cosm-nov-dec-2012
DESCRIPTION
Beauty industry publication focusing on cosmetics, fragrance, and skin care.TRANSCRIPT
LISA RAY’STRIUMPH
INSPIRING CANADA’S BEAUTY EXPERTS
PM 40070230. RETURN UNDELIVERABLE ITEMS TO: COSMETICS CIRCULATION DEPARTMENT, 7TH FLOOR, ONE MT. PLEASANT ROAD, TORONTO ON M4Y 2Y5
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2012 cosmeticsmag.com
Sparkle & Shine
PARTY-READY MAKEUP
THE FINEART OF
FRAGRANCE GIFT-GIVING
(& Good Hair Days Ahead)
LISA RAY’STRIUMPH
INSPIRING CANADA’S BEAUTY EXPERTS
PM 40070230. RETURN UNDELIVERABLE ITEMS TO: COSMETICS CIRCULATION DEPARTMENT, 7TH FLOOR, ONE MT. PLEASANT ROAD, TORONTO ON M4Y 2Y5
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2012cosmeticsmag.com
Sparkle &Shine
PARTY-READY MAKEUP
THE FINEART OF
FRAGRANCE GIFT-GIVING
(& Good Hair Days Ahead)
NOV_COVER.indd 1 12-10-12 12:49 PM
Life is beautiful.Choose your own path to happiness.
T e new fragrance
LANCÔME PRESENTSB
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LAN_12167_CosmeticsAng.indd 1 12-10-01 12:58
Life is beautiful.Choose your own path to happiness.
T e new fragrance
LANCÔME PRESENTS
Bre
ak f
ree
fro
m c
on
ve
nti
on
at
lan
co
me
.ca
doss
ier :
LA
N-1
21
67
clie
nt :
Lan
côm
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ate/
mod
if.ré
dac
tion
rele
ctu
r eD
.A.
épre
uve
à
desc
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: An
non
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PS
mag
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8/0
9/1
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90%
titre
: «
La v
ie e
st b
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»sc
/clie
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info
gra
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publ
icat
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: Cos
met
ics
4c
form
at :
15
,75
" x
10
,75
"in
fogr
aphe
: M
V
35
30
, bou
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-Lau
rent
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400, M
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LAN_12167_CosmeticsAng.indd 1 12-10-01 12:58
dossier : LAN-12165 client : Lancôme date/modif. rédaction relecture D.A. épreuve à
description : Double page Septembre
117/09/12
85%titre : « Eye Luminosity... »
sc/client infographe production couleur(s)publication : Cosmetics - Glow anglais
4cformat : 15,75” x 10,75” infographe : CM
3530, boulevard Saint-Laurent, bureau 400, Montréal (Québec) H2X 2V1 t 514 844-2624 tc 514 844-5041
*Sel
f-as
sess
men
ts -
107 w
omen
- 4
wee
ks.
GÉNIFIQUE EYEwith new LIGHT-PEARLTM
THE SECRET OF YOUTHFUL SKIN IS IN YOUR GENES.
NEW EYE SERUMWITH 360° MASSAGING LIGHT-PEARL
TM
APPLICATOR
Visible results after 4 weeks: 78% of women saw the eye contour was visibly improved.*
More Luminous SmootherDeflate Eye Bags
The new 360° eye contour transformation. Inspired by gene science, Lancôme introduces Génifique Eye Light-PearlTM, the 1st Lancôme eye-illuminating serum, engineered with a unique rotating and massaging applicator to reach even the most inaccessible eye areas. Experience a 360° eye contour transformation above and below, see under-eye bags deflated.
Eye luminosity, the new visible sign of youth.
Discover visibly younger-looking eyes at lancome.ca
ma
xim
e e
ng
lan
d
LAN_12165_Cosmetics_Glow_ANG.indd 1 12-09-24 13:55
dossier : LAN-12165 client : Lancôme date/modif. rédaction relecture D.A. épreuve à
description : Double page Septembre
117/09/12
85%titre : « Eye Luminosity... »
sc/client infographe production couleur(s)publication : Cosmetics - Glow anglais
4cformat : 15,75” x 10,75” infographe : CM
3530, boulevard Saint-Laurent, bureau 400, Montréal (Québec) H2X 2V1 t 514 844-2624 tc 514 844-5041
*Sel
f-as
sess
men
ts -
107 w
omen
- 4
wee
ks.
GÉNIFIQUE EYEwith new LIGHT-PEARLTM
THE SECRET OF YOUTHFUL SKIN IS IN YOUR GENES.
NEW EYE SERUMWITH 360° MASSAGING LIGHT-PEARL
TM
APPLICATOR
Visible results after 4 weeks: 78% of women saw the eye contour was visibly improved.*
More Luminous SmootherDeflate Eye Bags
The new 360° eye contour transformation. Inspired by gene science, Lancôme introduces Génifique Eye Light-PearlTM, the 1st Lancôme eye-illuminating serum, engineered with a unique rotating and massaging applicator to reach even the most inaccessible eye areas. Experience a 360° eye contour transformation above and below, see under-eye bags deflated.
Eye luminosity, the new visible sign of youth.
Discover visibly younger-looking eyes at lancome.ca
ma
xim
e e
ng
lan
d
LAN_12165_Cosmetics_Glow_ANG.indd 1 12-09-24 13:55
6 NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com
PHO
TO: A
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November / December 2012
20
CONTENTS
NEWSBeauty Flash: An interview with Aerin Lauder, Karl Lagerfeld’s new beauty collaboration and moreBeauty Finds: Glamorous holiday makeup Counter Intelligence: Top-selling eye creams
NEW PRODUCTSBeauty Deciphered: The best hair oil for you New Beauty: Best in makeup and skincareNew Scents: Gorgeous new fragrances
EXPERT ADVICEAsk a Doctor: Treating dry skin in the winter Ingredients 101: Decoding ergothioneineHaircare 101: Tips for taming your curls
18 /
20 /22 /
27 /34 /52 /
24 /26 /28 /
THE REGULARSEditor’s Letter Your Say: Thoughts on our last issue Events Calendar & Win ThisPublisher’s Report
BEAUTIFUL PEOPLEBeauty Icon: Julia Roberts and LancômeBeauty Milestone: Thierry Mugler’s Angel Beauty Star: Dick Page of Shiseido Scene: Latest industry events
FEATURE STORIESBeauty School: All about brows Cover Story: Lisa Ray’s courage and beauty Anti-aging Makeup: Expert-approved techniques to keep your makeup looking youthfulHoliday Fragrance: Help your customers fi nd the perfect scent for everybody on their gi� -giving listBeauty Fix: The answers to a bevy of anti-aging eye concerns
10 /14 /68 /70 /
32 /40 /44 /69 /
42 /46 /48 /
58 /
62 /
LISA RAY’STRIUMPH
INSPIRING CANADA’S BEAUTY EXPERTS
PM 40070230. RETURN UNDELIVERABLEITEMS TO: COSMETICS CIRCULATION DEPARTMENT, 7TH FLOOR, ONE MT. PLEASANT ROAD, TORONTO ON M4Y 2Y5
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2012 cosmeticsmag.com
Sparkle & Shine
PARTY-READY MAKEUP
THE FINEART OF FRAGRANCE GIFT-GIVING
(& Good Hair Days Ahead)
LISA RAY’STRIUMPH
INSPIRING CANADA’S BEAUTY EXPERTS
PM 40070230. RETURN UNDELIVERABLEITEMS TO: COSMETICS CIRCULATION DEPARTMENT, 7TH FLOOR, ONE MT. PLEASANT ROAD, TORONTO ON M4Y 2Y5
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2012cosmeticsmag.com
Sparkle &Shine
PARTY-READY MAKEUP
THE FINEART OF FRAGRANCE GIFT-GIVING
(& Good Hair Days Ahead)
NOV_COVER.indd 1
12-10-11 1:00 PM
Cover photo by Colston Julian/
saltmanagement.com.
19
NOV_CONTENTS.indd 6 12-10-11 1:05 PM
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8 september 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com
ISSN Number: 01315-1301
INSPIRING CANADA’S BEAUTY EXPERTS
One Mount Pleasant Road, 8th Floor, Toronto, Ontario, Canada, M4Y 2Y5 Tel: 416.764.1664 / Fax: 416.764.1704 / cosmeticsmag.com
eDITOr-IN-CHIeF Kristen Vinakmens
arT DIreCTOr Lisa de Nikolits
aSSISTaNT eDITOr Jillian Vieira
eDITOrIal INTerNS Christina Ciddio, Daniela Holmes, Emma Jarratt
CONTrIbuTOrS Liz Bruckner, Jill Dunn, Stephen Ferrie, Dr. Frank Lista, Heather Marrin
exeCuTIVe DIreCTOr, COSmeTICS & beauTY GrOuP, PublISHer, COSmeTICS maGaZINe James R. Hicks
NaTIONal aDVerTISING DIreCTOr Donna Howlett donna.howlett @cosmetics.rogers.com
eVeNTS CO-OrDINaTOr Ruth Taylor-Cox
PrODuCTION maNaGer Karen Richards
CIrCulaTION maNaGer Bibi Khan
Vol. 41, No. 6 November/December 2012Cosmetics, established in 1972, is published 6 times per year
by Rogers Publishing Limited, a division of Rogers Media Inc.
Rogers Media Inc., President and CEO: Keith PelleyRogers Publishing Limited, President and CEO: Ken Whyte
Rogers Publishing Limited, Executive Publisher: lorraine HoeflerEditorial Director: Dianne DeFenoyl; Creative Director: Jason logan
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Untitled-1 1 9/28/2012 10:54:02 AM
We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada through the Canada
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return undeliverable items to: Cosmetics Circulation Department,
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NOV_MASTHEAD.indd 8 12-10-09 5:41 PM
www.bourjois.ca
It is essential to take care of your skin during the winter to avoid
having a dull complexion. Your skin will glow thanks to the growing
“Healthy” line from Bourjois Paris!
Nourish your skin with vitamins all winter long!
Radiant ComplexionA
From left to right: Healthy Balance powder, $24; Healthy Mix concealer, $19; Healthy Mix Serum
foundation, $27; and Healthy Mix Touche, $20.
Follow Bourjois Canada
I absolutely adore. . .
...having hydrated and glowing skin. I always begin by
applying the Healthy Mix concealer to cover any blemishes and
imperfections, it gives me a radiant and anti-fatigue result. I
apply the Healthy Mix Serum foundation over top to enhance
the look of my skin thanks to the Serum’s vitamin-enriched
Asian fruit therapy. It provides all of the hydration that my skin
needs. Even better, it is also non-oily and great for my sensitive
skin. I follow up with a sweep of the Healthy Balance powder
along my t-zone to set my foundation and mattify any shiny
areas. My fnal secret to the perfect complexion is the Healthy
Mix Touche. Its easy-to-blend texture is enriched with light-
refecting pigments to give me that extra glow. To fnish my
look, I always add a touch of Bourjois blush or bronzing powder.
Et voilà!
‘‘‘‘
‘‘
Christine MannBeauty Expert,
Bourjois Paris
Christine MannBeauty Expert,
Bourjois Paris
THIS ISSUE’SHIGHLIGHTS
T
HIGHLIGHTSHIGHLIGHTSHIGHLIGHTS
Expert tips for perfect
browsp. 42
10 NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com
PHO
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editor’s letter
he holiday rush: it can be the most exciting (if not stressful!) time of the year. But there’s no question it’s also your busiest time, too, what with the hordes of bewildered teens and hus-bands wandering the beauty depart-ment of your stores in search of the perfect gift for their moms, wives,
grandmothers and daughters. Many of them are probably looking for fragrances, which can be one of the hardest gifts to buy, especially if you don’t know what you’re looking for. So on page 58, in “Common Scents,” we offer up expert tips to help your customer navigate the fragrance section to fi nd the perfect holiday gift. We give suggestions for fragrances that will work as gifts for all members of the family, just in case your client comes in without a clue what to buy. There’s also advice on how to build a fragrance wardrobe based on mood and occasion – perfect for the fragrance connoisseur who can’t wait to add another scent to their collection.
All those holiday parties can take a toll on your complex-ion, especially around the eyes, where late nights out inevi-tably show the next day. On page 62, we’ve got the scoop on the latest products and treatments for every eye ailment, from undereye circles to crow’s feet and puffi ness. And in our anti-aging feature, “Magic in the Makeup” on page 48, we uncover expert tricks to defy age with makeup. They’re tech-niques that work for everyone – regardless of age – to help you look fresh on days when you’re not feeling it.
The biggest news in beauty these days is brows, and as it turns out, well-groomed, perfectly shaped arches are the ultimate key to looking younger. Our guide to getting great eyebrows, “High Brow” on page 42, gives you a step-by-step on achieving the perfect arch, tips for tweezing and groom-ing, as well as highlights some of the best new brow prod-ucts. It still amazes me what a simple brow reshaping can do to one’s face: it’s like a mini makeover!
With the last two issues of Cosmetics, we’ve introduced “Your Say,” a page where we ask for your thoughts on the
issue and the stories inside, as well as what stories you’d like to see in upcoming issues. I also see it as a forum – a place for you to bring up topics and issues that are relevant to you and that will engage your fellow BAs in discussion. Many of you have written great letters already, so keep them com-ing! In each issue, we’ll choose the best letter of the month, and that reader will win a bag of beauty loot. What’s a better incentive than that!?
Wishing you all a safe and happy holiday from the team at Cosmetics!
Yours in beauty,
Kristen VinakmensEditor-in-Chief, Cosmetics [email protected]
Get your glitter on with sparkly makeup p. 20
The art of fragrance gi� -givingp. 58
NOV_EDITOR'SLETTER.indd 10 12-10-11 7:25 AM
AssolutoCosmetics924b.indd 1 9/24/12 5:43 PM
The Bay Beauty Mentor
Marco Mazzuca
AS CANADA’S PREMIERE BEAUTY DESTINATION, The Bay understands the vital role beauty
experts play in the Canadian beauty industry. Their passion, expertise and leadership are a key reason why
customers develop loyalty to our stores. But starting a career in a beauty department can be overwhelming
at times. That’s why we’ve introduced a very special program called THE BAY BEAUTY MENTOR. We’ve
scoured the country in search of the very fi nest beauty experts to share their expertise and advice. If you long to
ask a question to someone who has made a successful career in a Bay beauty department, just send him or
her an email. To learn more about pursuing a career in beauty at The Bay, visit WWW.HBC.COM.
The Bay BEAUTY MENTORTHE BAY, CANADA’S MOST APPRECIATED BEAUTY EXPERTS
Fragrance Advisor, Women’s Fragrance (Representing Coty, Quadrant and Dior) The Bay, Yorkdale // 11 years of beauty experience // Email address: [email protected]
The most memorable client I’ve ever had:
I ONCE HELPED A LADY who seemed to be very impressed with my expertise
on fragrance. Not only did she leave with a bottle, but the next day, she had
written about me on her blog and raved about the service she had received at
The Bay Yorkdale. She told her followers to only buy fragrance from me, because
of the knowledge I had. I still have a copy of the webpage! Feel free to reach out to
me at any time, regardless of the question. Email me at [email protected].
What I tell memployees wfi rst start:
TREAT EVER
MER WITH
AND CARE. Nev
to judge – ever
tant and a potential client.
Listen to their needs and
always ask questions.
don’t be afraid to engage y
customers.
omeone out
he auty industry when
OU DON’T JUST
CE: you
our own busi-
entually develop
t with customers.
Best piece of advice I’ve ever received:
ALWAYS REACH FOR
THE STARS and never
lose your shine.
BM Marco ENG .indd 2-3 12-09-28 1:38 PM
The Bay Beauty Mentor
Marco Mazzuca
AS CANADA’S PREMIERE BEAUTY DESTINATION, The Bay understands the vital role beauty
experts play in the Canadian beauty industry. Their passion, expertise and leadership are a key reason why
customers develop loyalty to our stores. But starting a career in a beauty department can be overwhelming
at times. That’s why we’ve introduced a very special program called THE BAY BEAUTY MENTOR. We’ve
scoured the country in search of the very fi nest beauty experts to share their expertise and advice. If you long to
ask a question to someone who has made a successful career in a Bay beauty department, just send him or
her an email. To learn more about pursuing a career in beauty at The Bay, visit WWW.HBC.COM.
The Bay BEAUTY MENTORTHE BAY, CANADA’S MOST APPRECIATED BEAUTY EXPERTS
Fragrance Advisor, Women’s Fragrance (Representing Coty, Quadrant and Dior) The Bay, Yorkdale // 11 years of beauty experience // Email address: [email protected]
The most memorable client I’ve ever had:
I ONCE HELPED A LADY who seemed to be very impressed with my expertise
on fragrance. Not only did she leave with a bottle, but the next day, she had
written about me on her blog and raved about the service she had received at
The Bay Yorkdale. She told her followers to only buy fragrance from me, because
of the knowledge I had. I still have a copy of the webpage! Feel free to reach out to
me at any time, regardless of the question. Email me at [email protected].
What I tell memployees wfi rst start:
TREAT EVER
MER WITH
AND CARE. Nev
to judge – ever
tant and a potential client.
Listen to their needs and
always ask questions.
don’t be afraid to engage y
customers.
omeone out
he auty industry when
OU DON’T JUST
CE: you
our own busi-
entually develop
t with customers.
Best piece of advice I’ve ever received:
ALWAYS REACH FOR
THE STARS and never
lose your shine.
