CLIMBERS GUIDE TO HASSLER CRAG

This guide was originally produced by Justin Turnbull. Justin and a number of other Fort St. John climbers including Jory Earl, Greg Monahan and Jay Watt are credited with developing this crag. The original guidebook produced by Justin is no longer available.

Members of the Prince George Section of the Alpine Club of Canada took all reasonable efforts to locate the aforementioned climbers. An Internet and telephone directory search was completed in April 2004 and these climbers could not be found. Therefore, formal permission for the guide’s use could not given. To prevent this valuable information from being lost, the drawings from this guide were scanned and reproduced in its current form. No fees for the revised guide are charged. It is understood that the rights to this document remain with Justin Turnbull and this document will be returned to him at his request.

Through the work of several climbers, including Chris Small (who updated the guide to Version 1.2) a number of new climbs have been added to this version which where not present at the time of the original guide.

This is version 1.3 of the revised guide dated May 2014.

Warning: Rock climbing involves risks inherent to the sport and it is you and you alone who are responsible for your personal safety. It is far beyond the scope of this book to instruct proper safety techniques. If you need instruction seek experienced climbers or professional guides. This book is not to be held responsible for misprints, mistakes or outright sandbags.

You are responsible for your own safety! Inspect all bolts before you trust them with your life.

Please respect this crag and the private lands that it is located on. Respect the wishes of its owners at all times.

Do not litter. Unfortunately, in recent years, litter and human feces have begun to become an issue at the crag.

There are no washroom or outhouse facilities at the crag. If you're uncertain of how to deal with your feces away from such amenities, a good article to start with is at http://www.climbing.com/skill/guide-to-going-number-two/

The crag is in bear country. Please do your part to avoid attracting them.

If we all work together to keep the crag clean and maintained, we'll be able to enjoy it for years to come.

CLIMB SAFELY | CLIMB SMART | CLIMB HARD

Important information: 911 operates in this area

Location of the Hassler Crag in relation to Chetwynd

2

TOPO GUIDEA Route Name Grade

First Free Ascent Gear type

“*” Signifies a Spectacular Route“R” Somewhat runout but not extreme“X” Bolt or Anchor“LB” lay back“OW” Off Width Most anchors have a metal plate with the climb name and grade Leave established routes as is, no fixed pins are to be used

where gear can be placed. Hand scars and cuts tend to get infected easily due to the nature

of the lichen at the crag. Exercise proper hygiene after climbing and especially after cleaning routes.

A JAY IN THE SHADE 5.10dFFA Jay Watt 1998 R.P.s

B THE WILL TO LIVE 5.9FFA Chris Small 2006 R.P.'s at top

C PUT IN A HOLDING PATTERN 5.10 ***FFA Chris Small 2006

TRAIL Access Trail from Hwy 97____________________________________________

NOTE: Easiest top access is to walk approx. 150m further climber's left to a walk up path (follow the left-hand path after the rock stairs; not shown).

1 Access Trail 1 Access to the top of the crag.Low 5th class

Note: This low 5th class trail has a crux traverse high on the wall. Less experienced climbers may prefer trail #2.

A WEEKEND WARRIOR 5.7FFA: Jory Earl Gear to 2”

B SELF SERVICE PUMP 5.10b *FFA: Jory Earl 5 bolts

C FLESH & BONE 5.10bFFA: Jory Earl (Solo)

D WAY OF THE WARRIOR 5.10b*FFA Chris Small 2006 Gear to 2.5” (1 bolt)

E WARRIORS TRAVERSE 5.8FFA Byran Kent 2005 Gear to 2.5”Climb bottom of Way... then traverse right under roof to anchor of Weekend Warrior

F SHADY SIDE 5.8FFA Chris Wagner 2012 Gear to 1.5”Chimney the cave by Way... then face climb to the anchors.

G THREADFALL 5.10aFFA Chris Wagner 2014 Gear to 18mmStarts on top of the Dragon feature.

H OPEN PROJECTFFA attempt to determine if bolting needed at midwall.

2 Access Trail 2 Access to the top of the crag.4th class scramble.

A SELF SERVICE PUMP 5.10b *FFA: Jory Earl 5 bolts

B STUMPY 5.8FFA: Jory Earl Gear to 2”

C INCLINDED 5.7 *FFA: Jory Earl Gear to 2”

D COUCH TRIP 5.5FFA: Jory Earl Gear to 2”

E DOUBLE TAKE 5.8 *FFA: Jory Earl Gear to 2.5”

F HISSY FIT 5.9FFA: Greg Monahan Gear to 2.5”

G MID-LINE CRISIS 5.10cFFA: Chris Small Gear to 2” (4 bolts)

H Open Project Est. 5.11-12a-b?FFA: Unknown Gear to 1.5” (5 bolts)

I Grand Central Station 5.9FFA: Chris Small Gear to 1.5” (2 bolts)Note: Grand Central station shares anchors with Open Project, but the route is climbers right of the anchors.

