Buddhist Culture

Seon Meditation duringSummer Retreat

Heritage of Korea

Korean Traditional Hanbok, Embodying Distinctive Culture and Sensibilities

Hidden Story

Manjusri BodhisattvaRides a Lion, and Samantabhadraan Elephant

Feaure Stories

Korea’s Hidden Treasure House, Jeolla-do

Korean

Summer 2014

Only winter plums that patiently withstand the cold and snow Hold fragrance in their blossoms.Only practitioners who endure hardship on a meditation cushionUltimately see their true nature. Filling their knapsacks with food to sustain them for three months, Practitioners enter a summer meditation retreat at Seon centers on mountains.Their food is Great Fury to help them conquer themselves,Great Courage to stave off laziness, andGreat Doubt to make them re-examine even their own hwadu.

Text and photography by Yu Dong-yeong

•Photo Essay•

Beautiful FlowersNever Bloom in an Instant

Only winter plums that patiently withstand the cold and snow Hold fragrance in their blossoms.Only practitioners who endure hardship on a meditation cushionUltimately see their true nature. Filling their knapsacks with food to sustain them for three months, Practitioners enter a summer meditation retreat at Seon centers on mountains.Their food is Great Fury to help them conquer themselves,Great Courage to stave off laziness, andGreat Doubt to make them re-examine even their own hwadu.

Published by Cultural Corps of Korean Buddhism 71 Gyeonji-dong (56 Woojeongkuk-ro), Jongno-gu,

Seoul, 110-170, South Korea

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Translated by Golden Lotus Translation and Interpretation Center

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Registration No. 010110-08-2014-094

BUDDHIST CULTURE

02 Cover Story

The Gate to Enlightenment Is Open when One Closes the Mountain Gate and Sits: Seon Meditation during Summer Retreat

06 Hidden Story

Manjusri Bodhisattva Rides a Lion, and Samantabhadra an Elephant

48 Templestay Q&A

Curious about Templestay? Maximize Your Fun with Some Prior Information

HERITAGE OF KOREA

10 Heritage 1

Korean Traditional Hanbok, Embodying Distinctive Culture and Sensibilities 16 Heritage 2

Pansori & Arirang Korean Music that Retells Exciting Stories

FEATURE STORIES

Korea’s Hidden Treasure House, Jeolla-do

22 Temples

Rest in the Beauty of Mountains and Waters Must-See Korean Buddhist Temples of Jeolla-do Province 30 Temple Diary

Staying in a Monastery, One of the Most Tranquil Places Dogapsa in Yeongam 36 Food

The Healthy Taste of Nature

42 Journeys

Worthwhile Island Journeys in Jeolla-do Province This Summer

In the quiet Seon room embraced by deep tranquility, the sound of the bamboo clapper breaks the silence. © Ha Ji-gwon

•Volume3, Number 2•

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•Cover Story•

The Gate to Enlightenment Is Openwhen One Closes the Mountain Gate and Sits: Seon Meditation during Summer Retreat

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Every summer, monastic Seon practitioners in Korea enter a summer retreat. Retreats, angeo in Korean, refer to biannual three-month meditation sessions: in summer (from the 15th day of the 4th lunar month to the 15th day of the 7th lunar month) and in winter (from the 15th day of the 10th lunar month to the 15th day of the 1st lunar month). During retreats, practitioners never exit the mountain gate and only immerse themselves in meditation. Retreats originated from the time of the Buddha when monastics stayed indoors during the three months of the rainy season so as not to harm insects and vegetation. In the midst of the sizzling heat, practitioners confine themselves in Seon rooms and practice noble silence and sitting Seon meditation for more than 10 hours a day. In this way they make a solemn effort to attain enlightenment.

When the scattered mind needs to be composed, the sound to signal the beginning, and end, of a meditation session comes from a jukbi or bamboo clapper. One end of the bamboo clapper is split to make a pretty loud sound. You hold the hand grip in your right hand and strike the split end against the left palm. With eyes half closed, each monastic investigates his own hwadu. In the quiet Seon room embraced by deep tranquility, the sound of the bamboo clapper breaks the silence.

Article by Kim Gyeong-mi Photos by Ha Ji-gwon

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Turning their backs on the secular world, these monastics sit more than 10 hours a day, sitting in orderly lines in the lotus position. Though sweat runs down their foreheads, they maintain their posture.

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Sitting countless hours on a meditation cushion, monks have an uncompromising, silent bout with their hwadu. Beginning from the 3 a.m. Buddhist service, they sit valiantly, only temporarily leaving the Seon room at meal time or to go to the restroom. When they return to their cushions, they will resume another round of battle with themselves.

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•Hidden Story•

Strong Supporters of the Buddha,

Manjusri Bodhisattva Rides a Lion,

and Samantabhadra an Elephant

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Bodhisattvas Sacrifice Themselves to HelpOthers

While philosophy is the desire for knowledge, religion is the pursuit of happiness. In this sense, religion is “the history of mankind discoursing on happiness.” There are ways for human beings to be happy, and there are those who are happy to sacrifice themselves to help others and to purify society. They are bodhisattvas.

Mahayana Buddhism presents Manjusri Bodhisattva and Samantabhadra Bodhisattva as the two core supporters of the Sakyamuni Buddha. Based on wisdom and action, they tirelessly work to make the world beautiful. And through this, they spread the teachings of the Buddha and save the world from the corrupting influences of human desire.

Symbol of Wisdom, Manjusri Bodhisattva

Manjusri Bodhisattva is the one who helps others with his clear judgment and wisdom. Manjusri became a monk when he was young, so he is often depicted as a child monk. In the wisdom of Manjusri is the untainted innocence of a child.

There are many important things in this world. However, would not the two most fundamental ones be “judgment and wisdom?” Material things are important, but a pure spirit, in the sense that it can bring economic benefit as well, exceeds the value of material things. It is only natural that Manjusri's wisdom is treasured above all as it transcends worldly knowledge and leads to enlightenment.

Indians also highly valued judgment and wisdom. In particular, as clear judgment removes confusion and makes one feel refreshed, Manjusri was associated with freshness. Accordingly, Manjusri wears a symbolic “fresh” blue costume. And, in the sense that his clear judgment cuts through any issue like a sharp knife, Manjusri holds the flaming sword of wisdom.

In Mahayana Buddhism, there are enlightened entities called “bodhisattvas” who sacrifice themselves to make the world beautiful. Of these, two of the more well-known are Manjusri and Samantabhadra who assist the Sakyamuni Buddha. Manjusri represents wisdom and is often depicted riding a blue lion. Samantabhadra represents practice and takes the form of a resolute bodhisattva of action mounted on a white elephant. Let’s explore the world of Mahayana Buddhist symbols and see what they have to tell.

Article by Ven. Ja-hyeon Illustrated by Kim Jin-yi

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The Lion, a Clever and Imposing Animal

A Buddhist parable says, “If one throws a stone to a dog, the dog chases the stone. However, if one throws a stone to a lion, the lion will attack the thrower.” Is the dog so stupid as to chase stones? It seems absurd at first.

It is extremely hot in India, and the environment is not well suited for dogs that have under-developed sweat glands. Indian dogs that evolved in this heat became lazy and stupid and not very active. It is for this reason that, in Indian parables, dogs always appear stupid. On the contrary, lions are depicted as clever and imposing and hunt in groups with well-evolved tactics. Therefore, in the minds of Indians, dogs and lions represent opposites.