BM Marco ENG .indd 2-3 12-09-28 1:38 PM
14 NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com
your say
I HAVE TO LET YOU KNOW HOW MUCH I APPRECIATE YOUR magazine. I have been working in the cosmetics industry for more than 20 years and have witnessed so many changes and accomplishments in our great industry. When I found your magazine, it began a love aff air that has never ended! Cosmetics has changed over the years to keep on point with the way we gather our information. Our clients have also evolved and your magazine is always giving us great tips to help us grow, so we can meet their needs. Your editors and contributors really get what it’s like to work on the front lines and you always inspire me to be the best representative I can be, not only for the company that I work for, but as an ambassador for the industry. — Deb Litvenchuk, makeup artist for Lise Watier, Burlington, ON wins a beauty bag fi lled with products from Smashbox and Bourjois.
I JUST WANTED TO TELL YOU HOW MUCH I ENJOYED THE September/October issue, especially the awesome “40 Years of Beauty” section. I thoroughly loved this remarkable, well-researched piece and have fond memories of some of the launches and products featured. In order to go forward, it’s important to know where we’ve been as an industry, so thank you for this fab piece! — Anne Barton, Shoppers Drug Mart, Oshawa, ON
READER OF THE MONTH
Here’s how you responded to our September/October 2012 issue:
Last month, you recognized the ever-changing beauty landscape and took a trip down memory lane in the world of Cosmetics.
WRITE US&WIN!Got something to say? Have a great success story you’d like to share, or saw something you loved (or didn’t) in the magazine? Tell us what you think. Send your feedback to [email protected]. Letters may be edited for length and clarity. If you’re chosen as our Reader of the Month, you could win a beauty bag fi lled with products from Lancôme, including the new fragrance La Vie Est Belle.
EVERY TWO MONTHS WHEN YOUR MAGAZINE
comes to my department, I get super excited! Not only does Cosmetics inform us on everything out there, whether we carry it in our store or not, it has great articles, too. At our location, we have some cashiers that fi ll in if we don’t have a Beauty Advisor available. Cosmetics magazine is a great way to keep them, as well as my part-timers, in the loop. We aren’t always privileged with receiving training from schools, because of availability in our area, so your magazine really fi lls in the gaps. — Stefanie Brown, Shoppers Drug Mart, Winnipeg, MB
I REALLY APPRECIATED YOUR ARTICLE ON
retinol. I have a few customers who often question the need for it in their beauty routines as well as what kind of results it can really provide. Thanks to your article, I am able to pull out Cosmetics and ease their concerns while recommending some products, too. — Tiffany Neigel, Shoppers Drug Mart, Moose Jaw, SK
NOV-YOURSAY.indd 14 12-10-11 12:09 PM
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Shawn’s Training Tips
MAKEUP MEETS
SKINCARE:
MEET YOUR CONCEALER’S NEW BFF!
Introducing the fi rst primer dedicated to the delicate skin under eyes! We’ve taken our signature silky primer texture and infused it with 10 breakthrough benefi ts to address everyday eye woes. Plus, it keeps concealer looking fresh all day.
KEY BENEFITS IN
JUST 8 WEEKS:
37% decrease in appearance of fi ne lines and wrinkles, 28% reduction of dark circles and 21% decrease of puffi ness.
NEW
SMASHBOX PHOTO FINISHMORE THAN PRIMER DARK SPOT CORRECTING
NEW
SMASHBOX PHOTO FINISHH Y D R A T I N GUNDER EYE PRIMER
INSIDER SECRETS REVEALED
Say adios to those puffy peepers with
the Smashbox Hydrating Under Eye
Primer - no eye cream necessary!
Just a dab under each eye instantly
brightens, cools, and preps for a
fl awless concealer application.
Brittany Coleman
SDM #0841
Toronto, Ontario
MORE THAN PRIMER = LESS DARK SPOTS!
Thanks to advanced C-Phyte Complex, this primer instantly brightens and primes to smooth the appearance of fi ne lines and pores, while fading dark spots and acne marks over time. For best results, be sure to use twice a day: under your makeup in the A.M and under your moisturizer in the P.M.
84% of women saw a signifi cant improvementin just 4 weeks!
• Reduces dark spots
• Diminishes acne marks
• Improves radiance
AQUATIC LIFE FORMS, UNITED IN SYNERGY 2
Biotherm biologists have screened and selected 3 powerful aquatic life forms with remarkable characteristics : regenerative blue micro-algae A. f os aquae/Klamath, repairing golden macro-algae L. Ochroleuca, and Pure Thermal Plankton.
A NEW ANTI-AGING POWER IS BORN
This formula, concentrated in extracts of these 3 life forms, reduces the look of wrinkles, dark spots and lack of f rmness. Proven effective on all types of skin.
VISIBLE RESULTS AFTER 4 WEEKS 3
Smoother skin for 94 % of women
More even complexion for 86 % of women
Firmer skin for 82 % of women
Look deeper: www.biotherm.caBIOTHERM EXPERTISE
14 PATENTS 4
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80 % can be visibly reduced.
BLUE THERAPYWRINKLES, DARK SPOTS, FIRMNESS
Reduce the look of up to 8 years of accumulated damage in 4 weeks 1
3198-1_Biotherm_BlueTherapy_DPS_Cosmetics.indd 1 12-09-10 6:49 PM
AQUATIC LIFE FORMS, UNITED IN SYNERGY 2
Biotherm biologists have screened and selected 3 powerful aquatic life forms with remarkable characteristics : regenerative blue micro-algae A. f os aquae/Klamath, repairing golden macro-algae L. Ochroleuca, and Pure Thermal Plankton.
A NEW ANTI-AGING POWER IS BORN
This formula, concentrated in extracts of these 3 life forms, reduces the look of wrinkles, dark spots and lack of f rmness. Proven effective on all types of skin.
VISIBLE RESULTS AFTER 4 WEEKS 3
Smoother skin for 94 % of women
More even complexion for 86 % of women
Firmer skin for 82 % of women
Look deeper: www.biotherm.caBIOTHERM EXPERTISE
14 PATENTS 4
NEW
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Only 20 % of signs of aging are inevitable… 80 % can be visibly reduced.
BLUE THERAPYWRINKLES, DARK SPOTS, FIRMNESS
Reduce the look of up to 8 years of accumulated damage in 4 weeks 1
3198-1_Biotherm_BlueTherapy_DPS_Cosmetics.indd 1 12-09-10 6:49 PM
beauty fl ash
NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com18
all in the familyAussie twin sisters Kim Devin and Zoë Kelly have spilled their family skincare secret across the world and it has its beauty-obsessed Canuck cousin buzzing. Their four-piece product line, including an anti-aging cream, lip balm and post-wax soother, is inspired by the legacy of their late father, Dr. Roebuck, and tackles sensitive, “precious” skin. “We were both born with head to toe eczema and our physician parents couldn’t fi nd any creams on the market to treat it that they liked,” says Kelly. “So they said ‘Let’s make it ourselves.” BPA, paraben and chemical free, the products make use of a small ingredient list comprised of natural, calming components, like vitamin E, rosehip oil and beeswax. The star product? “Pure, defi nitely,” they say in unison of the thick, super-moisturizing cream. “We’ve been
using it for 30 years,” says Devin, “and we swear by it.” One look at the sisters Roebuck’s glowing, makeup-free skin and no convincing is necessary. Available exclusively at Murale for $19 to $60. –Jillian Vieira
SCENTS OF PLACEThrough six tailor-made fragrances, master designer Oscar de la Renta has given the world access to his most intimate memories. Essential Luxuries is a collection of six fragrances: Santo Domingo, Granada, Oriental Lace, Mi Corazón, Sargasso, and Coralina – each one a love song to the muses around the globe that have inspired him. Each fragrance is a variation on a fl oral bouquet. Citrus notes, ginger, honey, almond and a splash of cucumber ensure that each scent is as unique as the memory it is dedicated to. Available at select Holt Renfrew for $150 each. –E.J.
FINE ARTS Little-known fact: Every fashionable creation Karl Lagerfeld designs for Chanel is sketched using Shu Uemura eyeshadows – as can only be expected when you believe that to create art, you must work only with art. The Karl Lagerfeld For Shu Uemura collaboration eyeshadows in Smoky Velvet and Prestigious Bordeaux bear the distinctive fi ngerprints of Lagerfeld. Cases sport the hand-drawn cartoon girl dubbed “Mon Shu” which house powders whimsical and sublime in texture and colour. Rounding out the collection are lip and nail shades, UV Under Base, an eyelash curler and the pièce de resistance: fl ashy, graphic false eyelashes affi xed with mini red sequins.Available for a limited time at Holt Renfrew for $20 to $98. –Emma Jarratt
beautyFLASH
NOV_BEAUTYFLASH.indd 18 12-10-10 12:34 PM
COSMETICSHOTSEAT
PHO
TO: C
OU
RTES
Y O
F A
ERIN
beauty fl ash
As the granddaughter of Estée Lauder, Aerin Lauder is beauty royalty. So it only makes sense that a� er twenty years honing the brand vision at Lauder, she would come up with her own beauty line. Enter AERIN, an edited line of multi-use makeup and seasonal colour collections. Here, Lauder speaks about her new endeavour. C: You infused the products with a lovely fl oral scent. What was the thinking behind that?AL: I loved the idea of fl owers, and fl oral notes are something that have always been a part of me. When I launched Private Collection, the fi rst one was Tuberose Gardenia and that fl ower note is part of the brand. C: Is the line based on your favourite, can’t-live-without products?AL: People were always asking me, ‘What’s inside your makeup bag?’ So I conceptualized this idea of an edited collection because we saw that women today were balancing many diff erent things. We’re launching with seven essential products – [packaged] in a makeup bag that has a beautiful vintage batik pattern.C: Who do you see this line appealing to?AL: It’s not really for an age group – it’s for a state of mind. It’s for someone who wants style and luxury, femininity and modernity, who is interested in fashion, but still loves the idea of edit and focus. The whole idea was eff ortless beauty and style and this makes it very simple. AERIN Essentials Collection , $30 to $165, and Holiday Colour Collection, $34 to $78, available at Holt Renfrew. –Kristen Vinakmens
Aerin Lauder, founder & creative director, AERIN
Shiseido’s symbolic camellia fl ower gets the star treatment in the Camellia Compact to celebrate the brand’s formidable 140 years in the beauty industry. Symbolizing aspiration and modesty, the bloom has been Shiseido’s signature motif since 1915. The compact contains three multi-use shades of blushing powder in Rich Rose, Petal Pink, and Cool Platinum. Wear the velvety hues individually as blush or highlighter, or blend them together for a look that’s as fresh as a camellia. Available for a limited time at the Bay, Sears, Murale, and Shoppers Drug Mart for $38. –E.J.
heat seekerL’Oréal Elnett has been the go-to hairspray for runway and red-carpet hairstylists the world over for decades. Now, the brand has improved upon its iconic ultrafi ne styling mist with L’Oréal Paris Elnett Styling Heat Spray, every woman’s answer to protecting tresses from HTT: Heating Tool Trauma. L’Oréal’s miracle ingredient, Xylose, is activated by heat to protect hair and hold a style in place for up to three days(!). It comes in three different formulas: Straight, Volume and Curls. Available at Shoppers Drug Mart and Rexall Pharmaplus for $10. –E.J.
IN BLOOM
NOV_BEAUTYFLASH.indd 19 12-10-10 3:05 PM
PHO
TOS,
STE
PHEN
FER
RIE
; TEX
T, J
ILLI
AN
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IRA
Nothing says holiday quite like a bit of sparkle. Get your shine fi x with one of these glittery confections
Multidimensional sparkles give life to these statement-making, jewel tone polishes. Illamasqua Nail Varnish Duo in Glitterati, $25; Butter London Nail Lacquer in Fairy Cakes, $17; Essie Nail Lacquer in Leading Lady, $10
This glittery case houses an irridescent copper shadow that’s holiday-appropriate in its own
right. Lancôme Petit Trésor Sparkling Color High Fidelity in Fil D’Argent, $39
NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com
beauty fi nds
Illamasqua Nail Varnish Duo in Glitterati, $25; Butter London Nail
This luxurious shadow adds intensity to any stare. Chanel Regard Signé De Chanel Harmonie du Soir, $68
A gorgeous highlighter and silver sequined pouch? This set tops our gi� -giving (and receiving) list. YSL
Boréal Palette Polar Light, $74
Up the ante with one of these pairs of look-at-me lashes. Dior Grand Bal False Lashes in Gold Crystals, $28; Make Up For Ever Eyelashes, $17
Take the hard work out of getting perfectly symmetrical eyeliner with these fl ashy appliqués. Sephora Collection
Deco Daze Glitter Eyeliner Appliqués, $10 for a pair
Glitz & Glam
This loose, rose gold powder adheres fl awlessly to the eye and
off ers a mother-of-pearl fi nish. Lancôme Les Paillettes Aux Yeux
in À la Belle Étoile, $25
20
NOV_BEAUTYFINDS.indd 20 12-10-09 5:20 PM
Unleash the power of gene science
© 2
01
2 G
rou
pe
Ma
rce
lle
WHO IS GENE YOUTH FOR?
For women of all ages, with aging, stressed or tired-looking skin.
ORSIRTINE™
VENUCEANE™
IDEALIFT™
Key
ingredients
Action
Guardian of tissue longevity. Protects youth proteins involved in cell longevity. Restores the skin’s moisture barrier.
Antioxidant and natural photo protector.
Preserves skin’s elasticity.
WHAT ARE THE KEY INGREDIENTS ?
Redensifies skin, tenses and smoothes wrinkles. HYALURONIC
ACID MICRO
INNOVATION
SERUM CONCENTRATE
GENE YOUTHTM
Target the effects of stress, fatigue and the first signs of aging: SEE UP TO 2X THE RESULTS*
Introducing patented ORSIRTINE™ GL: stimulates the genes responsible for cellular longevity.
*vs. use of GENE YOUTH Day Care alone
PERFUME FREEPARABEN FREE100% TESTED UNDER DERMATOLOGICAL CONTROL
HYPO-ALLERGENIC | MARCELLE.COM|
REVEAL YOUNGER, MORE RADIANT, EVEN-LOOKING SKIN
AVAILABLE NOW
UNIQUE
PRE-DOSED APPLICATOR
GL
22 NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com
counter intelligence
When a tossing-and-turning, sleepless night reads under your eyes, reaching for a tiny pot of eye cream can be the brightening, de-puffi ng miracle you need. Here, a look at the top-selling eye savers across the country. / by Jillian Vieira
EYE SPY
RICHMOND, BC
LETHBRIDGE, AB
WINNIPEG, MB
BRAMPTON, ON
DARTMOUTH, NS
LONDON DRUGS IRONWOOD PLAZA, RICHMOND
StriVectin-SD Eye Concentrate for Wrinkles, $71
“Loved by Hollywood A-listers and consumers alike, our top-selling concentrate is a revved-up wrinkle fi ghter that minimizes the appearance of lines, dark circles and puffi ness for visibly youthful eyes.” — Kristine Cryer, vice president of product development at StriVectin
SEARS LETHBRIDGE
Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Eye, $63
“The cream helps to repair damage caused by daily environmental stresses and protects the sensitive skin around the eye. During the day, apply it before makeup to help diminish the look of dark circles, puffi ness and fi ne lines.” — Derek Miller, Estée Lauder national makeup artist
HOLT RENFREW WINNIPEG
La Mer The Eye Concentrate, $205
“The Eye Concentrate is by far my favourite eye cream. It helps with dark circles and fi ne lines without irritating the eyes.” — Nicki Ledermann, Emmy Award-winning fi lm and television makeup artist
REXALL HURONTARIO/BOVAIRD, BRAMPTON
L’Oréal Paris RevitaLift Double Eye Lift, $28
“The real beauty about this product is that it provides instant results. As soon as you apply, it immediately awakens the eyes and tightens the skin. I love using this product on photo shoots for that exact reason!” — Eddie Malter, L’Oréal Paris offi cial makeup artist
THE BAY, DARTMOUTH
Clinique All About Eyes, $62
“All About Eyes is a fantastic multi-tasking eye product that provides soothing relief and hydration to this delicate area. It’s like giving your eyes a little vacation from everything that irritates them!” — Sara Whittaker, director of education at Clinique Canada
NOV-COUNTERINTEL.indd 22 12-10-09 5:40 PM
INTRODUCING SHISEIDO EXPERT REVIEWS:A PRODUCT TRIAL 140 YEARS IN THE MAKING!
To celebrate our 140th anniversary in 2012, Shiseido will be offering an exclusive opportunity to Canadian beauty consultants through Cosmetics Magazine all year long.
Shiseido trusts your expertise. In each issue, you’ll be invited to write in for your chance to be one of 140 lucky beauty consultants selected to test and review a signature Shiseido product!
NEW GIVEAWAY: SHISEIDO’S SECRET WEAPONS
The key to fl awlessly applied makeup starts with a perfectly prepared canvas. Equip your beauty arsenal with three award-winning Shiseido secret weapons, each designed to make your skin and lashes look better than ever with industry leading technology, innovative formulas and revolutionary ingredients.
#1 SHISEIDO REFINING MAKEUP PRIMER
Apply a pearl on each cheek and blend until perfectly absorbed. This #1 secret will even out skin tone and skin texture. It also helps your foundation last longer and gives your skin a radiant look.
#2 SHISEIDO EYELASH CURLER
Give a natural curl to your lashes with this perfectly designed tool, used prior to the application of your favourite Shiseido Mascara. Press lashes lightly at the roots, in the middle and at the end by twisting your wrist.
#3 SHISEIDO NOURISHING MASCARA BASE
Add unprecedented length and volume to your fl awlessly curled lashes with this cult favourite Nourishing Mascara Base. It provides an elegant, glossy fi nish, repairs your lashes all day long and can be worn on its own, or under your favourite Shiseido Mascara!
HERE ARE SOME TESTIMONIALS FROM THE 6th GIVEAWAY OF THE YEAR!
Shiseido Perfect Refi ning Foundation
“I don’t think I’ve ever tried a foundation and a brush that was so easy to apply well!”
