bombs explosives experiments

8/9/2019 Bombs Explosives Experiments

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Bombs/Explosives/Experiments

Vinegar: 3-5% Acetic Acid Sani-Flush: 75% BisulfateTincture of Iodine: 47% Alcohol, 4% Iodine Rubbing Alcohol: 70% or 99% Isopropyl alcohol

[*-> Household Substitutes <*-]Chemical Name Household Substitute Acacia Gum Arabic Acetic Acid Vinegar Aluminum Oxide Alumia Aluminum Potassium Sulfate Alum Aluminum Sulfate Alum Ammonium Carbonate Hartshorn Ammonium Hydroxide Ammonia Water

Ammonium Nitrate Saltpeter Ammonium Oleate Bannana Oil Barium Sulfide Black Ash Carbon Carbonate Chalk Calcium Hypochloride Bleaching Powder Calcium Oxide Lime Calcium Sulphate Plaster of Paris Carbonic Acid Seltzer

Carbon Tetrachloride Cleaning Fluid Cetyltrimethylammonium Bromide Ammonium Salt Citric Acid Citrus Fruits

Ethylene Dichloride Dutch Fluid Ferric Oxide Iron Rust Furfuraldehyde Bran Oil Glucose Corn Syrup Graphite Pencil Tip Hydrochloric Acid Muriatic Acid Hydrogen Peroxide Peroxide Lead Acetate Sugar of Lead Lead Tetro-oxide Red Lead Magnesium Hydroxide Milk of Magnesia

Magnesium Silicate Talc Magnesium Sulfate Epsom Salts Methyl Salicylate Wintergreen Oil Napthalene Mothballs Phenol Carbolic Acid Potassium Bicarbonate Cream of Tartar

Potassium Bitartrate Saltpeter Potassium Chromium Sulfate Chrome Alum Potassium Nitrate Saltpeter Silicon Dioxide Sand Sodium Bicarbonate Baking Soda Sodium Borate Borax Sodium Carbonate Washing Soda

Sodium Chloride Salt Sodium Dioxide Sand Sodium Hydroxide Lye Sodium Hydroxide Drain Cleaner

Sodium Silicate Water glass Sodium Sulfate Grauber's Salt Sodium Thiosulfate Photographers hypo Sulfuric Acid Battery Acid Sucrose Cane Sugar Zinc Chloride Tinner's Fluid



Zinc Sulfate White Vitriol [ ] * Generating Chlorine Gas *

Get a large bottle and put AJAX in the bottom. Then pour some Ammoniadown into the bottle. Since the gas is heavier than air, it will stay downin there unless you use large amounts of AJAX or Ammonia.

[ ] * Chlorine + Turpentine *Take a small cloth or rag and soak it in Turpentine. Quickly drop it

into the bottle of Chlorine. It should give off alot of black smoke andprobably start burning...

[ ] * Chlorine Fuse Bomb *Materials:

-1 Large explosive (M-80 or above) -1 Large cylindrical cardboard container such as kool-aid drink mix -1 Roll of black electrical tapeFill the container half-way with comet cleanser. Then nestle the explosiveon the cleanser. Pour more cleanser until container is filled, leaveexplosive's wick sticking out above the comet, stick fuse through plastic topto the container tightly. To ignite this bomb just light the fuse and movequickly. The bomb will explode and fill the air with poison gas.

[ ] * Chlorine Gas *

Materials: -1 Two liter bottle -1 Measuring cup -1 Bottle of chlorox bleach -1 Bottle of AmmoniaPour 1/2 a cup of chlorox into the bottle. Pour 1/2 cup of Ammonia into thebottle. Quickly screw on the cap to the bottle and throw the bottle faraway. The cap will blow off releasing a deadly cloud of fumes.

[ ] * Chloride of Azode *

A good example of how ammonium nitrate can be chemically mixed with othersubstances, and impart its explosive qualities to these otherwise nonexplosive

materials, is in the preparation of chloride of azode.1. A quantity of chlorine gas is collected in a small glass beaker, and placed upside down on another glass beaker containing a water solution of ammonium nitrate.2. Now the solution of ammonium nitrate is heated gently. While it is being heated, the surface of the solution will become oily, and finally small droplets will form and sink to the bottom of the beaker.3. After this process is finished, remove the heat and drain off excess ammonium nitrate solution. The droplets that remain at the bottom of the beaker are chloride of azode of nitrochloride. Nitrochloride explodes violently when brought into contact with an open flame, or when exposed to temperatures above 212 degrees F.

There are hundreds and hundreds of formulas for the use of ammonium nitrate,in different explosive compounds. For further information, a chemistry manualor handbook of explosives can be useful.

[ ] * Hydrogen + Chlorine *Take the test tube of Hydrogen and cover the mouth with your thumb. Keep

it inverted, and bring it near the bottle of Chlorine (Not one that hasreacted with Turpentine) Say "Goodbye test tube", and drop it into thebottle. the Hydrogen and Chlorine should react and possibly explode



(Depending on purity and amount of each gas) an interesting thing about thisis they will not react if it is dark and no heat or energy is around, butwhen a light is turned on, enough energy is present to cause them to react...

[ ] * Generating Hydrogen Gas *To generate Hydrogen, all you need is an acid and a metal that will react

with that acid, try Vinegar (Acetic Acid) with Zinc, Aluminum, Magnesium,Etc. You can now collect Hydrogen in something, if you note Hydrogen islighter than air. Light a small amount and it burns with a small *POP*

Another way of creating Hydrogen is by an electrolysis of water, thisinvolves separating water (H2O) into Hydrogen and Oxygen by an electriccurrent. To do this you need a 6-12 Volt battery, two test tubes, a largebowl, two carbon electrodes (Take them out of any unworking 6-12 Voltbattery), and table salt. Dissolve the salt in a large bowl of water.submerge the two test tubes in the water and put the electrodes inside them,with the mouth of the tube aiming down. Connect the battery to some wiregoing down to the electrodes. This will work for awhile, but Chlorine willbe generated along with oxygen which will undoubtedly corrode your copperwires leading to the Carbon electrodes. (The table salt is broken up intoChlorine and Sodium ions, the Chlorine comes off as a gas with oxygen whileSodium reacts with water to form Sodium Hydroxide...) Therefore, if you canget your hands on some Sulfuric Acid, use it instead. It will not affect thewater conduct electricity.

[ ] * Creating Oxygen *Get Hydrogen Peroxide and Magnesium Dioxide (It's a black powder found inbatteries) mix the two in a bottle, and possibly some vaseline. The two willreact and give off oxygen. If the bottle is stoppered, pressure will buildup and shoot it off, if stoppered too tight notice it will explode.

[ ] * Iodine *Tincture of Iodine contains mostly Alcohol and a little Iodine. To separatethem, put the tincture of Iodine in a metal lid from a bottle and heat itover a candle. Have a stand holding another metal lid directly over thetincture (about 4-6 inches above it) with ice in top of it. the Alcohol

should evaporate, and the Iodine should sublime, but should form Iodinecrystals on the cold metal lid above. If this works, you can use the iodinealong with household ammonia to form Nitrogen Triiodine.

[ ] *How To Make Nitrogen Tri-Iodide*

Probably the most hazardous explosive compound of all is nitrogentri-iodide. Strangely enough, it is very popular with high school chemsits,who do not have the vaguest idea of what they are doing. The reason for itspopularity may be the ready availability of the ingredients, but it is sosensitive to friction that a fly landing on it, has been known to detonate it.The recipe has only been included as a warning and a curiosity. It should notbe used.

[1> Add a small amount of solid iodine crystals to about 20 cc. of concentrated ammonium hydroxide. This operation must be performed very slowly, until a brownish-red precipitate is formed.[2> Now it is filtered through filter paper, and then washed first with alcohol and secondly with ether.

Tri-idodide must remain wet, since when it dries it becomes supersensitive to friction, and a slight touch can set it off.



[*Nitrogen Triiodide*] Nitrogen Triiodide is a very powerful and very shock sensitive explosive. Never store it and be carful when you're around it- Sound, Air movements, andother tiny things could set it off.

MATERIALS- 2-3G Iodine 15ML concentrated Ammonia 8 sheets filter paper 50ml beaker Feather mounted on a two meter pole Ear plugs Tape Spatula Stirring Rod

Add 2-3g Iodine to 15ml Ammonia in the 50ml beaker. Stir, let stand for 5minutes. Do the following within 5 minutes! Retain the solid, decant the liquid (Pour off the liquid but keep the brownsolid...). Scrape the brown residue of Nitrogen Triiodide onto a stack of foursheets of filter paper. Divide solid into four parts, putting each on a seperatesheet of dry filter paper. Tape in position, leave to dry undisturbed for atleast 30 minutes (Preferrably longer). To detonate, touch with feather.(Wear ear plugs when detonating or cover ears- it is very loud!)

[*Nitrogen Triiodide #2]Five grams iodinethree grams potassium iodide20 ml. concentrated ammonium hydroxidefilter paper & funnel.Stir the potassium iodide and iodine together in a beaker with 50 ml. of water.Add the ammonium hydroxide with stirring until no more precipitate forms. Filterand spread a thin layer of the wet solid on several filter papers. Break thefilter papers into many small pieces and allow to dry for several hours. Ondrying, the paper is extremely sensitive to touch and will explode violentlywith the slightest disturbance. Can be handled safely when wet. Do not let anysizeable quantity of the dry material accumulate. --- I was able to buy

concentrated ammonium hydroxide from a photographic supply.[ ] * Gun Powder *

Materials: -3 Cups granulated potassium nitrate -2 Cups powdered charcoal -1/2 Cup sulfur -3 Pints Rubbing Alcohol -3 Cups Water1. Place the alcohol in a 2 Gallon bucket2. Place Potassium Nitrate, Charcoal, and Sulfur in a heat resistant 2 gallon bucket. Add 1 cup of water and mix very thoroughly until all of the ingredients are dissolved.

3. Add two more cups of water then place the bucket over an open fire and stir until you see small bubbles forming.4. Remove the bucket from the fire and pour it's contents into the alcohol bucket.5. Let the mixture set for about 5 minutes. Strain the liquid through a thick cloth, then squeeze in such a way that the powder left on it is formed into a good sized clump.6. Place some screening over a dry bucket, and rub the clump of powder over it.7. Pour the powder from the bucket over some sun-stricken cement to dry



8. Add 3 teaspoons of Potassium Nitrate to solution while stirring vigorously. The solution will turn red then back to yellow-orange9. Allow the solution to cool to room temperature while stirring occasionally10. Pour the solution into a glass containing 1 1/4 cup of water while stirring vigorously11. Filter the solution through a paper towel into a glass container12. Wash the yellow particles that collect on the towel with 2 teaspoons of water.13. Place the particles in a glass or ceramic dish and set in simmering water for 2 hours

[ ] * How To Make Picric Acid *

Method for the preparation of picric acid:1. Phenol is melted and then mixed with a concentrated solution of sulfuric acid. The mixture is constantly stirred and kept at a steady temperature of 95 degrees C., for four to six hours, depending on the quantities of phenol used.2. After this, the acid-phenol solution is diluted with distilled water, and an equal excess amount of nitric acid is added. The mixture of the nitric acid will cause an immediate reaction, which will produce heat, so the addition of the acid must be performed slowly, but more importantly the temperature of the solution must NOT GO ABOVE 110

degrees C.3. Ten or so minutes after the addition of the nitric acid, the picric acid will be fully formed, and you can draw off the excess acid. It should be filtered and washed in the same manner as above, until the litmus paper tests show that there is little or no acid present. When washing, use only cold water. After this, the picric acid should be allowed to partially dry.

Picric acid is a more powerful explosive than TNT, but it has disadvantages.It is much more expensive to make, and is best handled in a wet 10% distilledwater form, as picric acid becomes very unstable when completely dry. Thiscompound should never be put into direct contact with any metal, sinceinstantly on contact there is a formation of metal picrate, which explodes

spontanteously upon formation.[ ] * Electrical Blasting Cap *

Materials: -.75 Grams of Mercury Fulminate -Picric Acid -Spent casing of at least .22 calibre (.45, .50, .38, etc...) -12" fuse with insulated wire1. Strip about 1/4" of the insulation from the center of the wire2. Drill 2 holes in the casing3. Thread the wire so that the non-insulated area is inside the casing4. Fill the casing with the Mercury Fulminate5. When your done with step 8, connect one end of the wire to the positive

lead of a battery (the higher the voltage the better)6. Connect one end of the second wire to the negative lead and the second wire to a SPST or DPST or other 2-way switch (make sure the switch is in the off position)7. Connect the other end of the first wire to the other end of the switch8. Flip the switch whenever your ready to ignite the blasting cap.

[ ] * How to make Mercury Fulminate for Blasting caps *

3.12 MERCURY FULMINATE



Mercury fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiatingcompounds. It can be detonated by either heat or shock, which would make itof infinite value to a terrorist. Even the action of dropping a crystal ofthe fulminate causes it to explode. A person making this material wouldprobably use the following procedure:

Method # 11. Take 5 grams of pure mercury and mix it with 35 milliliters of Nitric Acid.2. The misture is slowly and gently heated as soon as the solution bubbles and turns green, one knows the silver mercury is dissolved.3. After it is dissolved, the solution should be poured, slowly, into a small container of Ethyl Alcohol. This will result in red fumes.4. After a half hour or so, the red fumes will turn white, indicating that the process is nearing its final stage.5. After a few minutes, add distilled water to the solution6. The entire solution is now filtered, in order to obtain the small white crystals. These crystals are pure mercury fulminate, but should be washed many time, and tested with litmus paper for any remaining acid.

