Right: Typical �rewall former (optional). Back side is top, front below.

Double to ca 1 mm thickness.

Use for simple display or for modifying existing �rewall in the model you build.

A super-detailed Clerget engine model would include magnetos, fuel pump, and various plumbing details on the back of the large diameter �xed section.

They are not included in the Mark Miller drawing, and have been left out of the kit for now.

Engine instructions

The whole engine rotates, hinged as the fullsize, in a unit which is �xed mainly to the �rewall, and stabilized further aft along the long carburettor intake tube, and the two transverse air intakes at the rear. They are the little stubs sticking out from each side of most rotary engine WWI-aircraft, and must be dimensioned according to the fuselage width of the speci�c aircraft modeled. They cannot be added until the engine has been installed in the fuselage. There is a stopper hidden inside the rear carburettor distance tube. This means that you will have to build the rear section, and attach the engine to it, in a speci�c order:

1) Glue the rotary front, main, part of the engine to the 2mm shaft. Be careful to follow dimensions given in the sideview drawing.

2) Make the three bearings of 3 mm diameter (2 mm inner diameter) tubing.

• Insert & glue the first piece in the main engine mount (the one that will be stuck into the firewall eventually).• Stick the rotary, main, section of the engine, on its shaft, through this main engine mount, and add the stopper piece of 3 mm tube. Glue this to the shaft. It will rotate, hidden in the carb distance tube.• Stick the carb distance tube onto the main engine mount, over the shaft, and its stopper. Glue it at the front end.• Stick the last piece of the bearing into the endpiece, and insert this into the rear end of the carb distance tube, over the shaft, joining the carb distance tube, and glue it to that tube. The shaft & stopper will now rotate freely inside since the distance tube is of slightly larger diameter. The shaft and rotary section of the engine are supported by the bearings in the main engine mount in the �rewall, and the bearing in the end piece.

3) The engine is now �nished. It is entirely self-contained and can be plugged into the large, true-to-scale, diameter opening in the �rewall. After the cowling of the aircraft has been glued in place, you can just stick the prop on to the shaft. Friction will usually su�ce to keep it in place.

Crankcase center section: • 9-section cylinder base section in the middle; identical front & rear formers top & bottom.• Cylinder base rests on inner 9-sided doublers, �ush with outer textured front & back. • Round doubled parts form bases for front & rear crankcase cone-shaped sections.

Gluestrip - score & mount halfway in on back of outer textured part.

Below: Rear end crankcase sections. This section closest to center section: Intake manifold base.

Intake manifold lower ends glued against outer rim of this section - c.f. original drawing for positions. Rearmost crankcase conical section. If you model double

spark plugs on each cylinder, glue double ignition wires to back of previous intake manifold section. Then glue this section in place, securing the ignition wires.

This end rotates against �rewall.

Parts to the right are for the �xed section, installed in the �rewall and fuselage. Only for a very detailed model.

Roll toinner diam. 2mmouter diam. 3mm

Below: Front end crankcase sections. This section closest to propeller: Shaft housing & front cone.

This section: Main frontal cone-shaped section

Glue this end to front of crankcase section, above right

You may wish to leave these uncut

Above: Cylinder parts only for identi�cation. Parts for cutting out on next page. All cylinder sections built up with lids, top & bottom, resting on inner

Head

Head

Base

Base

Main

Main

Exhaust valve

Intake valve

Intake manifold

layer gluestrips, �ush with outer edges. Glue inner layer gluestrip about halfway in on back of outer textured parts . Crankcase cone-shaped parts

below made with similar technique. Press down lid of smaller end �rst, from the inside. Then add larger end lid. Each section made separately.

This very detailed 3D illustration of a Clerget 130 hp engine is made by Mark W. Miller. See http://mwmiller.theaerodrome.com/ for the original and other vintage aircraft 3D-artwork by Mark Miller. As republished here (permission pending), the illustration is to correct 1/16 scale, and has been used to design the parts for the Clerget 9-cylinder 130 hp

engine. Crankcase front view, one cylinder & some details may be seen faintly overlaid. Refer to this drawing for positioning of details. General design and pattern of several details based (with permission) on an original model by Richard Schulten. His 1/11 scale model of the earlier Clerget 7-cylinder 80 hp engine from 1913 is here: http://home.planet.nl/~schul923/submersible.html

Make pushrods from pins or wire of suitable diameter. Sleeves of thin paper - do not �x until mounted on crankcase.

