cosmetics, fragrances, food ingredients news … and analysis in the laboratory ... toledo was a...

Weighing and Analysis in the Laboratory

Advanced Scientific Testing for Cosmetics Production

Tradition vs. modern technologyErborare, an ancient term meaning to gather herbs in the fields in order to study their beneficial properties, was an activ-ity enjoyed by Franco Bergamaschi, the founder of L’Erbolario, and his biologist/cosmetologist wife, Daniela Villa.

The Company was established with the aim of manufacturing natural, plant-based cosmetics using family recipes test-ed and improved by experiments, research and distillation.

As scientific research becomes more me-ticulous, extensive and rigorous, the chal-lenge is to maintain an alliance between historical knowledge and continually ad-vancing technology; linking traditional phytotherapy and modern cosmetology.

Every step mattersIn the cosmetics industry, research and development plays a crucial role in the creation of safe and effective natural products with herbalists, biologists, phar-macists, cosmetologists, doctors and chemical engineers working together to produce innovative phytocosmetics. Meticulous research, advanced formula-tion and the detailed study of raw mate-rials requires technically advanced and scientifically reliable equipment, such as METTLER TOLEDO’s LiquiPhysics Excel-lence range of instruments.

Phytochemical extracts are produced by combining traditional methods with the latest extraction techniques to optimize the process, and advanced analytical methods are used to quantify important

4News

Cosmetics, Fragrances, Food Ingredients

Analytical solutions in the laboratory

The creation of safe and effective cosmetic products requires meticu-lous scientific research and comprehensive testing. This article dis-cusses how rigorous research methods, advanced formulation and the painstaking analysis of raw materials are assisted by METTLER TOLEDO’s reliable, scientifically advanced LiquiPhysics™ Excellence range of equipment.

Edition 02/2011

2 METTLER TOLEDO Cosmetics, Fragrances, Food Ingredients 4

Publisher Mettler-Toledo AG Laboratory Division Im Langacher CH-8606 Greifensee, Switzerland

Production Segment Marketing LABGlobal MarCom Switzerland

Subject to technical changes. © Mettler-Toledo AG 08/11Printed in Switzerland.

components, such as solar filters and natural organic substances, in the end product. Rigorous scientific testing is conducted at every stage of a product’s life cycle and, combined with strict clini-cal trials, this guarantees extremely high quality, environmentally friendly cosmet-ics. Supporting research and develop-ment at L’Erbolario is a quality control laboratory which ensures that all raw and semi-processed materials, as well as the finished products, meet the specified high standards.

Trustworthy partnerL’Erbolario works with a variety of raw materials, such as vegetable extracts, emulsified materials and surfactants, with widely differing properties, neces-sitating a number of different analytical methods. The laboratory needed an auto-mated system that could perform rapid si-multaneous density, refractive index and pH measurements, leaving the operator free to carry out other tasks. Dr. Paolo Cavalli, responsible for raw material qual-ity control, explained that, “METTLER TOLEDO was a trusted brand, known to L’Erbolario for its instrument quality and customer service as the laboratory al-ready used their balances and pH meters. Prior to purchase, we visited METTLER TOLEDO for a comprehensive demonstra-tion and were able to thoroughly test a large variety of materials on the instru-ment. We chose LiquiPhysics Excellence density and refractive index instruments for their ease of use, speed, precision, re-producibility of measurement, price and supporting documentation.”L'Erbolario's headquarter, surrounded by the picturesque countryside of the Adda South Park,

is powered exclusively by renewable energy. (Photo by Italo Pozzi)

L'Erbolario's shop in Via Statuto 11 in Milan reflects the L'Erbolario's philosophy: herbal tradition and modern phytocosmetics associated to an unmistakable sophisticated image. (Photo by Andrea Zani)

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3METTLER TOLEDO Cosmetics, Fragrances, Food Ingredients 4

Important parametersProduct clarity is an important consid-eration in phytocosmetics, and refractive index matching plays a key role in the production of high quality emulsions. As the refractive index of a homogeneous substance is a constant and definite phys-ical property, it can be used to identify a substance, measure its purity and to determine the concentration of one sub-stance dissolved in another. Consistent color is also an essential characteristic for most products, and both density and refractive index play an important role in this, serving as useful quality control parameters for any particular formula-tion. Density determination also allows a manufacturer to comply with fill vol-ume specifications. METTLER TOLEDO’s LiquiPhysics Excellence range, with its capacity to handle a broad variety of dif-ferently textured samples, provides the laboratory with a user friendly, automated means of measuring the density, refrac-tive index and pH of a sample simultane-ously, increasing efficiency through time and cost savings.

