72

SIDING

Skills needed?

Safety tips?

Notes:

The final exterior layer

Table of Contents

Outdoor Fixtures

(Outlet Boxes, Hose Bibs, Back Porch Light) ...... 73

Vinyl Siding ..................................................... 75

Siding Layout ............................................... 76

Basic Principles ............................................ 77

Siding Trim .............................. 78-79, 81-82, 85

Top Row-Eave Walls ..................................... 83

Gable Walls .................................................. 84

Soffit ................................................................ 86

Soldier Course .............................................. 89

Fascia Metal..................................................... 90

Bird Box Metal ............................................. 93

Porch Columns ................................................ 95

Air Sealing ....................................................... 97

Baffles .......................................................... 99

Insulation ....................................................... 100

73

OUTDOOR FIXTURES

When planning

where to install,

keep in mind that

shutters still need

to be fit beside

front windows!

Installing water/electrical fixtures in the wall before siding is put up

Tools Needed

Hardware Needed

74

1. The hole for the outlet box should start right next to a

stud, and the top should be 18” from the inside floor.

2. Use the included template to draw the outline for the

hole to be cut out.

3. Use a sawzall to cut out the hole. Trim edges as

necessary to fit the outlet box.

4. Once the outlet box fits, place a level on top. Trim as

necessary to make level.

5. Fit the outlet box in place, and nail with roofing nails.

6. Tape with Dow WEATHERMATETM housewrap tape.

First tape the bottom, then the sides, and then the top.

Image 1. Marking the Location

Outdoor Fixtures

Lighten up the porch. Power a tool. Water a plant.

Image 4. Taped

Image 1

Note: Make sure the top of the side pieces of tape do not extend

above the top piece.

Image 2. Cutting the Hole

Image 3. Level the Box

*Hose bibs and the back light are installed

in the same manner.

75

VINYL SIDING

Keep the

siding off the

ground so

that it stays

clean!

The exterior skin—for weather protection...and making it look nice!

Tools Needed

Hardware Needed

(x2) Image Credit and Copyright ©

2014 by Vinyl Siding Institute,

Inc.

76

Siding Layout

77

Vinyl siding is not water-resistant. Plan ahead so that seams between pieces are not

above a window, a door, or a penetration for a pipe/duct.

Siding expands and contracts with temperature change - leave 1/4” gap when

cutting to fit inside channels (sides of windows, the end of a wall…)

Because siding needs to be able to move, don’t drive the nail all the way in (but

nail all the channels tight!) ( ).

Nail every 6th hole (applies to all siding and trim) - place in the center of nail slots.

When nailing siding, lock the piece into the row below, pull it up tight so it is not

sagging, and tack nails in with your hand before using your hammer.

Siding: Basic Principles

Note: If the pieces are not interlocked into the previous row and pulled up

tight, ALL of the siding installed after will have to be taken down to fix it.

Exception: In the uppermost slots of corner posts, place the nail at the top of these slots.

Image 1

Image 1. How to Nail into Siding1

Image 2. Nail Location for Siding1

Image 3. Nail Straight On1

1 Image Credit and Copyright © 2014 by Vinyl Siding Institute, Inc.

78

Siding Trim: Corners These images specifically show outside corner trim.

Image 2. A finished corner piece

Note: Use the template, if it’s on-site!

Image 1. The Process

Image 3. The Template

79

Image 1. Starter Strip Placement

Siding Trim: Starter Strip

The starter strip is installed at the most continuous height of the house.

Pull housewrap up and tack out of the way (it will lay over the top of the starter

strip after installation).

Measure 1.5” up from the top of the brick. Snap a chalk line, and align the top of

the starter strip with it.

Start and stop 4” short of corners and 1” short of doors.

80

When fitting siding over a penetration (an outlet box, dryer vent, etc.):

1. Hold the siding piece directly below where it will be installed, and mark the width of

the hole to be cut ( ).

2. Lock the siding piece in right beside the penetration, and mark the height of the hole

( ).

3. Use a straight edge to extend the marks so that they intersect (making an outline of

the cutout) (see outline in ).

4. Make the cut using a utility knife ( ).

5. Lock the siding in, and nail ( ).

Image 1. Step 11

Siding: Making a Cut-Out

Align properly, and no measurements are required.

Image 4. Step 51

Image 2. Step 21

Image 3. Step 41

Image 2

Image 1

Image 3

Image 4

Image 3

1 Photos courtesy of Habitat for Humanity How to Build a House by Larry Haun, published by The Taunton Press.

81

1. When fitting siding under the window sill:

- Measure from inside to inside of window trim.