Method # 21. Mix one part Mercuric Oxide with ten parts Ammonia solution. When ratios

are reached they are always according to weight rather than volume2. After waiting eight to ten days, one will see that the Mercuric Oxide has

reacted with the Ammonia solution to produce the white fulminate crystals3. These crystals must be washed several times and tested with litmus paper for any remaining acid

[ ] *Cheap Electrical Igniters

Materials:pack of 100 silicon diodes (available at any electronic store; you know you

got the right ones if they are very,very small glass objects.)pack of matches1 candle

Procedure:

1. light the candle and allow a large pool of molten wax to form in the top.2. take a single match and hold the glass part of a single diode against thehead....bend the wires around the head so that one wraps in an upward directionand then sticks out to the side...do the same with the other wire, but in adownward direction. The diode should now be hugging the match head, but itswires MUST NOT TOUCH EACH OTHER!!!!3. dip the match head in wax to give it a water-proof coat (work under water)4. repeat steps 1 - 3 to make as many as you want

How to use: When these little dudes are hooked across a 6vDC battery, the diode reaches what is called break-down voltage. When most electrical components reach this voltage, they usually produce great ammounts of heat and light, while quickly

melting into a little blob. This heat is enough to ingite a match head. These are recomended for use under water, where most other ingniters refuse to work. Enjoy!

[ ] * Land Mine *Materials:

-1 M-80 or other explosive -3 Wires -1 9 Volt battery



-1 Solar igniter -1 Pressure plate switch1. Connect the wire from battery to switch to solar igniter to battery2. Replace fuse on M-80 with solar ignitor3. Hide device under a light coat of dirt4. Place switch in the path when switch is pressured the bomb will go off

[ ] * Detonators *

The most common time-delay device is an ordinary safety fuse. Thesefuses usually consist of a black-powder core surrounded with a fabric andthen a layer of waterproof material. Although there are many different types,it can generally be said that safety fuses burn between 30 and 45 secondsper foot; however, check these figures when you make your purchase. Fusescan be bought from any mail-order pryotechnics company. Two with whom I havedealt are:

Ecco Products Box 189 Northvale, New Jersey 07647

Westech Corporation P.O. Box 8193 Salt Lake City, Utah 84108

Double-coated waterproof fuse usually sells for 20 to 25 dollars fora thousand to fifteen hundred feet. I would advise purchasing this equipment,since homemade fuses are not to be trusted. Bombs can be detonated in many ways. The detonation and use ofcertain devices are based mainly on the cleverness and imagination of thesaboteur. I will discuss several basic forms of detonators, both nonelectricand electric. However, there is an infinite number of variations, which may bebetter suited to individual situations. The first type is referred to either as a tension-release, or awiretrap device. It operates on the principle of releasing the tensioncaused by a wound spring, on the firing pin, and allowing it to strike andset off a nonelectrical blasting cap. The nonelectrical blasting cap will in

turn generate the necessary heat to ignite the TNT or dynamite. This can beimplemented in many ways. A common method in which the wire-trip device canbe employed is stretching a trip wire six inches above the ground. Anotherequally popular method of employing the tension-release device is attachingthe taut wire to the back of a door, so that, when the door is opened, thetension is released, and the explosive ignites. A device very similar to the last one is the pull-trigger electricdetonator. It functions in the same manner, in that a safety pin is removedfrom the striker or firing pin, causing it to move forward and connect with ametal plate. This connection with the metal plate completes the electricalcircuit. The batteries have been connected by wires to an electricalblasting cap, a metal plate, and finally to the firing pin. Althoughprofessional supplies for this equipment are available at reasonable prices,

the device can be constructed from household items. The construction of thisdevice is as follows: two flashlight batteries are connected to each other,and then one wire is run from one end of the batteries to the electricalblasting cap, the other wire from the opposite end of the batteries to themetal plate. A third wire is run from the blasting cap to the firing pin.This now completes the fully cocked device. In the same manner as the explosive is detonated, so is the commonmilitary grenade. The principle of a tension release is the same. After thepin is pulled out of the military grenade, the spring is free to react,causing the primer to ignite the lead-spitter fuse, and it in turn will ignite



the lead oxide and pentolite. The pentolite will release enough heat toignite the TNT and cause fragmentation of the metal casing. The next type of detonating device I am going to discuss is called thepressure-trigger device. It is based on the application of pressure ratherthan its release, as in the previous devices. This mechanism is primarilyused when an electrical circuit is employed. The plunger is pushed down; itforces one thin metal plate against another thicker metal plate. The batteriesare connected, via the blasting cap, to each of these metal plates. Therefore,when they touch, the electrical circuit is complete, and the explosive willignite. This type of device has several important advantages. First of all,it can be constructed away from the area it will be used in. This will cutinstallation time down to seconds.

[ ] * Pressure Detonators *

The next type of detonating device I will discuss is called areleas-of-pressure mechanism. This device employs exactly the same principlesas the pressure-trigger device, except in reverse. The movement of thepressure plate, rather than down, is now up. This can be used effectively whena weight is placed on the pressure plate. Then when it is removed, theexplosives will be ignited. To construct, use a heavy-duty spring beneath thefirst metal plate. Connect a wire from the blasting cap to the first metalplate. The second wire is then stretched from the bottom of battery "A", to

the second metal plate. The third wire is run from the electrical blasting capto the top of battery "B". When this is accomplished, the booby trap is fullycocked. When the weight on the pressure plate is remove, the spring will willforce the second metal plate against the first, thus completing the electricalcircuit and exploding the device. In a tension-release booby trap, when the tension, resulting from awire pulling on a pliable metal strip, is released, the metal strip will snapback into another metal strip. Since the wires from the batteries and blastingcap are connected to either metal strip, when they touch, the circuit will becomplete and it will detonate the explosive charge. This type of detonator isespecially effective when attached to drawers, doors, or any movable object.

[ ] * Mortars *

Materials: -3" Long and 4" Diameter iron pipe, threaded at one end -End cap for pipe -Gun powder -9 Volt lantern battery and wires -1 Pound of small stones or other small metal scrap (hex nuts) -2, 20" X 20" rags -Paper bag -Light bulb1. Screw the end cap on the pipe2. Using a file, make a hole in the top of the light bulb3. Fill the light bulb and sack with gun powder4. Solder two very long wires to the base of the light bulb

5. Put the bulb in the sack with the wires hanging out. Fill the rest of the sack with gun powder6. Put the sack into the back of the pipe. Make sure the wires lead out of the pipe7. Wad up one of the rags and pack it into the pipe. Make sure the wires led out of the pipe.8. Insert scrap, stones, shrapnel on top of the first rag9. Wad up the second rag and pack it in at the top10. Use some form of electrical tape11. Use battery to ignite



[ ] * Pressure Plate Switch *

Materials: -9 Volt Lantern battery -Piece of wood size of the pressure plate you want -Four small pieces of wood approximately 1/4" thickness -A piece of flexible conductive material (sheet metal,cut coke can,etc.)1. Nail the four extra pieces of wood to the corners of the largest piece of wood.2. Connect one wire to the positive lead of the battery3. Nail the stripped end of the positive wire to the center of the large piece of wood.4. Solder a second wire to the piece of metal5. Dig a hole where you want the pressure plate. Place the piece of wood into the bottom of the hole. Set the metal on top of the four supports. Cover with a loose, thin layer of dirt, leaves, etc.6. Attatch a third wire to the negative battery lead

[ ] * Briefcase Bomb *Materials:

-Briefcase -Moustrap -9 Volt battery -Plastique

-Electrical blasting cap1. Remove all parts of the mousetrap except for the spring loaded lever2. Attatch a wire to the positive lead of the battery and wrap it around the lever3. Attatch a second wire to the negative lead to the battery to one end of the wire of the blasting cap4. Attatch a second wire to the other end of the blasting cap wire5. Put in a considerable amount of plastique into the briefcase6. Insert blasting caps7. Tape down the battery and mousetrap to the bottom of the case8. Push back lever and tape the final loose wire (leads to blasting cap) to the mousetrap so that if the lever would be released. It would complete the circuit

9. Keeping the lever held back in it's spring-loaded position, close the briefcase top and lock it10. When it's opened, the lever will spring shut, completing the circuit to the blasting cap, igniting the plastique and blowing them to hell...

[ ] * Booby Traps *

[Road Trap]

This incorporates a wire-trip action to complete the electrical circuit. Itis extremely simple to make, since all the equipment can be gathered aroundthe house. The great advantage to this particular device is that theexplosives are detonated when the vehicle is directly over it, so insuring

maximum destruction. To construct a road trap, begin by digging three holesacross a roadway. Into two of the holes place the explosive charges, and intothe third place a regular car battery. Connect the first wire from thenegative terminal of the battery via each of the blasting caps, in eachcharge, to a metal pin on one side of an ordinary clothespin. Theclothespin must be kept open by a small wooden wedge, which is attached to athin black wire stretched across the roadway. When the semi-invisible wire ispulled, the wodden wedge will fall out of the clothespin, thus closing theclothespin. When the clothespin is closed, the two metal pins will connectthe electrical circuit, thus exploding the charges.



[Walk Trap]This incorporates the same type of wire-trap action as described in the roadtrap. The walk trap is not electrically operated, it relies on a percussiondetonator. When the wire is pulled, it pulls the safety pin out of the heavyfiring pin. The heat created from the detonator's explosion will besufficient to set off the TNT. This type of booby trap is especially effectivein dense undergrowth where the trip wire cannot be readily seen (see figure).

###### ########

#[TREE]# ######## ###### || || /|| !:!.;!.!.;!:;.! / || !:;[Tall Grass];! Wire->/ || !;::!;;.;!.;;!.;! / || !.;..!;..;.:!.;!! / || ______________________!.!!;.!:..!..:!.!______/_____||_________________ -----[Board]----- /

| ______ | /

|----|heavy |---|---/ <-Safety Pin | |firing| | | \pin / | | \ / | | \/ | | | | | |------####-----| <---[### = Detonator] |///////////////| |/////[TNT]/////| |///////////////| |_______________|

[Bangalore Torpedo]This is nothing more than a few sections of pipe filled with sticks ofdynamite, sealed at the ends, and joined in the middle by couplings, thuspermitting the torpedo to be of varying lengths. The cap at one end must havea small hole drilled in it, so that a fuse and blasting cap can be inserted.It can be used very effectively to destroy walls, barricades, andsteel or iron doors. These are also great weapons against cars, trucks, andeven trains. If piping of this sort is not available, you can make asubstitute torpedo by taking a stick of dynamite and wrapping it tightly withelectric tape and thin copper wire. To be effectvie, it should have manylayers of each.

[Homemade Hand Grenade]

This is constructed from an empty, clean, condensed-milk can, attached to awodden handle. It is then filled halfway with a layer of dynamite. In thedynamite is placed a nonelectric blasting cap, with a five to six secondfuse. The dynamite is then covered with small pieces of iron, until the can isfull. Seal the top of the open end closed, leaving a small hole for the fuse.

/ ====|==== =.:.|.:.= =:.:|.:.= <--[:.: = Iron Scraps]



=.:.|:.:= =---|---= =///+///= =///+///= <--[+ = Non-electric Blasting Cap] =///+///= =///////= =///////= <--[/// = Dynamite] ========= ||| ||| <-- Wooden Handle ||| |||

[Anti-Personnel Grenade]This is constructed by taking a piece of pipe and closing it at one end,either by soldering or by screwing a cap on it. The pipe is packed tightlywith dynamite, and sealed at the other end, leaving a small hole for thedetonator, which is made in the following manner. A piece of one-eighth-inchtubing is fastened to the end of a piece of fuse, which in turn is attachedto a detonating cap. On the other end of the fuse, a bit of cotton, saturatedwith chlorate of potassium and common sugar, is placed, followed by anotherpiece of cotton and a little vial of sulferic acid. (This vial must behermetically sealed, to prevent leakage). Finally, a piece of wood or iron,which can be easily moved, is packed in the remaining empty space. The piece

of wood is placed there, so that when the pipe is moved the piece of iron orwood will fall against the vial of sulfuric acid and break it. Once thesulfuric acid contacts the potassium chlorate, the chemical reaction willcause a very hot flame, which will ignite the fuse and cause the explosion. Ifthis type of device is placed in a roadway, or directly in the path of theenemy army, there is a good change it will be set off - either by a kick orby curiosity.

[Book Trap]To construct this, you will need a large book, perhaps a thousand pages. Thebook should be hollowed out, leaving the edges intact. In this hollow place,put a dry cell battery and your explosive, and connect the wires. Fix twometal contact points to the edges of the book, and separate them with a

wooden wedge, which is attached to the rear wall of the bookcase. This mustbe accomplished in such a manner that, when the book is removed from theshelf, the metal contact points will touch and complete the electricalcircuit, thus causing the detonation of the explosive charge.

[ ] BOOK BOMBS

Concealing a bomb can be extremely difficult in a day and age whereperpetrators of violence run wild. Bags and briefcases are often searchedby authorities whenever one enters a place where an individual might intendto set off a bomb. One approach to disguising a bomb is to build what iscalled a book bomb; an explosive device that is entirely contained inside ofa book. Usually, a relatively large book is required, and the book must be of

the hardback variety to hide any protrusions of a bomb. Dictionaries, lawbooks, large textbooks, and other such books work well. When an individualmakes a bookbomb, he/she must choose a type of book that is appropriate forthe place where the book bomb will be placed. The actual construction of abook bomb can be done by anyone who possesses an electric drill and a copingsaw. First, all of the pages of the book must be glued together. By pouringan entire container of water-soluble glue into a large bucket, and fillingthe bucket with boiling water, a glue-water solution can be made that willhold all of the book's pages together tightly. After the glue-water solutionhas cooled to a bearable temperature, and the solution has been stirred well,



the pages of the book must be immersed in the glue-water solution, and eachpage must be thoroughly soaked. It is extremely important that the covers ofthe book do not get stuck to the pages of the book while the pages are drying.Suspending the book by both covers and clamping the pages together in a viceworks best. When the pages dry, after about three days to a week, a hole mustbe drilled into the now rigid pages, and they should drill out much like wood.Then, by inserting the coping saw blade through the pages and sawing out arectangle from the middle of the book, the individual will be left with a shellof the book's pages. The pages, when drilled out, should look like this:

________________________ | ____________________ | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |__________________| |

|______________________| (book covers omitted)

This rectangle must be securely glued to the back cover of the book.After building his/her bomb, which usually is of the timer or radio controlledvariety, the bomber places it inside the book. The bomb itself, and whatevertimer or detonator is used, should be packed in foam to prevent it from rollingor shifting about. Finally, after the timer is set, or the radio control hasbeen turned on, the front cover is glued closed, and the bomb is taken to itsdestination.

