conjunto de planos constructivos de muebles y otros objetos

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U-BILD

Animal ArkPlan No. 786Copyright U-Build, Inc., 2003.

All rights reserved. Printed in the U.S.A.

Bill of Material

Quantity Size Material Item

1 2” x 12” x 28” pine A

1 1” x 6” x 84” pine B, C, D, E, F

4 1” x 12” x 12’ lumber of choice* G, animals**

1 box 1 1/4” finish nails

1 bottle wood glue

1 bottle mineral oil

*We used fir, mahogany, pine and walnut.**Quantity listed is enough for two of each animal.

This do-it-yourself animal ark project will keep little hands and big imaginations busy when it’s too wet to go outside. A natural for

rainy afternoons, the project features pairs of lions, giraffes, bears, pigs, cows, elephants, horses and camels that fit on a sturdy ark

And when the deluge is over, the whole menagerie is ready to go outside into the sunshine for outdoor fun.

The finished ark measures 27 inches long by 11 inches wide by 10 inches tall, and each animal measures approximately 4 inches

long by 4 inches tall.

NOTES

1. Read all instructions and check materials

before beginning work.

2. Read manufacturer’s instructions before

operating equipment.

3. Always wear safety glasses.

4. Use wood glue and 1 1/4” finish nails on all

joints.

Cutting Schedule

Part Qty T W L Material

A 1 1 1/2” 11” 27” pine

B 2 3/4” 3 1/4” 25 7/8” pine

C 2 3/4” 4 3/4” 12” pine

D 1 3/4” 7 1/8”* 4 3/4” pine

E 1 3/4” 4 3/4” 14” pine

F 1 3/4” 5 1/2” 14” pine

G 1 3/4” 2 1/2” 12” lumber of choice

animals 16 3/4” see traceable patterns lumber of choice

*Board D is made up of two boards edge-glued to achieve width

(see Figure 1)



G

F

E

CD

B

A

A

C

D

E

F

B

Isometric

Figure 1Ark Cross Section

Direction of grain

for Board D

10

45



1 0

1 0 1 / 2 ”

1 4 1 / 4 ”

2 3 / 8 ”

5 5 / 8 ”

3 ” T Y P .

2 ” T Y P .

A

B

C

DD

C

B

A

F

E

SeePattern

1

SeePattern

2

CenterL

ine

( Note:EandFno

tshown)

3/8”radius

3/8”radius

F i g ur e2

Ar k C on s t r u c t i onDi a g

r am



Pattern 1

A

B



Pattern 2

A

B



Animal Pattern Sheet 1

Cow

Pig

Horse

Bear



Animal Pattern Sheet 2

Camel

Giraffe

Elephant

Lion



2. Place rails (B) in position on base (A). Make a mark at either end of both boards (B) and remove from board (A). Route a 3/8”radius between the marks at either end of board (A). Refer to Figure 2.

3. Attach rails (B) to base (A) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Isometric, Figures 1 and 2 and Patterns 1 and 2.

4. Drill two 1 3/4” portholes in deckhouse sides (C). Refer to Figure 2.

5. Attach roof board (E) to roof board (F) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Isometric and Figure 1.

6. Route a 3/8” radius on all all exposed (when assembled) edges of boards (B), (C), (E), (F) and (G).

7. Attach deckhouse sides (C) to deckhouse divider (D) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Isometric and Figure 2.

8. Attach deckhouse (C, D) to base (A) using glue. Refer to Isometric and Figure 2.

9. Attach deckhouse roof (F, E) to deckhouse (C, D) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Isometric and Figure 2.

10. Fill all nail holes and sand completed ark.

11. Trace, cut out and sand animals. Drill 1/16” diameter by 1/16” deep holes for the animals’ eyes. Refer to Animal Pattern Sheets

1 and 2.

12. Apply nontoxic mineral oil finish to ark and animals.

Read all instructions before beginning any work. Cut all material to sizes shown in cutting schedule.

Assembly InstructionsPage One

1. Cut out all parts. Refer to Cutting Schedule, Isometric, Figures 1 and 2 and Patterns 1 and 2. Note that ark base (A) is cut out

with a 10 bevel around the edges and deckhouse sides (C) have a 45 bevel on the top edge.



U-BILD

ArmoirePlan No. 729Copyright U-Build, Inc., 2004.


Bill of Material


3 1” x 2” x 84” lumber of choice A, F, G, P, Q, R

8 1” x 3” x 72” lumber of choice B, E, S, U,Y, Z

2 1” x 5” x 84” lumber of choice C, I, J, T, DD

1 1” x 8” x 108” lumber of choice N, AA

1 1” x 8” x 144” lumber of choice BB

1 1” x 10” x 120” lumber of choice K, L, M

5 1” x 12” x 72” lumber of choice D, V

1 3/4” x 48” x 96” veneer plywood H, W, X

1 1/8” x 48” x 96” hardboard O, CC1 96” moulding* EE

1 96” moulding* FF

1 96” moulding* GG

1 1 3/8” diameter x 36” clothes rod HH

2 1 3/8” clothes rod brackets

6 3/8” x 3/8” cabinet hinges

2 drawer pulls

2 door knobs


1 box 1/2” finish nails

1 bottle wood glue

finish of choice**

* See Figures 12 and 13 for suggested moulding profiles.** We used satin polyurethane over a medium stain

If you’re looking for an easy way to add somestorage or closet space for that winter wardrobe,an armoire is a handsome, easy-to-build solution.This one will stow full-length coats, robes andgowns and has a roomy drawer at the bottom forlinens, handbags and more.

The armoire measures 77 inches tall by 38 inch-es wide by 22 inches deep. The doors are five feettall and allow easy access to the interior.

Cutting Schedule

Item Qty T W L Material

A 2 3/4” 1 1/2” 13 1/2” lumber of choice

B 1 3/4” 2” 34 1/2” lumber of choice

C 1 3/4” 4” 34 1/2” lumber of choice

D 2 3/4” 22 1/4”* 13 1/2” lumber of choice

E 2 3/4” 2” 21 1/2” lumber of choice

F 2 3/4” 1 1/4” 21 1/2” lumber of choice

G 1 3/4” 1 1/2” 21 1/2” lumber of choice

H 1 3/4” 36” 13 1/2” veneer plywood

I 1 3/4” 4” 39” lumber of choiceJ 2 3/4” 4” 23 3/4” lumber of choice

K 1 3/4” 23 3/4”* 39” lumber of choice

L 1 3/4” 8 1/8” 35 1/4” lumber of choice

M 2 3/4” 7 3/8” 21 1/2” lumber of choice

N 1 3/4” 6 1/2” 33 1/2” lumber of choice

O 1 1/8” 20 3/4” 33 1/2” hardboard

P 1 3/4” 1 1/2” 20 3/4” lumber of choice

Q 2 3/4” 1 1/2” 20 1/2” lumber of choice

R 2 3/4” 1 1/2” 31” lumber of choice

S 2 3/4” 2” 60” lumber of choice

T 1 3/4” 3 3/4” 31 1/2” lumber of choice

U 1 3/4” 2” 31 1/2” lumber of choice

V 2 3/4” 21 1/4”* 60” lumber of choice

W 1 3/4”

34”

21 1/4”

veneer plywoodX 1 3/4” 34” 59 1/4” veneer plywood

Y 4 3/4” 2” 55” lumber of choice

Z 6 3/4” 2” 12” lumber of choice

AA 2 3/4” 12”* 16” lumber of choice

BB 2 3/4” 12”* 33” lumber of choice

CC 2 1/8” 16” 55” hardboard

DD 1 3/8” 5/8” 54 1/4” lumber of choice

EE 3 cut to fit moulding

FF 3 cut to fit moulding

GG 3 cut to fit moulding

HH 1 cut to fit clothes rod

* Edge-gluing required to achieve width.

NOTES1. Read manufacturer’s instructions before operating equip-

ment.


3. We used pine for this project, but oak or birch will work

equally well.



W

FF

GG

X

VS

Q

G

F

E

EE CC

U

Y

Z

T

R

K

D

H

J

C

O

N

L

M

I

B

A

DD

Isometric

P

AA

BB



A A

B B

AA

Pattern 1A

Pattern 1B

Center

Line



B B

Pattern 1C

Pattern 1A Pattern 1B Pattern 1C

A

A B

B

Pattern 1Assemble as Pictured



Pattern 2A Pattern 2B

A

A

Pattern 2Assemble as Pictured

A

A

A

A

Pattern 2A

Pattern 2B

Ce

n

t

e

r

L

i

n

e





Figure 1Boards (D), (E), (F), (H)

(Left Side)

Figure 2Boards (C), (G), (H)

1. Assemble lower face frame (A, B, C) using glue. Refer to Isometric. (Note: You may wish to reinforce the joints with 3/8” by

2” dowels.

2. Attach boards (E) to boards (F) using glue and 1 1/4” finish

nails. Refer to Figure 1 and Isometric.

3. Attach subassemblies (E, F) to lower sides (D) using glue and

1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Figure 1 and Isometric.

4. Attach lower back (H) to lower side subassemblies (D, E, F)

using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Figure 1 and

Isometric.

5. Attach lower face frame (A, B, C) to boards (D), (E) and (F) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Isometric.

6. Attach drawer guide (G) to boards (C) and (H) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails.

Refer to Figure 2 and Isometric.

1/2”D

E

F

H

G

C

H

3/8”

Center Line

7. Miter both ends of base board (I). Refer to Isometric.

8. Miter one end of base boards (J). Refer to Isometric.




Assembly InstructionsPage Two

Figure 3Boards (D), (J)

(Left Side)

Figure 4Boards (A), (B), (D), (K), (Q), (R)

(Left Side)

D

J

11. Cut a 1/4” radius on the outside upper edge of base boards (I) and (J). Refer to Figure 3.

12. Attach base boards (I) and (J) to lower cabinet (A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H) using glue

and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Figure 3 and Isometric.

14. Attach boards (Q) and (R) to board (K) using

glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Figure 4

and Isometric.

9. Trace Pattern 1 onto base board (I), cut out curves and sand.

10. Trace Pattern 2 onto base boards (J), cut out curves and sand.

R 1/4”

1 11/16”

RQ

K

BAD

2 1/2”

3/4”

15. Assemble upper face frame (S, T, U) using glue. Refer to Isometric. (Note: You may wish to reinforce the joints with 3/8” by

2” dowels.

13. Attach board (K) to lower cabinet using using

glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Figure 4

and Isometric.

16. Attach upper sides (V) to top (W) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Isometric.




Assembly InstructionsPage Three

17. Attach upper sides (V) to top (W) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Isometric.

18. Attach upper back (X) to subassembly (V, W) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Isometric.

19. Attach upper face frame (S, T, U) to subassembly (V, W, X) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Isometric.

20. Place upper cabinet on top of lower cabinet and attach

boards (U), (V) and (X) to boards (Q) and (R) using glue and

1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Figure 5 and Isometric.

RQ

K

U

S

X

V

Y

CC

Z

Figure 5Boards (K), (B), (Q), (R), (S), (U), (V), (X)

(Left Side)

Figure 6Door Subassembly (Y, Z, CC) Detail

21. Assemble door frames (Y, Z) using glue. Refer to Isometric.

22. Attach door backing boards (CC) to frames (Y, Z) using glue. Refer to Isometric.

23. Cut a 3/8” wide by 1/2” deep rabbet around inside edge of

subassembly (Y, Z, CC). Refer to Figure 6.

23. Cut a 1/4” decorative radius around outside edge of sub-

assembly (Y, Z, CC). Refer to Figure 6.

1/2”

3/8”

R 1/4”




Assembly InstructionsPage Four

Figure 7Door Panel (AA), (BB) Detail

Figure 8Subassembly (M, N O) Detail(Front View)

24. Cut a decorative raised panel around outside edge of door panels (AA) and (BB).

Refer to Figure 7.

25. Glue door panels (AA) and (BB) to door backing boards (CC) inside door frames (Y, Z). Refer to Isometric.

3/4”

AA, BB

28. Cut a 3/4” wide by 3/8” deep dado on the back end of the inside width of drawer sides (M) that extends from the top edge of (M)

to the 1/8” dado cut in Step 26. Refer to Figure 9 and Isometric.

27. Cut a 1/8” wide by 3/8” deep dado along the inside length of drawer sides (M). Refer to Figure 8 and Isometric.

30. Slide drawer back (N) into the 3/4” dado in drawer sides (M). Attach (N) to (M) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails and (N) to

(O) using glue and 1/2” finish nails. Refer to Figure 9 and Isometric.

29. Slide drawer bottom (O) into the 1/8” dado in boards (M) until it is flush with the front end of boards (M). Refer to Figure 8

and Isometric.

3/4” 1/4”

3/8”

MN

O

26. Attach board (DD) to left door using glue and 1/2” finish nails. Refer to Figure 14 and

Isometric.

Figure 13

Board (DD) Detail

DDY

Figure 9Subassembly (M, N O) Detail

(Top View)

3/4”

3/4”

3/8”

M

N

O



M L

3/8”

3/8”

R 1/4”

30. Cut a 3/8” wide by 3/8” deep rabbet around inside edge of drawer front (L). Refer to

Figure 10.

33. Cut a 3/4” wide by 3/8” deep dado lengthwise in drawer guide (P). Refer

to Figure 11.

34. Center drawer guide (P) on the width of drawer bottom (O) and attach using glue and 1/2” finish nails. Refer to Isometric.

31. Cut a 1/4” decorative radius around outside edge of drawer front (L). Refer to Figure 10.

32. Center drawer front (L) horizontally on subassembly (M, N, O) and attach using glue



Assembly InstructionsPage Five

O

Figure 10

Drawer Front (L) Detail(Side View)

Figure 11

Board (P) Detail

3/8”

3/8”

P

3/4”

35. Install clothes rod brackets centered on inside of upper sides (D) 3” below top (W).

36. Cut clothes rod (HH) to length and install on clothes rod brackets.




Assembly InstructionsPage Six

37. Cut decorative moulding (EE), (FF) and (GG) to length and install using glue and 1/2” finish nails. Refer to Figures 12 and 13

and Isometric.

38. Sand project.

39. Apply finish to cabinet, doors and drawer front.

40. Install doors. Note: Hinges are placed 3” from the top, in the center and 3” from the bottom of outside door stiles (Y).

41. Install door pulls.

42. Install drawer pulls.

41. Install drawer.

Figure 13Moulding (FF) and (GG) Detail

(Shown at 50%)

WFF

V

GG

Figure 12Moulding (EE) Detail

(Shown at 50%)V

K

EE



U-BILD

Bathroom Cabinet

Plan No. 915Copyright U-Build, Inc., 2000.


Bill of Material


1 3/4” x 48” x 96” birch plywood F, G, P, S, W, BB, GG

1 1/4” x 48” x 48” birch plywood E, O

25 BF* 3/4” birch A, B, C, D, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, Q, R, T, U, V,

X, Y Z, AA, CC, DD, EE, FF, HH, II

2 1/8” x 9 1/16” x 29 7/16” tempered glass sides

1 1/8” x 14 9/16” x 30 1/16” tempered glass door

36 3/8” x 2” dowels

12 5/16” x 3/4” glass clips

12 1/4” shelf supports

2 pairs 3/4” x 2 3/4” full back-to-back wraparound hinges

2 1 5/8” x 1 3/4” cupboard latches

1 box 1” finish nails


1 small can wood filler

1 small bottle wood glue

2 quarts primer

2 quarts white paint

*includes about 20% scrap

NOTES1. Read all instructions and check materials before beginning work.

2. Read manufacturer’s instructions before operating equipment.

3. “Subassembly” means two or more boards put together to make a component of a larger part of the project

4. Use wood glue on all joints.


With storage space at a premium in most homes, antique medical cabinets have

become a popular (and expensive) way to add storage space to the bathroom.

This do-it-yourself version, based on a classic doctor’s cabinet, includes the

gleaming display space, generous storage and bright white finish of the originals,

but without the expense of an antique.

Perfect for linens and toiletries, the project makes a great addition to the pow-

der room. With its clean lines and pleasing proportions, it’s also at home in the

kitchen or dining room as a handsome curio cabinet.

The bathroom cabinet measures 68 inches tall by 24 inches wide by 14 inchesdeep.




A 2 3/4” 2 3/8” 30 3/4” birch

B 2 3/4” 1 5/8” 30 3/4” birch

C 2 3/4” 2 3/8” 8 3/8” birch

D 2 3/4” 6” 8 3/8” birch

E 2 1/4” 9 1/8” 23 1/8” birch plywood

F 1 3/4”

20 1/2”

30 3/4”

birch plywoodG 1 3/4” 11 5/8” 20 1/2” birch plywood

H 2 3/4” 1 5/8” 30 3/4” birch

I 1 3/4” 1 5/8” 18 3/4” birch

J 1 3/4” 5” 18 3/4” birch

K 2 3/4” 4” 13 7/8” birch

L 1 3/4” 4” 23 1/2” birch

M 2 3/4” 2 3/8” 24” birch

N 2 3/4” 2 3/8” 13 7/8” birch

O 1 1/4” 14 5/8” 20” birch plywood

P 1 3/4” 13 3/8” 22 1/2” birch plywood

Q 2 1/2” 3/4” 13 7/8” birch

R 1 1/2” 3/4” 23 1/2” birch


S 1 3/4” 11 5/8” 20 1/2” birch plywwod

T 2 3/4” 2 3/8” 35 3/4” birch

U 2 3/4” 1 5/8” 35 3/4” birch

V 4 3/4” 3 1/2” 8 3/8” birch

W 1 3/4” 20 1/2” 35 3/4” birch plywwod

X 2 3/4”

1 5/8”

35 3/4”

birchY 1 3/4” 1 1/2” 18 3/4” birch

Z 2 3/4” 2 3/8” 34 1/8” birch

AA 2 3/4” 2 3/8” 13 7/8” birch

BB 1 3/4” 13 7/8” 23 1/2” birch plywwod

CC 2 1/2” 3/4” 14 3/8” birch

DD 1 1/2” 3/4” 24 1/2” birch

EE 2 3/4” 3/4” 13 7/8” birch

FF 1 3/4” 3/4” 23 1/2” birch

GG 3 3/4” 10 1/2” 19 3/8” birch plywwod

HH 6 1/2” 3/4” 11 1/2” birch

II 3 1/2” 3/4” 20 3/8” birch

Cutting Schedule

1/4” x 48” x 48”Birch Plywood Layout

3/4” x 48” x 96”Birch Plywood Layout

O

E

E

GG GG GG

BB

P G S

FW



Isometric

BB

AA

GG

II

DD

EE

FF

CC

HH

W

V

T

UX

Z

S

P

Q

R

I

C

A

E

N

M

B

J

LK

D

H

F

GO

Y



Side & Front Elevations

22 3/4”

11 3/4”

17”

SeeFigure 1

SeeFigure 5

SeeFigure

SeeFigure 7

SeeFigure

SeeFigure 2

SeeFigure 3

SeeFigure 4



Figure 2

Figure 1

Figure 3 Figure 4

TV

W

T

W

W

A

D

K

F

G

E

T

V

S

CC

HHII

EE

Location ofshelf support typ.

Location ofglass clip typ.

2

5/8”

5 5/16”



Figure 5

Figure 7

Figure 8

Figure 6

U

X

Z

W

W

W

ZL

J G

H

M

N

O

B

K

X

U

Y

Z

X

U

HH

AA

GG HHII

FF EE

DD CCII

Center latches

on both doors

Location ofhinges typ.

2”




Assembly Instructions

1. Assemble side panel frames (A, B, C, D) and (T, U, V), face frames (H, I, J) and (X, Y) and door frames (M, N) and (Z, AA)

Refer to Isometric and Elevations and Figures 1 through 8. Use 3/8” dowels and glue on all joints.

2. Route a 3/8” rabbet inside all side panel and door frames. Note that the corners of the rabbet are cut square in the upper cabi-

net for the glass panels (see Figures 1 and 3).

3. Locate and drill 1/4” holes for shelf supports. Refer to Elevations and Figure 2.

4. Glue panels E into lower cabinet side frames (A, B, C, D) and panel O into lower cabinet door frame (M, N).

6. Nail and glue lower cabinet sides (A, B, C, D, E) to subassembly (F, G). Refer to Isometric and Figure 4.

5. Use 1 1/4” finish nails and glue to assemble board G to board F. Refer to Isometric and Figure 4.

7. Attach lower cabinet face frame (H, I, J) to boards B using 1 1/4” finish nails and glue. Refer to Isometric and Figure 8.

8. Miter one end of boards K and both ends of board L as indicated in Isometric. Glue boards K and L to the base of the lower

cabinet. Refer to Elevations and Figures 4 and 8.

9. Use 1 1/4” finish nails and glue to assemble board S to board W. Refer to Isometric and Figure 3.

10. Nail and glue upper cabinet side frames (T, U, V) to subassembly (S, W). Refer to Isometric and Figures 1 and 3.

11. Attach upper cabinet face frame (X, Y) to boards U using 1 1/4” finish nails and glue. Refer to Isometric and

Figures 5 and 6.

13. Miter one end of boards Q and CC and both ends of boards R and DD as indicated in Isometric. Use 1” finish nails and glue

to attach R and Q to board P and CC and DD to board BB. Refer to Isometric and Figure 6.

14. Route a decorative edge on boards EE and FF (refer to Figure 6). Miter one end of boards EE and and both ends of board FF

as indicated in Isometric. Use 1” finish nails and glue to attach EE and FF to the upper cabinet.

15. Miter one end of boards HH and both ends of boards II. Attach boards HH and II to shelves GG using 1” finish nails and glue

16. Place the upper cabinet on top of the lower cabinet and paint the project.

17. Attach glass clips, hinges and door latches. Refer to Figures 1, 5 and 6. Install glass in upper cabinet.



U-BILD

Cedar Birdhouse



Bill of Material

Quantity Size Material Item1 5/8” x 7 1/4” x 72” cedar fence board A, B, C, D, E

1 5/8” diameter x 12” dowel F

1 7 1/4” x 11 3/4” 16 oz. copper sheet


1 box #4 x 7/16” copper tacks

1 bottle wood glue

If you spend a lot of time in the yard or garden during thewarm weather, then this do-it-yourself birdhouse will make agreat summer project. Not only will the birds love it, but as itages the wood (western cedar) will turn a soft silver color andthe copper roof will acquire a handsome green patina.

The project calls for just eight pieces and is easy enough forbeginners. To build, simply cut the parts out of inexpensivecedar fencing (other wood may be substituted), cut out, sand

and assemble everything using glue and finish nails. To fin-ish, roof the projects using sheet copper and copper tacks.

The project measures about 16 inches tall by 8 inches wideby 7 inches deep.

Cutting ScheduleItem Qty T W L Material

A 2 5/8” 4” 4” cedar

B 2 5/8” 4” 12” cedar

C 2 5/8” 5 1/4” 14 5/8” cedar

D 1 5/8” 6 3/4” 5” cedar

E 1 5/8” 6 3/4” 5 5/8” cedar

F 2 3” dowels

G 1 7 1/4” 11 3/4” copper sheet

NOTES




3. We used western cedar for this project, but

redwood or sealed pine will work equally

well.



