corsair instructionmanual

Instruction Manual F4U-1D Corsair

CARF-Models /WGLQIR#FDUIPRGHOVFRP

Building Instructions for CARF-Models F4U-1D Corsair

Thank you very much for purchasing our CARF-Models Corsair all composite aircraft, madewith our all composite prouction technique. The master plug of this Corsair was designed with a3D CAD program, and then milled on our 3D capable CNC-router. Skilled craftsmen andexperienced modellers have finalized the shapes and contours as well as the details of the plane,before the production mold was made. This high-tech marvel of production tooling is a precise,handcrafted set of molds, which will allow us to supply precision composite parts for many yearsto come.

Before you get started building and setting-up your aircraft, please make sure you have read thisinstruction manual several times, and understood it. If you have any questions, please donthesitate to contact us. Below are the contact details:

Email: [email protected]: Phone your CARF Rep!!! He will be there for you.Website: http://www.carf-models.com

Liability Exclusion and Damages

You have acquired a kit, which can be assembled into a fully working R/C model when fitted outwith suitable accessories, as described in the instruction manual with the kit. However, asmanufacturers, we at CARF-Models are not in a position to influence the way you build andoperate your model, and we have no control over the methods you use to install, operate andmaintain the radio control system components. For this reason we are obliged to deny all liabilityfor loss, damage or costs which are incurred due to the incompetent or incorrect application andoperation of our products, or which are connected with such operation in any way. Unlessotherwise prescribed by binding law, the obligation of the CARF-Models company to paycompensation is excluded, regardless of the legal argument employed. This applies to personalinjury, death, damage to buildings, loss of turnover and business, interruption of business or otherdirect and indirect consequent damages. In all circumstances our total liability is limited to theamount which you actually paid for this model.

BY OPERATING THIS MODEL YOU ASSUME FULL RESPONSIBILITYFOR YOUR ACTIONS.

It is important to understand that CARF-Models Co., Ltd, is unable to monitor whether you followthe instructions contained in this instruction manual regarding the construction, operation andmaintenance of the aircraft, nor whether you install and use the radio control system correctly. Forthis reason we at CARF-Modelsare unable to guarantee or provide a contractual agreement withany individual or company that the model you have made will function correctly and safely. You,as operator of the model, must rely upon your own expertise and judgement in acquiring andoperating this model.


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Supplementary Safety Notes

Pre-flight checking:Before every flying session check that all the models working systems function correctly, and besure to carry out a range check.

The first time you fly any new model aircraft we strongly recommend that you enlist the help of anexperienced modeller to help you check the model and offer advice while you are flying. Heshould be capable of detecting potential weak points and errors.

Be certain to keep to the recommended CG position and control surface travels. If adjustments arerequired, carry them out before operating the model.

Be aware of any instructions and warnings of other manufacturers, whose product(s) you use inthis particular aircraft, especially engine and radio equipment.

Please dont ignore our warnings, or those provided by these other manufacturers. They refer tofacts and processes which, if ignored, could result in permanent damage or fatal injury.

Attention !

This Scale-Aircraft is a high-end product and can create an enormous risk for both pilot andspectators, if not handled with care, and used according to the instructions. Make sure that youoperate your Corsair according to the AMA rules, or those laws and regulations governing themodel flying in the country of use. The engine, servos and control surfaces have to be attachedproperly. Please use only the recommended engines, servos, propellers, and accessories suppliedin the kit. Make sure that the Centre of Gravity is located in the recommended place. Use thenose heavy end of the CG range for your first flights, before you start experimenting with movingthe CG back. If you find that you need to relocate your batteries or even add weight in the aircraftto move the CG to the recommended position, please do so and dont try to save weight or hassle.A tail heavy plane, in a first flight, can be an enormous danger for you and all spectators. Fix anyweights, and heavy items like batteries, very securely to the plane.

Make sure that the plane is secured properly when you start the engine. Have at least 2 helpershold your plane from the tail end, or from behind the wing tips, before you start the engine. Makesure that all spectators are behind, or far in front, of the aircraft when running up the engine. Makesure that you range check your R/C system thoroughly before the first flight. It is absolutelynecessary to range check your complete R/C installation first WITHOUT the engine running.Leave the transmitter antenna retracted, and check the distance you can walk before fail-safeoccurs. Then start up the engine, run it at about half throttle and repeat this range check with theengine running. Make sure that there is no range reduction before fail-safe occurs. Only thenmake the 1st flight. If you feel that the range with engine running is less then with the engine off,please contact the radio supplier and the engine manufacturer and DONT FLY at that time. If youfly with 2.4 GHz technology, please follow the radio manufacturers instructions for rangechecking. Always check range before a flying session!


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After starting your engine the first time, check for vibrations through the whole throttle range. Theengine should run smoothly with no unusual vibration. If you think that there are any excessivevibrations at any engine rpms, DONT FLY at this time and check your engine, spinner andpropeller for proper balancing. Please follow the engine manufacturers run-in recommendationsand make sure that the engine is ran-in properly before you attempt the first flight.

The light- weight sandwich composite parts dont like too much vibration and they can sufferdamage. The low mass of all the parts results in a low physical inertia, so that any excessvibrations can affect the servos and linkages. Check that the M3 bolts retaining the horizontalstablisers on to the aluminium tube are installed and tight, and that the hinge wires for the rudder,elevators and ailerons cannot come out. Make sure that your main and stab tubes are not damaged.If you have the wing fold version, make sure that the wings lock smoothly in the down positionand that the wings are attached with the 4 bolts securely. Test cycle the folding sequence severaltimes when the engine is running and make sure that the down lock is always safe.

A special note if the Moki 215 or Moki 250 radial is used: Please make sure that no electric wirecan touch any hot component on the engine. All wires should be protected by additional spiraltubing and should be fixed with cable ties on to the firewall. Any rubbing of wires needs to beprevented by using rubber grommets where they are fed through the firerwall. Do not assume thata radial engine runs without vibration. A radial engine with a single sided counter balance on thecrank shaft does have very noticable vibrations, which seem softer than the vibrations of asingle or twin cylinder gas engine, but they are just as abrasive to any rubbing components.

Check the retract system for reliable function. You should be able to cycle the gear at least 3times, after the gear was retracted for 10 minutes. Please take the time to confirm that the airsystem is not leaking. Depending on the many different possibilities for air leaks, the air systemmight seem perfectly sealed when the gear is down, but when the gear is up, a leak might show.

Make sure that all screws and bolts on the landing gear have been tightened and checked. We relyon the QC-procedures of our subcontractor Sierra Giant Scale and do NOT check the landinggear equipment before it is sent to you. Please for your own interest check every bolt, and ifnecessary, secure it with Locktite or similar. Check the safe function of the gear before you installit permanently in the wing.

On the hydraulic system for the wing fold, please ONLY use T-Fittings which grab the tube fromthe outside, such as Festo Push-In Tees. An oil spill is not only very time consuming to clean up,it might ultimately be a high risk for the wing fold system to fail in flight.

If you carefully checked all the points above and followed our advice exactly, you will have a safeand successful first flight - and many hours of pleasure with your CARF-Models F4U-1D Corsair.

Please check the important values at the end of this manual for control throws and Center ofGravity!


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The Fiberglass Parts and their internal structure

A lot of engineering went into the structural integrity of the 3-part wing, especially keeping inmind that a complex wing folding mechanism is to be used. Fuselage and tail planes are a fairlystandard design based on the many years of production experience of CARF Models. The hard-ware is complete and well chosen for the task. Much of it is pre-installed in the ARF version.


CARF-Models Ltd. [email protected]

Getting Started!

It is highly recommended to assemble your Corsair following the steps in this instruction manualclosely. A lot of building steps are interacting and there are not too many choices as to whatshould be done first, and what last. We recommend to follow this manual closely to avoid timeconsuming and expensive mistakes.

CARF-Models offers the F4U-1D Corsair in 3 different versions. This manual starts at the verybeginning of assembling a folding wing kit version (#792000).