- Cut and install the utility strip at this width ( ).

2. Hold the siding piece directly below where it will be installed, and mark where the

ends of the utility strip align (mark at arrows in ).

3. Measure from the bottom of the nail flange of the

previous row to the top of the utility strip,

and subtract ⅛ ” ( ).

4. Mark that height on the siding, and extend the marks

from Steps 2 & 3 until they intersect to form

an outline of the cutout (use a speed square for this).

5. Use siding shears to cut along the outline ( ).

6. Use a crimper to make dimples every 6” along the newly formed top edge that will fit

in the utility strip ( ).

7. Lock siding into

place, making sure

the dimples catch

in the utility strip.

Nail it in.

Image 1. Utility Strip Size

Siding Trim: Window Sill

Note: Avoid seams in pieces under windows.

Image 1

Image 3. Using the Shears Image 4. Using the Crimper

Image 2

Image 3

Image 4

Image 1

Image 2. Measuring the Height

82

When using the shears to make cuts:

1. Cut the face.

2. Cut the nail flange.

3. Bend, and cut the rest.

Siding Trim: Angle Cuts

*For the peak, make the 6:12 angle cut and a cut

straight down (90°). Then, fit the angle cut over the

straight cut.

How to cut a 6:12 pitch angle

(same angle as the roof)

Looks like this

Used at the corner of

gable walls

83

Eave walls (roof is even all the way across):

1. Nail F channel flush with the bottom of the

trusses. Extend the entire length of the wall (it

will fit above the corner posts ( ).

2. Nail J channel and utility trim simultaneously,

fitting right below the F channel and aligning the

nail slots with each other ( ).

Image 3. How to Measure Height for Top Row

Siding Trim: Top Row-Eave

Image 1. An Eave Wall

Siding: Top Row-Eave

3. Measure height ( ) every 2’ across the wall, and cut accordingly ( ).

4. Use a crimper to make dimples every 6” along the

top of this siding piece, and lock into place ( ).

Image 5. Using Crimper to Punch Holes

Image 2. Siding Trim-Eave Walls

Image 2

Image 2

Image 4. Height Measurements for Top Row-Eaves

Image 5

Image 3 Image 4

84

1. Hold one end of a measuring tape against the

underside of the roof sheathing. Measure down

(perpendicular to the roof angle, not straight down)

5 ½” plus the height of the F channel onsite. Mark

with a pencil, and snap a chalk line on these marks.

2. Nail F channel so the top aligns with the chalk. Cut

at the peak so that the bottoms of F channel on each

side are flush to one another.

3. Nail J channel, fitting right below the F channel.

For how to cut angles and overlap pieces, see p. 82.

Image 3. Measuring Gable Pieces

Siding Trim: Gable Walls

Image 1. A Gable Wall

Siding: Gable Walls

4. For the first row that begins to angle in towards the

peak, measure the height for your siding piece according

to . Cut angle using the siding jig.

5. Measure and cut the rest of the siding according to

. For the top pieces, see .

6. For the final piece, fasten with a white finish nail.

Image 4. Measuring Gable Top Pieces

Image 2. Height of Transition Piece

Image 2

Image 3 Image 4

85

The door frame is adorned with J channel on the top and sides.

1. Cut the top piece to be 2” more than the width of the door frame.

2. Cut the side pieces to be 1” taller than the door frame.

3. Make 45° cuts on both sides of the top piece of J channel. Then, cut slits to bend

down a flap on each side. (These flaps will slide over the side pieces.) ( )

4. Cut a hole at the top of each side piece equal to the size of the flap ( ).

5. Install side pieces first. Then, install top piece over the side pieces.

Image 3. Top Piece Ready to Install

Siding Trim: Door Frame

Image 1. An Eave Wall

Image 2. Installed Door Trim

Image 1. Door Corner Detail

Image 1

Image 1

86

SOFFIT

When taking soffit out of the box, there will be

two layers joined together. Keep them this way

as you cut:

Covers the underside of the rafters/overhang

Tools Needed

Hardware Needed

Soffit Layers Joined Together

And keep the

soffit off the

ground so that

it stays clean!

87

Take an 8-ft. ladder. At each truss, measure from the

inside of the F channel to the outside edge of the fascia.

Write the measurement minus ¼” on the front side of

the sub-fascia so it can be seen from below ( ).

Leave the pieces together when removing from the box,

and cut two at a time.

For the first piece, face the nail flange towards the

opposite end.