Prop

Main shaft 2 mm pianowire or similar

3 sections of 3mm metal tubes (2mm inner diameter): • Glue this in fixed section, and shove that section on. • Glue this on 2 mm shaft as a stopper. • Glue this in fixed section endpiece and shove that section on to shaft, with distance paper tube in between; shaft rotates inside.

Pack up with ca 2 rounds of paper as spacers

Endpiece topview: A piece of cocktail stick + 2 paper tubes for air intakes

Rotary section above; �xed section in fuselage right.

Left: Carb distance tube

Add air intakes when engine has been installed in fuselage

Alternative prop (right): A truly layered 1/16 scale prop, all in paper, from Paper-modelers.com:

http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/downloads.php?do=file&id=78

(Inner layer; glue ca halfway in on back of outer layer below to form gluestrip)Left part has front on top half,

back on lower half. Right part is the other way around. Shape front half from backside, to bulge.Shape back half from front side, to trough.

Front

Front

Front

Rear

Rear

Rear

Fold up and glue the parts above doubled. Details (with spares) to add on to the prop retainers optional. The two retainers for the prop go on each side of the �nished prop.

Glue the parts with glue tabs below on the back of the doubled-up end sections (front and rear) above. Remaining parts below make up the hub of the prop. Glue the end sections complete with glue tabs on to the hub. Lines and cross marks are for proper alignment.

1. The basic parts of the prop laid out - two pieces, plus the hub which is already assembled here. The two main pieces twist around so that each of them starts as the front side of one blade, and ends up as the back side of the other blade.

2. One piece has been glued to the hub exactly on the alignment marks. Then the back of the front side is glued to the rear endplate, and the front rolled down and shaped on to the front end piece. All this could be made in one go.

3. The rear sections of the prop are glued down. The strange angle of the rear section is still visible in the lower part of the photo, while the top part miraculously has been shaped to correct position just by pressing at the point indicatred.

4. The �nished prop. Retainers with optional details have been added. When you’ve glued down and joined front and rear apply extra twist to the blades, and shape them between your �ngers further. The prop will stand quite rough handling.

Clerget 9-cyl 130 hpRotary Engine 1/16 scale

& Sabre-shaped PropPrinting advice: The kit is formatted to work for both A4 and US Letter paper size in inkjet printers. Be sure that your are not using any kind of “Scale to fit paper size” setting.

Feedback & comments to:

Leif Ohlssonwww.papermodelers.com

Cover photo Fleet Air Arm Museum, Yeovilton (by Wikimedia).

Engine model based on a previous 7-cylinder version

by Richard Schultenand 3D-renderings by Mark W. Miller

Large Scale 1/16 Paper Aircraft Models

by Leif Ohlsson

The engine model is a beta-versionfor test-building.

The prop model is well proven.

Right: Typical �rewall former (optional). Back side is top, front below.

Double to ca 1 mm thickness.

Use for simple display or for modifying existing �rewall in the model you build.

A super-detailed Clerget engine model would include magnetos, fuel pump, and various plumbing details on the back of the large diameter �xed section.

They are not included in the Mark Miller drawing, and have been left out of the kit for now.

Engine instructions

The whole engine rotates, hinged as the fullsize, in a unit which is �xed mainly to the �rewall, and stabilized further aft along the long carburettor intake tube, and the two transverse air intakes at the rear. They are the little stubs sticking out from each side of most rotary engine WWI-aircraft, and must be dimensioned according to the fuselage width of the speci�c aircraft modeled. They cannot be added until the engine has been installed in the fuselage. There is a stopper hidden inside the rear carburettor distance tube. This means that you will have to build the rear section, and attach the engine to it, in a speci�c order:

1) Glue the rotary front, main, part of the engine to the 2mm shaft. Be careful to follow dimensions given in the sideview drawing.

