clun to llanfair waterdine serenity, conflict and inspiration › ... › brh-leaflets-v6.pdf ·...

Clun CastleClun Castle began as a motte and bailey castle built by the Norman, Robert de Say, around 1140-50. It was originally built with timber defences but these were replaced by a stone structure to create a formidable Norman fortress. The castle became the property of the Fitzalan family who endeavoured to make the village a place where Welsh and English cultures would intermingle but their effort was

short-lived. The castle was abandoned in the late 13th century and consequently fell into ruin. The remains are under the guardianship of English Heritage and are freely accessible to the public.

Offa’s DykeYou will cross the mighty earthwork, Offa’s Dyke, believed to have been built by King Offa of Mercia in the late eigth century AD. Archaeologists argue the purpose of the earthwork – was it purely delineating the extent of the Kingdom of Mercia or was it a military structure with the intention

of keeping out the Welsh? In total the monument is 80 miles long and the Offa’s Dyke Path National Trail follows most of its course.

Rivers Clun and TemeThe River Clun rises in the Clun Forest hills, near Anchor, and meanders south east to join the River Teme. The source of the Teme is in mid Wales and forms the England-Wales border for much of its length in Shropshire. These rivers support significant populations of otters. This is a conservation success story and many stretches of water throughout the county now provide homes for these elusive animals after an absence of many years.

Clun to Llanfair Waterdine Serenity, Conflict and Inspiration

Ride Route with direction numberJack Mytton WayBridlewayFootpathBywayA Road / B RoadOther road

KEY to maps Public HouseTelephoneCar ParkingVisitor Information

Cafe / ShopChurchPublic ToiletBuildings

Route 1

ShropshireRide

Described by Housman as one of the ‘quietest places under the sun’ Clun may have a sleepy façade but this belies this active little town. It’s ancient origin’s can be traced from Saxon times and the settlement has a history of growth as a prosperous market town to a decline becoming a charming backwater in the heart of the Shropshire Hills. Here traditions survive, the most notable being the annual Green Man Festival in May. This is when Frostie, Queen of Cold challenges the Green Man in the Battle of the Bridge. If the Green Man doesn’t see her off then there is no Summer in the Clun Valley.

Clun has not always been such a peaceful spot. This has been one of the most turbulent and fought over borderlands in Britain. It is Offa’s country where the Saxon ruler built his magnificent Dyke to mark the extent of the great Kingdom of Mercia. You will cross the earthwork where it is revealed at its best striding across Llanfair Hill and wonder at how this monument was achieved at a time when the only equipment available was man and shovel.

In order to quell a Welsh uprising against the Norman Conquest King William created the Marcher Lordships. These were granted to his most valued supporters and they were given virtual independence as long as they upheld and protected the Norman lands. Clun was the location chosen by the Marcher Lords to build their line of defence. The remains of this stronghold still overlook the town. Look back as you climb up out of the Clun for a glorious view of the town.

In more recent years Clun has provided inspiration for artists and writers. It is believed that Sir Walter Scott wrote ‘The Betrothed’ whilst staying at the Buffalo Inn. The playwright, John Osborne, spent many years in the parish and his final resting place is in Clun churchyard. Bruce Chatwin’s ‘On the Black Hill’ gains much of its atmosphere from the area around Clun.INFORMATION

The Sun, Clun: 01588 640305The White Horse, Clun: 01588 640305The Waterdine, Llanfair Waterdine: 01547 528214Lloyney Inn, Lloyney: 01547 528498

Crown Copyright. All rights reserved. Shropshire County Council 100019801. 2008

Start: Clun High Street • OS map 201 • Grid Ref: SO304808

1 From the High Street in Clun (B4368 towards Craven Arms) turn down the road opposite the garage which leads down to the ford through the River Clun. There is a footbridge but if the river is too high for horses there is an alternative via Bridge Street and Church Street (A488) and over the main bridge in Clun.