Satisfactory solutionDr. Cavalli continued, “Following the ini-tial demonstration, we were able to evalu-ate the instrument in our own laboratory for a month while METTLER TOLEDO carried out staff training. We analyze 20 to 60 samples a day and LiquiPhysics Excellence has been of great benefit to our laboratory. Previously, analysts would have to perform several consecutive mea-surements, but automation enables a se-ries of determinations to be made rapidly,

over a range of temperatures. It has en-abled us to analyze materials with vastly different properties – some quite viscous and others that foam – without the need to change the washing method, provid-ing walk-away operation that frees up the operator to perform other functions. The results are very accurate and the inclu-sion of a facility to discard samples to waste rather than retrieving them has virtually eliminated sample contamina-tion. Additionally, as it is a closed system, it also offers health and safety benefits to the laboratory.”

The modular LiquiPhysics Excellence sys-tem can be easily upgraded as necessary, and if required, LabX™ software can pro-vide laboratories with the connectivity to interface with a LIMS.

METTLER TOLEDO’s automated Liqui-Physics Excellence instruments offer ex-cellent speed, precision and reproducibil-ity, backed up by clear, self-explanatory documentation and are proving a great asset to the laboratory.

Text: Christian Iserland, Manager Business Area Density and Refractometry

www.mt.com/LiquiPhysics

A new era of densityand refractive indexmeters

LiquiPhysics™ provides allthe tools necessary in order toautomate the determination ofthe most relevant parameterswithin the routine quality controlof flavors and fragrances. Oncethe vials are placed on the tray,LiquiPhysics™ Excellence takescare of the rest automatically.

• Density, refractive index,color and pH in ONE samplefor better efficiency.

• Smart codes™ barcodes forsimpler method selection andresult evaluation.

• LabX™ for easy LIMS integra-tion and remote control.

Watch the movie and learn more about the new LiquiPhysics.

Tips & Tricks

www.density.com

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METTLER TOLEDO Cosmetics, Fragrances, Food Ingredients 4

Besides providing accurate mea-

suring results, modern melting

point systems have to incorporate

functions for work process opti-

mization. High sample throughput

leads to an increased amount of

data, which has to be managed

efficiently and remain traceable.

New software for Excellence

Melting Point Systems is now

available which helps to keep

track of melting point data.

Custom-made melting pointsA system consisting of an Excellence Melting Point instrument and LabX 2010 software is the ideal tool for quality control and release testing. It offers full melting point determination user guidance directly at the instrument. Work according to work-flow from the creation of measurement tasks to automatic result report printouts for conformity checks.

Automated production environments gen-erally provide sample lists containing all the relevant data for quality control in an electronic format. LabX can use such data directly to automate the entire QC process-es. Simple search and sort functions make

the administration of users, methods, sys-tem suitability tests, adjustments and re-sults easy. If necessary, the data of several connected instruments can be stored in the same database.

Automatic transfer of result data to LIMS and ERP systems ensures efficient data or-ganization and control.

Regulation compliantAs an option, LabX laboratory software of-fers full compliance to FDA regulation 21 CFR Part 11: audit trails and electronic sig-natures. Version control (for measurement methods) and a free programmable user management are already included in the

Melting Point Data TraceabilityGuaranteed by LabX Software

starter package. Furthermore, measure-ment, test and adjustment reports can be customized.

With LabX 2010 Thermal Values, complex methods, such as mixed melting point, screening and analyses that apply statis-tics over multiple measurements can be generated. A built in reference substance database facilitates the programming of calibration methods.

Text: Matthias Wagner, Product Manager Materials Characterization

www.mt.com/fp


Improve Formulationof Quality Cosmetic Products

The cosmetic industry is being increasingly driven by customers’ aware-

ness of, and desire for, health and beauty products. Excellence Balances

help companies meet the challenges they face, not only to develop new

products, but also to ensure the high quality of their existing goods at

reduced production costs.