Assembling the plug-in wing version (#791000) doesnt make much difference, to the generalbuilding approach, of course will be simplifying the build a lot. The whole chapter about thefolding wing hardware installation, and also the hydraulics installation and plumbing, can beskipped.

Most of you will be curious about what amount of building the ARF version (#793000) willrequire from you. The photos below show all the parts, which the factory installs for you beforethe plane is packed and shipped. If you look at these photos, you will ask, what you still will haveto do? Well, its not much anymore.

ARF Corsair Building Jobs: Installing your engine, your servos, and adjusting yourlinkages. For transport reasons we do not glue the rudder fin on to the fuselage, but this is a10 minute job to do. Assemble the 3 torsion linkages and connecting them to the controlsand the servos. Installing the landing gear (actually bolting it in), glueing in the clearcanopy and painting the whole plane in the scheme you picked. Thats all. All in all, youmight need to read a few tiny parts of landing gear installation, and then the last 10-12pages about engine and RC installation. And of course, the finish and the preflight info.

Now, is it worth the extra money to go withthe ARF version? ...it depends on you!

If you are a builder, you will enjoy the buildevery bit as much as if youre more a flyerand go for the ARF version.

All this is alreadyinstalledin the CARFCorsair ARF.



1. Main Gear and Gear Door Installation

To start with the gear installation first cut the borders of the gear cutouts along the line and cleanthe edges. The cut out parts will not be needed anymore, so you can cut slightly smaller and sand tofit. Please note the cutting line Gear doors and permanent mounting covers have to be cut from thelaminated carbon fibre part . Fit the 2 permanent covers in tightly, and make sure that around eachgear doors edges is a nice and constant gap of approx. 1 mm all around.

Now use a jig saw blade to remove the center area plywood from the gear mount. When we buildthe internal structure of the Corsair wing, we have to make sure that the two gear ribs are in theabsolutely correct alignment and position, so that the wheel will fit nicely into the wing. And itstight back there. So we square the mounts by leaving the gear mounting rails and the center woodconnected by a few tabs. It is a few minutes work to cut this part out. Be careful not to damage thetop wing skin with the jig saw blade. After the center wood is cut out and removed, youre the firstperson in the world to see the wood structure beneath, so if there is need to re-glue a glue joint,now will be the time to do so. Clean the wood edges with sand paper, where necessary.

Important: After cutting the wood pleasecheck all glue joints which appear below.Use epoxy glue and, if needed, some littlepatches of fiberglass reinforcement.

Cut the opening for geardoors and permanent coversin the center wing and alsocut the gear doors an per-manent covers from thecarbon parts. See the lineson the photos!



Trial fit the landing gear unit now. You willsee that you will have to mill a notch in thecooler intake area on the front inside corner,so that the mounting tab of the landing gearcan be inserted. Having the gear unit inplace, you will have to mark and cut the innerpermanent cover in this area, too.

The front outer corner of the gear unit issurely going to touch the top skin of thewing. Its very tight there, and you can millout the 2mm sandwich foam to gain another2mm space. You can also grind the gear unita little bit to round corners, which will giveyou another one or two mm. Cycle the gearby hand to see if strut and wheel do not bindor hit anywhere. If the mounting rails are not100% parallel, please use very thin plywood(included in the hardware bag) to slightlypack the mounting areas.

lowest

notch

The Landing Gear Unit with Rotating Strut



If necessary, you can pack a fewlayers of 0.8 mm plywood on top ofthe rails to get the landing gear unit 1-2 mm further up. As soon as the gearcycles smoothly use a pen to mark theholes to be drilled.

With the gear mounted, determine thebest wood tab positions for the littlesheet metal screws to hold thepermanent gear covers in place. Youcan use scrap pieces of 3mm plywoodto make the tabs and glue them inplace with thick CA. Fit thepermanent covers with tape and drill1.5mm holes, which will workperfectly for the supplied 2.2mmsheet metal screws.

Check allignment of gear to beparallel in front and side view.



The front gear door, which covers the strut, willbe attached when the landing gear is finallymounted. So please disregard this step for now.The two main doors for the wheel wells are goingto be attached next.

Determine the hinge position according to thephotos and create a slot in the wheel bay edgeapprox 5 mm long and 3 mm wide at every hingepoint. Sand the inside of the gear doorsin the hinge area and tack the hinges inplace with a drop of CA. Make surethat the position of the hinges matchthe slots. Use a 2mm steel pin to alignboth hinges per door. The hinge pinmust be at least 4 mm away from thedoor edge (see dimension on photo) toenable the door to open fully.

Create two 50 mm long hinge pinsfrom the 2mm steel wire, bend one end 90 deg.Cut 2 plastic tubes per hinge, approx. 20 mmlong, and slide them on the hinge pin. Assemblehinge pins and plastic tubes into the hinges. Trialfit the doors with the assembled hinges into thewheel opening. You will realize that the doors(laminated carbon sheet) are thinner than thesandwich material of the wing. To create thecorrect hinge geometry you must remove thesandwich foam around the white plastic tubes, sothat the gear door surface and wing skin are onthe same level.

Once all fits nicely, glue the white tubes with adrop of 5 minute epoxy into the wing. Use widemasking tape to hold the gear door in place whilethe glue is setting. After the glue has set, take offthe masking tape and check movement. Glue littlerecessed tabs from 0.8mm plywood on the rearedge and front edge of the wheel bay cutout forthe gear door to rest against when closed. Therear resting lip should not be in the exact centerof the cutout, because it could fowl interfere thewheel.

After everything works smoothly, you can applynice epoxy fillets to every glue joint, as somejoints have been only tack-glued during theassembly process.

4 m

m



Now you can install the mountingplates for the gear door cylinders,which are made from 3mm plywoodand are glued to the bottom of thewheel bay. The length and the strokeof the Robart Cylinders is perfectlyright. There is no room for anadditional clevis, but a 90 degreebend of the 2mm pushrod, screwedall the way into the piston rod of thecylinder, works perfectly.

We recommend to screw the mountsfor the Robart cylinders directly onto the plywood board and cut thescrew tip off. Then take theassembled unit, confirm the correctlocation and glue in with epoxy.Usually you do not have to removethe mounts anymore, you only haveto make sure that you can access thee-clip for the pin at any time, toremove or replace the cylinder, ifnecessary one day.

Set the end positions so that thecylinder still has about 1 mmavailable travel when the gear dooris mechanically closed. This willhold the gear door tight duringflight. When the cylinder is fullyextended, the angle of the gear doorsshould be perfectly right, too. Wedesigned the hinges and controlhorns matching the dimensions andstroke of these cylinders.

Note: the photos show the foldingwing mechanism already installed.Our instruction book describes thisworking step at a later stage.

The result of your hard work: A giant wheel in a perfectlysnug wheel well, covered with tightly fitted gear doors.



The wing fold mechanism is a CARF Models development, where we put the most emphasis onthe simplicity of the system. On purpose we did not want to rely on a locking pin or any otheradditional mechanical features, which might seem safe at first glance, but create potential offailure when you look closer. So the design of our wing fold uses the same strong mechanicalfeature as most retract systems do. A hydraulic cylinder is mounted in the outer wing stud, whichis permanently mounted to the center wing mounts with an axle. No hydraulic fluid lines need tobe disconnected when taking the outer wings off for transportation and storage. The sliding lockpin unlocks the bottom hook of the outer stud when the cylinder expands, and pushes the pin intothe opposite end of the slot in the inner mounting claws. Then the force of the cylinder pushes theouter wing upwards. When the wing is almost vertical, the lock pin could slide back to the outerposition in the slot, causing the wing to flop back and forth in the wind when folded all the wayup. To prevent this, a keeper is mounted to the locking pin, which interlocks with a small pin inthe center wing fold mount. Incredibly simple, but very effective and safe.