A

A

B

B

C

C

DE

F

F

Pictorial



Front View

C

B B

F

F

A

DE

A

R 2

R 2

3 5/8”

2 5/8”

2 9/16”

2 9/16”

6 3/4”

2 1/2”

14 5/8”





1. Cut angles on one end of front and back boards (C). Refer to Front View and Pictorial.

2. Bore two 2” holes and two 5/8” holes in front board (C). Refer to Side and Front Views and Pictorial.

3. Attach sides (B) to bottom and interior boards (A) using using glue and 1” finish nails. Refer to Front View and Pictorial.

4. Attach front and back boards (C) to subassembly (A, B) using glue and 1” finish nails. Refer to Front View and Pictorial.

5. Glue dowels (F) into 5/8” holes in front board (C). Refer to Front View and Pictorial.

6. Attach roof board (D) to roof board (E) using glue and 1” finish nails. Refer to Front View and Pictorial.

7. Cut and bend copper sheet (G) to fit roof subassembly (D, E).

8. Attach copper sheet (G) to roof subassembly (D, E) using four 7/16” copper tacks spaced 1/2” in from each corner.

9. Attach roof subassembly (D, E, G) to boards (B) and (C) using glue. Refer to Front View and Pictorial.



U-BILD

Child’s Armoire



Bill of Material


1 1/8” x 48” x 96” hardboard M, T, U

1 1/2” x 48” x 96” plywood Q, R, S

1 1/8” x 13” x 31” pine plywood Z

47 board feet* 3/4” pine A, B, C, D, E, F, G,

H, I, J, K, L, N,

O, P, V, W, X, Y

6 pairs 16” drawer slides

8 1 1/2” wooden knobs

1 pair 3” door hinges

8 3/8” x 2” dowels

1 box 1” brads


1 bottle wood glue

1 quart finish

*includes 15% scrap

Just the right size for a child’s room, this handsome

armoire project adds valuable storage space wherever it’s

used. Six roomy drawers are complemented by a big

storage cabinet that can also be used as a wardrobe for

hanging clothes.

The child’s armoire measures about 45 inches tall by

38 inches wide by 18 inches deep.

Cutting Schedule


A 2 3/4” 16 1/4” 44 1/2” pine

B 1 3/4” 16 1/8” 37 1/2” pine

C 3 3/4” 16 1/8” 17 1/4” pine

D 1 3/4” 2” 34 1/2” pine

E 1 3/4” 2” 16 1/2” pine

F 7 3/4” 2” 16 1/8” pine

G 3 3/4” 1 1/2” 15 3/8” pine

H 2 3/4” 1 1/2” 44 1/2” pine

I 1 3/4” 1 1/2” 34” pine

J 2 3/4” 1” 33” pine

K 4 3/4” 1” 15 3/4” pine

L 1 3/4” 2 1/2” 33” pine

M 1 1/8” 35 1/4” 44 1/2” hardboard

N 1 3/4” 17 3/4” 37 1/2” pine

O 1 3/4” 1 5/8” 37 1/2” pine

P 2 3/4” 1 5/8” 17 3/4” pine

Q 12 1/2” 5 5/8” 16” plywood

R 10 1/2” 5 1/4” 13 3/4” plywood

S 2 1/2” 5 1/4” 31” plywood

T 5 1/8” 14 1/4” 16” hardboard

U 1 1/8” 16” 31 1/2” hardboard

V 5 3/4” 6 3/8” 16 1/4” pine

W 1 3/4” 6 3/8” 33 1/2” pine

X 2 3/4” 2” 34 3/8” pine

Y 2 3/4” 2” 12 1/4” pine

Z 1 1/8” 12 3/4” 30 7/8” pine plywoo

NOTES1. Read all instructions and check materials before beginning

work.



4. We used pine for this project, but any veneer plywood and

matching lumber (such as oak or birch) will work equally well.

5. Edge-gluing is required to achieve the necessary width of

boards A, B, C and N.



1/8” x 48” x 96” HardboardCutting Layout

1/2” x 48” x 96” PlywoodCutting Layout

Q Q

Q

Q

Q Q

Q

S SM

U

T

T T

T TQ

Q

QQ

Q

R R R R R

R R R R R

IsometricN

G

D

P

E

F

M

BC

H

U

S

Q

A

L

T

Q

R

V

W

Z

F

I

K

O

X

Y

J



Read all instructions before beginning any work. Cut all material to sizes shown in cutting schedule and layouts.


Figure 1Boards A, D, G, M

1. Cut a 1/8” deep by 3/8” wide rabbet on the back inside

edges of side boards (A). (Note that boards (A) are mir-ror images of each other.) Refer to Figure 1 and

Isometric.

2. Attach right side board (A) to boards (B) and (C) using glue and

1 1/4” finish nails. Check for squareness. Refer to Figure 2 and

Isometric. Note: If you intend to use the cupboard as a wardrobe

for hanging clothes, eliminate center shelf (C) and refer to steps

25 and 26.

1/8”3/8”

A

G

D

M

Figure 2Boards A, B, C

2 1/2”

AB

C

20 1/2”

37 1/2”

Figure 3Face Frame (H, I, J, K, L)

6”

6”

6”

6”

6”

6”

3. Assemble face frame boards (H), (I), (J), (K) and (L) using glue.

Refer to Isometric.

H

I

H

K

K

K

K

J

J

L





4. Attach face frame (H, I, J, K, L) to subassembly (A, B, C) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Isometric.

5. Attach board (D) to sides (A) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Figure 1 and Isometric.

6. Attach board (E) to left side (A) and board (B) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Isometric.

7. Attach boards (G) to boards (A), (D) and (J) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Note that center board G is attached only to

boards (D) and (J). Refer to Figure 1 and Isometric.

9. Cut a 1/4” radius on the top front and side edges of

board (N).

8. Attach drawer slide mounting boards (F) to

boards (A) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails.


Figure 4Boards F

Figure 5Boards N

2 1/2”

9 1/2”

16 1/2”

23 1/2”

30 1/2”

37 1/2”AA

F F

F

F

F

F

F

R 1/4” N





10. Attach top board (N) to frame boards (D), (G) and (J) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Isometric.

11. Cut a 1/4” deep by 1/8” wide dado on one side of drawer sides (Q). (Note that

half of boards (Q) are mirror images of the other half.) Refer to Figure 6.

12. Attach drawer sides (Q) to drawer fronts and backs (R) and (S) using glue and

1” brads. Refer to Figure 6 and Isometric.

13. Slide drawer bottoms (T) and (U) into dados in drawer sides (Q) and attach to

drawer fronts and backs (R) and (S) using 1” brads. Refer to Figure 6 and

Isometric.

14. Attach drawer fronts (V) and (W) using glue and 1” brads. Refer to Figure 6

and Isometric.

15. Attach drawer guides to boards (B), (F) and (Q). Refer to manufacturer’s instructions.

16. Insert cabinet back (M) into rabbets on boards (A) and attach to boards (A), (D) and (E) using 1” brads. Refer to Figure 1 and

Isometric.

17. Cut a 1/4” radius on the top front edge of trim boards (O) and (P). Refer to Figure 7.

Figure 6Drawer (Q, R/S, T/U, V/W)

Figure 7Boards (O) and (P)

1/4”

1/4”

1/8”

1/4”

3/4”

Q

V/W

R/S

T/U

R 1/4”

O/P





17. Cut a miter on one end of side trim boards (P) and attach to sides (A) using glue and 1 1/4” nails. Refer to Isometric.

18. Cut a miter on both ends of front trim board (O) and attach to board (L) using glue and 1 1/4” nails. Refer to Isometric.

19. Assemble door frame (X, Y) using glue and 3/8” by 2”

dowels. Refer to Figure 8 and Isometric.

20. Cut a 1/8” deep by 1/2” wide rabbet around the inside

edge of door frame (X,Y) using glue and dowels. Refer

to Figure 8.

21. Glue door panel (Z) into 1/8” deep by 1/2” wide rabbet

around the inside edge of door frame (X, Y). Refer to

Figure 8.

22. Attach door (X, Y, Z) to right face frame board (H) using 3” hinges. (Note that hinges are installed 4” from both ends of door.)

21. Sand and apply finish to cabinet, drawer fronts and door.

23. Attach 1 1/2” wooden knobs to drawers and door.

25. If you choose the wardrobe option for the armoire cabinet, eliminate center shelf (C)

per step 2 and install 1 3/8” clothes rod brackets centered on boards (A) and (B) and

3” below board (C). Refer to Figure 9.

26. Cut 1 3/8” clothes rod to length and install in brackets on boards (A) and (B). Refer

to Figure 9.

24. Install drawers.

Figure 8Door (X,Y, Z)

Figure 9Clothes Rod Location

Z

Y

X

9/16”

1 7/16”

1/8” deep by1/2” wide rabbet

3”

A

B

C

1 3/8” clothes rod



U-BILD

China SideboardPlan No. 927Copyright U-Build, Inc., 2004.


Bill of Material


1 3/4” x 48” x 48” veneer plywood C

1 3/4” x 48” x 96” veneer plywood A, B, D, E, K

9 bd. ft.* 3/4” lumber of choice F, G, H, I, J, L, M, N, O, P

22 3/8” x 1 1/2” dowels


4 pairs 3/4” x 2” wraparound hinges8 3/16” diameter x 3/4” shelf supports

4 magnetic latches

4 1” knobs



1 can wood filler

1 bottle wood glue

1 quart finish of choice

*Includes 20% scrap

Combining the best features of a sideboard and a china cab-inet, this handsome china sideboard project is perfect forsmaller spaces and casual living. There’s plenty of roomfor serving on top, and dishes, serving pieces, silver andlinens are safely stored and displayed behind temperedglass doors in the cabinet below.

The project measures 60 inches long by 30 inches tall byby 15 inches deep.

NOTES

1. Read manufacturer’s instruc-

tions before operating equip-

ment.

2. Always wear safety glasses.3. We used oak for this project

but any veneer plywood and

matching lumber (such as

pine, birch or maple) will

work equally well.

Cutting Schedule


I 1 3/4” 3” 46” lumber of choice

J 2 3/4” 1 1/2” 29 1/4” lumber of choice

K 1 3/4” 15” 50” veneer plywood

L 2 1/4” 3/4” 15 1/4” lumber of choice

M 1 1/4” 3/4” 50 1/2” lumber of choice

N 8 3/4” 1 1/2” 24 5/8” lumber of choice

O 8 3/4” 2” 7 7/8” lumber of choice

P 4 3/4” 1 1/2” 4” lumber of choice


A 1 3/4” 13” 47 1/2” veneer plywood

B 1 3/4” 13” 26 1/4” veneer plywood

C 1 3/4” 47 1/2” 29 1/4” veneer plywood

D 2 3/4” 13 3/4” 29 1/4” veneer plywood

E 2 3/4” 12 1/2” 23 1/4” veneer plywood

F 2 1/4” 3/4” 23 1/4” lumber of choice

G 1 3/4” 2” 24 3/4” lumber of choice

H 1 3/4” 1 1/2” 46” lumber of choice



Pictorial

B

E

P

F

H

O

N

J

G

I

D

L

K

A

C

M

48” x 48” PlywoodCutting Layout

48” x 96” PlywoodCutting Layout

C

A B

E

E

K

D D



Pattern 1A Pattern 1B

A

A

Pattern 1Board D

A

A

A

A

Pattern 1A

Pattern 1B



A A

A A

Pattern 2A

Pattern 2B

B B



Pattern

2A

Pattern2B

Pattern2C

A A

B B

Pattern 2Board I

B B

Pattern 2C

Center

Line

Center

Line



1. Attach shelf trim (F) to leading edges of shelves (E) using glue and 1” finish nails. Refer to Pictorial.

2. Miter top trim boards (L) and (M) and attach to top (K) using glue and 1” finish nails. Refer to Pictorial.

5. Drill 3/16” diameter holes for shelf supports through center divider

(B). Refer to Figure 1.

6. Drill 3/16” diameter by 3/8” deep holes for shelf supports in sides (D).

Refer to Figure 2.



B

D

Figure 2Board (D)

Figure 1Board (B)

3. Trace Pattern 1 onto sides (D), cut out curve and sand. Refer to Pattern 1 and Pictorial.

4. Trace Pattern 2 onto face frame base (I), cut out curve and sand. Refer to Pattern 2 and Pictorial.

1 1/2”

11 5/8”

11 5/8”

Back Front

2 1/4” 1 1/2”

13 1/8”

13 1/8”

14 5/8”

14 5/8”



7. Attach center divider (B) to bottom (A) using glue and 1 1/2” finishnails. Refer to Figure 3 and Pictorial.

8. Attach back (C) to subassembly (A, B) using glue and 1 1/2” finish

nails. Refer to Figure 3 and Pictorial.

9. Attach sides (D) to boards (A) and (C) using glue and 1 1/4” finish

nails. Refer to Figure 3 and Pictorial.

10. Attach top subassembly (K, L, M) to boards (C) and (D) using glue

and 1 1/4” nails. Refer to Figure 3 and Pictorial. Note: Rear edge

of board (K) is flush with back (C).

10. Assemble face frame (G, H, I, J) using

glue and 3/8” dowels. Refer to Figure

4 and Pictorial.

11. Attach face frame (G, H, I, J) to boards

(A), (B) and (D) using glue and 1 1/4”

nails. Refer to Pictorial.

12. Assemble doors (N, O) using glue and

3/8” dowels. Refer to Figure 4 and

Pictorial.

13. Cut a 3/8” wide by 1/8” deep rabbet

around inside edges of doors (N, O).

Refer to Figure 4 and Pictorial.

14. Install hinges and glass retainer clips

on doors (N, O). Refer to Figure 4.



Figure 3Subassembly (A, B, C, D, K, L, M)

Front View, Left Side

Figure 4Face Frame (G, H, I, J) andDoor Frame (N, O) Detail

Front View

D

A

H

N

O

G

J

I

B

C

K, L, M

23 3/8”

22”

3 1/4”TYP

3/8” wide by 1/8”

deep rabbet (for

door glass)

6”TYP





9”

Location of magnetic

door latches

Figure 5Boards (P)

Front View, Left Side

Figure 6Door Knob Position

(TYP)

N

M

J

H P

P

O

15. Attach latch mounting boards (P) to

upper face frame board (H) usingglue. Refer to Figure 5 and Pictorial.

16. Attach magnetic latches to mounting

boards (P). Refer to Figure 5.

17. Install knobs on door stiles (N). Refer to Figure 6.

18. Sand project.

19. Apply finish of choice.

20. Install glass.

8”

3/4”

N

O



U-BILD

Closet OrganizerPlan No. 743Copyright U-Build, Inc., 2002.


Bill of Material

Central UnitQuantity Size Material Item

3 3/4” x 48” x 96” particle board A through L

1 1/8” x 48” x 48” hardboard M1 1 3/8” diameter x 36” dowel N

3 1 1/2” diameter x 36” dowels O

1 pair 1 3/8” dowel supports

1 bottle wood glue


Bill of Material

Closet Connectors(for 6’ closet as pictured)


2 3/4” x 11 1/4” x 18”* particle board shelves

4 3/4” x 3/4” x 11 1/4” pine shelf supports

3 1 3/8” x 18”* dowels

3 pairs 1 3/8” dowel supports

*adjust these dimensions for a custom fit in your own closet




4. Use 1 1/4” finish nails and wood glue on all joints.

Cutting Schedule

Central UnitPart Qty T W L Material

A 2 3/4” 20” 78” particle board

B 2 3/4” 1 1/2” 34 1/2” particle boardC 3 3/4” 20” 34 1/2” particle board

D 1 3/4” 34 1/4” 34 1/2” particle board

E 1 3/4” 19 1/4” 34 1/4” particle board

F 3 3/4” 15 3/4” 19 1/4” particle board

G 4 3/4” 7 7/8” 15 5/8” particle board

H 8 3/4” 7 7/8” 18 1/2” particle board

I 4 3/4” 7 3/8” 14 1/8” particle board

J 1 3/4” 18” 19 1/4” particle board

K 1 3/4” 4” 18” particle board

L 1 3/4” 9 1/2” 34 1/2” particle board

M 4 1/8” 14 13/16” 18 3/4” hardboard

N 1 1 3/8” 34” dowel

O 6 1/2” 17 7/8” dowels

This closet organizer project can help any closet reach its full, unclut-

tered potential. It has compartments for suits and jackets, long coats and

dresses, shirts and blouses, pants, hats and shoes, plus four drawers for

socks and other smaller items. Built primarily from particle board, the

project is easy to set up and take down.

The closet organizer can be customized to fit a closet of almost any

size; the center unit measures 78 inches tall by 36 inches wide by 20

inches deep.



Particle BoardCutting Layouts

E

L

H

C

A

G

G

G

G

B

A

I I I I

C C D

USE THIS SCRAP FOR ADJUSTABLE SHELVES (CLOSET CONNECTORS)

H H H H H H H K J

F F F



Isometric

L

C

C

F

8”TYPI

H

M

G

H

D

J

E

C

K

N

A

A

B

O

6”

1 8 ”

1 5 3 / 4 ”





1. Glue and nail boards B to base board C. Front board B is inset 3/4” from the leading edge of bottom board C. Back board B is

flush with the back edge of bottom board C.

Note: For steps 1 through 7 refer to Isometric.

2. Glue and nail bottom board C to board D.

3. Glue and nail middle board C to board D. Check for squareness.

4. Insert board E between bottom board C and middle board C. Glue and nail board E to boards C and D.

5. Glue and nail sides A to boards C and D. Glue and nail top board C to sides A.

6. Insert boards F between right side A and board E and glue and nail in place. Insert board J between left side A and board E and

glue and nail in place.

7. Glue and nail board L to boards A and top board C.

8. Center 1 3/8” dowel supports on sides A and attach 3” below top board C.

9. Cut and sand radius on boards G.

Refer to Figure 1.

Figure 1BOARD G

R 4 5/8”

Figure 2SECTION VIEW OF DRAWER SIDE

G

3/8”M

HH

I

10. Route a 3/8” dado on boards G and H. Refer to Figure 2.

11. Insert drawer botttom M into dados in boards G and H. Nail

in place. Refer to Figure 2.





12. Drill six 1/2” holes in board K. Refer to Figure 3. Glue

dowels O into the holes.

13. Glue and nail board K to board D. Refer to Isometric.

Figure 3BOARD K

C

2 1/8” 2 3/4” 2 3/4”

K

A

Figure 4CLOSET INSTALLATION

Figure 5SHELF INSTALLATION

14. To install the project in a 72” closet as pictured, place the central unit in the center of the closet and anchor to the back wall

Attach pine shelf supports to sides A and side walls of closet and install 18” shelves. Attach 1 3/8” dowel supports to sides A

and side walls of closet and install 18” dowels. Refer to Figures 4 and 5.

18”

72”

CENTRAL UNIT

SHELF

SHELF SUPPORT

SIDE A/ CLOSET

WALL



U-BILD

Curio Table



Bill of Material

Qty Size Material Item

1 3/4” x 48” x 96” oak plywood D, G, H, P, Q

1 1/2” x 48” x 48” oak plywood R

1 1 1/2” x 1 1/2” x 150” oak A, B, E

1 1 1/2” x 2” x 110” oak C, F, J

9 bd. ft. 3/4” oak I, K, L, M, N, O, S

48 3/8” x 1” oak dowels

4 1 1/2” wood knobs

1 1/4” x 17 5/8” x 31 5/8” tempered glass

16 3/8” flat plugs

16 1” coarse drywall screws



1 bottle wood glue

1 can oak wood filler

1 quart stain


Cutting Schedule


A 4 1 1/2” 1 1/2” 16 1/4” oak

B 2 1 1/2” 1 1/2” 19” oak

C 2 1 1/2” 2” 19” oak

D 2 3/4” 11 1/2” 19 3/4” oak plywood

E 1 1 1/2” 1 1/2” 33” oak

F 1 1 1/2” 2” 33” oak

G 1 3/4” 11 1/2” 33” oak plywood

H 1 3/4” 19” 33” oak plywood

I 2 3/4” 1 1/2” 33” oak

J 1 1 1/2” 2” 33” oak

K 4 5/16” 3/4” 19 1/2” oak

L 1 3/4” 7/8” 33” oak

M 2 3/4” 7/8” 18 1/8” oak

N 2 3/4” 3 1/4” 37 1/2” oak

O 2 3/4” 3 1/4” 17” oak

P 4 3/4” 5 1/8” 19 3/4” oak plywood

Q 4 3/4” 4 1/8” 31 3/8” oak plywood

R 2 1/2” 32” 19 3/4” oak plywood

S 2 3/4” 5 3/16” 32 7/8” oak

If you like to collect things, this handsome curio coffee table

can help ease the storage crunch. The project is topped with a

piece of heavy glass with a drawer underneath that provides

almost four square feet of display space.

The curio table measures about 38 inches long by 24 inches

deep by 17 inches tall.

NOTES• Read manufacturer’s instructions before operating equipment.

• Always wear safety glasses.

3/4” x 48” x 96” Oak Plywood

Cutting Layout

D

HG

P

P

Q

Q

Q

Q

P

P

D

1/2” x 48” x 48” Oak Plywood

Cutting Layout

RR



Isometric(Note: Board F not shown)

N

E

N

LK

O

G

H

M

I

A

N

I

J

B

D

AC

C

R

S

SQ

Q

P

D

1/4”GLASS



Figure 1Curio Coffee Table Cross Section

O

B

K

D

P

Q

R

C

J

A

S

G

I

Location of six 1”

drywall screws typ.

Location of

knobs typ.

H

M

N

I L

E

1/4”GLASS

3 7/8”

12 7/16”

9 3/8”

6 5/16”

2”





1. Attach boards (A) to boards (B) and (C) using glue and dowels. Refer to Isometric and Figure 1.

2. Rout a 3/8” by 3/4” deep rabbet around inside edges of side subassemblies (A, B, C). Radius the corners of boards (D) and glue

in place. Refer to Isometric and Figure1.

3. Rout a 3/8” by 3/4” deep rabbet on one edge of boards (E) and (F). Glue (E) and (F) to board (G). Refer to Figure 2.

4. Attach subassembly (E, F, G) and upper board (I) and board (J) to sides (A, B, C, D) using glue and dowels. Refer to Isometr

and Figures 1 and 2. Note: Do not install lower board (I) at this time (see Step 5).

Figure 2Boards (E), (F), (G), (N), (O)

F

N

E

G

O





5. Glue board (I) to board (H). Use 1 1/4” finish nails and glue to attach subassembly (H, I) to boards (D) and (G). Refer to Figure

1 for location.

6. Rout an optional decorative 1/4” cove around inside edges of boards (A), (B), (C), (E) and (F). Stop the cove 1” from the ends

of each board. Refer to Isometric and Figure 2.

7. Rout a 1/4” radius on outside corners of boards (A). Refer to Isometric.

8. Attach drawer rails (K) to boards (D) using 1” finish nails and glue. Refer to Isometric and Figure 1.

9. Glue board (L) to board (E) and boards (M) to boards (B). Refer to Isometric and Figure 1.

10. Attach boards (N) to boards (O) using glue and dowels. Refer to Isometric and Figure 1.

11. Rout a 1/4” radius around the outside edges of boards (N) and (O). Refer to Isometric and Figure 1.

12. Attach top frame (N, O) to the table base using glue and 1” drywall screws. Countersink and cover the screws with 3/8” plugs

Refer to Isometric and Figure 1.