2) Make the three bearings of 3 mm diameter (2 mm inner diameter) tubing.

• Insert & glue the first piece in the main engine mount (the one that will be stuck into the firewall eventually).• Stick the rotary, main, section of the engine, on its shaft, through this main engine mount, and add the stopper piece of 3 mm tube. Glue this to the shaft. It will rotate, hidden in the carb distance tube.• Stick the carb distance tube onto the main engine mount, over the shaft, and its stopper. Glue it at the front end.• Stick the last piece of the bearing into the endpiece, and insert this into the rear end of the carb distance tube, over the shaft, joining the carb distance tube, and glue it to that tube. The shaft & stopper will now rotate freely inside since the distance tube is of slightly larger diameter. The shaft and rotary section of the engine are supported by the bearings in the main engine mount in the �rewall, and the bearing in the end piece.

3) The engine is now �nished. It is entirely self-contained and can be plugged into the large, true-to-scale, diameter opening in the �rewall. After the cowling of the aircraft has been glued in place, you can just stick the prop on to the shaft. Friction will usually su�ce to keep it in place.

Crankcase center section: • 9-section cylinder base section in the middle; identical front & rear formers top & bottom.• Cylinder base rests on inner 9-sided doublers, �ush with outer textured front & back. • Round doubled parts form bases for front & rear crankcase cone-shaped sections.

Gluestrip - score & mount halfway in on back of outer textured part.

Below: Rear end crankcase sections. This section closest to center section: Intake manifold base.

Intake manifold lower ends glued against outer rim of this section - c.f. original drawing for positions. Rearmost crankcase conical section. If you model double

spark plugs on each cylinder, glue double ignition wires to back of previous intake manifold section. Then glue this section in place, securing the ignition wires.

This end rotates against �rewall.

Parts to the right are for the �xed section, installed in the �rewall and fuselage. Only for a very detailed model.

Roll toinner diam. 2mmouter diam. 3mm

Below: Front end crankcase sections. This section closest to propeller: Shaft housing & front cone.

This section: Main frontal cone-shaped section

Glue this end to front of crankcase section, above right

You may wish to leave these uncut

Above: Cylinder parts only for identi�cation. Parts for cutting out on next page. All cylinder sections built up with lids, top & bottom, resting on inner

Head

Head

Base

Base

Main

Main

Exhaust valve

Intake valve

Intake manifold

layer gluestrips, �ush with outer edges. Glue inner layer gluestrip about halfway in on back of outer textured parts . Crankcase cone-shaped parts

below made with similar technique. Press down lid of smaller end �rst, from the inside. Then add larger end lid. Each section made separately.

This very detailed 3D illustration of a Clerget 130 hp engine is made by Mark W. Miller. See http://mwmiller.theaerodrome.com/ for the original and other vintage aircraft 3D-artwork by Mark Miller. As republished here (permission pending), the illustration is to correct 1/16 scale, and has been used to design the parts for the Clerget 9-cylinder 130 hp

engine. Crankcase front view, one cylinder & some details may be seen faintly overlaid. Refer to this drawing for positioning of details. General design and pattern of several details based (with permission) on an original model by Richard Schulten. His 1/11 scale model of the earlier Clerget 7-cylinder 80 hp engine from 1913 is here: http://home.planet.nl/~schul923/submersible.html

Make pushrods from pins or wire of suitable diameter. Sleeves of thin paper - do not �x until mounted on crankcase.

Prop

Main shaft 2 mm pianowire or similar

3 sections of 3mm metal tubes (2mm inner diameter): • Glue this in fixed section, and shove that section on. • Glue this on 2 mm shaft as a stopper. • Glue this in fixed section endpiece and shove that section on to shaft, with distance paper tube in between; shaft rotates inside.

Pack up with ca 2 rounds of paper as spacers

Endpiece topview: A piece of cocktail stick + 2 paper tubes for air intakes

Rotary section above; �xed section in fuselage right.