The Haeusl hydraulic system itself has been used in retract systems for many years, and hasproven its reliability world wide. Jet modelers know Haeusl pumps very well, these high precisionunits are used as fuel pumps by most turbine manufacturers. The hydraulics come with a separateinstruction manual, which you please read with great care before you start installing the systeminto your Corsair.

2. The wing fold mechanism

We recommend to read this following step several times before you actually start working on thewing fold installation. This is the most complicated (and most critical) building step of yourCARF Corsair assembly and you should try to understand every paragraph in full, imagine allpossible consequences of the critical work steps. This part of the build should not be rushed, youshould allow at least 3-4 building days, to allow glue joints to cure over night before you continuestep by step.



The first step is to trial fit theassembled wing fold unit to the centerwing spar. Every spar has been drilledand sanded to fit the wing fold clawbefore the joining process of thecenter wings mold halves. However,it is quite possible that slightadjustments need to be carried out,such as sanding or grinding mountingsurfaces and holes, especially foralignment purposes.

Unbolt the up-lock and remove fromthe sliding pin for now. The up lockonly works properly when thepressurized cylinder operates themovement of the aluminum stud. Ifthe aluminum stud is moved by handduring the installation and the slidingpin is not in the upper end position ofthe slot, the aluminum up-lock featurecan interfere with the pin and getdamaged. As soon as the operation iscarried out by the cylinder, forcing thesliding pin into the end positon beforeany rotating movement is initiated,this problem will not occur anymore.

Use 6x M5 bolts and stop nuts to bolteach unit in place. Check thealignment in the down and up foldedposition as shown on the photos.

If the alignment is slightly off,honestly, there is not very much to doexcept a lot of grinding, which inreturn would weaken the sparsubstantially. Slight misalignmentssometimes occur in the up foldedposition, when the spar twistedslightly during the mold joiningprocedure. Our recommendation is toaccept it, as it does not have anystructural or aerodynamical effects inflight, and it is usually not visible atall when the wing is mounted. Youshould also check the distancebetween the up folded wing stud and

Unbolt this up-lockbeforemoving theunitby hand!

allignment checkfrom side

distance checkfrom topto center wingedge



the top skin of the center wing. It is verydifficult to center the spar perfectly whenjoining the molds, but slight corrections canbe made by grinding the holes in both sparand aluminum claws a little bit. As a rule ofthumb a tolerance of 3 mm (1/8") isacceptable.

Then slide the carbon sleeves on thealuminum studs, check that they dont haveinacceptable play and that the length wouldnot fowl the movement of the folding wing.The rear edge of the carbon sleeve mustmatch the rear end of the aluminum stud, sothat only the 8mm steel pin is visible. Theinner edge (towards the root) must have a fewmm clearance around the aluminum clawsmounted to the center wing. Slide the outerwing over the sleeve and confirm that the rootedge would fit reasonably close to the rootedge of the center wing. Up to 1 mm can beadjusted when gluing the sleeve into the wing,so this should not worry you right now. As wewant to glue the wing fold permanently to thecenter wing, we want to make sure that noserious mismatch would occur.

When the alignment of the wing folds isacceptable, you should take the claws off thespar, degrease the claws with alcohol oracetone, and wax the bolts thoroughly. Thenapply Aeropoxy (or UHU Endfest) to thesurfaces, holes and bolts and permanentlyinstall everything finally. Attention: Do NOTtighten the bolts all the way! Leave them turn open, to allow the glue to form aperfectly matching bead between the spar andthe aluminum part. After the glue has settledthe next day, tighten the bolts finally byapplying the torque youre used to apply whentightening e.g. an M5 prop bolt.

Attention: The above is a mandatory, but irreversible working step. Youre in trouble now ifyou did not wax the bolts or didnt trial fit and move the outer wings to the up and down lockpositions. The folding studs must move freely, without any resistance, through the whole range ofmovement. If the stud is not moving freely, the mounting claws are under tension when bolted tothe spar. You also must be able to slide the locking pin all the way down in the downlock positionwith two fingers. If you feel resistance here, you will risk a down lock failure later. Make sureeverything operates smoothly and freely! A folding wing is a beautiful scale feature, but it requirestechnical understanding and careful attention to the mechanical design to operate safely!

Photo of outer wings line-up withcenter wing edges



The next step is to glue the sleevesinto the outer wings. Therefore sandthe inner surface of the outer wingsand the top and bottom edge of thesleeves with rough sand paper. Trialfit the wing and grind inside the wingif you need to adjust the height forperfect alignment between outer andcenter wing. You can grind awaysome of the carbon, up to 1 mm isacceptable. The amount of carbon inthe outer wing is way overbuilt andrepresents a huge safety margin. Assoon as the wing can be slid onwithout force, wrap 3 layers of carbonrovings on a length of 2-3 cm aroundthe sleeve. Then apply laminatingresin to the rovings. Use a little bitmilled fiber to thicken the resin whichis then applied on the joint surfaces.Slide the wings right on, adjust themperfectly to the surface of the centerwing and hold them in place with afull width masking tape. Support thewing tip, if necessary, or use a longpiece of masking tape to support ittowards the center wing. Let the resinset over night.

Next you should create the permanentfixture of the outer wing on the wingfold spar. We recommend to use 2 M4bolts per wing panel, this gives youredundancy in regards to enginevibrations, which can losen a bolteventually and youll be glad to havea second one

While the outer wing panel is securelytaped in the down position to thecenter wing, drill with dia. 3.3mmthrough wing, sleeve and aluminumwing fold. Be very careful not todamage the cylinder rod of the wingfold cylinder. You should use a depthgauge (any brass tube over the drill bitwill do) or a very short drill bit toprevent drilling too deep.

Add Carbon stringsHERE...

...and HERE!



Then use an M4 tap and tap the threadcarefully so that you can insert andtighten the M4x8 mm bolts.Countersink the bolt heads so thatthey sit firmly on the carbon sleeve.

Next day you take the wings off,check the glue joints inside the wing,and apply 2 strings of carbon fibrerovings with laminating resin alongeach corner of the joint, to create anice fillet between sleeve and wingskin. Also double check the glue ofthe two rear ribs with resin and microballon. During the waiting time forthe resin to cure, you can disassemblethe wing fold and determine theposition of the front folding hinge.You need to use an extended pin,made from aluminum tubes, carbontubes or even a long round wooddowel, to carry over the position ofthe virtual axis of rotation to the fronthinge. Trial fit the wood spar in thewing and mark the holes to be drilledto mount the aluminum hinge to thatspar. Bolt the aluminum hinge on tothe plywood and glue the plywoodpermanently in place, leaving theextended pin as a jig in place.

A 10 mm steel,aluminum, car-bon or wood rodneeds to be modi-fied with a 6 mmdiameter tip, toallign the fronthinge with thewing fold unit,exactly paralleland co-axial!



Mount the opposite aluminum hingewith an M6 bolt and a temporary nut.Tack it to the outer wood support tothe aluminum hinge, following theapproximate curve of the wing. Slidethe outer wing on and trial fit thewood piece in the outer wing panel.This works best when you have thewings folded upright. It gives youroom to work. You might have toshape the outer contour of the wood,or remove and re-tack the hinge to thewood to achieve a good result. Whenthe wood basically fits the outer wing,you should pull the wing off and boltthe aluminum hinge permanently tothe wood by using the 3.5mm sheetmetal screws, just as you did on thecenter wing hinge.

Apply 30 min epoxy with somemicroballon and/or milled fibre to thewood piece which holds the outerfront aluminum hinge. Even if you donot get the joint perfectly in one shot,you can easily create a nice fillet tothis short plywood spar later on, afteryou disassembled the front hinge byremoving the M6 bolt and temporarynut and sliding the outer panel off, tohold the aluminum hinge securely inthe outer wing.

Note: your kit has M4 bolts and T-nuts in-cluded instead of the self tappers as in thepics!

You might have to adjust the cutout for themain wing spar in the outer wing, so thatwhen folded all the way up, the wing skin doesnot fowl the folding mech. Use the milledcover as template, but make sure the hole isalways at least 2 mm smaller than the cover.