2 Follow Vicarage Road around to the church. Turn left onto the A488 then, after 75 metres, turn left and begin the ascent of Church Bank.

3 After about 1km take the bridleway on right through gate, by Glebe Cottage, and go straight up steep pasture field. Follow bridleway through gates to join road.

4 Cross straight over road and start descending along firstly a field edge path, then diagonally cross two fields as the bridleway drops down to an old metalled road. Turn right and follow out to the A488 by The Tyndings.

5 Carefully cross straight over road to join bridleway which runs through fields to join a stone track which leads down to a ford and footbridge crossing the River Redlake. Follow track to join road.

6 Turn right and follow road for about 1km then turn left onto another minor road at ‘Curlew Corner’.

7 At T junction go left then shortly right onto bridleway which runs uphill following a sunken lane.

8 At junction of tracks turn left and pass ruined building. Carry straight on through gate.

9 Turn right at junction of

bridleways, through gate, and

continue with field boundary on left

straight on through gates, crossing several

fields to meet Offa’s Dyke.

10 Turn left, then right, onto bridleway which runs down

a field edge, through a dingle then across a field in the same

general direction to join a stone track which is Jack Mytton Way.

11 Turn left onto track, pass farm buildings and follow farm track round to the left.

12 Join lane ahead and follow through Graig down to join another road. Turn right into Llanfair Waterdine, past the Everest Hall on your left, to the Church and ‘The Waterdine’ pub.

Finish: Llanfair Waterdine • OS map 201 • Grid Ref: SO242763

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Route 1 Clun to Llanfair Waterdine: 7 miles / 11.5 km

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The NativesThere are two native sheep breeds that have developed in the area. The Clun Forest is a highly adaptable sheep with high disease resistancy and is now reared in many countries around the world. The breed characteristics are a dark brown, speckle free face with wool on top of the head and small pricked ears. In contrast the Kerry Hill sheep are quite distinctive. The breed has panda-like markings and pricked ears. These were bred to survive the harsh hill conditions and originated around the small town of Kerry in Powys.

Red KiteYou may be lucky enough to spot the Red Kite soaring above with its distinctive chestnut red colour and forked tail. Persecution of these elegant birds in 17th and 18th centuries resulted in virtual extinction in Britain. A few pairs managed to hang on in Mid Wales and concerted efforts by landowners, rural communities and dedicated individuals and organisations have resulted in an increase of the Red Kite population.

Useful Links!At Llanfair Waterdine the Blue Remembered Hills Bridleway links with other promoted routes that enable you to explore Wales. Cross the River Teme into Powys and from Lloyney you can follow the Prince Llewellyn Ride westwards to the Ceredigion coast at Borth. Continue south to link with the Radnor Forest Ride heading for the Brecon Beacons and south Wales or link up with the Glyndwrs Way National Trail which consists of long stretches available to riders as well as walkers and takes you to Machynlleth and back to Welshpool. You need never come home!

Llanfair Waterdine to Upper DuffrynWelsh, Work and Wildlife

The key is yet to be completed: I’ll wait until all map elements are in place before I do this

Do you have INFORMATION to go here?

ShropshireRide

Route 2




The place names along the Blue Remembered Hills Bridleway now reflect the Welsh influence. We are west of Offa’s Dyke and the Norman defence line. We are close to the current border between England and Wales marked by the river Teme. The prefix of Llan meaning church or village becomes widespread. Bryn (hill) and Cwm (combe) are common place. The Bridleway climbs up out of the Teme Valley, over the watershed, and down into the Clun Valley to Upper Dyffryn (meaning ‘valley’).

This area is called the Clun Forest. There was once a large forest covering an area that stretched from Ludlow up the Clun Valley.

There are few remnants of the forest today but ancient woodland does still exist in some deep, inaccessible valleys and a fairly large area of forest sits on the English/Welsh border north of Anchor. The current landscape is one of soft undulating hills with a remoteness that takes your breath away.

