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31/03/2013 14:39Build a Variable High Voltage Power Supply

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Posted:Nov 17, 2007

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I needed a variable 0 to 50KV high voltage power supply for my high voltage experiments that wouldn't

break the bank, so I built my own.

With just a few parts from old microwave ovens, TV sets, and an oil burner, you can build an affordable

instrument for whatever you wish to snap,crackle, or pop!

The key component is the voltage multiplier, which I covered in the High Voltage Multiplier instructable.

Build it first, then drop it into this project for a variable output.

Step 1: Theory of Operation

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The diagram shows the supply in the de-energized condition and the case closed.

Mains voltage is applied to the power supply thru a 120 VAC Panel connector. With the case closed,

current passes through a 5 Amp fuse, F1 and through the case safety switch, S1 causing the Ready

indicator, I1 to light when the power switch S2 is placed in the ON position to energize the supply.

At this time, the power supply is NOT ON but in a state of readiness to enegize the high voltage stage.

When pushbutton S3 is pressed, relay K1 energizes and remains energized after S3 is released.

Current passes through Variac, VT1 which adjusts the input voltage to the OBT. The OBT steps up the

input voltage to a maximum of 6,000 VAC. The output of the OBT is fed to the high voltage multiplier,

HVM where it is multiplied to 51,000 VDC output.

To de-energize the supply, place S2 in the OFF position. K1 will de-energize and remove power from

the OBT and HVM and all indicators will extinguish.

The case safety switch and the power contactor are not necessary for this supply to work. I thought the

ability to power on and off by using a pushbutton was cool. Thats all. The second schematic shows them

removed.

Step 2: Gather the parts

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All the parts with the exception of the variac used for voltage control came from my junk collection or

Ebay. Here's the list:

CHASSIS - Texas Instruments TI99 Computer case. Any metal box will do as long as there is enough

room for the parts. An electrical box will do just fine. The computer case had a switch, an AC plug

adaptor, and a removable lid so it was perfect.

F1 - 5 Amp fuse with holder (Radio Shack).

HVM - HV Multiplier - This is a build it yourself part made up of (6) 12KV High Voltage Diodes and (6)

470 picofarad 20KV High Voltage ceramic doorknob capacitors. You can buy all the parts on Ebay. I

have already posted an instructable on this. Just search for High Voltage Multiplier.

I1 - READY Indicator - GREEN 120 volt Neon lamp (Radio Shack). An old 120 volt Neon indicator from

a microwave oven is what I used here.

I2 - HV ON Indicator - RED 120 volt Neon lamp (Radio Shack).

K1 - Contactor - 120VAC 10 Amp DPST Relay with a 120VAC coil.

OBT - Oil Burner Transformer salvaged from an old oil burner from a mobile home rated at 120VAC @

2.25 Amps on the input and 6Kv 20Ma on the output. The single pole type was used here. This can be

purchased from a burner service company for about $65.00

S1 - SPST N.O. Cherry Microswitch for case safety.

S2 - DPST Toggle or rocker switch for power on.

S3 - SPST N.O. 120VAC Pushbutton switch.

VT1 - A variac was purchased for $60 from an electrical supply house. Any dimmer that can handle

inductive loads up to 5 amps will work. The variac can control 2.5 amps. Just enough for the OBT.

MISC - You will need some wire lugs and various colors of wire scavenged from power cords for the

internal wiring.

Step 3: Lay out the chassis

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If your box has stuff in it, gut it. Take everything out of it except essential parts. I kept the power switch

and the AC Adaptor. Everything else, GONE!

If your box has HANDSIZED holes in it, patch em. You don't want little ones (or a nosey neighbor)

sticking their paw in the box with power on. Mine needed a cover for the back and a new face plate

made of sheet aluminum. It would have cost me less to just use an electrical box instead.

Next, layout all the parts in the approximate locations shown giving yourself plenty of room for wiring.