Left: Carb distance tube

Add air intakes when engine has been installed in fuselage

Alternative prop (right): A truly layered 1/16 scale prop, all in paper, from Paper-modelers.com:

http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/downloads.php?do=file&id=78

(Inner layer; glue ca halfway in on back of outer layer below to form gluestrip)Left part has front on top half,

back on lower half. Right part is the other way around. Shape front half from backside, to bulge.Shape back half from front side, to trough.

Front

Front

Front

Rear

Rear

Rear

Fold up and glue the parts above doubled. Details (with spares) to add on to the prop retainers optional. The two retainers for the prop go on each side of the �nished prop.

Glue the parts with glue tabs below on the back of the doubled-up end sections (front and rear) above. Remaining parts below make up the hub of the prop. Glue the end sections complete with glue tabs on to the hub. Lines and cross marks are for proper alignment.

1. The basic parts of the prop laid out - two pieces, plus the hub which is already assembled here. The two main pieces twist around so that each of them starts as the front side of one blade, and ends up as the back side of the other blade.

2. One piece has been glued to the hub exactly on the alignment marks. Then the back of the front side is glued to the rear endplate, and the front rolled down and shaped on to the front end piece. All this could be made in one go.

3. The rear sections of the prop are glued down. The strange angle of the rear section is still visible in the lower part of the photo, while the top part miraculously has been shaped to correct position just by pressing at the point indicatred.

4. The �nished prop. Retainers with optional details have been added. When you’ve glued down and joined front and rear apply extra twist to the blades, and shape them between your �ngers further. The prop will stand quite rough handling.

Clerget 9-cyl 130 hpRotary Engine 1/16 scale

& Sabre-shaped PropPrinting advice: The kit is formatted to work for both A4 and US Letter paper size in inkjet printers. Be sure that your are not using any kind of “Scale to fit paper size” setting.

Feedback & comments to:

Leif Ohlssonwww.papermodelers.com

Cover photo Fleet Air Arm Museum, Yeovilton (by Wikimedia).

Engine model based on a previous 7-cylinder version

by Richard Schultenand 3D-renderings by Mark W. Miller

Large Scale 1/16 Paper Aircraft Models

by Leif Ohlsson

The engine model is a beta-versionfor test-building.

The prop model is well proven.

Right: Typical �rewall former (optional). Back side is top, front below.

Double to ca 1 mm thickness.

Use for simple display or for modifying existing �rewall in the model you build.

A super-detailed Clerget engine model would include magnetos, fuel pump, and various plumbing details on the back of the large diameter �xed section.

They are not included in the Mark Miller drawing, and have been left out of the kit for now.

Engine instructions

The whole engine rotates, hinged as the fullsize, in a unit which is �xed mainly to the �rewall, and stabilized further aft along the long carburettor intake tube, and the two transverse air intakes at the rear. They are the little stubs sticking out from each side of most rotary engine WWI-aircraft, and must be dimensioned according to the fuselage width of the speci�c aircraft modeled. They cannot be added until the engine has been installed in the fuselage. There is a stopper hidden inside the rear carburettor distance tube. This means that you will have to build the rear section, and attach the engine to it, in a speci�c order:

1) Glue the rotary front, main, part of the engine to the 2mm shaft. Be careful to follow dimensions given in the sideview drawing.

2) Make the three bearings of 3 mm diameter (2 mm inner diameter) tubing.

• Insert & glue the first piece in the main engine mount (the one that will be stuck into the firewall eventually).• Stick the rotary, main, section of the engine, on its shaft, through this main engine mount, and add the stopper piece of 3 mm tube. Glue this to the shaft. It will rotate, hidden in the carb distance tube.• Stick the carb distance tube onto the main engine mount, over the shaft, and its stopper. Glue it at the front end.• Stick the last piece of the bearing into the endpiece, and insert this into the rear end of the carb distance tube, over the shaft, joining the carb distance tube, and glue it to that tube. The shaft & stopper will now rotate freely inside since the distance tube is of slightly larger diameter. The shaft and rotary section of the engine are supported by the bearings in the main engine mount in the �rewall, and the bearing in the end piece.

3) The engine is now �nished. It is entirely self-contained and can be plugged into the large, true-to-scale, diameter opening in the �rewall. After the cowling of the aircraft has been glued in place, you can just stick the prop on to the shaft. Friction will usually su�ce to keep it in place.