Manjusri, who represents wisdom, rides a blue lion. Based on the common faculty of wisdom, a blue lion is associated with Manjusri. Through these representations of Manjusri, Buddhism extols wisdom. And it is hoped that the fruits of wisdom―achievement, comfort, and the ultimate happiness called enlightenment―will be attained.

Resolute Practice, Samantabhadra

Right knowledge shines most beautifully when it is accompanied with practice. Knowledge without practice is empty, as though returning empty-handed from a treasure hunt. That is why Buddhism emphasizes the will to practice. This is symbolized in Samantabhadra Bodhisattva.

The animal that symbolizes Samantabhadra is a white elephant with six tusks. This is the animal that appeared in Buddha's mother's dream on the night he was conceived. Elephants have high intelligence and have lived alongside mankind for ages, eventually becoming a mode of transportation for the nobility. In Indian mythology, white elephants, through their purity of color, became the leaders of the elephants, and white elephants with six tusks were the supreme leaders.

Through these representations of Manjusri, Buddhism extols wisdom. And it is hoped that the fruits of wisdom ―achievement, comfort, and the ultimate happiness called enlightenment ―will be attained.

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An elephant is wise and simple-hearted as well. Therefore, it is an appropriate symbol for Samantabhadra, and he is often depicted riding a white elephant with six tusks. In short, Manjusri sits to the left of Buddha on a blue lion and Samantabhadra sits to his right on an elephant, and together they help him propagate Buddhist doctrine and truth to create the ideal Mahayana society.

The Symbolism of Blue and White

The symmetrical structure of Manjusri (blue) and Samantabhadra (white) is a representation of Mahayana Buddhism symbolizing wisdom and practice. In East Asia, however, this also represents the perfection of mutually supplementary colors. The colors black and white or red and blue are frequently considered opposites, but at the same time, they supplement each other’s weaknesses. That is because, in the East Asian tradition, the concept of “opposite” does not only mean opposite; it also implies mutual supplementation. This can be more easily comprehended if you look at the taegeuk pattern on the Korean flag.

In East Asia, in addition to black and white or red and blue, people sometimes place blue and white together. Based on this cultural foundation, there are group sports competitions called “blue – white battles” in East Asian countries.

Such color opposites are based on the yin-yang theory presented in the Book of Changes. However, the blue – white combination is a concept of opposition based on the theory of the “five elements.” In other words, in the East Asian tradition, there are two separate perspectives towards colors that originate from different sources. Having said this, Manjusri (blue) and Samantabhadra (white) are harmonious ideal personalities in Mahayana Buddhism that also have meaning in the context of the East Asian tradition.

Mahayana Buddhism presents Manjusri Bodhisattva and Samantabhadra Bodhisattva as the two core supporters of the Sakyamuni Buddha. Based on wisdom and action, they tirelessly work to make the world beautiful.

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•Heritage 1•

Korean Traditional Hanbok, Embodying Distinctive

Culture and Sensibilities

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Hanbok is a culmination of careful design and elegant artistry. The upper class wore shirts with long, wide sleeves, while those engaged in manual work wore short-sleeved shirts. Hanbok garments highlight the magnificent balance of straight and curved lines; combinations of colors reveal excellent artistic perception. “The most difficult part of recreating traditional hanbok is securing the fabrics, many of which no longer exist,” hanbok designer Kim In-ja says. Traditional attire embodies the life and spirit of the wearer, preserved over a long period of time. Kim painstakingly works to recreate traditional Korean hanbok because she knows it reflects the essence of Korean culture.“I have been making hanbok for more than 30 years. I got interested in old styles as I worked on contemporary hanbok for many years. I wanted to know how it began, what form it took initially and how it developed into today’s style. I wanted to know hanbok’s origin and the history of its evolution,” Kim says. Her curiosity immediately turned to action. She sought help from the late Jeong Jeong-wan, who held the status of Chimseonjang, Master Artisan of Traditional Clothing (Important Intangible Cultural Property No. 89), and came to learn traditional sewing techniques from her. Kim also attempted to recreate traditional garments by observing relics on display at museums and applying old sewing techniques. Kim believes that such recreations are a difficult undertaking, yet somebody should do it, despite the great challenges. Kim remains fully dedicated to this traditional art, and her central belief is that today’s clothes cannot be properly made without knowledge of traditional clothing. That is why Kim continues to create elegant, refined and beautiful hanbok that could last for generations to come. Tel. +82-2-535-4333

Hanbok, the traditional Korean dress, reflects the unique culture and sensibilities of Koreans. Fabrics were chosen in accordance with the seasons, which also led to different sewing techniques. Hanbok’s natural colors are of a class unmatched by synthetic dyes. Hanbok worn for ceremonies or rites of passage have important meaning. For example, a range of hanbok were designed and worn for celebrating a new birth and the baby’s 100-day celebration and first birthday. On a bride’s wedding day, she wore a green blouse and red skirt, as well as a specially designed ceremonial coat. In Korea, these garments have long been believed to be auspicious and effective in preventing misfortune.

Article by Choe Seon-hui Photos by Ha Ji-gwon

Knowledge of Traditional Clothes Is Essential for Creating Better ClothesKim In-ja, Hanbok Designer

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Hanbok for Women •Hanbok for women consists of a jeogori (basic upper garment) and a chima (a wrap-around skirt). For everyday activities, women wore either a single-layered, double-layered or padded chima. There were also long ceremonial skirts such as a seuran chima and a daeran chima. Female hanbok have gone through several major changes, including the shortened length of the jeogori and wider skirt widths.

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First Birthday Hanbok •From birth until their 100-day celebration, Korean babies wear pure white to symbolize their purity and innocence. These clothes are known as baenaet jeogori. For the celebration of their first birthday, Korean parents prepare very colorful clothes and a belt with a ‘lucky’ pouch, expressing their wish for the baby’s happiness and health. It was believed that a colorful jeogori with five different colors could protect children from danger.

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Hanbok for Men •The basic components for men’s hanbok are jeogori and baji (pants). Jokki, a type of vest, is also worn between the jeogori and the magoja, an outer jacket. A durumagi overcoat completed the ensemble. During the summer, lightweight fabrics like ramie cloth are used for single-layered pants (goui), shirts (jeoksam), vests and overcoats.

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Bangryeongpo (Restored Relic of General Lee Eung-hae) •General Lee Eung-hae (1547-1626), a military official of the Joseon Dynasty, served as chief of the army in charge of southern Jeolla-do Province in 1613. When the relocation of his tomb was begun in 2002, a number of his garments were also found. Among them, a garment called a bangryeongpo, worn by military officials, had shorter sleeves for freer movement by the wearer. Another characteristic of its sleeves was enhanced functionality as they were removable.

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Pansori & Arirang Korean Music that Retells Exciting Stories

•Heritage 2•

Article by Lee Jeon-hee, Cultural critic Illustrated by Ahn Jae-sun

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Traditional Solo Opera, Pansori

Love, love, my loveAhhah Doong-doong, you’re my love.If you die, please come again as white, red, spring flowers.I would die too, only to become a butterfly,Flying around you, bright spring flowers.I would be dancing with you in my arms,And you would know it’s me.• Love Song from Pansori Chunhyangjeon •

Pansori is a Korean word, meaning “songs sung at a playground where many people gather.” However, they are not only songs. Rather, Pansori is a multi-faceted art consisting of chang (songs), aniri (dialogues), and neoreumsae (gestures) performed by one sorikkun (a singer) in tune with the rhythm of one gosu (a drummer). One more important constituent that should not be ignored is the audience reaction. They add to the amusement with their interjections (chuimsae), such as “eolssigu (yippee).”