[Loose Floorboard Trap]This one utilizes the same principles as the Book Trap, in that is relies ontwo metal contact points touching to complete the electrical circuit. Beneaththe loose floorboard are two strips of pliable metal of bamboo, each with ametal contact point, which will touch when pressure is brought down on theloose floorboard.

[Gate Trap]This is an extremely simple, effective, and relatively safe booby trap. Tocock the booby trap, pull the pin on a regular tension release grenade, andplace beneath a swining gate, or anywhere that will supply the pressurenecessary. When the gate is moved (either opened or closed), the pressurewill be released and the grenade detonated.

[Chimney Trap]Take three or four sticks of dynamite and tape them together. Attach anonelectrical blasting cap, with a three or four foot fuse. Now tape thedynamite about five feet up on the inside of the chimney, leaving the fusehanging loose downward. The end of the fuse should be about a foot or so upthe chimney so that it is out of sight. When a fire is lit, the heatgenerated will ignite the fuse, and it will explode the charge, further up thechimney. This works extremely well, since most of the tamping is supplied bythe very structure of the chimney.



[Car Trap]It has many advantages, the most important being that you do not have to carryyour own power supply, but rather use the ignition system of the car itself.Wires are run from the electrical blasting cap to points along the electricalignititon system, and attached with alligator clips. When the key it turned,it will complete the ignition system, and thus explode the bomb. A good placeto hide explosives is in the hollow cavity behind the dashboard, since thenthe full force of the explosion will be directed at the individuals in thefront seat.

[Pipe Trap]There are basically two methods of booby-trapping a pipe. The first is verysimilar to the chimney trap, except the intent is to blow off the smoker'shead. A small amount of tetryl or lead azide is placed in the mouthpiece ofthe pipe, and a fuse is attached, which leads through the rest of the pipe toa point about one-quarter-inch beneath the bowl. When the smoker lights thepipe, the fuse will be lit, and burn down untouched, until it detonates theexplosives in the mouthpiece, and blows the smoker's head off. The second method is a little more complex but just as effective. Avery sensitive explosive is placed in the mouthpiece, as before, except anactivated firing pin is placed in the stem of the pipe. The smoker willattempt to light the pipe and find he cannot suck through it. Believing thestem to be blocked with tar or nicotine, he will unscrew the threaded joint.

The act of unscrewing will release the firing pin, and detonate theexplosives.

[Cacodyal]Since it is not feasible to make napalm in your kitchen, you will have to besatisfied with cacodyal. This made by chemically extracting all the oxygenfrom alcohol, and then replacing it, under laboratory controls, with metalarsenic. The formula for alcohol is C4 H5 O, whereas for cacodyal it isC4 H5 AR. Now, this new substance, cacodyal, possesses spontaneousinflammability, the moment it is exposed to the air. Therefore it can be putinto a bottle and used like a Molotov Cocktail. If it is thrown, it willexplode on impact, but this is not its real advantage. When it explodes, adense white smoke is given off. This is white arsenic, a deadly poin. One

inhalation will probably cause death in a matter seconds.[Molotov Cocktail] This is an incendiary bomb, which bursts into flame on breaking. Aquart bottle is filled with 2/3 gasoline and 1/3 oil. A fuse is made of anold gasoline-soaked rag, and then stuffed into the mouth of the bottle. Thebottle is corked, and the fuse is lit. It is thrown and, when it breaks, itwill burst into flame. The enemy will not be able to extinguish the fire withwater. These were used with varying degree of success in the strugglein Hungary. According to some reports they can disable a tank.

[MOLOTOV COCKTAILS]

First used by Russians against German tanks, the Molotov cocktail is nowexclusively used by terrorists worldwide. They are extremely simple to make,and can produce devastating results. By taking any highly flammable material,such as gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene, ethyl or methyl alcohol, lighter fluid,turpentine, or any mixture of the above, and putting it into a large glassbottle, anyone can make an effective firebomb. After putting the flammableliquid in the bottle, simply put a piece of cloth that is soaked in the liquidin the top of the bottle so that it fits tightly. Then, wrap some of the clotharound the neck and tie it, but be sure to leave a few inches of lose cloth tolight. Light the exposed cloth, and throw the bottle. If the burning cloth



does not go out, and if the bottle breaks on impact, the contents of the bottlewill spatter over a large area near the site of impact, and burst into flame.Flammable mixtures such as kerosene and motor oil should be mixed with a morevolatile and flammable liquid, such as gasoline, to insure ignition. A mixturesuch as tar or grease and gasoline will stick to the surface that it strikes,and burn hotter, and be more difficult to extinguish. A mixture such as thismust be shaken well before it is lit and thrown

[Whistle Trap & Other Handy Devices]

A booby trap that has an effect similar to the one created by thepipe trap, is the whistle booby trap. It is constructed by separating themetal or plastic sides into their natural halves. This can be accomplished bysteaming. Now, fill each half one-fourth full of an extremely friction-sensitive explosive. Before gluing the two halves together, include a smallball made of a rough sandpaper-like substance (glue some sand together). Whenthe whistle is blown, the ball will bounce around inside the shell, creatingenough friction heat to set off the explosive charge. An interesting booby trap can be constructed by using a bottle, fullof a highly sensitive liquid explosive, which will detonate on the extractionof the cork. The cork is designed with a friction element that pulls througha sensitive explosive. When this booby trap explodes, it does extensivedamage, due to the fragmentation of the glass. An extremely simple device for setting a time-delay fire is a book of

matches, with a lighted cigarette stuck in it. This is then left uponcombustible material. The cigarette, as it burns down, will light the matches,and they in turn will generate the heat necessary to ignite the other largercombustible material. Another incendiary time-delay device is constructed out of a candle,friction matches, and several rags soaked either in gasoline or kerosene. Thecandle is placed upright in the center of the bundle of matches. As the candleburns down, it will ignite the matches, and they will ignite the rags. One canusually expect about a fifteen-minute delay with this device.

[ ] * Trap Light Bulbs *An automatic reaction to walking into a dark room is to turn on the

light. This can be fatal, if a lightbulb bomb has been placed in the overhead

light socket. A lightbulb bomb is surprisingly easy to make. It also comeswith its own initiator and electric ignition system. On some lightbulbs, thelightbulb glass can be removed from the metal base by heating the base of alightbulb in a gas flame, such as that of a blowtorch or gas stove. This mustbe done carefully, since the inside of a lightbulb is a vacuum. When the gluegets hot enough, the glass bulb can be pulled off the metal base. On otherbulbs, it is necessary to heat the glass directly with a blowtorch oroxy-acetylene torch. When the bulb is red hot, a hole must be carefully pokedin the bulb, remembering the vacuum state inside the bulb. In either case,once the bulb and/or base has cooled down to room temperature or lower, thebulb can be filled with an explosive material, such as black powder. If theglass was removed from the metal base, it must be glued back on to the basewith epoxy. If a hole was put in the bulb, a piece of duct tape is sufficient

to hold the explosive in the in the bulb. Then, after making sure that thesocket has no power by checking with a working lightbulb, all that need bedone is to screw the lightbulb bomb into the socket. Such a device has beenused by terrorists or assassins with much success, since nobody can search theroom for a bomb without first turning on the light.

Materials: -1 Light Bulb -1 Gallon of gasoline -1 Tube of Epoxy glue



-Liquid Soap1. Place hole in the light bulb (See Below)

* --- [ ] [ ] [ ] *[ ]* [ ] [ ] [ ] [-----]

*-Mark where hole may be placed

2. Carefully pour some gasoline through the hole filling half the bulb3. Carefully pour some liquid soap in to complete filling the bulb4. Cover the hole with Epoxy glue5. Make sure the switch is off and screw light bulb in socket, when the switch is turned on. The bulb will explode sending sharp fragments of glass all over...

[ ] * Pipe Bomb (Easy Version) *

Materials: -1 Threaded steel pipe with caps on the ends -1 Baby food or other small jar -Some small rocks -Some Baking Soda1. Fill glass jar with Vinegar2. Fit glass jar into steel pipe3. Cap one end of pipe4. Drop small rocks into pipe5. Fill pipe with Baking Soda6. Screw the other cap on tightly and then weld it shut. This is usually used as an impact explosive, toss it on a hard surface, the contact will break the jar, five to ten minutes later, it will explode

[*Pipe Bomb*]Buy a section of metal water pipe 1/2 by 6 inches long, threaded on both ends.Buy two metal caps to fit. These are standard items in hardware stores. Drill a1/16th hole in the center of the pipe. This is easy with a good drill bit.Hanson is a good brand to use. Screw a metal cap tightly on one end. Fill the(pipe to within 1/2 inch of the top with black powder. Do not pack the powder.Don't even tap the bottom of the pipe to make it settle. You want the powderloose. For maximum explosive effect, you need dry, fine powder sitting loose ina very rigid container. Wipe off any powder that has gotten onto the top orthreads of the pipe. Gently screw on the second cap. Hand tighten only. Place asmall piece of tape over the hole and go to your test site. Remove the tape andinsert a two inch piece of black match fuse or a firecracker fuse into the hole.

Place the bomb behind a large rock or tree. Using thread or string, lightly tiea 2 inch piece of sulfured wick to the end of the fuse. Avoid letting the wicktouch any objects. This might cause it to go out. Light the wick and head forcover in a direction that keeps the rock or tree between you and the bomb at alltimes. Get behind cover at least 50 yards away. You may not expect such a largeexplosion from such a small object. The pipe will be blown to pieces which willfly through (the air like bullets. An accident could seriously wound or killyou. This is not a big firecracker. It is more like a hand grenade. The size ofthe bomb can be increased by using a larger pipe end caps. To make a big noisewithout blowing up your pipe, cap one end only. Drill a 1/16 hole at the top



[Barium Nitrate]: Nitrated barium, in white crystalline powdered form.[Charcoal Powder]: A fine black powder, which is extremely absorbent, and used extensively in pyrotechnics.[Guncotton]: Nitrated cellulose (sawdust) is fairly stable, but usually used with other ingredients rather than alone. It is about 13-14% nitrogen.[Naphthalene]: This is a sensitizing agent that is normally in a white crystalline form.[Paraffin]: This is a primary ingredient in plastique, and acts as a texturizer.[Potassium Nitrate]: An explosive compound in itself, which is stable. It is usually in a white crystalline form.[Potassium Perchloride]: A white powder used as an igniting agent in high explosives. It is an extremely common ingredient in low explosives.[Resin]: A gummy substance, which is flammable, and used in high explosives as an igniting agent.[Sodium Carbonate]: This white crystalline powder acts to neutralize acid, which may make the explosive more unstable than it normally is.[Sodium Chloride]: This is nothing more than ordinary table salt, and is used as a cooling agent in many high explosives.[Sodium Nitrate]: A stable explosive compound which has the advantage of being water-absorbent.[Sodium Sulfate]: A stabilizing powder, which is water-resistant.[Starch]: This can be either potato or corn starch, and acts as an absorbent in many explosive compounds.

[Sulfur]: A yellow crystalline powder, which should be used in flour form only.[Vaseline]: A clear petroleum jelly used in a similar manner as paraffin, as a plasticizer, for many forms of exploding gelatins and plastic

explosives.

[ ] * Chlorox/Draino Bomb *Materials:

-2 Jars with metal lids (Baby food) -1 Bottle chlorox bleach -1 Bottle of liquid draino -1 Roll of electrical tapeFill one of these jars with chlorox and the other with liquid draino. Screw

the lids on both jars and seal them tightly with electrical tape. Tape bothjars together and to ignite this bomb just throw upon a hard surface. Thebottles will break and an explosion will occur. The larger the bottles(Jars) the larger the effect of the bomb.

[ ] * Soda Bomb/Poison Gas (2X Chlorine Gas Bomb) *Materials:

-1 Box granulated pool chlorine -1 Bag of sugar -1 Bucket of water -1 Two-liter soda bottle or other glass bottle -1 Small glass jar with metal lidMake a mixture of the following: 50% Chlorine, 50% Sugar

Put it in the bottle. Then fill the glass jar with water and put it in thesoda bottle. Throw this bomb at a hard surface, it'll create a explosionand very harmful fumes.

[ ] * Incendiary Bomb *First get a 16-Ounce returnable bottle, a tube of caulking, and a considerableamount of gun powder. Pour the calking into an old pot and warm it over a nicehot stove until it is plasma-like and gooey. Now, take an old strip of clothabout 10" long X 3/4" wide. Dip it in the caulking so that it is completely



covered with the stuff. Place the strip in the bottle so as a little bit sticksout the top. Pout in roughly 3/4 cup of gun powder into the bottom. Fill therest of the bottle up with the caulking, let dry, light the cloth. When the gunpowder explodes, it will spew out chards of glass and flaming strands ofcaulking (similar to napalm)

[ ] * Coin Changer Fraud *Have you ever seen one of those really big changer machines in airports, laudromatsor arcades that dispense change when you put in your 1 or 5 dollarbill?1. Find the type of change machine that you slide in your bill length wise, not the type where you put the bill in a tray then slide the tray in!!!2. After finding the right machine get a $1 or $5 bill. Start crumpling it

up into a ball. Then smooth out the bill, now it should have a very wrinkly surface.3. Now the hard part. You must tear a notch in the bill on the left side about 1/2 inch below the little 1 dollar symbol (see figure)4. If you have done all of this right then take the bill and go out to the machine. Put the bill in the machine and wait. What should happen is: When you put your bill in, the machine thinks everything is fine. Where it gets to the part of the bill with the notch cut out, the machine will reject the bill and (if you have done it right) give you the change at

the same time!!! So, you end up and get the bill back plus the change!! It might take a little practice, but once you get the hang of it, you can become rich!!!

