By: Amairani Ordonez Men’s Edition

Table of content iii

Table of contents

Table of contents ......................................................................................................................................... iii

Introduction ................................................................................................................................................. v

The history of suits ...................................................................................................................................... 3

What’s a suit?............................................................................................................................................ 3

Where did men’s suits originated from? .................................................................................................. 3

The Renaissance ........................................................................................................................................ 4

The Baroque and Rococo era .................................................................................................................... 5

The Crinoline Period.................................................................................................................................. 5

The Bustle Period and the Nineties .......................................................................................................... 6

The Seventies ............................................................................................................................................ 6

The 21st Century ........................................................................................................................................ 6

How to select a suit by its fabric? ............................................................................................................... 11

What are natural fibers? ......................................................................................................................... 11

What are manufactured fibers? .............................................................................................................. 12

How to choose the right fabric for men's suits? ......................................................................................... 12

How to Identify a Good Pattern? ............................................................................................................ 13

How to find quality? ................................................................................................................................ 14

How to achieve the perfect fit? ............................................................................................................. 17

Men’s Sizing .......................................................................................................................................... 17

How to dress for a job interview? ............................................................................................................... 20

Colors .......................................................................................................................................................... 20

The meaning of colors ............................................................................................................................. 21

Quality over price ........................................................................................................................................ 21

Accessories ........................................................................................................................................... 21

Shoes ....................................................................................................................................................... 23

Watches .................................................................................................................................................. 23

Glases ...................................................................................................................................................... 23

Styling .......................................................................................................................................................... 24

How to achieve the perfect look? ............................................................................................................... 24

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School Day ............................................................................................................................................... 24

Date ......................................................................................................................................................... 24

Interview ................................................................................................................................................. 25

Garment Fit ............................................................................................................................................. 25

Introduction v

Introduction Have you ever thought about the clothes that you wear? If not, you might actually want to think about that again. In today’s society there is no such thing as “don’t judge a book by its cover” because anywhere you go, you are being judged by the way you look.

Making the right impression is always a good skill to have, because yes indeed knowing how to look good is a skill. This can be conveyed by styling, and this manual contains information to help you look good even when you don’t have the best looks or a model body-type. The key is to make others focus on your best features using clothes to help your figure and body type by wearing clothes that fit and go with the personality you want to showcase.

In the first chapter, you’ll find a summary covering thousands of years describing the evolution of men’s clothing. This section is important so that you can understand the complexity clothes have. You can also refer back to this section if you are attending an event in which you want to dress according to certain era in time.

The second section talks about fabric. In the textile world, fabric quality leads to garment quality; therefore being knowledgeable of the properties of fabric can only make you a smarter customer while shopping. This section is intended to inform you about the different fabrics available and which ones have the best properties to

It would be pointless to find clothes that fit if you are not able to put together an outfit that is going to make you look good. There are so many things you have to take under consideration when putting an outfit together. Knowing the key elements that showcase your personality can give you the confidence to rock the look that you are wearing by making a statement without having to say a word. Finding the right aesthetics and colors to wear is really important because they can give you a different vive, look, and professionalism. Color is the easiest way to emphasize that part of your body or face that you are comfortable with.

This manual will help you how to find the right clothes, with the right fit. It will give you tips on how to achieve the perfect look while being in style and to the latest trends.

3 The history of suits

The history of suits

What’s a suit? In clothing, by definition “a suit is a set of garments usually consisting of a pair of trousers and a jacket or coat crafted from the same cloth.” There’s a myth that this two have to be of the same color and fabric, but fashion has many shifts and today that rule doesn’t apply any more.

Where did men’s suits originated from? Men’s clothes have evolved over the years just like technology has transformed our lifestyles. Could you imagine yourself walking around the streets in tunics or shiny armor? If the answer is no, here is some history background to thank all those who contribute to the evolution on men’s clothing up to this day.