Ready to fill the joints with epoxy/microballon...



Now first move the wing up anddown and finally shape thecontact edges of the center wingwith a narrow sanding block orpermagrit file so that themovement is smooth withoutany binding or locking.

Take the short piece ofaluminum tube, taper the edgesslightly and slide it into the outerwing rear tube sleeve. Glue thereinforcement ribs into thecenter and outer wing. Glue alittle piece of the sleeve tube intothe center wing and glue anapprox. 20 mm piece of tubeinto the outer wing sleeve, sothat when the wings fold down,it slides approx. 6 mm (1/4")into the center wing sleeve. Wehave included some sleeve andsome tube for you in thehardware bag.

Congratulations: You havemanaged to install the wing foldmechanics into your Corsairwing. This was the mostcomplicated task. The remainingbuilding steps should go verystraight forward.

The shape of this additional wood rib looks a littledifferent to what is included in your kit. But thefunction is the same.



Alternatively: Plug In Wings (#791000)

Not much is to be said about the plug inwings fit the wing tubes and slide thewings on to the center wing. Install the 2 halfribs in the very tip of the airfoil and glue thefront wing dowel into one side. This wingdowel is only necessary for precisealignment of the leading edge, it will nothave to hold a lot of flying load, as thetorsion load is carried by the two wing tubesmainly.

As a reinforcement of the rear wing tube,please glue in the two hard balsa supportswith epoxy resin and microballon aftercutting out the gear doors, then add anotherlayer of fiberglass from the front to reinforcethe rear wing tube mount in the center wing.

Check the glue joints of the ribs in the outerwing panels and if you find any voids orcracks, which we have overlooked, pleasefill with epoxy and some microballon.

Now glue in the two root rib reinforcementsinto both outer wing panels and center wing,where the wing fixing bolt will be located.Drill through the root ribs in this area, insertan M6 T-nut from the inside into the outerwing panel and trial fit the M6 wing boltfrom the inside of the wheel wells. Werecommend to screw one of the white plasticknurled nuts on the wing bolt all the way tothe head and glue on with thin CA. This willcreate a wing bolt which can be tightened byhand, without having to use an allen hex keywhen assembling the plane at the field. Nowglue in scrap balsa pieces to create a surfacewhere the outer wing and the center wingbutt together. This will prevent both root ribsto be pulled together and possibly breakaway from the wing skin when accidentallyovertightening the bolt. Now, losing this boltcan have dramatic consequences, eventhough the wing is mounted with a twin tubesystem. It still can slide off during flight.Make sure that the bolt is tightened properlyand check this before every flight.



3. Flap and aileron attachment

Except for the very first kits, the flapsand ailerons have all hard pointsinstalled, where the control horns, balllinks and sliding connecting tabs aremounted.

The most important task is that youalign ailerons and flaps when theouter wing panels and the center wingare joined, before you finally glue theflap offset hinges and the aileronhinge posts in.

The ailerons had a set of hinge postsinstalled in the factory, to make surethat the critical hinge axis is placedcorrectly, also that the hinge posts canmove freely in the cutouts. Mark thehinge post positions to the aileronspar of the outer wing panel and mill3 slots (3mm wide).

Do not yet glue at this point.

drawing of hinge



Mill the slots into the flaps, outerwing panels and center wing,according to drawing and photos.Make sure that you carry over themeasurements correctly.

It is very helpful to have a longstraight piece of aluminum or wood,which can help to align the 4 flaps andailerons and outer flap to straighttrailing edges. Use a waterproof penand mark the position of flaps andailerons. You can use some maskingtape to protect the surface of the parts.Some pens will not be 100%removable from the silver paint of theparts, after installation is completed.

The edges of the wing surfaces needto be sanded from the inside, so thatthe flaps can be installed deep enoughinto the wing. Use a flat permagritplate or a rough sand paper glued to apiece of thin plywood.

Assemble the flap hinges with the3mm thick flap-side piece and the 22mm thick wing-side pieces with anM4 bolt and stop nut.

Photo of assembled hinge

115 mm

22 mm



Dry fit the wing side of the flap offsethinges and the hinge posts of theailerons all together. Once you aresure that the alignment of the 6 flapsand 2 ailerons is correct, glue the flap-side hinges into the flaps according todrawing and photos. Do take only areasonable amount of 30 min epoxy,because too much could heat upinside the flap and could distort thefiberglass surface. Let the epoxy curewell. Then dry fit the wing-side of theflap offset hinges and the hinge postsof the ailerons all together. Glue in thehinge posts and front parts of theoffset hinges.

You should not use a resin too fast forthe job. It can take quite some time toalign all surfaces properly. 5 minuteepoxy is definitely NOT suited, and30 minute epoxy can still be too fast.Finish one wing first, and then startwith the opposite wing. Do notattempt to glue all 8 surfaces at thesame time. Use the straight edge againif you need to make sure that thetrailing edge is straight.

When all is glued and freely moving,take the hinges apart and take allcontrols off. Use resin filled withmicroballon to create nice filletsaround the flap hinges.



Note: When you glue the flap hinges to the outer wing, (where the root hinge does not have awood support in the spar) please remember that the control rod will need clearance below the20 mm tube. So you might have to cut the outer one of the front hinges short, as shown on thephoto, before you finally glue it in.

Inner and center hinge of center wing Outer center wing hinge and both outerwing hinges

Center hinge of center wing top view

Slide every hingedown into the slotuntil the shouldertouches the wingsurface

cut here



Now determine the position of the controlhorns for aileron and flaps. As all controlsare completely internal, it is very importantto get the position of the horns right.Especially the aileron horn is only 25 mmlong, so a play free linkage, a perfect hornand servo installation is mandatory.

Aileron: Mill an opening into the aileron atthe root and slot the spar inside the aileron,to accept the horn. You can cut away thefront root of the aileron as well, which giveyou a bit more room to work. Glue thecontrol horn in, as close to the top surfaceas possible. Use a straight edge to extendthe top airfoil contour to the front, to getthe horn to the perfect position. Glue in theopposite aileron horn at the same time, andmake sure that the position is identical.This will make sure that deflections of bothailerons will be identical as well. Use 30min epoxy, and make sure that the gluejoint is solid and strong!!! Due to the shortarm (less than 25mm, 1" to the axis ofrotation) there will be a very high force onthe horn and the glue joint during flight. Ifthis joint breaks, the chances of aileronflutter are high, which can lead to loss ofcontrol and disintegration in flight.Lastly, drill/mill a hole into the aileron sparof the wing, so that the control linkage canbe installed later.

Outer Flap: The control horn, just like onthe ailerons, is installed in the very inneredge of the flap. Therefore mill the flatspot open and slot the balsa spar behind it.Measure from the axis of rotation (hingepin hole) and write down the distance. Itshould be around 40mm. You must makesure that all 4 flap horns are installed withthat very same distance from the axis ofrotation, to allow a syncronized movementwithout having to use 4 separate channelsor matchboxes for the flaps. Locate theposition of the pushrod. If necessary grindaway any excess glue you used to mountand secure the flap offset hinge.

Aileron horn: Sandsurface and glueextremely well! Yourplane lives off thisjoint!



Inner Flap: Drill a 3mm hole intothe root of the most inner flap atthe same distance from the axis ofrotation as the control horn ismounted on the outer flap. This isto mount an M3 ball link to theroot of the inner flap. As you cantinstall a T-Nut from the inside, weopted to use a short piece ofthreaded rod, glued in with epoxy.Behind the surface is a plywoodreinforcement. If you do not find aplywood reinforcement when youdrill, just mill out the wholesurface in front of the flap spar andinsert a piece of scrap plywood.Glue with resin.Here, however,you indeed could use a 3mm T-Nutfrom the inside, because the insideis accessible. Mount an M3 balllink, either with an M3 bolt, orwith an M3 secure nut on to thethreaded stud. Drill/mill anelongated hole for the pushrod intothe spar.