“It blends perfectly into a fl awless fi nish that feels and looks just like your own skin, but even better!”
“I love the luxurious feeling of the foundation. It spreads evenly and has a fl awless fi nish. The brush is awesome, a great way to make sure I get the right amount of coverage and so soft!!”
“I have worked 21 years in the cosmetic dept. store. I have sold every line and tried a lot of products. This Shiseido foundation is by far an amazing product. Flawless coverage and smooth and silky texture gave me the radiant skin I longed for.”
“Would love to be in your next ad, I am 47 years old and would like women my age to look and feel as good as I do using this product!”
Shiseido wants you to experience a new level of perfection in your beauty routine, so we’re inviting 140 beauty consultants to write in to receive all three of Shiseido’s Secret Weapons! To receive your
products, send an e-mail to: [email protected] or fax Cosmetics Magazine at 416-764-1704 and indicate “Shiseido’s Secret Weapons” in the subject line.
24 November 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com
ask a doctor
Q
DRY SPELL
A: When temperatures drop and central heating is cranked up, skin suffers because of the lack of moisture. Cold air means dry air, and electric heating makes things even worse. Low humidity levels deprive the skin’s outer layer – the stratum corneum – of moisture. This outer layer – made up of dead skin cells and natural oils – is responsible for holding and retaining water in the skin. It pulls water from both the external environment and the lower levels of the skin. With a lack of water in the stratum corneum, skin dries out and shrinks, which can lead to cracking, flaking and redness. The cracks permit even more water to escape from the skin, and allow irritating substances and germs to penetrate the underlying living cells.
Q: What factors contribute to skin dryness?A: Along with low humidity levels in the external environ-ment, cold winter winds often rid the skin of remaining moisture. Harsh, drying cleansers and soaps can strip the skin of its lipids and, when used with very hot water, can make your skin quite dry. A failure to exfoliate regularly will keep dry and dead skin cells on the surface of the skin.
Q: What changes should we make to a skincare routine when the weather turns cold?A: Start by using a richer moistur-izer that contains both humectants, such as hyaluronic acid (to draw water from the lower levels of the skin) and occlusives, such as any kind of seed
oil or botanical extract (to help lock moisture in). But mois-turization alone is not enough: you must exfoliate regularly to remove the build-up of dead skin cells. When it comes to cleansing, make sure that you wash your skin with only lukewarm water, as hot water will dry the skin out further.
Q: What do you recommend when it comes to exfoliating?A: Exfoliation is incredibly important in combating dry skin. We recommend that you perform an at-home exfoliation treatment at least once a week. When look-ing for an exfoliating cleanser or scrub, make sure that it contains natural fruit enzymes, such as papaya or apri-cot extract. These enzymes naturally and gently remove dead and dull skin cells as well as clear dirt and debris from pores. In a daily exfoliation regime, look for prod-ucts containing glycolic, salicylic and alpha hydroxy acids. These acids will also help with the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and acne. Retinoids, too, help with exfoliation at the same time as they promote cell turnover.
Q: Are there any lifestyle changes we can make to deal with dry skin?A: Install a humidifier in your home or the room in which you spend the most time, such as your bedroom. Set the humidity level to 30 – this will help your skin retain nor-mal moisture levels. Don’t shower with hot water; only use
lukewarm water and pat your skin dry with a towel afterwards (don’t rub!) Exfoliate regularly within your daily skincare regime, and do a deep exfo-liation treatment once a week with a fruit-based enzyme scrub. Get regular glycolic or salicylic peel treatments, like the Miracle 10 Peel, every three to four weeks.
Dr. Frank Lista gives advice on combating
seasonal dry skin
Dr. Frank Lista, M.D., F.R.C.S.C., plastic surgeon, is the founder and medical director of The Plastic Surgery Clinic (theplasticsur-
geryclinic.com), which has created the Miracle 10 line of clinical anti-aging skincare products. For more info, visit: miracle10.com
What happens to our skin when the weather turns cold?
NOV-ASK_A_DR.indd 24 12-10-09 4:39 PM
DEHYDRATED SKIN?
AQUALIA THERMAL48H Fortifying and Soothing Hydrating Care, even for sensitive skin.
1. I SEEWomen and men of all ages, with symptoms of dehydrated skin: tightness,
fine lines, loss of suppleness and a hydrometer score of less than 40% hydration.
2. I QUESTIONDo you feel your skin tugging on a daily basis or after you take your shower?
Do you feel skin discomforts and tightness?
Does your skin get more sensitive with the exposure during the day of
external aggressions and/or stress?
3. I EXPLAINPollution, climate variations, inappropriate cosmetics and stress increase
skin’s sensitivity and dehydration.
When it lacks water and minerals, skin renews itself less quickly; its
structure becomes disorganized and allows more water to escape.
At the surface, dehydration marks appear. Skin is weakened.
4. I RECOMMENDAQUALIA THERMAL RICH (normal to dry skin)
AQUALIA THERMAL LIGHT (normal to combination skin)
AQUALIA THERMAL AQUA-GEL (combination to oily skin)
AQUALIA THERMAL MINERAL BALM (fragilised skin)
For 48H deep hydration, repairing, fortifying and
soothing even the most sensitive skin.
100% PROVEN EFFICACY
INNOVATIVE FORMULA WITH RENOWNED ACTIVE INGREDIENTS:
Hyaluronic Acid: powerful hydrating molecule, twice as effective as glycerine
Aquabioryl™: patented molecule with remarkable multisensory properties, it
hydrates and protects the skin’s barrier to prevent further dehydration
100% SKIN TOLERANCE
• Enriched with Vichy Thermal Spa Water, containing more than 15 rare
minerals that are soothing, fortifying and regenerating
• Tested under dermatological control and on sensitive skin
• Hypoallergenic, non-comedogenic, paraben-free, non-greasy and non-sticky
• Suitable for all ethnicities and skin types
100% PLEASURE OF USE
Ultra comfortable textures adapted to all types of skin
Choose between
Aqualia Thermal Rich,
Light, Aqua-Gel or
Mineral Balm
26
”“Ergothioneine is found naturally in foods such as oat bran and mushrooms
NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com
How amino acid ergothioneine works to fi ght for your right to beautiful looking skin / by Heather Marrin
DEFENSIVE ACTION
HAVE YOU EVER LOOKED AT THE INGREDIENTS listed on the back of your skincare products and thought to yourself, “If I can’t pronounce it, there is no way I’m putting it on my face.” Well, if that has ever been the case it shouldn’t be with this tongue twister: amino acid ergothio-neine. While the name may sound like something to steer clear of, it is something you likely consume on a daily basis, and for the sake of your skin, it wouldn’t hurt to ingest a little more.
Naturally found in foods such as mushrooms, beans and oat bran, according to Dr. Nadine Pernodet, executive director of skin biology, research & development for Estée Lauder, adding ergothioneine to your skincare routine will help recharge your skin’s energy. A water-soluble amino acid of plant origin, ergothione-ine helps the skin build its natural reserves of vitality and protection by supporting its natural mitochondrial func-tion. While our skin naturally renews its cells, ergothione-ine ensures that skin cells function optimally by increasing the rate that fatty acids (important sources of fuel) are being transferred into the mitochon-dria (skin cell powerhouses). This in turn helps our skin use oxygen more effi ciently to produce more energy. In other words, ergothioneine is a supercharged antioxidant that provides a youth-ful energy that encourages the skin to protect and nourish itself.
While many antioxidants share similar charac-teristics, ergothioneine is unique because it not only naturally targets areas of cellular damage, it can be stored to build up a reserve for future use, explains Pernodet. This becomes impor-tant when skin is under attack by environmental aggressors such as UV rays, pollution, or stress. While we usually get it from various types of foods that we consume daily, Pernodet says the skin needs as much as it can get to help build up
this reserve to ensure the skin stays protected. Fit for any skin type because ergothioneine
works as an integral part of our skin’s natu-ral defense system, it’s especially benefi cial as an anti-infl ammatory or in combating signs of aging. Unlike some ingredients that react with the skin to create results, Pernodot suggests that ergothioneine is used not for its reactive properties, but applied topically to penetrate the surface layers of the skin and build up our natural reserves.
To ensure your skin stays well protected and to maintain enough ergothioneine on reserve to battle your skin’s daily woes, try Estée Lauder’s Re-Nutriv range, as well as products from anti-aging skincare lines such as Cellex-C and Kinerase.
Ergothioneine is unique because it not only naturally targets areas of cellular damage, it can be stored to build up a reserve for future use…
ingredients 101
NOV-INGREDIENTS101.indd 26 12-10-11 12:21 PM
beauty deciphered
Essential oils and plant extracts hold an exotic allure when it comes to beauty treatments, especially in regards to hair. Argan oil, the hair elixir of the moment, has dominated the market and enjoyed a relatively competition-free honeymoon period. But that’s all about to change as the beauty industry widens its net in the hopes of fi nding the next “it” haircare ingredient. Here, we present a guide to the latest hair treatments that boast exotic oils from around the globe.
THE PRODUCT THE PROMISE INGREDIENTS HOW TO USE WHO IT’S FOR
Marc Anthony Repairing Macadamia Oil Treatment, $10
Available at Shoppers Drug Mart
A fortifying formula that revives lacklustre hair by adding and helping retain moisture in the hair sha� and smoothing cuticle damage
Super lightweight macadamia oil that is absorbed quickly into the hair sha� and bamboo extract which contains a protein that helps lock in moisture.
A blend of six fl oral extracts: lotus (to increase follicle longevity), chamomile (to boost shine), tiare (to protect dry hair), dog daisy (to boost and protect vibrancy), rose (to add moisture), and linseed (to nourish).
A mix of six oils: argan (to so� en hair), coconut (to add shine), macadamia nut (for lightweight moisture), sweet almond (to stimulate growth), grapeseed (to encourage regeneration) and Tahitian Monoi extract (for deep conditioning).
Moroccan argan oil, for a vitamin E-infused shine that coats hair to lock in moisture to each strand.
Vitamin E and essential fatty acid-rich argan oil, derived from the fruit of the Moroccan argan tree to help repair damage.
L’Oréal Paris Precious Oils Color Radiance Treatment, $10
Available at Shoppers Drug Mart and Rexall PharmaPlus
Use before styling for protection against heat and a� er to smooth errant strands. The oil leaves no residue while helping to add shine to brittle strands.
Use before shampooing to so� en hair, as a styling aid to protect against heat tools, as a mask for extra nourishment, or as a midday touchup to tame frizz.
Rub a dime-sized amount into palms and run hands through damp hair before styling. Use throughout the day to smooth fl yaways and add shine.
Sleek & Shine can be used in the shower by mixing with your regular conditioning product, before or a� er styling, or as a 15-minute soak pre-shampoo for maximum hydration.
Evenly spread the contents of one ampoule over scalp and hair. Leave on for one to three minutes and then rinse thoroughly; repeat once a week or as needed.
Nourishes and protects colour-treated and highlighted hair, using a UVB protection formula to prevent dulling and fading
So� ens, detangles, and strengthens hair against breakage, reduces frizz, tames fl yaways and adds shine. Also includes a UVA and UVB fi lter to protect against sun and environmental damage
Smoothes, helps repair damage and boosts shine without leaving a greasy residue
Delivers intense moisture and shine and helps to undo hair damage caused from exposure to heat styling tools
The treatment is suitable for all hair types and the bamboo extract, high in silica, helps strengthen tresses.
Colour-treated hair that needs extra moisture and added shine.
All hair types, from fi ne and straight, to coarse and curly.
The treatment is for all hair types but should be used sparingly on thin hair to avoid weighing strands down.
Perfect for all hair types that need a quick pick-me-up and a boost of shine for dull tresses.
Bumble and bumble Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil, $50
Available at Sephora
Garnier Fructis Sleek & Shine Moroccan Argan Oil, $7
Available at Shoppers Drug Mart and Rexall PharmaPlus
Josie Maran Argan Oil Self Heating Hair Treatment, $36
Available at Sephora
Brush up on the latest haircare trend: treatment oils with an abundance of benefi ts/ by Emma Jarratt
SMOOTH MOVES
27cosmeticsmag.com / NOVEMBER 2012
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28 november 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com
haircare 101
cuescurly
Mind Your Length Despite popular belief, curly-haired girls can sport a variety of lengths that’ll suit their finicky texture – from shoulder-length waves to a bouncy bob and even a close-cropped pixie. When going for this type of big chop, pay attention to your hairline if you have finer hair texture. Leaving it soft and slightly wispy will help it to look perfectly grown in. Also, opt for a layered cut, as “a hard line around the neckline or ears gives short, curly hair an aggressive, sometimes masculine look,” he says.
If you’re like most curly-haired beauties, you probably curse your uncooperative, frizzy locks on the regular (read: every morning). Cosmetics spoke with Tony Masciangelo, Canadian editorial stylist for Nexxus, and got his top tips for taming your curly locks into submission. / by Jillian Vieira
continued on page 30
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®Toronto International Film Festival is a registered trademark of Toronto International Film Festival Inc. used under licence by L’Oréal Paris.
*2011 Consumer Usage and Attitude Study at-home haircolour products.
lorealparis.ca © 2012 L’Oréal Canada
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30 NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com
haircare 101
MANAGE Your WaveGood hair starts in the shower, which is why it’s important to invest in a line of strengthening hair products to help reinforce your breakage-prone curls. After shampooing, apply conditioner and comb out any tangles with a large-toothed comb and rinse. When you’re ready to towel off, blot your hair thoroughly, but steer clear of any more brushing as it could cause breakage to damp, weakened hair, says Masciangelo. From here, leave it to dry naturally for a beachy feel or diffuse slowly to fi nish with a more defi ned curl.
KEEP YOUR WASHES To a MinimumNaturally curly hair is drier than other hair types, so stripping it with shampoo adds unnecessary stress to your strands. Besides, “your hair’s natural oils help produce mass at the root, creating more body and leaving the curls chunkier,” he says. Skip the suds at least every second day – you’ll notice a fuller, shinier head of hair.
GET A Go-To Style On a morning when your hair falls limp no matter how many products you use, get yourself a backup plan, namely a foolproof style that’s a cinch to create. Start by loosely gathering all of your hair and securing into a ponytail just below the crown of the head. From there, “twist the ponytail roughly and pin it in place as a mass of disheveled curl,” advises Masciangelo. Top it with a thin, jeweled headband to create a voluminous shape and emphasize your enviable texture.
ACHIEVE Touchable Curls Every curly–haired girl’s goal: defi nition without the crunch of a head doused in product. Masciangelo’s glossy hair how-to involves a combination of an oil-enhanced mousse and a leave-in treatment crème. After raking a dollop of mousse and a quarter-sized amount of treatment crème through wet hair, “twist pieces of hair with your fi ngers and diffuse with a blow-dryer,” he says. When the whole head is dry, gently shake out your hair for a natural, worked-in feel.
FIND A Curly-Haired IdolWhen making an appointment at a salon, or approaching your everyday curly hair routine, fi nd someone whose cut and curls emanate what you’re trying to achieve. Masciangelo’s pick for curly hair done right? Taylor Swift. “She’s really embraced her waves and used them to create a unique brand,” says Masciangelo. Swift’s stellar cut makes use of long layers and a blunt perimeter, which “opens up the option to either let the hair dry naturally or be set in big, glamorous waves,” he says. “Taylor’s hair is age-appropriate, but with a fresh maturity to it.”
WAVE WATCHERS Our product picks for keeping curls in tip-top shape
Marc Anthony Curl Enhancing Styling Foam, $10 Vitamin E and an amino acid complex star in this lightweight, shine-enhancing mousse that gives life and defi nition to curls.
Nexxus ProMend Split End Treatment Daily Shampoo, $10 and Binding Daily Conditioner, $15 This shower duo tackles split ends by binding them together with nourishing ingredients. The result is shiny, healthy-looking curls that stay strong in between cuts.
Sephora Collection Wide Tooth Comb, $5 This indispensible tool for curly hair helps to detangle and smooth without the knotty agony.
Pantene Medium-Thick Hair Solutions 3-Minute Strengthening Ampoules, $6Think of these mini tubes as a curl pick-me-up. The strengthening formula helps repair and resurface the cuticles, while preventing future breakage to the hair.
NOV_HAIRCARE101.indd 30 12-10-09 5:45 PM
New beauty
eastern PromisesPart of the Guerlain holiday colour collection, the LIU Calligraphy Palette takes inspiration from
the 1929 fragrance created by Jacques Guerlain, “an olfactory poem dedicated to femininity.” A tribute to the Asian heroine, Liu, from Puccini’s opera “Turandot,” the fragrance celebrates
passion and true love. Guerlain creative director Olivier Echaudemaison paid homage to Liu in creating the collection, including the star palette, with its attention to detail and cues from the art
of calligraphy and Asian beauty rituals. Guerlain LIU Eyes and Lips Calligraphy Palette, $80, available at selected Guerlain counters
All About Eyes / Fragrance Gift-Giving / Anti-Aging Makeup Tricks
The ShadeSBe holiday-party-ready with two red lip shades (one in carmine and the other a blue-based red), three iridescent eyeshadows in bronze, copper and white, and matte black powder liner that can be used wet or dry.
The BruSheSBrush up on your calligraphy with two high-precision brushes: one for the eyes, featuring a double-foam tip (one rounded for eyeshadow and one pointed for eyeliner) and a second for the lips with soft bristles.
The Packaging
Like a miniature paint box, the black lacquer-
style case features a large
panoramic mirror and is
stamped with a gold Guerlain LIU symbol on
the outside.