Pansori dates back to pannoreum (outdoor performances) performed by clowns in the Silla Dynasty. Over time it has been influenced

In 1997, UNESCO established a program called the “Proclamation of Masterpieces of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity.” This was done to take the initiative in preserving various intangible world cultural heritages. In doing so, it also tried to raise the level of recognition of cultural diversity and cultivate a better understanding of other cultures. As a result, as many as 282 intangible cultural heritages of humanity in 93 countries have now been officially inscribed. Korea claims 16 of these intangible cultural heritages, those being: the Royal Ancestral Ritual at the Jongmyo Shrine and its music, the Pansori Epic Chant, the Gangneung Danoje Festival, the Cheoyongmu Dance, the Ganggangsullae Folk Dance, the Jeju Chilmeoridang Yeongdeunggut, Namsadang Nori, Yeongsanjae, Daemokjang (traditional wooden architecture), Falconry, Gagok (lyric song cycles accompanied by an orchestra), Jultagi (tightrope walking), Taekkyeon (a traditional Korean martial art), Weaving of Mosi (fine ramie cloth) in the Hansan region, the Korean folksong “Arirang,” and Gimjang (seasonal gimchi making).

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Arirang, a Distinctly KoreanFolk Song

Arirang Arirang Arariyo. You climb over the hill of Arirang. My love leaves me, and he has sore feet before he goes 10 ri. • Gyeonggi Arirang •

Look at me, look at me, please look at me. Look at me as if I were a flower in the depth of winter.Ariarirang Sseurisseurirang Arariga NanneYou climb over the hill of Arirang.• Miryang Arirang •

Ariarirang Sseurisseurirang Arariga NanneArirang hmm-mm-mm Arariga NanneWhat a hill Mungyeong Saejae is.Winding winding winding, my tear drops.• Jindo Arirang •

by shamanic songs like “Baebaeng-i-gut” (an epic narrative performance of the story of Baebaeng-i, mixed with songs, dialogues and gestures performed by one sorikkun, a singer, to the accompaniment of janggu), and mask plays such as Sandaenoreum (a mask dance originating in the regions of Seoul and Gyeonggi Province). The current form of Pansori appeared in the mid-Joseon period. The most popular stories in literature of the time, such as Chunhyangga, Simcheongga, Sugungga, Heungboga, were adapted to Pansori. Pansori describes the lives of people so realistically that it is loved by people from all walks of life.

In Pansori, all the human emotions, such as joy, anger, sorrow and pleasure, are expressed, by pushing, pulling, closing, and relieving sound to the accompaniment of a single drummer. The taste and color of the sound vary from region to region in the process of transmission. Loud, deep, and resounding voices are characteristic of Dongpyeonje (the sound of northeastern Jeolla-do), while Seopyeonje (the sound of southwestern Jeolla-do) is characteristically fine and delicate. Junggoje, the sound of Gyeonggi-do and Chungcheong-do, are rather simple.

Pansori was selected as a “Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity” by UNESCO in 1997 in recognition of its creativity and uniqueness as the essence of Korean culture, and also because it highlights the virtues of the Korean language and integrates aspects of other genres to create a high-quality musical play.

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Arirang is a song of joy, anger, sorrow, and pleasure, expressing all aspects of life, love and parting in particular.

Arirang does not exist only as a song. A movie titled “Arirang” was made in 1926 that depicted the spirit of Arirang as a national symbol. This silent movie was written and directed by Na Un-gyu in the early years of the Korean movie industry and was the second film produced by Joseon Kinema Productions. More recently, the Arirang theme has appeared in a variety of artistic genres such as the song “Arirang Rhapsody,” the play “Arirang Fantasy,” and there is now even an “Arirang Broadcasting Company.” Arirang songs are still evolving, as the song “Homage to Korea,” a new arrangement of Arirang, proves. This is the music Korean figure skater Yuna Kim performed to in the 2011 World Figure Skating Championship.

Anyone can create their own beautiful version of Arirang to tell their own story using the refrain of “Arirang Arariyo.” That is how Arirang has remained one of the most beloved of Korean folk songs for so long, and it is still evolving. For its broad appeal and diversity, Arirang was inscribed on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage List on Dec. 5, 2012.

All Koreans know Arirang, and can sing Arirang songs. But Arirang doesn’t refer to one specific version of a typical Korean folk song. The meaning of the word “Arirang” is interpreted in different ways. In fact, Arirang is a general term for all kinds of songs with refrains containing “Arirang” or “Arari Arariyo.” People sing their own versions of Arirang, and it arouses the same sentiment among Koreans. Arirang is a symbolic song for Koreans, sometimes arousing even deeper patriotism than the national anthem, especially during the Japanese colonial era, or for people who were exiled to or immigrated to other countries.

Arirang is a song of joy, anger, sorrow, and pleasure, expressing all aspects of life, love and parting in particular. It is said to have originated in Jeongseon, Gangwon-do Province, around 600 years ago. It was not written by one person, nor was it a song of any specific region. Arirang embraced the joys and sorrows of the people, spreading nationwide to the regions of Miryang, Jindo, and Gyeonggi-do, and became the national song. Many varieties and versions of Arirang were created at different times and in different regions, and the number of Arirang songs currently in existence are up to 60 kinds and 3,600 songs. The most famous and well-known version is the Gyeonggi Arirang, or Sin-Arirang, which is 130 years old.

SeoulGangwon-do

Jeolla-do

Jeju-do

Chungcheong-do

Gyeonggi-do

Gyeongsang-do

Chapter 1.Temples for a great summer trip in Jeolla-do Province

Chapter 2.A very special night at Dogapsa Temple in Yeongam

Chapter 3.Healthy temple food by Ven. Mujin at Beomnimsa Temple in Gwangju

Chapter 4. Worthwhile Island Journeys in Jeolla-do Province This Summer

Feature Stories

Enjoy Summertime

Korea’s Hidden Treasure House, Jeolla-do

in the Mountains or on the Water

Jeolla-do Province in Korea is a very

special place. Embracing the magnificent

mountains of Mt. Jiri and the beautiful

Seomjin River, the superb landscape of

this province was praised by Confucian

scholars in their poetry, art, music and

literature, leaving behind a colorful array

of cultural heritage. It is a home for the

arts where scholars expressed their love

for the arts and is equally renowned for

its tasty food where Koreans’ culinary flare

is alive. One should appreciate Korea’s

national treasures housed at Hwaeomsa

Temple, often called the cradle of Buddhist

culture, or to walk through the beautiful

spruce forest at Naesosa, a humble, ancient

temple located in Buan. You can also create

your own special memories through a

Templestay program which lets you stay

overnight at a peaceful mountain temple,

or you can embark on a trip to exquisite

islands, big or small, in the West Sea and

South Sea. Travel to Jeolla-do and let its

mountains and waters inspire you.