Interlock pieces together, slide them into the channel,

and fasten each piece with one nail into the sub-fascia

( ).

*On gable walls, start at one end, and work your way up towards the peak. At the

peak, bend the soffit to match the angle at the peak (use the metal brake for this; if

the brake is not available, use a carpenter’s square and hand clamps). Continue

down the other side, and cut your last piece to fit inside the J channel ( ).

Soffit: Eaves & Gables

Use vented soffit at eaves. Use solid soffit at gables.

Note: For the piece that covers an outside corner (where the

bird boxes are), use two finish nails to fasten the edge where

there is no nail flange, and nail in the other side as usual.

Image 1

Image 3. Gable Soffit: Order of Operations

Image 1. Measuring for soffit

Note: Don’t forget to install 2x6 blocking (flush with the

bottom of trusses) in between trusses for the two flood lights.

Image 2 Image 2. Installing soffit pieces

Image 3

88

Soffit: Underside of Porch

Each row of porch soffit will be

perpendicular to the porch trusses.

1. Measure from inside of F

channel to inside of F channel,

and subtract ¼“.

2. Cut, and nail into each truss.

3. Interlock successive pieces.

Soffit: Interior Corners

Rather than trying to get

the 45° angle just right

at an interior corner,

install back-to-back J

channel to hold the

soffit in both directions.

Note: Don’t forget to install 2x6

blocking (flush with the bottom of

trusses) in between trusses in the middle

of the porch for the light fixture.

Image 2. Cutting & Nailing

Image 3. Finished Underside of Porch

Image 1. Soffit at an Interior Corner

89

The soldier course is installed on the inside face of the

porch beams.

1. Measure to the insides of the top and bottom channels.

2. Cut, and interlock into previous piece.

Note 2: On the front beam, start

your soldier course on the same

side that you started the soffit on

so that the grooves align.

Note 1: Install J channel on the

front beam first—before the sides.

Soffit: Soldier Course

Soffit: Soldier Course Trim

Image 2. Measuring Image 3. Cutting Image 4. Fitting

1. Install the bottom piece first.

2. Cut the side piece at the height of the porch

beam, and make 45° cuts. This will fit over

the bottom piece.

3. Install the top piece with a 45° cut over the

side piece.

Image 1. Soldier Course Trim: Install Order

90

FASCIA METAL

Wear gloves!

This metal is

very sharp.

Covers the sub-fascia all around the house

Tools Needed

Notes

91

1. Cut a piece 10’ long - use a square to mark a

straight line to cut with the shears.

2. You will cut this piece into three 8” strips (the roll

is 24” wide) ( ):

A. Measure and mark at both ends of the 10’ piece.

B. Place in metal brake, aligning with first mark.

C. Clamp, and score with a utility knife (put some muscle in this) ( ).

D. Once a good score has been made, use the

brake to bend it so that it breaks.

E. Repeat steps 2B-D with second mark.

3. For each 8” piece, measure and mark ½” and

2” from an end ( ).

4. Use the brake to bend at the ½” mark as much

as you can.

5. Place this almost flattened piece under the clamping bar,

and secure the clamp to completely flatten it ( ).

6. At the 2” mark, use the brake to bend it to 90°.

7. Repeat steps 3-6 on the two other 8” pieces.

Fascia Metal: Bending

Image 1. Cutting 8” Pieces

Image 2. Scoring the Metal

Image 3. The Bend Marks Image 4. Flattening at ½” Image 5. Finished Piece

Image 1

Image 3

Image 4

Image 2

92

Where to start:

• Eave walls - work from back to front of house (or start away from driveway and

work towards the driveway, depending on orientation of house).

• Gable walls - work from low to high (higher pieces will overlap lower ones).

The Process:

1. Slide the long side of the metal underneath the drip

edge (a pry bar may help).

2. Nail white finish nails every 24” into the sub-fascia.

3. Overlap pieces at least 6”, and set at least two nails in

the overlap joints.

4. At interior corners ( ), cut a slit in the metal

where it will meet at the corner so that you can bend the

piece at 90° to fit it around the corner.

*For exterior corners, see the next two pages (p. 93-94).

Fascia Metal: Installing

Image 2. A Gable Wall

Image 1. An Eave Wall

Image 4. Using a Pry Bar1

Image 3

Image 3. An Interior Corner

1 Photo courtesy of Habitat for Humanity How to Build a House by Larry Haun, published by The Taunton Press.

93

1. Cut a piece 41” long - use a square to mark a

straight line to cut with the shears.