13. Rout a 1/4” deep by 3/8” wide rabbet on the inside edges of top frame (N, O) to accommodate the glass. Refer to Isometric and

Figure 1.

14. Rout a 3/8” deep by 13/16” wide dado down the center of one side of boards (P). Rout a 3/8” deep by 1/2” wide dado on the

opposite side of boards (P) to accommodate drawer bottoms (R). Refer to Isometric and Figure 1.

15. Assemble boards (P) to boards (Q) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Slide drawer bottoms (R) into the grooves on boards (P)

Attach (R) to (Q) using 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Isometric and Figure 1.

16. Attach drawer fronts (S) to boards (Q) using six 1” drywall screws. Space the screws 1 1/2” from the ends of the drawers and

1” from the top and bottom edges. Countersink and cover the screws with 3/8” plugs. Refer to Isometric and Figure 1.

17. Attach knobs to drawer fronts (S). Refer to Figure 1.

18. Stain and finish project.

19. Cut glass to fit and place in rabbet on top frame (N, O).



U-BILD

Display CabinetPlan No. 865Copyright U-Build, Inc., 1997.


Bill of Material


1 3/4” x 48” x 96” oak plywood A, B, C, D, E

4 board feet 3/4” oak F, G, H, I,

J, K, L, M

1 3/16” x 24” x 24” oak plywood N

1 1 1/16” x 1 1/4” x 60” oak molding P, Q


9 3/8” x 1” dowels

2 1” knobs

2 pairs 1 1/2” cabinet hinges


2 magnetic latches



1 bottle wood glue

1 small can oak wood filler

1 quart finish

Cutting Schedule


A 2 3/4” 7 3/4” 21 3/8” oak plywood

B 1 3/4” 7 1/4” 28” oak plywood

C 2 3/4” 6 1/4” 28” oak plywood

D 1 3/4” 7 3/4” 28” oak plywoodE 1 3/4” 28” 20 3/8” oak plywood

F 1 1/4” 3/4” 28” oak

G 2 1/4” 3/4” 28” oak

H 4 1/4” 3/4” 7 3/4” oak

I 2 1/4” 3/4” 21 7/8” oak

J 1 3/4” 2” 28” oak

K 1 3/4” 1 1/4” 19 1/8” oak

L 4 3/4” 1 1/4” 19” oak

M 4 3/4” 1 1/4” 10 3/4” oak

N 2 3/16” 11 1/2” 17 1/4” oak plywood

O 2 3/4” 1 1/4” 6” oak

P 1 1 1/16” 1 1/4” 31 5/8” oak molding

Q 2 1 1/16” 1 1/4” 9 1/16” oak molding

Wall-mounted or placed on a table or countertop, this handsome display cabinet is the perfect way to share any collection while keep-

ing it clean and protected at the same time. Featuring tempered glass doors and three shelves, the cabinet's design calls for all straigh

cuts and straightforward construction techniques (simple cut-outs give the effect of multiple panes of glass in the single-pane doors).

Finish is up to the builder, so the project will match any decor.The display cabinet measures about 32 inches wide by 22 inches tall by 9 inches deep, and the shelves are each about 7 inches deep

NOTES

1. Read all instructions and check materials before beginning work.


3. Cut all wood to exact size. Follow the cutting schedule.


5. Use wood glue on all joints.

6. Drill pilot holes in oak before nailing.



B

E

G

C

D

L

TEMPEREDGLASS

MN

K

F

A

I

O

J P

QH

Isometric



2. Use 1 1/2” finish nails and glue to attach boards C to E. Make sure that the boards line up square.

Refer to isometric and Figure 3 for location.



1. Use 1” nails and glue to attach boards H and I to boards A. Attach G to C and F to D in the same manner.

Refer to Figures 1 and 2 and isometric.

3. Use 1 1/2” finish nails and glue to attach boards B and D to E.

4. Use 1 1/2” finish nails and glue to attach boards A to B, C, D and E. Refer to Figures 1 and 2.

Figure 1 Figure 2(Note: Part “P” is not shown.)

Figure 3

I

A

F

Q

H

B

J

I

M

L

E

C

C

D

H

6 1/4

12



6. Use 3/8” x 1” dowels and yellow glue to attach boards K to J. Use the same procedure for door frame.

7. Use 1 1/2” finish nails and glue to attach J and K to A, B and D. Refer to isometric.

5. Drill a 3/8” hole in boards M and L

for 1” dowel. Refer to Figures 4 and5. Drill a 3/8” hole is boards J and

K. Refer to Figure 6.

Figure 5

Figure 6

Figure 4

M

L2

1 1/2

3/8 x 5/16 RABBET

3/8 x 1 DOWEL

GLASS CLIP

MAGNETIC LATCH

1/8 TEMPERED GLASS

N

J

B

O

M

LK

L

M3/8 x 1 DOWEL

GLASS CLIP





12. Rout a 3/8” x 5/16” deep rabbet on the inside edge of door L and M. Refer to Figures 4 and 5.

13. Apply finish at this time. Locate knobs in the middle of board L. Attach hinges and glass supports. Insert panel N and glass

Attach two magnetic latches to board O for doors. Refer to Figures 4, 5 and 6.

9. Glue two O boards to the inside face of board J. Refer to Figure 6 and isometric.

10. Cut and attach molding P and Q. Use 1” finish nails and glue. Refer to Figure 2 and Isometric.

11. Cut a small gain in board L door frame to accommodate hinges. The depth of the gain will be determined by the size of the hinge

and the amount of clearance around the door.

8. Drill a large hole in one of the pan-

els. Use a jigsaw or scrollsaw tocut out the six openings in board N.

Refer to Figure 7.

Figure 7



1/2

4 7/8

4 7/8

N



U-BILD

FootbridgePlan No. 896Copyright U-Build, Inc., 2004.


Bill of Material


2 1 1/2” x 5 1/2” x 120” lumber of choice A, B8 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 96” lumber of choice C, D

2 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 144” lumber of choice F

3 3 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 96” lumber of choice E

120 #10 x 2 1/2” flat head wood screws

12 3/8” x 5 1/2” carriage bolts

12 3/8” nuts

12 3/8” washers


Like a gazebo or an arbor trellis, a footbridge is one ofthose garden structures that helps transform a plain back-yard into a charming and livable outdoor space. Now do-it-yourselfers with a weekend to spare can add a footbridgeto their own yard or garden with this easy project.

The proportions of this footbridge make it an idealaccent for a garden path or an ornamental dry creek. Andif it's in the right place, it may even keep your feet dry.

The footbridge measures six feet long by 30 inches wideby 40 inches tall.

Cutting Schedule


A 2 1 1/2” 5 1/2” 27” lumber of choice

B 2 1 1/2” 5 1/2” 72” lumber of choice

C 2 1 1/2” 3 1/2” 30” lumber of choice

D 20 1 1/2” 3 1/2” 30” lumber of choice

E 6 3 1/2” 3 1/2” 40” lumber of choice

F 4 1 1/2” 3 1/2” 72” lumber of choice

NOTES

1. Read manufacturer’s instructions before oper-

ating equipment.


3. We used redwood for this project, but cedar or

treated lumber (painted) will work equally

well. Make sure that lumber has a low mois-

ture content to minimize shrinkage.



Pictorial

B

EF

D

AC





Figure 1Post (E) Detail

Figure 2(A, B, C, D, E) Detail

2. Sand and apply finish to boards (A), (B), (C), (D), (E) and (F). Allow to dry thoroughly.

1. Cut optional decorative detail on top end of posts (E). Refer to

Figure 1. (Note: Project is pictured with prefabricated post caps,

which may be substituted. Attach using glue and finish nails.)

3. Attach base sides (B) to base ends (A) using 2 1/2”

wood screws. Check for squareness. Refer to

Figure 2 and Pictorial.

4. Attach boards (C) to both ends of bottom of base

sides (B) using 2 1/2” wood screws. Check for

squareness. Refer to Figure 2 and Pictorial.

5. Attach boards (D) to the top of base sides (B) using

2 1/2” wood screws. Check for squareness. Refer

to Figure 2 and Pictorial.

BA

C

D

E

E

30

1 1/2”

3/4”TYP.

1”

1/2”

3/8”

3/4”TYP.

1 1/4” TYP.

1 1/2” TYP.

3 1/2” TYP.





Figure 4Rail (F) Detail

6. Attach posts (E) to base sides (B) using 3/8” x 5 1/2” carriage bolts. Drill countersink large enough for washers and deep enough

so that bolt head is flush with outside surface of post (E). Refer to Figures 2 and 3 and Pictorial.

7. Attach rails (F) to posts (E) using 2 1/2” wood

screws. Check for squareness. Refer to Figures 3

and 4 and Pictorial.

F

E

1”TYP.

1”TYP.

Figure 3Post (E) and Rail (F) Locations

BA

C

D

E

F

29 1/2”

16”

30”6” 6”30”



U-BILD

Hall TreePlan No. 934Copyright U-Build, Inc., 2003.


Bill of Material


5 3/4” x 6” x 96” lumber of choice B, E, G, H, I, J, K, L,

M, N, O, P, Q, R, T, U

2 3/4” x 48” x 96” plywood A, C, D, F, S

1 pair 2 1/2” x 1 3/4” butt hinges

4 coat hooks1 box 1” finish nails



1 bottle wood glue

1 can wood filler

1 quart primer

1 quart paint

Perfect for the entryway, living room or even one end of the dining room, this handsome hall tree features a con-venient place to hang coats, hats and umbrellas over agenerously sized storage bench.

Made from straight cuts of standard lumber and ply-wood, the project is easy enough for woodworkers of anyskill level.

The hall tree measures about 70 inches tall by 45 inch-

es wide by 21 inches deep.

Cutting Schedule


L 2 3/4” 2 1/2” 9 3/4” lumber of choice

M 2 3/4” 3/4” 6” lumber of choice

N 1 3/4” 5” 44 1/2” lumber of choice

O 1 3/4” 4 1/2” 41 1/2” lumber of choice

P 4 3/4” 2 1/2” 47 3/4” lumber of choice

Q 6 3/4” 2 1/2” 10 1/2” lumber of choice

R 1 3/4” 3 3/4” 44 1/2” lumber of choice

S 1 3/4” 15 1/4” 43 3/4” plywood

T 2 3/8” 3/4” 15 1/4” lumber of choice

U 2 3/8” 3/4” 44 1/2” lumber of choice


A 2 3/4” 18 3/4” 14 3/8” plywood

B 2 3/8” 3/4” 18 3/4” lumber of choice

C 1 3/4” 18 3/4” 40” plywood

D 1 3/4” 41 1/2” 14 3/8” plywood

E 1 3/8” 3/4” 41 1/2” lumber of choice

F 1 3/4” 41 1/2” 69 1/4” plywood

G 2 3/4” 2 1/2” 69 1/4” lumber of choice

H 2 3/4” 1 3/4” 16 1/4” lumber of choice

I 4 3/4” 2 1/2” 16” lumber of choice

J 2 3/4” 2 1/2” 16 1/4” lumber of choice

K 2 3/4” 2 1/2” 38” lumber of choice



3/4” x 48” x 96”Plywood Cutting Layouts

D

S

C A A

F

NOTES1. Read manufacturer’s instructions before operating equipment.


3. Drill pilot holes when using screws or finish nails to attach one board to another.

4. We used poplar and birch for this project, but oak or pine will work equally well.

5. We painted our project, but the builder may choose another finish.



PictorialNote: Bottom (C) not shown

R

O

P

Q

G

G

F

Q

Q

Q

Q

QN

SB

B

P

P

P

L

D

K

K

J

J

H

A

I

I

F

L

EU

T

M



Front View Side View

Top View

9 1/2” TYP.

6”TYP.

G

I

A

H

J K L

R R

O

G

F

Q

G

G

N UM

G

DK

P

NTS

U

F

M

J

F

C

D

CK

LD

FM P Q

U

T

U

N

C

3/4”TYP.O

F

Q

P P P P

A

H

I

I

G

G

G

Q Q

Q

F

L L

K

D

J

K

Q

S

R

10 1/2”TYP.

16 1/4” TYP.

5 1/4” TYP.

1 1/2”

UE

10 1/2” TYP.

11”TYP.





Figure 1

Board N

1. Attach trim boards (B) to top edges of sides (A) using glue and 1” finish nails. Refer to Pictorial.

2. Attach side assemblies (A, B) to bottom (C) using glue and 1 1/2” finish nails. Check for squareness. Refer to Top and Side

Views.

3. Attach trim board (E) to top edge of front board (D) using glue and 1” finish nails. Check for squareness. Refer to Side View.

4. Attach front assembly (D, E) to box assembly (A, B, C) using glue and 1 1/2” finish nails. Check for squareness. Refer to

Pictorial and Front, Side and Top Views.

5. Attach back (F) to box assembly (A, B, C, D, E) using glue and 1 1/2” finish nails. Note that back (F) should extend 1 1/2” past

the bottom of the box to form the project’s rear legs. Refer to Pictorial and Front, Side and Top Views.

6. Attach boards (G) and (H) to box and back assembly (A, B, C, D, E, F) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Pictorial and

Front, Side and Top Views.

7. Attach boards (I) each side of box assembly using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Pictorial and Side and Top Views.

8. Attach boards (J), (K) and (L) to front of box assembly using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Pictorial and Front View.

11. Attach board (N) to box assembly using glue and 1 1/2” finish nails. Refer to Pictorial and Front, Side and Top Views.

9. Attach boards (M) to front side of back panel (F) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Pictorial and Front, Side and Top

Views.

10. Cut notch and gain in both ends of board (N).

Refer to Figure 1.

6”TYP.

1 1/2”TYP.

1 3/4” TYP.

R 1/4”





12. Place project on its back and attach board (O) to top of back (F) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Pictorial and Front

and Side Views.

13. With project still on its back, attach boards (P) and (Q) to back (F) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Pictorial and Front

View.

14. Stand project up and attach board (R) to boards (G) and (O) using glue and 1 1/2” finish nails. Refer to Pictorial and Front, Side

and Top Views.

15. Attach trim boards (T) and (U) to edges of seat (S) using glue and 1” finish nails. Refer to Pictorial and Top View.

16. Cut gains for hinges in back edge of seat (S) using board (N) as a reference.

17. Sand and apply finish of choice to the project.

18. Install hinges and attach seat (S, T, U) to project.

19. Attach coat hooks to boards (P). Refer to Front View.



U-BILD

Hammock

FramePlan No. 868

Copyright U-Build, Inc., 1997.


Bill of Material


5 2” x 6” x 12’ Straight Grain Douglas Fir A, B, C, D

1 2” x 8” x 8’ Straight Grain Douglas Fir E

2 2” x 4” x 8’ Straight Grain Douglas Fir F

2 1/2” x 8” Eye Bolts

14 1/2” x 4 1/2” Carriage Bolts

8 1/2” x 3” Carriage Bolts

20 1/4” x 3 1/2” Lag Bolts

26 1/2” Flat Washers

20 1/4” Flat Washers

26 1/2” Nuts

1 gallon Waterproof Finish

Cutting Schedule


A 2 1 1/2” 5 1/2” 144” Straight Grain Douglas Fir

B 2 1 1/2” 5 1/2” 59 1/2” Straight Grain Douglas Fir

C 2 1 1/2” 5 1/2” 83” Straight Grain Douglas Fir

D 4 1 1/2” 5 1/2” 23 1/2” Straight Grain Douglas Fir

E 2 1 1/2” 7 1/4” 48” Straight Grain Douglas Fir

F 4 1 1/2” 3 1/2” 41 1/16” Straight Grain Douglas Fir

A good book, a tall glass of iced tea and the gentle swaying motion of a shady hammock on the patio, next

to the pool or in the yard-sounds like paradise, doesn't it? With a few basic tools and some inexpensive

materials, any do-it-yourselfer with a free weekend can create a place to relax and catch a few winks.This easy-to-build hammock frame project calls primarily for straight cuts and requires only basic con-

struction techniques.

Made entirely of straight-grain Douglas fir, the frame is not only sturdy, comfortable and safe, but it's

attractive enough to blend nicely with any landscaping.

Designed to fit a standard-size hammock sling, the completed project measures 16 feet long by 4 feet

wide.

NOTES

1. Read all instructions and check materials befo

beginning work.

2. Read manufacturer’s instructions before operati

equipment.

3. Cut all wood to exact size. Follow the cutting sche

ule.


5. Use only straight grain lumber for your hammo

frame project. Do not use any boards that ha

checks, splits, knots or defects.

6. When drilling the 1/2” holes in board B to hold t

eye hook, great care should be taken to ensure th

the hole is parallel to the face.



A

C D

B

E

F

E

A

A

A

C

D

B

AC

F

B

E

D

F

Section A-ACONSTRUCTION

DIAGRAMS



2. Use a jigsaw to cut angles and radii on all boards. Check the isometric for the location of all the joints and route all exposed edges

with a 3/8” radius bit.

3. Drill a 1 1/8” hole 1/4” deep on the top edge of board B. Drill a 1/2” hole through the rest of board B. See Figures 1 and 2. Note

The 1/2” hole must be parallel to the face of the board to ensure proper strength.



1. Cut all boards to the proper size. Refer to the cutting schedule and Figures 1 through 7.

Figure 2BOARD B

Figure 1BOARD B

56 3/4

1/2 TYP.

1 1/2

1/2

1 1/8

R 2 3/4

53 1/2

47 5/16

1 11/16

4 1/4

5 1/2

5 5/8

4 1/8





4. Locate and drill 1/2” holes in boards as shown in Figures. Countersink eight 1 1/8” by 1/2” deep holes on one side of one of the

A boards. Countersink two of the D boards and all of the F boards for washers and nuts. Refer to Figures 3, 4 and 5.

Figure 3BOARD A

Figure 4BOARD F

Figure 5BOARD D

72

49

45 3/8

1/2 TYP.

1 1/8 COUNTERSINK ON ONE SIDE OF ONEOF THE A BOARDS (TYP. BOTH ENDS)

2 3/4

41 1/16

7 3/8

1 1/8 COUNTERSINK TYP.

1 1/8 COUNTERSINK TWO OF THE D BOARDS TYP.

1/2 TYP.1/4 TYP.3/8

3/4

7/8

2 3/8

R 2 3/4

1/2 TYP.2 3/4

4 1/2

10 1/2

20 3/4

5 1/2

60o

150o

60o

60o

1 3/4

3 1

3

5 1/2

6

3





10. Drill six 1/4” holes in board E. Attach E to A using six 1/4” by 3 1/2” lag bolts and washers. Refer to Figure 6.

11. Insert two 3” carriage bolts through board E into F. Use one washer and nut for each bolt. Drill two 1/4” holes in the top

of board F. Use two 1/4” by 3 1/2” lag bolts and washers to attach board F to D. Refer to Figure 4.

Figure 6BOARD E

6. Use 2 1/2” drywall screws to temporarily hold board D to B and C.

7. Bolt board D to B and C. Use 4 1/2” carriage bolts.

8. Insert the 1/2” by 8” eye bolts and washers into board B. Use a washer and two 1/2” nuts as jam nuts to secure eye bolt.

9. Tighten bolts on board A.

5. Use a scrap piece of plywood cut at a 60 degree angle to align board B to board A. Use four 1/2” by 4 1/2” carriage bolts to attach boards A to B and C. Refer to Figures and isometric.

R 60

2 3/4

4 7/16

4 5/8

1 3/4

5 1/2

7 1/4

6 13/16

9 5/8

24

1/4 TYP.

1/2 TYP.

1

1 1/2

R 2 3/4





Figure 7BOARD C

8315 5/16

1/2 TYP.

9 5/16

2 3/4

11 13/16

8 11/16

1 13/16

3 5/8

5 1/2

30o30o



U-BILD

Hope Chest



Bill of Material


1 3/4” x 48” x 48” pine plywood E, F

1 1/2” x 48” x 48” mahogany* plywood L, M, N

1 1/2” x 24” x 48” Douglas fir plywood D

16 bd. ft. 3/4”

lumber of choice A, B, C, G, H,I, J, K, O

16 3/8” x 2” dowels**

1 pair 18” full-extension

drawer slides

1 pair 2” butt hinges

2 1” knobs

1 lid support



birch plugs

1 can wood filler

1 bottle wood glue


*This plywood may be labelled “luan”

**Biscuits may be substituted for dowels

Cutting Schedule(Some boards may require edge-gluing to achieve width)


A 4 3/4” 3” 23 1/4” pine

B 2 3/4” 3” 14” pine

C 2 3/4” 3” 14” pineD 2 1/2” 14 3/4” 17” Douglas fir plywood

E 1 3/4” 22 1/4” 33 1/2” pine plywood

F 1 3/4” 19” 33 1/2” pine plywood

G 1 1/4” 3/4” 33 1/2” pine

H 1 3/4” 10 1/2” 33 1/2” pine

I 1 3/4” 3” 33 1/2” pine

J 1 3/4” 3” 36” pine

K 1 3/4” 18” 36” pine

L 2 1/2” 7 5/8” 18 1/4” mahogany plywood

M 2 1/2” 6 5/8” 31 1/2” mahogany plywood

N 1 1/2” 18 1/4” 32” mahogany plywood

O 1 3/4” 7 7/8” 33 3/8” pine

A perfect marriage of form and function, this tradi-

tional hope chest is as useful in the den, dining room

or hall as it is in the bedroom. The project is great for

extra linens, but the large storage compartment and

generous drawer work just as well for games, CDs

DVDs, scarves and mittens, table linens or almost

anything else. And the handsome Craftsman style

complements any decor.

The hope chest measures 36 inches long by 24

inches tall by 21 inches deep.



3. Use glue and 1 1/2” finish nails on all joints unless otherwise noted.

4. We used pine for this project, but any veneer plywood and matching lumber (such as oak, birch or maple) will work

equally well.



Plywood Cutting Layouts

1/2” x 24” x 48”

Douglas fir plywood

3/4” x 48” x 48”

Pine plywood

1/2” x 48” x 48”

Mahogany plywood

D

K

D

E F

N

M

M

L L

D

EF

H

L

N

M

O

GB

D

A

C

I

J

B

A

C



1. Lay out and cut curves on boards (C), (E) an (I). Refer to Figures 1 and 2.

2. Attach board (G) to board (F) using glue and 1” finish nails. Refer to

Figure 3.

3. Attach board (E) to board (F) using 1 1/2” finish nails. Refer to Figure3.



Figure 1Board (C) Curve Layout

C

R 13”

3”

15/16”

Figure 3Subassembly (E, F, G)

G

E

F

10 1/2”

Figure 2Board (E) and (I) Curve Layout

E & I

R 83 7/16”

3”

15/16”





4. Drill 3/8” holes in boards (A), (B) and (C). Refer to Figure 4.

5. Assemble side frame subassemblies (A, B, C) using glue and 3/8”

dowels. Refer to Figure 4 and Isometric.

6. Route a 1/2” deep by 3/8” wide rabbet on the inside edges of side

frame subassemblies (A, B, C). Refer to Figure 4.

7. Glue side panels (D) into rabbets in side frame subassemblies (A,

B, C). Refer to Figure 4 and Isometric.

