buy rollei 1

[email protected] http://www.rolleirepairs.com

1

FINDING YOUR ROLLEIFLEX TLR, 1 A � Which Rolleiflex model should you buy?

� Price � Best optics

� Testing � Best Mechanically � Most Reliable � Most collectable � Best re-sale value � Models to avoid

Harry Fleenor


2 Which Rolleiflex model should you buy?

Transport Mechanism The Rolleiflex TLRs, including Rolleiflex 2.8F, 3.5F, Rolleiflex 2.8E-3, 2.8E-2, 2.8E, 2.8D, 2.8C, , 2.8B, 2.8A, Rolleiflex 3.5E-3, 3.5E-2, 3.5E, 3.5, Automat X, 3.5 Automat MX, Automat MX E-V, Tele Rolleiflex and Wide-Angle Rolleiflex, have basically the same transport mechanism. This is very well designed and can remain reliable for decades. The main bearing has grooves for lubricant. The main bearing also holds 2 spring loaded plastic pins that help to smoothen the winding and increase the life of the bearing. Using this mechanism you transport the film and simultaneously cock the shutter by pulling out the wind handle and turning it in a clockwise direction until it stops. It will automatically stop on the first frame. You then turn the wind crank counterclockwise until it stops. In this position it will be locked until you fire the shutter. This prevents accidental double exposure. Then you can wind to the next frame etc. These models (except the 2.8A, 2.8C***) also have double exposure capability. Shutter *** Rolleiflex 2.8F, 3.5F, Rolleiflex 2.8E-3, 2.8E-2, 2.8E, 2.8D, 2.8C, , 2.8B, have the same shutter. Rolleiflex 3.5E-3, 3.5E-2, 3.5E, 3.5, Automat X, 3.5 Automat MX, Automat MX E-V, have the same shutter. The Rolleicord transport mechanism is very reliable. The Rolleiflex T was made for the amateur market and is not built for heavy use. Shutter speed selection These models have B, 1 sec to 1/500 sec. with self timers. Rolleiflex 2.8F, 3.5F, Rolleiflex 2.8E-3, 2.8E-2, 2.8E, 2.8D, 2.8C, , 2.8B, Rolleiflex 3.5E-3, 3.5E-2, 3.5E, 3.5, Automat X, 3.5 Automat MX, Automat MX E-V, Tele Rolleiflex and Wide-Angle Rolleiflex Rolleikin II 35mm adaptor With these models also you can use 35mm film using a Rolleikin II kit and adjusting the pressure plate.


3 EVS coupling The Rolleiflex Automat starting from serial #1.464.000 has the EVS coupling system. The shutter speed and aperture settings lock on an EVS setting. On the MX-EVS type 1 (serial number 1464000 to 149999) you can disengage the interlocking shutter and aperture control wheel only by continuously pressing the center button on the aperture control. The Rolleiflex 2.8D uses this same system. Starting with the MX-EVS type 2 the EVS coupling can be locked or unlocked by turning the center button on the aperture control wheel 90 degrees. The E models, Tele and Wide also use this EVS system. The Rolleiflex 3.5F type 1 and 2 (serial #2200000 to 2249999) have cross coupling of the shutter and aperture controls that are coupled by a complex planetary gearing system. Some people like this system. However, I’ve found that most have trouble adapting to using it. Rollei simplified these controls on the next model (starting with serial #2250000). The rest of the 3.5F models and the 2.8F models do not have these EVS interlocks. However, the shutter and aperture controls are connected to the meter follow pointer needle. Removable hood Rolleiflex 2.8F, 3.5F, Rolleiflex 2.8E-3, 2.8E-2, Rolleiflex 3.5E-3, 3.5E-2, Tele Rolleiflex and Wide-Angle Rolleiflex have removable hood capability and you can easily interchange viewfinders and screens. The Rolleicord Vb and the Rolleiflex T model 2 also have removable hood capability. The C and D models have plastic shutter release locks and sync. Connector locks. These break easily and are not replaceable because these parts are no longer available. One neat feature on the C and D is the adjustable viewfinder magnifier. It will move up from the normal focusing position to compensate for far-sighted eyes.