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•Chapter1. Temples

Rest in the Beauty of Mountains and Waters

Korea’s Jeolla-do Province has some

of the most beautiful natural scenery

in the country. The region flowers

first in spring with exquisite yellow

cornelian and pink cherry blossoms.

In the summer, the cool valleys of

dense greenery offer escape from

the heat, while the countryside is

painted maple-tree red in the fall.

And in winter, the pure-white snowy

landscape also welcomes visitors.

Regardless of the season, Jeolla-do

Province hosts a never-ending stream

of visitors all year round. In short,

Jeolla-do seems to lack for nothing.

It has an abundance of beautiful

mountains, lakes and rivers; its people

are warm and generous, and the local

food is delicious. Here we introduce

some of the most beautiful temples in

Jeolla-do Province.

Must-See Korean Buddhist Temples of Jeolla-do Province

Article by Kim Gyeong-mi Photos by Ha Ji-gwon

01 Beauty without Ostentation, Naesosa Temple of Buan

While displaying the dignity and aesthetics of

traditional Korean Buddhist temples, Naesosa Temple (Buan, Jeollabuk-do) flaunts its splendid beauty starting at the temple entrance. Upon visiting the lush surroundings of Naesosa, one’s heart skips a beat at the first sight of the 500-meter path that leads uphill through the spruce forest. Stretching up toward the sky, this trail that connects the ticketing office to the central temple grounds is one of the most beloved in Korea.

Stepping onto the temple grounds from the forest path, one can immerse oneself in the palpable tranquility that can only be found in ancient 1,000-year-old temples. The most important temple treasures to be found here are the sacred 1,000-year-old dangsan tree (guardian tree of the town) and the double-layered eaves of Seolseon-dang Hall, where monks and lay Buddhists practice. Another treasure of the temple is its bronze bell (Goryeo Dynasty, Korean Treasure No.272), which displays a lotus motif on its striking point and a Buddha triad engraved on the bell's body.

The most treasured jewel of the temple is the carved floral latticework doors of the Main Buddha Hall (Korean National Treasure No.291). Originally painted in the traditional

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Upon visiting the lush

surroundings of Naesosa,

one’s heart skips a beat

at the first sight of the

500-meter path that

leads uphill through the

spruce forest. Stretching

up toward the sky, this trail

that connects the ticketing

office to the central temple

grounds is one of the most

beloved in Korea.

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The carved floral latticework doors of Naesosa’s Main Buddha Hall reveal hundreds of chrysanthemum, lotus and peony flower petals in interconnected patterns.

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multicolored paintwork of dancheong, the windows now reveal a natural wooden hue, the colors having washed away and faded over time. Covering the front eight door panels are hundreds of chrysanthemum, lotus and peony petals in quilt-like sequential patterns of “relievo decoratif ” (decorative relief). Looking upon the grace and beauty of the carvings is as if staring into an infinite sea of flowers. The lines of the eaves cut across the sky delightfully. The Main Buddha Hall, built using only wooden joints without a single nail, stands atop an embankment overlooking the temple grounds.

Visitors can also experience Naesosa’s Templestay program where all are encouraged to leave behind one’s daily routine for a restful and revitalizing stay surrounded by nature. One can also experience Korean Buddhist culture through various programs, including making lotus lanterns, the dado traditional tea ceremony, and the practice of 108 prostrations, among many others. There is also the walk through the temple’s spruce forest and a hiking trail up to Mt. Naebyeon-san for a more immersive experience in Korea’s natural surroundings.

02 Enjoy a Slow Meandering Walk at the Land’s End: Mihwangsa Temple

in Haenam

Situated on the slopes of Mt. Dalma-san (489m) in Haenam-gun, Jeollanam-do Province, Mihwangsa is located in a village at the very southern tip of the Korean Peninsula. Behind the temple stand the graceful rock spires of Mt. Dalma-san, while in front lies the Dado Sea, inhabited by the small islands of Haenam and Jindo, a most beautiful scene.

Climbing the steps running through the center of the temple, the simplicity of the wooden Main Buddha Hall, without

How to Get ThereFrom Buan Bus Terminal, take the bus to Naesosa (No.310). The bus travels through Julpo, and the trip takes about 50 minutes.

Websitehttp://www.naesosa.org

Templestay Information +82-63-583-3035

The entire Main Buddha Hall was built using only wooden joints, without a single nail

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the colorful dancheong painting, attracts one’s attention. Upon the cornerstone of the Main Buddha Hall are decorative carvings of turtles, fish and crabs, definitely worth a closer look before entering the Main Buddha Hall. One may wonder how carvings of sea creatures ended up in this mountain temple. Because it sits by the sea, Mihwangsa perhaps embodies the merger of indigenous folk religion and Buddhism in praying for the safety of all ships and sailors?

Another great attraction of Mihwangsa not to be missed is the sunset as seen from the Main Buddha Hall. The abbot, Ven. Geumgang, even named it the "sunset offering" as the evening's glow is deep and intense when viewed from the Main Buddha Hall.

Having viewed the sun as it sets into the sea, an overnight stay is recommended for a night of viewing the Milky Way and falling stars. Mihwangsa's Templestay program is available for anyone wanting to participate, however, a simple phone reservation is required.

03 The Embodiment of Time’s PassageHwaeomsa Temple,A Cradle of Buddhist Culture

Just as great mountains create great rivers, so do great

mountains create great temples. Situated at the foot of famed Mt. Jirisan and in view of the fields bordering the beautiful Seomjingang River in Jeolla-do Province, Hwaeomsa Temple was founded 1,500 years ago by the great Indian Patriarch Yeongi Josa. It is an ancient temple where numerous great monks have taught and propagated the Flower Garland Sutra.

Named after the Hwaeom-gyeong (the Flower Garland Sutra), “hwaeom” refers to the beauty of all the world’s flowers. Hwaeomsa is the largest of the Eight Great Temples of Mt. Jirisan and sits near the foot of Nogodan Peak. The temple holds more than ten Korean

How to Get ThereFrom Haenam Station, take the bus to Mihwangsa (08:20, 11:00, 14:05, 17:00). A direct bus to Mihwangsa operates four times a day, and takes about 40 min.

Websitehttp://www.mihwangsa.com

Templestay Information +82-61-533-3521

1 The natural wooden hues of Mihwangsa's Main Buddha Hall give it its simple beauty, even without colorful dancheong paintings.

2 Upon the cornerstone of the Main Buddha Hall are decorative carvings of turtles, fish, crabs and other sea creatures.

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3 An awe-inspiring sunset viewed from Mihwangsa

4 The largest of the extant Korean stone lanterns, the Gakhwangjeon stone lantern stands at over 6 meters. The bondstone that supports the stone lantern is carved in a lotus pattern.

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national treasures and cultural assets, including the country’s largest wooden structure, Gakhwangjeon Hall (Korean National Treasure No.67). Thus, the temple is often referred to as a repository of cultural assets.

Hwaeomsa's Gakhwangjeon is special for its majestic presence. From the outside it seems to be a two-story building, but it is actually a single-story structure. In front of Gakhwangjeon Hall stands a giant stone lantern over six meters tall (Korean National Treasure No.12). The lantern offers us a glimpse of the brilliant Buddhist sculptural tradition of the Unified Silla period at its peak. After viewing Gakhwangjeon, climb up the 108 steps to the left of the hall that lead to the Three-Story Stone Pagoda of the Four Lions (Korean National Treasure No. 35). Built by Yeongi Josa, the Patriarch of Hwaeomsa, in prayer for his mother, the pagoda is a celebrated masterpiece of delicate decorations and sophisticated carving technique.