8. Attach sides (A, B, C, D) to subassembly (E, F) using glue and 1 1/2” finish nails. Refer to Isometric.

9. Attach front base board (I) to boards (A) using glue and 1 1/2” finish nails.


Figure 4Subassembly (A, B, C, D)

Figure 5Relative Position ofBoards (A) and (I)

1”

1”

A

A

I

C

D

B

1/2” x 3/8”

rabbet





10. Attach front panel (H) to boards (A) and (F) using glue and 1 1/2” finish nails. Note that board (H) is inset 1/4” from the out-

side edges of boards (A) and (G). Refer to Isometric.

11. Attach top board (J) to boards (A) and (E) using glue


12. Attach top (K) to board (J) using butt hinges. Refer to Isometric.

15. Install drawer (L, M, N, O) following drawer slide manufacturer’s instructions. Refer to Isometric.

13. Cut a 1/4” deep by 1/2” wide dado in drawer

sides (L). Refer to Figure 7.

14. Assemble drawer (L, M, N, O) using glue and

1” finish nails. Refer to Figure 7 and

Isometric.

1/2”

1/2”

J

A

E

Figure 6Relative Position of

Boards (A), (E) and (J)

1/4”

1/16”

7/16”

1/2”

L

N

O

M

Figure 7Relative Position of

Boards (L), (M), (N) and (O)





17. Install drawer knobs.




U-BILD

Jewelry BoxPlan No. 906Copyright U-Build, Inc., 2000.


Bill of MaterialQuantity Size Material Item

1 3/4” x 6” x 6’ Maple A, B, D

1 3/8” x 6” x 6’ Maple C, G, H,

I, J, K

1 1/2” x 3/4” x 5’ Maple Molding E, F

1 Pair 1 1/2” Butt Hinges

1 Small Box Lock

1 Small Bottle Wood Glue1 Pint Finish

Cutting SchedulePart Qty T W L Material

A 2 3/4” 4 1/4” 8 1/4” Maple

B 2 3/4” 4 1/4” 12” Maple

C 1 3/8” 7 1/2” 10 1/2” Maple

D 1 3/4” 9” 12” Maple

E 2 1/2” 3/4” 10” Maple

F 2 1/2” 3/4” 13” Maple

G 2 3/8” 1 3/4” 7” Maple

H 2 3/8” 1 3/4” 10 3/8” Maple

I 1 3/8” 6 5/8” 9 5/8” Maple

J 1 3/8” 1 3/8” 6 5/8” Maple

K 2 3/8” 1 1/2” 7 1/2” Maple

Even costume jewelry shines when it’s housed in an elegant,

handcrafted jewelry box. That’s what makes this jewelry box

project ideal for any collection. Made of maple for it’s beauty and

durability, the box features a lock for security and a convenient lift-out tray.

Utilizing all straight cuts and simple joinery techniques, the jewelry box is a good project for beginners. Just cut the

pieces to size, assemble, finish and install the hardware. The inside may be flocked or lined, or simply finished like the

outside.The completed jewelry box measures 13 inches wide by 10 inches deep by 5 inches tall.

NOTES1. Although maple is preferred for this project, other

wood may be substituted.

2. You may add more partitions to or relocate board (J) in

the removable tray.

4. Read manufacturer’s instructions before operating

equipment.


G H

A

K

C

B

D

B A

E

FE

F

I

H G

J



1. Read all instructions before beginning any work.

2. Cut all material to sizes shown in cutting schedule. (This is a good time to cut out the area for installing a lock

3. Glue and clamp boards (B) to boards (A). Check assembly for squareness.

4. Glue the bottom of the box (C) to assembly (A, B).

5. Glue and clamp boards (G) to boards (H). Check assembly for squareness. Glue the bottom of the box (I)

assembly (G, H).

6. Install board (J) with glue to tray assembly. Cut tray supports (K) to fit box assembly.

7. Cut 45 degree miter on molding pieces (E) and (F) and glue to box.

8. Sand, apply finish and install hardware.


A

GH

D

D1

3/16 TYP

3/8 TYP

B

C

E

I

H

G

3

E

A

J

K

A

G

B

F

H

B

F

K

C E

I



U-BILD

Lawyer’s Bookcase



Bill of Material*

Quantity Size Material Item8 3/4” x 6” x 120”** oak A, B, D, E, F

H, I, J, K

1 1/4” x 48” x 96” oak plywood C

36 3/8” x 1” dowels

16 3/8” x 1 1/2” dowels




4 1 1/4” wooden knobs

16 glass clips4 magnetic latches


1 box 1/2” brads

1 bottle wood glue


1 tube silicon caulking (optional)

*For project as pictured; (1) 16” case, (2) 14” cases, (1) 12” case

**Roughly 40 board-feet.

As common in law offices today as they were 100 years ago, traditiona

lawyer’s bookcases are designed for storing expensive law books.

Traditionally made of oak, the style is characterized by individual stacking

compartments, or cases, fronted by glass doors. The doors allow for total

visibility while protecting each case’s contents from dust and dirt.

This do-it-yourself version shares the classic features of the originals,

making it ideal for displaying books or almost anything else. Like the orig-

inals, the project is built one case at a time (following the same steps each

time) and stacked.

The completed lawyer’s bookcase measures five feet tall by four feet

wide by one foot deep. As pictured, the bottom case measures 16 inches

tall, the top one is 12 inches tall and the two middle cases are 14 inches tall

but the combination is up to the builder.

NOTES1. Read all instructions and check materials before

beginning work.

2. Read manufacturer’s instructions before operat-

ing equipment.


4. We used oak for this project, but any veneer ply-

wood and matching lumber (such as cherry,

pine or birch) will work equally well.

5. When using finish nails on oak, drill pilot holes

to avoid splitting.6. Edge-gluing is required to achieve the necessary

width of boards A, B and H (see cutting sched-

ules).

7. Accuracy in layout, cutting and construction is

critical in allowing the units to fit together prop-

erly and the doors to pivot and slide as designed

Check squareness of components as you build.



Cutting Schedule--Top


H 1 3/4” 11” 45 1/2” oak

I 2 3/4” 1 1/2” 11 5/8” oak

Cutting Schedule--Base


J 2 3/4” 3” 45 1/2” oak

K 2 3/4” 3” 11 5/8” oak

Cutting Schedule--12” Case


A 1 3/4” 11” 48” oak

B 2 3/4” 11” 11 5/8” oak

C 1 1/4” 11 1/2” 46” oak plywood

D 2 3/4” 5/8” 12” oak

E 2 3/4” 1 1/2” 11 1/8” oak

F 2 3/4” 1 1/2” 42 3/8” oak

G* 1 1/8” 8 5/8” 42 7/8” tempered glass

*Cut glass to fit after door frame is built.



A 1 3/4” 11” 48” oak

B 2 3/4” 11” 13 5/8” oak

C 1 1/4” 13 1/2” 46” oak plywood

D 2 3/4” 5/8” 14” oak

E 2 3/4” 1 1/2” 13 1/8” oak

F 2 3/4” 1 1/2” 42 3/8” oak

G* 1 1/8” 10 5/8” 42 7/8” tempered glass




A 1 3/4” 11” 48” oak

B 2 3/4” 11” 15 5/8” oak

C 1 1/4” 15 1/2” 46” oak plywood

D 2 3/4” 5/8” 16” oak

E 2 3/4” 1 1/2” 15 1/8” oak

F 2 3/4” 1 1/2” 42 3/8” oak G* 1 1/8” 12 5/8” 42 7/8” tempered glass




H

C

A

B

B

D

J

K

E

F

G

J

I

I



Front View (partial)

C C

H H

I I

A A

J J JK K

B

(behind D)

D D

B

7”TYP

1/4”Rabbet

5/8”TYP

1” DOWEL

9 3/4”

2”TYP

F

E

Side View

Door Front View

(partial)

1/4” wide by 1/8” deep rabbet



1. Cut a 3/4” wide by 3/8” deep dado in both ends of board (A).


2. Cut a 3/8” radius on upper front and side edges of board (A).

Refer to Figure 1 and Front and Side Views.

3. Cut a 3/8” wide by 3/8” deep blind dado on upper inside surface of boards (B). (Note that boards (B) are mirror images of each

other.) Refer to Figures 2 and 3 and Isometric.

4. Drill a 3/8” diameter by 3/8” deep hole below the blind dado on the inside surface of boards (B) for door supports. Glue a 3/8”

by 1” dowel into the hole. Refer to Figures 2 and 3 and Isometric.

5. Insert sides (B) into dados in board (A) and attach using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Front and Side Views and

Isometric.

6. Cut a 1/4” wide by 1/4” deep rabbet on back inside edge of subassembly (A, B). Refer to Side View and Isometric.

Figure 1Board A

Figure 2Board B(left side)

Figure 3Board B Section

(left side)

1/2”

1 1/2”

1 5/16”

7/8”

5/8”

3/4”

3/8”



R 3/8”

5/8”

1 5/16”

A

B B





Figure 4Boards B & D Section

Figure 5Door Detail

Figure 6Board F Section

7. Cut a 3/8” radius on front edges and both ends of boards (D).

Refer to Figure 4 and Side View.

8. Attach boards (D) to boards (B) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails.

Refer to Figure 4, Front and Side Views and Isometric.

9. Drill dowel pin holes in top and bottom edges of boards (B). Refer to Front and Side Views and Isometric.

10. Glue 1” dowels in top edges of boards (B). Refer to Front and Side Views and Isometric.

11. Assemble door frame (E, F) using glue and 1 1/2” dowels. Refer to Figure 5, Door Front View and Isometric.

12. Cut a 3/8” radius on front edges of door frame (E, F). Refer to Figure 6.

13. Cut a 1/4” wide by 1/8” deep rabbet on back inside edge of door frame (E, F). Refer to Figures 5 and 6 and Door Front View.

14. Install 1” dowels in boards (E) to serve as pivots for door hinges. Refer to Figure 5, Door Front View and Isometric.

B

F

DR 3/8”

1/4” wide by

1/8” deep rabbet

1/4” wide by1/8” deep rabbet

R 3/8”

3/4”

5/8”

9/16”





17. Assemble top (H, I) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Front and Side Views and Isometric.

16. Cut a 3/8” radius on front edges and corners of boards (I). Refer to Figure 8 andSide View.

19. Cut a 3/8” radius on front edges and corners of boards (K). Refer to Figure 9 and

Side View.

15. Cut a 3/8” radius on front edge of board (H). Refer to Figure 7 and Side View.

18. Drill dowel pin holes in bottom edges of boards (I). Refer to Front and Side Views and Isometric.

Figure 7Board H Section

HR 3/8”

Figure 8Board I

IR 3/8”

Figure 9Board K

KR 3/8”

20. Assemble bottom frame (J, K) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Front and Side Views and Isometric.

21. Drill dowel pin holes in top edges of boards (K). Refer to Front and Side Views and Isometric.

22. Glue 1” dowels in top edges of boards (K). Refer to Front and Side Views and Isometric.





23. Sand the project.

24. Apply finish to the project.

25. Install glass in the door frame using glass clips. Refer to figure 6. You may wish to apply a bead of silicon caulk to frame before

installing glass to keep glass from rattling.

26. Insert pivoting dowels in boards (E) into dados in boards (B). You may wish to apply wax to the dowels and dados for smoother

operation.

27. Insert back board (C) into rabbet in rear of case subassembly (A,B) and attach using 1/2” brads. Refer to Front and Side Views

and Isometric.

28. Stack cases in preferred configuration using dowel pins and match holes in boards (I), (B) and (K).



U-BILD

Linen Closet



Bill of Material

Qty Size Material4 or 5 3/4” x 6” x 96”* lumber of choice

1 1/8” x 13” x 24” masonite

1 1/4” x 28” x 65” plywood

1 1/2” x 10” x 46” plywood

1 3/4” x 48” x 96” veneer plywood**

1 1 1/2” x 1 3/4” x 68” molding***

1 pair 12” drawer guides

4 pairs hinges

4 door handles

2 knobs



1 bottle wood glue

12 3/4” wood screws

52 3/8” x 2” dowel pins


*Approximately 15 1/2 board feet required

**To match lumber of choice

***See Figure 2 for suggested molding profile

Cutting Schedule


A 2 3/4” 13 1/4” 68” veneer plywood

B 2 3/4” 13 1/4” 27” veneer plywood

C 1 3/4” 13”* 27” veneer plywoodD 3 3/4” 12 3/4” 27” veneer plywood

E 3 1/4” 3/4” 27” lumber of choice

F 1 3/4” 2” 19 1/2” lumber of choice


H 1 3/4” 4” 24 1/2” lumber of choice

I 2 3/4” 2” 68” lumber of choice

J 1 1/4” 27 3/4” 64 1/2” plywood

K 1 cut to fit molding

L 2 cut to fit molding

M 4 3/4” 2” 8 3/16” lumber of choice

N 4 3/4” 2” 31 15/16” lumber of choice

O 2 3/4” 8 11/16”* 28 7/16” lumber of choice

P 4 3/4” 2” 7 3/16” lumber of choice

Q 4 3/4” 2” 19 7/16” lumber of choice

R 2 3/4” 7 11/16”* 15 15/16” lumber of choice

S 2 1/2” 4 5/8” 12 3/4” plywood

T 2 1/2” 4 1/4” 22 1/2” plywood

U 1 1/8” 12 3/4” 23” masonite

V 1 3/4” 4 15/16” 24 7/16” lumber of choice

W 2 3/4” 6 1/2” 13” veneer plywood

X 4 1/2” 3” 6 1/2” plywood

*Edge-gluing required to achieve width

Anyone who’s ever grappled with the problem of home storage will

agree that you can never have too much. But no matter how much clos-

et space you have, there’s one thing you can’t change: a closet stays in

one place.

This country-style pine linen closet features three large shelves on

top, two shelves below and a big drawer in-between. Best of all, you

can put it wherever it works best: in the hallway, in the bathroom or in

a bedroom.The linen closet measures 68 inches tall by 29 inches wide by 14

inches deep.



3/4” x 48” x 96”Veneer PlywoodCutting Layout

NOTES

1. Read all instructions and check materi-

als before beginning work.

2. Read manufacturer’s instructions

before operating equipment.


4. We used pine for this project, but

almost any wood may be substituted.

5. Drill pilot holes for finish nails. W

D

B

B

A

A

D D

W C C

Isometric

B

D

O

R

H

E

D

D

C I

I

W

X

A

B

F

G

G

G

M

N

N

M

P

Q

Q

P

A

L

KL

J

E

E





1. Attach boards (A) to boards (B) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Isometric.

2. Rout a 1/4” by 3/8” wide rabbet around inside back edge of subassembly (A, B) for board (J). Refer to Isometric.

3. Attach trim pieces (E) to leading edges of boards (D) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Isometric.

4. Attach shelves (D, E) and (C) to subassembly (A, B) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Figure 1 and Isometric.

Figure 1Shelf Locations

3 1/2

13 1/2

42 3/4

53 1/2

32





5. Mark locations for dowel pins and drill face- and door-frame parts (F), (G), (H), (I), (M), (N), (P) and (Q). Use two dowels pins

per joint.

6. Assemble face frame (F, G, H, I) using glue and dowel pins. Clamp and check for squareness. Refer to Isometric.

7. Glue and nail face frame (F, G, H, I) to cabinet (A, B, C, D, E). Check for squareness. Refer to Isometric.

8. Attach drawer guide mounting blocks (W) and spacer blocks (X) to inside of cabinet sides (A). Drawer guide mounting blocks

(W) must be flush with opening for drawer. Refer to Isometric.

9. Attach back (J) to unit using 3/4” wood screws. Refer to Isometric.

10. Cut molding (K) and (L) to fit and attach to top of unit using glue and 1 1/4”

finish nails. Refer to Figure 2 and Isometric.

10. Cut raised panels (O) and (R) for cabinet doors. Refer to Figure 3.

Figure 2Molding (K) and (L)

Figure 3Door Section

K, L

O, R

M, N,

P, Q

1/4

15 degrees

1/8

1/8

1/4





11. Cut grooves in door frame components (M), (N), (P) and (Q) for cabinet door panels (O) and (R). Refer to Figure 3.

13. Cut grooves in drawer sides (S) for drawer bottom (U). Refer to

Figure 4.

12. Assemble doors (M, N, O) and (P, Q, R) using glue and dowels. Check for squareness and clamp. Refer to Isometric

and Figure 3.

14. Assemble drawer (S, T, U, V) using glue and 1

1/4” finish nails. Refer to Figure 5. Attach

drawer guide following manufacturer’s instruc-

tions.

Figure 4

Drawer Section

S

U

1/4

1/4

Figure 5Drawer Assembly

VT

T

U

S

S





15. Sand project and apply finish.

16. Install hardware, doors and drawer.



U-BILD

Lingerie ChestPlan No. 874Copyright U-Build, Inc., 2004.


Bill of Material


1 3/4” x 8” x 120” lumber of choice A, B, H, I

1 3/4” x 8” x 144” lumber of choice O

1 3/4” x 48” x 96” veneer plywood C, D, E, F, G

1 1/2” x 48” x 96” plywood L, M

1 1/4” x 48” x 96” plywood N

1 3/4” x 3/4” x 72” moulding (see Figure 6) J, K

7 3” on center drawer pulls


7 pairs 14” drawer slides

4 #10 x 1 1/4” flat head wood screws1 box 1 1/4” finish nails

1 can wood filler

1 bottle wood glue

1 quart finish of choice*

NOTE: Hardwood lumber sizes are provided as a base for your own calculations.

Individual boards vary in appearance and defects, which may affect your cutting

layout. Also, leftover scraps can often be reglued and used for other parts.

*We used a fast-drying polyurethane clear satin finish.

A striking combination of beauty and practicality, this lingerie chest displays a time-

less elegance that will ensure its place as a family heirloom. Its clean lines, sturdy con-

struction and simplicity of design make it a natural for almost any decor.

The chest features seven large drawers designed for lingerie, fine knits and other del-

icate articles of clothing. Its generously sized top makes an ideal display surface for

fresh flowers or photographs.

The lingerie chest measures about 27 inches wide by 17 inches deep by 59 inches tall.


I 2 3/4” 1 11/16” 17 3/16”* lumber of choice

J 1 3/4” 3/4” 25 1/8”* moulding

K 2 3/4” 3/4” 16 1/4”* moulding

L 14 1/2” 6” 14 1/2” plywood

M 14 1/2” 5 1/2” 17 5/8” plywood

N 7 1/4” 14 1/2” 18 1/8” plywood

O 7 3/4” 7” 20” lumber of choice


A 2 3/4” 2” 19 5/8” lumber of choice

B 4 3/4” 2” 57 1/4” lumber of choice

C 1 3/4” 19 5/8” 53” veneer plywood

D 2 3/4” 14” 53” veneer plywood

E 14 3/4” 2” 14” veneer plywood

F 2 3/4” 14” 21 1/8” veneer plywood

G 2 3/4” 15 1/2” 23 5/8” veneer plywood

H 1 3/4” 1 11/16” 27”* lumber of choice

*Approximate size only, cut all moulding to fit.

NOTES

1. Read manufacturer’s instructions

before operating equipment.


3. We used maple for this project,

but oak, pine or birch will work

equally well.



3/4” x 48” x 96”

Veneer Plywood

Cutting Layout

1/2” x 48” x 96”Plywood Cutting Layout


D

D

C

F E E

EEEEEEEEEEE

E

F

G

G

L

L

L L

L L L L L

L L L L L

M M

M

M

M

M

M

M

MM

M M

M

M

N

N

N N NN

N



I

K

IH

G

C

F

B A

A

B

B

E

D

F

D

B

G

K

J

Isometric(Drawer Front O notshown in this view)

N

M

M

L

L



1. Cut legs on boards (B). Refer to Figure 1 and Isometric.

2. Assemble face frame boards (A) and (B) using glue and 3/8”

dowels. Check for squareness. Refer to Figure 2 and Isometric.

3. Attach rear leg boards (B) to back panel (C) using glue. Refer to Isometric.

Figure 1

Board B

Figure 2Face Frame (A, B)



4 1/4”

1 1/4”

B

B

A

5 1/4”

1”





44 9/16”

37 1/2”

30 7/16”

23 3/8”

16 5/16”

9 1/4”

2 3/16”

3”

2 1/4”

D

E

E

E

E

E

E

E

A

D

E

F

F

A

B B

A

D

E

B

BC

F

Figure 3Subassembly (D, E)

Figure 4

Cabinet Front View

Figure 5Cabinet Top View

4. Attach drawer slide mounting boards (E) to side

panels (D) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails.


5. Attach side subassemblies (D, E) to face frame (A, B) and back subassembly (B, C)

using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Check for squareness. Refer to Figures 4 and 5 and

Isometric.

7. Attach top and bottom boards (F) to cabinet subassembly (A, B, C, D, E) using glue and

1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Figures 4 and 5 and Isometric.

6. Drill four 3/16” holes in top board (F). Refer to Figure 5.





8. Laminate top boards (G) together using glue and 1

1/4” finish nails. Refer to Figure 6 and Isometric.

10. Attach top subassembly (G, H, I, J, K) to top board (F) from the inside using 1 1/4”

wood screws through pre-drilled holes inboard (F). Refer to Figure 5 and Isometric.

12. Assemble drawer boxes (L, M) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Figures 7 and 8 and Isometric.

11. Cut 1/4” wide by 1/4” deep dados in drawer sides (L). Refer to Figure 7 and Isometric.

13. Insert drawer bottom (N) into dados in drawer sides (L) and attach to boards (M) using 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Figure 8 and

Isometric.

14. Attach drawer guides to boards (L) and (E). Refer to manufacturer’s instructions.

9. Cut to fit and attach moulding (H), (I), (J) and (K) to

subassembly (G, G) using glue and 1 1/4” finish

nails. Refer to Figure 6 and Isometric.

20

1/4”

R 5/16”

3/4”

G

GJ, K

H, I

Figure 6Cabinet Top (G, H, I, J, K)

Figure 7

Drawer Section (L, M, N) Front View

Figure 8

Drawer Section (L, M, N) Side View

L L

N N

M M

1/4”

1/4”1/4”





14. Cut raised-panel design on side edges of drawer face boards (O). Refer to Figures 9 and 10.

15. Cut raised-panel design on top edge of top drawer face board (O) and on bottom edge of bottom drawer face board (O). Refer

to Figures 9 and 10.

16. Attach drawer faces (O) to drawer box fronts (M) using glue and clamps (drawer faces are centered horizontally on drawer

boxes). Refer to Figures 9 and 10. Note: drawer faces (O) may be attached from the inside of the drawer boxes using screws.

17. Sand cabinet and drawer faces.

18. Apply finish to cabinet and drawer faces.


20. Install drawer pulls. Refer to Figure 10. Note: measurements given in Figure 10 are consistent with 3” drawer pulls.

O

Figure 9Drawer Face Detail

Figure 10Drawer Face Front View

5/8”TYP.

3 3/8”

2 1/4”

2 15/16”

TYP.

3”

1/4”TYP.

1 1/2” TYP.

15

L

O

O

L



U-BILD

Oak Cabinet



Bill of Material

Quantity Size Material

5 or 5 1/2 3/4” x 6” x 96”* oak

1 1/8” x 48” x 37” oak plywood

1 1/2” x 10” x 34” plywood

1 pair 12” drawer guides

2 pairs flush mount “H” hinges

2 drawer handles

2 1” knobs

1 small box 1” finish nails

1 small box 1 1/4” finish nails


44 3/8” x 2” dowel pins**

*Approximately 20-22 board feet required.