Space is essential in this project because we want to limit the possibility of arcing between high voltage

components.

Drill holes where needed for mounting the parts and secure your parts using whatever hardware you

have for working with sheet metal.

Step 4: Wire the low voltage side

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F14/LNQN/F82EXPUF/F14LNQNF82EXPUF.LARGE.jpg)

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Decide if you are going to include a power contactor and case safety switch. If so, use the firstschematic. If not, then use the second schematic.

Wire the supply starting with the AC connector, fuse holder, switches, variac and power contactor.

Test each stage of your build to make sure your wiring is correct.

Next wire up the OBT and test the range of the variac.

To test the output of the OBT, hold a GROUNDED screwdriver near the OBT output terminal.

If you see an arc, good. Power off the supply and disconnect it from Mains and move to the next step.

Step 5: Complete the build

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Depending on how you built your multiplier, you need to mount it to the chassis so it doesn't move

around. In my case, I made a pair of homemade U shaped wooden mounts and glued the multiplier to

the mounts using contact cement.

When dry, mount the multiplier in the chassis and wire it to the OBT and ground.

For the output, I passed the 50KV lead through the chassis using a 2 inch large rubber stopper as a

grommet and some corona dope to prevent arcing. This worked until I passed the 35KV mark and then it

arced over.

So I bought a screw on PVC plug and passed a 2 inch brass screw through the center, then filled it with

30 minute epoxy and let it cure.

I secured the feed through to the chassis with a piece of threaded PVC pipe to match. I then cut my

50KV lead to length and soldered it to the screw head on the back of my feed through.

I coated the whole assembly with corona dope, let it dry, and tried again. This time I succeeded and got

to the 50KV mark at 100 percent without any arcing

Step 6: Power UP and Test it

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*** WARNING ***

THESE NEXT STEPS ARE DANGEROUS.

Connect the power to the supply and turn on the main power switch. The "Ready" Indicator should light.

Set the voltage to 50 percent and press the HV ON pushbutton.

The HV ON Indicator will light and you will hear a slight hissing sound. This is okay. If you hear any

snaps or arcing, determine where the problem is, shut off the supply, and dope the area. When it dries,

test again.

With a grounded screw driver, bring the tip of the screw driver in close proximity to the output stud andwatch for sparks.

*** WARNING ***


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DO NOT TOUCH THE OUTPUT STUD WITH THE SCREWDRIVER. PERMANENT DAMAGE WILL

RESULT.

If you are confident in your building skills, or hungry for sparks, SLOWLY ramp up the voltage to 100

percent and test again with the screwdriver.

Success will be indicated by the 2 inch long spark that you get from the supply.

*** WARNING ***

DO NOT ATTEMPT TO MEASURE THE OUTPUT OF THIS DEVICE WITHOUT SPECIAL TEST

EQUIPMENT OR THE PROPER SAFETY EQUIPMENT.

*** DANGER DANGER DANGER DANGER DANGER DANGER ***

THE CURRENT PRODUCED BY THIS SUPPLY ALONG WITH THE HIGH VOLTAGE MAKES THIS

DEVICE DANGEROUSLY LETHAL! DO NOT TOUCH THE HIGH VOLTAGE STUD DURING

OPERATION. THIS THING WILL KILL YOU! GROUND THE STUD AFTER EACH SHUTDOWN TO

DRAIN ANY REMAINING POTENTIAL.

Step 7: Safety Rules, and Disclaimer

SAFETY FIRST!

ALWAYS wear rubber safety gloves and stand on a rubber safety mat when operating this supply.

ALWAYS wear protective goggles when power is on. Especially if you plan to power a laser with this

unit.

NEVER touch anything or device that is connected to the supply while it is in operation without adequate

protection.

NEVER defeat the safety switch on the case or operate this supply with the lid removed.

DISCONNECT the supply from power before opening or working on it.