What does an Egyptian, a Greek, a Roman and any man before the Middle Ages have in common? All men used to wear tunics as their basic daily garment. A tunic is a long loose piece of clothing with a belt and no sleeves. Only emperors and important court officials wore full-length tunics. Underclothing was first introduced in the 10th century as undershirts and under drawers which eventually evolved to what we know today as a man’s shirt and basic undergarment. In the 11th century, men used to wear two tunics, one over the other. In the 12th century, medieval men began to wear metal armor to fight in the

crusades; underneath armor Bayeux Tapestry, a knee-length shirt split in front for riding, was worn. By the end of the 13th century, a change from mail to plate armor had begun. The pourpoint, also called doublet or gipon, is a sleeveless garment with a padded front originated as military dress. Pointy shoes gained popularity, but only the rich and noble people wore extreme forms of shoes.

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The Renaissance The Renaissance, or rebirth period, was the era with the biggest transition from the medieval to a modern view of man in the world. It began around the middle of the 14th century in Italy and lasted until the end of the 16th century. In the 14th century, Feudalism was their form of government, but changes in warfare hastened the decline of the armored knight on horseback. A series of famines affected the urban population mainly because

their crops and other source of food were ruined. As a result, starvation among them and living conditions worsened. The Europeans suffered another scourge known as the "Black Death," a plague that struck Europe, depleting a third of the European population. Serviceability in everyday clothing for the peasant was enforced, while the novelty was dressed in rich silk brocades and velvets trimmed with fur. In the 1420s, the court of the dukes of Burgundy was renowned for its splendid costume; the fabrics used in their garments were imported from all over Europe. It was then when the spinning wheel became the normal way of doing textiles. Tailors became more skilled in the construction of clothing. Men’s custome in the 1450-1500’s was very similar of what we have talk before; it was greatly influenced by the Italians. The outfit was composed of linen drawers, undershirts, doublets, and outer jackets. Pointy shoes begin to round off at the front; boots were often worn outdoors. In the 15th century the doublet was placed over and under shirt and beneath the jacket. In this century, religious attitudes also changed, Protestant Reformation spread among European nations, and their explorations established new routes that finally reached to the North and South American continents. The expansion in territory and the cross-cultural influences of dress were eminent changing fashions among nations. Slight changes were made to men’s clothing, they emphasized fullness in the construction of the costume with large, bulky, puffed areas and some garments were ornamented with decorative narrow strips of fabrics.

Undershirt

5 The history of suits

The Baroque and Rococo era In England, the political conflict between those who supported King Charles I and those who opposed him was reflected in the differences between the dress of the “Cavaliers” and the “roundheads.” It was Luis the XIV of France who centralized the power of government and focused attention on the court of “Versailles” which he used to display a new fashion for men in his court. King

Charles II of England sought asylum in France during the English Civil War. There he observed the latest French fashions. When he returned to claim the throne in England, established a uniform for men of the English Court; he decreed that they should wear a long coat, waistcoat (which was later called “petticoat”), cravat (a precursor of the necktie), wig, breeches (trousers), and a hat. The wardrobe men wore in the Baroque era is illustrated in the top image. It was composed of the shirt, a doublet, and a knee-length outer coat. In the Rococo era the line narrowed, shirts were worn under shorter waistcoats and a top coat worn open, angle towards the side with narrower breeches to the knee-length. The Empire Period men were more likely to wear trousers than knee breeches.

The Crinoline Period This era coincided with the Civil War in the US, as well as the Industrial Revolution. The manufacturing process increased within the sewing machines. The first French couture house opened in 1858, and the blue Denim trousers, known as “Levi’s” were popular as durable pants for men during the California Gold Rush. This is the first time we knitted-wool jersey suits for men, which were worn only to the beach. The tuxedo made its first appearance in 1870. By 1899 there was a wide variety of suits and coats.

Empire Period

Baroque

Rococo

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The Bustle Period and the Nineties It was until the 1990’s in which casual dress for business became more widely accepted. In the 1920’s the business suit was the most popular style among the California Collars which were worn with larger Windsor tie knot.