----------------------------------- ! ! ! (1) (1) ! ! --------- ! ! ! ' ' ! ! ! ! --- ! ! ! (1) [] --------- (1) ! ! !! -Washington- ! ------[ ]----------------------

^^-----Make notch here. About 1/2 Down from (1) or try 3.5 cm.[ ] * Tennis Ball Bomb *As we know, tennis is a popular sport around the world. In tennis you usethese hollow green balls known as tennis balls. What people do not know is that thesewonderful little balls can be used for other things. They can be used as a handy littleexplosive or noise maker.You will need the following.1. A tennis ball (new if possible)2. A knife

3. A box of matches (the type that will strike on anything4. Epoxy Glue and Strong tapeFirst you take a knife and cut a small round hole on the tennis ball. Nextyou will cut off the match heads of each match and drop them into the hole until thetennis ball is full of them. Make sure you do not drop the tennisball, because it will not be too fun to stay in the hospital. Apply epoxyglue to the hole, then tape it up very well, so that it is air tight. Makea few of these and one day when some geek is walking down the street or whenyou want to get a big bang or attention, throw the ball. It is not to fun to



be where the ball lands. To make the explosion more powerful, you can usegun powder mix. Have fun!!!

[ ] * Pop Machine Fraud *

Here is a way to rip off the coke machines you see out side of stores andother places! ok first on all vending machines there are always those rouundalmost unpickable locks when no one is looking take a peice of air hardeningclayy (make sure it is only air hardening!) and press it into the lock realgood! then remove the clay carefully and put it somewhere to dry! make sure theclay is TOTALY dry then go back in a day or so and you will have a key to fitthat lock put the key in and push and turn and presto the machine will openallowing you to take all the money! a good machine will get you between 2100 and300 dollars depending when it was last checked by the company. and best of allif someone sees you just put the key on the ground and step on it and itspowder! and then you cant be busted because the evidence is blown away!so that's it.

[ ] * Car Destruction *Take an empty tyenol bottle and fill it with liquid draino. Make sure the lid is sealedgood, so it doesn't leak out any liquid draino. Then slip thebottle into the persons gas tank. What happens is the draino eats throughthe bottle and hits the gas, a chemical reaction take place then Kaboom!!!

[ ] * making M-80 and M-100s *

FLASH POWDER

Flash powder is a chemical mixture that burns so fast that it appears to burninstantly, producing a bright flash of light.

Flash powder will produce an extremely loud explosion in amounts larger than4 ounces even when it is not contained Very small amounts of flash powder willproduce a very loud explosion when contained, even in a container made of a fewlayers of paper.

Flash powder is usually made from a very fine powdered metal that will burn andan oxidizer. Powdered aluminum is used the most because it is cheaper.Powdered magnesium and zinc will also work. The oxidizer can be Barium Nitrate,Ammonium Perchlorate, Barium Peroxide, Strontium Nitrate, Potassium Chlorate,Potassium Perchlorate, Sodium Chlorate, Potassium Permanganate, others, and anycombination of these. All the Chlorate are friction and impact sensitive, andalso the Permanganate. Potassium Perchlorate is the least sensitive of theChlorates.

All the chemicals should be crushed into a very fine powder, about 400 Meshor smaller. 400 Mesh is about like kitchen type flour.

Black German Aluminum is a brand name for aluminum powder. It has a partical

size of 600 Mesh for 98% of the aluminum material. The other 2% of the materialis larger than 600 Mesh. There are other aluminum powders made by othercompanies that are equal to or better than Black German Aluminum.

Aluminum Pyro Powder is also a brand name. The partical size is (98%-400)or 98% of the material is smaller than 400 Mesh. The other 2% is larger than400 Mesh.

FLASH POWDER FORMULAS



1. This formula is one of the best. It produces a very, very, extremely loudexplosion. Easy to ignite with a fuse. It is not moisture absorbent.Not very sensitive to impact or friction. Sodium Chlorate or Potassium Chloratecan be used instead of Potassium Perchlorate but it then becomes very sensitiveto friction and impact. 4 ounces of this mixture will produce an explosionequal to one stick of dynamite!

Potassium Perchlorate 2 oz.Aluminum Powder 600 Mesh 1 oz.

2. This formula produces and extremely loud explosion, almost as good asformula #1. This is what most firecrackers, M-80's and other fireworks aremade with.

Potassium Perchlorate 2 oz.Aluminum Powder 400 Mesh 1 oz.

3. This formula is equal to formula #2 It is not sensitive to friction or impact

Barium Peroxide 9 oz.50%/50% Magnesium aluminumpowder 200 Mesh 1 oz.

4. This formula works as good as formula #2 but it produces a very bright flash.This formula is what use to be used for the photo flash for the old box typecameras about 100 years ago

Barium Nitrate 3 oz.Potassium Perchlorate 3 oz.Aluminum Powder 400 Mesh 4 oz.

5. This formula works very good. It is not very impact or friction Sensitive. Itproduces a very, very loud explosion. Potassium Perchlorate contains 46.1914%oxygen. Half as powerful as #2.

Potassium Perchlorate 2 oz.

Sulfur 1 oz.Aluminum Powder 400 Mesh 1 oz.

6. This formula works as good as #5 but it has a disadvantage of being moistureabsorbent and it is very impact and friction sensitive. Sodium Chlorate contains45.0937% oxygen. Produces a very, very loud explosion. Equal to #5.

Sodium Chlorate 2 oz.Sulfur 1 oz.Aluminum Powder 400 Mesh 1 oz.

7. This formula is very dangerous because it is very sensitive to friction andimpact and could explode during the construction of any explosive device.

Potassium Chlorate contains 39.1664% oxygen. This formula produces and explosionalmost equal to #5 or #6. Used in the manufacture of toy cap pistol caps.

Potassium Chlorate 2 oz.Sulfur 1 oz.Aluminum Powder 1 oz.

8. This formula is very, very very sensitive to impact, friction and staticelectricity, even more sensitive than #7. Extremely dangerous! Will igniteeven when wet.



Potassium Chlorate 6.7 oz.Red Phosphorus 2.7 oz.Sulfur 0.3 oz.Calcium Carbonate 0.3 oz.

9. This formula has slightly less explosive power than #7. It is slightlyfriction and impact sensitive. Potassium Permanganate contains 40.4961% oxygen.This formula will ignite itself if it gets wet. Very loud explosion.

Potassium Permanganate 2 oz.Sulfur 1 oz.Aluminum Powder 1 oz.

10. This formula produces a very small explosion when ignited in a paper tube.A much louder explosion is produced when it is ignited in a very strongcontainer. It is impact and friction sensitive.

Potassium Chlorate 7.5 oz.Charcoal dust 1.5 oz.Sulfur 1.0 oz.

11. No information is available about this formula.

Potassium Chlorate 6 oz.Antimony Sulfide 3 oz.Sulfur 1 oz.

12. This formula is a little louder than formula #10. Impact and frictionsensitive. Produces a small explosion in a paper container.

Sodium Chlorate 7.5 oz.Charcoal dust 1.5 oz.Sulfur 1.0 oz.

13. No information is available about this formula.

Potassium Chlorate 7.5 oz.Gallic acid 2.2 oz.Red gum 0.3 oz.

!CAUTION!

The mixture of any chlorate with phosphorus or sulfur is extremely sensitive tofriction and percussion and explodes with great violence.

Chlorate explosives must not be stored together with ammonium nitrateexplosives, since ammonium chlorate which is formed when these two substancesare brought in contact, explodes.

When mixing chlorate explosives, crush all of the chemicals separately. Siftthe oxidizer through a piece of screen wire to break up the material into smallpieces. Then sift the other chemicals also if they need it.

Mix all of the flash powder chemicals together and mix well by sifting themthrough a piece of screen wire or by shaking them in a ZIP LOCK bag. Thismixture is very sensitive to friction, impact, heat, spark, static electricity4 ounces of flash powder has the same explosive power as one stick of dynamite.One gross of M-80 firecrackers is equal to 3 sticks of dynamite.



8 ounces of flash powder will make 100 M-80 type firecrackers if each M-80contains 1/2 teaspoon of flash powder.

M-80's with 1/4 teaspoon of flash powder produces an explosion that soundsalmost exactly the same as M-80's with 1/2 teaspoon of flash powder, but ithas less destructive power.

24 ounces of flash powder will make 100 M-100 type firecrackers. (And these areawsome!)

Quick Conversions:

3 teaspons = 1 tablespoon4 tablespoons = 1/4 cup1/4 cup = 2 oz.

M-80 & M-100 CONSTRUCTION-------------------------

1. PLUG ONE END OF THE PAPER TUBE.Run a small amount of Elmer's glue around the side of an end plug or the insideedge of the paper tube. Insert the end plug, convex side first, into the paper

tube. Push it in until the back edge of the plug is flush with the edge of thepaper tube.

2. FUSE THE PAPER TUBE.Using a 1/8 inch drill bit, an ice pick or a sharp nail, punch a hole throughone side of the paper tube in the middle. NEVER puncture a case that containsflash powder. The paper tube should always be fused before the flash powder isadded. Cut the fuse to 1 1/2 inches in length and insert it into the hole atleast halfway across the inside diameter of the paper tube. Run a small amountof Elmer's glue around the fuse and let it dry.

3. MIXING THE FLASH POWDERExtreme caution should be used when mixing flash powder. Flash powder is

extremely dangerous and explodes with great force. Avoid all sources offriction, impact, flame, sparks and static electricity.

4. FILL THE PAPER TUBESStand the paper tubes on end, open end up. Using a small funnel and a measuringspoon 1/2 teaspoon, fill the paper tubes 1/2 to 2/3 full. Do not fill the tubescompletely full or pack in the flash powder. By leaving an air space there isroom for the flash powder to expand when ignited which will produce a muchlouder explosion.

5. INSERT THE FINAL END PLUGPlug the open end in the same way that you plugged the first end.

MATERIALS NEEDED FOR ONE M-801. One paper tube, 1/2 inch inside diameter, 1/16 inch wall thickness,1 1/2 inches long.

2. Two paper end plugs 1/2 inch outside diameter, 1/16 inch paper thickness.

3. One 3/32 diameter water proof fuse about 1 1/2 inches long.

4. 1/2 teaspoon of flash powder.



5. 10 drops of Elmer's glue.

__ ___________ __ end | o | endplug __| ___________ |__ plug

fuse ^ hole

| ______|_____ |M80 or M100 | |____________|

MATERIALS NEED FOR ONE M-100----------------------------

1. One paper tube, 5/8 inch inside diameter, 1 3/4 inch long

2. Two paper end plugs 5/8 inch outside diameter.

3. One water proof fuse about 1 1/2 inches long.

4. 1 1/2 teaspoons of flash powder.5. 10 drops of Elmer's glue

CHEMICALS---------Most of the chemicals you need are sold at K-mart, hardware stores, drug stores,lumber yards, plumbing supply, Wall-mart, cement company and many other stores.

Sodium Chlorate. O2 solid oxygen pellets are used in small work shop torches.

Potassium Nitrate. Sold by most drug stores in 4 ounce bottles. Also sold byfarmers co-op supply stores.

Sulfur. Sold by farmers co-op, drug stores and lawn and garden centers.

Aluminum Powder. Sold by paint stores and auto parts stores. Aluminum powdercan be found in radiator stop leak.

Sodium Nitrate. Sold by drug stores and meat packing plants.

Antimony Sulfide. Is sold by most plumbing supply stores.

Potassium Permanganate. It is used for water treatment. Check your phone bookfor water treatment equipment and supplies.

Ammonium Nitrate. Can be bought from any farmers co-op or lawn and gardencenter.

Red Phosphorus. The white tip on wooden kitchen matches contains red phosphorus

Check your phone book yellow pages for industrial chemical supplies, they willusually have most of these chemicals.

When you call, tell them you are with a beginning rock band and want it forsome special effects on stage. They will fall for that every time...



Now you probably wonder where you can get the paper tubes and end caps. Okjust write:

FULL AUTO CO. INC.P.O. Box 1881Murfreesboro, TN. 37133

And ask for a catalog. M-80 size tubes are 100-$5. End plugs are 200-$3.5M-100 size tubes are 100-$9. End plugs are 200-$5. You must have an orderform to order this. They also sell all the chemicals you need to makeflash powder. You must be over 21 or at least sign the order that says thatyou are 21. There is no way that they can find out. I DO NOT suggest that youbuy their water proof fuse because it sucks! Go to a gun shop in your area andask for cannon fuse. It's probably around 35 to 40 cents a foot and is waterproof and MUCH better quality. You do have to be 16 or 18 to buy it.

[ ] *TWENTY WAYS TO DISRUPT SCHOOL ASSEMBLIES*

Basically anti-social, anti-establishment? Hate school? Who doesn't!Here's 20 things to screw up those JOCK-O-RAMA pep rallies and various othersenseless assemblies in your fascist school...just TRY to have fun..

1. When the cheerleaders start bouncing (literally) around trying to get all the wretched students to do their demonic, assinine chants (Beat 'em up

beat 'em up, rah rah rah! Snap those spinal cords, ha ha ha!" , you should get everyone to chant something like "The New Discipline Management Plan SUCKS - The New Discipline Management Plan SUCKS!" etc.

2. When the cheerleaders yell, "Are you ready!??"--You yell reeeal loud, "NO!"

3. After their cheers yell stuff like, "Violence Rulez! Guns R cool!And we've got guns, in our school!"

4. Yell cheerleader, twirlers, football players names when they are introduced or just simply to embarrass them...

5. Stand up and ask in a loud voice for one of the cheerleaders to marry you.

6. Say in a loud voice, "I gotta go to the bathroom!" then walk down in the middle of the pep rally and leave. If they try to stop you, just start hoping up and down like you can't hold it...They'll let ya go...when they say, "ok, you can go!", run as fast as

you can to aremote bathroom(i.e.-home) where they can't follow you...

7. When a twirler drops her baton or a cheerleader messes up, laugh as loud

as you can...i mean REALLY LAUGH HARD! 8. If like the principle comes up behind you and sits, turn around and say, "Ok, Mr. So-n-So, on the count of three yell, Down with Mr. So-n-So (his name in both places)

9. Get those air horns and rig it up to where when someone sits down, it'll go off....everone will look around dumbfounded to see who's doing it... They'll never know...