FOCUS your attention on what you are doing with this device. Eliminate any distractions or annoyances

in the area where you use this device.

DO NOT ALLOW others to operate or work in the same area of this device without adequate supervision

or safety training.

REMEMBER, Smokey says, only YOU can prevent People Fires!

*** DISCLAIMER ***

You, the builder and user, bear the responsibility for your own safety in building, testing, and using this

supply. By building this device, you acknowledge the risks involved in it's operation and accept those

risks as a result. I will in no way be held responsible for your actions, including your death by this

instrument and you accept these terms by building and using this device.

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1-40 of117

Next (http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Variable-High-Voltage-Power-Supply/?&sort=ACTIVE&limit=40&offset=40#DISCUSS)

corbonzo (/member/corbonzo/) says:

Sorry if this is a stupid thing to ask.but i dont have money for a variac, i was wondering if a 120vaclight dimmer used in houses would work. it says rated for 600 watts which would mean 5 amps right?sooo would that work? a reply would be great!

prini (/member/prini/) says:

oh ok thank you for answering me,alls i needed was a power supply that could power a minimum of400 amps

burningsuntech (/member/burningsuntech/) (author) says:

NOTICEThis device is for sale. If you would likefurther details, please contact me [email protected] BST

prini (/member/prini/) says:

is this really strong ? would this say power a house? im looking for a very strong power supply forsomthing im building wich requires as much power as a house maybe more lol


priniThis is a HIGH VOLTAGE powersupply and cannot be used to powera house which is low voltage (120volts AC). This is also a low currentsupply (20 milliamps) and a houserequires high current (200 Amps).So, no. This will not suit your needs.-BST

garagegenius (/member/garagegenius/) says:

Hey, I'm looking for something on the scaleof 50kv 10 milliamps. would i be able toadjust or modify this to get 10 milliamps?any help would be appreciated

luismasino (/member/luismasino/) says:

Hi, I am needing to build a project of the variable power source 0-40kV can walk, I need if I you cansend information to build the source as you did, since I can not download the pdf, you made me thesource would come very well. please if you can send me information on the value of the componentand the names and designing things. any information will be very welcomehank you very much

Machine (/member/Machine/) says:

I like the quality internal layout, it looks professionally done. A meter on the front panel could be good.

It'd be hard to measure directly the output volts as a high-voltage divider would be needed (more cost,
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11/17



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insulation difficulties).

So a meter calibrated in kV but measuring the output volts at VT1 would be an easier method toindicate final voltage.

wespow1 (/member/wespow1/) says:

i cant seem to get the image up so i'll give you a URL to the burner http://www.ebay.com/itm/OIL-BURNER-TRANSFORMER-110-HIGH-VOLTAGE-10-000-WEIL-MCLAIN-GOLD-BURNER-BASE-

NEW-/120811839341?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c20f25f6d#ht_1543wt_1163

wespow1 (/member/wespow1/) says:

Hello i was wondering if a OIL BURNER TRANSFORMER 110 HIGH VOLTAGE 10,000 WEILMCLAIN GOLD BURNER BASE NEW would work here is a images of the burner

votedthewave (/member/votedthewave/) says:

Is this -50kv or +50kv?

Electronics111 (/member/Electronics111/) says:

+50kv i think

jmaniglia (/member/jmaniglia/) says:

If you connect the leads reverse itwill be -50 as well

janderja (/member/janderja/) says:

Yes it will be -50 wrt the other lead but not -50 wrt earth ground.

How can you make it -50 wrt earth ground? This will allow it to be used as a negative iongenerator.

weldor (/member/weldor/) says:

I have a sneaking suspicion that this could be turned into some sort of a welding device (TIG or Spot).Possibly a device that was both CC and CV capable. Possibly ac/dc with cc/cv for the TIG and somesort of variable control for the spot welder too. all of the above could be assembled in one unit.

Automatic trans fluid is supposed to work well and it has an operating temp of well over 100 deg F.