The countryside here is very much a working landscape, much of it over 1,000ft. Farming in the area is predominantly concerned with stock rearing and there is very little arable land. Cattle and sheep graze contentedly but farming at this altitude can be an inhospitable occupation and it is a struggle to derive a livelihood from this beautiful countryside.

INFORMATIONThe Waterdine, Llanfair Waterdine: 01547 528214Lloyney Inn, Lloyney: 01547 528498Crown Inn, Newcastle on Clun: 01588 640271


Start: Llanfair Waterdine OS map 201 • Grid Ref: SO242763

1 From the church continue along the minor road for 1.5 km.

2 Pass Melin y Grogue on your right, cross bridge and take the next lane on the right.

3 At T-junction turn left and then almost immediately right.

4 Go straight on at New House and after crossing brook take bridleway fork on right. Follow uphill, keeping right on joining a track, and continue climbing hillside.

5 Keep fence line on left to pass through pasture fields.

6 At junction of bridleways turn left onto track which runs past woodland to Hurgin Farm.

7 At Hurgin Farm turn into the enclosure by the house then right through a gate in front of converted barn. Bear right and follow bridleway running uphill. Bear left to follow a hedgeline along the hillside then climb up through fields (can be boggy when conditions are wet). After passing a tree plantation leave track and bear right to bridlegate at top right corner of field. Go straight across field and follow bridleway out to road.

8 Turn left onto minor road.

9 Keep left at next junction and continue, ignoring a left turn, and take the next road on the right.

10 Follow road for 2km taking a right turn to reach Upper Duffryn and the B4368.

Finish: Duffryn OS map 201 Grid Ref: SO226823

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Route 2 Llanfair Waterdine to Upper Duffryn: 5.25 miles / 8.5 km

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Kerry Ridgeway The Blue Remembered Hills Bridleway follows many historic trails but the oldest of all such tracks must be the Kerry Ridgeway. Its origins are lost in the mists of time but it is certainly earlier than the Iron Age and Dark Ages earthworks that cut its line. Nearby are Bronze Age burials, stone circles and Offa’s Dyke. It has a history of use as an important drovers road in the 17th and 18th centuries. Imagine the gruelling journey for the drovers herding their stock from the depths of Wales across these exposed hill tops to the English markets.

The Ridgeway never dips below 1,000ft above sea level and follows the crest of Kerry Hill which affords remarkable views over the Welsh Marches. Only part of the route is traversed by riders on the BRH bridleway but the entire Kerry Ridgeway is worthy of an expedition of its own. Travel the whole route of 15 miles following the distinctive fox waymark from The Cider House, on the Newtown-Knighton Road to Bishop’s Castle – further details from Powys County Council.

Cantlin StoneOn Shadwell Hill you will pass by the Cantlin Stone. This commemorates the death of a travelling pedlar. A dispute broke out amongst the surrounding parishes over who should incur the cost of burying the stranger but finally Bettws y Crwyn gave him a resting place. 200 years later this act of charity paid off as, on the strength on the position of the stone, Bettws Parish gained several hundred acres of land.

Upper Duffryn to Bishop’s MoatHeather and Highlands

ShropshireRide

Route 3




Heathland once covered the Clun Forest hills but only fragments survive, the rest having been ploughed up, much of this happening as part of the WW2 war effort. The land was then reseeded to improve the grassland or planted with conifers. The Blue Remembered Hills Bridleway passes two nature reserves where the natural heathland is being preserved along with its wildlife.

The haunting call of curlew over Rhos Fiddle increases the feeling of ancient wilderness. This remnant of heathland, amongst tracts of improved grassland, is surely the most remote spot on the Bridleway. This land is now owned by the Shropshire Wildlife Trust. Native breeds are used to graze the site. You may begin to think you are in Scotland if you see the herd of Highland cattle or glimpse a dark Hebridean sheep . These animals are able to endure the harshest of conditions and thrive on the grasses and herbs characteristic of the heathland vegetation

Small scale peat cutting on Rhos Fiddle during medieval times left a legacy of pools which has attracted wading birds, particularly the curlew and snipe. Along with the heather, sphagnum moss and cotton grass are found in the wetter areas and there is a fine show of the yellow mountain pansy, a plant once common on Shropshire hilltops.