10. Water Balloons is a definate possibly, but i don't suggest it...yesterday at ours, i was playing with this purple balloon like a beachball...ya know, bouncing it between people and 'accidently' letting it get away from you where hopefully someone will pop it...or you could just pop a few yourself

11. If you're terribly brave or stupid you can stand up and yell, "East Lubbock/Wherever Rulez!" or "Beaners suck!"

12. The airhead cheerleaders ask you to yell, right? Yell at all times... even when it's supposed to be semi-quiet...

13. Make a fire.

14. Spray the cheerleaders pom-poms with that dog training stuff or fart spray

15. If you're in the band, play the music that you think is more suiting for a pep rally...

16. Scream anti-scholastic things during the school song

17. DO a complete reversal and dance to the fight song...(this one is good if you are sitting near the front or the middle)...just stand up and dance and sing the words if ya know 'em!

18. (this one is unlikely for some reason...) Write your name or the opposing teams name on the gym/football field with like kerosine and light'er up!

19. Get snap -n- pops and sit at the top and throw 'em at everone.(heh)

20. Lock 'em up! That's right! Get chains and lock all doors to the gym... ..then ya got 2000 angry students with only 15 teachers..I dunno who would want out worse, the students or the teachers...heh.

(I tried alot of these for the first pep rally of the season at my stupid private school...I didn't get to try the things that required planning

(burning the school down, lock ups, air horn, ect) but I did do all of the yells and dancing and proposing marriage, chanting, singing, ect.)

Thanks to myself for writing this file, and the corrupt administrators for giving me something to write about...

[ ] * How to have fun at school *

Your first day of school you should bring the following items, to insure aprosperous school year:

1) Fountain pen (and extra ink refills)

2) 3 tubes of Super Glue (Krazy Glue) 3) Pennies (about $1.00 worth) 4) Baloons (small sized for convieniance) 5) Mirror (small hand held) 6) Liquid soap 7) Lighter, (matches as alternate) 8) Firecrackers (ladyfingers are great) 9) Screwdrivers and other tools (small) 10) Small squeezable bottles (like nasal de-congestant type) 11) Wire (10-20 ft)



12) Tape recorder mic. (batter operated pref.) 13) Ziplock baggies 14) Half of an orange 15) Ligth bulb (75 watts and over are great)

This will do for now... Some of the cool things to do are, take the penniesand glue them to the cafeteria tables, (and watch the custodians try to get'em off). (this also looks good with silver dollars glued to the fire alarm(so it goes off when the custodian attempts to remove the coin) and to a doorsomeplace.... (principals preferably))

Another thing to do with a coin is, heat it up over a bunson burner (in chem)and just as the bell rings, toss the coin into the hall, I will guarantee youwill know when the coin is picked up... While your using the bunson burner,fill your little squeeze bottle with gas, then cap it tight and put it in yourpocket... later, take a firecracker, and glue it to the bottle, use acigarette as a fuse extension, then put it in the bathroom, and get to classfast... (gas and glue make a nice flame)...

While your in the bathroom, place a light bulb over the door, and when thesuperintendant goes to see what the explosion was, he gets a nice littlesurprise...

Now for the wire, if you can access a room near your locker, when no one is in

the room, take off the speaker cover on the pa system, and hook 2 wires fromit, to your mic. ( then into your locker) This is good for getting yourfriends out of classes... Just ask for them... (use your tools for that one,and try to be neat about it)...

Now for your mirror, you can use this for getting your, uh... "Friends" lockercombanation.... after you get that, take that little baggie you got, and putthe orange in it... let it sit for a week or four, then open the baggie, andplace it in your friends locker... I can guarentee he/she will love it...

Another thing that is fun to do, is, Take a penny, and glue it over the keyhole on your friends gym locker, just after he goes out, thus he has to truckaround all day in his gym stuff, (unless you rent him your screwdriver to pry

the penny off)Ballons are fun to play with in chem lab, fill them with the gas that you getout of the taps on the lab desks, then tie up the baloon tight, and drop itout the window to the burnouts below, you know, the ones that are alwayssmoking, they love to pop baloons with lit cigaretts.... get the picture?Good...

Those fountain pens are cool, because if you make a slight jerking motion withyour hand, ink squirts all over the room, (or person, what ever your aimingat) It is a good idea not to let the teachers know you have one of those, itmakes it too easy to find out who did it when theres ink all over theprincipals face... (or on the floors, walls, and ceilings...)

Liquid soap is great for use in crowded hallways, it turns everybody into aice skating star, (works especially well when people come in from the rain)...If your school is anything like the one I goto, people never flush thetoiletts, A little liquid soap in here makes for a nice surprise, I mean, whathappens when the soap is not flushed out of the toilett, and the suds are'ntflushed out either? The janitors have a really good time trying to figure outthat one... (glue a quarter in one of the urinals, always ane)... Turn off thewater under the sinks too... Getting back to the soap, it is also good on thehand railings in hallways and on steps, If you mix perfume with it, some poor



grub has to have that stench on him all day....

I shall start off with some of the cool aspects of a school cafeteria. As mostof you know, this is not a very nice place, or atleast it's not very nice in myschool., you have to get out there and catch the food before it gets away...but in any case...

1) School Cafeterias: In this ever growing world of terrorism, and practicaljokes, you should learn the basic methods and uses of ketchup. This red stuffthat they use to cover the mold on the french-fries, makes a nice stain onpeoples clothing. So... take a few packets of ketchup, and during phys. Ed.you take the pack and put little holes in it, then put it in someones backpocket, (preferably white pants), do this while they are out in the gym, andyou are alone in the locker room... It's a gas when they get up after pullingtheir pants on and there 'Bleeding...'...

2) Marbles are very cool... especially glass ones and steel ones, what you dois, get into your 'Friends' locker and (if he/she has a shelf) take a book andbrace it up at an angle, and leave them alot of marbles to play with... sowhen they open their locker, they should have no problem watching them spillall over the floor... then they get little questions like 'Hey man, did youloose all your marbles?' and 'Is this a throw back to your child hood?'. Thisis even better when they have to go out in the middle of a class period andwhen all the marbles fall out he has teachers all over him asking 'What do you

think your doing?' and the ever popular 'Wheres your pass?'...3) You can improve on the marbles scheme by using water/perfume filled baloonsor plastic baggies. 'Cause, howd you like to go around smelling like a flowerall day long (if your a boy), if your a girl, then your a wet flower... your'Friend' walks down the hallway 'Squish. Squish Squish' from all the water intheir sneakers...

4) Do any of your parents have old contact lens fluid bottles? (small) If sothen your in luck... if you fill these with water and walk down a crowded hallyou can have alot of fun... Spray your victem so it looks like he/she took aleak in thier pants... in a crowded hall-way, the'll never notice till someonesays.. 'Hey, Professor Leaky... Turn off the faucets...'... If you want to be

even meaner, then you can take the bottle and fill it with the juices from arotten egg.. now its' one thing to piss in your pants, but if you go aroundsmelling like rotten eggs all day, whew... I can almost guarntee a suspensionor a free trip home... (very embarrasing)...

5) During your free period, goto a pay phone and call the front office, andhave your victim paged to the front office... tell the front office that youare the boy/girls father and your coming to pick them up for an emergencydoctors appointment... and to go and get his/her books... then they sit in thefront office for 1/2 an hour, (and miss class).. then they say ' Hey, did youand some of your friends pull this stunt so you wouldnt have to gotoclass?!?!.. Goto the principals office NOW!' Good 'eh?

6) Heres some fun to have at the library... goto the magazine rack and replacethe Sports Ill. and the other widely read magazines with Playboy and some ofthe others... (rip off the Sports. Ill. cover and put Playboy inside) Youshould see the expressions on the girls faces when they open that sucker up...(or on the teachers faces)...

7) Hide a cheap radio ($3.00 things that you get from radio shack (am)) andset it to blast when the locker is opend. (set it on some queer station) Toset the wiring up.. Open up the radio and disconnect one of the wires going tothe switch, turn the switch on. Now take the wire you just disconnected and



dunk you. Light the candle and get out of the bathroom as calmly as possible. You have anywhere from thirty seconds to one minute so you have time to wash your hands and act normal. Make sure that you are nowhere NEAR the bathroom because the teachers will interogate anyone in the vicinity of the area.

Now you can have a BLAST at school! (Litterally)

*The Cigarette Flash* Materials: Filterless Cigarette Lighter Small Viel of Thinner Matchbook

This on is FUN! Splash the thinner all over the toilet paper in the stall. Open the matchbook and place the cigarette in the match book so

that the matchbook holds the cigarette in place firmly. Place thecombination matchbook/cigarette under the toilet paper any way you can fit

it in there. Now the fun part. Light the cigarette and get out of the stallcalmly. With this you have between two and five minutes (2-5) so you have

plenty of time to act normal and leave the bathroom at a steady pace!!

/\ /CC\

/ \\ <---- Place the cigarette between the top and the matches / \\

___________ | TTTTTTT | | TTTTTTT | <---- Put the matchbook/cigarette under the thinner soaked | Match | toilet paper. -----------

Now have FUN! And be smart....don't spill the thinner all over yourself unless you want to burn in hell (Pun)!! Hello! And welcometo...ummm...issue #6 of Firecracker FUN! In this issue we will discuss the FLAMER which is the final issue of mild

firecracker fun. The next 5-8 issues will be called: "Flaming GLORY!" and will hols some more potent things OTHER THAN firecrackers and oil! Sooo....I hope that you enjoyed this series and I REALLY hope that you look forward to all my future series and issues!

Materials: 1/4 gallon gasoline 1/4 gallon oil 6 inch candle LOTS of toilet paper!!!

This one is scary....and FUN! At home mix the 1/4 gallon ofgasoline with the 1/4 gallon of oil. Place the mixture in a gallon bag

that is easy to conceal. At school put the toilet paper in the toilet

until it reaches the level of the water. Take the candle and place itfirmly into the toilet paper so that it will stay upright for about 5 minutes. After all that slowly pour the mixture gas/oil into the toilet. Light the candle and you will have 10-15 minutes to get out. This one is pretty scary if you are in the bathroom at the time! There is NO noise

but if you are anywhere NEAR the stall you will see a LARGE flame leap up into the air!! KEWL!

[ ] * Fun with Fireworks *



There are MANY ways to have fun with firecrackers....but the best are when you can actually use them. My favorite ways are the Tube, the rocket, and the big bang.

The tube us a relatively normal arrangement...just that all thebottle rockets should go off at the same time. But what you do is takethree or four bottle rockets (the kind with the plastic caps) and fillthe caps with some type of contact explosive. Then tape them all togetherwith duct or electric tape. Then tie all the fuses together and placeinto a metal tube. Light fuse and have fun....try not to blow off yourhand or other body part! By the way....you do not really need to fill

the cap with an explosive....but it add's to the BANG!!

---------000000> <---- Fill cap with contact explosive

---------00XX00> ---------00XX00> <---- Tape all together! ---------00XX00>

---------00XX00> ---------00XX00> <---- Tie all fuses together ---------00XX00>

Place them in a pipe and have fun

*The Rocket* Materials: A 2 or 3 Stage Rocket Superglue Tape Shredded Paper M-80 firecracker All other equipment for launching

Any 2 or 3 stage rocket will work fine. You must be willing toto loose a rocket so I suggest not painting, because it would be just

a waste of time and money. You can get a good 3 stage rocket for under

$30 and the M-80's you can buy at almost any firecracker store forbetween $.80 - $1.00!!

First put the rocket together. Then place the boosters in thebottom stage(s). In the uppermost stage glue the M-80 into place with

the fuse pointing downward. Place the end of the fuse onto the upperpart of the adjoining booster and tape it into place with a small piece

of tape. Fill the paracute area sparcely with shredded paper. Wait until the glue holding the M-80 dries and then finish putting the rocket

together. Now you are ready to go! But be smart...don't launch the rocket in someone's face or into a building unless you are willing to take responsibility for it! And try not to kill yourself in the process!

What is supposed to happen is as you launch the rocket the first stage's booster burns with an extremely high intensty and heat. As the booster nears the to it ignites a flameable substance that pushes upward igniting the booster above it and ejecting it from the rest of the rocket. When the substance shoots upward into the M-80 it will ignite the fuse or it will detonate the M-80 immediatly (I am not sure which). Then as the

M-80 detonates it will blow the cap of the rocket off ejecting anything in the paracute chamber.

BBBBOOOOOOO> <---- Place booster in the bottom stage(s)



BBBBM-80OOO> <---- Glue M-80 in stage above booster and tape fuse BBBBM-80PPP> <---- Put shredded paper in paracute chamber

*Big BANG*

Materials: 10-15 M-80's Long fuse...2 feet Duct or Electric Tape LUCK!!!

Ok. Now. Put all the M-80's into a circle packed as tightlytogether as possible. Next put two or even three layers of tape arround

the group of M-80's. Connect all the fuses together pointing inward and tie (If you tape it use as little tape as possible) it to the long

piece of fuse. Then place upright or if you want to have fun, bury it a foot underground (if you do this you must have a straw or a pipe leading the fuse into the ground) and light the fuse. Now what you have here is

like two or three sticks of dynamite, so get as far away as possibleand hit the ground!! The explosion will be a HELL of a lot louder than

a small stick of dynamite so cover your ears, don't be a hero and godeaf!

[ ] *How To Make Low Explosives*

There are many formulas for low explosives, which, although they do not have thepower or impact of the high explosives, are generally safer to use and handle.It may seem at first that an explosive compound that has less power is adisadvantage, but this is not true. If a high-explosive charge were used to setoff a bullet in a gun, the gun would probably explode in the user's face.Therefore, low explosives have a definite purpose and use, and are notinterchangeable with high explosives. Although I stated above that, generallyspeaking, low explosives are more stable than high explosives, there are somelow-explosive compounds that are as dangerous as high-explosive compounds,if not more so. Below is a chart of the most common low-explosive compounds andtheir stabilities and merit.

[Potassium and sodium nitrate gunpowders]: These are without a doubt one of the safest low explosives to handle. They are especially good whenpacked into a tight container, and exploded under pressure.