J THE DEFLOWERING 5.9FFA Ben Heemserk 2005

K CLAUDES HAIRY CRACK 5.8FFA Chris Small 2005

A HISSY FIT 5.9FFA: Greg Monahan Gear to 2.5”

B WANGLIN 5.10a *FFA: Jay Watt Gear to 3” (1 bolt)

C SHAKE & BAKE 5.9 *FFA: Greg Monahan Gear to 3”

H SISSY FIT 5.8FFA Ben H. 2006Climb Hissy Fit to to of crack, then angle right along the line of weakness to the anchors of Wanglin'

G ARMAGEDDON DESTRUCTOR 5.12cFFA: Trent Hoover 2012 9 bolts(Revelations is 5.10c [FFA: Chris Small] to mid bolts)

D NOSE GOBLINS 5.7+ *FFA: Neil Webster Gear to 3.5”

E SUDDEN IMPACT 5.10cFA: Justin Turnbull Gear to 1”

F ANOREXIA CRACK 5.11c R *FFA: Justin Turnbull Gear to 1”, R.P.’s

H DREAMER 5.11aFFA: Stephen Keim 5 bolts

I WAKE UP! Est. 5.12dFFA: Unknown (Go for it!)

J DASHED DREAMS 5.11bFFA: Stephen Keim 2012 Gear to 1”

A SUDDEN IMPACT 5.10cFA: Justin Turnbull Gear to 1”

B JORY’S GLORY 5.10c *FFA: Jay Watt Gear to 2”

E THE COWBOYS WAY 5.11cFFA: Clayton Sheen 5 bolts

C TEXAS TUNNEL 5.9FFA: Duane Budalich Gear to 4”

D THE QUICK & THE DEAD 5.10d *FFA: Justin Turnbull Gear to ½”

F WENDY EST. 5.9FFA: Unknown (Go for it!) 6 bolts

G PETER PAN 5.11bFFA: Jesse Keim 11 bolts

H SMEE 5.11aFFA: Stephen Keim 3 bolts

I THE LOST BOYS 5.??FFA: Unknown (Go for it!)

A THE QUICK & THE DEAD 5.10d *FFA: Justin Turnbull Gear to ½”

B MIGHTY MOUSE 5.10cFFA Greg Monahan Gear to 3.5”

D THE DISIPLINE HAND 5.10cFFA: J. Turnbull / J. Earl Gear to 2”

C IN THE SHADOWS 5.10cFFA: Denis Morin Gear to 2”

A IN THE SHADOWS 5.10cFFA: Denis Morin Gear to 2”

B DANGEROUS GEOMETRY 5.10a R *FFA: Jory Earl Gear to 2”Note: Runout traverse

C COMFORTABLY NUMB 5.11b *FFA: Jory Earl Gear to ½”

D DARK WARRIOR 5.10b or 5.7FFA G. Monahan / J. Turnbull Gear to 2”Note: Can be climbed as a 5.8 to mid anchors

E Unknown 5.9FFA: Unknown (Go for it!) Gear to 3”

A COMFORTABLY NUMB 5.11b *FFA: Jory Earl Gear to ½”

B PRESSURE COOKER 5.6 / A1FA: Dennis Morin Gear to ½”

C SNAKE FLAKE 5.8FFA Dennis Norin Big Gear

E BIONIC 511c R *FFA: Justin Turnbull V. small to 2.5”

D BABY SNAKES 5.10a *FFA:

F HIGH PRESSURE TEST 5.10bFFA Justin Turnbull Gear to 3”

60 M to the climbers right of baby snakes is an obvious right facing corner.A THE INCREDIBLE LAYBACK 5.10a

FFA Jory Earl Gear to 6”Note: bush rats have infested this climb.

Approximately 150 m to the climber’s right of The Incredible Layback the cliff becomes less steep with a large ledge with birch and open scree slope. 5 m past the open scree slope is a beautiful splitter crack thru a slab.A ASHES TO ASHES 5.8

FFA: Chris Small 2003 Gear to 3”

B DUST TO DUST 5.8FFA: Chris Small 2003 Gear to 2”

C MOTHERLESS CHILD 5.6Andrew Bowers 2012immediately right of Dust to Dust

Disappointed with out of date guidebooks? Well then pick up your pencil and shown us your artistic skills by drawing your new route and providing it as well as a short description to the editor of the guide. You will be doing your climbing friends a favour as well as getting yourself in the history books.

There is still a LOT of development potential at Hassler – all it takes is the vision, investment in time, cleaning, scrubbing, and documentation.