Where the surfaced forestry road comes to an end and the Kerry Ridgeway becomes a grassy track there is an area of heathland known as Lower Short Ditch Turbary. A turbary was a commoners right to cut peat for their own domestic use. It would have been a job for the hardy to fetch their fuel from this remote place. The Lower Short Ditch, is one of three defensive border earthworks along the Kerry Ridgeway thought to have been a control point for travellers.

INFORMATIONThe Sun, Clun: 01588 640305The White Horse, Clun: 01588 640305The Waterdine, Llanfair Waterdine: 01547 528214Lloyney Inn, Lloyney: 01547 528498


Start: Duffryn OS map 201 • Grid Ref: SO 226823

1 Turn left onto the Anchor–Clun road (B4368) and continue for 350 metres taking the next left turn. Follow the lane for about 1 km as it climbs up out of the Clun valley.

2 On the right take the driveway down to Black Mountain Farm. Bear right in front of the farmhouse then left through yard and past buildings.

3 After building on right take gate on right then keep left following bridleway along a track which leads to New House Farm.

4 Keep to bridleway above the farm then cross field down to join a track with fence line on your right.

5 Keep to bridleway along hillside through three gates. After passing above some woodland bear right down towards buildings of Badgermoor. Pass through bridle gate and turn left past the dwelling and join access track. Follow this out to the road.

6 Turn right then right again at T junction. Follow road down to Weals Farm on the Anchor- Clun road (B4368).

7 Cross road carefully turning right for a few metres. Take bridleway on left which follows an old track up the hillside. After passing through gate keep old fence line on left and continue forward to reach gate. Cross fields to Curney Farm.

8 On meeting farm drive turn left and follow track out to road.

9 Turn left and follow road past the wild open heathland of Rhos Fiddle.

10 Keep ahead after cattle grid, pass turn on left, then turn right onto track.

11 Keep ahead along track through forestry to a gate leading into grazing land. Follow track straight across, past the Cantlin Stone, to meet the Kerry Ridgeway. Turn right.

12 The Kerry Ridgeway has its own a distinctive waymark. Follow this as it runs along the English – Welsh border. For 4km, to Pantglas, it is a grass or stone trackway.

13 At Pantglas the Ridgeway joins the tarmac lane. Turn right here and keep to the Ridgeway all the way (4km) until it meets a junction of roads at Bishop’s Moat.

14 When you reach a junction of roads you will see the remains of the motte and bailey castle on your left. To visit Bishop’s Castle carry straight on, to continue on the Blue Remembered Hills Bridleway, turn right.

Finish: Bishop’s Moat • OS map 216 • Grid Ref: SO 292895

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Route 3 Duffryn to Bishop’s Moat: 11.5 miles / 19 km

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Bishop’s MoatStanding at a height of 340m (1,115ft), overlooking the Powys-Shropshire border, is the remains of a motte and bailey castle known as Bishop’s Moat. It is now a gorse covered mound but it can be seen how its position, lying at a narrow point along the hill, could have helped control access along the Ridgeway. The earthwork is on a site founded around 1120 and named after the bishops of Hereford who held the area in the middle ages, the district known as Bishop’s Teirtref. The castle stood at the western end of this territory and would have played a role in the administration of the area.

Jack Mytton WayPart of the Blue Remembered Hills Bridleway coincides with the Jack Mytton Way. This 68 mile route crosses Shropshire from the River Severn to the Welsh border at Llanfair Waterdine. The distinctive waymark depicts the legendary Jack Mytton, a characterful but wayward local landowner after whom the route is named. There is also a network of ten circular routes linked to the Jack Mytton Way which criss cross the Shropshire Hills, stretching from Wenlock Edge, across the Long Mynd, to the jagged Stiperstones. Further details from Shropshire County Council.