4 Price

For the best price you are looking at the Rolleiflex Automats made in the early 1950s or the Rolleicords made at the same time or the B, C, D or T. However for the best *value* I recommend a Rolleiflex F model or one of the Es. These models may cost a little more, however they are consistently high quality and reliable. You’ll enjoy using these models and they have a good re sale value. Also the maintenance costs will be a lower percentage of the value.

Optics

There is an ongoing debate among Rollei users as to which is better, Schneider lenses of Zeiss lenses? Glass, when it is made, does not always come out the same from element to element even if they are the same formula made side by side. Even if it is designed by computer as it is now, it still takes a technician to choose the best elements and to put together a set. Rollei had a very tight tolerance in the lens quality that they accepted. The Rollei factory was very picky, especially from the 1950s forward. I have noticed less variation in lens quality in lenses made after 1950 than those made in the 1940s. All these lenses fall into a very tight tolerance and they are all basically very high quality. However there is still some variation. I have found lenses that were soft and had obviously escaped the quality control. The quality of the lens depends on the technician that puts it together. All of these lenses will be very good. However some are exceptional and some are below average. I had a friend ask me to test a Rolleiflex 3.5F for him, especially the lens quality. I examined it and advised him that this particular lens looked soft. I told him not to buy it. However, he insisted on buying it anyway. So I told him to offer a lower price. He bought it and paid full price. Then, after he used it for a while, he came back to me and asked me to adjust it so that is sharper. I told him that this one is just a soft lens and there is nothing that I can do. A few years later, after Rollei of America folded, I went into business and needed a photo for my business card. I had my photo taken with this same camera and it looked fine on the card. This just shows that even a poor Rollei lens is still high quality comparing to what else is out there.


5 Testing

Testing the lens

When you first get your Rolleiflex you want to test it before your trial period runs out, in case you want to return it. So you may not have time to have the focus adjusted and a new screen installed. The best test for lens quality is to take a roll of transparency film and take some photos. The best subject is several objects at different distances. If you take a photo with objects at different distances you will find something in the photo that is the sharpest. This will give you an idea about the potential quality that you can expect from that lens when it is adjusted. If you have taken photos with a high quality camera before, you will already know what you are looking for in the photo. If you see it in this sharpest spot then you have camera that you can put into shape for photography. If this sharpest spot doesn’t meet your expectation, you need to send that one back and keep looking. If you don’t have experience with high quality photography and you don’t know how to tell if this is a lens that you want from the photo, I will be happy to examine it in the Rollei collimator. However the final judge of lens quality is in the photos.

Testing the shutter

Usually the first speed that indicates that your shutter needs help is one second. You can test the shutter by firing one second. It usually takes approximately one second to say “one thousand one”. You will hear and see if the shutter is slower or faster. Test the shutter with the focus at infinity and three feet. Notice if the shutter is working normally or it hanging up or not firing. Testing the transport Wind the transport handle and check it for stiffness. After several decades the lubricants evaporate and it may need and overhaul. Next, test it with film. You can use the same roll of film to test the transport on several Rolleiflex TLRs by taping the film to the paper on both ends. This way you can run it back and forth. Look for stiffness, skipping frames, not stopping at #1 or any other abnormality.