**Biscuits may be substituted.

Cutting Schedule


A 2 3/4” 3” 26 1/2” oak

B 2 3/4” 2 1/4” 26 1/2” oak

C 2 3/4” 3” 8 1/4” oak

D 2 3/4” 4” 8 1/4” oak

E 2 1/8” 8 15/16” 20 3/16” oak plywood

F 2 3/4” 3” 26 1/2” oak G 1 3/4” 3” 22 1/2” oak

H 1 3/4” 2” 22 1/2” oak

I 1 3/4” 4” 22 1/2” oak

J 1 3/4” 13 1/2”* 27” oak

K 1 3/4” 15”* 30” oak

L 2 3/4” 4” 15” oak

M 1 3/4” 4” 30” oak

N 2 3/8” 3/4” 14 5/8” oak

O 1 3/8” 3/4” 29 1/4” oak

P 2 3/4” 5” 13 3/8” oak

Q 4 1 1/2”** 2 1/4” 5” oak

R 1 1/8” 27 3/4” 23 1/4” oak plywood

S 4 3/4” 2” 7 3/16” oak T 4 3/4” 2” 12 7/16” oak

U 2 1/8” 7 7/8” 9 1/8” oak plywood

V 2 1/2” 4 5/8” 12 3/4” plywood

W 2 1/2” 4 1/4” 20 1/2” plywood

X 1 1/8” 12 3/4” 21” oak plywood

Y 1 3/4” 4 15/16” 22 7/16” oak

*Edge-gluing required to achieve width.

**Face-gluing required to achieve thickness.

NOTES1. Read manufacturer’s instructions before operating equip-

ment.


3. We used oak for this project, but almost any lumber

(such as cherry or pine) will work equally well.

4. When using finish nails on oak, drill pilot holes to avoid

splitting.5. Finish project with builder’s choice of stain.

This versatile oak cabinet makes a great storage and display unit that looks great

any room of the house. In the kitchen, it’s perfect for table linens or dishes, and

makes a great sideboard or bar in the dining room. In the family room, use it as an en

table or TV stand and fill it with videotapes, CDs or games.

A handsome addition wherever it’s used, the project measures 27 inches

tall by 29 inches wide by 15 inches deep.

1/8” Oak PlywoodCutting Layout

X

R

U U

E E



Isometric

W

X

V

K

R

G

H

C

C

AE

J

5”

4”

2” F

F

S

S

T

TU

I

M

B

B

D

L

P

A E

V

Y

W

Q

Q

PN

Q

O

3”

Location of dowel pins typi-

cal for all joints (centered

on thickness and spaced

equidistantly on width).



1. Allowing for two dowels per joint, mark and drill side frame boards (A), (B), (C) and (D), face frame boards (F), (G), (H) and

(I) and door frame boards (S) and (T) for 3/8” dowels. Note that biscuits may be substituted for dowels. Refer to Isometric.

3. Insert plywood side panels (E) into side frames (A, B, C, D) and assemble using glue and 3/8” dowels or biscuits. Check for

squareness. Refer to Isometric.

4. Attach side subassemblies (A, B, C, D, E) to shelf (J) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Isometric.

5. Assemble face frame (F, G, H, I) and using glue and 3/8” dowels or biscuits. Check for squareness. Refer to Isometric.

6. Attach face frame (F, G, H, I) to cabinet using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Check for squareness. Refer to Isometric.

7. Attach top (K) to cabinet using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Isometric.

8. Route a 3/8” wide by 1/8” deep rabbet around the inside back edge of cabinet for back (R). Refer to Isometric.

9. Attach trim boards (L), (M), (N) and (O) to cabinet using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Isometric.

2. Cut a 1/8” wide by 3/8” deep dado in boards (A), (B), (C), (D), (S) and (T).

Refer to Figure 1.

Figure 1Typical Frame and

Panel Assembly

C, S

E, U

Outside

3/16”

3/8”







10. Attach spacer blocks (Q) to inside of cabinet side frame boards (A) and (B) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Isometric

11. Attach drawer guide mounting boards (P) to spacer blocks (Q) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Note that boards (P) must be

flush with sides of drawer opening. Refer to Isometric.

12. Insert plywood door panels (U) into door frames (S, T) and assemble using glue and 3/8” dowels or biscuits. Check for square-

ness. Refer to Isometric.

14. Insert plywood drawer bottom (X) into drawer sides (V) and assemble drawer (T, V, W, X) using glue and 1” finish nails. Check

for squareness. Refer to Isometric.

15. Install drawer guides on drawer sides (V) and drawer guide mounting boards (P) per manufacturer’s instructions.

17. Sand the completed cabinet.


19. Install doors.

20. Install finish hardware.

21. Install drawer on drawer guides.

13. Cut a 1/8” wide by 1/4” deep dado in drawer sides (V). Refer to Figure

2 and Isometric.

Figure 1

Drawer Assembly

V

X

1/4”

1/4”

16. Attach back (R) to cabinet using glue and 1” finish nails. Refer to Isometric.



U-BILD

One-Door Ice BoxPlan No. 723

Copyright U-Build, Inc., 2000.


Bill of Material


5 3/4” x 6” x 8’* oak




1 bottle wood glue

1 small can finish of choice

1 pair 1 5/16” x 3 3/8” 3/8” offset brass ice box hinges

1 2 1/4” x 2 1/16” brass ice box latch (right-hand)

1 brass ice box name plate

*About 20 board-feet of 3/4” oak

Cutting Schedule


A 2 3/4” 3” 23 1/4” oak

B 2 3/4” 2 1/4” 23 1/4” oak

C 2 3/4” 3” 10” oak

D 2 3/4” 4” 10” oak

E 2 3/4” 10” 16 1/4” oak

F 2 1/8” 10 1/2” 16 3/4” oak plywood

G 2 3/4” 3” 23 1/4” oak

H 1 3/4” 3” 16” oak

I 1 3/4” 4” 16” oak

J 1 3/4” 15 1/8” 20 1/2” oak*

K 1 3/4” 2” 20 1/2” oak

L 1 3/4” 2” 22” oak

M 2 3/4” 4” 16 3/4” oak

N 1 3/4” 4” 23 1/2” oak O 1 1/8” 21 1/4” 25 1/4” oak plywood

P 1 3/4” 16 3/4” 20 1/2” oak*

Q 2 3/4” 1 1/2” 16 3/4” oak

R 2 3/8” 3/4” 16 3/8” oak

S 1 3/8” 3/4” 22 3/4” oak

T 2 3/4” 2” 16 7/8” oak

U 2 3/4” 2” 12 5/8” oak

V 1 3/4” 12 5/8” 12 7/8” oak

W 1 1/8” 13 1/8” 13 3/8” oak plywood

*Smaller pieces of stock must be glued-up to create parts (J)and (P). 3/4” oak plywood may be substituted for (J).

NOTES

1. Read all instructions and check materials before

beginning work.


equipment.


4. Oak is preferred for this project for its authenticity

and beauty.

5. Drill pilot holes in oak before nailing.

There was a time when an ice box like this one could be found in almost every home. Although refrigerators have rendered them obso-

lete, antique oak ice boxes remain popular with collectors, even though they’re usually expensive and hard to find.

This do-it-yourself project and authentic reproduction is neither: it is both inexpensive and easy to build, making use of readily avail-

able materials and requiring only straight cuts. It’s also versatile, and makes a great end table or bedside table.

The one-door ice box measures 26 inches tall by 23 inches wide by 17 inches deep.



Isometric

P

A

A

C

C

B

B

H

S

G

G I

N

T U

V

W

U

T

Q

QK

A

B

F

J

D

E

L

M

CO

R





1. Mark location for dowel pins and drill pieces A, B, C, D, G, H, I, T and U. Refer to Figure 1.

2. Assemble and clamp face frame, side frame, and door frames using glue and 3/8" dowel pins as illustrated in Figure 1. Check

frames for squareness.

3. Route a continuous rabbet around the back side openings of the side panel and door frames and install 1/8" plywood panels F and

W. Refer to Figure 1.

4. Using a panel-raising bit, route around all four edges of parts E and V to create raised center panels. Glue center panels E and V

to plywood inserts F and W. Refer to Figure 1.

Figure 1Side Panel, Face Frame and Door Construction

(Back side of door and side panels)

C,H,U

C,H,U

E,V

F,W

A,G,T

A,G,T

D, I, U

D, I, U

A,G,T

A,G,T

Drill and install two 3/8” x 2”dowel pins at this location oneach joint.

Continuous 1/4” x 1/8”rabbet for 1/8” plywood.

5. Nail and glue completed side panels to J, K, L and front face frame. Refer to Isometric and Sections A-A and B-B in Figure 2.

6. Attach top (P), base (M, N) and trim (R, S) with glue and finish nails. Refer to Sections A-A and B-B in Figure 2. Route back of

unit for insertion of 1/8" plywood (O) (see Section C-C in Figure 2).

7. Route a 3/8” shoulder around the inside edges of the door to create a 3/8” offset. Refer to Section B-B in Figure 2.





8. Before final assembly, sand and apply finish of choice.

9. Mount door using 3/8” offset hinges. Once door is mounted, determine location and mount door latch.

CR

F

F

E

J J

L

N

D I

M

2”

Section A-A Section B-B Section C-C

Q P

K

P

3/8” or 1/2” radius (TYP.)

3/8” offset door (cut to fit 3/8”offset hardware).

W

O

O W

SH

U

U

V

E

A

B

GT V

Figure 2Sectional Views



U-BILD

Patio Wall & Planter



Bill of MaterialQuantity Size Material

1 4” x 4” x 8’ redwood, cedar or fir




4 8” x 8” concrete footings


1 small box 3” finish nails

1 small box 8d galvanized nails

1 bottle wood glue


beginning work.


equipment.


4. Redwood is preferred for this project due to its

durability and beauty. Douglas fir and pine also

make an attractive unit. The prototype pictured

was made of Douglas fir and pine.

5. Use wood glue along with finish nails to insure

strong joints.

6. Dimensional lumber was used for this project (e.g.,

the call out is for a 2" x 4", but the actual size is 1

1/2" x 3 1/2"). When selecting the 1" x 6" boardswith tongue and groove with v-joint, finished use-

able surface sizes vary between 5" and 5 1/4". The

cutting schedule will assume your boards are 5"

wide, finish size.

7. To insure that project assembles properly and is

built squarely, use a level and framing square dur-

ing each assembly step.

Cutting SchedulePart Qty T W L Material

A 1 4” 4” 87” redwood, cedar or fir

B 2 2” 4” 44 3/4” redwood, cedar or fir

C 12 1” 6” 44 3/4” redwood, cedar or firr

D 1 2” 4” 87” redwood, cedar or fir

E 4 2” 4” 44 3/4” redwood, cedar or fir

F 22 1” 4” 57 3/4” redwood, cedar or firG 2 2” 4” 87” redwood, cedar or fir

H 1 2” 4” 95” redwood, cedar or fir

I 1 2” 4” 49 1/4” redwood, cedar or fir

J 1 2” 4” 36” redwood, cedar or fir

K 2 2” 4” 23”* redwood, cedar or fir

L 2 2” 4” 15” redwood, cedar or fir

M 1 2” 4” 40” redwood, cedar or fir

N 2 2” 4” 18 1/2” redwood, cedar or fir

O 20 1” 4” 11 1/4” redwood, cedar or fir

P 7 1” 4” 16 1/2” redwood, cedar or fir

*Approximate; check desired mounting height based on distance to the ground

Just the thing to frame a corner of the yard or patio, this patio wall and

planter combination is great for hanging plants and flowers while shel-

tering the barbecue and outdoor dining area from the wind. Out in the

yard, it can screen off a corner where garden tools or garbage cans are

stored. The planter box is built separately, so the builder can decide

whether or not to include it.

The completed wall and planter unit measures about eight feet tall by

eight feet long.



Construction Diagram(P not shown)

G

B

AI

E

GF

E

H

E

E

N

N

M

O

L

L

K

K

J

O

O

F

D

C

B





1. Space concrete footings as shown in Figure 1. Footings should be set in holes and filled with concrete

for stability. Top of footing should be 2" to 3" above the natural grade. Check for level and squareness.

2. Cut 1/4" deep by 1 1/2" wide dados in boards (A), (D) and (G). Cut a 1/4"

deep by 3/4" wide dado in boards (A), (B) and (D). See Construction Diagram

and Figures 2, 3 and 4.

Figure 1Concrete Footing Layout

Figure 2 Figure 3

45 3/4” 46 3/4”

46 3/4”

67 3/4”1 3/8”

1 3/8”

9”

G D A

B

D A

B





3. Cut a 1/4" by 1/4" notch in the end of Boards (B) where they attach to board (A). See Figure 4.

Figure 4

Figure 5 Figure 6

4. Glue and finish nail boards (B) and (C) to (A). See Figures 4, 5 and 6 and the Construction Diagram. Note that you may have

to cut the bottom board (C) narrower to fit the length of the groove in boards (A) and (D).

5. Glue and finish nail (D) to (B and C). See Figures 5 and 6 and the Construction Diagram.

B

E

C

B

B

D C A

A

1/4”

1/4”





10. Cut 45-degree miter on (H) and (I). Glue and nail to top of panels. See Construction Diagram.

9. To complete second panel, glue and finish nail assembly (E, F, G) to first panel (A, B, C, D). Repeat this step for third panel

Refer to Construction Diagram.

8. Glue and finish nail boards (F) to boards (E). See Figure 7.

7. Cut 1/4" deep by 3/4" wide dados in boards (E) for slats (F). See Figure 7.

6. Nail first panel—created by boards (A), (B), (C) and (D)—to built-in straps on concrete piers. Use a brace to help support pane

during construction.

Figure 7

G

G

F

F

E

E

F

F

3”TYP.

3 1/4”

(EACH END)





12. Glue and nail board (J) to boards (K). Glue and nail boards (L) to subassembly (J, K). Refer to Figure 8

and Construction Diagram.

12. Cut 3/4" wide by 1/4" deep dados in boards (M) and (N). See Figures 9 and 10.

Figure 8

11. Cut notches in boards (J) and (L). See Figure 8.

K

JL

11" 2 "

1 1 /

2 "

1 1 / 2

"

3 1 / 2 " 1 1 / 2 "

Figure 9

M, N

1 1/2"

Figure 10

K M

3/4" x 1/4" dado

1 1/2"

13. Use wood screws or nails and glue to attach (M) to (K). See Figure 10 for proper mounting location.

1 1/2"




Assembly InstructionsPage Five

16. Glue and nail (N) to (K) and (O). Check for squareness.

17. Place planter unit in desired location. Notches in boards (L) rest on board (B). Refer to Construction Diagram. Check height

of boards (K). Nail into place. (You may wish to place boards (K) on concrete or redwood, or seal against water and insects.)

18. Place boards (P) on ledge formed by boards (B, J, L) in bottom of planter to support plants. Refer to Construction Diagram.

15. Glue and nail (O) boards to boards (L). Cut last board on each side to fit and notch same as board (L). Refer to Construction

Diagram.

14. Place boards (O) in grooves in board (M). Refer to Figure 11. Space equally, glue and nail.

Figure 11

M

O

1 1/2"



U-BILD

Pie SafePlan No. 886Copyright U-Build, Inc., 2004.


Bill of Material


26 board feet 3/4” pine A, B, C, D, E,

F, G, H, I, J

12 3/8” x 2” dowels

3 10” x 14” tin sheets

1 1 1/2” wood knob

3 1 1/2” x

1 1/2”

butt hinges1 door catch


1 bottle wood glue

1 can wood filler


You don’t have to be an antiques collector or even a baker

to appreciate this do-it-yourself version of a classic pie

safe. It features three shelves behind a single door, and its

convenient size and simple styling make it a good match

for almost any decor.

The pie safe measures about 40 inches tall by 21 inches

wide by 13 inches deep.

Cutting Schedule


A 2 3/4” 11 3/4”* 39 7/8” pine

B 1 3/4” 18 1/8”* 39 7/8” pine

C 3 3/4” 11”* 18 1/8” pine

D 2 3/4” 1 1/4” 39 7/8” pine

E 1 3/4” 2” 17 1/8” pine

F 1 3/4” 2 3/4” 17 1/8” pine

G 1 3/4” 13”* 20 5/8” pine

H 2 3/4” 2” 35” pine

I 2 3/4” 2” 13” pine

J 2 3/4” 2” 13” pine

*Boards A, B, C and G may require edge-gluing to

achieve width.

NOTES1. Read manufacturer’s instructions before operating equipment


3. Biscuits may be substituted for dowels.

A

B

G

C

E

D

F

H

J

TIN

I

Isometric



Figure 1Side Elevation

Figure 3Board H, I, J Detail

Figure 4Door Construction Detail

Figure 2Door Construction

G

C

A

H, I J

I

H

B

E

D

F 2 3/4”

H

J

I

14 1/2”

26 1/4”

11”

22”

3/4”

1/2” 1/8”

5/16”

2”



Assemble Pattern 1 as pictured.

Pattern 1

Board A



Center Line

Pattern 2

Board F



Pattern 3

Tin Design (50%)

Pattern 4

Optional Tulip Design (50%)



1. Cut a 1/8” by 1/2” groove in door frame boards (H), (I) and (J). Refer to Figures 2 and 3.

2. Drill face frame boards (D), (E) and (F) and door frame boards (H), (I) and (J) for 3/8” by 2” dowels. Refer to Isometric, Figure

4 and Pattern 2.

3. Assemble face frame (D, E, F) using glue and 3/8” by 2” dowels. Refer to Isometric.

4. Cut a radius in one end of boards (A) and (F). Refer to Isometric, Figure 1 and Patterns 1 and 2.

5. Attach shelves (C) to back (B) using glue and 1 1/2” finish nails. Refer to Isometric and Figure 1.

6. Attach sides (A) to boards (B) and (C) using glue and 1 1/2” finish nails. Refer to Isometric.

7. Attach face frame (D, E, F) to boards (A) and (C) using glue and 1 1/2” finish nails. Refer to Isometric.

8. Attach top (G) to boards (A), (B) and (E) and using glue and 1 1/2” finish nails. Refer to Isometric and Figure 1.

9. Using Pattern 3 as a template, punch the design in the tin door panels. You may wish to substitute Pattern 4 for the heart design

in Pattern 3.

10. Apply your finish of choice to the project.

11. Slide tin into grooves in door frame boards (H), (I) and (J). With the tin panels in place, assemble door frame (H, I, J) using

glue and 3/8” by 2” dowels. Refer to Isometric and Figure 2.

12. Attach door (H, I, J, tin) to the cabinet using three 1 1/2” butt hinges. Install the hinges on the left stile board (H) as follows

the first hinge 1 1/2” from the top, the second in the center and the third 1 1/2” from the bottom.

13. Install the door knob 6 1/2” from the top of the right stile board (H).

14. Install the magnetic catch to the bottom of upper shelf (C) and the inside of right stile board (H).





U-BILD

Plant TablePlan No. 791Copyright U-Build, Inc., 2004.


Bill of Material


2 1 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 72” lumber of choice A6 3/4” x 1 1/2” x 96” lumber of choice D, G, I

6 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 96” lumber of choice B, C, E, F

1 3/4” x 7 1/4” x 72” lumber of choice H


1 bottle wood glue

This do-it-yourself plant table is the perfect place to pre-pare plants for the garden. It’s also a great spot for repot-ting or for isolating diseased plants.

The project is about 34 inches tall—standard counterheight—by 46 inches long by 15 inches wide. It supportstwo removable trays, each measuring 7 inches tall by 21inches long by 17 inches wide. The trays, with cut-outhandholds, allow gardeners to carry flowers and plants to

the garden for planting or to move them for proper expo-sure to the sun. Both trays and the bottom shelf of thetable are slatted for drainage.

Cutting Schedule

Item Qty T W L MaterialA 4 1 1/2” 2 1/2” 34” lumber of choice

B 4 3/4” 3 1/2” 45 1/2” lumber of choice

C 4 3/4” 3 1/2” 13 1/4” lumber of choice

D 2 3/4” 1 1/2” 41” lumber of choice

E 11 3/4” 3 1/2” 13 1/4” lumber of choice

F 4 3/4” 3 1/2” 20 1/2” lumber of choice

G 4 3/4” 1 1/2” 19” lumber of choice

H 4 3/4” 7 1/4” 15” lumber of choice

I 22 3/4” 1 1/2” 15” lumber of choice

NOTES1. Read manufacturer’s instructions before



3. We used redwood for this project, but cedar

or treated lumber (painted) will work

equally well.



Pictorial

B

E

F H

GI

D

A

C



I

I

1/4”

1/4”

I

G

G G

B B

B

B

A AC C

CC

E E

D D

F

F

F

H

H

H

Side View (Table and Tray) Front View (Table and Tray)

Top View (Tray)

R 2

R 1

5 1/2”

2”

8 1/2”





1. Cut 3/4” x 3 1/2” notches in leg boards (A). Insert boards (B) into notches in boards (A) and attach using glue and 1 1/4” nails

Refer to Side and Front Views and Pictorial.

2. Attach boards (C) to leg subassemblies (A, B) using glue and 1 1/4” nails. Refer to Side and Front Views and Pictorial.

3. Attach shelf support boards (D) 3/4” below the top edge of the lower boards (B) using glue and 1 1/4” nails. Refer to Side and

Front Views and Pictorial.

4. Attach shelf boards (E) to shelf support boards (D) using glue and 1 1/4” nails. (Note: Boards (E) are spaced 1/4” apart.) Refer

to Side and Front Views and Pictorial.

5. Attach tray slat supports (G) to tray sides (F) using glue and 1 1/4” nails. Refer to Side, Front, and Top Views and Pictorial.

6. Cut a 2” radius on tray ends (H). Refer to Side View.

7. Drill two 1” holes in tray ends (H) and connect the holes (using a keyhole saw or jigsaw) to form tray handles. Form a 1/4”

radius on the handles and upper edges of boards (H) using a router, sander or rasp. Refer to Side, Front and Top Views.

8. Attach tray sides (F) to tray ends (H) using glue and 1 1/4” nails. Refer to Side, Front and Top Views and Pictorial.

9. Attach tray slats (I) to slat supports (G) using glue and 1 1/4” nails. (Note: Boards (I) are spaced 1/4” apart.) Refer to Side

Front and Top Views and Pictorial.



Planter BenchPlan No. 878Copyright U-Build, Inc., 1998.


Bill of MaterialMaterials for 3 planter boxes and 2 benches


1 3/4” x 4’ x 8’ Exterior Plywood A

2 1 1/2” x 1 1/2” x 8’ Redwood B

15 5/8” x 3 5/8” x 12’ Redwood S4S* C, D, E,

F, G, H, I

1 Small Box 1” Finish Nails

1 Small Box 2” Finish Nails

1 Small Bottle Wood Glue

1 Quart Finish

*S4S (surface four sides) material is milled smooth and is usually

5/8” thick.