Bury DitchesBury Ditches is a spectacular Iron Age hill fort which can be visited on foot. The fort occupies an area of about 3 hectares (7½ acres) and is widely acknowledged as one of the finest hill forts in Britain. The defending ramparts are up to seven metres high and were designed to help the inhabitants survive the most ferocious of attacks. It is only since the 1970’s that visitors have been able to see the fort in its full splendour as previously it was well hidden by forestry for many decades.

Bishop’s Moat to ClunBishops and Brewing

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Route 4




The Bridleway winds down from the Kerry Ridgeway through the farming landscape west of Bishop’s Castle. The town is only a further two miles along to the end of the Ridgeway and is well worth a visit. Formerly one of the smallest boroughs in England the town is a vibrant community. It was founded in Saxon times when the land was given to the Bishop of Hereford by the lord of the manor, Egwin Shakehead, after he was cured of palsy in Hereford Cathedral. A castle was built in the 11th century and the town gradually grew up around it.

The occupations and industries in the town are still predominately based on agriculture. Brewing has been carried out since at least the 17th century when the Three Tuns public house obtained a licence and the tradition continues in the town to this day. There are two breweries in the town and there is much of interest to the visitor among the historic streets.

The remote rural community of Mainstone is named after the stone which now stands in front of the pulpit of the Parish Church. It was most likely used as a weight for bags of grain as the settlement in medieval times was a trading post on the Kerry Ridgeway. However there is a local folk tale, dating from the 19th century, which recounts the stone (weighing 204.5 pounds!) was used by the young men of the locality to demonstrate their strength and win their lady love. According to the tale the young men competed in a test of strength which involved throwing the stone across the quaintly named river Unk. The one to throw the ‘mainstone’ the furthest won the hand of the lady of his choice. It is unlikely that the local youth of today would go to such lengths to ‘get their girl!’

INFORMATIONThe Sun, Clun: 01588 640305The White Horse, Clun: 01588 640305


Start: Bishop’s Moat • OS map 216 Grid Ref: SO292896

1 At junction of roads take a right turn towards Mainstone. Turn off the road where it bears right, after about 400 metres, and take the lane ahead.

2 As the lane begins to climb take a bridleway on the left which crosses fields then follows round the hillside to join a stone track.

3 Just before Middle Woodbatch Farm there is a junction of bridleways. Turn right up a sunken lane which climbs uphill, crosses a field to a gate onto another bridleway.

4 Turn right and follow track out to road. Cross straight over road and follow the track which takes Shropshire Way over Reilth Top.

5 At road turn left and continue for about ½ mile (1km). At Cefn Einion go straight over the crossroads and left at the next junction. After another ½ mile (1km) turn right into forestry and follow track through Blakeridge Wood.

6 Where a track joins from left keep right then follow the track as it bears to the right eventually reaching a track leading to the left out of the forestry into a grass field with a track leading out to the road by farm buildings.

7 Turn left onto road and follow out to the A488 Bishops Castle – Clun Road.

8 Cross straight over onto a minor road to Acton. In hamlet bear right towards Acton House then left onto a hedged lane which climbs up and along the side of Acton Bank to Brockton village.

9 At Brockton turn right onto road and follow for about 2km to Bury Ditches car park.

10 Keep left through the car park and here the route joins the

Jack Mytton Way and runs along the hillside below the hillfort.

11 The route turns left off the main forestry track. This joins the road at Guilden Down and descends into the town of Clun past the Youth Hostel and Memorial Hall.

12 After passing the Memorial Hall turn left along Ford Street to High Street and the village centre.

Finish: Clun High Street OS map 201 Grid Ref: SO304808

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Route 4 Bishop’s Moat to Clun: 12 miles / 19.5 km

clun to llanfair waterdine serenity, conflict and inspiration › ... › brh-leaflets-v6.pdf ·...

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