zero waste menswear

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Z E R O WASTE M E N S W E A R

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Zero Waste Menswear portfolio presentation

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Page 1: Zero Waste Menswear

Z E R OW A S T EM E N S W E A R

Page 2: Zero Waste Menswear

A design-research project aiming to develop a zero-waste menswear product range, focusing strongly on usability, durability and lifestyle integration.

Durable construction, technical fabrics and innovative CAD pattern-design. Familiar, usable garments with a fresh, efficient approach.

↓ Patterns for overcoat, suit jacket and suit trouser (left to right).

→ Lookbook outfit photo-shoot.

Includes a modular outerwear system and a mix of traditional and modern weather-proof fabrics for optimal accessibility, durability and functionality.

A clean, technical take on zero-waste design, aiming to demonstrate a proof of concept for contemporary, ethical menswear design.

Page 3: Zero Waste Menswear
Page 4: Zero Waste Menswear

SUITTROUSERS

1

On average, around 15% of the fabric used in a traditionally produced garment is wasted when the pattern is cut out.

The zero waste design process starts with reducing the garment to it’s core components, and carefully redesigning it.

The final garment retains all functionality of it’s traditional equivalent, without producing any of the fabric wastage.

SCALE DO NOTDESTROY

MASTER

DO NOT ALTER DO NOT CUTFOR REPRODUCTIONFOR REFERENCE

32

↓ A brief explanation of the zero waste design process.

↘ Exploded diagram of the trouser, showing belt loops and fastenings

→ Trouser construction diagram.

Page 5: Zero Waste Menswear

TROUSER CONSTRUCTION

1

2

3

5 6

4

With a pattern as simple as the one shown above, many different styles can be produced simply by altering factors such as fabric, finishes, and trims.

This sort of designing and styling is an important aspect of the brand's range development, as well as a complimentary ethical design skill.

Page 6: Zero Waste Menswear

↓ Rubberised front buttons.

↓ Centre back label with contrast stitching on satin bias binding.

← Internal pocket with double button and loop closures.

↙ Pocket, side-seam and facing binding junction. Contrast stitching on

satin bias binding.

SUITJACKET

Page 7: Zero Waste Menswear

↓ 'Playing card' style tessellation ideas for a suit jacket.

↓ Exploded diagram of suit jacket construction. Highlighted parts in orange correspond to flat pattern.

Page 8: Zero Waste Menswear

LINER COMPATIBLE

WINDPROOFBREATHABLESHELL LAYER

SEALED SEAMS3-PLY LAMINATE FABRIC

WATERPROOF

LINER COMPATIBLE

WINDPROOFBREATHABLESHELL LAYER

SEALED SEAMS3-PLY LAMINATE FABRIC

WATERPROOF

LINER COMPATIBLE

WINDPROOFBREATHABLESHELL LAYER

SEALED SEAMS3-PLY LAMINATE FABRIC

WATERPROOFLINER COMPATIBLE

WINDPROOFBREATHABLESHELL LAYER

SEALED SEAMS3-PLY LAMINATE FABRIC

WATERPROOF

↑ Technical feature information logos.

↗ Triple-layer PTFE laminate fabric. Highly waterproof and breathable.

Wired hood peak and waterproof zippers. Skeleton style cord locks

and cuff adjusters. Compatible with optional, reversible liner.

→ Fully seam taped internals with adjustable waist, cuffs and hem.

Page 9: Zero Waste Menswear

↑ Initial developmental sketch.

↖Hood prototyping process. The aim was initially to develop a self contained zero waste hood design, for addition to other patterns.

← Final jacket pattern.

WATERPROOF JACKET

Page 10: Zero Waste Menswear

↙ Technical feature information logos.

← Developmental CAD work exploring a perfectly repeating quilting pattern.

↓ Fully reversible jacket liner. Highly breathable quilted Nylon (grey) and

weather proof Cotton Ventile (orange).

REVERSIBLE LINER

Scale 1:4 (cm)LINER-dev2

STANDARDISEDFITTING SYSTEM

THERMAL QUILTINGBREATHABLE

MULTI-PURPOSE WATERPROOFAUTUMN WEIGHTREVERSIBLE

STANDARDISEDFITTING SYSTEM

THERMAL QUILTINGBREATHABLE

MULTI-PURPOSE WATERPROOFAUTUMN WEIGHTREVERSIBLE

STANDARDISEDFITTING SYSTEM

THERMAL QUILTINGBREATHABLE

MULTI-PURPOSE WATERPROOFAUTUMN WEIGHTREVERSIBLE

STANDARDISEDFITTING SYSTEM

THERMAL QUILTINGBREATHABLE

MULTI-PURPOSE WATERPROOFAUTUMN WEIGHTREVERSIBLE

STANDARDISEDFITTING SYSTEM

THERMAL QUILTINGBREATHABLE

MULTI-PURPOSE WATERPROOFAUTUMN WEIGHTREVERSIBLE

STANDARDISEDFITTING SYSTEM

THERMAL QUILTINGBREATHABLE

MULTI-PURPOSE WATERPROOFAUTUMN WEIGHTREVERSIBLE

Page 11: Zero Waste Menswear

→ Initial design ideas for a fully reversible jacket liner.