Using 2 channels for the flaps, youwould use 2 y-harnesses andcombine each inner and outer flapto one channel, and vice versa.

The middle flap moves by a slidingplate interlocking into a slot. Mill along slot in the butting surfacesand glue the phenolic plate into theinner flap. Please make sure thatthe angle of that plate follows thecurve of the trailing edgesomewhat, so that it will not bindinside of the small, curved middleflap. The slot in the middle flapneeds to be nice and tight aroundthe plate, so that the middle flapdoes not rattle on the plate.However, it really is enough to slotthe fiberglass surface. Anyadditional reinforcement of thatslot is not necessary.

Inner flap: M3 bolt or all thread stud glued in.

Middle flap:Slider glued into inner flap - middle flap slotted.

Allow flexing of flap hinges!



If you want, you can install your servos at this point to make sure that the travel of every controlsurface is sufficient and that nothing locks or binds. If necessary, you need to adjust the linkageholes drilled in the spar and mill away some fiberglass material around the control horns.

Inner Flap Servo

Outer Flap Servo

Aileron Servo (install with an extended screwdriver)



4. Rear End

3 jobs have to be done at the tail endof the plane. Firstly, the former for thetailwheel need to be installed and thegear door hinged. Secondly, theelevators have to be attached to thestab panels and the elevator torsionlinkage has to be installed, and thirdly,the rudder, torsion linkage and finhave to be installed. Lets start with thetailgear formers.

Glue the interlocking wood parts ofthe tailgear formers together and trialmount the tailgear. It will be quitedifficult to mount the tail gearcylinder when the former assemblyhas already been glued in the fuselage.Therefore it is important that you firstunderstand the installation methodwith the slot in the wood and thephenolic shims, to be glued to thewood when the installation is finallycomplete.

Install the complete tailgear andcylinder temporarily into the woodenframework before you finally glue itinto the fuselage.

Cut a slot into the fin root rib of thefuselage according to the photos. Dryfit the assembly into the fuselage.When everything sits on its correctplace, glue the former assembly intothe fuselage using 30 min epoxy.Scuff the glueing surfaces very welland clean from dust with alcohol.

Assembled woodenframework fortailgear

The cylinder mount isremovable until thetailgear is finally in-stalled, last the phe-nolic washer shouldbe glued with CA.



Tailgear Doors:First, install the tailgear and makesure that it retracts completely. Thetailwheel does not completely retractinto the fuselage, so you need tocreate a cutout for the wheel. Keepthis cutout as tight as possible aroundthe wheel, it helps to center the wheeland to support the gear doors in theclosed position later on. Then install 2hinges to every door. See drawing andphotos for the correct hinge pinposition in relation to the doors edge.Cut the hinge slots into the fuselageand trial fit with a hinge pin and 2small white plastic tube pieces oneach side of each hinge. You shouldbe able to tack all tubes to thefuselage so that the doors move freely.Now connect each front and rear doorwith a short steel pin and 2 pieces ofplastic tube. The steel pin can beglued into one tube, but must slidefreely in the other tube. Last but notleast, install the control horn, whichalso acts as a close-lock in thecorrect position and attach the springsbetween the tail gear frame and thecontrol horns. You will have to playwith gear and doors quite a bit to findthe perfect spring tension and the bestposition for the horns. These hornsalso create a stop towards the fuselageskin inside the gear well. You canreshape them, if necessary, or attachlittle plywood spacers to the inside ofthe fuselage where they rest against.

Finally, disassemble the doors and fillall tack-glue joints with 30 min epoxyor resin and microballon to strengthenthem.

Tail gear doors They are hinged in the very same way as the main gear doors. They are split inthe center, so that they can open even though the hinge line is slightly curved. They also give youthe option to install a tail hook, where all 4 doors have to be operational. If you intend not toinstall a tail hook, you can glue the two rear doors in and only make the two front doorsoperational. On the following pages we will describe the installation of 4 operational doors.

Slot the fuselage in th hinge area like on the main geardoors. 3 hinges for front door, 2 hinges for rear door.

Close-locks for front and rear door and connection pinbetween both doors

Inside view of hinges with plastic tube and steel pin



Glue in the servo mount for the tailgear steering right behind the wingsaddle and reinforce with somefiberglass cloth. Install the servo andset up the pull pull cables. Werecommend to feed them through twosleeves (white plastic tube) in the tailwheel former (see photo). When thetail gear retracts these cables lengthen.Make sure that they cannot looparound the servo arm and lock up thetail wheel so that it isnt able to lockdown. We recommend to use a shortpiece of Tygon tubing to make thecables stiff in the servo arm area. Youcan also use springs or rubber bandsand pull them sideways to keep themunder tension. But be careful that therubber bands are not too strong. Thisresistance can also cause the tailgearto not lock down properly. If you wantto use a Y-lead for your tailwheel andrudder servo, you must cross over thetailwheel cables to get the samedirection of deflection as the rudder.

Rudder Fin:Take the vertical fin and slot its rootsurface according to the plywood sparpenetrating the fuselages fin fillet.Slide the horizontal stab panels on toconfirm the correct angle and glue thefin on to the fuselage. Sand thesurfaces with rough sand paper andclean with alcohol before you gluewith 30 min epoxy. As soon as theglue has set, mark the position of thetop hinge post by installing the ruddertemporarily. You can slide in the hingepin from the bottom side, but makesure that you can grip it with a pair ofpliers later to get it out again. Mill thetop surface of the fin to accept the tophinge post. There is only one hingepost installed to the rudder, so makesure that this post is mountedproperly. Glue in the plywood rib sothat the top surface of the 3mmphenolic hinge post is flush with the

Position of tail gearsteering servo andlocation for the pull/pull wires to the tailgear control horn.

Here you see thesprings mounted be-tween the tail gear andthe door control horns.

Process of installing the single rudder hinge post. Takegreat care because this is the only one...



corner of the fin. When the glue hasset, drill 2 3mm holes and install the 2M3 T-Nuts. Counter sink the holes inthe phenolic hinge post so that thescrew heads are flush with the poststop surface. Install the ruddertemporarily to see if movement issufficient. You can open the slot in therudder slightly to allow the deflectionyou desire.

Carry over the hole for the 10 mmtorsion linkage from the rudder to thefuselage. You can drill this hole 2 mmlarger in diameter, because you willinstall a ball bearing later, once theposition is perfectly determined. Takethe rudder off from the fin and glue inthe sockets/rails for the torsion linkage.Assemble the torsion linkage from theprepared parts, which you find in yourhardware bag, according to drawingand photos. Dont forget to install theball bearing with its plywood socket tothe rod. Dry fit the linkage to therudders receptacle and mounteverything to the fin/fuselage. Thenyou can glue the plywood bearingsocket into the fuselage. The torsionlinkage will remain in the fuselageforever, but you still can remove therudder for maintenance reasons, if youhave to. The rudder servo is mountedin the tail gear former assembly. Thepush push setup of the rudder linkagemakes a second support of the torsionlinkage obsolete. You will find that thetorsion linkage becomes fully definedand solid as soon as both pushrods areinstalled between torsion rod and servohorn.

Process of gluing therudder fin to the fuselageand installing the mainfin spar.



Stab/Elevator:First install the anti rotation pins tothe stab. Drill a 6mm hole into thefuselages stab fairing and the stabrootrib, wax the hole in the fuselagefairing, stick the 6mm carbon antirotation pin into the fuselage andapply 30 min epoxy on the outer part.Then slide the stabs on the tube andover the anti rotation pin, secure withtape and let the epoxy set. Aftersufficient time remove the stab, checkthe glue joint of the anti rotation pinand if necessary, fill the remaininggaps with glue.

Mill the slots for the hinge posts intothe stab surfaces spar. Shorten theinner hinge post so that it does notinterfere with the stab tube. Theelevators have to be attached to the

approx.45 mm

Use a couple of 0.8mm ply spacers wheninstalling the rudder torsion linkage finally.

