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Actes du 25e Congrès International de l’AFM – Londres, 14 et 15 mai 2009
Consumer value and the determinants for optimal click-and-mortar
strategies: the case of the menswear clothing industry in Canada
Paul McELHONE, Ph.D.
University of Alberta School of Business
Olivier BADOT, Ph.D.
Professor
ESCP Europe
Alison YACYSHYN, Ph.D.
Visiting Assistant Professor
University of Alberta
Actes du 25e Congrès International de l’AFM – Londres, 14 et 15 mai 2009
La valeur de consommateur et les déterminants pour les stratégies de “click-and-
mortar”: le cas de la confection spécialisés des hommes au Canada
Résumé (FR):
Cette recherche tente d‟identifier les déterminants de la valeur pour le consommateur et pour
l‟offreur dans les stratégies click-and-mortar mises en suivre par les distributeurs et ce, à partir
du cas de la distribution de vêtements pour hommes au Canada. La construction d‟un cadre
théorique a permis la génération d‟un corps d‟hypothèses testé grâce à la triangulation de
résultats d‟une enquête en ligne auprès de consommateurs (n = 648), d‟entretiens avec des
témoins privilégiés et de donnés primaires sur les trois enseignes étudiées. Il en ressort que les
stratégies click-and-mortar créent plus de valeur pour le consommateur que les seules stratégies
brick-and-mortar ou pure click et que des sites riches en image, en information sur les produits et
sur les prix permettent de valoriser leur processus d'achat.
Les clés: consommateur, valeur, click-and-mortar, vêtements des hommes, Internet
Consumer value and the determinants for click-and-mortar strategies: the case of the
menswear clothing industry in Canada
Abstract (EN):
This research examines consumer perceptions of value, to understand the determinants for click-
and-mortar strategies in contemporary retail settings. The unit of analysis is the specialty
menswear clothing industry in Canada. An axiological investigation establishes a contemporary
theory of value. Two hypotheses assess the consumer value paradigms between brick-and-mortar,
click-and-mortar, and pure click formats. Online survey data from three cases (N=648) represent
the Canadian specialty menswear industry. A triangulation analysis of the data suggest that click-
and-mortar strategies create more value for consumers than either brick-and-mortar or pure click
strategies. Consumers also value content rich websites containing images, product information,
and prices.
Key-words: consumer, value, click-and-mortar, menswear, Internet
Actes du 25e Congrès International de l’AFM – Londres, 14 et 15 mai 2009
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1. Introduction
The motivation for retailers to become more sophisticated online reveals how vital the
Internet has become to small businesses (Richmond, 2006). Consumers expect professional,
efficient, engaging (Pine, & Gilmore, 1998) and secure sites (Noteberg, Christiaanse &
Wallage, 2003) and they also expect access to easy-to-use search engines. Retailer size
should not be a deterrent when developing a retail strategy (Ashworth, & al., 2006), as the
online technology is not dependent on retailer size or specialty.
Consumers are challenging companies to make online technology work the way they
(consumers) want it to work (Jang, 2004). They increasingly put more value in access to
knowledge, speed and ease of use (Rutter, & Southerton, 2000), and 24/7 connectivity. It is
through the use of technology that retailers are driving the new dimensions of differentiation
(MacMillan & McGrath, 1967). The Internet gives retailers the ability to provide customers
with levels of just-in-time product knowledge (Zeithaml, 2002), access to merchandise, and
service offerings never before realized (Singer, 2006). Consumers save time as they
communicate with sales associates via e-mail allowing for 24/7 communication (Marche,
2004). The growing body of e-commerce research has shown that retailers are increasingly
following a click-and-mortar strategy, whereby online and offline channels are becoming
more integrated (Steinfield & al., 2005).
"The value paradigms are changing, and service quality delivery through websites is
an essential strategy to success, possibly more important than low price and Web
presence” (Zeithaml & al., 2002).
2. Purpose
The menswear industry in Canada is well established and very competitive. Increasingly
specialty retailers are looking for ways to create value for consumers and in turn co-create
value (Normann, 2000) for themselves (the specialty retailers) that will result in repeat
business, referrals and sustained profitability (Best, 2005). The specialty retailers hold a
unique position in retail as they foster different relationships with customers than other types
of retailers do. The purpose of the research is to investigate and review the internal electronic
touch point processes for delivering quality service, and to examine the need for creating
consumer experiences that are both engaging and memorable (Pine & Gilmore, 1998) for
specialty menswear retailing in Canada.