Cutting ScheduleMaterial for 1 box*


A 2 3/4” 16 7/8” 16 7/8” Plywood

B 8 1 1/2” 1 1/2” 15 3/8” Redwood 2x2

C 20 5/8” 3 3/8” 16” Redwood 1 x4 S4S**

D 4 5/8” 1 3/4” 19 3/8” Redwood 1 x4 S4S**

E 4 5/8” 1 1/4” 19 3/8” Redwood 1 x4 S4S**

F 4 5/8” 1 3/4” 20 3/8” Redwood 1 x4 S4S**

Material for 1 bench*

G 4 5/8” 3 3/8” 36” Redwood 1 x4 S4S**

H 5 5/8” 1 1/4” 13 7/8” Redwood 1 x4 S4S**

I 2 5/8” 2 1/2” 36” Redwood 1 x4 S4S**

*The planter bench as pictured has 3 boxes and 2 benches.

**S4S (surface four sides) material is milled smooth and is usually

5/8” thick.

This simple and elegant planter bench project is ideal for the porch, patio or pool. Filled with plants and flowers, it will define a cor-

ner of the porch or patio with style.

Featuring all straight cuts and modular construction, the project allows the builder to decide what combination of planter boxes and

connecting benches works best for their own space. Bills of material are included for individual boxes and benches, as well as for the

combination pictured.

The planter bench as pictured is built from redwood for its beauty, strength and durability, although other woods can be substituted

if properly treated. The finished planter boxes measure about 20.5 inches square by 17 inches tall, and the benches measure 36 inch-

es long by 15 inches wide.

ISOMETRIC OF

PLANTER BOX

ISOMETRIC OFPLANTER BENCH

A

A

B

H

I

G

C

D

E




1. Glue and nail with 2" finish nails boards B to plywood A.

Make two units with a hole cut in the top unit for a planter

pot (see illustration 1).

2. Glue and nail with 1" finish nails boards C to plywood

frames. Lay boards out before nailing to achieve equal

spacing (see illustration 2). Check for squareness.

3. Glue and finish nail with 1" finish nails boards D, E and F

as shown in illustration 1 and 2.

4. Glue and finish nail with 1" finish nails boards H

to seat slats G. Space seat slats as shown in illus-

tration 1. Lay boards out before nailing to

achieve equal spacing (see illustration 3). Check

for squareness.

5. Attach boards I to front and back of bench with

1" finish nails and glue. Use sufficient glue and

nails, as these are the boards that give the bench

strength. Sand and apply finish.

Illustration 1

Illustration 2

Illustration 3

Illustration 4


6. Sand and apply finish to assembled planter boxes and benches.

Assemble boxes and benches as shown in illustration 4.

Diameter

of Pot

16 7/8

13 7/

F

A

C

A

B

A

C

E

B D

F

3

2

H

H

I

I

I

G



Potting BenchPlan No. 910Copyright U-Build, Inc., 2000.


Bill of Material


4 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 10’ redwood, cedar or fir

7 5/8” x 5 3/8” x 10’ redwood, cedar or fir

54 #7 x 1 5/8” wood screws


28 #8 x 3” wood screws


1 small can wood filler



Cutting Schedule


A 2 1 1/2” 3 1/2” 36” redwood, cedar or fir

B 2 1 1/2” 3 1/2” 65” redwood, cedar or fir

C 4 1 1/2” 3 1/2” 21” redwood, cedar or fir

D 2 1 1/2” 3 1/2” 21” redwood, cedar or fir

E 1 1 1/2” 3 1/2” 45” redwood, cedar or fir

F 1 1 1/2” 3 1/2” 48” redwood, cedar or fir

G 1 1 1/2” 3 1/2” 18” redwood, cedar or fir

H 3 5/8” 5 3/8” 45” redwood, cedar or fir

I 2 5/8” 5 3/8” 27 7/8” redwood, cedar or fir

J 2 5/8”

1”

11 11/16”

redwood, cedar or firK 2 5/8” 5 3/8” 23 1/4” redwood, cedar or fir

L 4 5/8” 5 3/8” 50 1/2” redwood, cedar or fir

M 1 5/8” 5 3/8” 50 1/2” redwood, cedar or fir

N 3 5/8” 5 3/8” 45” redwood, cedar or fir

O 2 5/8” 1” 16 1/8” redwood, cedar or fir

P 2 5/8” 5 3/8” 45” redwood, cedar or fir

Q 2 5/8” 5 3/8” 17 3/8” redwood, cedar or fir

R 1 5/8” 4 3/4” 16 1/8” redwood, cedar or fir

S 1 5/8” 4 3/4” 29” redwood, cedar or fir

NOTES1. Read all instructions and check materials





4. Although redwood is preferred for this pro-

ject, cedar or fir may be substituted.

This do-it-yourself potting bench makes it easy to get a head

start on warm-weather gardening. It features a generously-

sized work top with a hutch above for tools, seeds and small

pots. Below, shelves hold larger items, and a large compart-

ment is just right for bulky bags of potting soil, fertilizer or acovered compost container. Best of all, the design is simple

enough to build in a weekend or two, even if you're more gar-

dener than woodworker.

The potting bench measures about 51 inches long by 24

inches deep by 65 inches tall.



Construction Diagram 1(E, G and O not shown)

Q

N

N

N

P

M

D

K

K

C

C

A

H

H

H

I

I

J

J

B

B

C

A

F

L

L

L

L

P

S

R

Q



B

L

M

L

L

L

F

P

P

B

M

L

F

K

J

I

JH

C C

C C

A A

GD D

B

F D

C

A

C

I IB

J

L

M

E

B

P

OQ

P

S

O O N

N

QQ

RN

G

B

D

1/8” SPACE BETWEEN BOARDS (L)C

A

I

ID

C

A

Construction Diagram 2





1. Drill holes in boards (C), (E), (F), (H) and (K). Refer to Figures 1 through 4.

Figure 1Boards C

Figure 3Board F

Figure 4Boards H and K

Figure 2Board E

3/4”

3/4”

2 3/4”

4 1/4”

2 1/4”

3/4”

3/4”1”

1”1”

Center Line

Center Line

3/4”

1”

NOTE: Drill holesonly in one end of

boards (K).





2. Drill holes in boards (L), (M) and (N). Refer to Figures 5 through 7.

Figure 5Boards L

1”

HOLE LOCATIONFOR FRONT BOARD (L)

2”

Center Line

Figure 6Board M

Figure 8Boards A and B

Figure 7Boards N

1 3/8”

1 1/2”

21 1/2”

3 1/2”

4”

4 1/2”1 3/4”

2”(top board)

2 11/16”(middle board)2”

(bottom board)

1”

3. Notch boards (A) and (B) for boards (C). See Figure 8.





4. Drill holes in boards (I). Notch one of the (I) boards for board (E). Refer to Figure 9.

5. Attach boards (C) to boards (A) and (B) with 3" wood screws and glue.

6. Attach board (D) to (A) and (B) using 3" screws and glue.

7. Attach boards (E) and (F) to back and front of project using 2 1/2" wood screws and glue.

8. Use 3" wood screws and glue to attach (G) to (E) and (F).

9. Use 1 5/8" wood screws and glue to attach (I) to (G) and (K) to (C). Attach boards (J) to (I) and (H) using 1 1/4" finish nailsand glue.

10. Attach bench top boards (L) and backboard (M) with 1 5/8" wood screws. Do not glue so that the bench top boards may be

replaced.

11. Attach support boards (O) to the back of boards (N) using 1 1/4" finish nails and glue.

12. Assemble (P), (Q), (R) and (S) to (N) using glue and 1 1/4" finish nails.

13. Attach upper shelf assembly to boards (B) using 1 5/8" wood screws.

NOTE: For steps 5 through 13, refer to Construction Diagrams 1 and 2. Check assembly for squareness after completing each step.

Figure 9Boards I

1 1/2”

1”

1” 1”

1”

3 1/2”



U-BILD

PVC Dining SetPlan No. 665Copyright U-Build, Inc., 2003.


Bill of MaterialChair*


20 feet 1 1/2” Schedule 40 PVC Pipe

8 1 1/2” 90 degree PVC elbows

6 1 1/2” PVC tees

18” x 72” heavy canvas**

1 spool heavy-duty thread

1 can PVC cement

Table


16 feet 1 1/2” Schedule 40 PVC Pipe8 1 1/2” 45 degree PVC elbows

4 1 1/2” PVC tees

4 1 1/2” PVC caps

1 1/2” x 48” x 72” particle board

1 1/2” x 48” x 60” plastic laminate

1 pint contact cement

1 small bottle white glue

1 small box 3/4” finish nails

1 small can PVC cement

*Quantity listed is per chair

**For 4 chairs purchase 4 yards (36” x 144”) of heavy canvas

Do-it-yourselfers can create this attractive, weatherproof, light-

weight and durable outdoor dining set in a couple of weekends

and at a fraction of the cost of ready-made patio sets. The key is

PVC pipe.

Construction is simple. Just cut the pipe to length, assemble

with PVC cement and add the table top and chair seats.

The tabletop measures 48 inches square.

NOTES1. Read all instructions and disclaimer (see last page) and check materials before beginning work.



4. Use only Schedule 40 PVC pipe.

5. When using PVC cement, carefully follow directions.

6. The chair will safely hold up to 250 pounds.

7. If you wish to paint your PVC project, use plastic paint (check with your local home center). If you are painting the

project, lightly sand the PVC pipe first.

Cutting ScheduleChair*

Part Qty Size Material

A 3 20 1/4” 1 1/2” PVC pipe

B 2 6” 1 1/2” PVC pipe

C 2 10” 1 1/2” PVC pipe

D 2 8 1/2” 1 1/2” PVC pipe

E 2 6” 1 1/2” PVC pipe

F 2 12 1/2” 1 1/2” PVC pipe

G 4 22” 1 1/2” PVC pipe

H 1 18” x 54” heavy canvas

I 1 18” x 18” heavy canvasTable


A 4 10 1/2” 1 1/2” PVC pipe

B 8 4 1/4” 1 1/2” PVC pipe

C 4 24 1/4” 1 1/2” PVC pipe

D 1 1/2” x 48” x 48” particle board

E 2 1/2” x 3” x 48” particle board

F 2 1/2” x 3” x 42” particle board

G 8 1/2” x 2” x 6 3/8” particle board

H 8 1/2” x 2” x 2 3/8” particle board

I 4 1/16” x 2” x 48 3/4” plastic laminate

J 1 1/16” x 48 3/4” x 48 3/4” plastic laminate

*Quantity listed is per chair



Figure 1Chair Pictorial

H

G

G

A

B

C

E

F

D

A

A

I



Figure 2Table (top view)

Figure 3

Table (side view)

A

B

B

B

B

A

A

(Plastic laminate)

Particle board top

Edge of table top

A

C

I

B B

Rails

Leg supports1 1/2” PVC cap




Read all instructions before beginning any work.

1. Cut PVC pipe to length (refer to Cutting Schedule) and sand ends of pipe to remove rough edges.

2. Using elbows, tees and glue, assemble chair sides (B, C, D, E, F, G). Refer to Figure 1. Make sure the two sides are identical.

Figure 6Canvas Assembly (Parts H & I)

4. Measure and cut canvas to size (see Figures 4 and 5).

5. Sew a 3/8” hem on each lengthwise edge of pieces H and I (see Figures 4

and 5).

6. Fold each end of piece H under and sew as illustrated in

Figures 4 and 6.

7. Fold piece I in half and sew to piece H (see Figures 5 and 6)

18

18 1/2

54

39

20 1/2

F O L D

C A N V A S

H E R E

A T T A C H

( I ) H E R E

F O L D

C A N V A S

H E R E

T O P

O F C H A

I R

H

7 1/2 7 1/2

3/8HEM

F O L D

C A N V A S

H E R E

I

18

9

I

H

SEW AT THESE POINTS

Figure 4Canvas Layout (Part H)

Figure 5Canvas Layout (Part I)

18

3/8HEM





8. Install seat canvas assembly (H, I) on cross pieces (A). Refer to Figures 1 and 7.

10. Using elbows, tees and glue, assemble table base unit (A, B, C). Take particular care that legs (C) are vertical and the same length

Refer to Figures 2 and 3.

11. Cut table top (D), rails (E) and (F) and leg supports (G) and (H) to size. Refer to Cutting Schedule.

12. Attach rails (E) and (F) to underside of

table top using white glue and 3/4” finish

nails. Refer to Figures 3 and 8.

Figure 7Seat Canvas Installation

Figure 8

Position for Table Parts(E), (F), (G) and (H)

I

H

INSERT CROSS PIECES (A)

AT THESE POINTS

9. Using elbows, tees and glue, assemble chair unit sides (B, C, D, E, F, G) to cross pieces (A) and seat canvas (H, I). Refer to Figure 1

E

G

F

H





13. Using table base (A, B, C) as a guide attach leg supports (G) and (H) to underside of table top using white glue and 3/4” finish

nails. Refer to Figures 3 and 8.

14. Attach plastic laminate edge pieces (I) to table top edges using contact cement. Refer to Figure 3.

15. Attach plastic laminate table top piece (J) to table top (D) using contact cement. Trim flush with edges.

16. Place table top (D, I, J) onto table base (A, B, C).

DisclaimerCertain conditions, including but not limited to ultraviolet rays of the sun, may in time weaken PVC pipe. U-Bild disclaims any and

all liability for any damages sustained by anyone for any cause whatsoever, including but not limited to the construction and/or use of

this PVC project.



U-BILD

PVC Lawn SwingPlan No. 678Copyright U-Build, Inc., 2003.


Bill of Material


50 feet 2” Schedule 40 PVC Pipe30 feet 1 1/4” Schedule 40 PVC Pipe

26 feet 1” Schedule 40 PVC Pipe

10 2” 90 degree PVC elbows

6 2” x 2” x 2” PVC tees

4 2” x 1” x 2” PVC tees*


10 1 1/4” x 1 1/4” x 1 1/4” PVC tees

4 1” 90 degree PVC elbows

8 1” x 1” x 1” PVC tees

1 can PVC cement

2 5/16” x 5” eye bolt w/ nut and washer

4 5/16” x 4” eye bolt w/ nut and washer

18 feet 1 5/8” link straight link chain**

6 chain connectors

44 #8 x 1/2” sheet metal screws w/ washers

4 yards 58” wide heavy canvas

9 yards edging material for cover


2 18” x 22” cushions


* If 2” x 1” x 2” PVC tees are unavailable, use 2” x 2” x 2” PVC

tees fitted with 2” x 1” reducers

** 520 lb. working load limit

Cutting Schedule

Base Unit


A 1 50 1/2” 2” PVC pipe

B 8 6” 2” PVC pipe

C 2 48” 2” PVC pipe

D 4 72” 2” PVC pipeE 4 3 1/4” 2” PVC pipe

F 2 39” 2” PVC pipe

G 2 2 1/2” 2” PVC pipe

H 4 54” chain

Chair Unit


I 4 19 1/2” 1 1/4” PVC pipe

J 4 10” 1 1/4” PVC pipe

K 5 2 1/4” 1 1/4” PVC pipe

L 2 6 1/4” 1 1/4” PVC pipe

M 2 5” 1 1/4” PVC pipe

N 4 22 1/8” 1 1/4” PVC pipe

O 2 46” 1 1/4” PVC pipeP 1 43 1/2” x 52” canvas

Cover Unit


Q 4 2” 1” PVC pipe

R 2 3 3/4” 1” PVC pipe

S 4 14 1/2” 1” PVC pipe

T 2 40” 1” PVC pipe

U 4 16” 1” PVC pipe

V 2 35 1/2” 1” PVC pipe

W 1 56 1/2”x 96” canvas

X 1 26’ edging material

Believe it or not, anyone can create an inviting retreat like this com-

fortable lawn swing in about a day. The only materials required are

PVC pipe and adhesive, canvas, chain, cushions and assorted hard-

ware.

To build, just cut the pipe to length and assemble into three basic

units, attach the fabric and hang the seat. To finish, cut the cover

material to size and fit it over the cover frame, add seat cushions and

pour the iced tea.

The project measures about 5 feet by 6 feet at the base and stands 6feet high.




B

G

E

E

E

B

B

E

F

F

B

B

B

B

B

C

CAD

D

D

D

G

Base UnitConstruction Diagram

2” x 1” x 2”reducing tees

NOTES1. Read all instructions and disclaimer (see last page) and check materials before beginning work.




5. When using PVC cement, carefully follow directions.

6. The chair will safely hold up to 350 pounds.

7. If you wish to paint your PVC project, use plastic paint (check with your local home center). If you are painting the

project, lightly sand the PVC pipe first.



Cover UnitConstruction Diagram

Chair UnitConstruction Diagram

U

U

V

T

X

W

T

S

Q

Q

R

S

S

U

V

U

Q

Q

R

S

OSheet metal screws

and washers every 3”

(fabric attachment)

M

J I

JO

L

IN

N

P

J

I

M

J

L

I

N

K

K

K

N





1. Cut PVC pipe to length (refer to Cutting Schedule).

2. Sand ends of pipe to remove rough edges.

3. Using elbows, tees and glue, assemble sides of chair unit (I, J, K, L, M). Refer to Chair Unit Construction Diagram. Make sure

the two sides are identical.

4. Using elbows, tees and glue, assemble chair unit sides to cross pieces (N) and (O). Refer to Chair Unit Construction Diagram.

5. Drill holes and install eye bolts in chair unit. Refer to Figure 1.

6. Mark cross pieces (N) and (O) every 3” and drill holes for sheet metal screws to attach seat fabric. (Hole size is determinded by

screw size.) Holes are drilled in underside of upper cross piece (O), forward-facing surface of lower cross piece (O) and rear-fac-

ing surface of upper cross pieces (N). Refer to Chair Unit Construction Diagram.

Figure 1Chair Unit Bolt Location

JJ

N/O N/O

N/O N/O





10. Using elbows and tees, assemble cover unit without glue, making sure that cross members (Q, R, S) are aligned properly to mate

up with mounting points on base unit. Apply glue and reassemble. Refer to Cover Unit Construction Diagram.

8. Using sheet metal screws and washers, install fabric to chair frame as follows: Attach fabric to underside of upper cross piece (O)

wrap around and attach to lower cross piece (O). Working toward front of chair, pull fabric over and around upper cross pieces

(N), and attach from back. Refer to Chair Unit Construction Diagram.

9. Using elbows, tees and glue, assemble base unit. Take particular care that upper assembly (B, E, F, G) is aligned properly. Refer

to Base Unit Construction Diagram.

Figure 2Chair Fabric

P

43 1/2

5

4

52

7. Cut chair fabric to size. Refer to Figure 2.





11. Drill holes and install eye bolts in base unit. Refer to Figure 3. Attach chains to eye bolts using chain connectors.

12. Attach chair unit to base unit using chain connectors.

13. Attach cover unit to base unit. If you want the cover to be removable, do not glue parts (Q) to the base unit.

14. Using cover unit frame as

a guide, cut cover fabric to

size and attach edging.

Use Figure 4 for general

reference only.

Figure 3Base Unit Bolt Location

FF

EE

BB

DD

QQ

Figure 4Cover Fabric

W

96

9

56 1/2





15. Place cover fabric over cover unit frame (it is not necessary to attach the fabric with screws).

16. Place cushions on chair unit and adjust height by adjusting chain length.

DisclaimerCertain conditions, including but not limited to ultraviolet rays of the sun, may in time weaken PVC pipe. U-Bild disclaims any and

all liability for any damages sustained by anyone for any cause whatsoever, including but not limited to the construction and/or use of

this PVC project.



PVC

Twin SeaterPlan No. 726Copyright U-Build, Inc., 2000.


Bill of Material


50 feet 1 1/2” Schedule 40 PVC Pipe


18 1 1/2” PVC tees

1 piece 3/4” x 18” x 36” particle board

1 small can PVC cement2 yards 58” wide heavy canvas




Cutting Schedule


A 6 21 1/2” 1 1/2” PVC pipe

B 4 5 3/4” 1 1/2” PVC pipe

C 2 10 1/4” 1 1/2” PVC pipeD 4 7 1/4” 1 1/2” PVC pipe

E 6 23” 1 1/2” PVC pipe

F 2 7 1/4” 1 1/2” PVC pipe

G 4 10 1/4” 1 1/2” PVC pipe

H 6 2 1/2” 1 1/2” PVC pipe

I 2 5 1/2” 1 1/2” PVC pipe

J 4 10 3/8” 1 1/2” PVC pipe

K 3 20 3/4” 1 1/2” PVC pipe

L 2 19 1/4” 56 1/2” Canvas

M 2 16 1/2” 19 1/4” Canvas

N 1 3/4” 18” 29” Particle Board

O 2 3/4” 1 3/4” 18” Particle Board

NOTES

1. Read all instructions and check materials






5. When using PVC cement, carefully follow

directions.

6. Hardboard may be substituted for particle

board.

7. Each seat will safely hold up to 250

pounds.

8. If you wish to paint your PVC project, use

plastic paint (check with your local home

center).

It’s easy to see that outdoor furniture made from PVC pipe is

attractive, inexpensive, lightweight, durable, weather-resistant

and easy to clean and maintain. For do-it-yourselfers, it’s also

a snap to build.

This PVC twin seater project has two wide seats with a

convenient table in between, and takes only an afternoon or two to build. After sawing the pipe to length, simply fit it

together as shown. To finish, add canvas, seat cushions and a particle board tabletop.

The project measures about 64 inches long by 23 inches deep by 30 inches tall.





1. Cut PVC pipe to length (refer to Cutting Schedule).

2. Sand ends of pipe to remove rough edges.

3. Assemble pipe to check all lengths for correct size (see Figure 1). Do not cement at this stage.

A

H

E

B

K

K

K

B

C

D

A ED

J

J

G

I

E G

F A

A

H

G

AE

E

E

G

F

D

J

J

I

B

B

C

D

A

H

H

H

H

Figure 1





Figure 2

Figure 3Figure 4

4. Measure and cut canvas to size (see Figures 2 and 3).

5. Sew a 3/8” hem on each lengthwise edge of pieces L and M (see Figures 2 and 3).

6. Fold each end of piece L under and sew as illustrated in Figures 2 and 4.

7. Fold piece M in half and sew to piece L (see Figures 3 and 4).

19 1/4

21 1/2

56 1/2

41 1/2

20

F O L D

C A N V A S

H E R E

T O P

O F C H A I R

L

7 1/2 7 1/2

3/8

HEM

F O L D

C A N V A S

H E R E

M

16 1/2

8 1/4

ML

SEW AT THESE POINTS



N

O

Figure 5

Figure 6



8. Cement the sides of the chairs together (parts B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I and J and fittings). As you cement, line up each half to ensure

that they are the same size.

9. Fit the canvas over parts A and assemble to chair sides without cement. Make sure the canvas fits tightly on the chair frame.

10. Paint the project (optional) at this point (see Notes).

11. Cement parts A and K in place for final assembly of the PVC unit (see Figure 1).

12. Cut and assemble the table top (see figure 5). Radius each

end of parts O with a 1” radius.

13. Rout the edge of the table with a 3/8” radius.

14. Paint table and place on PVC unit (see Figure 6).



Space-Saver

WorkbenchPlan No. 916Copyright U-Build, Inc., 2000.