Casual sportswear after WWII became popular in the US. During this time men’s suits included shorter jackets with no patch pockets, belts, vents, pleats, tucks or yokes; no vests with double-breasted suits; and no pleats, tucks overlapping waistbands, or cuffs on trousers. The Teddy boys, created the first truly independent fashion for young people. They were young British adolescents who adopted styles in menswear. They wore longer jackets with more shaping, high turned-back lapels, cuffed sleeves, waistcoats, and well-cut narrow trousers. Television became commercially available to the American public in 1948. Influences on fashion among the young were imminent. In 1964 Congress passed the Civil Rights Bill, in 1965 the American sportswear manufacturer for men is open along with the first boutique for men.

The Seventies In the 1970’s three piece suits made their comeback, usually double breasted or single breasted. Color and pattern continue to be one option for men as leisure suits were worn as casual dress. The so called “punk” rock music in 1977, influenced to wear messy, baggy, ripped, clothes. In 1980 business suits had wide shoulders and easy fit until the 1990’s when the incorporation of stretch fibers made for more fitted garments.

The 21st Century Casual dress became more widely accepted. In 2003 the emphasis was on fitness which made activewear an important part on men’s wardrobes. In this decade more colorful and decorative clothing contributed to be an option to men. Guy’s fashion in the 21st century calls for more luxury in terms of fashion design. We also see the interest in perfumes, and accessories such are glasses, watches, belts, and scarves. Shoes have

Leisure suits

7 The history of suits

become the 3rd largest sale items for men in the past decade.

How to select a suit by its fabric? Fabric contributes to a garment’s aesthetics, function, and serviceability. In apparel, fabric is critical to the production of clothes. This section is here for you to have a broad understanding of the textile industry. Is important for you to understand the difference in fabrics, how they interact, their chemical and physical properties, and which one is the more appropriate for you.

Fabric fabrication goes beyond any chemical processes you may think of. There are so many different types of fabrics that interact differently do to their chemical and physical composition. There are four components of fabric: Fiber, yarn, structure and finish. Everything starts with the production of fibers which are the smallest part of a textile, a single hairlike strand very similar to hair. Fibers are either in staple or filament in length. Staple fibers are short measured in inches, or in filament which are measured in yards. In order to make fabric, short fibers must first be twisted together to form a continuous strand in more usable lengths called yarn.

What are natural fibers? Natural Fibers are those obtained directly from an animal, plant, or mineral source. All natural fibers are in staple except for silk, which is nature’s only filament fiber. Most common plant fibers, also referred as cellulose fibers, are cotton, linen, and hemp. They have good absorbency; they are warm and have a good hand so you can bet that that they are comfortable. In terms of looks, they have good appearance, moderate cost, and are durable, the down side with natural fibers is that they wrinkle easy, are flammable, they shrink, and within time they lose their original shape. All of them are easy care and you can wash them at home.

Natural animal fibers include wool, alpaca, angora, cashmere, mohair, merino, and camel. For a long time; although wool has been the most traditional fabric used for the elaboration of suits, it’s the one that requires the most maintenance. Wool can only be dry-cleaned, and causes itchiness. Some favorable properties include the fact that it is flammable resistant, keeps you warm, it resists wrinkles, and hides oil.

Silk is the most expensive fabric of all the natural fibers. It is considered as a luxury fiber used in high-end goods. Silk is a filament fiber which allows it to be extremely lustrous. Its super smooth, with good absorbency, it’s very fine yet very strong, it doesn’t pill, and does not shirk. The only bad thing about Silk is that it gets weakened by the sun and when it’s wet.

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What are manufactured fibers? Manufactured fibers are those of natural or synthetic origin whose chemical composition, structure, and properties have been significantly modified during the manufacturing process.

Examples are: Acetate, Triacetate, Rayon, and Lyocell. Their molecular structure gives them the ability to resist stretching, sunlight damage, and flame. A down side is that most of these fabrics must be dry-cleaned. Rayon is the fiber that’s more similar to Silk; it’s cheaper and requires less care.

Synthetic manufactured fibers are polymers made from chemical process utilizing petroleum-based chemicals, plastics, and/or coal. Examples are Acrylic, Nylon, Polyester and Spandex.

Fabric blends are the result of two or more different fibers together. They have gain popularity in the mass market because they are cheaper, are care-free, comfortable, and have good appearance. The most popular blend is polyester-wool, in which wool makes up at least 60% of the blend.