[Smokeless powder]: This type of low explosive is much like the one mentioned above, in the sense that it is extremely stable, but it is much more powerful. It also needs the element of pressure in the actual demolition work.[Potassium chlorates with sulfates]: Any mixture of potassium or sodium chlorates should be avoided at all costs, since most combinations will explode immediately, on formation, and those that don't are extremely unstable and likely to explode at any time.[Ammonium nitrate with chlorates]: This is similar to the compounds discussed above. These are extremely hazardous compounds, with very unstable

ingredients.[Potassium chlorate and red phosphorus]: This combination is probably the most unstable and highly sensitive of all the low explosives. It will explode immediately and violently upon formation, even in the open when not under pressure.[Aluminum or megnesium with potassium chlorate or sodium peroxide]: Any of these combinations, although not quite as unstable as the one discussed above, is still too sensitive to experiment or play around with.[Barium chlorate with shellac gums]: Any mixture employing either barium or



barium nitrate and carbon, or barium chlorate and any other substance, must be given great care. Barium nitrate and strontium nitrate mixed together form a very sensitive explosive, but the danger is greatly increased with the addition of charcoal, or carbon.[Barium and strontium nitrate with aluminum and potassium perchlorate]: This combination is relatively safe, as is the combination of barium nitrate and sulfur, potassium nitrate, and most other powdered metals.[Guanidine nitrate and a combustible]: This combination of guanidine nitrate and a combustible (i.e. powdered antimony) is one of the safest of all low explosives.[Potassium bichromate and potassium permanganate]: This is a very sensitive and unstable compound, and should be avoided, as it is really too hazardous to work with or handle.

The low-explosive reaction is based on the principle of a combustiblematerial combined with an oxidizing agent, in other words combining a materialthat burns easily with another material which in the chemical reaction willsupply the necessary oxygen for the combustible's consumption. Listed beloware the most common low-explosive combinations of oxidizing agents andcombustibles. The first ingredient listed is the oxidizer, and the second isthe combustible: [1> Nitric acid and resin. [2> Barium nitrate and magnesium. [3> Ammonium nitrate and powdered aluminum.

[4> Barium peroxide and zinc dust. [5> Ammonium perchlorate and asphaltum. [6> Sodium chlorate and shellac gum. [7> Potassium nitrate and charcoal. [8> Sodium peroxide and flowers of sulfur. [9> Magnesium perchlorate and woodmeal. [10> Potassium perchlorate and cane sugar. [11> Sodium nitrate and sulfur flour. [12> Potassium bichromate and antimony sulfide. [13> Guanidine nitrate and powdered antimony. [14> Potassium chlorate and red phosphorus. [15> Potassium permanganate and powdered sugar. [16> Barium chlorate and parrafin wax.

The combinations that are most unstable and sensitive are numbers 3, 5, 7, 13, 14, 15, and 16. These should be avoided.

[ ] * How to Make Nitroglycerine

As most people know, nitroglycerin is an extremely powerful explosive,used largely today by industry, and made in huge cement mixers that holdhundreds of gallons. It is not safe to make, and you shouldn't even think ofmaking any unless you plan to use it (and don't make more than you need). Ihope anyone who does make some has had atleast some chemistry and a little bitof brains.

MATERIALS: 1) 70% concentrated nitric acid 2) 98% concentrated sulfuric acid 3) Glycerin 4) Baking soda 5) A *GOOD* thermometer and glassware (beakers, glass rod-stirring device, test tubes, eyedropper, whatever--must be all glass materials though. Acid eats everything else. Also, whatever you use to hold your solutions should have as thin a glass wall as possible--to diffuse heat faster.)



6) Very large ice-bath 7) Gloves, Goggles, etc. 8) Blue litmus paper 9) Kitchen sink

OBTAINING MATERIALS: Nitric acid can be bought for about $19+ per gallon (it's cheaper to buyin this quantity). You need to be 21, but some chemical places don't care. Sulfuric acid can be bought the same way, at $14+ per gallon. Glycerine can be bought at any drug store. You won't need half as muchglycerine as acid. The actual quantity and ratio varies--and is reallyunimportant in this recipe. The thermometer and glassware, etc., can be bought by anyone, but it'scheaper to 'borrow' from chem lab. If you have to buy, there should be aplace near any college campus that sells the stuff.

THE REACTION:

H !H-C-O-NO2 !H-C-O-NO2 ===========> N2 + CO2 + O2 + H2O !

H-C-O-NO2 ! H

PROCEDURE: 1) Mix by volume 3 parts sulfuric acid with 1 part nitric. Add thesulfuric to the nitric *NOT* vice versa (you never add water to acid becauseit splatters, and the nitric is 30% water). Your beaker/test tube should becontained in the ice bath because this solution is gets *HOT*--but isn'tdangerous, yet. Stir a little bit, but don't put your face right over it(vapors). Wait til it cools to 0-5 degrees centigrade. You'll need to rigsome kind of contraption, if you don't have the proper lab equipment, in orderto keep the thermometer from touching the edge of the beaker/test tube--an

accurate reading is *VERY* important. 2) Once the acids are cool enough you can start adding glycerin. Whilestirring constantly, use the eyedropper and add about 5 drops. If the heatdoesn't rise, add 8 drops, and see what happens. Keep adding larger amountsuntil the temperature rises. Once it does, wait (don't stop stirring til atleast 30 seconds after adding glycerine) for the temperature to drop back downto 0-5 degreees centigrade. DON'T EVER LET THE TEMPERATURE GET ABOVE 30DEGREES CENTIGRADE--If you do, you lose. It might not blow up, but it willdecompose, and you'll get nothing but garbage (the person who designed thisrecipe has had it go as high as 40 and not explode). To be safe, keep itbelow 20 degrees centigrade, and if it gets above that, dump the whole thingin the ice bath (there better be plenty of ice too, cause sulfur and waterreact, and you need plenty of ioce to keep that reaction cool). The

nitroglycerin reaction is done when the glycerine you add no longer affects thetemperature. 3) The nitroglycerin is slowly decomposing at this point, so you want towork fast here. The sulfuric has only been a catalyst for the reaction andneeds to be washed out. Fill a container 10x the volume of your solution withice water (again, ice is important cause sulfur and water react giving offenough heat to set off the nitro) and add your solution to it. Stirthoroughly (nitro and water don't mix). Let the nitro seperate (it willsettle to the bottom) and pour off the water (acids and all) down the drain.Put your saolution under the tap and add more water. Stir again and let



settle (settling can be helped by adding a little of ordinary dishsoap--likehalf a drop). Pour off again. Repeat the process 3 or 4 times. Make sure*ALL* the water is poured off (to get the last little bit, try dragging paperit stays blue, everything is fine. If it turns red, wash your solution a fewmore times. 4) After the solution is 'clean', wash with a baking soda solution (1tsp./ quart of water). Follow the same steps outlined above, but only washonce. Pour your final solution into a glass bottle. Put in the fridge.

CAUTIONS: First of all, store nitroglycerin in a cool place--like the fridge (or trythe freezer. I don't know what the freezing point is). Label it so nobodyaccidently dumps it or drinks it. If you still live at home, then bury it inthe fridge and disguise it so your parents wouldn't want to touch it orexamine it. You don't really need to keep it that cold. You could fairlysafely store it in your closet. Although if you live in an area with extremeheat (like Palm Springs) it might not be a good idea. Don't breath the vaporsor swallow any--you'll get a short but incredible headache. If you touch someyou'll get the headache of your life that will last up to 12 hours.

DETONATION: What you wil probably want to try as soon as you make nitroglycerin is asimple little experiment to prove to yourself it works. Put *ONE* drop on apaper towell and strike with a hammer.

Nitro, in this form, is not all that easy to blow up. Throwing a bottleof the stuff at a wall or dropping it off a five story building will donothing more than break the bottle. The best way to detonate nitroglycerin iswith a wax coated firecracker taped on the inside of your container.

VARIATIONS: Putty- Mix your final solution with sawdust or diatomacious earth (whichyou can get at pool stores) to the consistency of silly putty. All this doesis make your nitro easier to work with.

Flash Paper- This is a little more difficult to make, a little safer, andmaybe more fun. Instead of adding glycerin to your acids in step 2, use guncotton (*REAL* cotton). You don't have to watch the temperature either. Just

toss a bunch of cotton in and let it soak up your solution (don't be stupidthough--add them slowly the first time). You don't need to be in as much of arush either because it doesn't decompose as fast. You're nitrating thecotton, so let it sit a couple hours in the mix. Then pour off all the acidand wash in water (the same way you wash regular nitro), then after it'sfairly clean you can pull out the cotton and wash by hand--*VERY WELL*. Letthe cotton dry out, then put a piece in a jar with a very small amount ofacitone (which you can purchase at any hardware store and is perfectly safe).The cotton will dissolve like cotton candy in water. Any cotton left in thejar should be taken out. Now let the acitone evaporate. There will be asmall plastic-like film at the bottom of the jar. You can light this stufflike flash paper. Jelly- If you are brave you can dissolve the 'flash paper' in nitro and

get a jelly like substance that is quite powerful and easier to work with.Use very little nitro and a lot of 'flash paper' (you'll have to experiment tofind what works best for the consistency you want.

[ ] * How to make Nitroglycerine #2 *1. Fill a 75-milliliter beaker, to the 13-ml level, with fuming red Nitric Acid, of 98 percent concentration2. Place beaker in an ice bath and allow to cool below room temperature3. After it has cooled, add to it three times the amount of fuming Nitric Acid 39 milliliters of fuming Sulfuric Acid. When mixing any acids,



always do it slowly and carefully to avoid splattering.4. When the two are mixed, lower their temperature by adding more ice to the

ice bath, to about 10 or 15 degrees centigrade. This can be measured by using a mercury-operated centigrade thermometer.5. When the acid solution has cooled to the desired temperature, it is ready for the Glycerine. The Glycerine must be added in small amounts using a

medicine dropper. Glycerine is added, slowly and carefully, until the entire surface is covered with it.6. This is a dangerous point, since the nitration will take place soon as the Glycerine is added. The nitration will produce heat, so the solution must be kept below 30 degrees Celsius. If the beaker should go above 30 degrees, the beaker should be taken out of the ice bath and the solution should be carefully poured directly into the ice bath, since this will prevent an explosion7. For about the first ten minutes of nitration, the mixture should be gently stirred. In a normal reaction, the Nitroglycerine will form a layer on top of the acid solution, while the Sulfuric Acid absorbs the excess water.8. After the nitration has taken place and the Nitroglycerine has formed at the top of the solution, the entire beaker should be transferred very slowly and carefully to another beaker of water. When this is done the Nitroglycerine will settle to the bottom, so that most of the acid solution can be drained away.9. After moving as much acid as possible without disturbing the

Nitroglycerine, remove the Nitroglycerine with an eyedroper and place it in a bicarbonate of soda (Sodium Bicarbonate) solution. The Sodium Bicarbonate is an alkali and will nutralize much of the acid remaining. This process should be repeated as many times as necessary using blue litmus paper to check for the presence of acid. The remaining acid only makes the Nitroglycerine more unstable then it normally is.10. The final step is to remove the Nitroglycerine from the bicarbonate this is done with an eyedropper, slowly and carefully. The usual test to see if nitration has been successful is to place one drop of the Nitroglycerine on a metal plate and ignite it. If it is true Nitroglycerine it will burn with a clear blue flame. Caution: Nitroglycerine is extremely sensitive to decomposition, heating, dropping, or jarring, and may explode even left undisturbed and cool.

Know what you are doing before you make this stuff.[*Nitroglycerine #3*]

Nitroglycerine is one of the most sensitive explosives, if it is notthe most sensitive. Although it is possible to make it safely, it is difficult.Many a young anarchist has been killed or seriously injured while trying tomake the stuff. When Nobel's factories make it, many people were killed by theall-to-frequent factory explosions. Usually, as soon as it is made, it isconverted into a safer substance, such as dynamite. An idiot who attemptsto make nitroglycerine would use the following procedure:

MATERIAL EQUIPMENT

distilled water eye-dropper table salt 100 ml beaker sodium bicarbonate 200-300 ml beakers (2) concentrated nitric ice bath container acid (13 ml) ( a plastic bucket serves well ) concentrated sulfuric centigrade thermometer acid (39 ml) blue litmus paper glycerine



NITROGLYCERINE IS A *VERY* DANGEROUS SHOCK SENSITIVE EXPLOSIVE. IT ISUSEDIN MAKING DYNAMITE, AMONG OTHER THINGS. I AM NOT SURE AS TO THE PROPORTIONS AND AMOUNTS OF CHEMICALS TO BEUSED, SO I SHALL USE ESTIMATES.

MATERIALS- 70ML CONC. SULFURIC ACID 30ML CONC. NITRIC ACID 10 ML GLYCERINE ICE BATH 150ML BEAKER

PUT THE 150ML BEAKER IN THE ICE BATH AND MAKE SURE THAT IT IS VERY COLD.SLOWLY ADD THE 70ML SULFURIC AND 30ML NITRIC ACIDS TO THE BEAKER, TRYING TOMAINTAIN A LOW TEMPERATURE. WHEN THE TEMPERATURE STARTS TO LEVEL OFF, ADDABOUT 10MLGLYCERINE. IF IT TURNS BROWN OR LOOKS FUNNY, **RUN LIKE HELL**. WHENNITROGLYCERINE TURNS BROWN, THAT MEANS IT'S READY TO EXPLODE... IF IT STAYS CLEAR AND

ALL WORKS WELL, KEEP THE TEMPERATURE AS LOW AS YOU CAN AND LET IT SIT FOR AFEW HOURS. YOU THEN SHOULD HAVE SOME NITROGLYCERINE, PROBABLY MIXED WITHNITRIC AND SULFURIC ACIDS. WHEN YOU SET IT OFF, YOU MUST NOT BE NEARBY. NITROGLYCERINECANFILL 10,000 TIMES ITS ORIGINAL AREA WITH EXPANDING GASES. THIS MEANS THATIF YOU HAVE 10ML'S OF NITROGLYCERINE IN THERE, IT WILL PRODUCE SOME 100,000ML'SOF GASES. TO MAKE IT INTO DYNAMITE, THE NITROGLYCERINE MUST BE ABSORBED INTO

SOMETHING LIKE WOOD PULP OR DIAMAECEOUS EARTH (SPELLED SOMETHING LIKE THAT).

