elena 191-210, 192Santa Teresa 11, 328-34,

319, 10-11Santamaría, Juan 105, 469Sarapiquí Valley 17, 276-84Sarchí 112-13, 2scams 523scarlet macaws 357, 495,

494Sector Murciélago 231Sector Santa Rosa 230-3sex tourism 514sharks 499, 498, 499shopping 112, 478, see also

individual locationslanguage 528

Sierpe 425-6Siquirres 142-3

540

IND

EX S-W

Sitio Arqueológico Finca 6 426

Sixaola 188sloths 501, 208, 500snakes 277, 497, 496snorkeling, see diving &

snorkelingsoccer 476Solís, Luis Guillermo 463southern Caribbean coast

161-88southern Costa Rica 58,

405-60, 406-7climate 405highlights 406, 406-7history 408parks & reserves 408transportation 408

Spanish imperialism 467-8Spanish language 525-31spiders 502sportfishing, see fishingsports 476squirrel monkeys 501, 501surf camps 319surfing 17, 28, 41-2,

318-19, 476, 45, 318, 319

Boca Barranca 356Cabo Matapalo 440Dominical 390, 391Jacó 361-2Manuel Antonio 377Matapalo 388Montezuma 338-9Nosara 314Pavones 455Playa Avellanas 307Playa Grande 298-9Playa Hermosa 368Playa Negra 307Playa Sámara 321Playa Tamarindo 301,

319Puerto Viejo de

Talamanca 170-1Punta Cocles 181Refugio Nacional de

Fauna Silvestre Ostional 317

Santa Teresa 329-30Sector Santa Rosa 231-2Uvita 398

TTabacón Hot Springs 244-

5, 268-9Talamanca Reserve 414tapirs 501Tárcoles 358-9taxes 511, 517taxis 524Teatro Nacional 62-3, 70-1,

84-5telephone services 512-13theft 512thermal springs, see hot

springsTilarán 265-6time 22, 513tipping 25, 511Titi Conservation

Alliance 368toilets 513Tortuguero Village 151-9,

152, 178tourist information 513, see

also individual locationstours, see also individual

locationsart 71bird-watching 42canopy tours 44-6rafting & kayaking 44turtle-watching 159

travel to/from Costa Rica 516-19

travel within Costa Rica 519-24

traveler’s checks 511trekking, see hikingTronadora 264-5Turrialba 129-34turtles 145, 158-9, 486-7,

499, 158-9, 337, 498Parismina 148Parque Nacional Cahuita

168-9Parque Nacional Marino

Ballena 401Parque Nacional

Tortuguero 149-50, 153

Playa Coyote 327Playa Grande 298, 299Refuge Nacional de

Vida Silvestre Caño Negro 267

Refugio Nacional de Fauna Silvestre Ostional 320

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca- Manzanillo 187

tours 159typhoid 508

UUber 26Upala 266-7Uvita 397-401

Vvaccinations 507Valle de Orosi 123-8vegetarian travelers 54Venado Caves 267visas 22, 513-14visual arts 478Volcán Miravalles area

219-20Volcán Tenorio area 214-19,

489volcanic eruptions 512volcanoes

Cerro Chato 26Volcán Arenal 12, 254-5,

37, 268-9, 479Volcán Barva 140Volcán Irazú 122-3Volcán Miravalles 219Volcán Platanar 111Volcán Poás 109, 131Volcán Tenorio 216Volcán Turrialba 135

volunteering 96, 153, 514-15

WWalker, William 232, 469walking, see hikingwater 509water parks 104-5waterfalls

Cascada Verde 397Catarata de Río Celeste

217, 489Catarata del Toro 114, 7Catarata Manantial de

Agua Viva 355, 358, 355

Catarata Río Fortuna 243, 269

Cataratas Nauyaca 390Diamante Falls 391La Paz Waterfall Gardens

110, 130, 486Las Cataratas de Los

Chorros 111Llanos de Cortés 233,

209Montezuma Waterfalls

335, 336Pura Vida Gardens &

Waterfalls 358Viento Fresco 265

weather 22, 30-2, 506websites, see internet

resourcesweights 512whales 499, 354-5whale-watching

Bahía Drake 429Quepos 373Uvita 398

white-water rafting, see rafting

wi-fi 509wildlife 482-7, 493-502wildlife reserves &

sanctuaries, see also zoos

Aiko-logi 170Alturas Wildlife

Sanctuary 390Cerro Dantas Wildlife

Refuge 141Crocodile Bridge 357El Castillo-Arenal

Butterfly Conservatory 257

Hacienda Barú National Wildlife Refuge 389

Jaguar Centro de Rescate 181

Las Pumas 218Manuel Antonio Nature

Park & Wildlife Refuge 377

Ponderosa Adventure Park 222

Proyecto Asis 275Rancho La Merced

National Wildlife Refuge 355

Refuge for Wildlife 313Refugio Herpetologico

de Costa Rica 69Refugio Nacional de

Vida Silvestre Bahía Junquillal 233-4

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Camaronal 326

Toucan Rescue Ranch 120

wildlife-watching 15, 28, 42, see also bird-watching, dolphin-watching, turtles, whale-watching