Crankcase center section: • 9-section cylinder base section in the middle; identical front & rear formers top & bottom.• Cylinder base rests on inner 9-sided doublers, �ush with outer textured front & back. • Round doubled parts form bases for front & rear crankcase cone-shaped sections.

Gluestrip - score & mount halfway in on back of outer textured part.

Below: Rear end crankcase sections. This section closest to center section: Intake manifold base.

Intake manifold lower ends glued against outer rim of this section - c.f. original drawing for positions. Rearmost crankcase conical section. If you model double

spark plugs on each cylinder, glue double ignition wires to back of previous intake manifold section. Then glue this section in place, securing the ignition wires.

This end rotates against �rewall.

Parts to the right are for the �xed section, installed in the �rewall and fuselage. Only for a very detailed model.

Roll toinner diam. 2mmouter diam. 3mm

Below: Front end crankcase sections. This section closest to propeller: Shaft housing & front cone.

This section: Main frontal cone-shaped section

Glue this end to front of crankcase section, above right

You may wish to leave these uncut

Above: Cylinder parts only for identi�cation. Parts for cutting out on next page. All cylinder sections built up with lids, top & bottom, resting on inner

Head

Head

Base

Base

Main

Main

Exhaust valve

Intake valve

Intake manifold

layer gluestrips, �ush with outer edges. Glue inner layer gluestrip about halfway in on back of outer textured parts . Crankcase cone-shaped parts

below made with similar technique. Press down lid of smaller end �rst, from the inside. Then add larger end lid. Each section made separately.

This very detailed 3D illustration of a Clerget 130 hp engine is made by Mark W. Miller. See http://mwmiller.theaerodrome.com/ for the original and other vintage aircraft 3D-artwork by Mark Miller. As republished here (permission pending), the illustration is to correct 1/16 scale, and has been used to design the parts for the Clerget 9-cylinder 130 hp

engine. Crankcase front view, one cylinder & some details may be seen faintly overlaid. Refer to this drawing for positioning of details. General design and pattern of several details based (with permission) on an original model by Richard Schulten. His 1/11 scale model of the earlier Clerget 7-cylinder 80 hp engine from 1913 is here: http://home.planet.nl/~schul923/submersible.html

Make pushrods from pins or wire of suitable diameter. Sleeves of thin paper - do not �x until mounted on crankcase.

Prop

Main shaft 2 mm pianowire or similar

3 sections of 3mm metal tubes (2mm inner diameter): • Glue this in fixed section, and shove that section on. • Glue this on 2 mm shaft as a stopper. • Glue this in fixed section endpiece and shove that section on to shaft, with distance paper tube in between; shaft rotates inside.

Pack up with ca 2 rounds of paper as spacers

Endpiece topview: A piece of cocktail stick + 2 paper tubes for air intakes

Rotary section above; �xed section in fuselage right.

Left: Carb distance tube

Add air intakes when engine has been installed in fuselage

Alternative prop (right): A truly layered 1/16 scale prop, all in paper, from Paper-modelers.com:

http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/downloads.php?do=file&id=78

(Inner layer; glue ca halfway in on back of outer layer below to form gluestrip)Left part has front on top half,

back on lower half. Right part is the other way around. Shape front half from backside, to bulge.Shape back half from front side, to trough.

Front

Front

Front

Rear

Rear

Rear

Fold up and glue the parts above doubled. Details (with spares) to add on to the prop retainers optional. The two retainers for the prop go on each side of the �nished prop.

Glue the parts with glue tabs below on the back of the doubled-up end sections (front and rear) above. Remaining parts below make up the hub of the prop. Glue the end sections complete with glue tabs on to the hub. Lines and cross marks are for proper alignment.

1. The basic parts of the prop laid out - two pieces, plus the hub which is already assembled here. The two main pieces twist around so that each of them starts as the front side of one blade, and ends up as the back side of the other blade.

2. One piece has been glued to the hub exactly on the alignment marks. Then the back of the front side is glued to the rear endplate, and the front rolled down and shaped on to the front end piece. All this could be made in one go.