How to choose the right fabric for men's suits?

Now that we have talked about the difference in between fabrics, is up to your judgment whether you are going to select something that fits your needs. Each fabric has different qualities that can suit your needs based on the occasion you need to be dressed for. If you are thinking wool, there are four main weaves of it.

Tweed: Very heavy wool fabric, used in cold places. Flannel: Is the heaviest of the non-tweed wools. It’s durable, but it might be hot for an office environment. Tropical: It’s a lightweight wool crepe, which is ideal for summer or warmer climates. Worsted: is the best choice since it is durable, and can be worn all year round.

How to Identify a Good Pattern? Now that you know the difference in fabrics, you need to pay attention to lines. Lines determine the silhouette of the garment and the shapes formed within the garment, this can vary upon their length, boldness, thickness, or direction.

Texture is the surface or hand of a fabric; it can be attributed to a combination of the fabric’s characteristics such as the fiber or yarn, its construction, weight, and finish. All of these have a huge role in how the fabric drapes, as well as how this one is perceived in color.

A pattern can be created by the fabric’s texture; this one can be constructed into the fabric through weaving, knitting, and felting. Other methods to create patterns in fabric are conveyed though printing, embossing, or laser cutting. The lines used to create a pattern can influence on how wide or tall you look depending on the alignment, size and orientation of them.

• Horizontal lines make you look taller. • Vertical make you look wider. • Diagonal lines are good to create illusion. • Width of lines can also create an illusion on the way you look.

There are other patterns that are based out of figures. This can be symmetrical or asymmetrical, with figures, geometrical shapes, or random patterns. Pattern is a good way to make a signature on your look, but you must be careful. Apply the fun patterns into your ties or shirts, avoid then in your blazer or pants. Too much or the wrong mix can ruin your look, make you look tacky and out of place.

Along with pattern, you have fabrics that have a special treatment to them and they can either look shiny or mate. Shiny fabrics are the best ones to give you an edgy/polished look. Luster makes fabric look expensive.

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How to find quality? Quality is something you should always have in mind when purchasing clothes. They are an investment and the expense should be taken under consideration. Darts, Seams, Pleats and Gathers are shaping devices that mold the garment to the contours of the body. Trims, linings, interlinings, and underlying fabrics are an extra layer of supporting fabric used in almost all structured garments. They are most likely found in collars, cuffs, button areas, pocket openings and waistbands. Labels, threads, elastics, zippers, and buttons are findings needed to produce a garment.

Look for interlinings or interfacings; if the garment has at least three support devices, then it is a good quality one.

Always look at the stiches, if they are stitched properly your garment is going to last. Hems are the most popular finish at the edge of a garment.

How to find a suit that

fits?

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How to achieve the perfect fit? Men’s sizing has traditionally represented actual body measurements. Size has experienced vanity sizing, which is the manipulation of sizes within one store to attract more customers. A good example is to say that you are a medium shirt size at Gap, but you are a large size at Old Navy, since you are a smaller size at Gap you will most likely buy your shits at that particular store.

Men’s wear categories have evolved over the past century as clothing needs, economic conditions, and lifestyle changes. Example: Men’s tailored suits may be found in wide range of price points including tailored suits and casualwear. Men’s Sizing Men’s Suits, Jackets and Coats are label first with the chest girth measurement followed with

height classifications such as: Short, Regular, Tall or long, and Extra tall.

The Drop is the difference in the circumference between the chest and the waist measurement. A 6 to 10inch drop is common, depending on the cut of the suit.

Pants size is based on two basic measurements the Waist Girth and Inseam. The waist girth is usually given in even sizes from 28 to 40, in 2-inch increments. Inseam is taken on the inside of the leg from the crotch seam to the bottom of the hem of the pants; it ranges from 29 to 34 inches.

Casual shirts, sweaters, undershirts and pajamas are sized by the chest measurement which is label S, M, L, and XL.

When trying on clothes, make sure that they fit right. If you can’t cup your hands under the hem of the jacket then it’s too long. Follow the seasons, cotton suits in summer, tweeds and flannels in the winter. Keep your patterns subtle or isolate them in small doses; don’t overdo them.