31cosmeticsmag.com / november 2012
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32 NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com
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Lancôme La Vie Est Belle Eau de Parfum
WITH ITS NEW FRAGRANCE, LA VIE EST BELLE, Lancôme took on a formidable task: to capture happiness in a bottle. Enlisting Julia Roberts as the scent’s face was certainly a good start. Known for her megawatt smile, Roberts was the perfect choice to evoke the joie de vivre at the heart of La Vie Est Belle (“life is beauti-ful”). As a spokeswoman for the brand for the last two years, the actress was initially mysti-fi ed when Lancôme fi rst approached her. “It always seemed a bit beyond me, like I wasn’t quite as sophisticated or elegant as I think of the Lancôme idea,” says Roberts. “For that, I think about Isabella Rossellini and how elegant and beautiful she is.” But it was Roberts’ down-to-earth modesty and everywoman likeability (not to mention her supermodel looks) that interested Lancôme. “I realized it is more about the everyday person who wants to make an invest-ment in their products and have them work for them,” says Roberts. “But it’s not the thing that rules their morning, [while] trying to get out the door with kids and drive the carpool. It’s a lot more accessible than I realized.”
Which isn’t to say that La Vie Est Belle isn’t luxe; far from it, the scent was three years in the making and went through 5521 versions. Lancôme enlisted three masters of French perfumery, Olivier Polge, Dominique Ropion and Anne Flipo to concoct La Vie Est Belle, which is composed of just 63 ingre-dients, 50% of which are natural (a rare undertaking today). Described as the fi rst ever “tasty iris,” the blossom resonates throughout the scent in the form of the rare Florence Iris Pallida and iris aldehyde. Sambac jasmine, Tunisian orange blossom and Indonesian patchouli illuminate and add depth to the heart, while a sweet facet of vanilla, praline and blackcurrant provide the fragrance’s “smile” and childlike innocence. It’s a radiant fl oral that Rob-erts herself was involved in developing. “All along I
was saying, if they wanted to make a new fragrance that I would represent, I would want to wear it,” she says. “[Lancôme] takes a lot of pride in what they are presenting and they included me in a way that I didn’t expect. They ask for my opinion about things. I just felt part of the creative team a little bit more than I had anticipated.”
Roberts’ soulful beauty resonates throughout the fragrance, particularly in the form of the “smile” which is captured in its bottle. The brand looked through its archives and took inspira-tion from a 1949 bottle design entitled “Le sourire de cristal” (the crystal smile) created by Lancôme artistic director George
Delhomme, which features a smile cut into glass to capture a woman’s joie de vivre. It took more than a year to perfect the new fl açon with the curve of a smile set in the centre of a crystal square. Updated with a modern, feminine aesthetic, the
bottle is adorned with a grey organza rib-bon, symbolizing freedom.
And no one is freer in spirit, it seems, than Roberts herself: “I pretty much put it out there – the true feelings I’m experiencing.” A beautiful life indeed.
BelleDE JOURJulia Roberts lends her exuberant charm to Lancôme’s new fragrance / by Kristen Vinakmens
beauty icon
NOV_BEAUTYICON.indd 32 12-10-11 8:33 AM
Presented By
MAGAZIne
CURRENT COSA SPONSORS
recePtIon sPonsor PrInt sPonsor entertAInMent sPonsor sIMULcAst sPonsor
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C O S M É T I Q U E S
11TH ANNUAL COSMETICS OUTSTANDING SERVICE AWARDS
WE LOOK FORWARD
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Royal York Hotel – Canadian Room, Toronto, Wednesday November 14, 2012.Call 416-764-1671 for info.
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Again!This year the COSA Awards
can be watched live! Just log onto our website at
www.cosmeticsmag.com and watch it live the night of the event.
COSA 2012 Award Ad.indd 1 19/09/12 10:00 AM
by Christina Ciddio
NEW IN STORE:
MAKEUP
GOSH Cosmetics 22 Shade Eyeshadow Palette
WHAT IT IS: An eyeshadow palette with an eclectic range of colours ideal for turning daytime looks into something bold and festive
WHAT’S INCLUDED: 22 shades, from coral and blue, pastel yellow and pink, to smoky browns and neutrals. Designed in a slim case with four mini applicators.
WHO IT’S FOR: Eyeshadow-loving mavens looking for a compact-size palette of colours.
PRICE: $40
Available November exclusively at Shoppers Drug Mart
Bobbi Brown Caviar & Oyster Collection
WHAT IT IS: A classic, girly collection that plays up the eyes for both day and night and emphasizes the lips with high-impact shine
WHAT’S INCLUDED: The Caviar & Oyster fold-out palette off ers a range of textures to dazzle the eyes with eight shadows including shimmering pink, metallic plum and grey as well as a so� pink pearl highlight for the cheeks; fi ve limited edition glosses including so� Pink Oyster and super-glossy Oyster; Black Pearl nail polish completes the look.
PRICE: $21 to $87
Available November at Holt Renfrew and Murale
Anna Sui Holiday Collection
WHAT IT IS: A collection of pink and rose makeup hues for the lips, cheeks and eyes
WHAT’S INCLUDED: A choice of a so� pink or bold set of fuchsia colours stashed in a so� black pouch that includes a cheek and mousse eye colour paired with a lip gloss; an eyeshadow combo of two moisture-rich pearlescent powders; fi ve sparkling bold shades of polish, including navy and gleaming bronze; a shimmer powder with pearl and rose tints to enhance and brighten any skin tone.
PRICE: $15 to $50
Available December at Sears, Murale and select Shoppers Drug Mart
Clarins Collector Face & Eye Quartet Mineral Palettes
WHAT IT IS: A limited edition red-carpet-ready face powder and eyeshadow palette
WHAT’S INCLUDED: The light gold Collector Face Palette, adorned with a design inspired by Ancient Greece, illuminates the skin for an all over radiant complexion; the Eye Quartet Mineral Palette featuring wet-to-dry formula shadows infused with pearl for a stay-all-day metallic fi nish.
PRICE: $42 to $45
Available November at the Bay and Clarins counters
34 NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com
NOV_NEWMAKEUP+SKINCARE.indd 34 12-10-10 3:27 PM
Clé de Peau Limited Edition Palette for Voyage
WHAT IT IS: A compact travel case of sophisticated must-have beauty items that will transport your beauty routine to anywhere you are
WHAT’S INCLUDED: Encased in a navy mini suitcase, the palette comes with an eye colour quad of so� neutral tones and gold sheen to add depth to the eyes; a light pink blush to boost the skin tone; a brown powder duo that can be used as liner or for brows; a mini lengthening, volumizing and curling mascara and a mini rose pink moisturizing lipstick.
WHO IT’S FOR: Glamorous globetrotters looking for a chic, all-in-one palette.
PRICE: $180
Available November at Holt Renfrew and Ogilvy
Guerlain Christmas Colour Collection 2012
WHAT IT IS: A fi erce line-up of bold-shine lip colours and illuminating powders with neutral and shimmery gold shadows inspired by Jacques Guerlain’s 1929 Orient-inspired fragrance, Liu
WHO IT’S FOR: A woman who enjoys Asian myths, art and fashion and craves bold and so� colours for a chic look this holiday.
WHAT’S INCLUDED: LIU palette featuring two red lip colours with three iridescent shadows and a matte black that capture the art of Asian beauty rituals; hydrating lip shines in gold and plum; Météorites WULONG compact embossed with a gold mother-of-pearl rosette of six lustrous and matte shades that add radiance to the complexion.
PRICE: $24 to $200
Available November at select Guerlain counters
YSL Holiday Look 2012
WHAT IT IS: A frosty and daring limited edition collection of Arctic-inspired tones that captivate like the Northern Lights
WHAT’S INCLUDED: Two palettes encased in a silver-sequined pouch that pays homage to vintage Saint Laurent dresses: Boréal Arctic Night, a palette of icy, chromatic blues; Boréal Polar Light, a palette that illuminates the skin; new Faux Cils Shocking Mascara in burgundy; a glacial blue lip emphasizing Golden Gloss; Première Neige lacquer to add a snow-inspired sparkle to any nail colour.
PRO TIPS: For couture-inspired eyes, use the Boréal Palette in Arctic Night: apply the smoky plum shade around the eyes and add frosty blue in the inner corners, or use midnight blue against the upper lash line and smoke it up to below the brow bone.
PRICE: $27 to $74
Available November at Holt Renfrew, the Bay and select Murale and Sephora stores. *The Boréal Palette Polar Light is exclusive to the Bay
Quo Holiday 2012 Collection
WHAT IT IS: A gi� -giving collection of glitzy palettes and makeup sets
WHAT’S INCLUDED: Quo’s Holiday collection has all your bases covered with 13 diff erent palettes with options for face, lips and eyes: the Modesty Collection, a giant chest full of colours, boasts 52 shadows, 18 lip glosses, six portable lip pots, four blush shades, liquid liner and mascara; rounding out the roster are fi ve diff erent makeup brush sets and nail care kits.
PRICE: $3 to $60
Available November exclusively at Shoppers Drug Mart
35cosmeticsmag.com / NOVEMBER 2012
NOV_NEWMAKEUP+SKINCARE.indd 35 12-10-11 10:41 AM
Yves Rocher Ultra-Colours Holiday 2012
WHAT IT IS: A luminous and festive collection of party-going favourites to complete your holiday look
WHAT’S INCLUDED: Kohl duos to line and defi ne the eyes; a mini matte eyeshadow palette to contrast gleaming eye pencils in Indigo and Shimmering Gold; Powder Illuminating Pearls that add radiance to the complexion with chestnut extract; so� textured lip glosses in Sparkling Gold, Pomegranate or Cashmere Pink; chestnut extract-infused Sparkle Cream to add glow to the body.
PRICE: $3 to $14
Available November at Yves Rocher locations
Chanel Éclats du Soir Christmas Collection
WHAT IT IS: A dreamy collection of gold and bronze evening makeup inspired by Chanel’s rouge noir
WHAT’S INCLUDED: The Harmonie Du Soir palette, a mix of plum and rose-hued shadows paired with bronze and gold for a glistening holiday eye look; Stylo Yeux Waterproof eye pencil in Grenat, a burgundy-red with hints of copper; Star Dust blush, to add a touch of pink radiance to the cheeks; the vixenish deep plum-black Rouge Allure Velvet in L’impatiente or the more innocent delicate pink Chanel gloss in Allégorie; bold black-red nail varnish in Malice fi nishes the look.
PRICE: $27 to $68
Available now at Chanel beauty counters
Make Up For Ever Holodiam Collection
WHAT IT IS: A super gradient limited edition shimmer collection of glamorous multi-dimensional powders and gold glitter eyelashes
WHAT’S INCLUDED: Holodiam #2, a berry twist of three tones that add vibrancy to the lids; Holodiam #3, a pearly highlight perfect for emphasizing the brow bone and corners of eyes; Faux Lash falsies with gold shimmer accents to fi nish the look.
PRO TIP: Apply Holodiam powders wet or dry using either a brush, or sponge applicator for an intense shine.
PRICE: $17 to $28
Available November at Sephora and Make Up For Ever boutiques
Le Volume de Chanel Mascara
WHAT IT IS: An intense mascara with a patented “snowfl ake” brush design that uses long bristles to disperse formula, and short bristles to magnify and separate lashes. The precise application leaves lashes bigger, brighter and defi ned with amplifi ed volumizing eff ects
KEY INGREDIENTS: Natural waxes emphasize volume and refi ne texture; natural Acacia gum quickly dries and allows the formula to adhere to lashes, which allows for customizable levels of volume.
PRICE: $36
Available exclusively at the Bay for one month starting November 16; to roll out at all other Chanel beauty counters therea� er
36 NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com
NOV_NEWMAKEUP+SKINCARE.indd 36 12-10-10 3:28 PM
Smashbox Studio Pop Holiday 2012
WHAT IT IS: A glamorous collection of individual eye, cheek and lip sets featuring Smashbox’s biggest hits
WHAT’S INCLUDED: The Studio Pop eye palette, with a range of 16 eyeshadows from frosty white to emerald, four cream liners and a travel-size Full Exposure Mascara; Studio Pop For Eyes Kit comes equipped with eyeliner minis in Graphite, Bronze Citrine, Antique Gold and Imperial to brighten and defi ne eyes; packaged in a keepsake tin, the Glossy Lip Kit features fi ve lip-enhancing glosses; the limited edition Studio Pop Blockbuster Kit includes the best of all worlds from eyes to cheeks.
PRICE: $32 to $68
Available now at Shoppers Drug Mart, Murale and Sephora.*Studio Pop Blockbuster is exclusive to Murale and Shoppers Drug Mart
Essie Winter 2012 Nail Collection
WHAT IT IS: A collection of intense hues for leading ladies everywhere that founder Essie Weingarten describes as “one part Queen Elizabeth and two parts Duchess of Cambridge.”
WHAT’S INCLUDED: Six fun shades including luxurious vermillion, scarlet and cobalt tones with quirky names including the regal red She’s Pampered and the turquoise Where’s My Chauff eur?
PRICE: $10
Available November at drugstores and mass retailers
Clinique Chubby Stick Shadow Tint for Eyes
WHAT IT IS: A portable shadow crayon for the eyes – Clinique’s famous Chubby Stick – that you apply with just a swipe across the lids
WHO IT’S FOR: Those looking for easy, on-the-go application of sheer, long-wearing eyeshadow.
THE BENEFITS: The shadow is buildable throughout the day to transition you into nighttime wear; available in 12 shades from Bountiful Beige, Pink and Plenty, to Lavish Lilac, which you can mix and match to create your own customized look.
PRO TIP: Global colour artist for Clinique, Jenna Menard, suggests applying Lavish Lilac all over the lid with Fuller Fig as a wide liner close to the lashes for a fresh fall-inspired look.
PRICE: $19
Available November at Clinique counters
NOV_NEWMAKEUP+SKINCARE.indd 37 12-10-10 3:30 PM
NEW IN STORE
by Christina Ciddio
SKINCARE Vichy ProEVEN BB Cream SPF 20
WHAT IT IS: A skin-correcting beauty balm with broad-spectrum UV protection that conceals uneven skin tone, adds a fl awless dewy fi nish and reduces the appearance of lines and pores
KEY INGREDIENTS: Vitamins Cg and E fi ght free radicals with their antioxidant properties; hyaluronic acid hydrates and smoothes the skin’s texture;
glycerin nourishes, while a special complex made up of polyglycerins that absorb moisture and oleothicones that lock it in, leave skin plump while allowing it to breathe.
THE BENEFITS: Skin is le� fl awless and refi ned without any heavy residue. This non-comedogenic, hypoallergenic formula is perfect for all skin types and comes in two universal shades for anyone looking to hide imperfections and improve their complexion.
PRICE: $35
Available now at drugstores across Canada
Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Overnight Hydrating Masque
WHAT IT IS: A leave-on mask that hydrates the skin while you sleep, leaving it hydrated and youthful looking, while increasing the skin’s ability to retain water
KEY INGREDIENTS: Ophiopogon Japonicus extract increases hydration; Imperata Cylindrica, a water-retaining plant, balances and hydrates the skin; fragmented hyaluronic acid and glycerin retain moisture in the skin.
THE BENEFITS: The mask instantly boosts hydration in the skin for up to 24 hours and works best when accompanied by Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Moisturizer. Hydrating the skin helps prevent premature signs of aging and minimizes existing lines.
PRICE: $36
Available December at Kiehl’s stores and counters
Skin Authority Resurfacing Accelerator
WHAT IT IS: An exfoliating gel that increases cell turnover to improve skin that is rough, dry and damaged from sun, scarring and acne
WHO IT’S FOR: The Resurfacing Accelerator is ideal for all skin types, especially those who are looking to treat signs of aging such as lines and wrinkles and to improve skin texture and hyperpigmentation.
KEY INGREDIENTS: Glycolic acid exfoliates and reduces sebum; Canadian willowherb extract aids in decreasing infl ammation and irritation while killing acne bacteria; allantoin repairs dehydrated skin while soothing irritated areas.
PRICE: $69
Available now exclusively at Murale
Guerlain Orchidée Impériale White New Generation
WHAT IT IS: A brightening serum formulated with white orchid extract to tackle hyperpigmentation and signs of aging
THE BENEFITS: This soothing serum smoothes wrinkles and fi ne lines, leaving the skin transparent and youthful without irritating sensitive complexions.
KEY INGREDIENTS: White orchid extract boosts cellular activity, targets pigmentation, reduces fl aws and soothes while regenerating and hydrating the skin.
PRICE: $505
Available November at select Guerlain counters
38 NOVEMBER / cosmeticsmag.com
NOV_NEWMAKEUP+SKINCARE.indd 38 12-10-10 3:31 PM
39cosmeticsmag.com / NOVEMBER 2012
Fresh Seaberry Moisturizing Face Oil
WHAT IT IS: Omega-rich healing oil that quickly absorbs and nourishes dehydrated skin, leaving a youthful and glowing appearance
KEY INGREDIENTS: Antioxidant cranberry seed oil smoothes and maintains elasticity, while grapeseed oil soothes; sweet almond oil restores the skin; camellia seed oil, rich in omega fatty acids, smoothes skin; and seaberry oil, rich in omegas 3, 6, 7 and 9 protect against free radical damage and improve elasticity and texture while boosting the skin’s healing process.
THE BENEFITS: Two drops applied under your moisturizer helps balance skin hydration levels. Used for generations as a natural cure for eczema, burns and dry skin, seaberry is Fresh co-founder Lev Glazman’s skin saviour; a� er diligently using the salve on a severe burn caused by boiling water when he was two years old, his skin is now scar-free.
PRICE: $58
Available now exclusively at Sephora stores
Dermalogica AGE Smart Multivitamin Power Serum
WHAT IT IS: An antioxidant-rich serum that fi ghts signs of aging, reduces hyperpigmentation and smoothes the skin
KEY INGREDIENTS: Hydroxypinacolone retinoate is a form of vitamin A that is non-irritating to the skin and fi ghts early signs of aging while stimulating the production of collagen; polymitoyl hexapeptide-14 stimulates collagen production, which rejuvenates and plumps the skin.