6 Note: Be sure to feed the film between the film feeler rollers when loading.

Checking overall

Is it in a Case? Rolleiflex TLRs that I receive for repairs with a case are cleaner, have less external wear and are usually in better mechanical condition. Is the body clean, without dents, discoloration, fungi, smoke smell, peeling leather or leatherette? Is the viewfinder screen clean and bright? Does the hood open smoothly? Best mechanically, The best, Rolleiflex TLRs, mechanically are the Automats made in the early 1950s the X, MX and MX-EVS, the E model, the F models and the Wide and Tele with the exception of the first 2 models of the Rolleiflex 3.5F that had the “gear shutter”. All of these are basically the same mechanically with minor differences in the controls and metering for the E and F. They all have the same robust transport mechanism and the focusing mechanisms work the same. The Rolleicord models are also very reliable with their simple mechanics. Most reliable Rolleiflex TLRs, mechanically are the Automats made in the early 1950s the X, MX and MX-EVS, the E model, the F models and the Wide and Tele with the exception of the first 2 models of the Rolleiflex 3.5F that had the “gear shutter”. are also the most reliable because of their tough mechanics. Reliability can be increased in any model by storing properly, cleaning and TLC. Most collectable The most collectable Rolleiflex is probably the Rollei-Wide because of the limited number made. Next is the newest version of the Rolleiflex 2.8F with a Zeiss Planar lens and a “whiteface”. The “whiteface” is a designation created by collectors because of the extra room on the nameplate below the taking lens that the serial number is printed on. Collectors also like the Rolleiflex 3.5F with a 6 element Zeiss Planar lens. I have seen extremely sharp 6 element lenses and some that were just average. See above under Optics. The Rolleicord Vb is also bringing respectable prices. Collectors only want the best examples of these in “like new” condition.


7 If you are considering your Rolleiflex purchase as an investment you might want to purchase one of these models and keep it in “like new” condition. Models to avoid The number one on this list is the Rolleimagics, both I and II. I would also avoid any Rolleiflex made before 1950 if you want to use it for Photography. These older cameras are fun to collect as I have some of these models myself for decoration purposes only. Also I would avoid Baby Rollei 4x4. However these models may be fun to collect but I do not service them. Other models, What about the models that didn’t fit in any of the above categories? Well, the new models, GX, FX etc. are fine and have the advantage of TTL metering and HFT coating on the lenses. However the GX and FX were built on either the Rolleicord or the T body. I’ve heard both. These don’t have the film feeler mechanism and the transport mechanism is modified from the original Rolleiflex mechanism. The shutter release tends to be a little stiff because you are pushing a switch that turns on the meter when you release the shutter. Also these models are quite a bit more expensive. Still, these are great examples of the Rolleiflex quality and any Rollei user will be happy with the lens quality. The Rolleiflex B seems to be fairly rare, but was made before Rollei “hit its stride” in consistent quality production with the E models. The earlier models of the Rolleicord have fewer features than the Rolleicord Vb and have fixed instead of removable hoods.


8 Rolleiflex TLR 220 Modifications These modifications are possible on , Rolleiflex TLRs, (including Rolleiflex 2.8F, 3.5F, Rolleiflex 2.8E-3, 2.8E-2, 2.8E, 2.8D, 2.8C, , 2.8B, 2.8A, Rolleiflex 3.5E-3, 3.5E-2, 3.5E, 3.5, Automat X, 3.5 Automat MX, Automat MX E-V, Tele Rolleiflex and the Wide-Angle Rolleiflex). Rollei originally offered 2 different 220 modifications. #1) A switch by the strap lug. To use 220 film you expose the first 12 then push the switch foreword. This returns the counter to zero. Then you advance to #1 the second time and expose the second 12. I offer this modification for $124.-- plus any repairs needed to the transport mechanism. #2) A switch by the wind handle with the numbers 12/24 on it. To use 220 film, start with the number "24" on the top. After you expose the first 12 the advance will not work until you flip the switch so that the number "12" is on the top. Then you advance to #1 the second time and expose the second 12. Parts for this modification are no longer available.