Complex formulationsEach health and beauty product has its own unique specifications, limits and consistency, all of which are critical for ensuring a high quality product which meets expectations. Developing the for-mulation of new products is an important application requiring a reliable, accurate balance. Many individual formulations may be created for testing, each one con-sisting of many different components that need to be weighed-in individually. The potential for procedural error is high, which can result in poor quality products and high costs to rectify mistakes. The Excellence Balance Line offers a range of solutions to help meet the requirements of ISO 9001 and Cosmetic GMP.

Meeting the challengeThe Excellence Balance Line is ideal for the creation and manufacture of cosmetic ingredients and products. All Excellence Balances are extremely robust and chemi-cally resistant (e.g. against sulphuric

acid, ammonia and bleach). Fulfilling the International Industry Standard IP54 In-Use, the balances are protected against dust and splashes. Smooth surfaces and round edges also ensure that cleaning is quick and easy. With an intuitive touch-screen display, the balances are easy to operate, and the built-in formulation application helps to maintain the high levels of quality demanded. The unique MonoBlocHighspeed weighing cell guaran-tees the best weighing results with high repeatability.

Text: Daniel Fuchs, Head of Market Management Team

www.mt.com/XP-precision

Know-how

Make the most of your balance with professional accessories

Everyday laboratory routines become easier and quicker with help from simple accessories. Sophisticated applications require special accessories to match specific process needs.

METELR TOLEDO’s accessories are developed with the clear focus of meeting application requirements and/or specific weighing tasks. These helpful options are presented all together in one easy reference booklet.

Download the new Excellence Accessories booklet to see the comprehensive range designed especially for your balance.

www.mt.com/lab-excellence- accessories

The robust XP6002S Precision Balance

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The concentration of surfactants in detergents, cosmetics and lubri-

cants etc. is an important quality criterion. The composition of those

products is constantly improved to cope with increasing performance

demands. Therefore, titration analysis becomes more demanding.

Read on to discover how selected recommendations achieve correct

surfactant titration results.

Good Titration Practice™ in Surfactant Titration

Knowledge of exact sample compositionDetailed sample information is crucial in order to achieve correct results. In par-ticular, the exact chemical composition has to be known in order to select the most suitable titration technique. Furthermore, information on the con-tent of additional components, such as salts, fragrances, alcohol and water is also needed to avoid interferences during

to differentiate between components, such as anionic surfactants and fatty acids.

Properties of surfactantsThe specific properties of surfactants have to be taken into account when performing a surfactant titration. In fact, surfactants are characterized by a distribution of electrical charges within their chemical structure leading to the following proper-ties:

analysis. More specifically, it is neces-sary to verify if different surfactants are present in the sample and whether its pH value is optimum to perform a surfac-tant titration as they can severely affect the analysis.

Sample composition knowledge is nec-essary for deciding whether a suitable sample preparation step is needed, or a pH value adjustment is requested in order


Tips & Tricks

Unique and comprehensive application brochure

More in-depth information can be found in our comprehensive brochure ‘GTP Good Titration Practice™ in Surfactant Titration’, such as:

• Surfactant titration at a glance• Overview of the titration

techniques• Turbidimetric titration• Comparison of different

techniques

Find out more analytical techniques used for surfactant analysis here:

www.mt.com/ gtp-surfactant-brochure

• Cationic surfactant molecules cover a glass surface forming a layer due to the positive electrical charges in their structure. When preparing a fresh ti-trant solution of cationic surfactant Hyamine® 1622, it is recommended to allow for saturation of the glass surface before performing the titer determina-tion.

• Aqueous solutions of surfactants form foams when stirred. Foam contains more surfactant molecules than the solution. Thus, the surfactant con-centration is not homogeneous within the sample solution. This leads to poor accuracy and reproducibility in titration analysis. Due to this reason, strong sample solution stirring must be avoided.

• Surfactants are able to form self-aggre-gates called micelles. As a consequence, the molecules of the micelles are not available for titration. They become available only after the titration of all free surfactant molecules in the sample solution. Therefore, it is recommended to titrate the sample solution at a slow rate.

Broad titration techniquesThere is no general titration method which can be used for all formulations and products. When the sample consists of a single surfactant component (e.g. raw materials), the determination is rather straightforward. In the case of formulated products containing various surfactants and additional components, a specific method with appropriate sample prepara-tion must be chosen.