THE BENEFITS: Vitamins A, C and E enhance skin cell turnover and combat signs of aging such as fi ne lines and rough texture.
PRICE: $88
Available December at select spas and salons
Clinique Repairwear Uplifting Firming Cream SPF 15
WHAT IT IS: A broad-spectrum UVA/UVB day cream that fi rms, re-texturizes and protects the skin
WHO IT’S FOR: Designed for those with premature signs of aging, rough skin texture and loss of elasticity.
KEY INGREDIENTS: Mitostime strengthens the skin and energizes tired cells; commipheroline is a molecule that plumps the skin; botanical extracts such as whey protein boost natural collagen and elastin production; ergothioneine is an amino acid that works with vitamins C and E to protect skin against environmental damage.
PRICE: $71
Available now at all Clinique counters
Nuxe Crème Fraîche de Beauté Collection
WHAT IT IS: A line created to soothe and hydrate sensitive skin that is prone to itchiness, redness and dehydration
KEY INGREDIENTS: Eight plant milks, glycerin and salicornia help retain water in the epidermis, which increases skin moisture and leaves it hydrated all day; almond and orange white fl owers, aloe vera sap and allantoin, an anti-infl ammatory, so� en and smooth the skin.
WHAT’S INCLUDED: Three skin-specifi c moisturizing creams: a light version for oily/combination skin that uses rice grain powder to mattify; Suractivée that plumps and so� ens normal skin; Enrichie, designed for dry skin, is infused with vitamins, fatty acids and nourishing macadamia nut oil. Also included: a mask that refreshes sensitive skin and a serum that instantly hydrates and smoothes and can be used in the eye contour area.
PRICE: $29 to $43
Available now at the Bay, Shoppers Drug Mart, Murale, Ogilvy and Pharma Plus.
NOV_NEWMAKEUP+SKINCARE.indd 39 12-10-10 3:31 PM
THING
40 NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com
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THINGTHINGTHINGTHINGAs the iconic Angel fragrance celebrates twenty years, Cosmetics catches up with its elusive visionary, Thierry Mugler/ by Kristen Vinakmens
beauty milestone
WHEN THIERRY MUGLER’S ANGEL CAME ON THE SCENE in 1992, it caused a stir of epic proportions in the fragrance world. Inspired by Mugler’s fascination with the cosmos and funfairs fi lled with cotton candy, the then-fashion designer sought to distill joyful childhood memories in scent form. The result was a fragrance that was good enough to eat: a patchouli-soaked blend of bergamot, vanilla, chocolate, praline and red berries, which launched a new olfactory category: the oriental gourmand. Perfumer Olivier Cresp created more than 600 versions over the course of a year to get the heady-sweet, blue-tinted fragrance just right. The biggest technological feat was packaging the scent in a never-before-seen, star-shaped bottle, and a� er two years and many iterations later, the glass-maker Verrieres Brosse realized Mugler’s shining emblem. Today, Angel remains a continual best-seller, while being as divisive as ever – you either love it or hate it. Here, the mysteri-ous Mr. Mugler speaks about Angel’s enduring legacy.
C: Did you ever imagine Angel would be so successful?TM: My wish was to create a fragrance that moved beyond all trends, a classic that would write a new chapter in a univer-sal and timeless story. [To create] a fragrance with a person-ality rather than an ephemeral designer fragrance.
C: Angel went through many versions. Why was it so important that it be absolutely perfect?TM: The fi nal olfactory result had to be well balanced (after tries with many different accords) and perfectly suit what I had in mind: Angel fragrance is inspired by my childhood memories, as well as celestial and glamorous images.
C: Did you know that Angel would be so divisive? TM: Any time I launch a new fragrance, some love it and some hate it! But no one is indifferent to it. The ones who love it rapidly become totally addicted to it, [creating] a unique relationship between the brand and its users. C: What would you like to do next, fragrance-wise? TM: Fragrances that move us, [that are] true emotional shocks for the senses, that bring something unknown and astonishing to the world of smells. Nothing can be revealed at the moment, but I am still very much involved in the develop-ment of my fragrances.
C: How do you defi ne the Mugler philosophy of beauty? TM: I always favour the expressiveness of a face over the perfection of facial features. With a certain theatricality, a focus on play, on setting the stage, the possibility of being someone else and transforming to suit your fancies.
C: Who is the “Angel woman”?TM: Angel is personifi ed by a bewitching woman, extremely feminine, sensual and carnal, like the fragrance itself. Part-angel, part-demon, this woman is characterized by a blend of strength and fragility. She is a mysterious and fascinating heroine, a seductress who attracts with her mystery.
Cosmic
In the fi rst ad campaign for Angel, supermodel Estelle Lefébure was photographed standing on the edge of a Manhattan skyscraper.
To commemorate Angel’s 20th anniversary, Clarins released a limited edition “Precious Star” bottle showered in silver sequins and stamped with the Mugler anniversary logo. Precious Star, 25mL, $96, is available at the Bay, Ogilvy, Holt Renfrew, Murale and Shoppers Drug Mart.
NOV_BEAUTYMILESTONE.indd 40 12-10-11 12:12 PM
Vendor
SponSorS CELEBRATING THE 2012 MEN’S AND WOMEN’S
FRAGRANCE LAUNCHES OF THE YEAR
AWARD CATEGORIES1. Best Niche Launch – Men’s or Women’s – under 10 stores
2. Best Luxe Launch – Women’s – 10 – 50 Stores
3. Best Luxe Launch – Men’s – 10 – 50 Stores
4. Best Limited Launch – Women’s – 50 – 250 Stores
5. Best Limited Launch – Men’s – 50 – 250 Stores
6. Best Full Market Launch – Women’s – over 250 Stores
7. Best Full Market Launch – Men’s – over 250 Stores
8. Best Private Label/Direct Sell Launch – Men’s or Women’s
9. Best Print Media Editorial – Canadian Magazine/Newspapers
10. Best Broadcast Media Editorial – Television and Web
11. Hall of Fame Award – Women’s
12. Hall of Fame Award – Men’s
13. Lifetime Achievement Award
14. Best Scent – Judge’s Choice
15. Consumer’s Choice Award
If you launched a new fragrance in 2012 and would like to nominate it
for the Canadian Fragrance Awards, please contact
Jillian Vieira at 416-764-2498
An official nomination binder will be sent to your attention
Nominations will be accepted in December 2012
Next Year’s Event:
Thursday April 25, 2013 – Marriott Chateau Champlain Hotel, Montreal, Quebec.
C O S M É T I Q U E S
MEDIA SPONSORS
RETAIL SPONSORS
SPONSORS
TM|MC
CFA 2013 Categories.indd 1 27/08/12 3:06 PM
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browTransform your arches with these top tools, products and pro tips / by Jill Dunn
The arch arsenalTo establish the best brow blueprint, you need the right tools:
• SciSSorSFirst, use straight edge scissors to trim errant long hairs. “Brush your brows straight up with a spoolie brush or clean mascara wand and carefully snip any hairs that extend beyond the brow perimeter,” says Ashley Manias, national education director for Benefit Cosmetics. “Straight-edged scissors give the most accurate trim – curved blades aren’t as precise,” she adds.
• TweezerS“Slant tip tweezers grip the hair and pull it out whole rather than breaking it off,” says Manias. A sharp, pinpoint tweezer is also a must for reaching ingrown hairs or really short, stubborn hairs. Stainless steel tweezers are the smartest choice because they can be sanitized more read-ily than enamel-covered blades.
• Brow powder and/or a Brow pencilAs a general rule with brow colour, if you’re blond or redheaded, your eyebrows should be one shade darker than your hair colour. If you have dark hair, your eye-brows should be one shade lighter (or if you have grey hairs creeping in, a soft taupe colour will help disguise them). When you fill in your brows, think about sketching, not drawing. Use short, feather-like strokes – nothing too heavy-handed. “This will make it look like individual hairs,” says Manias. Use a small, stiff and angled brow brush to work powder into the brows. Some prefer pencil – use it extra sharp to be able to draw in fine hairs that look the most realistic. And powders and pencils should always be matte – avoid sparkles or shimmer, as they look unrealistic.
• a clear Brow gel or waxThis will help set the look. If you have really unruly or curly brows, a wax is the way to go. Use sparingly to avoid flaking.
Brows are Big news this season: Chanel bedazzled theirs with a shield of sequins and pearls while Prada bleached models’ arches beyond the pale. these extreme brows may not be for every day, but there’s one thing for sure: whether on the runway or in real life, brows are commanding more attention than ever. indeed, the right brow shape can make you look fresher, more expressive and younger (it’s like a mini facelift!)
high
Backstage at the chanel Fall 2012 runway show.
42 november 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com
beauty school
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MASTER YOUR SHAPE“Brows are like a story: they should have a defi ned beginning, middle and end,” says Manias. The most desirable, youthful brows are full (there are even eyebrow hair transplants now available for those that have skimpy brows). “I recommend a profes-sional shaping every four to six weeks, and daily tweezing, if at all possible, to stay on top of strays,” the pro adds.
To determine where your brow begins and ends, hold a makeup brush vertically alongside your nose. Where it intersects with the inner corner of your brow, that’s where the brow should begin. Next, keep the base of the brush at your nostril and tilt it to a 45-degree angle to cross the outer part of the pupil – that’s where the arch should be. “Finally, angle it from your nostril toward the temple – this is where your eyebrow should end,” Manias explains.
Your face shape also plays a part. “Brows should be proportional to your features and offset your face shape,” says Manias. For instance, if you have a long face, avoid super high arches and stick to thick, more modest arches. To balance a round face, brows should be elongated to give the illu-sion of a heart-shape. If your face is square, brows should have a softer, more rounded arch.
To pluck with purpose, never look down – this can warp your perspective. “Stare straight ahead into a mirror, and step back to assess your shape after every few hairs to ensure you’re not over-doing it,” says Manias. Another tip: the tail of the brow should never be lower than the beginning of the brow. “This can make the eyes appear droopy,” she says.
TOP GROOMING GUIDELINESTo get a painless pluck, opt to tweeze when hair is softest and most pliable, like right after a warm shower. “The steam in the shower opens up hair follicles, so brow hairs slide out,” the pro adds. Also, unless you’re an expert with tweezers, only pluck underneath and between brows. “Tweez-ing on top can make the arch look stunted,” says Manias. Tweeze one hair at a time to avoid over-plucking. Post-waxing, threading or tweezing, treat the area with a mild exfoliating lotion or toner that contains salicylic or glycolic acid. “Tweezing, wax-ing and threading open up pores and can leave them susceptible to bacteria that cause breakouts. This step will alleviate this,” says Manias. Don’t ever tweeze or wax sunburned skin and if you use drugs or skin creams, like retinoids, that make skin hypersensitive, be extra cautious when you wax, thread or tweeze.
BESTin brow
The best new products to get you groomed
Sephora Double-Ended Tweezer, $24. A two-in-one tweezer – one side
slanted, the other, pointy – helps ensure no hair
gets le� behind.
Lancôme Modèle Sourcils Brow Groomer,
$27. This subtly tinted gel is a perfect fi nishing
touch – just one swipe keeps everything tidy.
Quo Limited Edition Pretty Fierce Eyebrow Palette, $10. With two
powder shadows to defi ne brows and a wax to set, this is a really aff ordable all-in-one brow kit. The wax is on the slick
side, so a little goes a long way.
Make Up For Ever Aqua Brow Waterproof Eyebrow Corrector, $22. This gel-like formula requires a stiff angled brush to whittle the colour into brows.
Sephora Collection Eyebrow Editor Complete Brow Kit, $23. Two powders defi ne, while the wax tames wayward hairs. Mini-tools like tweezers, a spoolie brush and an angled brush are included for touch-ups on the go.
Tarte EmphasEYES Waterproof Amazonian Clay Brow
Mousse, $36. If you have oilier skin, the
clay-based mousse texture is great because it minimizes oil
around the hair follicle to keep colour intact.
43cosmeticsmag.com / NOVEMBER 2012
beauty school
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44 november 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com
At first glAnce, with his fAce full of facial hair and penchant for wearing plaid shirts, you might mistake Dick Page for a lumberjack. But don’t let his outdoorsy look deceive you: this British makeup virtuoso known for his painterly approach to beauty is one of the leading makeup artists in the world. growing up in Bristol, england, Page channeled his creativity into drawing and writing. But it wasn’t until he relocated to london in the late 1980s, and started doing his friends’ makeup for parties and clubs, that the industry’s top talents, including photographers corinne Day and David sims, took notice. Magazine editorial jobs soon followed, and Page steadily rose the ranks, becoming in demand by top designers Michael Kors and Marc Jacobs to create innovative makeup looks for their runways. he became a regular contributor to Allure, Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar magazines and in 2007, Page was named shiseido’s artistic director for makeup. leading the brand’s vision for colour, Page dreams up new products and seasonal makeup collections. here, Page speaks about his inspirations, favourite faces and his vision for shiseido.
Portrait of the ArtistDick Page, artistic director for Shiseido Makeup / by Kristen Vinakmens
Who are your favourite faces to work on?The models Alana Zimmer, Raquel Zimmermann and Sui He among oth-ers, actresses like Isabella Rossellini and Catherine Zeta-Jones; I’m drawn to the faces themselves of course, but also their energy, intelligence and sense of self.
How has your interest in photography and taking photographs influenced your approach to colour and makeup?It’s the concrete result of looking all the time, staying curious and engaged that feeds my colour work, sometimes in a direct way, sometimes a simple, even abstract idea of colour. It could be something I see in the city, on a beach or in the forest.
What inspires you?Everything! I try to be receptive to what’s around me and often seek out certain pictures in galleries. I enjoy learning about photography, film and architecture. Also, anytime I travel somewhere new, it opens up all kinds of visual experiences.
What are your makeup must-haves in your kit?The Shiseido Luminizing Satin Face Colours, Shimmering Cream Eye Colours and all the lipsticks, of course.
What is your take on makeup trends?They’re the season’s end result of grouping various things together: red lips here, peach blush there, mathematics basically. I’m afraid I find the idea of trends reductive. It’s fun to see different takes on various styles, but luckily my work is temporary. That’s part of the fun; makeup is new and personal every time you apply it.
What is your favourite runway beauty look ever?That’s a tough one. Maybe from one of the Helmut Lang shows in Paris in the nineties: A clean face with a dark eye of a deep bottle green, nude-rose lips and fingernails painted with Wite-Out. Simple and very chic.
You’ve worked with some of the most influential designers and photogra-phers in the business. What have these experiences taught you?I learned the importance of collaboration, being part of a team, and how
NOV-BEAUTY_STAR.indd 44 12-10-11 7:48 AM
45cosmeticsmag.com / NOVEMBER 2012
Find the best colour and texture match for foundation and concealer so you can be sure of a good result under any condition – airplane bathroom light for instance!
Put together a basic makeup “wardrobe” of tried and trusted items and update them as you need to with a few fun items to keep things interesting.
Enjoy your makeup. O� en it’s just part of the daily routine, but don’t lose sight of the opportunities to play and accessorize with colour.
PAGE’S TOP 3 MAKEUP TIPS
The highly-pigmented Shiseido Perfect Rouge Lipstick off ers a long-wearing, hydrating formula and is available in 25 shades, from bright fuchsia to subtle nude and cranberry red.
Apply Shiseido Shimmering Cream Eye Colour with your fi ngertips for a radiant, lustrous fi nish that lasts for 16 hours. The hydrating formula goes on smooth and comes in a rainbow of hues.
Shiseido Luminizing Satin Face Color is available in six shades, from pink orchid blush to shimmery gold highlighter, providing multi-dimensional cheek colour that lasts all day.
1 2 3
Dick’s Makeup MUST-HAVES
to help present the story of clothes using makeup. Most importantly, makeup is only as good as its context; everything and everyone needs to pull together.
What would be your dream beauty product that you’d love to create?I’m working on it!
Where do you want to take Shiseido The Makeup, in terms of products and colour, in the next few years?I want to keep expanding the colour options and types of products we can offer to the customer whilst always keeping a healthy dose of sur-prise, and even fantasy, in the mix.
What advice would you give someone who is just starting out in the beauty business?Work hard, be professional, punctual, kind and reliable. Practice until your technique is second nature and then you’ll be free to create. Tech-nique can be learned, but you develop a style by being honest with your-self about what you love and what you can bring to whichever fi eld of beauty you fi nd yourself in.
beauty star
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46 november 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com
cover story
Pantene Beautiful Lengths ambassadress Lisa Ray on a joyful new chapter in her life
/ by Kristen Vinakmens
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yt’s been a good year for Lisa Ray. The Canadian actress just married the love of her life, received the Facing Cancer Together Award of Honour from Look Good Feel Better and was named ambas-sadress for Pantene Beautiful Lengths. A cancer survivor herself – she was diagnosed with multi-ple myeloma in 2009 and is currently in remission – the collaboration seemed a perfect one for Ray.
A partnership with the Canadian Cancer Society, Beautiful Lengths started in 2008 and encourages Canadians to grow
and donate their hair to create wigs for women undergoing treatment for cancer.
“It addresses something that I’ve personally experienced on an intimate basis: Losing your hair, losing your sense of identity and having your self-esteem compromised at a time that you need it boosted more than anything else,” says Ray, who starred in the Oscar-nominated film, Water. “If you feel good and [have] a positive outlook, I believe that healing will follow from there. It isn’t necessarily strictly about van-ity; it’s about self esteem, it’s a symbol of hope, and I really
I
ofRay
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47
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cosmeticsmag.com / NOVEMBER 2012
believe that it can ultimately help the healing process for women with cancer.”