9

Date your Rollei TLR Guide

Rolleiflex TLR models with Fixed Focusing Hood

Rollei TLR Model Serial Numbers Bay size Introduced Rolleiflex 3.5 X Synch 1100000-1169999 I 1950 Rolleiflex 3.5 M-X Synch 1200000-1427999 I 1951 Rolleiflex 3.5 M-X E-V 1428000-1499999 I 1954 1700000-1737911 I 1954 Rolleiflex 3.5E Exp. Meter 1740000-1869000 II 1956 Rolleiflex 2.8A 2.8 Tessar X - MX 1101000-1204999 Spec Hood 1950 Rolleiflex 2.8B 2.8 Biometer 1204000-1260000 III 1951 Rolleiflex 2.8C 2.8 Planar 1260350-1299999 III 1953 2.8 Xenotar 1444000-1475405 III 1953 Rolleiflex 2.8D E-V Scale 1600000-1620999 III 1955 Rolleiflex 2.8E Exp. Meter 1621000-1665999 III 1956 Rolleicord III X SYNCH 1137000-1344051 I 1950 Rolleicord IV M-X Synch 1344051-1390999 I 1953 Rolleicord V M-X - E-V Scale 1500000-1583999 I 1955 Rolleicord Va 5-format 1584000-1599999 I 1957 1900000-1943999 I 1957 Rolleiflex 4X4 127 film 2000000-2099999 I 1957

Rolleiflex TLR models with Removable Focusing Hood

Rollei TLR Model Serial Numbers Bay size Introduced Rolleiflex 3.5E-2 1st issue 1870000-1872999 II 1959 Rolleiflex 3.5E-2 Xenotar MX EV 2480000-2482999 II 1961 Rolleiflex 3.5E-3 MX EV 2380000-2385034 II 1962 Rolleiflex 2.8E-2 MX EV 2350000-2356999 II 1959 Rolleiflex 2.8E-3 MX EV 2360000-2362024 II 1962 Rolleiflex T Tessar 2100000-......... I 1958 Rolleiflex 3.5F Ring gear shutter 2200000-2229000 II 1959 Rolleiflex 3.5F Ring gear shutter 2230000-2249999 II 1960 Rolleiflex 3.5F Coupled meter 2250000-2815050 II 1961 Tele Rolleiflex 4/0 135mm Sonnar 2300000-2304999 III 1959 Rolleiflex 2.8F Coupled meter 2400000-2452850 III 1960 Rollei Magic 3.5 Xenar 2500000-2534999 II 1960 Wide-Angle Rollei 4.0/55 Distagon 2490000-2493999 IV 1961 Rollei Magic II Auto and Manual 2525000-2547597 II 1962 Rolleicord Vb 3.5 Xenar 2600000-......... I 1962 Rolleiflex 3.5F Coupled meter 2815000-......... II 1969 Rolleiflex 2.8F Coupled meter 2451851-......... III 1969 Tele Rolleiflex 4.0/135 Sonnar 2305000-......... III 1970


10 Need a brighter screen?

The Maxwell screen's fresnel, split image and microprism have a fast "action", so when the focus adjustment is changed you perceive a difference. It seems to *snap* into focus. I stock 2 Maxwell screens.

#1), The Maxwell screen with a grid, split image and a micro prism ring. It is very bright and *snaps* into focus nicely. This screen is great if you have any vision problems, wear glasses or like to use focus aids. This screen is $166.-- plus $34.-- installation. #2), The Maxwell plain Hi-Lux screen with a grid. The Hi-Lux screen, plain with a grid is slightly brighter and the fresnel snaps into focus nicely. This screen is $160.-- plus $34.-- installation. I will give a $24.-- discount on installation of either screen if you have a shutter or transport overhaul done at the same time. Why should you have Harry install your new focusing screen?

-When I install your screen, I also adjust the focus of both the taking lens and the viewfinder. (Other needed focusing mechanism repairs and/or other repairs are extra.)

- When many people are looking for a new screen it is because they are experiencing a focus problem.

- Finding a Rolleiflex that is within factory focusing tolerance is a rare occurrence.

- In most cases, both lenses need to be adjusted.

- There are differences in the focus adjustment among screens. This is true of the original factory screens and non-factory replacement screens.