3. The rear sections of the prop are glued down. The strange angle of the rear section is still visible in the lower part of the photo, while the top part miraculously has been shaped to correct position just by pressing at the point indicatred.

4. The �nished prop. Retainers with optional details have been added. When you’ve glued down and joined front and rear apply extra twist to the blades, and shape them between your �ngers further. The prop will stand quite rough handling.

Clerget 9-cyl 130 hpRotary Engine 1/16 scale

& Sabre-shaped PropPrinting advice: The kit is formatted to work for both A4 and US Letter paper size in inkjet printers. Be sure that your are not using any kind of “Scale to fit paper size” setting.

Feedback & comments to:

Leif Ohlssonwww.papermodelers.com

Cover photo Fleet Air Arm Museum, Yeovilton (by Wikimedia).

Engine model based on a previous 7-cylinder version

by Richard Schultenand 3D-renderings by Mark W. Miller

Large Scale 1/16 Paper Aircraft Models

by Leif Ohlsson

The engine model is a beta-versionfor test-building.

The prop model is well proven.

Right: Typical �rewall former (optional). Back side is top, front below.

Double to ca 1 mm thickness.

Use for simple display or for modifying existing �rewall in the model you build.

A super-detailed Clerget engine model would include magnetos, fuel pump, and various plumbing details on the back of the large diameter �xed section.

They are not included in the Mark Miller drawing, and have been left out of the kit for now.

Engine instructions

The whole engine rotates, hinged as the fullsize, in a unit which is �xed mainly to the �rewall, and stabilized further aft along the long carburettor intake tube, and the two transverse air intakes at the rear. They are the little stubs sticking out from each side of most rotary engine WWI-aircraft, and must be dimensioned according to the fuselage width of the speci�c aircraft modeled. They cannot be added until the engine has been installed in the fuselage. There is a stopper hidden inside the rear carburettor distance tube. This means that you will have to build the rear section, and attach the engine to it, in a speci�c order:

1) Glue the rotary front, main, part of the engine to the 2mm shaft. Be careful to follow dimensions given in the sideview drawing.

2) Make the three bearings of 3 mm diameter (2 mm inner diameter) tubing.

• Insert & glue the first piece in the main engine mount (the one that will be stuck into the firewall eventually).• Stick the rotary, main, section of the engine, on its shaft, through this main engine mount, and add the stopper piece of 3 mm tube. Glue this to the shaft. It will rotate, hidden in the carb distance tube.• Stick the carb distance tube onto the main engine mount, over the shaft, and its stopper. Glue it at the front end.• Stick the last piece of the bearing into the endpiece, and insert this into the rear end of the carb distance tube, over the shaft, joining the carb distance tube, and glue it to that tube. The shaft & stopper will now rotate freely inside since the distance tube is of slightly larger diameter. The shaft and rotary section of the engine are supported by the bearings in the main engine mount in the �rewall, and the bearing in the end piece.

3) The engine is now �nished. It is entirely self-contained and can be plugged into the large, true-to-scale, diameter opening in the �rewall. After the cowling of the aircraft has been glued in place, you can just stick the prop on to the shaft. Friction will usually su�ce to keep it in place.

Crankcase center section: • 9-section cylinder base section in the middle; identical front & rear formers top & bottom.• Cylinder base rests on inner 9-sided doublers, �ush with outer textured front & back. • Round doubled parts form bases for front & rear crankcase cone-shaped sections.

Gluestrip - score & mount halfway in on back of outer textured part.

Below: Rear end crankcase sections. This section closest to center section: Intake manifold base.

Intake manifold lower ends glued against outer rim of this section - c.f. original drawing for positions. Rearmost crankcase conical section. If you model double

spark plugs on each cylinder, glue double ignition wires to back of previous intake manifold section. Then glue this section in place, securing the ignition wires.

This end rotates against �rewall.

Parts to the right are for the �xed section, installed in the �rewall and fuselage. Only for a very detailed model.

Roll toinner diam. 2mmouter diam. 3mm

Below: Front end crankcase sections. This section closest to propeller: Shaft housing & front cone.