The Beautiful Lengths program has received more than 40,000 hair donations from men, women and children across Canada to date. Further, one dollar from every pur-chase of a Pantene Beautiful Lengths product goes to the Canadian Cancer Society. “This campaign is so exciting and effective because it gives people a way of unlocking their ability to take action; I like to say it gives Canadians a way to make a tangible difference,” says Ray.
When Ray was battling cancer, she couldn’t afford to buy a real-hair wig, which can cost into the thousands of dollars. As someone who has spent most of her life in the spotlight, both as a model and internationally-known actress, her cancer diagnosis and its subsequent effects on her appear-ance were a defi nite blow. “I used TIFF in 2009 to announce my cancer and go public and I ended up walking the red car-pet when I was in the middle of my treatment,” says Ray. “I was bloated on steroids, my hair was just starting to fall out and it was not easy. As a woman, it’s facing your deep-est fears. Also as a Southeast Asian woman, our sense of beauty is completely tied up with our hair.” But the impact on her looks was sometimes the least of her worries in deal-ing with cancer. “You’re facing huge transitions, challenges and changes at that time, not the least of which is also fi nan-cial constraints,” she says. “When you’re undergoing treat-ment, you can’t work, and you’re not entirely sure when you’re going to be able to work again. And in my experience, you also want to put on a brave face and a persona of nor-malcy for the people around you. It isn’t always just about the cancer patient.”
Today, Ray is in remission, or, as she calls it “the new nor-mal” since hers is an incurable form of cancer. As she under-goes constant monitoring and drug therapy to manage the disease, “it’s somewhere in the periphery for me in terms of my awareness and the way that it’s informed my life,” says Ray. “A large part of it has been about this ability to use perspective to reframe experiences and that’s been one of the biggest learning curves. I reframed my entire life through that experience and it was painful on some days, while on other days you had to laugh. On some days I had great insight, so it’s not easy to just paint it with the same brush.”
But things are looking up for the starlet, who has gotten
back into acting and has optioned a novel, The Tiger’s Claw, that she’d like to co-produce into a fi lm. Add to that her duties as host of Top Chef Canada, and work on writing a book, and she’s one busy lady. For Ray, “fi nding joy was part of my healing process. It’s about tapping into the lighter side of life and just having fun and not taking myself or anything too seriously, but really working from a place of passion.”
Two things she’s also passionate about: advocacy for stem-cell research (Ray herself underwent a stem-cell trans-plant that put her in remission) and fundraising efforts for research into multiple myeloma, for which she established the fi rst research chair at Princess Margaret Hospital in Toronto. “There’s still a great determination to keep press-ing forward towards a cure and towards fundraising,” says Ray. “I’m in the process of also working on establishing my own foundation, which will have interests in raising money for the Princess Margaret Hospital and for a few causes in India as well.”
And now that her hair has grown back (albeit after an extremely rough in-between stage in which she chose to wear a wig), she’s relishing in it. “Every woman loves her hair. I like my makeup too, and I don’t make any apologies for it,” she says. “I enjoy enhancing myself in every way possible, and I just turned 40 this year, so I’m also very proud of that.” She credits Beautiful Lengths products with giving her naturally thick hair more body and also ensures she gets enough sleep to keep her skin looking great. SPF and red lipstick are also on her list of beauty staples. “My red lipstick – sometimes that’s what gets me through when I don’t have time to put on a full face of makeup and I’m going to an event,” says Ray. “A great slash of vibrant red lips, pull my hair back and wear something fabulous, and I’m ready to go.” Words to live by. “Finding joy was part of my
healing process. It’s about tapping into the lighter side of life and just having fun and not taking myself too seriously...
Pantene Pro-V Beautiful Lengths line helps strengthen hair against breakage and split ends, so hair can grow long and lush. The collection includes a strengthening shampoo, conditioner, two-in-one shampoo and conditioner, strengthening therapy mask and strengthen and smooth fi nishing crème. Like Pantene Canada on Facebook and Pantene will donate $1 for every Like to the Canadian Cancer Society.
GO A LONG WAY
DID YOU KNOW? It takes eight ponytails to create one Pantene Beautiful Lengths real-hair wig.
”NOV_COVERSTORY.indd 47 12-10-11 2:56 PM
48
FACEAce your base. “For a youthful glow and radiant complexion, look for foun-dations that include the word ‘illumi-nate’ in the name,” says Sarah Lucero, Stila celebrity makeup artist. “These products refl ect light and make skin look brighter and younger. They add a lift to your complexion rather than lay fl at on skin, which can look heavy and aging on older skin.”
COSMETICS PICKS: Stila Illuminating Foundation, $50; Rimmel Lasting Finish 25HR Wear Foundation, $10
TIP: Always apply moisturizer before
foundation for a fresher look
IN THEMagic
MakeupTurn back the clock with age-defying makeup tricks for face, eyes and lips that will make your customers look years younger / by Kristen Vinakmens
Prep the skin. Before you even reach for foundation or concealer, ensure skin is thoroughly cleansed and hydrated, says Vanessa Jarman, Rimmel Canada’s offi cial makeup artist. “Keeping your skin moisturized is the fi rst step to a fresh, young appearance.” Moistur-izer can help plump and even brighten the skin.
COSMETICS PICKS: Philosophy Purity Made Simple Cleanser, $26; Clinique Moisture Surge Extended Thirst Relief, $59
NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com
anti-aging makeup
NOV_ANTIAGING.indd 48 12-10-11 7:35 AM
49cosmeticsmag.com / NOVEMBER 2012
CHEEKS
cosmeticsmag.com
anti-aging makeup
Less is more. Only apply foundation and concealer where needed, says Jarman. “A foundation applied too heavily will age the appearance of skin once it starts to settle into fi ne lines.” She recommends mixing foundation with moisturizer to cre-ate a light base, and to always start with foundation fi rst. “Lightly build layers of foundation; this way, it looks natural, like its part of your skin,” says Lucero, who likes to use a foundation brush to buff the product into skin. Apply concealer after foundation, and again, only where needed, such as underneath the eyes or to cover sun or aging spots. “The idea behind makeup should be about highlighting your natural beauty, not masking it,” says Jarman.
COSMETICS PICKS: CoverGirl & Olay Simply Ageless Concealer, $15; Shiseido Foundation Brush, $33
Tread lightly with powder. “The number one product that tends to age any woman is heavy powder,” says Jarman, since, when applied too heavily, it can erase your natural glow and seep into fi ne lines and wrinkles. Apply powder lightly using a small blush or powder brush and only to key areas, such as around the nose and forehead, where oil tends to surface. That said, a little bit of oil isn’t necessarily a bad thing, says Jarman: “When your skin is slightly oily, it looks dewy and provides a beautiful glow.”
COSMETICS PICKS: Smashbox Face & Body Brush #19, $68; Bobbi Brown Sheer Finish Pressed Powder, $42
Choose your blush medium. Lucero recommends cream blushes for the most fresh-faced fl ush. “[Creams are] best for tinting your cheeks naturally,” she says. “They melt into your skin and look like they belong on your face, like it’s part of you.” Cream blush can also be a good option for more mature skin types, as it’s more moisturizing than powder. But whatever your medium, be sure to avoid heavy frost in your blush, as it can bring attention to large pores or uneven skin texture, says Lucero.
COSMETICS PICKS: Stila Convertible Color in Gerbera, $33; Revlon Cream Blush in Rosy Glow, $12
Colour is key. Choose fresh pink and coral shades of blush, which help to create a young glow. Not only are they universally fl attering, they mimic the naturally fl ushed look you get from taking a walk on a brisk day. Avoid blush in brown or earth tones, says Jarman, as they can look harsh and dated.
COSMETICS PICKS: Rimmel Lasting Finish Blendable Powder Blush in Pink Rose, $6; Nars Blush in Deep Throat, $32
Precise placement. Proper blush application can mystify even the most beauty-savvy. Jarman recommends smiling, rather than sucking in your cheeks, to help ace your placement. “Apply your blush close to the apples to your cheeks, but slightly above and behind to give the effect of fullness to the face,” she says. Jarman prefers to use a small to medium-sized blush brush for meticulous application. And apply sparingly so you can build the colour as needed: “If you apply too much blush, it can look overwhelming or like a rash,” says Jarman.
COSMETICS PICKS: Quo Professional Blush Brush, $40
TIP: A small to medium-sized blush brush gives you greater application control.
TIP: Opt for peachy-pink blush shades that are light on shimmer.
TIP: A light dusting of powder in the T-zone
is all that’s needed.
TIP: Cream blushes are great for drier, more mature skin types.
TIP: Use a foundation brush to buff your base into the skin.
TIP: Dab on concealer a� er your foundation and only where you need it.
NOV_ANTIAGING.indd 49 12-10-11 7:36 AM
50
“EYES & BROWS
LIPS
”
anti-aging makeup
TIP: Choose shadow one to two shades lighter than your hair colour to fi ll in brows.
Line and fi ll. If using a lipstick, especially a bold shade such as orange or red, line the lips and fi ll them in entirely before applying lipstick over top. This way, says Jarman, “you don’t have to be concerned about bleeding, or your lipstick running thin.” This is especially key for mature women, who may be concerned about lines around the mouth.
COSMETICS PICKS: CoverGirl LipPerfection Lipliner in Passion, $11; MAC Lipstick in Russian Red, $18
Colour Match. “Playing up the lips is a great way to brighten any face,” says Jarman. Again, as with cheeks, pink and coral shades look the most youthful, so whether you’re a gloss or lipstick fan, stick to lipcolours in those colour families. Avoid nude shades which can make the complexion look dull, and steer clear of too-dark lipcolours, which can look harsh and emphasize lips that may have thinned with age. “Enhance and bring out your favourite features and you will always look beauti-ful,” says Lucero.
COSMETICS PICKS: Clarins Jolie Rouge in Petal Pink, $27; Maybelline ColorSensational Lipstick in Coral Crush, $10
TIP: Fresh pink and coral lip colours look the most youthful.
Forgo the frost. Jarman says more mature women should avoid eyeshadows with too much sparkle or shimmer, since “they tend to look dated and highlight fi ne lines on and around the eye area.” She suggests opting for more matte fi nishes which suit all women and don’t emphasize troublesome areas. But, she says, don’t be afraid to choose shadows with a bit of sheen or satin fi nish. “Add a bit of sheen to your eyelid and then go into your crease with a more matte shadow to fi nish the eye off. It’s a beautiful and appropriate way to create dimension and elegance.”
Lighten up. Your best bet when it comes to eyeshadow shades? Stick to creams, soft pinks, light greys or taupes to brighten the eye area, says Jarman. If you prefer to wear darker shades, the makeup artist recommends steering clear of dark pink or purple shades (which tend to bring out tired-ness in the eye area) and applying your shadows before your foundation, so you can clean up any fallen product. “Bright under-eyes make the biggest difference when it comes to clean and fresh makeup.” When it comes to liner, think soft, rather than hard, precise lines that can look too harsh. Lucero suggests lining eyes with a light eyeshadow to defi ne and enhance the eyes. “Think of sketching and shading, not drawing a hard line.”
COSMETICS PICKS: Make Up For Ever Matte Eyeshadow in Bisque, $23; MAC Eyeshadow in Shroom, $18
Arch support. Whether they’re overplucked or lack shape, sparse, poorly groomed brows can age the face. Jarman rec-ommends avoiding pencils to fi ll in brows and opting instead for shadow that’s one or two shades lighter than your natural haircolour. “Penciled-on brows look harsh, usually too dark in colour and stand out too much – in a weird way,” she says. Work with what you have, says Jarman, by softly fi lling in any sparse areas rather than trying to overdraw the shape. “Make slight adjustments to your shape where needed, but try not to draw outside the lines too much.”
COSMETICS PICKS: Benefi t Cosmetics Brow Zings in Medium, $35; Anastasia Mini Duo Angled Spooley Brush #7, $2
“Penciled-on brows look harsh, usually too dark in colour and stand out too much,” says Vanessa Jarman, Rimmel Canada offi cial makeup artist.
TIP: When wearing bright lip shades such
as red, line lips fi rst for staying power.
TIP: Stay on the bright side by choos-ing eyshadows in cream and so� pink shades.
NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com
NOV_ANTIAGING.indd 50 12-10-11 2:54 PM
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52 NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com
Chloé Bianca Solid Perfume Necklace A vibrant rose fl oral solid for her
NOTES: Top: Peony, springtime freesia and lycheeHeart: Rose, magnolia and lily of the valleyBase: Amber and cedarwood
FAST FACTS: This fashion accessory captures the classic scent of Chloé in a solid perfume housed in a blush-toned enameled locket affi xed to a delicate necklace. The faces of Chloé perfume embody the youthful and seductive Chloé woman: Imogen Poots, famous for her role in V for Vendetta and French model Camille Rowe-Pourcheresse, who’s been photographed by Karl Lagerfeld and Paolo Roversi, among others.
Eau de Parfum Solid: $75
Available now at Sears and Holt Renfrew
Beyoncé Midnight HeatA sensual fruity-fl oral for her
Balenciaga FlorabotanicaA sensory fl oral creation for her
NOTES:Top: Dragonfruit, starfruit and Armenian plumHeart: Purple mokara orchid, black tulip and peonyBase: Warm amber, patchouli and sandalwood
FAST FACTS: Midnight Heat is Beyoncé’s third fragrance since her debut launch in 2009, Heat. The print ad campaign was shot in New York City at the swanky Standard Hotel by renowned photographer Terry Richardson and features Beyoncé in a one-shoulder House of Deréon dress.
Eau de Parfum: 30ml, $39; 50ml, $59
Available now at Sears and drugstores across Canada
NOTES: A mysterious blend of vetiver, amber and caladum-leaf accords mixed with the freshness of rose, carnation and mint
FAST FACTS:Florabotanica is a magical and imaginative fragrance inspired by Nicolas Ghesquière’s tale of an 18th century botanical garden fi lled with exotic and rare plants that capture the mystery of fl owers and their potential to be dangerous. The tale speaks of an enchanting, mysterious young girl who Ghesquière imagined as Kristen Stewart. The actress embodies the beauty of Florabotanica with her edgy yet feminine demeanour.
Eau de Parfum: 30ml, $63; 50ml, $90; 100ml, $115
Available now at the Bay, Holt Renfrew, Murale, Shoppers Drug Mart, Ogilvy and Sephora. *30ml exclusively available at Shoppers Drug Mart
FRAGRANCEby Christina Ciddio & Emma Jarratt
NEW IN STORE
Perfume NecklaceA vibrant rose fl oral solid for her
NOTES: Top: Peony, springtime freesia and lycheeHeart: Rose, magnolia and lily of the valleyBase: Amber and cedarwood
FAST FACTS: This fashion accessory captures the classic scent of Chloé in a solid perfume housed in a blush-toned enameled
Chloé Bianca Solid Perfume Necklace
Beyoncé Midnight HeatA sensual fruity-fl oral for her
NOTES: Dragonfruit, starfruit and Armenian
Heart: Purple mokara orchid, black tulip and peony
Warm amber, patchouli and
Balenciaga FlorabotanicaA sensory fl oral creation for her
NOTES: A mysterious blend of vetiver, amber and caladum-leaf accords mixed with the freshness of rose, carnation and mint
FAST FACTS:Florabotanica is a magical and imaginative fragrance inspired by Nicolas Ghesquière’s tale of an 18th
NOV-NEW_SCENTS.indd 52 12-10-11 2:59 PM
NEW IN STORE fragrance
53cosmeticsmag.com / NOVEMBER 2012
Tom Ford NoirA spicy-oriental sensual fragrance for him
Dolce & Gabbana Pour Femme A passionate scent for her
NOTES: Top: Neroli, raspberry and tart green mandarinHeart: Jasmine and orange blossomBase: Vanilla and cream sandalwood
FAST FACTS: The so� pink-hued juice is housed in a sleek glass bottle topped with a solid crimson and gold cap. French model Laetitia Casta shows off her Mediterranean sex appeal in the fairytale romance ad campaign shot by renowned photographer Mario Testino. The backdrop of the “romantic dream” takes place in a small southern Italian village with the sounds of “Città Vuota” by Mina playing in the background.
Eau de Parfum: 25ml, $82; 50ml, $95; 100ml, $121Body Lotion: 200ml, $59
Available now exclusively at the Bay; December at Holt Renfrew, Sephora, Murale, Shoppers Drug Mart and Sears
NOTES:Top: Italian bergamot, verbena, caraway, baie rose and violet fl owerHeart: Madagascar black pepper and nutmegBase: Amber, patchouli oil and vetiver oil
FAST FACTS:Designed in a smoky black bottle with ribbed sides, the rectangular shape has a “T” embossed on one side and an “F” on the other. Tom Ford currently has fi ve private blend and six signature fragrances available in his beauty collection.
Eau de Parfum: 50ml, $105
Available now at Holt Renfrew
Marchesa Parfum D’Extase A light fl oral-fresh scent for her
NOTES:Top: Iris, freesia and young violet leavesHeart: Night-blooming jasmineBase: Iris root, ambrox and musk
FAST FACTS:This is fashion house Marchesa’s fi rst fragrance and it is in collaboration with Sephora. The bottle was designed in collaboration with Vanessa Stevens + Company creative director, Malin Ericson. It features exotic raw quartz crystal that exudes the feminine elements of the Marchesa line.