[ ] * Formulas For The Straight Dynamite Series *

Probably one of the single greatest breakthroughs in explosives cameby accident, when Nobel discovered a primitive form of dynamite. One of theprimary ingredients of dynamite is nitroglycerine, which has great explosivepower, although it has the disadvantage of being ultrasensitive to heat andshock. What dynamite does is to combine the high explosive power of nitro witha stabilizing agent, to render it powerful but safely usable. Nobel developedwhat is called today the straight dynamite series, which is nothing more than

nitro and a stabilizing agent. The most common straight dynamite formulasfollow (nitroglycerine will be referred to as NG):

[1> NG 32 [10> NG 26 sodium nitrate 28 potassium nitrate 33 woodmeal 10 woodmeal 41 ammonium oxalate 29 guncotton 1 [11> NG 15 sodium nitrate 62.9[2> NG 24 woodmeal 21.2



potassium nitrate 9 sodium carbonate .9 sodium nitrate 56

woodmeal 9 [12> NG 35 ammonium oxalate 2 sodium nitrate 37 woodmeal 27[3> NG 35.5 ammonium oxalate 1 potassium nitrate 44.5 woodmeal 6 [13> NG 32 guncotton 2.5 potassium nitrate 27 vaseline 5.5 woodmeal 10 powdered charcoal 6 ammonium oxalate 30 guncotton 1[4> NG 25 potassium nitrate 26 [14> NG 33 woodmeal 34 woodmeal 10.3 barium nitrate 5 ammonium oxalate 29 starch 10 guncotton .7 potassium perchloride 27[5> NG 57

potassium nitrate 19 [15> NG 40 woodmeal 9 sodium nitrate 45 ammonium oxalate 12 woodmeal 15 guncotton 3 [16> NG 47

[6> NG 18 starch 50 sodium nitrate 70 guncotton 3 woodmeal 5.5 potassium chloride 4.5 [17> NG 30 chalk 2 sodium nitrate 22.3 woodmeal 40.5[7> NG 26 potassium chloride 7.2 woodmeal 40 barium nitrate 32 [18> NG 50 sodium carbonate 2 sodium nitrate 32.6 woodmeal 17[8> NG 44 ammonium oxalate .4 woodmeal 12

anhydrous sodium sulfate 44 [19> NG 23 potassium nitrate 27.5[9> NG 24 woodmeal 37 potassium nitrate 32.5 ammonium oxalate 8 woodmeal 33.5 barium nitrate 4 ammonium oxalate 10 calcium carbonate .5

The figures given in the right column are percentage parts, addingup to a sum of 100%. Percentage parts are always based on a weight ratiorather than volume. When preparing any high-explosive formulas, be sure youknow what you are doing. Have the correct equipment, and the correctchemicals. Many of these chemicals are sold under brand names, which are morefamiliar than their chemical names, but, before assuming anything, read the

ingredients, and take nothing for granted. These formulas listed above are for straight dynamite. Straightdynamite is a very primitive form of what we know today as dynamite. Laterammonium nitrate was added to the dynamite. This substance produced agreater explosive action, but less velocity. The intensification of theexplosive action results because ammonium nitrate furnishes more oxygen forthe dynamite. Ammonium nitrate has not only been used in dynamite, but alsoin many other different explosive compounds, including nitroglycerine,picric acid, and coal dust. Ammonium nitrate when mixed with these substancescreates the cheapest form of high explosive known to man.



[ ] *How To Make TNT*

[*TNT*] The name dynamite comes from the Greek word "dynamis", meaning power.Dynamite was invented by Nobel shortly after he made nitroglycerine. It wasmade because nitroglycerine was so dangerously sensitive to shock. A misguidedindividual with some sanity would, after making nitroglycerine (an insane act)would immediately convert it to dynamite. This can be done by adding variousmaterials to the nitroglycerine, such as sawdust. The sawdust holds a largeweight of nitroglycerine per volume. Other materials, such as ammonium nitratecould be added, and they would tend to desensitize the explosive, and increasethe power. But even these nitroglycerine compounds are not really safe.

T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene, is perhaps the second oldest known highexplosive. Dynamite, of course, was the first. It is certainly the best knownhigh explosive, since it has been popularized by early morning cartoons. Itis the standard for comparing other explosives to, since it is the most wellknown. In industry, a T.N.T. is made by a three step nitration process that isdesigned to conserve the nitric and sulfuric acids which are used to make theproduct. A terrorist, however, would probably opt for the less economical onestep method. The one step process is performed by treating toluene with verystrong (fuming) sulfuric acid. Then, the sulfated toluene is treated with verystrong (fuming) nitric acid in an ice bath. Cold water is added the solution,

and it is filtered. Probably the most inportant explosive compound in use today isTNT (trinitrotoluene). This and other types of high explosives are all used bythe military, because of their fantastic power--about 2.25 million pounds persquare inch, and their great stability. TNT also has the great advantage ofbeing able to be melted at 82 degrees F., so that it can be poured into shells,mortars, and any other projectiles. Military TNT comes in containers whichresemble dry-cell batteries, and are usually ignited by an electrical charge,coupled with an electrical blasting cap, although there are different methods.

[ ] *How To Make Tetryl*

Tetryl is commonly used in compounds containing TNT, and it works greatby itself. Method for the preperation of tetryl:

1. A small amount of dimethyllaniline is dissolved in an excess amount ofconcentrated sulfuric acid (sulferic acid=battery acid). 2. This mixture is now added to an equal amount of nitric acid. The newmixture is kept in an ice bath and is well stirred. 3. After about five minutes, the tetryl is fltered and washed in cold water. 4. It is now boiled in fresh water, which contains a small amount of sodiumbicarbonate(baking soda). This process acts to neutralize the remaining acid.The washings are repeated as many times as necesary according to the litmuspaper tests. When you are satisfied that the tetryl is free of acid, filter itfrom the water and allow it to dry. When tetryl is detonated, it reacts in

very much the same way as TNT.2.0 BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS

Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun store anda pharmacy. These are two of the places that potential terrorists visit inorder to purchase explosive material. All that one has to do is know somethingabout the non-explosive uses of the materials. Black powder, for example,is used in blackpowder firearms. It comes in varying "grades", with eachdifferent grade being a slightly different size. The grade of black powder



depends on what the calibre of the gun that it is used in; a fine grade ofpowder could burn too fast in the wrong caliber weapon. The rule is:the smaller the grade, the faster the burn rate of the powder.

[ ] * BLACK POWDER *

Black powder is generally available in three grades. As stated before,the smaller the grade, the faster the powder burns. Burn rate is extremelyimportant in bombs. Since an explosion is a rapid increase of gas volume ina confined environment, to make an explosion, a quick-burning powder isdesirable. The three common grades of black powder are listed below, alongwith the usual bore width (calibre) of what they are used in. Generally,the fastest burning powder, the FFF grade is desirable. However, the othergrades and uses are listed below:

GRADE BORE WIDTH EXAMPLE OF GUN

F .50 or greater model cannon; some rifles FF .36 - .50 large pistols; small rifles FFF .36 or smaller pistols; derringers

The FFF grade is the fastest burning, because the smaller grade hasmore surface area or burning surface exposed to the flame front. The larger

grades also have uses which will be discussed later. The price range ofblack powder, per pound, is about $8.50 - $9.00. The price is not affectedby the grade, and so one saves oneself time and work if one buys the finergrade of powder. The major problems with black powder are that it can beignited accidentally by static electricity, and that it has a tendency toabsorb moisture from the air. To safely crush it, a bomber would use a plasticspoon and a wooden salad bowl. Taking a small pile at a time, he or she wouldapply pressure to the powder through the spoon and rub it in a series of strokesor circles, but not too hard. It is fine enough to use when it is about as fineas flour. The fineness, however, is dependant on what type of device one wishesto make; obviously, it would be impracticle to crush enough powder to fill a 1foot by 4 inch radius pipe. Anyone can purchase black powder, since anyone canown black powder firearms in America.

[ ] * Gun Powder *Charcoal 13%

Saltpeter 75% Sulfur 12%

-85% Potassium Nitrate 75% Potassium Nitrate -12% Charcoal 15% Charcoal -03% Sulfur 10% Sulfur(Saltpeter is Sodium Nitrate or Potassium Nitrate)Mix dry, add water to make past, let dry, then crush to grain. Do not usemetal object when crushing. The chemicals should be ground into a fine powder(seperately!) with a morter ^ pestle. If gunpowder is ignited in the open,

it burns fiercly, but if in a closed space it builds up pressure from thereleased gases and can explode the container. Gunpowder works like this:The potassium nitrate oxidized the charcoal and sulfur, which then burnfiercely. Carbon dioxide and sulfur dioxide are gases released.

[ ] * Formulas For Black Powder *

Gunpowder is the great-granddaddy of all the rest of the high andlow power explosives, and still to this day is one of the most important



explosives. As with all the rest of the explosive formulas, it seems everyonehas his own recipe, which he claims to be the best. I have collected 11 of thesafer, more functional, methods of preparing gunpowder. The most importantthing to remember when dealing with black powder is its incredible sensitivityto sparks.

[1> Potassium perchlorate 69.2 [2> Potassium chlorate 75 Sulfur 15.4 Charcoal 12.5 Charcoal 15.4 Sulfur 12.5

[3> Potassium nitrate 70.4 [4> Potassium nitrate 79 Sulfur 19.4 Sulfur 3 Sodium sulfate 10.2 Straw charcoal 18

[5> Potassium nitrate 64 [6> Potassium nitrate 70.6 Sulfur 12 Sulfur 23.5 Lamp black 7 Antimony sulfate 5.9 Sawdust 17

[8> Potassium nitrate 37.5[7> Potassium nitrate 50 Starch 37.5 Ammonium perchlorate 25 Sulfur 18.75 Sulfur 12.5 Antimony powder 6.25 Charcoal 12.5

[10> Guanidine nitrate 49[9> Barium nitrate 75 Potassium nitrate 40 Sulfur 12.5 Charcoal 11 Charcoal 12.5

[11> Sodium peroxide 67 Sodium thiosulphate 33

When preparing black powder for use in firearms, it is important tokeep in mind that these formulas are more powderful than ordinary potassiumnitrate gunpowder, and for that reason smaller quantities should be used. Thecorrect amount can only be discovered by trial-and-error experimentation, but

caution must be taken to prevent overloading. Although black powder is one of the safest explosives, it has adisadvantage: It is extremely sensitive to sparks; and it leaves a messyresidue in gun barrels, which necessitates frequent cleaning. The advantage ofsmokeless powder is the low-explosive class, which gives off only gaseuousproducts upon explosion. The first type of smokeless powder used by the armywas basically nitrocellulose with a small amount of diphenylamine, forstablizer. Smokeless powder is perhaps the safest of any explosive compound,and for that reason is extremely popular today.

[ ] * Napalm *1. Fill the bottom container of a houshold double boiler with nothing2. Fill the top container with gasoline

3. Using gentle electric heat, bring the gasoline to a boil4. Slowly pour in powdered form soap flakes5. Stir the mixture as you pour in the soap flakes6. Continue until saturation7. Allow the mixture to simmer, and set for a day or soEveryone knows that Napalm is a substance that will stick to practicallyanything and whn ignited will burn for a extremely long time.

[*Napalm #2*]



Napalm is in itself a very simple substance...it can be used for manythings...(i.e. getting back at your neighor!!)

Materials:Gasoline Joy or Palmolive(I prefer Joy)A Coke can with a sawed off top Ammonia PelletsA Drill Some bendable wireA Nail

First,make a mixture of 1/2 Joy(my favorite),and 1/2 Gasoline.HTake the coke can, and fill it half full with this wonderful mixture...it should look like this:

-^-^-^-^-^-^-^- ! ! ! ! <-Coke Can ! ! !=============! !=============! !=============! <-Mixture !=============! ---------------

Now,take the drill(or some sharp object)and put a hole through the amm-

onia pellet big enough for the nail.. Put the nail through the pellet(whichI might add can be picked up at any farm supply store)and wire that to thetop of the can so the nail can be slipped out easily,allowing the pellet todrop...WARNING: DO NOT LET THAT PELLET FALL INTO THE MIXTURE,AS YOURWIFE WILL SOON BECOME A WIDOW!! Wait until you are ready to set it off tolet it drop...It should look like this:

(========<+>=========) ! ^^Nail ^^Pellet ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !====================!

' !====================! <-Mixture !====================! !====================! ----------------------

And there is your Napalm grenade...

[ ] * Gun Cotton *Commonly known as smokeless powder, Nitrocellulose is exactly that, it does

not give off smoke when it burns. Guncotton is usually called "gunpowder" or "Nitrocellulose". It is morestable than black powder, and it produces a much greater volume of hot gas. Italso burns much faster than black powder when it is in a confined space.

Finally, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as outlined by the followingprocedure:

1. In a large beaker mix 2 parts by volume Nirtic Acid with one part Sulphuric Acid2. To this mixture add sterilized cotton3. Pour in a small quanity of acetone (Finger Nail Polish Remover) until the cotton dissolves and white crystals are formed, these crystals are gun cotton.4. This material must be confined to acheive detonation



-1 Pieve of Aluminum Foil -1 Length FuseFill the bottle 3/4 full with liquid plumer and add a little piece of aluminum foil to it.Keep the balloon over the neck of the bottle until theballon is full of the resulting gas. This is highly flammable Hydrogen.Now tie the balloon with fusing inserted. Now light the fuse, and let itrise. When the fuse contacts the balloon, Kaboom!!

[ ] * Soft Drink Can Bomb *

This is an anti-personnel bomb meant for milling crowds. The bottom of asoft drink can is half cut out and bent back. A giant firecracker or otherexplosive is put in and surrounded with nuts and bolts or rocks. The fuse isthen armed with a chemical delay in a plastic drinking straw.

After first making sure there are no children nearby, the acid orglycerine is put into the straw and the can is set down by a tree orwall where it will not be knocked over. The delay should give you threeto five minutes. It will then have a shattering effect on passersby.

It is hardly likely that anyone would pick up and drink from someoneelse's soft drink can. But if such a crude person should try to drink fromyour bomb he would break a nasty habit fast

!!

!! !! <-Chemical Ingiter --------- ! !1! ! ! ===== ! !*! !"! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !<- Big firecracker ! ! !%! ! ==== !

