chinese fashion review
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Youth today are not looking to straight up copy other countries’ looks, they want to mix, match and adapt. What we found were style chameleons – expressing one style one day, another the next. - The Bergstrom GroupTRANSCRIPT
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Distinctly Different:CHINESE FASHION REVIEW
Fall/Winter 2010-2011
www.thebergstromgroup.com telling the story of new China
Introduction
Youth today are not looking to straight up copy other countries’ looks, they want to mix, match and adapt. What we found were style chameleons – expressing one style one day, another the next. Sometimes how they defined their own fashion did not seem to be in line with how outsiders would categorize them. There also seems to be a difference in tier dressing and a need for non-mainstream style to be split into a few, more specific segments. And, for youth willing to shell out for fashion, paying more does not necessarily equate with wanting to stand out.
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Shanghai: China’s Fashion Capital in 5 Years
News from the 12th Five-Year plan of Shanghai NPC &CPPCC (National People’s Congress and Chinese People’s Political Consultative Conference). Thirteen goals were set during the conference including the intent to build an international, civilized metropolis of fashionable glamour.
Jingping Wu, a Professor at Fudan University, commented, “Building an international civilized metropolis of fashionable glamour is the orientation of Shanghai urban culture. The commercial value of culture has been given undue attention to; however, Shanghai’s ultimate goal is to show people a modern culture and to respect diverse values, morality, humanity and ethics. While we are pursuing fashionable glamour, Shanghai’s unique characteristics shall be reflected as well.” See our previous post on it here.
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To propose a more authentic representation of modern Chinese tastes, our teams took to the streets in tier one, two and three cities to ask youth about their personal take on fashion and how they define elusive and changing Chinese styles. Take a look at our post on it here.
Check out more street snaps in our feature in That’s SHANGHAI February 2011 issue: “The real cool hunters”.
Defining Chinese Style
-20, m, Shanghai via Hangzhou
Japanese hand-made glass 300 RMBTaobao boots 300 RMB
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Street Fashion Fall/Winter 2010-2011
My style is not like Chinese style. I am more into Hong Kong and Taiwanese style, which
is influenced by Japan, Korea and Singapore. I think I am a little bit ‘xiao qing xin’ (小清新,
Boho-ish style) but, as you can see, the colors of my outfit are stronger than ‘xiao
qing xin’. – Xinyi, 18, f, Shanghai
ACU hat 300-400 RMBJeans 200-300 RMB
Nike shoes 600-700 RMB
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I am more Japanese style with this cape, but usually I prefer punk, European and American
styles because I work in a gaming company. Chinese young people dress more in a
Korean way because we share similar sizes and it's easier to match up with different items.
- Anita, 29, f, Shanghai
Urban Renewal cape 200- 300 RMBCoach bag 3000 RMB
Wig from Taobao 30 RMB
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My favorite style is punk and my favorite sport is skateboarding. Many of my clothes are bought from my friend’s shop. He also helped get me into skateboarding. I think Chinese youth sometimes dress too mature and formal.- Xiaolong, 22, m, Nanjing via Nantong
Gravis sneakers 350 RMBLeather coat 1000 RMBAltamont jeans 130 RMB
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My style is European and mix and match. I think most Chinese guys like Japanese style, inspired by Edison Chen and his favorite trendy Japanese brands. A few years ago, most girls followed Mina and Rayli style (Japanese fashion magazine). Now, with more American TV shows entering China, girls are more influenced by American and European styles, from shows like Gossip Girl and the Vampire Diaries. Generally speaking, Chinese people tend to dress casually - they choose whatever is comfortable, but not as delicate as Japanese style and not as ‘prince-like’ as Korean style.– Wei, 24, m, Shanghai via Nantong
Overcoat 450 RMBShoes 300 RMBLeather belt 60 RMB
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These tie-dyed jeans are my favorite. I got the denim jacket from my brother, who bought it for me in the Philippines. People here in Yueyang are not
that trendy and most teenagers dress very non-mainstream.
– Swear, 20, f, Yueyang, Hunan province
Denim jacket 600 RMBStriped t-shirt 90 RMB
Tie-dyed jeans 220 RMB
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I am sick of girls on the street wearing all the same sweetie sweet styles, especially in winter
- all kinds of Korean style overcoats, thick stockings and high heel boots. I love European
and American youth looks. Younger hip hoppers look like they are wearing bags while
other guys learn from British style but still incorporate some Japanese elements. I think
Shanghainese guys are either too put-on or too sloppy.
- Kaine, 23, f, Shanghai
Cheap Monday denim shorts 300 RMBH&M t-shirt 200-300 RMB
Dr. Marten boots 1000 RMB
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I like to dress up in a cute and sweet way. Some young people are more non-
mainstream style, some Korean and some British, but most youth are just plain, wearing
whatever they feel is comfortable. Non-mainstream style is pretty scary; they
exaggerate punk and gothic style, trying their best to be abnormal.
- Yiyue, 22, f, Nantong
Earmuff 18 RMBBag 100 RMB
Glasses 20 RMB
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I don’t really pay a lot attention to fashion. I focus on my work (as a graphic designer). I am influenced by diverse music and a constant sugar high probably drives me sometimes too. Today, my whole outfit down to my underwear is from Uniqlo except my Nike shoes.– Fish, 22, m, Shanghai
Uniqlo shirt 200-300 RMBUniqlo jeans 300 RMBNike shoes 15 USD (bought in U.S.)
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I like ‘chao’ style (潮, trendy, literally meaning moist) and I think Edison Chen’s brands define ‘chao.’ I am a student in an arts school and that’s how people like me usually dress. I check Edison’s store Juice sometimes but the prices there are not reasonable for me. I’d rather shop on Taobao for A-class imitation products.– Xiaobai, 18, m, Shanghai (on the right)
Coat 200-300 RMBJeans 100-200 RMBNike shoes 890 RMB
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I am a graduate student at the Shanghai Conservatory of Music and so my style is affected by the cultures and music I learn about from foreign musicals, especially those from the UK. Today, I dressed more artistically and business-like because I am doing business in music now. Some students in my school are more gentlemen style, they have long hair and dress formally, but others prefer casual or hip hop style.- Fu, 28, m, Shanghai via Shandong
GXG overcoat 2000 RMBGXG scarf 400 RMBShoes 300 RMB
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Take Aways
Although they may ultimately save money by buying online, youth are most definitely in stores – mining inspiration from brands and locations they trust to help them curate their own styles. And, while willing to pay less for some knock-off fashion items, shoes need to be the real deal. Youth across the board are aware of and able to access foreign and often unavailable in the mainland brands, they are in the know more than we know.
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ABOUT US
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OUR STORY
Established in 2006, The Bergstrom Group has developed a reputation for providing vivid customer immersions for brands and agencies. We began our commitment to China by focusing on youth and have since broadened our scope to include women across lower tier to tier one.
Based in Shanghai, our on-the-ground team of subject matter experts, researchers, trendspotters and photographers is dedicated to telling the story of new China in a way that is both authentic and actionable.