Actes du 25e Congrès International de l’AFM – Londres, 14 et 15 mai 2009
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3. Methodology – Value
The use of the term ‘value’ and the study of ‘axiology’ has been a source of interest for
academics, economists since the seventeenth century, marketers (Payne, 2006) and retailers
(Grnak & al., 2006). As a term, ‘value’ has evolved through the centuries to reflect not only
key economical thought, but also sociological conditions (Denzin, 1978). The challenge for
any researcher is framing the term value within some meaningful context reflective of the
temporal reference point. Once economists moved from a mercantile belief that all value lay
in the wealth of the state to an understanding of value as output, the stage had been set for an
evolution of the term that continues today. Most notably, Holbrook saw value as a
“relativistic preference experience” that “shapes the design of the Marketing Strategy”
(Holbrook, 1999, p.9).
Extrinsic Intrinsic
Self-Oriented Active EFFICIENCY
(O/I Convenience)
PLAY
(Fun)
Reactive EXCELLENCE
(Quality)
AESTHETICS
(Beauty)
Table 1: Holbrook’s Self-Oriented Dimensions of Value
Holbrook’s ‘self-oriented’ dimensions of efficiency, play and aesthetics underpin the
specialty consumer’s value proposition, particularly when using electronic touchpoints1.
Research by Normann and Ramirez (2000) suggests that retailers and consumers need to
devise a strategy that would see them working together to co-create value. The alignment of
goods, services, supplier support, and customer experience creates a strong corporate brand
for the retailer and a brand community for the channel members (McAlexander, Schouten &
Koenig, 2002). There is a sense of assumed loyalty among the members (Fullerton, 2005) and
1 The focus of this paper is primarily based on ‘self-oriented’ dimensions of value. An examination of ‘other oriented’ dimensions of value will set the stage for further research.
Actes du 25e Congrès International de l’AFM – Londres, 14 et 15 mai 2009
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the value proposition for the retailer is translated into repeat sales and increased profit
(Kumar & al., 2006).
4. Methodology – The TouchPoint theory of Value
The relationships (and channels) between consumers and retailers has become steadily more
complex since William Petty’s (1685) earliest discussions of value. Technology has turned
availability into the new 24/7 value reality. Consumers and retailers create value for each
other through numerous optional communication and shopping TouchPoints, allowing for a
bilateral power system (Bonoma, 1976). Consumers now get to choose goods and services on
their terms. The memorable and engaging quality of the experience is a gauge by which the
consumer can measure his or her value. The retailer, on the other hand, has created value for
himself because he is perceived as being up-to-date and savvy, earning the right of the
customer’s loyalty. Touchpoints of value can be categorized as either “mortar” and/or “click”
driven.
5. Methodology – Triangulation
The multi-method approach of triangulation is used to enrich analysis of diverse measures.
Yin (2003, p.98) noted that “any finding or conclusion in a case study is likely to be much
more convincing and accurate if it is based on several different sources of information.” For
Bonoma (1985), multiple data sources in themselves serve as a form of “perceptual
triangulation” distinguishing the case method from other research methods. Through data and
methodological triangulation, completeness (McGrath, 1982), confirmation and contingency
(Jack, 2006) are considered.
Post-positivism recognizes the need for multiple measures and the use of triangulation as a
method of ‘verifying’ or ‘falsifying’ hypotheses. “Conclusions are drawn by way of logical
deduction. These conclusions are then compared with one another and with other relevant
statements, so as to find what logical relations (such as equivalence, derivability,
compatibility, or incompatibility) exist between them” (Popper, 2002, p.9). If conclusions
turn out to be acceptable, or verified, then the theory has passed the test (for the time being)
and it is said to be ‘corroborated’. The multi-method strategy is used in this research,
although the data from the survey focusing on consumers of specialty menswear retailers is
presented and discussed.