Servo linkages as usual...

Drill 6mm, and then WAX the holeand the surface around!



stab surfaces while these areattached to the fuselage.Similar to the rudder, mill a12 mm hole into the root ribsof the stab fillet. Seedimensions on the photos onthe right. Dry fit stab withelevators to the fuselage. Usethe elevator torsion linkage(assembled according to thedrawing/photo) to align theelevators properly. Then gluethe hinge posts into the stabspar. Disassemble stabs andelevators and fill the jointswith 30 min epoxy, wherenecessary. Make sure thatthese hinge posts are gluedwell into the stab.

Now slide the ball bearingswith their plywood sockets onthe torsion linkage and gluethe plywood sockets into thefuselage. Use 30 min epoxyand sand the surfaces wellbefore applying glue. Mountstab/elevator assembly whileyou glue the bearing socketsin, and make sure theelevators move freely. Afterthe glue has set, drill 2 holesthrough the LEFT elevator/torsion linkage with 2.4 mmdiameter. Tap an M3 threadinto each hole, counter sinkthe screw head into theelevator from the bottom sideand mount both bolts. NOWdrill the holes for the oppositeRIGHT elevator, firstadjusting both trailing edgesexactly to the fillets on thefuselage (you can trust theincidence of this fillet 100%).Next tap these holes M3,countersink the bolt headsand install the bolts to see theresult of your work. In case

Center of torsion linkage is 38 mm behind rear edge of stab tube

Use 0.8mm plywood as spacers between the edges of the counterbalance surface of the elevator,to make sure nothing locks up.Make sure the root surface is matching the fillet with symmetri-cal gaps on both sides.

Insert 30 min epoxy throughthe root ribs to fill the joints ofthe hinge posts to the rear stabspar. Then place it verticallyuntil the resin has cured. Thatway it will not run off the joint.

Make sure thatthe torsionlinkage stays induring the wholejoining process.

Modify themarkedhinge poststo fit

38mm



something went wrongwith your drilling and yourelevators are not 100parallel, we have includeda second piece of carbonrod for a second attempt.Last but not least mark theposition of the stab tubeand the support rib in thestab and drill a 3 mm holethrough stab and tube fromthe bottom side. Do notdrill all the way through.Take the stabs off and gluean M3 T-nut into the tubeas a thread for the stabsecuring bolts. You cantrim that T-nut to fit bestinside the tube. Wax a longM3 bolt and screw it intothe nut during gluing sothat the thread stays cleanand vertical alignment ismaintained.

The result of your work isa beautifully clean rudderand elevator installation,without any visible controlhorns and linkages. Youare nearing the closingstages of your buildingwork, left is the front endof the plane.

The recom-mendedstandard isthe singleservoversion,asshown in thepics here.

Optionallyyou can use 2elevatorservos, forwhich youhave to splitthe torsionlinkage.

Drill with 3 mm (mark the position carefully and precisely) and then glue in an M3 T-nut



5. The front end.

The cowling has 3 fixing points. Eachfixing point consists of an aluminumtab, bolted to the fuselages firewallwith 2 M4 bolts, and a plywood tab,glued into the cowling, holding an M4T-nut, bolted against that aluminumtab. The idea behind this approach isto be able to access the mountingbolts from the rear of the cowlthrough the cooling air vents. If aradial engine is installed, access to thefirewall from the front is very limiteddue to the cylinders and the ringmuffler. Thus fixing the cowl from therear is very convenient. If you intendto install a twin cylinder gas engine,you can feel free to alter the cowlfixture and simplify the process,however, we recommend to use oursuggestion.

First glue on the firewall. One 3mmplywood is glued from the inside tothe firewall (use microballon filledepoxy to fill any gap due to the seamband inside) and one 3mm plywood isglued from the outside. This outsideplywood former is reinforced with asecond one, smaller in diameter,which you need to glue on as well.After the glue has set, tack the 3aluminum tabs to the firewall with adrop of thin CA glue. Use a balsastick along the fuselages outercontour to determine the position ofthe cowl, matching the position of themilled plywood mount to be gluedinside the cowling.

Now tape the cowl to the fuselage. Atthe top the rear surface butts againstthe fuselage. At the bottom you needto use some scrap balsa to create a jig,which you can tack in place with afew drops of CA. Make sure that thetop contour of the cowling is perfectlyin line with the fuselages contour,



and the rear edge is parallel to thefirewall. After the alignment is set andconfirmed, tack the milled plywoodmounts inside the cowl, so that theholes for the bolt match. Then you cantake the cowl off, fill the glue joints ofthe plywood tabs inside the cowlingwith epoxy and milled fibre, and werecommend to add a little bit offiberglass cloth from the front toreinforce the joint. Drill a 4mm holethrough the 2 inner holes of eachaluminum tab and through the firewall,then break the aluminum tabs off.Enlarge the holes in the firewall to5.5mm diameter, insert M4 T-nuts fromthe inside into the firewall and mountthe aluminum tabs permanently with 2M4 bolts. Now glue a T-Nut to eachaluminum tab from the front, lining upwith the outer hole. Sand the gluesurfaces well, degrease with alcohol andglue with a good epoxy, preferablyHysol or UHU Endfest 300. Wax an M4bolt and turn it into the nut to keep thethread free of glue. Alternatively: Glue ascrap piece of plywood from the frontagainst the plywood tabs in the cowl,enlarge the holes to 5.5mm diameterand install a T-nut the right way around.

Now its time to mount the engine, inour Instruction Manual we describe theinstallation of the Moki 250 5 cylinderradial. Please be aware that the enginediameter is not much smaller than thecowl diameter. So, centering the engineis crucial. First determine the centerpoint of the round firewall. The innerhole is a perfect circle, central to theouter contour. Thus it should be easy tocreate the center point. A right thrust of2.5 degree is recommended, so thecenter of the engine thrust line must bemoved to the left (viewed from the frontagainst the firewall) by 12 mm. 0.5 deg.upthust will be perfect. this and thesligthly nose down cowl, makes it 6 mmto the bottom.

12 mmleft

6 mmdown



After creating the center point for your thrust line, create a template of the bolt pattern of yourengine from cardboard (including the center point) and use this template to drill your holes. It isrecommended to drill one single hole first, and then mount the engine with one bolt only. Mountthe cowl and confirm that the engine position is correct. Set the right thrust with large spacers.Therefore you can use self tapping screws for the other mounting holes. Its not so easy with theMoki mount, because the mounting holes are in an irregular positon, due to the 5 cylinderlocations.You might have to check both the center of prop shaft and distance of each valve rockerto the inside of the cowl. If you find somethingoff, you still can move the mounting pattern ofthe engine and drill the other holes, then fill thewrongly drilled hole with a wood dowel and re-drill this hole in the corrected spot.

Using M5 T-nuts the correct way from the insideto mount your engine is not sufficient. Thesewill be pulled into the plywood over time andyour engine becomes lose. This can result infatal situations in flight. Please use largealuminum plates or washers and glue the T-nutsreversed on to these plates. They will distributethe load of the bolt better to the firewalls backside.

Now install the throttle servo and the ignitionunit inside the fuselage to the back of thefirewall. Of course there are plenty ofpossibilities how and where to install both, butplease be aware that you MUST make sure thatno wire or connector can rub against thefirewall, nor touch the hot cylinders, exhaustheaders or ring exhaust. Please take great care inperfecting your installation in this area. A smallmistake can result in the engine quitting inflight. We have experienced this ourselves. Nocable must go through the firewall without arubber grommet. If you think that a radial enginehas no or very little vibration, you are verywrong. The vibrations of a radial engine are ofdifferent nature than the vibrations of a gas twincylinder engine, but they are significant andshould not be ignored. Keep cables and wires asshort as possible, fix them inside the fuselagereliably so that they cannot lengthen or be pulledtowards the front. Test every wire that it canunder NO CIRCUMSTANCES reach a hotengine part. Last but not least, make sure that theignition unit is mounted as isolated as possible,keep batteries, receiver, servos, switches andpower leads as far away as possible.