One is filled with awe at the magnificent wooden structures that stand all around the Hwaeomsa temple grounds, and the moss-stained stone pagodas only hint at its age.

04 The Sacred Ground of the Maitreya Faith,Geumsansa Temple in Gimje

Mt. Moak means "mother’s mountain," and it is home

to Geumsansa Temple. Like a mother gently holding her baby, Mt. Moaksan cradles Geumsansa, the largest temple in Jeollabuk-do Province and the birthplace of the Maitreya faith in Korea. The Maitreya faith believes in Maitreya Bodhisattva, who represents the pursuit of an ideal society. The Maitreya Hall (Korean National Treasure No. 62) was built by Vinaya Master Jinpyo of Unified Silla (during King Gyeongdeok's reign) after his encounter with Maitreya Bodhisattva. There is an interesting story about Geumsansa's Maitreya statue.

The Lion Stone Pagoda (Korean Treasure No. 300) standing in front of Wontongjeon Hall. A Unified Silla structure, the stone pagoda has four lions atop a lotus-shaped pedestal, all four together supporting on their heads a large square stone slab.

Geumsansa's Maitreya Hall. The Jangnyuk Triad-Buddha enshrined inside the Maitreya Hall is the most famous Buddha statue in the temple.

How to Get ThereFrom Gurye Station (Jeollanam-do Province), take the bus to Hwaeomsa Temple (07:00, 08:30, 10:00, 13:00, 14:00, 15:30, 18:30). The trip takes about 20 min.

Websitehttp://www.hwaeomsa.org

Templestay Information+82-61-782-7600

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During the Japanese occupation of Korea, when the plundering reached its height, the Maitreya Bodhisattva is said to have cried for three days and three nights.

The legendary and powerful Maitreya Bodhisattva is thought to have cried silent tears as the Japanese ravaged the whole nation day by day. The helpless people could only visit the Maitreya Bodhisattva now and then to stand in its presence, trying to notice any changes in it. The temple's Maitreya Hall radiates a powerful presence and is the first thing one sees upon entering the Geumsansa temple grounds. Wandering around the quiet courtyards of Geumsansa, one can feel the permeating spirit of the Maitreya lineage in every corner of the temple.

The Bangdeung Precepts Altar (site of the Mahayana precepts ceremony where one receives their Dharma name and officially becomes a Buddhist monk). It is a wide two-story embankment with a five-story stone pagoda (Korean Treasure No.25).

How to Get ThereBoard city bus No.5 in front of Gimje Station (Jeollabuk-do). The trip takes about 50 min.

Websitehttp://www.geumsansa.org

Templestay Information+82-63-542-0048

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•Chapter2. Temple Diary

Staying in a Monastery, One of the Most Tranquil Places:Dogapsa in Yeongam

Dogapsa, in Jeollanam-do Province,

is a historic temple that dates back

to 880 CE. Replete with a series of

splendid national treasures, it is a sea

of calm in an oasis of natural beauty.

Article by Tim Alper Photos by Choi Bae-moon

• Arriving at Dogapsa

The sun beats down brightly on the young leaves of the trees around Dogapsa. It is early summer, and the cloudless cobalt sky is the perfect backdrop for this age-old site. The temple complex is built in a large clearing in a valley in what appears to be an undulating sea of green mountains. Although there are plenty of visitors milling around when I arrive, most maintain a tranquil hush on this hallowed ground. Above, birds of various species tussle for dominance of the sky. Caterpillars crawl across the stonework, while jet-black beetles scurry along the gravel paths. The big city is nowhere to be seen or heard here - nature rules supreme. It is hard for us unenlightened to even guess at the opinions of the Buddha, but I personally feel that he would have strongly approved of this place.

I am immediately asked to change into a simple linen outfit. As I shed my brand-name denim jeans and nylon windbreaker, I can sense that there is a definite line being drawn. The hustle and smog of the city is being peeled away from me. The harried stress of phone calls, emails and nagging bosses will have to be put on hold - at least for a while.

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I am taken on a tour of

the temple grounds.

This takes in an 11th-

century stone statue of

the Buddha, who sits

ever-tranquil, looking

out over the tree

line at the imposing

mountains beyond. A

path that leads back

to the main complex

traverses a stream

that bubbles past

great grey rocks. The

clear waters are busy

repositories for all sorts

of life forms

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The Main Buddha Hall of Dogapsa has a series of mural paintings that depict the life of the Buddha. As we viewed the paintings, it was nice to listen to explanations about how the Buddha attained enlightenment and entered nirvana.

With lush green leaves growing thick, the forest of early summer was beautiful. Leaves glistened with reflected sunlight, and countless birds chirped here and there. I was blissful just being there.

The Liberation Gate is the gateway to the Buddha’s realm. Though it was a simple act of passing through a gate while imagining entering the realm of the Buddha, I somehow felt reverent.

I had a brief moment of respite soaking my feet in the waters of the mountain stream. The water was much colder than I expected.

I entered Maitreya Hall, said to grant me one wish if I offered a heartfelt prayer. I joined my palms in hapjang and offered a prayer.

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• Tales of the Buddha

I am taken on a tour of the temple grounds. This takes in an 11th-century stone statue of the Buddha, who sits ever-tranquil, looking out over the tree line at the imposing mountains beyond. A path that leads back to the main complex traverses a stream that bubbles past great grey rocks. The clear waters are busy repositories for all sorts of life forms

But the most impressive sight to be seen here is the magnificent Main Buddha Hall. Inside are three huge statues of the Buddha. They benevolently look down at the stream of worshipers who flow past below, paying their respects with deep bows and heartfelt prayers. It is, however, the exterior of this building that truly captivates me. Huge panels are decorated with giant paintings that tell the story of the Buddha―from conception to enlightenment to death. They are all illustrated with such radiant color that the images stay dancing before your eyes long after you have walked away.

• Silence is Golden

After the late afternoon service, the other Templestay participants and I are initiated by a nun, the Ven. Sunha, as to how to go about walking, bowing, eating, even removing our shoes properly during our stay. At first all this information is incredibly daunting. The other participants nod sagely as they listen to the instructions, but I start to feel worried that I cannot possibly hope to remember every detail. Nevertheless, I will have to trust my memory.

The first real test arrives in the form of dinner. The procedure is complex and involves a strict order for arranging one’s chopsticks, spoon and bowls. We are asked to sit cross-legged on the floor for the entire process, and when we have finished, we stay in that position to do our own washing up, before wrapping our eating utensils and storing them.

I am no expert on Korean Buddhism, but it seems to me that the reasoning behind this process is the idea that eating should be a process that transcends the satiation of one's appetite. The monks and nuns make a form of practice out of every single action. Your entire focus is yourself and your own actions. Here, even the simple act of feeding yourself can be the first step on a long journey inward.

Changing into the training uniform and white rubber shoes distributed by the temple, I walked leisurely in the temple courtyard. Tranquility enveloped the courtyard, and I realized that I had truly left my daily life behind.