Actes du 25e Congrès International de l’AFM – Londres, 14 et 15 mai 2009
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6. Research Questions and Hypotheses
A review of customer value literature (Ulaga 2006, Best 2005, Lavenberg 2005, Aurier,
Evard, & N’Goala 2004, Adelaar 2004, Holbrook 1999, Woodruff 1997) and in particular the
dimensions of value as efficiency, play, excellence, and aesthetics (Holbrook 1999) forms a
basis for establishing research questions and hypotheses. The interchangeable ‘click’ and/or
‘pure click’ and/or ‘pure player’ platform defines those business models in which a company
only has an online presence (i.e. the exchange of goods and services is exclusively based on
the Internet). The pressure consumer-driven markets are putting on retailers for access to
information and products redefine the contemporary value proposition. Multiple touch points
give firms a competitive advantage, or at least are keeping them competitive. The broader
research questions stemming from the consumer-driven markets include whether there are
customers that only prefer to shop online? Can the search, select, and service dimensions of
the retailing paradigm be completed seamlessly in pure click formats? Do click-and-mortar
business models have an advantage in creating more value for consumers? From these broad
questions, a hypothesis is formulated. The first hypothesis presented here examines the value
relationship between ‘click-and-mortar’ and ‘click’ formats for consumers (and is stated as):
H1: A ‘click-and-mortar’ strategy creates more value than a ‘click’ (pure player) strategy for
consumers.
The introduction of ‘click’ strategies gives consumers unprecedented access to information
about products and services, company history, philanthropic activities, job opportunities, and
other customers’ feedback and like interests (brand communities). Traditional menswear
shopping environments are dominated by very tactile experiences in brand-driven opulent
shopping environments. So, within the specialty menswear environment, the value for the
consumer is measured within an experiential context. As a result, this research asks, whether
‘click’ strategies give the consumer a richer experience? Even if the consumer expects that
his/her retailer of choice will have a web presence and email access, and even if they (the
consumer) themselves are high frequency users of technology, will they (the consumer) see
value in embracing technology as part of the retail experience? The second hypothesis
considers consumer value within the context of click-and-mortar strategies versus brick-and-
mortar strategies and is stated as: H2: A click-and-mortar strategy creates more value than a
brick-and-mortar strategy for consumers.
Actes du 25e Congrès International de l’AFM – Londres, 14 et 15 mai 2009
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7. Survey Design
A series of dichotic and open ended questions were created to gather information regarding
the consumer’s perception of value. The target sample set was males between 25 and 55 years
of age with an annual income of more than $50K per annum. Respondents from an
independent specialty menswear retailer, a regional specialty menswear retailer and a national
specialty menswear retailer were targeted as representative of the menswear specialty
industry in Canada. With consistent findings between these retailers, the sample set is
considered generalizable. Subjects were recruited from customer databases and through radio
solicitation. Feedback from the participating retailers resulted in modification and
simplification of the original survey. Appendix 1 is a copy of the final survey.
8. Results
The results of this paper are based on a study where 648 respondents (consumers) were
surveyed using an online questionnaire. The following table identifies specific demographic
characteristics of the sample used in this research.
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Variables Values N %
AGE 20-30 112 17.4
31-40 182 28.2
41-50 181 28.1
51-60 129 20.0
AGE groups in years (N=645)
61+ 41 6.4
EDUCATION High School 39 6.1
College 74 11.5
University 264 41.2
EDUCATION level (N=641)
Graduate 264 41.2
CONTACT <50/month 346 69.2
>100/month 4 0.8
monthly CONTACT /communicate via
Internet/ email with the specialty menswear
retailer (N=500) 0/month 150 30.0
ACCESS <100/month 125 25.2
monthly ACCESS the Internet and/or
communicate by email (N=497) >100/month 372 74.8
Seldom 10 1.5
Occasional 19 2.9
USER USER of the Internet and email (N=647)
Frequent 618 95.5
Table 2: Respondents Demographic Characteristics
The greatest number of respondents in this research falls between the ages of 31 and 50 and
this distribution is appropriate for menswear clothing purchases. Although respondents’
income levels were not specifically asked, the higher numbers of university and graduate
educated customers in the sample, suggests the data is consistent with the normative income
of consumers of specialty menswear retailers (of $50,000 + per annum). Similarly, the
majority of the respondents in the sample reported on a monthly basis they have some
contact/communication via Internet/email with the specialty menswear retailer. Also, the
majority of respondents report that they are a high user of the Internet and communicating by
email and consider themselves to be ‘frequent’ users of the Internet.