↓ Final liner pattern. The simplicity is mainly down to its reversible design

↘ Working pattern, demonstrating the identical patterns, but differing component uses of the two sides.

Scale 1:5 (cm)LINER-dev3

A: pocket bagB: popper reinforcement appliquesC: Shoulder appliqueD:Jet/OTHER (RESOLVE)

A

BC

B

split one into two jetsLeave other intact for cu� adj.

FOLDFOLD

Page 12: Zero Waste Menswear

→ Sketches of initial ideas for the field jacket before the fully tessellated set in

sleeve was resolved.

↓ Digitally coloured sketch of the initial plans for the field jacket as a

cotton liner for the waterproof.

EARLYDEVELOPMENT

Page 13: Zero Waste Menswear

→ First attempt at exploded diagrams as specification drawings.

↓ Rejected shirt idea. Used a folded pattern with a 'grouped' back pleat and button stand. As with early field jacket designs, better sleeve head solutions meant this design was not pursued, similar.

Page 14: Zero Waste Menswear

↙ Digitally coloured development sketch for a Ventile Cotton field jacket.

↓ Chest pocket with pleat and bellows allowing it to expand to almost double

its initial capacity.

↓ Digital mock-ups of a field jacket prototype, exploring ergonomic and

aesthetic benefits of an angled, expandable chest pocket.

FIELDJACKET

Page 15: Zero Waste Menswear

↓ Center back popper re-enforcement flap with contrast stitching bound edge. The Cotton adhesive seam finishing tape is also visible.

↘ Finished field jacket.

↘ Internal drawstring with spring-loaded barrel style cord-lock.

↓ Matt finish, low-profile, front fastening buttons.

Page 16: Zero Waste Menswear

A large portion of the research done during this project has involved computers at some stage.

All the patterns have been created and developed digitally using Adobe Illustrator and the final patterns were printed off full scale using a large format printer.

I have used blogs to research the work of other zero waste designers, had my work published digitally, and in print, by a creative social networking site, and my exhibition included an interactive system showing all the digital and digitised work from the project.

I have also collaborated with a game art designer to create an interactive 3D model of my waterproof jacket, to demonstrate the possible crossover and role of digital art in garment design.

In the future I would like to see this range become prototyped and drafted digitally in virtualisation software already available in industry. Essentially removing all prototyping waste and making the garment design process truly wasteless from start to end.

I would also like to see garments interacted with digitally online as 3D models, or exploded and manipulated

interactively by customers via an online webstore or game-demo type store/space or through further exhibition spaces.

↓ Reference image and 3D modelling development. Modelling by Robin Smith.

DIGITALDEVELOPMENT

Page 17: Zero Waste Menswear

↙ Drafting digital patterns to paper from a large scale monitor. Saves paper from printing every pattern

development out in A0. Changes made during drafting can also be made directly to the digital file, to save

drafting twice and wasting paper.

← Final overcoat drafting pattern in 1:4 on A4 ready for printing 1:1 at A0.

The accuracy for the final patterns was brought down to around ± 0.4%.

↓ 3D modelling development screen-shots and real garment comparisons.

A: cuff facingB: front PBC: CB labelD: hem facingE: back PBF: inside PBG: font to hem facingtransitionH: shoulder applique detailI: inside pen pocketJ: top button-hole jetting

H

AB

C

D

EFF

G

H H

I

J

correct pocket placementsmark button holes

Scale: 1:5

Drawn by: Joe O'Neill

Date: 14/03/2012

Title: OVERCOAT

Fold Fold

147.82 cm

108.93 cm

Page 18: Zero Waste Menswear

RECENT PRESS

An article about my work was published in the independent arts and culture magazine, FD2D. It was published in the Summer 2012 issue of both the Leicester and Derby versions of the magazine, as well as a digital, interactive magazine on the FD2D website.

The layout, content and words are my own.

The whole experience was a great excercise in graphic design and networking, and has led on to possible consultancy in creative networking and events management; assisting in FD2D's expansion to a regional publication.

↓ Interactive, online edition of the magazine.

↘ FD2D Summer 2012 Leicester edition front cover.

→ Two full spread layouts published in the Summer 2012 issue of FD2D.

Page 19: Zero Waste Menswear