METTLER TOLEDO offers four solutions for surfactant titration:• Colorimetric two-phase titration (DP5 Phototrode™).• Turbidimetric titration (DP5 Phototrode™).• Potentiometric titration in the aqueous

phase with the DS500 surfactant sensi-tive electrode.

• Potentiometric titration in a mixed organic solvent/water phase with the surfactant sensitive electrode DS800 TwoPhase.

Text: Claudia Keller, Product Management Titration

www.mt.com/gtp

8 METTLER TOLEDO Cosmetics, Fragrances, Food Ingredients 4

One

Clic

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pera

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Many lab instruments require multiple steps to get an analysis or other

processes started. This can be a true hassle especially for routine op-

erations, but also makes it hard to use instruments for infrequent us-

ers. Therefore METTLER TOLEDO has worked with its broad user base to

develop One Click operation: All your routine tasks are executed at the

press of One Click! See how it works…

Refractometer

Karl Fischer Titrator

Simplify Your Daily Routines With One Click™

1

The home screen of the instrument shows all the key tasks of a certain user

4

The “home” button on the instrument brings the user always to the home screen, nobody can get lost in the user interface

3

All the com-mon routines of a user can be a One Click operation – e.g. measure-ment, calibra-tion routines, data evalua-tion, cleaning procedures etc.

2

If a key is pressed, the complete rou-tine is started. No further confirmations and con-figurations are needed: Just One Click.


Karl Fischer Titrator

Excellence Titrator

Analytical Balance

Density Meter

Melting Point

See One Click in action in this short video:

www.mt.com/one-click-titration

Key benefits of One Click operation:

• Easier and faster execution of tasks• Each user sees only the functions/actions he needs• Routine users e.g. in production only see what they need and are not confused by unneeded functionality• Operation mistakes are avoided• SOP are automatically followed• Less training is needed

Most of the METTLER TOLEDO instruments share the same One Click us-

er interface. This means e.g. that once you know using a titrator it’s very

easy to use a density meter or melting point instrument as well.

One common operation interfaceacross all key Lab instruments

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Easy Cleaningfor Clear Results

Focus on more important tasks, minimizing the number of second-ary operations, such as cleaning the balance or the glasses of the draft shield. With NewClassic bal-ances, you can dismantle the com-plete draft shield or just the glasses in a few quick steps, without tools and without moving the balance. The streamlined, ridge-free design of the NewClassic balances facili-

tates cleaning, offering a solution that is both practical and attrac-tive. The robust construction of the NewClassic balances makes them water- and dust-tight (IP54-in-use and IP65, depending on the model). As the housing is resistant to most chemicals, incl. acetone, you don’t have to worry about using the most common cleaning agents.

Quick to dismantleRemove, clean and put back all of the QuickLock draft shield glass panels in just a few simple steps, without tools and without moving the balance.

Chemical-ResistantThe housing of the NewClassic balance is resistant to most chemicals, incl. acetone. The protective cover, supplied as stan-dard, offers protection against stains and scratches.

Dishwasher-safeWash the glass panels of the draft shield easily and conveniently in the dishwasher.

Your benefits


Beautiful objects are often extremely difficult to clean. Not so with the NewClassic balance. All it takes is 20 seconds to remove the glass panels, and a further 10 seconds to completely dismantle the draft shield.Why not try it for yourself?

Dismantled in just a few steps, entirely without tools

www.mt.com/newclassic

www.mt.comFor more information

Mettler-Toledo AGLaboratory DivisionIm LangacherCH-8606 Greifensee, Switzerland

Hints & Tips

Comprehensive Guidefor Day-to-Day Titration Practice

www.mt.com/gtp-PracticeGuide

Simply sign up to receive a free hard copy of the brochure!

What is the most effective way to get the best titration results? METTLER TOLEDO's Hints & Tips brochure, which forms part of the 'Good Titration Practice™', provides information on the parameters that influence the accuracy and repeatability of titration results. It also recommends correct titration practices for secure operation and to maintain quality results.

Content highlights:• Important aspects of general, coulometric and

volumetric titration systems.• Hints and Tips for daily use.• Theoretical description of GTP influencing factors, e.g.

types of errors, reagent handling, how to get the best titration results.

To check your titration result reliability go to: www.mt.com/gtp-riskchecker

cosmetics, fragrances, food ingredients news … and analysis in the laboratory ... toledo was a...

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