Actes du 25e Congrès International de l’AFM – Londres, 14 et 15 mai 2009
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Variables Values N %
IMPORTANCE Not answered 81 12.6
Yes 372 57.8
No 170 26.4
Importance for the specialty menswear
retailer to have a website (N=644)
Not sure 21 3.3
COMBINATION No 205 36.3
Yes 329 58.3
Maybe 5 0.9
The combination of retail locations and
access to a website adds more value
(N=564)
NA 25 4.4
TRADITIONAL No 282 49.0
Yes 227 39.5
Maybe 4 0.7
Traditional forms of communication
are more important than using the
specialty menswear retailer web site or
being contacted by email (N=575) Not Sure 62 10.8
VALUE Access to Internet 37 6.4
Face to Face 434 75.1
Both 82 14.2
What gives more customer value
(online/email, face-to-face, both
online/email, other, NA/I don't know)
(N=578) Not sure 25 4.3
Table 3: Customers and Specialty Menswear Retailer Websites2
The majority of respondents report that it is important for a retailer to have a website. The
majority of respondents feel that click-and-mortar strategies add more value. Traditional
forms of communication (newspapers, catalogues, etc.) are not more important than using the
specialty menswear retailer web site or being contacted by email. The results suggest that the
respondents seem to have accepted technology as a preferred form of communication (from
the specialty menswear retailer). Overall, the majority of respondents in this research feel that
face-to-face interaction gives more customer value (than online/email, both online/email, or
other interaction forms). The strong response in favour of face-to-face interaction suggests
that brick-and-mortar is a stronghold in this retail sector. However, about 14 percent of
2 The responses to the “why?” question(s) have provided rich data for further qualitative analysis and results will be presented in future papers.
Actes du 25e Congrès International de l’AFM – Londres, 14 et 15 mai 2009
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respondents feel that both access-to-Internet and face-to-face provides more customer value.
This suggests that an emerging trend for customers to find value in a combination of face-to-
face and access to the Internet. Consumers and retailers in specialty retail environments are
migrating from a brick-and-mortar formats based on personal relationships (Peppers &
Rogers, 2004; Ulaga, 2003; Bitner, 1995; Dwyer et al., 1987), memorable experiences
(Backstrom & Johansson, 2006; Mathwick & Malhotra, 2002; Pine, & Gilmore, 1998;
Holbrook & Corfman, 1983) and value propositions that are historically driven by the
perceived quality of products (Teas & Agarwal, 2000 SteenKamp, 1989), customer service
(Parasuraman, 2002; Duckler, 2001; Zeithaml, 2000), and/or price proposition (Olshavsky,
Aylesworth, & Kempf, 1995; Zeithaml, 1988). Overall, a large percentage, 58.3 percent, of
respondents feels that the combination of retail locations and access to a website adds more
value for the customer.
When respondents were asked to explain why they are a loyal customer of the menswear
retailer, an open ended question revealed the following results as presented in Table 4.
I am a loyal customer of the menswear retailer because of the… N=648 %
Brands/style/labels/fashion 39 6.02
Selection 60 9.26
Quality 115 17.75
Service/custom fitting/professionalism/advice 259 39.97
Staff 160 24.69
Location 20 3.09
Relationships 40 6.17
Other 116 17.90
Product 105 16.20
I am not a loyal customer 96 14.81
I work there 1 0.15
I heard the radio ad 8 1.23
Table 4: Customer Loyalty
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The terms used by respondents to explain why they are loyal to the menswear retailer clearly
identify service/custom fitting/professionalism/advice as a top choice.
When respondents were asked to explain why they shop at the menswear retailer, an open
ended question revealed the following results as presented in Table 5.
I shop at the menswear store because of the … N=648 %
Reputation 8 1.23
Environment 13 2.01
Convenience 12 1.85
Location 19 2.93
Brands/labels/style/fashion 99 15.28
Selections 112 17.28
Variety 7 1.08
Relationships 31 4.78
Staff 118 18.21
Quality 245 37.81
Product 180 27.78
Service/advice/professionalism/custom fitting 222 34.26
Other 94 14.51
I work there 0 0.00
I heard the radio ad 13 2.01
I do not shop there 57 8.80
Table 5: Customer Shopping Behaviours
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The terms used by respondents to explain why they shop at the menswear retailer
demonstrate that no consistent value proposition for all retailers, it varies by specific retail
format and strategies.
