commercial door & docks · door wont lock i recently started to remake the interior in my 72...

Forum CARS 1st Generation Z (S30) Interior (S30) Door wont lock

Thread: Door wont lock

Direct Sponsor

Log OutSettingsMy ProfileNotificationsWelcome, SteveJ

Home What's New? Gallery Blogs Garage Vendors Clubs Media Store Classifieds

Forum Home New Posts Private Messages FAQ Calendar Community Forum Actions Quick Links Advanced Search

Commercial Door & Docks

www.SouthernDockProducts.com

25 yrs in Metro & 56 Unit Fleet Sales,24/7 Service, OEM Parts

Results 1 to 25 of 27 of 2 1 2 Last

Like Be the first of your friends to like this.

Thread Tools Search Thread Rate This Thread Display

03-17-2010

Door wont lock

I recently started to remake the interior in my 72 and for some

reason my doors wont lock. When i slam the door shut ( this is inboth doors) and try to lock it (window open) pressing plug, it wont

go down. I tried to adjust strikers but it just messed my dooralignment. I dont have dovetails

I tried also moving that round thing on the door (forgive my

idiocy) in to different positions but it didnt make any difference.

Halp!

#1

Join Date:

Location:

Posts:

Downloads:

Uploads:

Sep 2009

Finland

674

0

0

Koalia

Registered User

-72 240Z "Goldie"

Forum

Door wont lock http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread37755.html

1 of 16 1/12/2013 7:26 PM

Reply Reply With QuoteBlog this Post

03-17-2010

Does the lock button function with the door open ?

#2

Join Date:

Location:

Age:

Posts:

Downloads:

Uploads:

Nov 2004

Victoria B.C. Canada

46

463

0

0

Unkle

Registered User


03-17-2010

My guess is that the lock/latch is not rotating enough after coming

in contact with the striker. This is frequently evident by the door

wiggling, yet not coming open. Unless the lock rotates fully, youcannot operate the push button locks.

This can be verified by manually roating the lock with the door

open. You will need to rotate it 90 degrees if I recall correctly. Youcan tell by doing it slowly and listening for two clicks. At that point,

you should be able to lock the door. Be sure to unlock the door and

lift the door handle to rotate the lock into the open position before

attempting to close the door.

If the manual technique works, the issue is with the alignment

and/or wear of the striker on the door. Some people have resolvedthe wear issue by grinding a small amount of material away from

the striker, allowing the lock to rotate fully. I believe there is a

thread here that links to a Hybridz thread describing how to do

this.

Steve

#3

Join Date:

Location:

Age:

Posts:

Downloads:

Uploads:

Dec 2003

Gainesville, GA

46

2,350

1

0

SteveJ

Got new shoes for the 240

Originally Posted by Koalia

I recently started to remake the interior in my 72 and for somereason my doors wont lock. When i slam the door shut ( this isin both doors) and try to lock it (window open) pressing plug,it wont go down. I tried to adjust strikers but it just messedmy door alignment. I dont have dovetails

I tried also moving that round thing on the door (forgive myidiocy) in to different positions but it didnt make anydifference.

Halp!

73 240Z74 260Z


2 of 16 1/12/2013 7:26 PM

Blue's collection of tech tips - http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/XenonS30 - the cheap source for FSMs - http://www.XenonS30.comGeorgia Z Club - http://www.georgiazclub.comFiddling with Z Cars - http://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com (I plan to addZ car tips & tricks and pictures of my car-loving life.)


03-17-2010

Too many times to count, the problem is NOT that the catch on the

door jamb is at fault, but rather that the LATCH on the door has

lost a piece.

It's often missing, so much so that some people believe it doesn't

exist... but it IS supposed to be there. That's the rubber "wrap"

around the tab extending from the rotating center portion. If youlook closely, you'll see that it IS a rubber sleeve if you will, if you

can't find it... it's more than likely missing.

That piece of rubber acts not only to quiet the door and keep itfrom rattling once closed, but it also "thickens" the arm tab so thatit will rotate the cam far enough to get to the second latching

point.

There is a "non-fsm" method to repair this, but that may becontroversial. This method of grinding material off the catch is

probably even more non-fsm AND dangerous, surprisingly it's notbeing berated.

Post what you find.E

#4

Join Date:

Location:

Age:

Posts:

Downloads:

Uploads:

Dec 2001

Vancouver, WA

56

4,871

0

0

EScanlon

Super Moderator


03-17-2010

E, do you have any pictures of the part that is commonly missing?