2. You will cut this piece into two 12” strips (the roll

is 24” wide) ( ):

A. Measure and mark 12” down at both ends of

the 41” piece.

B. Place in metal brake, aligning with these marks.

C. Clamp, and score with a utility knife (put some muscle in this) ( ).

D. Once a good score has been made, use the brake

to bend it so that it breaks.

3. For each 12” piece, measure and mark ½” and 2”

from an end ( ).

4. Use the brake to bend at the ½” mark as much as

you can.

5. Place this almost flattened piece under the clamping bar, and secure the clamp to

completely flatten it ( ).

6. At the 2” mark, use the brake to bend it to 90°.

7. Repeat steps 3-6 on the other 12” piece.

Bird Box Metal: Bending

Image 1. Cutting 8” Pieces

Image 2. Scoring the Metal

Image 3. The Bend Marks Image 4. Flattening at ½” Image 5. Finished Piece

Image 1

Image 3

Image 4

Image 2

94

1. Measure X and Y.

2. Measure Z (height of 2x10 + thickness of soffit).

3. If Z is less than 10”, mark where you need to cut on

both sides of the metal.

• Use the brake to hold the piece in place as

you cut.

4. Measure out Y” from one end, and notch out

a piece to facilitate bending.

5. Measure X” from that notch, and notch

another piece for a second bend.

6. Measure 6” up from the corner, and cut

horizontally to the bend.

7. Find (Z-6). Measure twice that distance

out. Cut at a 6:12 pitch.

8. Slide under the drip

edge, and nail every 24”

and at each corner

(these will be overlapped

by fascia metal).

Bird Box Metal: Installing

Note: The 10” height above reflects

the 2” already bent in previous steps.

Steps 1 & 2

Step 3

Steps 4 & 5

Step 6

A finished piece Step 7

6:12 Roof Pitch

Explained

For every 12”

out, it rises 6”.

*If Z = 9 ½”,

then (Z-6)

would be 3 ½”.

So, you would

measure twice

that distance

out—7”.

95

PORCH COLUMNS

Notes

Support the porch overhang

Tools Needed

Hardware Needed

96

1. Cut two pieces of metal, each 12” long and width equal to

the width of the respective porch beam + 2” ( ).

2. Bend 1” lips on each end of the width (a 6” piece would

become 4” wide with 1” lips).

3. Fit one piece under its respective porch beam, and slide it

underneath the white MiraTec board. Before nailing, cut a

slit so that it lays flat across both porch beams ( ).

4. Nail from the inside of the porch using white finish nails.

5. Repeat Steps 3-4 for the piece under the other porch beam.

6. Use a bottle jack and two 2x4’s

screwed together to raise the side porch

beam until it’s level ( ).

7. Once level, measure from the brick

column to the side porch beam.

8. Cut your column pieces at this height.

9. Assemble the pieces together, using a

rubber mallet to get them square and tight.

10.Place the decorative pieces on the column.

11.Set the column so that the edges meet flush with the outside

edges of the 2x10’s of the porch beams ( ).

12.Check level before removing the jack.

13.Slowly remove the jack.

Image 4. Column in Place

Porch Columns

Transfer the weight of the porch roof to the brick Image 1. 1st Piece of Metal

Image 1

Image 2

Image 3

Image 1

Image 2. 2nd Piece of Metal

Image 3. A Bottle Jack

Image 4

97

AIR SEALING

To guard against energy waste and rot

Tools Needed

Applying Caulk

• To achieve a clean bead of caulk at a seam, apply

slow and steady pressure to the caulk gun.

Try to finish a seam in one run.

• To wipe off excess product, do NOT use your finger.

Instead, use the thin edge of a damp sponge to run

along the seam.

• Wash the caulk off of the sponge in a bowl of water.

98

After moisture management, stopping

air leaks is the next highest priority of a

building enclosure. How well a house is

sealed will affect both the energy effi-

ciency and indoor air quality of a house.

◊ 1. Sill foam along topmost plate

◊ 2. Caulk between top plates

◊ 3. Caulk OSB to top plate

◊ 4. Caulk studs at OSB seams

◊ 5. Spray foam around doors and windows

◊ 6. Caulk/spray foam any exterior wall penetrations or other gaps

◊ 7. Spray foam bottom plate to floor

◊ 8. Caulk OSB to bottom plate (or baseboard blocking where it is installed)

◊ 9. Caulk lumber around doors (jacks, kings, cripples, and headers)

◊ 10. Caulk lumber around windows (jacks,

kings, cripples, headers, and sills)

Air Sealing Checklist

Image 1. Air Sealing: Top of Wall

Image 2. Air Sealing Diagram

Blue Lines = Caulk Locations

Yellow Lines = Spray Foam Locations

Oft-Missed Air Sealing Locations

• OSB to baseboard blocking

• Plumbing pipes

Note: Mark all the stud locations on the ground with

spray paint before you end the day.