When respondents were asked to explain why they like the menswear retailer website, an
open ended question revealed the following results as presented in Table 6.
I like the menswear retailer website because of the… N=648 %
Look/layout/design/mature/simple/trendy 78 12.04
Colors 7 1.08
NA/don't know what I like about the website/I've never been to it 292 45.06
Information/promos/emails 84 12.96
Ease of use/navigation/interactive/quick loading most 35 5.40
Nothing 25 3.86
Tips 32 4.94
Other 28 4.32
Table 6: Customer Likeness of Retailer Website
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For the open ended question asking respondents to explain why they like the menswear
retailer website, each retailer exhibits different descriptives by the customer respondents. The
responses regarding the like of the menswear retailer website are heavily weighted to
informational content in a website that is well designed visually. The results of the Table 6
are consistent with those of Szymanski & Hise (2002) and Bergeron (2001). When
respondents were asked to explain what they would like to see added to the menswear
website, an open ended question revealed the following results as presented in Table 7.
What would you like to see added to the menswear website… N =648 %
Tips (grooming, dressing, etc) 27 4.17
Pictures 84 12.96
Links to specific sales associates 6 0.93
Links to brand websites 11 1.70
Fashion articles 4 0.62
Coupons 6 0.93
Prices 33 5.09
Trends 21 3.24
Online shopping 35 5.40
Product descriptions/information 53 8.18
Other 105 16.20
NA/I don't know 246 37.96
Nothing should be added 26 4.01
Table 7: Customer Wants in a Website
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For the open ended question asking respondents to explain what they would like to see added
to the menswear website, the respondents clearly would like to see pictures, online shopping,
and product descriptions/information added to the current menswear retailer website(s).
When respondents were asked to explain why they dislike the menswear retailer website, an
open ended question revealed the following results as presented in Table 8.
What is liked least about the menswear website … N=648 %
Lack of content 99 15.28
No prices 20 3.09
No online ordering 17 2.62
Website is too basic 16 2.47
Lack of links 5 0.77
Website doesn't work properly 12 1.85
Flash on the website 14 2.16
Not user friendly 14 2.16
Staticness 39 6.02
NA/don't know what I dislike about the retailer's website/I've never been
to it 280 43.21
Other 39 6.02
Dislike nothing 95 14.66
Table 8: Customer Dislikes of Websites
For the open ended question asking respondents to explain why they dislike the menswear
retailer website, each retailer exhibits different descriptives by the customer respondents. The
respondents clearly do not like the lack of content, the staticness, and the flash on the
menswear retailer website.
With the opened ended question asking respondents to explain why they dislike the
menswear retailer website, additional statistical analysis is presented here as to why the
consumers dislike the staticness of the specialty menswear retailer website. Rather than
focusing on open-ended responses, the consumers' demographic characteristics (education
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level, retailer, age group) are considered in the relationship and presented in Table 9. Several
other regression models were conducted; however, the following model contained the largest
R-Square value and continuity from the results presented in the open-ended questions.
Disliking the staticness of the specialty menswear retailer website
Coefficient Standard
Error
t Sig.
Retailer3 -.223 .017 -12.816 .000
Age Group -.026 .008 -3.130 .002
Education Level .014 .012 1.171 .242
constant .692 .062 11.188 .000
Sample N 648
R .505
R Square .255
Adjusted R Square .250
Standard Error of the
Estimate
.223
Table 9: Regression model of disliking the staticness of the specialty menswear retailer website
The regression model of disliking the staticness of the specialty menswear retailer website, on
select characteristics (retailer and age) is statistically significant. Although, the retailer, age
group are significant, the education level of the respondent is not significant. The R value is
moderate (.505). The R value is moderately strong (.505); it is significant in explaining the
relationship between the model and the dependent variable. The R square, relatively explains
25.5 percent of the variation in the model. The staticness on menswear retailer website is
disliked by consumers and retailers must contend with these results to be effective in the click
realm.
3 The retailer variable is representative of specialty menswear in Canada. For statistical analysis, retailers in this research were specific to select specialty stores. For anonymity the data are presented in aggregate form.