Bill of Material

Qty Size Material Item

3 3/4” x 48” x 96” plywood A, B, D, F, H,

J, L, M, O, R

1 3/4” x 5” x 72” lumber of choice C, E, G, I, K,

N, P, Q

1 3/4” x 7” x 96” lumber of choice S, T

4 2” x 4” x 96” lumber of choice U, V, W




1 can wood filler

1 bottle wood glue4 1 1/2” x 36” piano hinges

4 3” butt hinges

2 lid supports

12 3/16” shelf supports

2 latches

1 4” barrel bolt

4 3/8” x 3 1/2” lag bolts

1 quart finish*

*We used a fast-drying polyurethane clear satin finish

Cutting Schedule


A 1 3/4” 32” 71 1/4” plywood

B 2 3/4” 9 3/4” 71 1/4” plywood

C 2 1/4” 3/4” 71 1/4” lumber of choice

D 2 3/4” 9 3/4” 33 1/2” plywood

E 2 1/4” 3/4” 33 1/2” lumber of choice

F 1 3/4” 8 3/4” 71 1/4” plywood

G 1 1/4” 3/4” 71 1/4” lumber of choice

H 2 3/4” 8 3/4” 23 1/4” plywood

I 2 1/4” 3/4” 23 1/4” lumber of choice

J 3 3/4” 8 3/4” 23” plywood

K 3 1/4” 3/4” 23” lumber of choice

L 1 3/4” 7 7/8” 71 1/4” plywood

M 2 3/4” 4” 71 1/4” plywood

N 4 1/4” 3/4” 71 1/4” lumber of choice

O 2 3/4” 4” 8 7/8” plywood

P 4 1/4” 3/4” 4” lumber of choice

Q 4 1/4” 3/4” 9 3/8” lumber of choice

R 2 3/4” 22 1/2” 71 1/4” plywood

S 2 3/4” 3” 71 1/4” lumber of choice

T 2 3/4” 3” 24” lumber of choice

U 4 1 1/2” 3 1/2” 34” lumber of choice

V 4 1 1/2” 3 1/2” 21” lumber of choice

W 2 1 1/2” 3 1/2” 74” lumber of choice

If you’re a do-it-yourselfer, here’s a great way to maximize valuable

shop space: a full-size, wall-mounted workbench that folds up into

a neat, 13-inch-deep package. It even has space for a built-in light

and plenty of storage shelves.

The workbench is as easy to use as it is to build. To close, fold

the lightbox down, remove the cross braces from the legs, lift thebenchtop and latch into place. Fold the legs into the bottom of the

benchtop, shoot the bolt and slide the cross braces in behind the legs

The project measures about 72 inches long by 34 inches deep by

74 inches tall. It folds up to about 72 inches long by 13 inches deep

by 34 inches tall.






4. We used maple for this project, but almost any wood may be substituted.

3/4” x 48” x 96”

Plywood Cutting Layouts

A

B

B

M

M

D

L

R

R

D

O O

F

J

J

J

H

H



Pictorial

L

N

N

Q

E

M

A

O

B

B

D

D

F

H

J

C

R

S

TV

V

V

U

U

U

U

W W

E

I

P

T

G

K



A

V

V U

V

W

T a b l e i n d o w n p o s i t i o n

L i g h t b o x f r o m f r o n t i n o p e n p o s i t i o n

D r i l l 6 h o l e s 3 / 8 ” d i a m

e t e r a s s h o w n f o r 3 / 8 ” x 3 1 / 2 ” l a g b o l t s

w a l l s t u d s

D

T

H I

P

M

C

N

E

K

S

G

B

F

3 t y p .

1 3 t y p .

1

/ 8 ” g a p

t y p .

J

F i g u r e 1

F r o n t V i e w

L o c a t i o n o f l a t c h e s

( o n e o n e a c h s i d e )

A

M

L

S G D K

P

E

B

Q

O

B

R

T

S

V V

U

U

F J

6

2 9

F i g u r e 2

S i d e V

i e w



Figure 3Light Box

(bottom view)

L NM

Q

O

Figure 5Board T

41 1/2 R 5/16

Figure 4Table Assembly(folded position)

R

U

V VVV

U U

U

S

S

T

4” barrel bolt





1. Attach edge trim (C), (E), (G), (I), (K), (N), (P), and (Q) to boards (B), (D), (F), (H), (J), (M) and (O) using glue and 3/4” fin-

ish nails. Refer to Pictorial and Figures 1 and 2.

2. Drill 3/16” holes (for shelf supports) on both sides of boards (H) and on the

inside of boards (D). Refer to Figure 6.

3. Attach top and bottom subassemblies (B, C) to board (A) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Pictorial and Figures 1 and 2

4. Attach sides (D, E) to subassembly (A, B, C) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Check for squareness. Refer to Pictorial and

Figures 1 and 2.

5. Using vertical dividers (H, I) as placement guides, attach shelf (F, G) to cabinet using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Check for

squareness. Refer to Pictorial and Figures 1 and 2.

Figure 6Hole Pattern Diagram

(Boards D and H)

1 1/2

1 1/4

6

8

6. Using a square and shelves (J, K) as placement guides, attach vertical dividers (H, I) to cabinet using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails

Refer to Pictorial and Figures 1 and 2.





7. Attach light box sides (M, N) to light box top (L) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Pictorial and Figures 1 through 3

8. Attach ends of light box (O, P, Q) to subassembly (L, M, N) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Check for squareness. Refer to

Pictorial and Figures 1 through 3.

9. Using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails, fasten boards (R) together back-to-back (veneer side out) to create one, 1 1/2”-thick sheet for

the bench top.

10. Cut notches in boards (T). Refer to Figure 5.

11. Attach boards (S) and (T) to the edges of the bench top (R) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Pictorial and Figures 12 and 4.

12. Sand and apply finish to all parts, including leg boards (U), (V) and (W).

13. Attach light box to cabinet using piano hinge. Refer to Pictorial and Figure 2. Install lid supports. If using lid supports from

U-Bild Space-Saver Workbench Hardware Kit (No. 916HK), refer to Figure 7.

14. Install fluorescent light fixture in light box.

Figure 7

Lid Support Installation Guide

3 3/81 1/2

2 3/4

1 5/8

1 1/4

2 1/4

4 1/8

Measurements are intendedfor use as reference only.Before final installation,place open and locked lidsupports in position andadjust until light box is openexactly 90 degrees.





15. Attach bench top assembly (R, S, T) to cabinet using piano hinge. Refer to Pictorial and Figure 2.

16. Install latches on each side of cabinet and bench top assembly. Refer to Figure 2 for position.

17. Assemble leg boards (U) and (V) using glue and #8 x 2 1/2” wood screws. Refer to Pictorial and Figures 1, 2 and 8. Check for

squareness.

18. Attach leg assemblies (U, V) to bottom of table using 3” butt hinges. Leave a 1/8” gap between boards (U) and (T) when legs

are in the open position. Refer to Figure 1.

Figure 8Leg Screw Locations

3/4

U

V

3/4

19. Install a 4” barrel bolt to hold the legs in the closed position. Refer to Figure 4 for position.

20. Cut notches in cross-brace boards (W) to fit boards (V). Refer to Pictorial and Figure 1.

21. With bench top and legs in open position, attach cabinet to wall studs using 3/8 x 3 1/2” lag bolts. Refer to Figure 1. Make sure

legs are touching floor and bench top is level.



U-BILD

Storage Bins



Bill of MaterialQuantity Size Material Item

1 1” x 2” x 83” pine D, N

1 1” x 3” x 171” pine E, F, H, I, M

1 1” x 8” x 40” pine G

1 1” x 10” x 122” pine C, J, K

1 1” x 12” x 171” pine A, B, L

3 7 3/4” x 11 3/4” 1/2” x 1/2” wire mesh

3 pairs 1 3/8” x 2” butt hinges

3 1” porcelain knobs

1 friction lid support

1 magnetic catch

1 box 1 1/4”

finish nails1 bottle wood glue

1 can wood filler



A 2 3/4” 11” 39 1/4” pine

B 3 3/4” 11” 16 1/2” pine

C 1 3/4” 16 1/2”* 39 1/4” pine

D 2 3/4” 1 1/2” 39 1/4” pine

E 1 3/4” 2” 15” pine

F 1 3/4” 2” 15” pine

G 1 3/4” 12 1/4”* 19” pine

H 6 3/4” 2” 10 7/8” pine

I 6 3/4” 2” 10 7/8” pine

J 2 3/4” 9 1/4” 13 3/8” pine

K 2 3/4” 3 3/4” 13 3/8” pineL 4 3/4” 10 7/8” 10” pine

M 2 3/4” 2” 3” pine

N 1 3/4” 1 1/4” 2 1/2” pine

*Edge-gluing required to achieve width.



3. Edge-gluing may be required to achieve the necessary width of some pieces (see Cutting Schedule).

A true country classic, this build-it-yourself storage bin

unit is a practical, convenient and attractive way to keep

apples, potatoes, onions and other fruits and vegetables

fresh and dry. The secret is the wire mesh on the front of

each of the three bins that allows air to circulate freely

around the produce.

The top shelf is flat for storing canned goods or

dish towels. The two pull-out bins below, each measuring

10 inches deep by 15 inches wide, are sized to hold plentyof fruits and vegetables. The unit adds some old-fashioned

charm to the kitchen, too.

Because the curved cuts for the lower bins and

base are traced from full-size patterns, the project is easy

enough for novices.

The project measures 40 inches tall by 19 inches

wide by 12 inches deep.



A

D

E

M

B

F

K

L

I

H

J

C

G

Isometric



Side View

G

B

B

A

L

I

K

J

F

C

H

H

M M E

11”TYP.



Front View

F

C

A

D

I

H

B



Board A

Pattern 1

Board A

Pattern 1 Position

Figure 1

Pattern 1

2” 1 1/4”

A



Board F

Pattern 2

Figure 2

Pattern 2

(See Front View for Position)

F



Figure 3

Pattern 3

Board L

Pattern 3 Position

1

1

2

2

10 7/8”

3 3/4”

10”

L



1. Trace Pattern 1 onto the bottom end of boards (A), cut out curves and sand. Refer to Figure 1, Side View and Isometric.

2. Trace Pattern 2 onto the bottom edge of board (F), cut out curves and sand. Refer to Figure 2 and Isometric.

3. Trace Pattern 3 onto boards (L), cut out curves and sand. Refer to Figure 3, Side View and Isometric.



Figure 4Board B

Figure 5Boards H, I

4. Cut a 3/4” by 3/4” notch on the front cor-

ners of shelf boards (B). Refer to Figure 4.

9. Cut a 1/8” wide by 1/2” deep dado on the center of the inside edges of door

frame boards (H) and (I). Refer to Figures 5 and 6, Front View and Side View.

5. Attach shelf boards (B) to back board (C) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Note: notched edges of boards (B) face the fron

of the project. Refer to Side View and Isometric.

6. Attach sides (A) to subassembly (B, C) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Front View, Side View and Isometric.

7. Assemble face frame (D, E, F) using glue. Refer to Front View and Isometric.

8. Attach face frame (D, E, F) to subassembly (A, B, C) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Front View, Side View and

Isometric.

3/4”

3/4” 3/4”

3/4”

C E NT E R

L I NE

1/2”

1/8”

B

H, I



10. Apply finish of choice to door frame boards (H) and (I).

11. Insert 7 3/4” by 11 3/4” wire mesh panels into dados

in door frame boards (H) and (I). With the wire mesh

panels in place, assemble door frame (H, I) using

glue. Refer to Figure 6 and Isometric.

12. Once door frames (H, I) are assembled, fill void

space on the ends of boards (I) with wood filler.

Refer to Figure 6.



Figure 6

Door Detail

1/8” wide by 1/2” deep dadoFill w/ woodfiller

I

H

13. Attach bin back (K) to bin bottom (J) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Side View and Isometric.

14. Attach bin sides (L) to subassemblies (J, K) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Side View and Isometric.

15. Attach door frames (H, I) to bin subassemblies (J, K, L) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Side View and Isometric.

16. Attach cabinet top (G) to boards (A), (C) and (E) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Side View and Isometric.

17. Glue boards (M) together to create a 3” wide by 2” tall by 1 1/2” thick block. Refer to Side View and Isometric.

18. Attach subassembly (M, M) to the center of and flush with the top with board of (E). Refer to Side View and Isometric.

20. Attach bins (H, I, J, K, L) and top door (H, I) to boards of (B) using 2” butt hinges. Refer to Front and Side Views.

21. Attach knobs to upper boards (H). Center knob on board. Refer to Side View.

22. Using lid support as a guide, install lid support mounting board (N) to inside of top cabinet.

23. Attach lid support to mounting board (N) and inside of top door frame (H, I). Refer to manufacturer’s instructions.

19. Sand and apply finish to the project.



U-BILD

TV CabinetPlan No. 918Copyright U-Build, Inc., 2003.


Bill of Material


3 3/4” x 48” x 96” plywood A, B, C, D, L, N, Q, S, U

1 1/4” x 48” x 48” plywood X, Y

2 3/4” x 8” x 120” lumber of choice E, F, G, H, I, M, O, P, R, T, V, W, Z

1 3/4” x 3/4” x 96” moulding (see Figure 3) J, K

2 sets (right and left) 20” pocket door hardware

2 magnetic touch catches (optional)

32 3/8” x 2” dowels



1 can wood filler

1bottle wood glue1 quart finish of choice*

NOTE: Hardwood lumber sizes are provided as a base for your own calculations. Individual boards vary in appearance and defects,

which may affect your cutting layout. Also, leftover scraps can often be reglued and used for other parts.

*We used a fast-drying polyurethane clear satin finish over a medium stain.

Designed for a standard 32-inch TV (and some 36-inch TVs), this handsome television

cabinet features pocket doors for unobstructed viewing from any angle. Generous

accessory shelves will accommodate a cable or satellite decoder, a VCR or DVD play-

er, a home theater system, a video game system and more.

Overall, the television cabinet measures about 60 inches tall by 42 inches wide by 22

inches deep. The interior cabinet will accommodate a TV that measures 33 inches wide

by 33 inches tall.

Cutting Schedule


N 1 3/4” 19 3/4” 33” plywood

O 2 1/4” 3/4” 19 3/4” lumber of choice

P 1 1/4” 3/4” 33 1/2” lumber of choice

Q 2 3/4” 19 3/4” 32” plywood

R 2 1/4” 3/4” 32” lumber of choice

S 1 3/4” 19 3/4” 9 1/4” plywood

T 1 1/4” 3/4” 9 1/4” lumber of choice

U 1 3/4” 5 1/4” 32” plywood

V 6 3/4” 2” 14 7/8” lumber of choice

W 4 3/4” 2” 50 1/16” lumber of choice

X 2 1/4” 15 5/8” 31 11/16” plywood

Y 2 1/4” 15 5/8” 13 7/8” plywood

Z 4 3/4” 1 1/4” 20 1/2” lumber of choice


A 2 3/4” 21 1/4” 59 1/4” plywood

B 1 3/4” 40 1/2” 59 1/4” plywood

C 1 3/4” 22” 42” plywood

D 1 3/4” 20 1/2” 40 1/2” plywood

E 1 3/4” 2 3/4” 38” lumber of choice

F 1 3/4” 2” 38” lumber of choice


H 2 3/4” 1 11/16” 23 11/16” moulding

I 1 3/4” 1 11/16” 45 3/8” moulding

J 2 3/4” 3/4” 22 3/4” moulding

K 1 3/4” 3/4” 43 1/2” moulding

L 2 3/4” 19 3/4” 16” plywood

M 2 1/4” 3/4” 16” lumber of choice




3/4” x 48” x 96”Plywood Cutting Layouts

A

U

Q

Q

B

C D

L L N S

A



3. We used maple for this project, but oak, pine or birch will work equally well.

4. If you choose to install magnetic touch catches on the project, attach a 2” x 4” mounting block to the center

of the back side and flush with the bottom of board (E).

5. Once the project is finished, back panel (B) may require a cut-out to accommodate your television.

Y

Y

X

X



Isometric

C

E

G

G

Z

Z

A

A

B

V

V

V

V

V

Y

Y

U

N

L

M

O

O

L

T

R

R

Q

Q

S

W

W

W

W

V

XX

D

F

H, J

I, K

H, J

M

P



Figure 1Front, Side & Top Views

15 1/8”

A

G

E

V

V

V

W W

B

D D

U

X

G G

F

Y

A

E

A

A

Z

B

Z

H

EC Z

B

I C CH I

I

JK

K

S, T

Q, R

Q, R

L, M

U

N, P O N

Q

Q

6 1/4”

TV stand not shown in this view.



1. Attach sides (A) to back (B) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Isometric and Figure 1.

2. Attach top (C) to subassembly (A, B) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Check for squareness. Refer to Isometric and Figure 1

3. Attach bottom (D) to subassembly (A, B, C) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Check for squareness. Refer to Isometric and

Figures 1 and 2 .

4. Cut legs on boards (G). Refer to Figure 2.

5. Assemble face frame boards (E), (F) and (G) using glue and 3/8” dowels. Check for squareness. Refer to Isometric and Figures

1 and 2.

6. Attach face frame (E, F, G) to cabinet subassembly (A, B,C, D) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Check for squareness. Refer

to Isometric and Figure 1.

7. Attach moulding (H), (I), (J) and (K) to cabinet using glue

and clamps. Refer to Isometric and Figures 1 and 3.

Figure 2Leg Pattern



4 1/4”

1 1/4”

G

A

D

F

Figure 3Moulding Pattern

3/4”

1/4”

H, I

J, K

C 20





8. Attach trim strips (M) to side boards (L) using glue and 3/4” finish nails. Refer to Isometric and Figure 1.

9. Attach trim strips (O) and (P) to top board (N) using glue and 3/4” finish nails. Refer to Isometric and Figure 1.

10. Attach trim strips (R) to shelf and bottom boards (Q) using glue and 3/4” finish nails. Refer to Isometric and Figure 1.

11. Attach trim strip (T) to divider board (S) using glue and 3/4” finish nails. Refer to Isometric and Figure 1.

12. Attach sides (L, M) to top (N, O, P) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Isometric and Figure 1.

14. Attach divider (S, T) to the center of the underside of shelf (Q, R) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Isometric and

Figure 1.

15. Insert shelf and divider subassembly (Q, R, S, T) into box subassembly (L, M, N, O, P, Q, R) and attach to sides (L, M) and

bottom (Q, R) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Isometric and Figure 1.

16. Insert shear board (U) between top (N, O, P) and shelf (Q, R) and attach to sides, top and shelf using glue and 1 1/4” finish

nails. Refer to Isometric and Figure 1.

17. Assemble door frame boards (V) and (W) using glue and

3/8” dowels. Check for squareness. Refer to Isometric and

Figures 1 and 4.

18. Cut a 3/8” wide by 1/4” deep rabbet on the inside back edges

of door frames (V, W). Refer to Isometric and Figure 4.

13. Attach bottom (Q, R) to sides (L, M) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Isometric and Figure 1.

Note: Steps 8 though 16 apply to the TV stand only.

Figure 4Door Frame Construction

W

V

3/8” wide by1/4” deep rabbet.





20. Sand cabinet, doors and TV stand.

21. Apply finish to cabinet, doors and TV stand.

22. Using pocket door hardware to determine position, install hardware mounting boards (Z) to the inside of sides (A).

25. If necessary, using your TV set as a guide determine size and position of hole to cut in back (B).

23. Install pocket door hardware on doors (V, W, X, Y) and hardware mounting boards (Z) per manufacturer’s instructions.

24. Place TV stand inside cabinet.

19. Insert door panels (X) and (Y) into rabbets in back side of door frames and attach using glue and clamps. Refer to Isometric

and Figure 1.



Three-Piece Bedroom SetPlan No. 768Copyright U-Build, Inc., 2004.


Bill of Material



1 1/2” x 48” x 96” mahogany plywood

1 1/2” x 48” x 48” mahogany plywood

2 1/8” x 48” x 96” masonite

1 1/8” x 48” x 48” masonite

27 bd ft.* 3/4” oak 22 bd ft.* 3/4” pine

7 72” “J” molding**

15 pairs 14” drawer guides


1 bottle wood glue

30 1” flathead wood screws


as needed finish of choice

*Due to varied stock sizes available, knot patterns and defects in lumber, it is

impossible to give actual board sizes. Be sure to check longest lengths of

finished boards when considering lumber to purchase.**See Figure 3.

Here’s a great project for do-it-yourselfers who are tired of that old bedroomfurniture. The three-piece set features a handsome oak finish and clean linesthat blend well with any decor.

The finished dresser measures about 60 inches wide by 32 inches tall, thechest of drawers stands 32 inches high by 30 inches wide and the nightstand isabout 20 inches wide by 22 inches tall. All three pieces are 16 inches deep.



3. We used oak for this project, but pine or birch will work equally well.

4. Edge-gluing may be required to achieve the necessary width of some pieces.

5. When using finish nails on oak, drill pilot holes in the boards to be nailed.

6. The drawer was designed for drawer guides that require 1/2” of clearance on both sides.

7. The project as pictured was stained with a medium oak color.



Cutting Schedule--Dresser

Item Qty T W L MaterialA 2 3/4” 15 1/2” 31 9/16” oak plywoodB 4 1/4” 3/4” 15 1/2” oak C 4 1/4” 3/4” 32 1/16” oak D 1 3/4” 15 1/2” 57 3/4” oak plywoodE 2 1/4” 3/4” 57 3/4” oak F 1 3/4” 3 1/4” 57 3/4” oak G 1 3/4” 2” 57 3/4” oak

H 1 3/4” 4” 57 3/4” pineI 2 1/8” 29” 27 13/16” masoniteJ 12 3/4” 2” 28 1/2” pineK 12 3/4” 2” 11 1/8” pineL 16 1/2” 5 5/8” 14 7/8” mahogany plywoodM 16 1/2” 5 1/8” 26 1/2” mahogany plywoodN 8 1/8” 14 7/8” 27” masoniteO 8 3/4” 5 1/4” 28 3/8” oak P 8 3/4” 1 1/2” 28 3/8” oak “J” moldingQ 1 3/4” 15 3/4” 31 5/16” pineR 1 1/4” 3/4” 27 5/16” oak

Cutting Schedule--Chest of Drawers

Item Qty T W L MaterialA 2 3/4” 15 1/2” 31 9/16” oak plywoodB 4 1/4” 3/4” 15 1/2” oak C 4 1/4” 3/4” 32 1/16” oak D 1 3/4” 15 1/2” 28 1/2” oak plywoodE 2 1/4” 3/4” 28 1/2” oak F 1 3/4” 3 1/4” 28 1/2” oak G 1 3/4” 2” 28 1/2” oak H 1 3/4” 4” 28 1/2” pineI 1 1/8” 29” 27 13/16” masoniteJ 6 3/4” 2” 28 1/2” pineK 6 3/4” 2” 11 1/8” pineL 8 1/2” 5 5/8” 14 7/8” mahogany plywoodM 8 1/2” 5 1/8” 26 1/2” mahogany plywoodN 4 1/8” 14 7/8” 27” masoniteO 4 3/4” 5 1/4” 28 3/8” oak P 4 3/4” 1 1/2” 28 3/8” oak “J” molding

Cutting Schedule--Nightstand

Item Qty T W L MaterialA 2 3/4” 15 1/2” 21” oak plywoodB 4 1/4” 3/4” 15 1/2” oak

C 4 1/4” 3/4” 21 1/2” oak D 1 3/4” 15 1/2” 18” oak plywoodE 2 1/4” 3/4” 18” oak F 1 3/4” 3 1/4” 18” oak G 1 3/4” 2” 18” oak H 1 3/4” 4” 18” pineI 1 1/8” 18 1/2” 17 1/4” masoniteJ 4 3/4” 2” 18” pineK 4 3/4” 2” 11 1/8” pineL 6 1/2” 4 3/8” 14 7/8” mahogany plywoodM 6 1/2” 3 7/8” 16” mahogany plywoodN 3 1/8” 14 7/8” 16 1/2” masoniteO 3 3/4” 4” 17 7/8” oak P 3 3/4” 1 1/2” 17 7/8” oak “J” molding



1/8” MasoniteCutting Layouts

1/2” PlywoodCutting Layouts

3/4” PlywoodCutting Layouts

ANightstand

ANightstand

ADresser

IDresser

NDresser

NDresser

NDresser

NDresser

NDresser

NDresser

NDresser

NDresser

IDresser

ADresser

DDresser

AChest

AChest

IChest

NChest

NChest

NChest

NChest

M Chest L Chest

L Chest

L Chest

L Chest

L Chest

L Chest

L Chest

L Chest

M Dresser

M Dresser

M Dresser

M Dresser

M Dresser

MDresser

M Dresser

M Dresser

M Dresser L Nightstand

L Nightstand

L Nightstand

L Nightstand

L Nightstand

L Nightstand

M Nightstand M Nightstand M Nightstand M Nightstand M Nightstand

M Nightstand

M Dresser

M Dresser

M Dresser

M Dresser

MDresser

M Dresser

M Dresser

L Dresser

L Dresser

L Dresser

L Dresser

L Dresser

L Dresser

L Dresser

L Dresser

L Dresser

L Dresser

L Dresser

L Dresser

L Dresser

L Dresser

L Dresser

L Dresser

M Chest

M Chest

M Chest

M Chest

MChest

M Chest

M Chest

DChest

DNightstand

NNightstand

INightstand

NNightstand

NNightstand



Pictorial

(Dresser)

Section A-A

D

EB

A

A

A

C

FE E

D

J J

F

G

H

G

Q

R

H

J

K

I

6 13/16”

13 5/8”

20 7/1

K

I



Section B-B

E E

D

J J

F

G

H

6 13/16”

13 5/8”

20 7/16

K

I

Pictorial

(Chest of Drawers)

D

EB

A

B

B

C

F

G

HJ

K

I

Section C-C

E E

DJ J

F

G

H

5 9/16”

11 1/8”

K

I

D

EB

A

C

C

CF

G

H

J

K

IPictorial

(Nightstand)





Figure 1Boards J and K

Figure 2Boards L and M

1. Attach trim boards (B), (C) and (E) to edges of sides (A) and top (D) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Attach trim board (R)

to front edge of center divider (Q) using glue and 1 1/4 ” finish nails. Refer to Pictorials and Sectional Drawings.