#5

Join Date:

Location:

Age:

Posts:

Downloads:

Uploads:

Dec 2003

Gainesville, GA

46

2,350

1

0

SteveJ


73 240Z74 260Z

Blue's collection of tech tips - http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/XenonS30 - the cheap source for FSMs - http://www.XenonS30.comGeorgia Z Club - http://www.georgiazclub.comFiddling with Z Cars - http://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com (I plan to add


3 of 16 1/12/2013 7:26 PM

Z car tips & tricks and pictures of my car-loving life.)


03-17-2010

I don't think so. But it's easier to describe than to get a shot of it.

If you're familiar with the felt hammers in use in a piano, think of

the felt wrapping. That's what it is, except it's made out of rubber.

Simply get a section of 1/4" ID tubing or thereabouts (I used apiece of scrap I had in the garage to fix a friends), and cut it's

length to match the width of the latch part. Coat the rubber and

latch part with a good contact cement and attach. The thickness isroughly the same.

I'll see if I can get a picture later (I just realized we actually have

sun today).E

#6

Join Date:

Location:

Age:

Posts:

Downloads:

Uploads:

Dec 2001

Vancouver, WA

56

4,871

0

0

EScanlon

Super Moderator


03-17-2010

I would appreciate that, E. I tried the grinding method and wasn't

satisfied with the results. I just paid for a new set of strikers andwould love to see if your fix would improve the door latching.

#7

Join Date:

Location:

Age:

Posts:

Downloads:

Uploads:

Dec 2003

Gainesville, GA

46

2,350

1

0

SteveJ


73 240Z74 260Z



03-18-2010

When I was having the same problems it was solved with new lubewhere metal to metal contact was made. The striker, the two

rotating lock fingers. This was after I had adjusted everything that

could be adjusted.

#8

Bonzi Lon

Registered User


4 of 16 1/12/2013 7:26 PM

Bonzi Lon

Join Date:

Location:

Age:

Posts:

Downloads:

Uploads:

Apr 2006

Kingman, Kansas

57

1,058

0

0

1973 HLS30-1685001968 SPL311-181001969 HLS30-000110 SOLD Shipped to Dubai UAECZCC#11300

Ones and Zeros

"We drive only blue cars." Dishwalla


03-18-2010

Door Latch "fingers"

Here are a couple of pictures that hopefully will explain things.

Also, here's a quick explanation of "terms", for lack of better

nomenclature.Latch = what you can see in these pictures, the rotating part of the

lock that is attached to the door.

Catch = the stamped metal piece, AKA "striker". Seen in the doorstriker set pic.Lobe = the finger/arm that engages the catch.

dovetail = the piece seen below the latch.

#31 shows the rubber surrounding the lobe/arm of the latch that isthe first one to contact the catch on the door jamb. They're viewed

from below. This is the rubber that commonly gets lost.

#32 shows the latch once it has "clicked" twice, i.e. fully closed.

#33 shows the latch completely open.

The distance between the two "notches" on the catch (the one onthe door jamb) co-incide with the rotating distance of the two

finger lobes on the latch.

When you close the door, the rubber coated latch strikes first

initiating the rotation of the latch and allowing the second lobe to

process into the second notch on the catch.

If the rubber coating is gone from the first lobe, the distance

between the lobes is now lengthened, which causes the second

lobe to impact deeper into the catch than designed and as a result,will not rotate far enough to allow the latch to reach the second

"click" or fully latched position.

#9

Join Date:

Location:

Age:

Posts:

Downloads:

Uploads:

Dec 2001

Vancouver, WA

56

4,871

0

0

EScanlon

Super Moderator


5 of 16 1/12/2013 7:26 PM

I erred in saying that the rubber surround on the first lobe

prevents rattling, but it is important to have it as it is critical to the

mechanism.

Gouging out the second notch on the catch on the side closest to

the passenger cabin is the "repair" that's been suggested as a fix.

The dovetail that was mentioned as missing, inserts into thespring/lever visible in the picture of the blue car. It's function is to

push on the door UP and OUT as well as dampen the door "slam".

Hope this makes sense.

E

Attached Thumbnails


03-18-2010

Thanks for the pictures, E. They help a lot.