Know what size shirt you wear. Always buy a fitted dress shirt even if you are not as trim as you’d like; this doesn’t mean go on and buy a shirt that is two sizes smaller than your regular size, nor buy a shirt that is too big for you. The sleeve must have enough length for the arm to

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bend without pulling on the cuff. A matting patterned yoke to sleeve is sign of great quality. Remember that the edges of a spread-collar dress shirt should be covered by the jacket front. In the next page you’ll find a visual guide on how your suit should fit.

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How to dress for a job interview?

Colors Color is probably the most powerful element in your outfit. Understanding how color affects the figure can provide options when selecting colors to aid your silhouette or skin color. Monochromatic colors tend to slim one’s figure because they create an illusion on height. When top and bottom are different colors, the straight line is broken up into two shorter shapes.

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The meaning of colors Red is viewed as the color for passion in many countries.

Orange is the color of social communication and optimism.

Yellow is the color of the mind, many say that represents intelligence and attracts money.

Green is the color of balance.

Blue is the color of trust and peace.

Purple is the color of imagination, it leads to creativity.

Gold is the color of success.

White means purity.

Black is the dark color but in clothing it means elegance.

Quality over price The tension between this two is huge, some consumers will lean towards quality as their number one property in a garment while others don’t care so much and are more focus over the fast fashion and fact that whatever they are purchasing for will only be worn one or twice.

Accessories Ties and bow ties are the key element to make your look stand out use them properly. They send visual cues of your personality and are symbol of status. When purchasing a tie, take under consideration the fabric they are made of, for instance silk is the ultimate fabric to shop for. A man wearing a tie made up of silk material would be labeled as one of affluence and influencer both financially as well as politically. The bow tie is usually restricted to usage at formal events while the long tie can be worn at any occasion. The long tie ranges in dimension from 1 inch to 5 inch by width. Tying the knot of the tie is another fashion and art of its own. A variety of knots named Windsor, Pratt and Four in Hand knot exists

In the following page there is an illustration on how to make a bow tie and how to do a tie.

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23 Chapter 3

Shoes

Watches

Glases

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Styling Fitting in is way overrated in today’s society. Instead you should embrace your personality and let it speak for yourself trough the clothing you wear in a daily basis; that’s the reason why you should be developing your own personal unique style. This is a very important step because is your opportunity to tell the world who you are without having to say a word.

How to achieve the perfect look?

School Day Incorporating a bright color to your outfit is the easiest way to drag attention especially if you are wearing a neutral suit pallet like the guy in the picture. Notice how there’s a harmony in his outfit from head to toe. The combination of neutrals with tan or dark skin can soften your skin tone making you look lighter. In order to attract attention to your face, use darker shades for your tie; this is the occasion you can play with the color or pattern of your tie.

Shoes aren’t a big deal in this occasion, if you are going to be walking around tennis shoes are ideal to complement your outfit.

Date When going out on a date, make sure that your outfit matches the impression you want to make; looks can buy you a second date.

Elegant and sleek are your two new best friends. Knowing how to pull these two items together can define you as an individual. Play dress up while shopping or at home using what you own in your closet. That’s the most and creative process to come up with new outfits that work well each other. Keep the balance and ease of your outfit.

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Interview Your look is what’s trying to sell you, so make sure to apply all the things we have talk about to get under the radar and accomplish your goal of getting hired. Confidence is the ultimate key to everything.

Garment Fit In conclusion, fit is influenced by fashion trends and styles. We have seen how over the years men’s clothing has evolved do to the circumstances of the era

and events in history that shaped the clothing evolution. Take under consideration fabrics, patterns, and colors to achieve the perfect look you want to achieve. Know your measurements, and have fun playing dress up from time to time. Clothes are the nonverbal communication that tell others who we are even when we are not trying.

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References

Survey of Historic costume Fifth Edition by Phyllis G. Tortora and Keith Eubank 2010

Apparel Design 1650 for merchandising majors and Textiles 2650 notes were utilized for most of the information provided in this manual.

http://www.suitshack.com/skin1/fabric.pdf