2. Attach side subassemblies (A, B, C) to top subassembly (D, E) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Attach center divider sub-

assembly (Q, R) to top subassembly (D, E) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Pictorials and Sectional Drawings.

3. Assemble bottom front frame boards (F) and (G) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Pictorials and Sectional Drawings

4. Attach bottom front frame subassembly (F, G) and bottom back frame board (H) between side assemblies (A, B, C) using glue

and 1 1/4” finish nails. For the dresser only, attach bottom front frame subassemblies (F, G) and bottom back frame boards (H)

between side assemblies (A, B, C) and center divider subassembly (Q, R) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Pictorials

and Sectional Drawings.

5. Route a 3/8” wide by 1/8” deep rabbet around the inside back edges of cabinet for back (I). Refer to Pictorials and Sectional

Drawings.

6. Assemble support frames (J, K) using glue and 3/8” dowels. Refer to Figure 1, Pictorials and

Sectional Drawings.

8. Route a 1/8” wide by 1/4” deep dado on the inside of boards (L). Refer to Figures

2 and 4.

7. Attach support frames (J, K) to cabinet using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Check for squareness. Refer to Pictorials and Sectional

Drawings.

J

LN

K

1/4”

1/4”





11. Assemble drawer boxes (L, M, N) usi

glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Check f

squareness. Attach drawer fronts (O,

from inside using two 1” flathead woo

screws. Bottom edge of drawer fro

should be flush with bottom edges boards (L). Refer to Figure 4.

12. Attach drawer guides to cabinet and drawer boxes. Refer to manufacturer’s instructions.

13. Attach back (I) to cabinet using 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to Pictorials and Sectional Drawings.

10. Assemble drawer fronts (O, P) using glue. Refer to Figure 3.

M

N

P

OM

L

L

Figure 4Drawer Contsruction

Figure 3Drawer Front Contsruction

OO

P

Optional do-it-yourselfpull molding. Pre-drilland assemble with 1/2”brads.





14. Sand and apply finish to cabinet and drawer fronts.




Tiered PlanterPlan No. 562Copyright U-Build, Inc., 2000.


NOTES1. Check materials before beginning work.


equipment.


4. Cut pieces to size following the Cutting Schedule.

Assemble using galvanized nails according to diagrams

at right.

This tiered planter is great for colorful perennials or trailing plants like strawberries. Made from redwood, cedar

or pine, the project is simple and inexpensive to build. It calls for standard lumber, galvanized nails, sandpaper and

sealer. Construction is a simple matter of cutting the pieces to size and assembling with galvanized nails. To finish,

sand and apply a coat of sealer or paint.

The tiered planter is about 30 inches square by 14 inches tall.

Bill of Materials*


32 linear feet 2” x 6” redwood, cedar, pine A, B, C, D, E

5 linear feet 2” x 4” redwood, cedar, pine F

1 box #10 galvanized nails

1 quart suitable finish

*Dimensions given are for standard lumber call-outs

Cutting Schedule*


A 4 1 1/2” 5 1/2” 18” redwood, cedar, pine

B 4 1 1/2” 5 1/2” 15” redwood, cedar, pine

C 2 1 1/2” 5 1/2” 27 1/2” redwood, cedar, pine

D 2 1 1/2” 5 1/2” 24 1/2” redwood, cedar, pine

E 5 1 1/2” 5 1/2” 27 1/2” redwood, cedar, pine

F 2 1 1/2” 3 1/2” 27 1/2” redwood, cedar, pine

*Dimensions given are actual

A

AA

A

A

E

E

E

E

E

E

E

E

E

F

F

F

F

C

C

D D

D

B

B

B

B



U-BILD

Two-Door Ice Box



Bill of Material


10 3/4” x 6” x 96”* oak


60 3/8” x 2” dowels



1 small can oil or stain

6 brass ice box hinges

2 brass ice box handles

1 brass top lid handle

*approximately 40 board feet


beginning work.

2. Read manufacturer’s instructions before operat-

ing equipment.

3. Oak is preferred for this project.

4. Edge-gluing is required to achieve the necessary

width of boards F, H, N, X, AA and EE.

5. When using finish nails on oak, drill pilot holesto avoid splitting.


Although refrigerators long ago rendered them obsolete, antique oak ice boxes rema

popular with collectors, even though they’re expensive and hard to find.

This do-it-yourself version is neither: it’s both inexpensive and easy to build. A

authentic reproduction of an original, the project is especially popular when used as

bar, but it has many other uses. The top opens up to reveal a convenient storage are

and the lower cabinet features two compartments perfect for glassware and other fra

ile items.

The ice box measures 38 inches high by 24 inches wide by 16 inches deep.


A 2 3/4” 3” 35 1/4” oak

B 2 3/4” 2 1/4” 35 1/4” oak

C 2 3/4” 3” 10” oak

D 2 3/4” 2” 10” oak

E 2 3/4”

4”

10”

oak F 2 3/4” 10” 11 1/4” oak

G 2 1/8” 10 1/2” 11 3/4” oak plywood

H 2 3/4” 10” 15” oak

I 2 1/8” 10 1/2” 15 1/2” oak plywood

J 2 3/4” 3” 35 1/4” oak

K 1 3/4” 3” 18” oak

L 1 3/4” 2” 18” oak

M 1 3/4” 4” 18” oak

N 3 3/4” 15 1/8” 22 1/2” oak

O 1 3/4” 2 1/4” 22 1/2” oak

P 1 3/4” 2” 24” oak


Q 2 3/4” 4” 16 3/4” oak

R 1 3/4” 4” 25 1/2” oak

S 1 1/8” 23 1/4” 37 1/4” oak plywood

T 2 3/4” 2” 12 3/4” oak

U 2 3/4”

2”

25 1/2”

oak V 2 3/8” 3/4” 16 3/8” oak

W 1 3/8” 3/4” 24 3/4” oak

X 1 3/4” 13 3/8” 22 1/8” oak

Y 2 3/4” 2” 14 5/8” oak

Z 2 3/4” 2” 11 7/8” oak

AA 1 3/4” 7 7/8” 14 5/8” oak

BB 1 1/8” 8 3/8” 15 1/8” oak plywood

CC 2 3/4” 2” 14 5/8” oak

DD 2 3/4” 2” 15 5/8” oak

EE 1 3/4” 11 5/8” 14 5/8” oak

FF 1 1/8” 12 1/8” 15 1/8” oak plywood

Cutting Schedule



IsometricNote that Parts G, P and BB

do not appear on this drawing.

X

A

C

C

B

BA

U

S

C

A

B

J

J

F

D

H

I

E

Q

R

M

N

Q

U

W

N

NZ

Y

Y

L

Z

AA

K

O

T

T

V

45 DEGREE

MITER CUT. Lower Door

DD DD

CC

EE

FF

CC



Section A-A Section B-B

Section C-C

X X

N

N

N

P

R

M

L

Y

Y

AA

CC

CC

EE

U

O K

W

UT

C

V

N

F

G

D

H

N

FA B

J

Z

E

Q

N

BB

FF

I

S

S G



Front

Back

Raised center panel

F, H, AA, EE(See Figure 2)

Typical location of dowelsin parts A, B, C, D, E, J, K,

L, M,T, U,Y, Z, CC and DD

1/4” wide by 1/8” deeprabbet

Round-over this edge

of doors

Run a 3/8”

x 3/8” rab-

bet aroundthis edge

of doors

1/8” plywood panel

Detail 1Door & Side Panel Construction

Figure 1End View of Top Lid X

Showing Annular Rings Reversed

Figure 2

F

A S

G

Figure 3

Optional Decorative Cutsfor Raised Center Panels



3. Mark location for dowels in pieces A, B, C, D, E, J, K, L, M, T, U, Y, Z, CC and DD and drill 3/8” holes for dowels. Refer to

Detail 1.

1. Construct top lid X using three pieces of lumber, reversing direction of the grain and gluing and clamping (this will minimize

warping). See Figure 1. Allow glue-up to dry thoroughly.

2. Round-over all four top edges and run a 3/8” x 3/8” rabbet around all four bottom edges of board X. See Sections A-A and B-B.

4. Assemble and clamp face frame, side frames and door frames using 3/8” dowels and wood glue. Check for squareness. Refer

to Isometric.

5. Rout a 1/4” wide by 1/8” deep rabbet around the inside edges of the openings in side panels and door frames to accommodate

1/8” plywood. See Sections A-A, B-B and C-C and Detail 1.

7. Glue 1/8” plywood panels to inside side and door frames (do not use nails). See Detail 1.

8. Using your router, create raised center panels F, H, AA and EE. See Figure 3.

6. Cut a 1/8” deep by 3/8” wide rabbet inside back edge of side panel frames. See Figure 2.



10. Nail and glue side panels to shelves N (see Note 5). Refer to Sections A-A and B-B for position. Check for squareness.

11. Attach face frame J, K, L and M to cabinet using 1 1/4” finish nails and glue. Refer to Isometric.

12. Round-over top edges of base boards Q and R (see Section A-A and B-B). Attach boards Q and R to cabinet using 1 1/4” fin-

ish nails and glue. Refer to Isometric and Sections A-A and B-B.

9. Glue raised center panels to 1/8” plywood inserts (do not use nails). See Isometric, Sections A-A and B-B and Detail 1.

13. Attach boards O and P to side frames using 1 1/4” finish nails and glue. Refer to Section B-B.

14. Round-over bottom edges of boards V and W. Align top frame T and U and molding V and W and attach using 1 1/4” finish

nails and glue. Refer to Isometric and Sections A-A and B-B.

15. Nail plywood S to back of unit. Refer to Sections B-B and C-C.

16. Round-over all four edges of boards Y, Z, CC and DD on the outside of the doors. Run a 3/8” x 3/8” rabbet around all four edges of

boards Y, Z, CC and DD on the inside of the doors so that doors sit 3/8” into frames. Refer to Sections A-A and B-B and Detail 1.

17. Sand and stain the project.

18. Attach top lid and doors using brass ice box hardware.



Wall UnitPlan No. 648Copyright U-Build, Inc., 2003.


These modular wall units are an ideal way to make

the most of valuable wall space. Any number of the

two units may be combined to take advantage of any

floor plan.

Both units measure 78 inches tall by 16 inches

deep. The unit on the left measures 30 inches wide,and the unit on the right measures 36 inches wide.



3. We used cedar for this project, but almost any lumber (such as oak, pine or poplar) will work equally well.

Illustration 1

Typical Wall Unit System

The strength of this project lies in its versatil-

ity, as any number of units may be combined

to effectively utilize any space. The system

pictured at left, which consists of two 36” units

(one with a cabinet and one with shelves only)

and one 30” unit with a desk, is just one possi-

ble combination out of hundreds. Use the

individual materials lists and cutting schedules

to create the modular components that work

best for you.



30” Unit(Board G requires edge-gluing to achieve width)


A 4 3/4” 3 3/4” 78” lumber of choice

B 4 3/4” 3 3/8” 78” lumber of choice


D 2 3/4” 4” 28 1/2” lumber of choice

E 2 3/4” 3” 13” lumber of choice


G 3/4” 14 1/4” 28 1/4” lumber of choice

36” Unit(Board G requires edge-gluing to achieve width)


A 4 3/4” 3 3/4” 78” lumber of choice

B 4 3/4” 3 3/8” 78” lumber of choice


D 2 3/4” 4” 34 1/2” lumber of choice

E 2 3/4” 3” 13” lumber of choice


G 3/4” 14 1/4” 34 1/4” lumber of choice

Desk(Boards A, B, C and F require edge-gluing to achieve width)





D 1 1/4” 17” 27 1/2” plywood

E 2 3/4” 2 7/8” 17 3/4” lumber of choice

F 2 3/4” 17” 22 3/8” lumber of choice

G 2 3/4” 3/4” 3” lumber of choice

Cabinet(Boards A, B, C and F require edge-gluing to achieve width)





D 1 1/4” 23 1/4” 33 1/2” plywood

E 2 3/4” 2 7/8” 24” lumber of choice

F 2 3/4” 14 3/16”* 24” lumber of choice

G 2 3/4” 3/4” 3” lumber of choice*Dimension given is slightly oversize. Trim doors to fit.

Cutting Schedule

30” Unit


5 3/4” x 8” x 7’ lumber of choice

2 per shelf 3/4” x 8” x 30” lumber of choice

32 1 1/4” flat head wood screws1 box 1 1/4” finish nails

1 bottle wood glue

4 5/8” x 3/16” x 72” steel shelf standards

4 per shelf 5/8” steel bracket clips

Desk




1 1/4” x 20” x 30” plywood

2 1 1/2” butt hinges

30” chain

2 screw eyes


1 bottle wood glue

Cabinet



2 3/4” x 8” x 10’ lumber of choice1 1/4” x 24” x 36” plywood

4 1 1/2” butt hinges


1 bottle wood glue

36” Unit




2 per shelf 3/4” x 8” x 36” lumber of choice32 1 1/4” flat head wood screws


1 bottle wood glue

4 5/8” x 3/16” x 72” steel shelf standards

4 per shelf 5/8” steel bracket clips

Bill of Material



C

B

B

B

B

A

A

A

A

D

D

DF

B

E C

B A A

F

F

C

E

E Figure 1Basic Frame Construction

(30” and 36” widths)

78”

16” See Figure 4

See Figure 5



A

D

D

C

C

E

E

F

FC F E

C

C

D

F

A

A

E

F

A

B

G

G

C

C

E

C

G

G

A

B

B

E

E

B

Figure 2

Desk Construction(for 30” unit)

Figure 3

Cabinet Construction(for 36” unit)

E

28 1/4”

17 3/4”

Cut mortises to accommodatebutt hinges.

Once hinges are installed,

position desk lid as pic-tured, attach screw eyesand adjust length of chain.

24

14 1/8” 14 1/4”

14 1/4”

3”

AD

D

8”

34 1/4”

2 3/8”

17 1/8”

Cut mortises to accommodatebutt hinges.

Left door not pictured.





Note: Steps 1 though 6 apply to the basic frame unit only.

1. Cut 3/8” deep by 3/4” wide rabbets in frame boards (A).


2. Cut 1/4” deep by 5/8” wide dados along the entire length

of frame boards (B) to accommodate shelf standards.


3. Using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails, attach boards (A) to

boards (B) to form upright corners. Refer to Figures 1

and 4.

4. Cut optional 1” radius on top outside corners of subassemblies

(A, B) if desired. Refer to Figure 5.

5. Cut optional 1/4” radius on outside corners of subassemblies

(A, B) if desired. Refer to Figure 4.

6. Attach top and bottom cross braces (C) and (D) to corner sub-

assemblies (A,B) using glue and 1 1/4” finish nails. Refer to

Figures 1, 4 and 5.

Figure 4

Frame Construction Detail, Top View

A

C

E

B

2”

Shelf

Standard

Figure 5Frame Construction Detail, Front View

A

C

E

R 1”

R 1/4” R 1/4”

R 1/4”





Note: Steps 7 though 13 apply to the desk & cabinet only.

7. Cut 3/8” deep by 3/4” wide rabbets in both ends of top board (A) and and one end of side boards (C). Refer to Figures 2 and 3

8. Attach top board (A) to side boards (C) using glue and 1” finish nails. Refer to Figures 2 and 3.

9. Attach bottom board (B) to subassembly (A, C) using glue and 1” finish nails. Refer to Figures 2 and 3.

10. Cut a 1/4” deep by 3/8” wide rabbet around inside back edge of subassembly (A, B, C). Refer to Figures 2 and 3.

11. Attach back (D) to subassembly (A, B, C) using glue and 1” finish nails. Refer to Figures 2 and 3.

12. Attach face frames (E) to subassembly (A, B, C, D) using glue and 1” finish nails. Refer to Figures 2 and 3.

13. Install desk lid (F) or cabinet doors (F). Refer to Figure 2 or 3.

14. Place completed desk or cabinet (if desired) between front and back frame subassemblies (A, B, C, D). Refer to Illustration 1

15. Connect front and back frame subassemblies (A, B, C, D) with side braces (E) and (F) using two 1 1/4” flat head wood screws

at each joint. Refer to Figures 1 and 4.

16. Determine desired position of desk or cabinet (refer to illustration 1), mount shelf bracket clips in shelf standards and place

unit(s) in position. Height of desk or cabinet may be adjusted by moving shelf bracket clips up or down.

17. Mount bracket clips in desired position and install shelves (G). Shelves may be adjusted by moving shelf bracket clips up or

down.

18. Apply desired finish.



Woodworking

BenchPlan No. 866Copyright U-Build, Inc., 1998.


Bill of Material


1 1 1/2” x 5 1/2” x 6’ Douglas Fir A, K2 1 1/2” x 5 1/2” x 10’ Douglas Fir A

7 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 8’ Douglas Fir B, C, D, E,

F, G, H, I

1 1/2” x 24” x 6’ Plywood

16 3/8” x 2” Dowel Pins

22 #10 x 1 1/2” Flat head Phillips Wood Screws

73 #10 x 1 1/2” Flat head Phillips Wood Screws

8 5/16” x 3 1/2” Carriage Bolts, Washers, Nuts

1 small bottle Wood Glue

1 quart Finish

Cutting Schedule


A 5 1 1/2” 5 1/4” 60” Douglas FiB 2 1 1/2” 3 1/2” 26 1/4” Douglas Fi

C 2 1 1/2” 3 1/2” 53” Douglas Fi

D 1 1 1/2” 3 1/2” 19 1/4” Douglas Fi

E 4 1 1/2” 3 1/2” 34 1/2” Douglas Fi

F 2 1 1/2” 3 1/2” 26 1/4” Douglas Fi

G 2 1 1/2” 3 1/2” 24” Douglas Fi

H 3 1 1/2” 3 1/2” 19 1/4” Douglas Fi

I 2 1 1/2” 3 1/2” 53” Douglas Fi

J 1 1/2” 22 1/4” 50” Plywood

K 1 1 1/2” 5 1/2” 10” Douglas Fi

Any experienced woodworker can attest to the fact that a good workbench is one of the keys to success for any project.

More than a simple work surface, a well-made woodworking bench incorporates precise angles and a level top that serve

as gauges for other projects.This do-it-yourself version features a heavy laminated top, a convenient storage bin underneath and a design that allows

for a precision woodworking vise and bench stop.

The completed bench measures about 36 inches tall by 26 inches wide by 60 inches long, and is designed to fit a vise

with a 4- by 7-inch jaw.

NOTES

1. Select quality dry lumber to build your workbench. Lumber that has a high moisture content will

have a tendency to shrink and warp.

2. Board K is used to mount your bench vise. I chose to mount the vise on the right front corner of

the bench. You may choose a different location that may be more convenient or comfortable for

yourself.

3. I chose a fast-drying polyurethane clear satin finish. Give your project at least two coats. For a

higher quality finished project, apply finish before final assembly.

4. Take care in the clamping process for the table top. Lumber must be square and flat to ensure a

quality working surface when your project is finished.





F

F

E

E

C

H

H

I

I

H

J

A

G

B

E

Isometric(Boards D and K not shown)



60

26 1/4

12

5 1/4

17

36

AAD

G G

I

J

F

E E

F

B C B B

G

H

E

1 TYP.

E

F

A

A

C

C

E E

EE

B

B

D

K

1 1/2

6 1/8 TYP.

8 1/2 TYP.

1 3/4

6

1 TYP.

1 TYP.

Figure 2Figure 1

Figure 3(Top View of Table)

Figure 3(Bottom View of Table)



2. Attach boards B, C and D to underside of bench top with #10 x 2 1/2” wood screws (see Figure 4). Notch one of the C boards for

bench vise at this time (optional).

3. Assemble legs from boards E and F with 5/16” x 2” carriage bolts (see Figures 5 and 6). Attach leg assemblies to boards B using

#10 x 2 1/2” wood screws.

4. Bolt boards H to boards E (see Figure 2). Check assemblies for squareness.

5. Drill and attach diagonal braces G to boards C and E with #10 x 2 1/2” wood screws (see Figure 7). Squareness is a must.



1. Resaw 2 x 6 lumber to eliminate the radius on the edges. Using at least four equally spaced dowel pins between each board, glue

and clamp lumber to form benchtop (see Figure 3). Check for flatness.

1 3/4

1 3/4

1 3/4

3/4

1

13 3/4

3/8 DIA.

3/16 DIA.5 1/4

Figure 5

(Board E)

Figure 6

(Board F)

3/8 DIA.

45o

2 15/16

1

3/4

3/16 DIA.

Figure 7(Board G)



6. Use #10 x 2 1/2” wood screws to attach I to H and J to H and I (see Figures 8, 9 and 10).



3/8 DIA.

1 3/4

2 1/4

3/4

26 1/2

conjunto de planos constructivos de muebles y otros objetos

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