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Night falls quickly over the mountains, and the sky is immediately lit up by bright stars that are mostly invisible if you live in the big city. The day birds have fallen silent. The night shift is taken up by hooting owls. They are accompanied by a variety of nocturnal beasts who have us surrounded in this temple, but who come in peace, preferring to rustle around in the bushes behind my sleeping quarters than to venture into this religious idyll. I recline on the wooden floor of my room, listening to them rummaging in the foliage while the night birds continue to sing odes to the starlight.

• Dawn Delivers

At 4:30 a.m. I am woken abruptly by the sound of a moktak, a wooden handbell. It chimes to signify the start of the first service of the day. I hurry towards the main hall and take my place among the congregation, who chant in wondrous harmony as they bow in time to the strikes of the monk's moktak. This is not so bad, I think. Little do I know that this is only the beginning of the day’s religious activity.

Ven. Sunha leads us on a procession around the pagoda before taking us to a hall where we begin performing 108 bows before a small shrine. It is no small feat. But, again, the bows seem to have a yogic purpose. You cannot really think about much else when you are bowing. Your main focus is your posture, the positioning of your hands, and timing your bows to coincide with the commands of the monk or nun. Like it or not, making the full 108 bows properly is a sure way to empty your mind.

After the praying and the bowing, Ven. Sunha asks us to meditate and listen to the birdsong. A little tired from all this early morning piety, I drift into a blissful state of hypnagogia―a state of relaxation somewhere between waking reality and dreaming.

We follow this with pohaeng―a longish stroll around the paths that stretch out into the hills behind the temple. With the temple's two trusted Jindo dogs leading the way, we navigate our way up rocky paths and through a lush bamboo forest before looping around and returning down the valley to the temple. We arrive just in time for breakfast, which follows the same rituals as last night's dinner. In all the time I have been here, I have not even once thought to check my phone for messages, call friends or stress about work this coming Monday.

Before leaving, I am allowed a short amount of time to sit with Ven. Sunha and the other participants to talk about how we feel about our experiences. My own emotions are simple, and easy to express. I do not really feel like leaving at all―and if I must depart, I hope I can return soon. As I turn my back on Dogapsa and make my way back to the dirt, the pollution and the adrenaline of the city, I resolve that this weekend's Templestay should certainly not be my last.

35

In baru gongyang, the formal monastic meal, we need to put rice, soup, side dishes and water into four individual bowls and then finish them all. It was difficult to eat in silence, but the meal reminded me of the preciousness of food.

There are two dogs named Gapsun and Sungeum at Dogapsa. I left for a walk to the bamboo forest together with Sungeum. The fresh air of early morning and the refreshing breeze cheerfully lifted our spirits.

At 4:30 a.m. the sound of a moktak, a wooden handbell, awoke me. Circling around the pagoda following Ven. Sunha, I breathed in plenty of fresh morning air.

36

•Chapter3. Food

The Healthy Taste of Nature

At Beomnimsa Temple in Gwangju,

Jeollanam-do Province, lives Ven.

Mujin, who grows her own pesticide-

free produce and grains. She also

doesn’t use any artificial seasonings

when cooking but uses traditional

Korean fermented condiments called

doenjang (bean paste) and ganjang

(soy sauce). She believes that to stay

healthy we must follow the laws of

nature and eat seasonal foods. Let us

learn some summer recipes from her

to enhance our health.

Chef Ven. Mu-jin Beomnimsa Temple Food Stylist Gong Hye-jinFood Styling Assistant Song Hwi-yung Article by Kim Gyeong-mi Photos by Ha Ji-gwon

Q. Do you prepare food at Beomnimsa with ingredients you grow yourself?

Yes, we have fields and rice paddies that cover about 1.5 acres. We live on the grains and vegetables organically grown here. My idea of healthy food is extremely simple. It is to cook food with quality ingredients produced in season. I believe the food we eat also must follow the laws of nature.

Q. What do you mean by food that follows the laws of nature?

To follow the laws of nature is to eat food produced locally. Nature and people are one. By eating food provided by nature, the food produces energy in our bodies, and the energy of our bodies returns to nature again.

Q. People these days have a lot of stress, and this stress negatively affects their health. Can they enhance their health with healthier food?

Even monastics experience anger at times when they are under stress. At those times I usually eat azaleas. I eat them fresh and uncooked, but sometimes I also make azalea extract and drink that instead. Azaleas are said to have

37

Nature and people are one.

By eating food provided by

nature, the food produces

energy in our bodies,

and the energy of

our bodies returns to

nature again.

38

39

ingredients that appease anger. All foods are somehow harmonized in yin and yang energy as they are part of nature. Thus, I pair easily digestible foods with foods difficult to digest, and I balance foods that have “cool energy” with foods that have “warm energy.” When stressed out, if you take in lots of healthy food, your mind will regain calm, and a tranquil mind will enhance physical health.

My idea of healthy food is extremely simple. It is to cook food with quality ingredients produced in season. I believe the food we eat also must follow the laws of nature.

Ven. Mujin of Beomnimsa lives a self-

sufficient life with agricultural products

she grows. At the core of the spirit

of temple food, which she regards

highly, is to eat light, to eat all of a meal

without leaving any leftovers, and to

eat for the sake of nourishing the pure

life of a practitioner. Since childhood, she had suffered from

tuberculosis, an almost incurable disease. But she was eventually

cured of this disease through a continual intake of pure food.

Based on her own experience, she cooks small side dishes and

distributes them to senior citizens in her neighborhood.

Ven. Mu-jin

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Tri-Color Noodles, Savory and ChewyIn the summer, when we tend to prefer cold food, it is good to balance our energy by pairing cold food with food that has a warmer disposition. By pairing the cold nature of buckwheat and the warm nature of pine nuts, we can enjoy a savory dish as well as sound health.

Ingredients

200g flour, 70g buckwheat powder, 1 carrot, 10 mulberry leaves

(or spinach), 30g pine nuts, 1T traditional soy sauce, 600ml water,

vegetable stock (110x30 cm sheet of kelp, 100g shitake mushrooms,

2 potatoes)

Directions

1 To make the vegetable stock, put the kelp, potatoes, shitake mushrooms and water into a pot and simmer for 2 hours. Let cool.

2 Put 70 g flour and 1 ground carrot into a bowl and knead well.

3 Put 70 g flour and the ground mulberry leaves into a bowl and knead well.

4 Mix the rest of the flour with the buckwheat powder. Mix in some portion of the vegetable stock and knead well. You now have 3 different colors of dough.

5 Roll each of the separate lumps of dough flat with a rolling pin.

6 Fold one flattened piece of dough in half and then fold this in half once more. Slice them thinly into noodles. Do the same with the other two.

7 Bring water to a boil in a pot. Put the carrot noodles in and boil for a few minutes. Take them out when cooked. Repeat the procedure with the mulberry noodles and buckwheat noodles.

8 Blend pine nuts and water in a ratio of 2 to 1 to make 600 ml pine nut broth.

9 Boil the vegetable stock prepared in step 1. Add 200 ml of the pine nut broth prepared in step 8 and boil once more.

10 Add the carrot noodles cooked in step 7 and bring to a boil once so that the pine nut broth soaks into the noodles. Take the noodles out.

11 Add another 200 ml of the pine nut broth to the stock and repeat the procedure with the mulberry noodles. Repeat the whole procedure with the buckwheat noodles.