6. Final wiring and fuel/air/hydraulic plumbing

The fuel tank installation is verystraight forward. First finish theinternal plumbing of the fuel tank asusual and then install it to the centerboard with Velcro. Fit the board intothe fuselage and glue it to the sidewalls. Reinforce with fiberglass band.

On the opposite side of this centerboard you can now install yourreceiver, Powerbox or DPSI, if youchose to use one. The switches can beinstalled so that they are accessiblethrough a hatch in the fuselage,charging sockets for receiver andignition battery as well. We suggest avery practical solution with the photoon the bottom of this page.

Aileron and flap servo extensions canbe soldered up using multi pinconnectors. Standard extension leadsof your radio manufacturer can alsobe used. For the outer wing servosyou will have to permanently installapproximately 50 cm (20") longextension wires into the center wing.Make sure that during the wingfolding procedure the outerconnectors cannot be disconnectedaccidentally. At the receivers side youcan use another short extension leadso that you dont have to plug theaileron/flap servo leads directly intothe receiver at every setup at theflying field. The long extensionpermanently installed in the centerwing can also incorporate a Y-harnessto the inner flap servo.

For elevator and rudder servos leadextensions can be hard wired orstandard extensions of your radio



manufacturer can be used. Use a Y-harness to connect the tail wheelsteering servo to the rudder(remember to cross over the pull/pullcables to synchronise the direction ofmovement).

Now prepare the wooden board to bemounted into the center wing. Gluethe wood rails along the edges to thebottom side of the center winglaminate. Then use 4 sheet metalscrews to mount the board to thesewooden rails, so that it remainsremovable for maintenance.Installation of all components is alsomuch easier when it is removed fromthe center wing.

First mount the air valves for retractsand gear doors. In our solution wehave introduced the use of 2 Jet-Tronic valves. Air plumbing isstraight forward, main gear and maingear doors can be permanentlyconnected, the cylinder for the tailwheel needs to be Td in with 2 quickdisconnectors. Please make sure thatall air lines are installed clean andtidy, so that you can trouble shooteasily if something is not workingcorrectly. Make sure that the colorcoding is clear, the UP line should bedifferent in color than DOWN line.Also keep in mind that you havesimilar 3mm Festo tubing to beinstalled for the wing fold. Pick thecolors carefully before you startplumbing.

Electronically you can connect the airvalves with a Y-harness into onereceiver channel. Please put a slowmotion function to the gear channel (4seconds UP and 1 second DOWN).Then program the switch pointsaccording to the valve instruction,retract valve close to the DOWNposition, gear door valve close to the



UP position. Therefore we suggest thefollowing: Set the travel of the gearchannel in your transmitter to 90 %each way. Program the switch pointsaccordingly. Then increase the travelagain to 100%. That way the valveswill always switch very reliablyexactly where and when you want.

Hydraulic setup for the wing folds isnext. First install servo, valve, pumpand accumulator as suggested on thephotos. It is important that you followthe setup and plumbing instructions ofthe hydraulic system manufacturer(Haeusl), which in case of systemupdates always will overrule theinstructions given in this manual. Thatthere is no side load on the hydraulicvalves piston, it needs to be installedon a rotating pin. We have included afew milled phenolic parts, which youcan use for the valve mount.

Now, permanently install thehydraulic lines from the cylinders tothe valve. Start on the pump side andleave the cylinder sides long andopen. The right/left UP-lines cometogether with a T-fitting (use only theblack push-in fittings) and push intoone connector at the valve block. TheDOWN lines with a T-fitting into theother connector at the valve block.The pump outlet is connected to thevalve where it is marked with in.The accumulator is connected parallelto the pump on the pressure side witha T push-in fitting. Both feed andreturn line can be Tygon. The feedline connects the long pickup tube inthe plastic bag with the pump and thereturn line connects the valves returnoutlet with the plastic bag.

We recommend to use Baby Oil ashydraulic medium. This is clean, non-toxic, not harmful to the skin, has no

Schematic drawing of hydraulic plumbing



color, no smell and can be cleaned up after a plumbing mishap easily.

Now take a look at the cylinder side of the hydraulic lines. The cylinders in the wing fold have3mm Festo Push-in fittings as well. The UP-side exits the cylinder at the back face.

First drill a hole into the root rib behind the top rear claw of the wing folds center wing mount.That is the best position to feed the hydraulic lines through. Make sure it is big enough so thatboth lines can slide through without resistance. When the wings move, these lines will have toslide a few cm in and out. Connect the DOWN line straight into the cylinder and strap the UP lineto the cylinder with cable ties, so that they will not bind or interfere with the carbon sockets in theouter wing panels. Then loop the UP line inside the aluminum frame to enter the cylinder straightfrom the rear. Please slide the wings on and off several times and make sure that no tube rubs or issqueezed or pinched inside the socket. Make sure that this is not the case in both UP and DOWNposition of the wing, as the cylinder moves up and down inside the socket during the folding cyclequite a bit.

We recommend NOT to fill any hydraulic oil until the plane is painted. An oil spill can reallycause a lot of trouble for the paint job later. After the plane is painted and completed, a spillmishap will not affect the strength and integrity of the wing structure. Baby Oil does lift off slowlybut surely, and it has no or only very little mechanical impact on the sandwich structure, the glueand the plywood. It will be an unpleasant experience, but not a disaster for the plane.

Still, we will describe the filling and priming procedure at this point. Come back to this chapterlater, after the plane is painted:

Disconnect the return line from the plastic bladder. Extend this return line with a 50 cm piece ofTygon tubing into a plastic cup placed beside or behind the center wing. Connect a piece of Tygontube to the return connector of the plastic bladder and fill it with baby oil. You should keep theoriginal container you purchased the baby oil in connected to the bladder. Or use a large syringe torefill the plastic bladder as the pump operates the cylinders the first time. Make sure that you donot get too much air into the plastic bladder.

We do the priming with the outer wing panels removed! Connect an air compressor and put 3-4bar of pressure into the accumulators back side. This keeps the operating pressure low for thefirst tests. Then connect the pump battery and immediately the pump should start running.Squeeze the bladder to get liquid to the pump right away, so that it doesnt run dry. Depending onthe valve and cylinder positions, the wing fold will travel to one end position and the pump willstop when the pressure in the system has reached the same pressure as inside the accumulator.Now turn the servo to move the valve to the other end position, and the wing folds should moveslowly to the opposite position. You will find that oil exits the return line, which hopefully still isfeeding into the plastic cup placed on the table outside the center wing

The pump will switch on and off during the operating cycle, trying to keep the operating pressurein the system constant. If movement is too slow, increase the pressure in the accumulator by oneor two bar. You should not need more than 4 bar, though, when the outer wing panels are notmounted, to move the cylinders between their end positions. Cycle the wing fold several times.Make sure that you refill the plastic bladder after every cycle. Thats why we recommend to keep a



large syringe (or the original container) full of baby oil connected to the bladder permanently.Watch the return line and the plastic cup, as it will fill quickly with every cycle.

When no air bubbles are visible in the return line during the cycles, connect the return line to thebladder. Make sure the bladder is air free. It should be filled with oil approx. 25mm (1") thick.

Then cycle the system a few more times, trying to logically imagine possible air pockets in thecylinders, moving and turning the complete center wing to try to get the air pockets placed right infront of the cylinders tube fittings, forcing them out of the return lines during the cycles. This airwill collect in the bladder and must be released as the final step of the priming procedure. After allair is out slide both outer wing panels on, secure them with the fixing bolts and increase operatingpressure to 6 bar. Then cycle the system again to test the speed of movement. Ideally, the pumpshould operate in 1 second intervals, switching on and off during the cycle. If the pump runsconstantly during the cycle, reduce the pressure in the accumulator. If the cylinders do not safelyreach the end positions, especially in the DOWN position, increase the pressure in theaccumulator. If the pump switches on and off in 1-second intervals approximately, you have foundthe correct operating pressure.