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9. Discussion
Using the overall survey results, the analysis is suggestive of three contemporary theoretical
generalizations. Firstly, the data suggests that customers receive significant value from brick-
and-mortar retail environments. One-to-one relationships, face-to-face shopping experiences,
and professional and corporate retail environments are all considered of value. Secondly,
consumers consider click-and-mortar retail formats to give them more value than brick-and-
mortar. Accessing the Internet for general information, pictures, and product information are
considered important and a large percentage of customers feel that retailers should have a
web presence, even if they (customers) choose not to use it. Thirdly, there is no significant
evidence that a pure click retail experience is of value. Table 10 highlights the combinations
of value suggested by the three contemporary theoretical generalizations
Combinations Customer Retailer
Combination 1
(brick-and-mortar) + +
Combination 2
(click-and-mortar) +/+ +/-
Combination 3
(pure click) - -
Table 10: Combinations of Value Orientation
Overall, the results incorporate results specific to the specialty menswear retail industry in
Canada and to the discussion of value in general. In the brick-and-mortar combination, the
data suggests that customers receive significant value from brick-and-mortar retail
environments. One-to-one relationships, face-to-face shopping experiences, and professional
and corporate retail environments were all considered of value. With click-and-mortar
strategies consumers consider click-and-mortar retail formats to give them more value than
brick-and-mortar. Accessing the Internet for general information, pictures, and product
information are considered important and a large percentage of customers feel that retailers
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should have a web presence, even if they (customers) choose not to use it. There was no
significant evidence that a pure click retail experience is of value.
10. Limitations
Some limitations of this research include the survey design from the questionnaire design (the
measurement of value, and other measures) and technological changes. The meaning of the
term ‘value’ included many different subjective responses for the customers (particularly in
the open-ended question formats). ‘Value’ itself, in the broader sense of the term and not
specifically used by consumers, has been subjected to constant evolution and reinterpretation,
which is problematic in evaluation and analysis. The customers were surveyed (via an online
survey) limiting responses to those with access to email and the Internet. The ease of
navigation and internet speed were not assessed pose an opportunity for further research.
Incorporating consumers who do not use the Internet in this research area will provide
valuable information and should also be included in further research.
Even with the limitations in this research, it is evident that advances in technology are
changing the way consumers, retailers, suppliers, and the world communicates. The
advancements in technology are transforming the communication paradigm and both
consumers and retailers are adapting, creating new opportunities for shared experiential value
relationships.
11. Conclusions
The examination of the term ‘value’ is historically rich and complex, a contemporary view of
consumers' perceptions of value within multi-communication channels and more specifically
within the specialty menswear industry in Canada contributes to the foundational
understanding, as it updates the research area. Overall, the data presented from this study
suggests that specialty consumers derive more value from ‘click-and-mortar’ strategies than
they do from either ‘brick-and-mortar’ or ‘pure click’ formats and retailers must consider
these strategies while adapting to contemporary markets.
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Appendices
Appendix 1 – Customer survey
Survey Questions4 1. Within the context of your relationship with <the specialty menswear retailer>, how
would you define value for you as a customer? 2. Do you feel it is important for specialty menswear retailers to have an online
presence? Why? 3. What do you like most about <the specialty menswear retailer> website?
What do you like least about <the specialty menswear retailer> website? What would you like to see added to <the specialty menswear retailer> website? Why?
4. How have you benefited from the fact that <the specialty menswear retailer> has a
website? 5. Does the fact that <the specialty menswear retailer> has both retail locations as well
as a website add more value for you as a customer than only having retail locations? 6. Do you feel that having access to a retailer with both retail locations and a website
adds more customer value for you than purely shopping online with companies such as www.bluefly.com ? Why?
7. Do you feel that <the specialty menswear retailer> could offer you more value
without an online presence? Why?
8. Do you feel that <the specialty menswear retailer> ability to offer you both face-to-face shopping environments as well as access to a website has added more value to you as a customer? How?
9. What gives you more customer value: having access to the Internet or shopping face-
to-face? Why?
4 Respondents were given customized surveys that specifically named their affiliated specialty menswear retailer (either an independent specialty menswear retailer, a regional specialty menswear retailer, or a national specialty menswear retailer).