This section: Main frontal cone-shaped section

Glue this end to front of crankcase section, above right

You may wish to leave these uncut

Above: Cylinder parts only for identi�cation. Parts for cutting out on next page. All cylinder sections built up with lids, top & bottom, resting on inner

Head

Head

Base

Base

Main

Main

Exhaust valve

Intake valve

Intake manifold

layer gluestrips, �ush with outer edges. Glue inner layer gluestrip about halfway in on back of outer textured parts . Crankcase cone-shaped parts

below made with similar technique. Press down lid of smaller end �rst, from the inside. Then add larger end lid. Each section made separately.

This very detailed 3D illustration of a Clerget 130 hp engine is made by Mark W. Miller. See http://mwmiller.theaerodrome.com/ for the original and other vintage aircraft 3D-artwork by Mark Miller. As republished here (permission pending), the illustration is to correct 1/16 scale, and has been used to design the parts for the Clerget 9-cylinder 130 hp

engine. Crankcase front view, one cylinder & some details may be seen faintly overlaid. Refer to this drawing for positioning of details. General design and pattern of several details based (with permission) on an original model by Richard Schulten. His 1/11 scale model of the earlier Clerget 7-cylinder 80 hp engine from 1913 is here: http://home.planet.nl/~schul923/submersible.html

Make pushrods from pins or wire of suitable diameter. Sleeves of thin paper - do not �x until mounted on crankcase.

Prop

Main shaft 2 mm pianowire or similar

3 sections of 3mm metal tubes (2mm inner diameter): • Glue this in fixed section, and shove that section on. • Glue this on 2 mm shaft as a stopper. • Glue this in fixed section endpiece and shove that section on to shaft, with distance paper tube in between; shaft rotates inside.

Pack up with ca 2 rounds of paper as spacers

Endpiece topview: A piece of cocktail stick + 2 paper tubes for air intakes

Rotary section above; �xed section in fuselage right.

Left: Carb distance tube

Add air intakes when engine has been installed in fuselage

Alternative prop (right): A truly layered 1/16 scale prop, all in paper, from Paper-modelers.com:

http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/downloads.php?do=file&id=78

(Inner layer; glue ca halfway in on back of outer layer below to form gluestrip)Left part has front on top half,

back on lower half. Right part is the other way around. Shape front half from backside, to bulge.Shape back half from front side, to trough.

Front

Front

Front

Rear

Rear

Rear

Fold up and glue the parts above doubled. Details (with spares) to add on to the prop retainers optional. The two retainers for the prop go on each side of the �nished prop.

Glue the parts with glue tabs below on the back of the doubled-up end sections (front and rear) above. Remaining parts below make up the hub of the prop. Glue the end sections complete with glue tabs on to the hub. Lines and cross marks are for proper alignment.

1. The basic parts of the prop laid out - two pieces, plus the hub which is already assembled here. The two main pieces twist around so that each of them starts as the front side of one blade, and ends up as the back side of the other blade.

2. One piece has been glued to the hub exactly on the alignment marks. Then the back of the front side is glued to the rear endplate, and the front rolled down and shaped on to the front end piece. All this could be made in one go.

3. The rear sections of the prop are glued down. The strange angle of the rear section is still visible in the lower part of the photo, while the top part miraculously has been shaped to correct position just by pressing at the point indicatred.

4. The �nished prop. Retainers with optional details have been added. When you’ve glued down and joined front and rear apply extra twist to the blades, and shape them between your �ngers further. The prop will stand quite rough handling.

Clerget 9-cyl 130 hpRotary Engine 1/16 scale

& Sabre-shaped PropPrinting advice: The kit is formatted to work for both A4 and US Letter paper size in inkjet printers. Be sure that your are not using any kind of “Scale to fit paper size” setting.

Feedback & comments to:

Leif Ohlssonwww.papermodelers.com

Cover photo Fleet Air Arm Museum, Yeovilton (by Wikimedia).

Engine model based on a previous 7-cylinder version

by Richard Schultenand 3D-renderings by Mark W. Miller

Large Scale 1/16 Paper Aircraft Models

by Leif Ohlsson

The engine model is a beta-versionfor test-building.

The prop model is well proven.