An aluminum housing with heat sink fins (or even tubes) with air being circulated over/ through them.H2O running through external copper tubes and then into a heat exchanger (auto heater core or accondenser) would improve your coolin effect also. This could lead to more efficient over all operation.

(water cooled TIG torch??)

Great Instructable!!!! please keep it up.

ifrit (/member/ifrit/) says:

will there be enuff power in this powerbox to serge my invisability cloak and will there be enuff powerin this box to channel me for teleport and download me at any power source ?

infinity11 (/member/infinity11/) says:

Is this a positive currant you are producing and if it is how could I make it negative.

aweis (/member/aweis/) says:
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12/17



(/member/aweis/)

May 12, 2011. 5:42 PM Reply (CVC3AXEGNJD0UGS)


May 13, 2011. 9:17 AM Reply (CS9MLSZGNJD156D)

(/member/Moo_cow/)

Jan 10, 2011. 9:54 AM Reply (CS7HACAGINP5AN5)


Jan 11, 2011. 7:19 AM Reply (CXDEK6OGINP9U39)

(/member/ewpwrqlty/)

Dec 20, 2010. 5:55 PM Reply (CHGRAW5GHX7G8SD)


Dec 21, 2010. 5:55 AM Reply (CTSV50RGHYKXLGY)

if i only want a killavolt (1000 volts) from a 70 volt alternating current generator, would i be able to dohat for around 50 dollars?


Aweis,Possibly. As to specifics, I can'tsay. Most likely, you will be using1N4007 diodes for the diodes. Andcaps will be .001ufd 2 KV minimum,but any voltage up to 10Kv will befine.

There has been a lot of questionsconcerning the math I used tofigure out the voltages. So I willrefer you to the link that I foundconcerning Cockroft-WaltonVoltage Multipliers.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cockcroft

And here is a blurb about theoutput voltage characteristics of themultiplier:

http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_3

Good luck in your build.

RA

Moo_cow (/member/Moo_cow/) says:

If I were to take out the multiplier, would if work for 0-6000 volts?anting to use this for part of my science fair but I do not need to go over 6000 volts.


Moo_cow

If you only want 0 to 6000 volts AC,hen the answer is yes.

If you need 0 to 6000 volts DC, thenyou must add a single 12KV Diodeo the output of the transformer.

Good Luck in the science fair.

RA

ewpwrqlty (/member/ewpwrqlty/) says:

I only need a 100-700 VAC variablesupply. Can I modify your design toachieve this goal?


Possibly.

without knowing details like howmuch current you want the deviceo provide and at what voltages, Iwont be able to help.

More info is needed besides "can Imodify your design to achieve thisgoal?"
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13/17




Dec 21, 2010. 8:01 AM Reply (CJT40DSGHYL6OAC)


Dec 31, 2010. 2:55 PM Reply (CNNR2WBGI0TJSYJ)


Dec 28, 2010. 2:21 PM Reply (CBW6I8WGI0TCXJD)

RA


Thanks for your quick response.

The device does not need toprovide any current. I only need toprovide variable voltage potentialsbetween 100-700 VAC. I am

attempting to create a voltagecalibration set for my BMI 8800power disturbance analyzers.

The required voltage (Vrms)calibration levels are:

1. 02. 7.6-8.43. 30.2-33.44. 75.5-83.55. 150-1706. 200-2257. 300-3358. 604-670

I am using a 0-140VAC Variac to

produce the first four levels.

I tried using a hipot tester toproduce the last four levels andwas successful up to level 8. Thehipot unit that I own is a HiptronicsHD5 0-5KV at 5 mA.The impedance of the BMI voltageinput channels during calibration is1.01 Megga Ohm. At approximately500 VAC the leakage current lightwas glowing and the unit wasvibrating and ready to fail onleakage. My Hipot tester wouldneed to have at least a 20 mAoutput capability in order tocomplete the calibration series


On second thought... You wouldneed a 0 to 800 volt Transformerand use the variac to supply thevariable voltage to it.

ith a vernier dial on the Variac,you would have a calibratedsettings range. If you need finersettings, say in millivolts, you wouldneed a twenty-five turn vernierinstead of a ten turn vernier.