#10

Join Date:

Location:

Dec 2003

Gainesville, GA

SteveJ



6 of 16 1/12/2013 7:26 PM

Age:

Posts:

Downloads:

Uploads:

46

2,350

1

0

73 240Z74 260Z



03-19-2010

Thank you Escanlon and all others! Very constructive thread. Imanaged to get my driver side door working by adjusting striker a

bit higher. But the passenger side door wont work even i rotate

latch. 2 clicks and the plug wont still go down. Is there somethingwrong in the mechanism or what?

I already have window on place at the passenger side..hope i wonthave to take it off.. :/

#11

Join Date:

Location:

Posts:

Downloads:

Uploads:

Sep 2009

Finland

674

0

0

Koalia

Registered User

-72 240Z "Goldie"


03-19-2010

Rotate the Latch/Lobe cam with the door open, you should be able

to get the complete 2 clicks.

Make sure the outside key-lock is in the "neutral", i.e. center/

straight up/down position.

Try pushing the Lock Knob down.

If it still will NOT go down, you need to remove the door panel to

get access to the lock mechanism.

With a flashlight shining into the door, and specifically where the

#12

Join Date:

Location:

Age:

Posts:

Downloads:

Uploads:

Dec 2001

Vancouver, WA

56

4,871

0

0

EScanlon

Super Moderator


7 of 16 1/12/2013 7:26 PM

Lock Rod connects to the latch mechanism, press down on the rod

and observe what it does / does not do.

Possible problem: The outside door handle has an adjustable

length rod. If that rod is extended past a given point, it will

actually BLOCK the locking mechanism from actuating.

Post what you find/adjust.E


03-29-2010

Alrighty, problem seems not to be in adjustable pushrod. It's

actually too shortly adjusted atm.

In drivers side door there's 2 clicks but in pass side there is one

click and one bump. So it sounds different too..

#13

Join Date:

Location:

Posts:

Downloads:

Uploads:

Sep 2009

Finland

674

0

0

Koalia

Registered User

-72 240Z "Goldie"


03-29-2010

Check your door striker screws - if they are not the correct lenght

the screw ends will go into the door too far and will block the lock

linkage from traveling to lock the door - the screws must be the

correct lenght to lock your door.

#14

Join Date:

Location:

Age:

Posts:

Downloads:

Uploads:

Mar 2007

Western NorthCarolina

52

1,154

0

0

Travel'n Man

Registered User

Garage


8 of 16 1/12/2013 7:26 PM

Life's a journey; enjoy the ride!

MitchellL28 - N42 Block w/Flat tops - N42 Rebello Head & Cam - Triple 40 PHHMikuni's - Headers - R/T MountR180 3.9 Diff - ZX 5 Speed

1972 Datsun 240zHLS30-75040


03-30-2010

Hi, screws are exact the same in both sides, 10mm bolt/screwswith cross head

#15

Join Date:

Location:

Posts:

Downloads:

Uploads:

Sep 2009

Finland

674

0

0

Koalia

Registered User

-72 240Z "Goldie"


04-09-2010

Still no improvement on pass side door. More problems in drivers

side. I noticed that the pushrod (that connects lock cylinder to the

rest) is not in the right place. Should that lever be in that hole? I

tried to move it back to place but failed..

#16

Koalia

Registered User


9 of 16 1/12/2013 7:26 PM

Attached Thumbnails

Join Date:

Location:

Posts:

Downloads:

Uploads:

Sep 2009

Finland

674

0

0

-72 240Z "Goldie"


04-09-2010

Yes, it needs to be in that hole. In a worst case scenario, you couldtry getting another door mechanism from Zbarn. I just bought onefrom Roger a couple of weeks ago.

#17

Join Date:

Location:

Age:

Posts:

Downloads:

Uploads:

Dec 2003

Gainesville, GA

46

2,350

1

0

SteveJ


73 240Z74 260Z



04-09-2010 #18

EVILC


10 of 16 1/12/2013 7:26 PM

I have a similar problem. I can push the rod down once my doors

are closed (windows down of course) and I can use the key to open

the doors but can't use it to lock the doors. I removed both doorlock boxes and notice that some of the plastic around some of the

points were worn or missing. Later this year I will pull the door

apart to change them out and install power locks.

Be sure to check that your plastic joints are not worn....this is thearea that your hooks go into. Like stated, easier to just get a

"newer" set. GL

Join Date:

Location:

Age:

Posts:

Downloads:

Uploads:

Apr 2007

New York

28

218

0

0

Registered User

1970 240z #1905 - L30ET Resto-Mod Project

1971 240z- LS1/T56

New club forming in the Northeast. www.NYZCC.org NY,NJ,CT,PA. PM forinfo.