Bahía Drake 427Bijagua 214-15Bosque Nuboso

Monteverde 211Monumento Nacional

Arqueológico Guayabo 135

Parque Internacional La Amistad 424


541IN

DEX W

-Z Parque Nacional Barra

Honda 312Parque Nacional

Carara 357Parque Nacional

Chirripó 417Parque Nacional

Corcovado 436-7Parque Nacional Manuel

Antonio 386-7Parque Nacional Marino

Ballena 401-2Parque Nacional Palo

Verde 221Parque Nacional

Tapantí-Macizo Cerro de la Muerte 126

Parque Nacional Tortuguero 150-1

Playa Grande 299

Refuge Nacional de Vida Silvestre Caño Negro 267

Refugio Nacional de Fauna Silvestre Ostional 317


Sector Santa Rosa 232windsurfing 43, 263Witch’s Rock 231women in Costa Rica 475-6women travelers 515work 515

Yyoga 47

Dominical 391Montezuma 339

Nosara 314Pavones 455Playa Hermosa 369Santa Teresa 330

Yorkín 184

ZZancudo 454-5Zarcero 113Zika virus 508-9ziplining 18, 19

El Castillo 258Hacienda Barú National

Wildlife Refuge 389Jacó 363Mal País 329Manuel Antonio 377-8Montezuma 339

Nosara 314Parque Nacional Braulio

Carrillo 140Puerto Limón 144San Bernardo de

Bagaces 220Santa Elena 199Turrialba 129

zoosAra Project 326Arenal EcoZoo 255-7Parque Reptilandia 390Parque Zoológico

Nacional Simón Bolívar 67

Ranario 194Sibu Sanctuary 313Snake Garden 277Zoo Ave 109

542

IND

EX -

Send your ‘Lonely Planet in the Wild’ photos to [email protected] We share the best on our Facebook page every week!

SON

IA G

OU

PIL

LONELY PLANET WILDIN THE

543

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway/Subte stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

CampingHut/Shelter

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkelingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

Gate

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Map Legend


OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415313th edition – Oct 2018ISBN 978 1 78657 176 2© Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 201810 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSAshley HarrellCentral Pacific Coast, Southern Costa Rica & Peninsula de Osa, San José After a brief stint selling day spa coupons door-to-door in South Florida, Ashley decided she’d rather be a writer. She went to journalism grad school, convinced a news-paper to hire her, and starting covering wildlife, crime and tourism, sometimes all in the same story. Fueling her zest for storytelling and the unknown, she traveled widely and moved often, from a tiny NYC apartment to a vast California

ranch to a jungle cabin in Costa Rica, where she started writing for Lonely Planet. From there her travels became farther flung, and she still laughs when paychecks arrive.

Jade BremnerCaribbean Coast, Central Valley & Highlands Jade has been a journalist for more than a decade. She has lived in and reported on four different regions. Wherever she goes she finds action sports to try, the weirder the better, and it’s no coincidence many of her favorite places have some of the best waves in the world. Jade has edited travel magazines and sections for Time Out and Radio Times and has contributed to The Times, CNN and The Independent. She feels

privileged to share tales from this wonderful planet we call home and is always looking for the next adventure. Jade also wrote the Understand and Survival Guide chapters.

Brian KluepfelPeninsula de Nicoya, Northwestern Costa Rica, Arenal & Northern Lowlands Brian has lived in Berkeley, Bolivia, the Bronx and the ‘burbs, among other places. His journalistic work across the Americas has ranged from the Copa America soccer tournament in Paraguay to an accordion festival in Quebec. His titles for LP include Venezuela, Costa Rica, Belize, Guatemala, Bolivia and Ecua-dor. An avid birder and musician, he blogs at www.brianbirdwatching.blogspot.

com. Brian also wrote the Plan section.



© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

costa rica 13 - preview (chapter) · costa rica ashley harrell, jade bremner, brian kluepfel arenal...

Documents