12 Put the tri-color noodles in a bowl neatly for color contrast and pour in the stock from step 11.

T P If you boil the stock too long after adding the pine nut broth, the stock loses its savory taste. So add the pine nut broth at the last minute and then bring to a boil once more.

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Acorn Jelly Noodles in Cold BrothOne distinctive Korean food is called muk (jelly products made from grains or nuts), and among them, acorn jelly (dotori muk) is the most popular. Besides acorn jelly salad mixed with vegetables and soy dressing, acorn jelly noodles in cold broth will revive your appetite in the sizzling heat of mid-summer.

Ingredients

200g acorn powder, 1,000ml water, 1 sheet of dried seaweed (gim),

50g aged gimchi, 2T sesame seed powder, vegetable stock (110x30 cm

sheet of kelp, 100g shitake mushrooms, 2 potatoes)

Directions

1 Mix acorn jelly powder and water in the ratio of 1 to 5 and soak for an hour.

2 Put the mixture prepared in step 1 into a pot and bring to a boil.

3 Keep stirring in one direction so that the acorn powder won’t stick to the pot.

4 When the mixture thickens and bubbles form on the surface, turn the heat to low and simmer for a minute.

5 Put the mixture in a container and let cool for an hour.

6 When the mixture hardens into soft jelly, cut it in long strips.

7 Put the shredded acorn jelly in a bowl and top with aged gimchi.

8 Garnish with shredded gim and sesame seeds.

9 Pour in vegetable stock to complete the dish.

T P When making acorn jelly, be sure to stir in one direction at a consistent speed to produce a chewy texture.

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•Chapter4. Journeys

Worthwhile Island Journeys in Jeolla-do Province This Summer

An island signifies yearning. It is a

place where a soft, clear breeze can

abruptly awaken one's consciousness.

An island is a different kind of space.

It is de-secularized space that allows

escape from everyday life. Thus,

almost without fail, those who reside

on the mainland constantly yearn for

an island, while those who reside on

an island yearn for the mainland.

Article & photos by Lee Gang, Travel Columnist

• Enticing Colorful Islands: Heuksando and Hongdo

If sooty Heuksando Island is masculine and robust, the smaller Hongdo Island is feminine and charming, like a woman with rouged cheeks. It takes more than two hours to get to Hongdo by ferry. When you get off at Yeri Port, the gateway to Heuksando, the characteristic fishy island smell and pungent smell of skate seem to fill the air. After stimulating your palate with a few slices of skate, you can set out on a bus tour of the island.

Around sunset, Hongdo seems to glow red, floating like a ripe persimmon in the middle of the ocean. Dubbed the “Red Pearl of Dadohae,” Hongdo is a very picturesque island and is part of the Dadohae Maritime National Park. Hongdo has 33 great scenic sites, carved by wind and waves into the stone. The highlight of Hongdo travel is a cruise around the island. Marveled and awed by the strangely shaped rocks and caves, you will find the two

How to Get ThereFrom Mokpo Port a ferry runs 3-4 times a day. During the peak summer season, trips may increase to 6 or 7. It takes 2 hours 30 minutes to get to Hongdo via Heuksando. For a tour of Heuksando, visitors usually take a taxi or bus from Yeri Port and tour the coastal roads around the island. You should not miss the Mt. Sangnasan Observation Deck (226m) from where you can look out over Yeri Port, Daejangdo and Sojangdo Islands, and even to distant Hongdo.

For More InformationSinan-gun Cultural Tourism (+82-61-271-1004), Hongdo Cruise Ship Cooperatives (+82-61-246-2244), Heuksando Maritime Tourism (+82-61-275-9115)

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Dubbed the

“Red Pearl of Dadohae,”

Hongdo provides a

magnificent sunset.

As the sea and sky turn into

crimson red,

even your heart may be

dyed in red.

44

1 The highlight of Hongdo travel is a cruise around the island. You will be marveled and awed by the strangely shaped rocks and caves.

2 At Yeri Port, the gateway to Heuksando, the characteristic fishy island smell and pungent smell of skate seem to fill the air.

3 The 152 meter Mangju Peak is the highest on Seonyudo.

1 2 3

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and half hour cruise ends much too soon. After the cruise, some visitors look forward to watching the sunset. Who wouldn’t be enchanted by the crimson waves lapping against this rocky island?

• Seonyudo, an Island Shaped by Wind and Pounding Waves

As one of the major tourist sites in the West Sea, Seonyudo is an island located in the coastal waters near Gunsan. The name Seonyudo originated from the two mountain peaks in its northern region, which look like two hermits sitting face to face playing a game of baduk. Seonyudo boasts eight great scenic sites that are reminiscent of beautiful oriental paintings. The first, Mangju Falls, runs down from the 152 meter Mangju Peak, the highest point on Seonyudo. After a heavy summer rain, the water cascades down from this solemn peak, creating a magnificent sight.

The second sight worth seeing is the fine sand and the sunset at Seonyu Beach. Fine, golden sand covers a natural sand dune that stretches for 4 km and is about 50 m wide. The sand dune, created by rushing waves and wind, connects the main island to another smaller island, creating a unique land form. A walking trail runs along the coastline near the dune. The beach is frequented by summer vacationers who want to take advantage of its fine sand for their oceanside excursion. In spring and fall many tourists flock to the island's mud flat to have fun digging clams. The third sight worth seeing is also at Seonyu Beach. As the tide rises, the lines formed by the water in the sand resemble seagulls spreading their wings. A magnificent sunset can also be viewed from the center of the beach where one can watch it set beyond the Jangja Bridge. And an awesome sunrise can be appreciated from the top of Seonyu Peak. Standing atop the peak, one can watch the fishing boats returning to the coastal waters of Jangjado Island after an overnight fishing trip. And if you turn around and face inland,

Seonyudo boasts eight great scenic sites that are reminiscent of beautiful oriental paintings. Of these, the second site, the sunset on Seonyu Beach, must not be missed.

How to Get There40 minutes from Gunsan Coastal Ferry Terminal and 10 minutes from Yamido Wharf

For More InformationGunsan Tourist Information Center (+82-63-453-4986) / Gunsan Coastal Liner Terminal (+82-63-472-2727), Jeollabukdo Culture and Tourism Website (www.gojb.net)

46

you can also greet the sunrise rising above the twelve peaks of Mt. Musan. Seonyudo is connected by bridge to the neighboring islands of Jangjado and Munyeodo.

• A Slow Healing Journey to Cheongsando Island

The air of Cheongsando is much different from that of the mainland due to its refreshing purity. The winding roads of Cheongsando are also different from the straight roads of a city in that they seem to run here and there without restraint, and the island’s feeling of spaciousness is palpable, unlike a city where one feels boxed in by countless buildings. It is probably for these reasons that you find the pace of life on Cheongsando a little more slow and relaxed. Located at the southernmost region of the archipelago called Dadohae in the South Sea, Cheongsando is an island 19.2 km south of Wando, Jeollanam-do Province. It is one of the most renowned islands in Dadohae for its superb scenery. The name “Cheongsan,” meaning “blue mountains,” comes from the blue color of its sky, mountains and the surrounding sea. The name conjures up images of blue mountains floating on the ocean.