04-11-2010

Yeah, sadly atm i cannot afford newer set. Just got to fix those oldones somehow..

#19

Join Date:

Location:

Posts:

Downloads:

Uploads:

Sep 2009

Finland

674

0

0

Koalia

Registered User

-72 240Z "Goldie"


04-11-2010 #20


11 of 16 1/12/2013 7:26 PM

Roger shipped one to me for $44. While I know shipping would behigher, and possibly duties could be added, too, I guess the best

question to ask is this. How much can you afford?

Join Date:

Location:

Age:

Posts:

Downloads:

Uploads:

Dec 2003

Gainesville, GA

46

2,350

1

0

SteveJ


73 240Z74 260Z



04-11-2010

Something to try... Did you remove / reinstall the assembly? If so,here's what fixed the same problem for me.

I found that the position of the interior door latch, (that handlethat opens the door), can affect the operation of the door locks. Ifyou loosen the screws holding this assembly, (inside botoom ofdoor), it's position can be adjusted. If the assembly is too far

forward, on the attached rod can't move back far enough andprevents the door lock from operating.

When I moved my latch handle assembly back about 5/16",

everything worked fine.

#21

Join Date:

Location:

Age:

Posts:

Downloads:

Uploads:

Nov 2007

SF Bay Area

59

1,523

0

0

Oiluj

Registered User

Garage

Julio1972 240Z (in-progress, 95% complete)CZC# 15388


04-11-2010 #22


12 of 16 1/12/2013 7:26 PM

Well, I bought the tubing, so I could do E's fix. However, beforethat I decided to try something that Roger Schmidt from ZBarn

suggested to me. I took out the passenger side mechanism and

cleaned it with brake cleaner. I used brake cleaner because it is

pressurized in the can, and it evaporates quickly. After getting rid

of the grease and grime from 30+ years, I sprayed all movingparts with white grease, again from a pressurized can. (Note -

Don't use WD-40 for this. It's NOT a lubricant.) I re-installed, andit closes great. I can get it to close with a gentle push instead of a

slam. It might be something you can try.

Join Date:

Location:

Age:

Posts:

Downloads:

Uploads:

Dec 2003

Gainesville, GA

46

2,350

1

0

SteveJ


73 240Z74 260Z



04-12-2010

I got that lever on place on drivers side door. Well after that idiscovered next problem. This part (on pic) is worn out and it wontmove pushrod enough to lock the door from outside.

Also, im afraid to take out the passenger side window for lock

removal, it fits so good now

Attached Thumbnails

#23

Join Date:

Location:

Posts:

Downloads:

Uploads:

Sep 2009

Finland

674

0

0

Koalia

Registered User

-72 240Z "Goldie"


13 of 16 1/12/2013 7:26 PM


04-12-2010

That piece does not look worn.

Are you sure it isn't the end of the lock cylinder that it attaches to

that is the worn item?

The lock cylinder metal is a "pot" metal and not as strong as thestamped steel piece in your picture, and it's more commonly the

one that gets worn down.

FWIWE

#24

Join Date:

Location:

Age:

Posts:

Downloads:

Uploads:

Dec 2001

Vancouver, WA

56

4,871

0

0

EScanlon

Super Moderator


10-13-2011

There are 2 long and 3 short counter-sunk screws that hold the

dovetail and the latch mechanisim in the door... of the 3 screws

that hold the mechanism, the screw closest to the car must beshort or the locking mechanism will hang up on it... I found out....

slightly longer than stock ss screw caused me grief.

#25

Join Date:

Location:

Posts:

Downloads:

Uploads:

Jan 2005

NS

2,415

0

0

Blue

Nova Scotia,Canada,Earth

Garage

Last edited by Blue; 10-13-2011 at 11:52 PM.

There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannotmake a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.

John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)


14 of 16 1/12/2013 7:26 PM

Quick Reply

Show your signature

Post Quick Reply Go Advanced Cancel

« Reference Cowl Drain above driver's feet Photo | Door Seal Reference Photos »

ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe

http://ZSportCanada.com


Page 1 of 2 1 2 Last

Quick Navigation Interior (S30) Top


15 of 16 1/12/2013 7:26 PM

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:21 PM.

Garage Plus, Vendor Tools vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.


16 of 16 1/12/2013 7:26 PM

commercial door & docks · door wont lock i recently started to remake the interior in my 72...

Documents