7. Paint and Finish

The surface of your Corsair with its silver top coat is almost ready to apply the final paint. Use aScotchBrite pad to roughen the surface slightly, just so that it breaks the shiny gloss. Use someacetone or denaturized alcohol to clean the surface and remove any grease. Then tape off allexternally visible components or openings to protect the inside from any overspray. Of course,remove engine and landing gear if you can. Do not use any primer!

Apply your scheme with any kind of 2 component polyurethane paint or base coat laquer. Aftercuring you should apply all trims and decals, before you finally shoot a very thin layer of flat clearcoat (or glossy, if the full scale plane youre replicating is a restored and shiny bird).

Now you can scratch the panel lines with a screw driver or steel ruler, chip color off the leadingedge areas and around rivets and hatches, if you want to create a scale patina on your plane. Thesilver top coat of the fiberglass parts will shine through and look like beat up aluminum. Finallyuse a pad of ScotchBrite and rub the surface in flight direction. Add a little dust of black charcoalpowder while youre doing this. The rest of patina will come by time

Cut and shape the vacuum formed radiator intake details,paint and glue them in. Use some tape to grip and pullthem firmly from inside against the radiator inlet

After trimming and paintingthe canopy frame, you needto fit the clear canopy to theinside, preferrably in two pieces, front and rear. Use ZAPcanopy glue or 30 min epoxy. It is very important that youtape the canopy on to the fuselage during curing, so that itstays in undistorted shape.



8. Preflight Check and First Flight

This Scale-Aircraft is a high-end product and can create an enormous risk for both pilot andspectators, if not handled with care, and used according to the instructions. Make sure that youoperate your Corsair according to the AMA rules, or those laws and regulations governing themodel flying in the country of use. The engine, servos and control surfaces have to be attachedproperly. Please use only the recommended engines, servos, propellers, and accessories suppliedin the kit. Make sure that the Centre of Gravity is located in the recommended place. Use thenose heavy end of the CG range for your first flights, before you start experimenting with movingthe CG back. If you find that you need to relocate your batteries or even add weight in the aircraftto move the CG to the recommended position, please do so and dont try to save weight or hassle.A tail heavy plane, in a first flight, can be an enormous danger for you and all spectators. Fix anyweights, and heavy items like batteries, very securely to the plane.

Make sure that the plane is secured properly when you start the engine. Have at least 2 helpershold your plane from the tail end or from behind the wing tips, before you start the engine. Makesure that all spectators are behind, or far in front, of the aircraft when running up the engine. Makesure that you range check your R/C system thoroughly before the first flight. It is absolutelynecessary to range check your complete R/C installation first WITHOUT the engine running.Leave the transmitter antenna retracted and check the distance you can walk before fail-safeoccurs. Then start up the engine, run it at about half throttle and repeat this range check with theengine running. Make sure that there is no range reduction before fail-safe occurs. Only thenmake the 1st flight. If you feel that the range with engine running is less then with the engine off,please contact the radio supplier and the engine manufacturer and DONT FLY at this time. If youfly with 2.4 GHz technology, please follow the radio manufacturers instructions for rangechecking. Always check range before a flying session!

After starting your engine the first time, check for vibrations through the whole throttle range. Theengine should run smoothly with no unusual vibration. If you think that there are any excessivevibrations at any engine rpms, DONT FLY at this time and check your engine, spinner andpropeller for proper balancing. Please follow the engine manufacturers run-in recommendationsand make sure that the engine is ran-in properly before you attempt the first flight.

The light- weight sandwich composite parts dont like too much vibration and they can sufferdamage. The low mass of all the parts results in a low physical inertia, so that any excessvibrations can affect the servos and linkages. Check that the M3 bolts retaining the horizontalstablizers on to the aluminium tube are installed and tight, and that the hinge wires for the rudder,elevators and ailerons cannot come out. Make sure that your main and stab tubes are not damaged.If you have the wing fold version, make sure that the wings lock smoothly in the down positionand that the wings are securely attached with the 4 bolts. Test cycle the folding sequence severaltimes while the engine is running and make sure that the down-lock is always safe.

A special note if the Moki 215 or Moki 250 radial is used: Please make sure that no electric wirecan touch any hot component of the engine. All wires should be protected by additional spiraltubing and should be fixed with cable ties on to the firewall. Any rubbing of wires needs to beprevented by using rubber grommets where they are fed through the firerwall. Do not assume thata radial engine runs without vibration. A radial engine with a single sided counter balance on thecrank shaft does have very noticable vibrations, which seem softer than the vibrations of a



single or twin cylinder gas engine, but they are just as abrasive to any rubbing components.

Check the retract system for reliable function. You should be able to cycle the gear at least 3times, after the gear was retracted for 10 minutes. Please take the time to confirm that the airsystem is not leaking. Depending on the many different possibilities for air leaks, the air systemmight seem perfectly sealed when the gear is down, but when the gear is up, a leak might show.

Make sure that all screws and bolts on the landing gear have been tightened and checked. We relyon the QC-procedures of our subcontractor Sierra Giant Scale and do NOT check the landinggear equipment before it is sent to you. Please, out of your own interest, please check every boltand if necessary, secure it with Locktite or similar. Check the safe function of the gear before youinstall it permanently in the wing.

On the hydraulic system for the wing fold, please use ONLY T-Fittings which grab the tube fromthe outside, such as Festo Push-In Tees. An oil spill is not only very time consuming to clean up,it might ultimately be a high risk for the wing fold system to fail in flight.

If you have carefully checked all the points above and followed our advice exactly, youll have asafe and successful first flight - and many hours of pleasure with your CARF-Models Corsair.

Important Note: NEVER attempt to take off with full power, especially when you use powerfulengines like a Moki 250. The plane might nose over and this might create expensive damage.Under full throttle you will not be able to keep the tail down using the recommended low rateelevator settings. Always take off with 50% power only, retract the gear and then trottle up to acomfortable speed. You must manage your throttle stick.responsibly. Your CARF-Models F4U-1DCorsair CAN BE DESTROYED in the air if you exceed speeds of 200 km/h (125 mph)noticably! Fly scale!

Do not take off with flaps deployed and be careful to get used to the very powerful flap authorityduring landing approaches. We recommend to use a maximum flap setting of 30 deg. for a smoothelevator control during landing approaches. This is because the huge flaps can cause weakelevator response during slow speed. In any case, the Corsair wants to be landed tail up, thatmeans, with a fairly horizontally aligned fuselage. A touch down attempt on 3 wheels will mostlikely end in a quite challenging situation.

Important Values:

Center of Gravity: 10-12 mm (1/2) in front of main spar, when looked from the top

Aileron Deflection: 20 mm up, 15 mm down

Elevator Deflection: 20 mm up, 20 mm down (only for take off a higher up-rate of up to 35 mm is allowed)

Rudder Deflection: 70 mm each side

Flap Deflection: max. 45 degree, practically useful are 35 degree.



wing bagfuselage bag rudder bagelevator bag

Hardware bag No2 (every version)

Hardware bag No1 (factory-installed in ARF planes)

Wing fold system complete (partially installed in ARF planes)

Included Hardware

Plug-In wing version (791000)

This kit includes: hardware bag No1,and No2, plus 4 wing tubes. Alsoincluded are 1x fuselage bag, 1x wingbag, 1x rudder bag and 1x elevatorbag.

Wing Fold Kit Version (792000)

This kit includes hardware bag No1,and No2, plus the complete wing foldsystem. Also included are 1x fuselagebag, 1x wing bag, 1x rudder bag and1x elevator bag.

Wing Fold ARF Version (793000)

This kit includes hardware bag No2,the hydraulic components from thecomplete wing fold system, as wellas1x fuselage bag, 1x wing bag, 1xrudder bag and 1x elevator bag.Hardware bag No1 and the mechani-cal parts of the wing fold system arealready installed in the factory.

corsair instructionmanual

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