Note: Make sure to use the gun cleaner immediately

after you finish using the spray foam gun.

99

1. Trim the top of the baffle to allow at least a 1” gap

between it and the underside of the roof sheathing.

2. Fold at the perforations.

3. Set upright—90°—at the outside edge of the wall,

and make any necessary cuts to fit around obstacles.

4. Staple to the lumber on the bottom and sides to hold

it in place.

Image 1. A cardboard baffle installed

Baffles

To allow complete coverage of attic insulation Concept Lesson

The baffle acts as

formwork to allow

13” of attic

insulation to extend

all the way to the

edge of the wall.

Place it at the out-

side edge at 90°—

NOT at the angle of

the roof pitch.

100

INSULATION

The thermal barrier of the home

Tools Needed

*Make sure rigid board

insulation is installed

behind the tub on the

exterior wall before the

tub is put in!

*Only for

person

going up

into attic

101

While air sealing works to create a tight building envelope, insulation works to lessen heat

exchange, whether the heat is escaping the house or entering the house.

1. Separate into two teams—a cut team (2 people) and an install team (2-6 people).

2. The cut team will cut 94” long pieces to fit into the stud cavities.

3. The install team will fit these pieces into the stud cavities. If there is a paper backing,

staple it to the studs.

4. In cavities that have protrusions (outlet boxes, plumbing pipes), hold the insulation

against the cavity, and roughly score it around the protrusion.

Wall Insulation

Image 1. Protrusion in the Cavity1

3-bedroom: __ bundles needed

4-bedroom: __ bundles needed

Note: Rather than measuring each piece, pick a fixed point to measure from (the bottom plate of a

wall), and measure 94” out from that point. Mark this distance on the ground next to your scrap OSB

so that you can simply line up the roll from the fixed point and cut at the measured point each time.

Note: Ensure spray foam has been applied behind outlet boxes (and pipes?) before installing the insu-

lation into the cavity.

Image 2. Scoring the Insulation1

1 Photos courtesy of Habitat for Humanity How to Build a House by Larry Haun, published by The Taunton Press.

102

1. Straighten out both of the hoses by walking them out.

2. Connect the two hoses by connecting the blue coupling and tightening the collars.

3. Screw the antenna into the blower machine, and plug in the receiver to the machine.

4. Connect one end of the hose to the machine, and send the other end into the attic.

5. Outfit the person going into the attic with a dust mask, safety glasses, and coverall suit.

6. Staple measurement cards to trusses (one in each corner of the attic and two or three

more scattered throughout) so that the bottom is flush with the drywall.

7. Cut the insulation blocks in half (on the dotted line), and have a stack ready to go.

Attic Insulation

Image 2. Machine Connections

Note: Keep the loading area tidy and clean - do NOT let anything

besides insulation get into the hopper. If this happens, press both

red buttons on the bottom to stop the machine.

Image 5. Cut Halves

Image 1. Connecting the Hoses Image 4. Cutting Insulation Halves

Image 3. Measurement Card

103

8. Two people will load the hopper:

- One will be responsible for cutting the plastic off and making sure all the plastic

comes off and gets thrown away.

- The other will need to quickly fit the insulation into the hopper before it expands (as

soon as the plastic is cut, it will begin to expand). Break up the insulation as you fit it

in, and make sure it does not get caught on the metal bracket inside the hopper.

*Once the hopper gets below the halfway point, start getting another bag ready to fit in.

9. The person in the attic is to blow up to the 13” mark (R-38) all the way to the baffles,

behind all the ductwork...every inch of the ceiling should get covered in insulation.

10.Once there is enough insulation, turn off the agitator, and use the blower only (just air)

to smooth out and level the insulation as much as you can.

Attic Insulation, Cont.

Image 2. Breaking It Up

Warning: Do NOT put your hand more than halfway down the hopper while the machine is on -

there are metal blades rotating at the bottom to break up the insulation.

Note: The insulation will blow up to about 20 feet, so you should not have to move much. Pick a few

strategic spots, and do your work from those points.

Image 4. Sufficient Insulation

Image 1. Loading the Hopper

Image 3. Letting the Blower Work

Staff/QAT Note:

3-bedroom:

20 bundles needed

4-bedroom:

24 bundles needed