Hope this helps.RA


ewpwrqltyYou could use a switch to selectone of two ranges. The first rangewould be what is supplied by theVariac. The second range would beaddition of another step-upransformer connected to the outputof the variac.

ith a Vernier knob attached to the

variac and a volt meter, of course,you could tune the output of thestep-up transformer to theappropriate ranges based on where
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14/17




Dec 11, 2010. 8:51 AM Reply (CD1ZQHCGHFK7HE0)

(/member/CharlesBarret/)

Jun 21, 2010. 9:13 PM Reply (CA5SSM5GAPUWSCE)


Jun 23, 2010. 4:48 PM Reply (CRUWNQPGARZ1FFA)

he vernier is set.

That would give you your rangesand the desired voltages though itmight be a bit cumbersome.

One other possibility would be tocalculate the output of a transformergiven the input voltage and thenumber of turns on the output. If youare adventurous enough, you coulddesign and wind your ownransformer for the desired outputranges beyond the output of thevariac and use a selector switch toselect the output tap for the givenrange you desire.

It takes some doing and a bit ofknowledge of transformers but it canbe done.

Lastly, you could also have aspecial transformer built for thispurpose which would give you allhe ranges based upon which tapyou choose.

There are other methods but I donot build devices for people nor do Ihave the time for these projects as iam currently busy running abusiness.

Good luck. i hope this helps.RA


I need to build a variable AC power sourcefrom 0-700 Vrms for calibrating my BMI8800 power disturbance analyzers. Thereare 8 voltage ranges that the power sourceneeds to provide: 0 Vrms, 7.6-8.4 Vrms,

15.1-16.7Vrms, 30.2-33.4 Vrms, 75.5-83.5Vrms, 150-170 Vrms, 200-225 Vrms, 300-335 Vrms, and 604-670 Vrms.

Do you have any suggestions? Any helpwould be greatly appreciated.

CharlesBarret (/member/CharlesBarret/) says:

Hi, i think that your source cannot supplyhat much current (20milis) because thatdepends on your load resistance.. mmmhow do you know you can hold that muchcurrent in your design? thx..


CharlesBarret Technically true.The problem is with the type ofransformer used in this supply.The specs of the OBT state that itwill supply .02 Amps at 6000 volts.This transformer does have a loadin the form of an air gapapproximately 1 cm in length. Withhe resistivity of air equal toanywhere from 10^8 to 10^9 ohmsper meter then resistivity of a onecm gap is 10^6 to 10^7 ohms.This assumes that the air has not

ionized. (which is the point of anOBT anyway). After ionization ofhe air, the conductivity increasesdramatically to the point of a near
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15/17



(/member/silicacat6/)

Jun 21, 2010. 4:33 PM Reply (C5QDA3DGAPURCN7)

(/member/skeric17/)

May 28, 2010. 6:56 PM Reply (CCQT4S7G9NHGW89)


Jun 10, 2010. 3:00 PM Reply (CZJ2C9MGAA12E45)

(/member/simondodd/)

Feb 16, 2010. 6:47 AM Reply (CHGBZ9BG5KP9KGY)

4(/member/ElectricUmbrella/)

Oct 24, 2009. 2:38 PM Reply (CQECQUSG145JL0R)