Eau de Parfum: 30ml, $72; 50ml, $102 Rollerball: $30
Available now exclusively at Sephora
Marchesa Parfum D’ExtaseA light fl oral-fresh scent for her
NOTES:Top: Iris, freesia and young violet leavesHeart: Night-blooming jasmineBase: Iris root, ambrox and musk
FAST FACTS:This is fashion house Marchesa’s fi rst fragrance and it is in collaboration with Sephora. The bottle was designed in
Tom Ford NoirA spicy-oriental sensual fragrance for him
NOTES:Italian bergamot, verbena, caraway,
baie rose and violet fl owerHeart: Madagascar black pepper and nutmegBase: Amber, patchouli oil and vetiver oil
FAST FACTS:Designed in a smoky black bottle with
Dolce & Gabbana Pour FemmeA passionate scent for her
NOTES: Neroli, raspberry and tart green
mandarinJasmine and orange blossom
Vanilla and cream sandalwood
FAST FACTS: The so� pink-hued juice is housed in a sleek glass bottle topped with a solid crimson and gold cap. French model Laetitia Casta shows off her
NOV-NEW_SCENTS.indd 53 12-10-10 9:31 AM
NEW IN STORE fragrance
54 NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com
Biotherm Water Lovers Collection Les Eaux A selection of travel-sized body sprays for her
Eau Océane: Fresh aquatic fl oralEau Pure: Aromatic sage and lime essential oilsEau Vitaminée: Citrus blend of orange and pink grapefruitEau D’Énergie: Stimulating citrus mix featuring lemon and jasmineEau de Paradis: Musky mix of red fruits including pomegranate, black currant and raspberry
FAST FACTS:One dollar from every Les Eaux purchase will support Biotherm’s eff orts with Mission Blue, a charity that strives to protect Antarctica’s Ross Sea, one of the last few pristine water ecosystems le� in the world, which is home to 40 unique species. The packaging boasts whimsical, retro-inspired sea creature designs created by Swedish illustrator Ingela Peterson Arrhnenius.
Eau de Toilette: 20ml, $15
Available now at Biotherm counters
HiM byHanae Mori A woodsy musk fragrance for him
CREED Acqua Fiorentina: The EncoreA fl oral and fruity pairing in a jubilee fragrance for her
NOTES: Top: Oils of bergamot, mandarin oranges, grey pepper, violet leaves and cardamom seedsHeart: Cinnamon bark, Mediterranean fi g wood and Tonka essenceBase: Teak, white cedar, fi r balsam, musk and amber
FAST FACTS:The fragrance was offi cially presented to His Imperial Majesty, the Emperor of Japan (thus inspiring the name HiM), and is the fi rst new Hanae Mori men’s fragrance in 15 years. The scent is inspired by the masculine elements of nature, refi ned to complement a tailored suit or the best cut blue jeans.
Eau de Toilette: 50ml, $60
Available now at Holt Renfrew
NOTES:Top: Greengage plum, Diamond Jubilee apples and pruneauHeart: Renaissance roses, white carnations, Florentine pear, Sicilian bergamot and Calabrian lemonsBase: Virginia cedar, Indian sandalwood and white grapefruit
FAST FACTS:CREED was inspired by the Royal Diamond Jubilee year. It is re-released as the original Acqua Fiorentina with the addition of Jubilee apple top notes to the fragrance. Formerly unavailable in the U.S., Acqua Fiorentina is the fi rst CREED fragrance released directly from Oliver Creed in Paris to America.
Eau de Parfum: 75ml, $275
Available now at Holt Renfrew
Biotherm Water Lovers Collection Les EauxA selection of travel-sized body sprays for her
Biotherm Water Lovers Collection Les EauxA selection of travel-sized body sprays for her
Biotherm Water Lovers Collection Les EauxA selection of travel-sized body sprays for her
Biotherm Water Lovers Collection
A selection of travel-sized body sprays for her
Biotherm Water Lovers Collection Les EauxA selection of travel-sized body sprays for her
Biotherm Water Lovers Collection
A selection of travel-sized body
Biotherm Water Lovers Collection
A selection of travel-sized body
CREED Acqua Fiorentina: The EncoreA fl oral and fruity pairing in a jubilee fragrance for her
NOTES: Greengage plum, Diamond Jubilee
apples and pruneau
HiM byHanae Mori A woodsy musk fragrance
Oils of bergamot, mandarin oranges, grey pepper, violet leaves and cardamom
NOV-NEW_SCENTS.indd 54 12-10-10 9:41 AM
NEW IN STORE fragrance
55cosmeticsmag.com / NOVEMBER 2012
Boss Nuit pour FemmeA sexy little black fragrance for her
Philosophy Living GraceA live-in-the-moment fragrance for her
NOTES:Top: Fresh neroliHeart: Lily of the valleyBase: Warm musk
FAST FACTS:With fresh, clean notes, Living Grace strives to bring balance to a woman’s lifestyle and keep her centred. The fragrance is a sensory experience that creates upli� ing feelings of vibrancy, well-being, and clarity.
Spray Fragrance: 15ml, $20; 60ml, $55
Available now at the Bay, Sephora and Shoppers Drug Mart. *15 ml exclusively available at Sephora
NOTES:Top: White peach and aldehydic accordHeart: Jasmine, white fl owers and violetBase: Moss, warm wood and sandalwood
FAST FACTS:The fragrance is inspired by the timeless elegance of the little black dress and the confi dence that comes from always being perfectly put together. Boss Nuit pour Femme was launched to complement the BOSS Black Womenswear Collection. Gwyneth Paltrow was chosen as the face of the fragrance, because she embodies all the characteristics of a strong, confi dent and successful woman.
Eau de Parfum: 30ml, $60; 50ml, $77; 75ml, $98; Shower Gel: 200ml, $21; Body Lotion: 200ml, $54; Deodorant: 150ml, $41
Available December at the Bay and February at Sephora, Holt Renfrew and Sears
Shiseido Zen Secret Bloom Eau de Parfum IntenseA mysterious Oriental fragrance for her
NOTES:Top: Pink pepper, mandarin, blue rose, grapefruit and bergamotHeart: Jasmine absolute, freesia, gardenia, Chinese rose and lotus fl owerBase: Patchouli, musk, black vanilla, Tonka bean, sandalwood and vetiver
FAST FACTS:The unique package design plays with light and line, creating infi nity, depth and mystery to complement the Zen fragrance. Shiseido created the limited edition Eau de Parfum Intense to celebrate its 140th anniversary.
Eau de Parfum: 50ml, $68
Available now at the Bay, Shoppers Drug Mart, Sears, Jean Coutu, Murale, London Drugs and Ogilvy
Shiseido Zen Secret Bloom Eau de Parfum IntenseA mysterious Oriental fragrance for her
Boss Nuit pour FemmeA sexy little black fragrance for her
White peach and aldehydic accordJasmine, white fl owers and violet
Moss, warm wood and sandalwood
Philosophy Living GraceA live-in-the-moment fragrance for her
NOTES:
NOV-NEW_SCENTS.indd 55 12-10-10 9:41 AM
NEW IN STORE fragrance
56 NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com
Calvin Klein EncounterA seductive and intriguing fragrance for him
Hermès L’Ambre des MerveillesA sultry amber fragrance for her
NOTES:Top: Mandarin, cardamom and rumHeart: Pepper, Egyptian jasmine, patchouli and cognacBase: Agarwood, atlas cedarwood and musk
FAST FACTS:The fragrance is intended to evoke unapologetic masculinity. Encounter is inspired by the idea of tension and desire and is played out in a fi lm-noir style ad campaign starring Alexander Skarsgård and Lara Stone.
Eau de Toilette: 50ml, $67; 100ml, $87; A� ershave Lotion: 200ml, $65; Hair and Body Wash: 200ml, $34; Deodorant: 75g, $28
Available now at the Bay, Sears, Murale, Shoppers Drug Mart, Jean Coutu, and Sephora
NOTES: A mysterious blend of oak, balsam of Peru, tears of Siam, amber accord, elemi, bitter orange and Indonesian pepper
FAST FACTS:Amber is one of the oldest stones found in the world, created from a resin that hardens slowly over time and is o� en found encasing fossils and prehistoric insects. L’Ambre comes in the “wobble-bottle” fi rst used in the original Merveilles series. A wide ring of gold circles the bottle’s circumference, creating a magnifying glass eff ect.
Pure Perfume: 50ml, $120; 100ml, $165
Available now online at Hermes.com
Swarovski EditionA glamour-fi lled fruity-fl oral for her
NOTES:Top: Clementine and redcurrant jellyHeart: Rose and gardeniaBase: White musk and cedarwood
FAST FACTS:Swarovski Edition is a rare, limited edition scent; the bottle is intended to become a collector’s item a� er the fragrance has been used. The bottle and scent were inspired by the red carpet at Cannes where Swarovski has dressed and accessorized celebrities for years.
Eau de Toilette: 50ml, $76
Available now at the Bay
Calvin Klein EncounterA seductive and intriguing fragrance for him
NOTES:Mandarin, cardamom and rum: Pepper, Egyptian jasmine,
patchouli and cognac Agarwood, atlas cedarwood and
Hermès L’Ambre des MerveillesA sultry amber fragrance for her
NOTES: A mysterious blend of oak, balsam of Peru, tears of Siam, amber accord, elemi, bitter orange and Indonesian pepper
Swarovski EditionA glamour-fi lled fruity-fl oral for her
NOTES: Clementine and redcurrant jelly
Heart: Rose and gardenia White musk and cedarwood
FAST FACTS:Swarovski Edition is a rare, limited edition scent; the bottle is intended to become a collector’s item a� er the fragrance has been used. The bottle and scent were inspired by the red carpet at Cannes where Swarovski has dressed and accessorized celebrities for years.
Eau de Toilette: 50ml, $76
Swarovski
NOV-NEW_SCENTS.indd 56 12-10-10 9:43 AM
NEW IN STORE fragrance
57cosmeticsmag.com / NOVEMBER 2012
NOTES:Top: Bitter orange and bigaradeHeart: Sambac jasmineBase: Honey vanilla
FAST FACTS:A limited edition take on the original Armani Code housed in a sleek collector’s item bottle adorned with tiny Swarovski crystals. While the fragrance follows the traditional hierarchy of top, heart and base notes, addictive orange blossom infuses the scent throughout.
Eau de Parfum: 75ml, $120
Available now at the Bay
Giorgio Armani Code Couture EditionA seductive fragrance for him
Vince CamutoA sensual, fl oral chypre for her
NOTES: Tuberose, vetiver, bergamot, benzoin and patchouli
FAST FACTS:So Elixir Purple is intended to tap into the wearer’s power of seduction through combining intoxicating and magnetic scents. Heady tuberose evokes femininity and glamour, vetiver adds warmth, while patchouli gives a nod to the original So Elixir.
Eau de Parfum: 50ml, $59; Bath and Shower Gel: 200ml, $20; Body Lotion: 200ml, $25
Available now at all Yves Rocher stores
Yves Rocher So Elixir PurpleAn intoxicating woody fl oral for her
NOTES: Top: Osmanthus nectarHeart: Bulgarian white rose, Tuscan leather and night-blooming jasmineBase: Patchouli, skin musk, vanilla and warm amber
FAST FACTS:This is the fi rst fragrance from New York-based fashion footwear and lifestyle designer Vince Camuto. The Camuto family crest in delicate gold surrounds the cap, which is set atop a red-ribboned medallion on the façade of the faceted bottle.
Eau de Parfum: 50ml, $72; 100ml, $92
Available now at the Bay
NOTES: Tuberose, vetiver, bergamot, benzoin and patchouli
FAST FACTS:
Yves Rocher So Elixir PurpleAn intoxicating woody fl oral for her
Bitter orange and bigarade Sambac jasmine
Honey vanilla
Giorgio Armani Code Couture EditionA seductive fragrance for him
Vince CamutoA sensual, fl oral chypre for her
NOTES: Osmanthus nectar
Heart: Bulgarian white rose, Tuscan leather and night-blooming jasmine
NOV-NEW_SCENTS.indd 57 12-10-10 9:43 AM
58 november 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com
holiday fragrance
Choosing fragranCe as a gift Can be a triCky undertaking: on one hand, what scent aficionado wouldn’t love unwrapping a beautiful bottle of their favourite perfume or cologne during a gift exchange? on the other, if you choose the wrong scent, it’s likely to go unworn, collecting dust on a bureau for years to come.
so how can customers select something so based on individual preferences for those near and dear? Patty Cooper, national education manager for LVMh fragrance brands, and Marian bendeth, global fragrance expert and owner of toronto-based sixth scents, offer this expert advice for helping purchasers navigate the fragrance floor.
CommonScents
A how-to guide for helping customers master the art of fragrance gifting / by Liz Bruckner
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holiday fragrance
Massages, socks and scarves are well and good, but when customers are after something luxurious, long-lasting and specifi c to their loved one, help direct them with these fragrance selecting tips.
FOR MOM: Consider encouraging your gifter to dabble with a spritz that’s slightly out of the box. Bright and warm notes of jasmine, mandarin or bergamot can prove to be very uplifting, while raspberry, fi g leaves and caramel convey a feminine, playful effect.Try: Dior Pure Poison Eau de Parfum or Thierry Mugler Womanity Eau de Parfum
FOR DAD: Classics are almost always a safe bet for dads, so choose scents that are fresh and masculine. Look for fragrances with woodsy, rich notes set off by cool cardamom, rosemary or even patchouli.Try: Dolce & Gabbana The One Sport Eau de Toilette or Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Eau de Toilette
FOR GRANDMA: The only thing Grandma would love more than real fl owers is a fragrance that gently evokes their scent. Direct customers to bottles with the ageless aromas of freesia, amber or violet, or consider introducing a subtly scented fragrance with rich notes of fl ower honey, tactile woods or amber.Try: Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Jasminora Eau de Toilette or Givenchy Amarige Eau de Toilette
FOR A TEENAGE SON/DAUGHTER: By far the most adventurous group, teens are much more likely to try fragrances on a whim, especially when they’re backed by some of their favourite celebs. Scents worn by actors or sports stars are likely to go over well for boys, while sweet, bubble gum-esque fragrances created by pop stars and young actresses are a hit with girls. Try: Lacoste Eau de Lacoste L.12.12 Eau de Toilette or Taylor Swift Wonderstruck Enchanted Eau de Parfum
FRAGRANCEPut personal preferences asideSince scent preference is such an intensely personal decision, it’s paramount that gifters tune out their own impressions of scents. “It’s so important to remember that you should never buy for someone something you would wear yourself,” says Bendeth. Your best bet: Encourage shoppers to make note of the fragrances their recipient already wears, and to use that as a starting point in the search for the perfect scent.
Know their scent typeRegardless of what fragrance camp the gift recipient gravitates towards (musky, fl oral, fruity, etc.), when in doubt, encourage customers to stay within that same category and opt for scents with similar notes. Is he or she still waffl ing? Consider suggesting a sampler box – offered by many major perfumery houses – which comes complete with multiple vials of trial-size scents.
Think outside the boxIf a customer divulges that their recipient prefers a minimalistic approach to fragrance, a perfume’s lighter and brighter sister formula could be their best option. Steer them toward an eau de toilette for a slightly less concentrated scent, or in the direction of eau de cologne, eau fraiche or even scented body washes for a much more subdued aroma.
Bet on a winnerWith the exception of a few anomalies, bestselling fragrances are often crowd-pleasers for good reason. Should the recipient be a fragrance newbie without a preferred perfume, consider suggesting scents that continually garner mass praise. Chances are good that one of these options will result in a fragrant hit.
Look to prestige brandsWhen in doubt about scents, encourage your customer to pay attention to their recipient’s fashion sense, says Cooper. “If someone is a fan of an established luxury brand but can’t afford pieces from that line, being gifted with a fragrance inspired by their favourite fashion house is a great way to give them a small piece of the brand,” she says.
FOR MOM
FOR DAD
FOR GRANDMA
FOR A TEENAGER
CommonScents
for all
NOV–ARTOFFRAGRANCE.indd 59 12-10-09 5:27 PM
60 NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com
holiday fragrance
HELPING A CUSTOMER AMASS THE PERFECT fragrance wardrobe won’t happen overnight, but it’s more than worth your time and effort, say experts. After all, with so many wonderful scents to choose from, limiting the selec-tion to one or two seems a shame. “I often say I wouldn’t wear the same shoes every day because they don’t go with every outfi t or event, and ultimately, the repetition can be boring,” says Patty Cooper, national education manager for LVMH Fragrance Brands. “The same applies with fragrance.”
Moreover, says Marian Bendeth, global fragrance expert and owner of Sixth Scents, we’re all individuals and our per-fume library should refl ect that. “You miss out on some out-standing scents and experiences when you limit your fragrance selection to one or two options. It’s when someone springboards off the scent diving board into something they never would have considered before that they are often pleas-antly surprised at what they fi nd,” she says.
Here’s how to help customers choose a new and winning fragrance for life’s key moments and moods:AT THE OFFICE: So� fl oral or musky notes are the best nine-to-fi ve bet, if only to appease any potential scent-sensitive co-workers. Advise that they skip any fragrance that smells overpowering, and consider diluted mists or lightly scented body lotions to ensure the aroma is present without being overwhelming. Try: YSL Paris Eau de Toilette or Givenchy Very Irrésistible Eau de ParfumFOR A NIGHT OUT: Look for notes of deep vanilla or musky essential oils to give off a scent that’s warm and feminine, with just a touch of sensual mystery.Try: Narciso Rodriguez For Her Eau de Toilette or Prada Candy Eau de ParfumDURING THE WEEKEND: To keep things fresh and relaxed, try subtle fl oral notes like ylang ylang, jasmine or wisteria, and consider spritzing with an eau de cologne or eau fraiche, which imbue the right amount of subtle fragrance. Try: Chloé Love Chloé Eau de Parfum or Estée Lauder Pleasures Eau de ParfumFOR A PICK-ME-UP: Scents with citrus undertones make people feel happy, says Cooper, while fl orals tend to put a skip in their step.
a Fragrance Wardrobe
BUILD
”“When someone springboards off the scent diving board into something they never would have considered before…they are o� en pleasantly surprised
FOR A NIGHT OUT
Try: Clinique Happy Eau de Parfum or Gucci Flora by Gucci Eau de ToiletteFOR ROMANCE: When in the mood for love, wearing a fragrance with hints of vanilla, musk, tonka bean, amber or patchouli all fi t the bill. “They make someone want to get closer,” says Cooper.Try: Calvin Klein Forbidden Euphoria Eau de Parfum or Guerlain Shalimar Eau de ParfumFOR A BOOST OF CONFIDENCE: When it comes to feeling strong and powerful, it’s all about personal scent preference, says Bendeth. “The key is to wear something that refl ects the individual’s style and personality as a whole. Do that and you can’t go wrong,” she says.Try: Chanel No. 19 Poudré Eau de Parfum or Armani Code for Women Eau de Parfum
FOR A PICK-ME-UP
FOR ROMANCE
DURING THE WEEKEND
AT THE OFFICE
A BOOST OF CONFIDENCE
NOV–ARTOFFRAGRANCE.indd 60 12-10-09 5:29 PM
These are 5-10 minute product specifi c training tutorials that will help keep you current on new product launches before they arrive in your store.