- To take the fullest advantage of the Rolleiflex optics, the taking lens and the viewfinder should be in precise focus adjustment. This is a lot more likely if the focus is adjusted when the new screen is installed. There are many variables in photography and I wouldn't want to have to compensate for the focus adjustment. (By shooting at f8 or smaller, avoiding close up photos that have limited depth of field etc.)

- The Maxwell screens are easily damaged by mishandling.

- Some replacement screens also need a spacer to compensate for the difference in thickness between the new screen and the old one. This is not a focus adjustment.


11 Cleaning lenses,

Most or the cameras I receive for repair have very dirty lenses and some have what the customer describes as "cleaning marks". There's no such thing as cleaning marks. call them what they are - scratches! They may be very light scratches only penetrating the coating, but they are scratches. How do you keep the lenses clean and avoid scratches?

Practice

Experience is the most important tool in cleaning lenses as it is in anything that requires skill.

Have you seen an optician clean a pair of glasses? He does it quickly and easily. And he gets them sparkling clean. And - no scratches. How does he do that? - Practice, practice, practice. He cleans several pair a day 250 days a year. That is the professional secret! Just practice.

So -- Don't practice on a fine, expensive optic like those found on Rolleis. Practice with some old piece of glass that you won't cry about when those "cleaning marks" appear. An old pair of glasses, a cheap pair of binoculars an old point and shoot camera, or any other worthless piece of glass. Keep practicing until you are consistently successful before cleaning your Rollei lens.

Tools,

You will need some lens cleaner. Any water based lens cleaner is ok. For some stubborn dirt particles you can use some denatured alcohol. Get an air blower. I've found that one of the handiest portable air blowers is an ear syringe you can buy at the local drug store. You can also use an air compressor but be sure there is no oil or water in the air line. You'll need a soft brush. A sable brush is ideal. Also get some soft lens cleaning tissue and Q-tips. The lens tissue sold at camera stores is best for sensitive surfaces such as plastic viewfinder screens.

Technique

First blow off whatever particles you can with the air blower, then use the sable brush. Now all the looser particles are gone and usually this includes the largest ones, the ones that cause scratches.

Rule number one - Be gentle! - Don't scrub or rub or use force in any way to clean a fine optic!

Take a lens cleaning tissue and add some lens cleaner. Wipe the dirt off *gently* in a circular pattern starting from the center of the lens and working your way in a spiraling pattern to the edges. Then take a dry tissue and repeat *gently*. If there is any dirt left try to clean it with a Q-tip *gently*. If there is still some stubborn dirt try alcohol *gently*.


12

Other sources of information.

COLLECTORS GUIDE TO ROLLEI CAMERAS, by ARTHUR EVANS

COMPLETE ROLLEI TLR COLLECTOR’S GUIDE, by Ian Parker

Rollei web links: http://www.rolleirepairs.com/WWWlinks.html

Please contact me with questions or comments at:

Email <[email protected]>

Address Oceanside Camera Repair 909 Aviation Blvd. #4 Manhattan Beach, Ca 90266

Phone: 310 374 6506

http://www.rolleirepairs.com Harry Fleenor has over 40 years experience on Rollei camera repair including 15 years working in the factory service centers of Honeywell and Rollei of America. Repairing Rolleiflex TLRs, (including Rolleiflex 2.8F, 3.5F, Rolleiflex 2.8E-3, 2.8E-2, 2.8E, 2.8D, 2.8C, , 2.8B, 2.8A, Rolleiflex 3.5E-3, 3.5E-2, 3.5E, 3.5, Automat X, 3.5 Automat MX, Automat MX E-V, Tele Rolleiflex, Wide-Angle Rolleiflex, Rolleicord Vb, Va, V, IV, and Rolleiflex T) Rollei SL66, Rollei 35, Rollei SL35, Rollei A110, and E110, and the Rollei SL26. Rollei 35 calibrated to 1.35v or 1.5v battery. Maxwell bright screens installed. 220 switch installed.

buy rollei 1

Documents

removable hood capability

tight tolerance

transport mechanism

lens quality

automats made

evs coupling

taking lens

air blower