Oct 27, 2009. 8:44 AM Reply (CMHENIBG145SWP6)

short circuit. To prevent that frombecoming a dead short, there arecurrent limiting windings built intohe transformer to limit maximumdraw to 20 ma. So, the maximumdraw from this device is limited to20 ma. But if there is a resistiveload placed on this supply, it willbe somewhat less based on Ohmslaw. Hope that explains thespecification. Thanks for thequestion. RA

silicacat6 (/member/silicacat6/) says:

ould you please assemble and sell me a high voltage DC power source? Input either 24 V DC or220VAC, your choice. (I would prefer to use 24V DC input). The max voltage required ~900V andmax current 5A. Name your price, and have a guess at when you could deliver. [email protected]

skeric17 (/member/skeric17/) says:

hello i was wondering if u could please give me a few pointer on making a 0-12v variable powersupply i dont know where to begin thanks for ur time and help=]


I can point you in the direction ofeither the internet or Radio Shackengineering booklets which wouldhave circuits that would work foryou. Do a Google Search for 12voltpower supply schematic. There isons of them out there. Good luckwith your project. RA

simondodd (/member/simondodd/) says:

Great job!! I am thinking of building this with myNST and using it for my Tesla Coil. However all the

plans I have seen for Tesla coils require both the hot and cold output from the NST. Would this be theHV output and the case/ground or would I have to wire it up slightly differently?

Thanks in advance

Simon

ElectricUmbrella (/member/ElectricUmbrella/) says:

Hi, very nice idea, five stars!I don't have an six KV Oil BurnerTransformer, but I do have a five KV NeonSign Transformer. Would that work just aswell?


ElectricUmbrellaYes it will. In fact even AC (mains)passed thru a standard transformer(ie 120VAC in and 120VAC out) willgive you a high voltage based onhe formula in the multiplier design.Thanks for the 5 STARs. enjoy thebuild.

*** Do you have technical questionson electronics, computers, anythingexcept plumbing, and houseelectrical? Burningsuntech mayhave the answers. Just email yourquestions to:[email protected](mailto:[email protected]).

e will let you know. ***
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16/17



(/member/PureAwesomeness/)

Dec 31, 2009. 3:39 PM Reply (CS2ZPCSG3TDVK0O)

9(/member/Dr.Bill/)

Dec 29, 2009. 10:43 AM Reply (CYIFQK9G3KYBX77)

(/member/BobLew/)

Dec 19, 2009. 9:40 AM Reply (C1MTE9IG3E27WFQ)

(/member/PureAwesomeness/)

Nov 27, 2009. 6:51 PM Reply (C37VSLHG2HDXJPN)


Dec 6, 2009. 7:08 AM Reply (CCU3CSJG2L3BZNL)

PureAwesomeness (/member/PureAwesomeness/) says:

Hey, it's okay, I got the parts inime and it turned out fine!

Dr.Bill (/member/Dr.Bill/) says:

Aaaaaahhh! I Like Electricity !

BobLew (/member/BobLew/) says:

what should i do with the other pins?sometimes spark occured between them.especialy some closest pins with ground pin.one of pin closest is also draws purple spray, but never spark

PureAwesomeness (/member/PureAwesomeness/) says:

HELP!

Okay, I'm doing a science project in 8thgrade involving electrohydrodynamichrusters, and I need to know how much allof this costs. I need this stuff in like 3 daysor less. Assuming I can get a crappy TV thatstill has a working screen from Good Will,what will be the cost of everything else?Also, what are the RadioShack ID numbersfor all of the stuff that you say I can get fromRadioShack? I could probably get the restfrom Amazon, which ships in one or twodays. For everything else, if you can, couldyou please give me links to the products?I'm sorry if I'm asking a lot of you, but I'mdesperate, and I'm awful at finding the rightelectric parts via the internet. Can you help

me?

Thanks, PureAwesomeness


PureAwesomeness

Sorry for the late reply.

If you waited till you only had threedays to assemble this project, thenyou set yourself up for failure.

If you intend to do anything in

science or the engineering field, youhave to do your own research likeeveryone else. I cannot give you anyassistance about pricing of parts etc.Thats your problem. Do the work ifyou want the reward. Otherwise youmight consider simpler projects in thefuture.

RA

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