We asked Canada’s BA’s what they thought of the idea. Here’s what they said:
99.4% said that these training courses would make their job easier.
88.3% said they would like these available on their computer through Cosmetics web site.
81.2% said they would use these training courses for every product available.
Look for the latest product knowledge tutorials on our web site starting mid September this year. Visit:
cosmeticsmag.comTo get you own product training tutorials: e-mail [email protected], [email protected],[email protected] call 416.764.1664
Introducing new product knowledge tutorials, a partnership between Cosmetics Magazine and Beauteschool.
PRODUCT KNOWLEDGEat your fi ngertips
Beauty Advisors from across Canada who have completed the Lady Gaga FAME eLearning said:
This is the best sales program I have seen. I captured the full picture Mother Monster wishes us to use and sell her Masterpiece. I will do well with these sales techniques. I will kill conformity and have a blast selling!”
— Ruthann P.
“I though this was a super way to learn the notes and and the technology behind FAME.”
— Scott N.
“Great visual and interactive learning!” — Flavia A.
INSPIRING CANADA’S BEAUTY EXPERTS
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62 NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com
beauty fi x
Find solutions to all of your
eyecare woes with the latest pro tips and products
/ by Jill Dunn
focus NOVEMBER 2012
focus NOVEMBER 2012 /
focus / cosmeticsmag.com
focus cosmeticsmag.com
focusin
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63cosmeticsmag.com / NOVEMBER 2012
beauty fi x
GIVE THESE AA TRYA TRY
RINKLES AT THE CORNERS, DROOPY LIDS, dark shadows underneath: there’s no question that the signs of aging creep up around the eyes fi rst and can make you look old beyond your years.
“The delicate skin around your eyes is about two or three times thinner than the skin on the rest of your face,” says Victoria-based dermatologist Dr. Mark Lupin, who is also a clinical instructor at the UBC department of dermatology. “And it’s thinner for good physiological reason: if it were the same thickness as our face, we wouldn’t be able to blink.”
Given this delicate skin, eye troubles like wrinkles, dark circles, puffi ness and lack of fi rmness are far more apparent. Here, some tricks to looking bright-eyed – just remember, as with any regimen, consistency is key. “I recommend twice per day usage for two to three months to see results,” says Dr. Lupin. “And use a gentle touch – apply using your ring fi nger for the least amount of pressure.”
concern: fi ne lines/wrinklesWrinkles around the eye area are caused by a combination of muscular activity, such as smiling, and photo damage from the sun’s UV rays. “The good news is, out of all the eye care woes, fi ne lines and wrinkles are amongst the easiest to treat,” says Dr. Sheldon Pollack, medical director at the Toronto Cosmetic Skin Surgery Centre and long-time consultant with NeoStrata. “We have ingredients in our arsenal, like retinol, peptides and vitamin C that are proven to be effective in boosting collagen production and minimizing fi ne lines.” Retinol and peptides work to increase collagen production; therefore lines will be smoothed over time (increased collagen means that lines are boosted from the inside out.)
Since fi ne lines can be more apparent when the skin is dry, it’s imperative to keep the eye area hydrated. “The one thing to note with vitamin A or retinol is that they tend to be drying,” cautions Dr. Lupin. “So I wouldn’t recommend them as a fi rst step. Try peptides instead, because over time, peptides have a thickening effect [on the skin],” he says. “I like polypeptides, specifi cally matrixyl, around the eye area because it stimulates new collagen formation,” says Dr. Pollack. “What I recommend for everyday use is a combination of peptides and antioxidants like vitamin C. In addition to dealing with what’s around the eye and building new collagen, the vitamin C will prevent future damage.” Try the new NeoStrata Anti-Aging Eye Cream with Fruit Stem Cells, $42 – it’s bolstered with PhytoCellTec, the fi rst fruit stem cell active ingredient that provides a haven for skin stem cells to fl ourish, while peptides protect precious collagen and smooth lines over time. L’Oréal Paris Revitalift Triple Power LZR Precision Eye Care, $36, mimics an in-offi ce fractionalized laser treatment, where tiny fractions of light cause injury in the skin, thus kick-starting collagen synthesis. Triple Power LZR, however, uses fragmented bits of hyaluronic acid to visibly plump up lines and Pro-Xylane to aid in collagen repair, along with caffeine to constrict blood vessels.
concern: puffi ness/undereye bags Pockets of fat around the eye act as a natural cushion, but as we age, these pockets can shift and make us look tired. “In some individuals, the fat can push forward or sag, which results in puffi ness,” says Dr. Lupin. If you reach for cream with collagen-boosting ingredients, it can help maintain that all-important skin support system (think of collagen and elastin as scaffolding around the cushions of fat to keep them
Lancôme Génifi que Yeux Light-Pearl Eye Illuminating Concentrate minimizes eye bags and puffi ness
Estée Lauder Re-Nutriv Age-Renewal Eye Crème packs an antioxidant punch
NeoStrata Anti-Aging Eye Cream with Fruit Stem Cells helps smooth fi ne lines
Clinique Even Better Eyes Dark Spot Corrector targets undereye darkness
c
focusin
NOV-BEAUTYFIX_EYECARE.indd 63 12-10-10 12:55 PM
64 NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com
beauty fi x
in place). Try Estée Lauder Re-Nutriv Intensive Age-Renewal Eye Crème, $125. It relies on the powerful and rare antioxidant couple of red algae and Chinese plum fruit extract to help de-puff and hydrate eyes. Consider also Lancôme Génifi que Yeux Light-Pearl Eye-Illuminating Youth Activating Concentrate, $85. The rotating and massaging stainless steel applicator is designed to have a 360-degree reach all around the eye contour, so puffi ness is not only minimized underneath the eye, but also on the lid and tear trough area.
Swelling or puffi ness can also happen in temporary instances (from late nights or a bout of tears). For a quick fi x to suppress swelling, Dr. Pollack recommends a home remedy of a couple of cold tea bags – the chilliness and antioxidants in the tea will reduce puffy areas. And if you wake up every morning puffy? Consider sleeping on two pillows instead of one to gently elevate your head and reduce the chance of fl uid retention around eyes, advises Dr. Lupin.
concern: dark circlesNothing makes eyes appear more fatigued than dark circles. Think of dark circles almost like bruises under the eye. They are caused by dilated blood vessels that “pool” blood under the eye area, and since the skin is so thin, the darkness of the blood shows through with a “dark shadow” effect. Given that dark circles are hereditary, there’s no miracle cream to make them disappear entirely, but there are topical treatments to help minimize their appearance. Dr. Pollack looks to hydrating eye creams that will improve texture and that also contain optical illuminators to help diffuse darkness. The Clinique Even Better Eyes Dark Spot Corrector, $48, contains mulberry root, vitamin C, caffeine and green tea extract to target darkness, while nearly invisible pigments adapt to each skin tone to optically ‘lift’ dark areas. And Smashbox Photo Finish Hydrating Under Eye Primer, $32, contains light-refl ecting pigments to immediately brighten under the eyes, while vitamin C smoothes lines over time.
concern: loss of fi rmnessLoss of fi rmness or slack, drooping skin around the eyes tends to occur in more mature women; many women are conscious of that “hooded” eyelid effect when gravity takes hold and skin starts to look slack. While the only guaranteed fi x is a surgical lift for extreme sagging, you can revive slack skin with peptides and retinol to retain tautness around the eye area. Try StriVectin-TL 360° Tightening Eye Serum, $79. This lightweight eye serum contains a patented niacin molecule that works to repair existing damage and strengthen the skin’s barrier function, giving the eye contour a tightening effect (think of it like support hose for your skin). Or try the Caudalie Vinexpert Resveratrol-Oleyl Anti-Ageing Serum for Eyes & Lips, $75. The key ingredient is resveratrol-oleyl, a mega-antioxidant that halts glycation (the process responsible for breaking down collagen and elastin) at its source.
Caudalie Vinexpert Resveratrol-Oleyl Anti-Ageing Serum for Eyes & Lips
StriVectin-TL 360° Tightening Eye Serum
Smashbox Photofi nish Hydrating Under
Eye Primer
L’Oréal Paris RevitaLi� Triple Power LZR Precision Eye Care
NOV-BEAUTYFIX_EYECARE.indd 64 12-10-11 10:31 AM
In-store displays also help increase sales and visibility for your brands
whether it be for a newly launched product, rebranding or seasonal support.
Nominations are now open for the 2013 Visual Display Awards.
Visit cosmeticsmag.com and download your nomination form under the
“Awards” tab. Or you can nominate your favourite visual display designer
by simply sending their name and e-mail address to Jillian Vieira at:
Recognizing the talented men and women who work
so hard to make our brands look so beautiful.
sponsors
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ShiSEido MakEup CaMEllia CoMpaCt (liMitEd EditioN)
Inspired by Shiseido’s symbolic Camellia trademark, this stunning limited edition compact, released to commemorate Shiseido’s 140th anniversary, features shimmering face colour powder in shades of vividly rich rose, spring petal pink, and icy cool platinum.
price: $38
available: November 15 at The Bay, Sears, murale, select Shoppers Drug mart locations, Jean Coutu, London Drugs and Ogilvy
NEW LAUNCHES
photo FiNiSh hYdratiNG uNdEr EYE priMEr
This latest addition to the legendary smashbox collection of Photo Finish Primers is a breakthrough in the primer category made specifically for the delicate skin under your eyes. The hydrating, light-reflecting formula instantly brightens the under eye area, while improving the appearance of puffiness and dark circles over time.
BourjoiS pariS iNtuitivE liNEr
An innovative liner with a triple tip that allows you to achieve a fine and intense line for 24 hours hold. Finally, a liner that creates the perfect doe-eye by simply tapping the brush along your lash line!
Price $20. On counter: September 2012. Exclusively at select Shoppers Drug mart/Pharmaprix locations.
November December 12 Launches.indd 1 19/09/12 2:29 PM
NEW Valentina assoluto eau de Parfum intense
From the famed Italian fashion house is a new take on Valentina’s femininity. The Italian chypre floral has been reinterpreted with Smeggia peach, Alba truffle, white florals, vanilla, cedarwood and patchouli providing a sophisticated, intense and mysterious twist..
Available at Holt Renfrew, The Bay, Ogilvy and Shoppers Drug Mart Beauty Boutiques (November)
Valentina Assoluto Eau de Parfum Intense Spray 50ml $105.00Valentina Assoluto Eau de Parfum Intense Spray 80ml $135.00
2012 Cosa awards
Wednesday November 14, 2012Royal York Hotel – Canadian Room
Toronto, Ontario
Order your tickets todayCall 416-764-2498
NEW LAUNCHES
The Fragrance awards will take place next year on April 25, 2013 at the Marriott Chateau Champlain Hotel in Montreal.
ViChy ProeVen BB Cream
Canada’s #1 selling uneven skin tone correcting range - Vichy ProEVEN - introduces its ProEVEN BB Cream – a skin perfecting cream specifically made to instantly neutralize all signs of unevenness, for a flawless complexion. The perfect complement to ProEVEN Daily Dark Spot Corrector.
November December 12 Launches.indd 2 19/09/12 2:29 PM
Organizations in the cosmetics, fragrances, toiletries or related industries that want to inform the industry about upcoming special events, exhibitions, conferences, etc., should send information, dates, contact name, address, and telephone and fax numbers to: Calendar of Events, Cosmetics magazine,
One Mount Pleasant Road, 8th floor, Toronto, Ontario, M4Y 2Y5
Please note submissions should be made 18 weeks prior to the event to be considered for a listing.
November 2, 2012 Canadian Beauty Innovation Awards, Toronto
www.coloursbeautified.com
November 6–8, 2012 In-Cosmetics Asia, Bangkok, Thailand
www.in-cosmeticsasia.com
November 10, 2012 CCTFA Foundation Mirror Ball, Toronto
www.cctfa.ca
November 14, 2012 11th Annual COSA Awards, Toronto
www.cosmeticsmag.com
February 15-19, 2013Ambiente, Frankfurt, Germany
www.ambiente.messefrankfurt.com
march 8-11, 2013 Cosmoprof, Bologna, Italy
www.cosmoprof.com
april 25, 2013Canadian Fragrance Awards, Montreal
www.cosmeticsmag.com
may 6-12, 2013 Canadian Fragrance Week, Across Canada
Rules: limit one entry per person. This contest is not open to employees of rogers media or those living in Quebec. To be eligible to win, all entrants must submit a letter to the editor. Facsimiles and photocopies are not eligible. please include your return address on your envelope. The draw will be held on December 6, 2012 at 10:00 a.m. at the Cosmetics offices in Toronto. Cosmetics will notify the winner by mail, email or telephone. Cosmetics will then arrange to mail the prizes to the winners. by entering the contest, the winner agrees to have his or her name published in Cosmetics. Cosmetics magazine complies with all privacy laws.
Win This BalloTName:
address:
city:
province:
postal code:
email address:
Telephone:
Store/retailer name:
Would you like to be added to the cosmetics’ email advisory committee?
To enter, mail in this entry form including your name, address, email and telephone number along with your letter to the editor. Address it to: Cosmetics Magazine Win This Contest, Cosmetics Magazine, 1 Mount Pleasant Road, 8th Floor, Toronto, Ontario, M4Y 2Y5
Write a letter to the editor and you could win a beauty bag filled with products from Lancôme, not to mention the notoriety of getting your letter published in the magazine. Email your letters (including your city, store and daytime phone number) to [email protected] or mail your letter, along with the ballot on the right, to the address provided. You can also tweet us your thoughts at @cosmeticsmag. Note: Cosmetics reserves the discretionary right to publish all letters submitted. Letters may be edited for length and content.
November/December 2012 February–may 2013
WRITE A LETTER TO THE EDITOR &WIN!
68 NOVEMBER 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com
2012 beauty calendar
NOV_CALENDAR.indd 68 12-10-11 1:28 PM
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From MAC Viva Glam Fashion Cares to the Look Good
Feel Better 20th Anniversary Luncheon and the TIFF x
L’Oréal Paris Style Stars event, Cosmetics was there
Shine and sequins galore during the opening
fashion show at MAC Fashion Cares 25
A futuristic makeup look complete with space-age visor at MAC Fashion Cares 25
Models get ready for their debut backstage at MAC Fashion Cares 25
Flare Beauty & Health Editor Wing Sze Tang and Cosmetics’ Kristen Vinakmens at the LGFB luncheon
Aerin Lauder and friend Sara Handreke at the launch of the AERIN
beauty collection
Beauty Behind the
Scenes
Consulting Hair Artist for L’Oréal Paris USA, Johnny Lavoy, charms the beauty editors at the L’Oréal Paris Style Stars event during the Toronto International Film Festival
NOV_SCENE.indd 69 12-10-11 12:01 PM
70 november 2012 / cosmeticsmag.com
Pho
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publisher’s report
Each yEar at this timE i’m rEmindEd of thE amazing people we have working behind the counters in our department, drug and specialty stores in canada from coast to coast.
it’s cosa season again, and we received more than 870 cosa nominations this year. our judges narrowed that down to 94 finalists and after the mystery shops, we picked 17 winners who will be coming to toronto on november 14th to receive their prestigious cosa award along with 600 industry leaders at the royal york hotel. can’t make it to the awards? you can watch it that evening live on our website where we expect hundreds of people from across canada to join in on the celebrations online. Just visit cosmeticsmag.com on november 14th to stream the show live.
reading through the nominations, as i do every year, it reminds me of the incredible passion, dedication and loyalty our beauty experts have for the retailers they work for, the brands they sell and the customers they serve. it’s a very special bond that not only drives sales, but is the very basis for the success we all enjoy in the beauty industry in canada.
i love reading about the stories of how you have helped customers deal with a skin pigmentation challenge, or the customer that tells you her makeup artist has gone mia one week before her wedding, or the young teenager with an acne problem that’s too embarrassed to go out in public. Each time you step up and deal with each customer as if they were your only customer. and whether you show her how to cover up that pigmentation problem, or offer to do the bride-to-be’s makeup for her special day or provide a skin regimen that clears up her acne, you have a customer that leaves your store feeling good, looking better and wanting to come back for more.
and that’s what it’s all about. getting that customer to talk to others about the pleasant experience she had and watching her come back into the store asking for you by name. you have just earned a loyal customer for many years to come, and it feels great, doesn’t it?
no wonder you love what you do. it’s a gift that only you can provide and you do it with flying colours, so a big kudos to all of you! i’m think-ing we should put a number of these great service stories together in a special supplement that you can use as inspiration whenever you like. stay tuned.
Keep up the great work you do every day. you are all winners in our eyes!
have a great fall/holiday selling season.
Jim HicksPublisher, Cosmetics magazine
it’s time again!COSA
NOV–PUBLISHER'SLETTER.indd 70 12-10-10 2:47 PM
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