1 The slow trails of Cheongsando are best when walked in leisurely steps.

2 As soon as you step onto theslow trails of Cheongsando, you lose any desire to “rush” anywhere.

1 2

47

Cheongsando is one destination Koreans want to visit for sure during their lifetime. As the emerald ocean is in perfect harmony with the island, it represents an archetype of Korean landscape. Perhaps that is one of the reasons Cheongsando was certified as the first “Cittaslow” (“Slow City”) in Asia. Oblivious of the outer world, Cheongsando enchants visitors with its slower pace of life. As soon as one steps onto the island, one loses any desire to “rush” anywhere. Cheongsando has 11 walking courses that total 42.195kms, providing an ideal environment for leisurely hiking, and each trail has its own distinctive name, such as Love Path, Dragon Path, etc. If you walk them all, you will circle the island. Providing an escape from hectic city life, Cheongsando is one of the best destinations for a journey of healing.

01 Geomundo and Baekdo Islands near Yeosu•Located halfway between Yeosu and Jeju Island, Geomundo Island

is fairly large. It lies in the southernmost area of Dadohae, 100 km

southwest of Yeosu. Three small islands (Godo, Dongdo and Seodo)

encircle the island's port like a protective screen. Geomundo is

endowed with natural bounty, and Baekdo is an uninhabited

archipelago scattered around the coastal waters of Geomundo. To

tour Geomundo and Baekdo takes about 2 hours. From Yeosu, a tour

boat runs twice a day, starting from 7 a.m.

For More Information:

Yeosu Port Ferry Terminal (+82-61-663-0116~7), Yeosu Regional

Office of Maritime Affairs and Fisheries (+82-61-660-9081)

02 Jeungdo Island at Sinan

•One of Korea’s 11 internationally

certified "Slow Cities," the waters

around Jeungdo are clean and

pristine. On the island is the

Taepyeong Salt Farm, the biggest

in Korea. Many relics from 14th century Yuan China have been found

here, including a shipwreck, pottery and coins. There is also the

Sinan Shipwreck Excavation Hall.

For More Information:

Gunsan Jeonnam Tourist Information Center (+82-61-280-4052),

Sinan-gun Office (+82-61-240-8000)

How to Get ThereA 40-minute boat trip from Wando Ferry Terminal (+82-61-550-6000) in Jeollanam-do. The ferry carries cars, but to practice the “aesthetics of slowness” it is best to leave your car at home. Be sure to confirm the ferry's operating schedule beforehand. As lodgings are limited on the island, reservations are recommended if you plan to stay overnight.

For More InformationCheongsan Agricultural Cooperatives (+82-61-552-9388), Cheongsando website (www.chungsando.co.kr)

Travel Tips

When the tide recedes and the mud flat is revealed, you can have fun digging clams on Hongdo.

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Q In Templestay programs, I’ve seen participants making lotus lanterns and circumambulating pagodas. Why do they circle pagodas?

A Pagodas symbolize the Buddha because the Buddha’s relics are often enshrined in them. That’s why people put their palms together in utmost reverence and circumambulate pagodas while offering sincere prayers. This practice has gradually developed into a folk event, and on traditional holidays many people perform the ritual of circling pagodas with lanterns in their hands. It is said that countless young people

have met the right man or woman while doing this.

Q What is the communal work practiced in temples?

A Residents of a temple often get together and engage in communal work. This work is called ullyeok in Korean and literally means that many people put in effort together like gathering clouds. In the spirit of the aphorism, “A day without work is a day without food,” all temple residents gather to perform simple manual labor and cultivate the precious spirit of community. At temples, labor is also regarded as a part of Buddhist practice. During ullyeok, Templestay participants usually wash their own dishes, clean their rooms or sweep the temple grounds.

Q What is walking meditation and what is it good for?

A Walking meditation ("pohaeng") is to walk slowly while practicing Seon (Zen) meditation. To walk in the forest near a beautiful mountain temple and feel oneself immersed in nature is an important practice. Pohaeng was originally performed by monastics who walked to relieve fatigue when they felt drowsy during meditation. When you walk leisurely, breathing fragrant forest air and listening to a murmuring brook, you may be able to reflect on your somewhat neglected mind.

Q Is each participant assigned a room of his or her own?

A Some people are worried about the matter of using restrooms or washrooms during their stay in a traditional temple. Most Templestay programs provide furnished rooms with modern facilities. Usually, men sleep separately from women, and several people stay together in a room. In some cases, one may be assigned a separate room of his or her own if the guiding monk deems it necessary.

•Templestay Q&A•

Article by Kim Sang-hwa Illustrations by Kim Da-jeong

Curious about Templestay?Maximize Your Fun with Some Prior InformationA Templestay is an experiential, cultural program where visitors can stay in a temple and gain firsthand experience of Korean Buddhism and traditional culture.As such, the more you are prepared, the more you can get out of it. Let us find out what Templestay programs there are and the content and significance of these programs.

20 Selected Temples for Foreigners

•Where to Experience Templestay•

Bongeun-saInternational Seon Center

Myogak-sa

Yongjoo-sa

Woljeong-sa

Jikji-sa

Donghwa-sa Golgul-sa

Beomeo-sa

Haein-saGeumsan-sa

Magok-saBeopju-sa

Seonun-sa

Hwaeom-sa

Naeso-sa

Mihwang-sa

Yakchun-sa

Jeondeung-saGeumsun-sa

Seoul

Bongeun-sa+82-2-3218-4826www.bongeunsa.org

Geumsun-sa+82-2-395-9955www.geumsunsa.org

Myogak-sa+82-2-763-3109www.myogaksa.net

International Seon Center+82-2-2650-2242www.seoncenter.or.kr

Gyeonggi •Incheon

Jeondeung-sa+82-32-937-0152www.jeondeungsa.org

Yongjoo-sa +82-31-235-6886www.yongjoosa.or.kr

Chungbuk • Chungnam

Beopju-sa+82-43-544-5656www.beopjusa.or.kr

Magok-sa+82-41-841-6226www.magoksa.or.kr

Jeonbuk •Jeonnam

Geumsan-sa+82-63-542-0048www.geumsansa.org

Hwaeom-sa+82-61-782-7600www.hwaeomsa.org

Mihwang-sa+82-61-533-3521www.mihwangsa.com

Naeso-sa+82-63-583-3035www.naesosa.org

Seonun-sa+82-63-561-1375www.seonunsa.org

Gyeongbuk • Gyeongnam

Golgul-sa+82-54-775-1689www.sunmudo.com

Haein-sa+82-55-934-3110www.haeinsa.or.kr

Jikji-sa+82-54-429-1716www.jikjisa.or.kr

Jeju

Yakchun-sa +82-64-738-5000www.yakchunsa.org

Gangwon

Woljeong-sa+82-33-339-6606www.woljeongsa.org

Busan • Daegu

Beomeo-sa+82-51-508-5726www.beomeo.kr

Donghwa-sa+82-53-982-0223www.donghwasa.net

English Translators Are Available

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When the scattered mind needs to be composed, the sound to signal the beginning, and end, of a meditation session comes from a jukbi or bamboo clapper. One end of the bamboo clapper is split to make a pretty loud sound. You hold the hand grip in your right hand and strike the split end against the left palm. With eyes half closed, each monastic investigates his own hwadu. In the quiet Seon room embraced by deep tranquility, the sound of the bamboo clapper breaks the silence.