! ! ! # ! ! --- ! ! ! ! <- Nuts & Bolts ! / ! ! ! ---------

[ ] *Slow Burning Fuse (2 inches per minute)* Materials: -Yarn or cotton string -Potassium Nitrate -Granulated sugar

1. Wash the cotton string or yarn in hot soapy water, then rinse with fresh water2. Mix the following together in a glass bowl: 1 part Potassium Nitrate, 2 parts granulated sugar, 2 parts hot water3. Soak string in this solution and allow to dry.4. Light it up and check to see how it works.

[ ] *Fast Burning Fuse (40 in. per minute)*



Materials needed: ---> soft cotton string ---> fine black powder ---> shallow dish or pan

Procedure: 1. moisten powder to form a paste 2. twist/braid 3 strands of cotton together 3. rub paste into string and allow to dry 4. check burn rate [ ] *Extraction of Potassium Nitrate from soil*

Potassium nitrate can be extracted from many natural sources and can beused to make nitric acid, black powder, and many pyrotechnics. The yield rangesfrom.1 to 10% by weight, depending on the fertility of the soil.

Materials Source--------- ------Nitrate bearing earth or other Soil contaying decaying animal or vegetablematerial, about 3-1/2 gallons. matter.

Fine wood ashes, 1/2 cup. Totally burned wood products.

5gallonbucket2 pieces of finely woven cloth, each slightly larger than thebottom of the bucket.

Shallow pan or dish at least aslarge as bottom of bucket.

Shallow heat resistant containerceramic or metal.

Water,1-3/4 gallons.

Awl, knife screwdriver or otherhole producing instrument.

Alcohol (ethyl or isopropyl)1 gallon

Heat source, fire, stove.paperTape

Procedure---------1 Punch holes in the bottom of the bucket so that the entire surface is covered

with them.2 Place cloth flat on bottom of bucket.

Spread ashes on cloth. Place second piece of cloth on top of ashes

3 Fill bucket with earth.

4 Place bucket over shallow container. Support bucket with sticks if necessary.



5 Boil water and pour it over earth in bucket a little at atime. Allow water to run through holes in bucket into shallow container. Be surewater runs through all of the earth. Allow liquid to cool and settle for 1 to 2hours.

6 Carefully drain liquid into heat resistant container. Discard sludge atbottom of shallow container.

7 Boil mixture over hot fire for at least 2 hours. Small grains of salt willappear in the solution. Scoop these out as they form and discard.

8 When liquid has boiled down to about half of its original volume, remove fromfire and let sit. After half hour add an equal volume of alcohol.

9 Make an improvised strainer out of paper tape and bucket. Tape paper so thatit covers the top of a clean bucket.

10 Pour mixture through paper strainer. Small white salt crystals will collecton top of it. These are potassium nitrate.

11 To purify the potassium nitrate, re-dissolve the dry crystals in thesmallest amount possible of boiled water (make sure they all dissolve). Remove

any salt crystals that appear (step 7) pour through an improvised filter made of

several pieces of paper and evaporate or gently heat solution to dryness.12 Spread crystals on plat surface and allow to dry. The potassium nitratecrystals are now ready to use.

This method was tested, it is effective. Large quantities (1 to 2 pounds) ofpotassium nitrate can be obtained this way! But be careful, and use common sense

[ ] *Bar Rockets* Materials: 1-empty unrinced glass bottle of 80 or so proof alchoholic beverage 1-toothpick

1-of those thin red bar straws 1-lighter or match hot water

1. Take the bar straw vertically and stick the toothpick through it horizontally2. Cap up the bottle with your thumb and run it under hot water for about a minute.3. Remove your thumb and put the straw into the bottle with the toothpick sitting on the lip of the bottle <see diagram>4. Stand back and put lighter or match over top of bottle.

Diagram:

!! !! ---------------- /!\ [][][][] Toothpick__/ ! !! ! / !! \----Bottle / !! \ / !! \ ! !



!------------! ! ! ! ! ! ! !------------! ! ! !------------!

When you run the hot water over the bottle the little bit of alchohol stillin thebottle turns into a semi-flammable gas. Then when you hold aflame over the bottle it make a small explosion, the force blasts up thestraw and shoots it up. Its not that big but a cool trick.

[ ] * How To Make Blasting Gelatin *

One of the nearly perfect explosive compounds, in the sense ofchemical combustion rather than stability, is blasting gelatin. This wasdiscovered by Nobel, and is a very primitive form of plastique, as we knowit today. It is made by mixing a small amount of nitrocellulose (nitratedsawdust) with a larger amount of nitroglycerin. This creates a stiff, plasticsubstance which has power as an explosive greater than either of itsingredients. A person attempting to make this should use 92% nitroglycerinand 8% nitrocellulose, and pray. If you don't want to mess with making

nitrocellulose and have access to guncotton, it can be substituted.[ ] * Formulas For Gelatin Dynamites *

NG = Nitroglycerin

[1> NG 12 [2> NG 88 Guncotton 0.5 Potassium nitrate 5 Ammonium nitrate 87.5 Tetryl 7

[3> NG 9.5 [4> NG 9.5 Guncotton 0.5 Guncotton 0.5 Ammonium nitrate 59 Ammonium nitrate 59.5

Woodmeal 6 Woodmeal 6 Ammonium oxalate 10 Ammonium oxalate 5 Sodium chloride 15 Sodium chloride 19.5

[5> NG 24 [6> NG 12 Guncotton 1 Ammonium nitrate 87.5 Ammonium nitrate 75 Collodion cotton 0.5

[7> NG 71 [8> NG 75 Ammonium nitrate 23 Guncotton 5 Collodion cotton 4 Potassium nitrate 15 Charcoal powder 2 Woodmeal 5

[9> NG 12 [10> NG 30 Guncotton 0.5 Guncotton 1 Ammonium nitrate 82.5 Ammonium nitrate 68 Potassium nitrate 5 Sodium chloride 1

[11> NG 9.5 [12> NG 25 Ammonium nitrate 67.5 Ammonium nitrate 62 Woodmeal 8 Tetryl 1 Sodium chloride 15 Charcoal powder 12



[13> NG 80 [14> NG 60 Ethylene glycol dinitrate 20 Dinitrotoluene 40

[15> NG 60 [16> NG 29 Guncotton 4 Guncotton 1 Potassium nitrate 28 Ammonium nitrate 65 Woodmeal 8 Potassium nitrate 5

[17> NG 55 [18> NG 27 Guncotton 3 Guncotton 0.7 Potassium nitrate 18 Ammonium nitrate 30 Woodmeal 7 Sodium nitrate 30 Anhydrous magneium sulfate 17 Charcoal powder 11 Barium sulfate 1.3[19> NG 29 Guncotton 1 Ammonium nitrate 70

[ ] * Tamping *

Tamping is nothing more than an operation performed before theexplosion, to regulate and direct the destructive power of the explosion. Inother words, if a pound of black powder is ignited with a match, the explosion

will occur but most of the destructive force will take the path of the leastresistance - into the atmosphere. Now, if the same pound of black powder wasplaced within a steel pipe, and sealed at both ends, except for a tiny holefor the fuse, the explosion could be regulated with ease. This tampingoperation is necessary for any forms of demolitions in order that theoperation be successful. A stick of dynamite placed on a concrete roadwayuntamped, when exploded will create a very small crater, perhaps a few inches.If this same stick of dynamite were tamped, by placing several sandbags ontop of if and around it, the explosion would create a much greater crater.This tamping operation is absolutely necessary for the demolition of a largestructure or building.[1> When attempting to sever a steel rod or pole, through the use ofexplosives, place a charge on each side, leaving a small gap between the butts

of the explosives.[2> When cutting a chain, place the explosive charge on one side and tape itsecurely into place.[3> When cutting any odd-shaped object, the best explosive to use is plastiquebecause of its flexibility. It is especially usefull and effective whencutting heavy metal cables. The compound should be placed around the side ofthe cable that is to be cut, about a half-inch thick. When sabotaging railroad tracks with explosive, use plastique ifavailable, since this is the easiest substance to use when trying to severobjects or irregular shapes. The most common way of cutting train tracks is byplacing a charge of high explosives on either side of the "I" beam track, soas to have the forces of the two explosions act upon each other, thus causingthe middle object maximum destruction.

Another method which has proven equally effective is placing a chargebetween the rail and the switch. The switch is one of the weakest points alongthe line, and a relatively small charge will not only sever the switch andrail, but will also rip up the ties and the railroad bed. Tamping withsandbags can and should be used if at all possible, since the extent of thedamage is multiplied several times by the addition of the sandbags. Tampingcan be useless if you are on a silent lightning-fast mission. In this case,a two-pound charge of TNT carefully placed between the switch and rail willalmost certainly do the trick without tamping. The best procedure whenengaged in this type of sabotage is to repeat the acts every three-quarters



of a mile or so, so as to delay the repairmen and create confusion.

[ ] *Placement Of Charges*

In demolition work, the greatest problem is the actual placement ofthe charges. When an individual is working on a large structure such as abuilding or a bridge, it is imperative that he have an understanding of thedirectional force of explosives, and the structure's weaknesses. Theselarge-type structures are built to bear up under abnormal stress, so thechances are good, unless the charges are placed correctly, that the sabotagewill have little or no effect. When attempting the demolition of a building, the first thing to do isto determine the weakest point in the structure. This is the point where acharge can be placed and well-tamped, and will result in maximum destruction.A large building will usually take more than just one charge. The best bet isto place large explosive charges on either side of a weak point in thefoundations. These charges should be tamped from the outside, so as to drivethe force inward. There are several basic methods of planting explosives. The advantageto most of the ones listed below is that they have a natural tamping factor,built-in.

[1> Bury the explosive beneath the object of destruction.[2> Drill a bore hole into the object and fill with explosives.

[3> Form a brace to hold the explosives tight against the object ofdestruction. A good brace can be made from wood placed on a diagnol, with oneend jammed into the ground.[4> Place a charge out in the open, with the tamping material surrounding it,and directing its force.

[ ] * Basic Formulas For Demolitions Use and Lacing *

[1> Computation for minimum safety distance. For charges less then 27 pounds, the minimum safety distance is 900feet. Over 27 pounds, the minimum safety distance can be figured by usingthe following formula: ____________________________ 300 x 3/ Pounds of explosive (T.N.T.)

(Read: 300 times the cubic root of pounds of explosive)[2> Steel cutting When cutting, with explosives, part of a steel structure, determinethe area in square inches of the member to be cut. This area is then labeled"A" and can use the following formula: P = 3/8 A P = The number of pounds of T.N.T. necessary. (Read: P equals 3 eighths times A)

[3> Steel cutting When a steel member is not part of a greater structure, a differentformula is used. This is based on the diameter of the individual member.

2 P=D (Read: P equals D squared) P = The amount of T.N.T. required, and D is the diameter of the piece of steel.

[4> Train rails To cut rails that weigh less then 80 pounds, use one-half pound ofexplosives. To cut rails that weigh over 80 pounds, use a full pound ofexplosives.



[5> Timber cutting When the charge is to be external and untamped, the formula is asfollows: 3 P = C --- 30 (Read: P equals C cubed divided by 30) P = The pounds of explosives required, and C equals the circumference of the tree in feet (this formula is given for plastique). When figuring an internal tamped charge, the formula is: 2 P = D --- 250 (Read: P equals D squared divided by 250) P = The pounds of explosives, and D equals the diameter of the tree in inches.

[Some Important Principles] A basic rule to follow in all calculations having to do with explosivecompounds is to round off the amount to the next highest unit package. Attimes you may use a little more than necessary, but you will be assured ofsuccess. Another rule when calculating charges is to add one-third moreexplosives if you do not intend to tamp. If a formula is given for plastique(composition 4), as was done for both timber-cutting formulas, you are able tocompute poundage in TNT by adding one-third to the weight of the plastique.

When using the principle of cratering to destroy a paved surface withexplosives, use several charges rather than just one. The use of a bore holeis especially effective here. It is pointless to attempt cratering a roadwaywithout tamping, since most of the destructive force of your charge will gostraight up in the air. Bombs and booby traps incorporate more than just technical knowledge,they are based on human nature. To create an effective booby trap, one musthave a primitive insight into his enemy's actions, thoughts, and methods.Before I get into the nitty-gritty of constructing booby traps, bombs, landmines, grenades, etc., it is important explain the basic working principlesand mechanisms behind these devices. In the acquisition of equipment I would recommend purchasing orstealing, rather than making your own. Manufactured equipment is much safer to

work with, and usually more effective. Once you have your explosive compounds,you will need a way to set it off, or detonate it. With all high explosives,you will need a detonator or blasting cap, unless you decide to lace the fuseinto the explosive, although this is not recommended. A blasting cap is a low-explosive compound that is connected to a high explosive, for the purpose ofdetonating it. There are two types of blasting caps - electric andnonelectric. To use a nonelectrical blasting cap, one gently pushes the fuse intothe hollow end, until it is fully in. He then crimps the hollow metal endaround the fuse, and puts it into the high explosive. When the fuse burns downit ignites the flash charge. That in turn explodes the priming charge, whichdetonates the base charge, and finally creates enough heat to set off thehigh-explosive charge. The fuse is ordinary safety fuse or detonating cord.

When the fuse is put into the blasting cap, it is necessary to sealit. This act of sealing is called crimping. When involved with this sort ofthing, one must use the standard safety precautions set down in theprevious section. Crimpers look like a pair of pliers, and their function isvery similar, although pliers cannot be used for crimping. With the crimper inyour right hand and the blasting cap in your left, slowly squeeze the hollowend of the blasting cap until it is firmly against the fuse. Use care so thatyou do not squeeze the charge within the cap, as this may detonate it. Whereas nonelectrical blasting caps are functional and have proventhat they can be relied on, electrical blasting caps offer a much greater



variety of uses. The basic principle of the electrical blasting caps is thatan electrical charge moves through an insulated wire until it reaches a smallsection of that same wire which is not insulated and which is surrounded bya primary flash charge. The heat from the electrical charge will explode theflash charge, which in turn will set off a series of minor explosions,finishing up with the high explosive. Both types of blasting caps should be placed within the high explosiveitself. This is easy when working with plastique or a pliable surface.Manufactured TNT has a small hole designed at the top for just this reason,but in dynamite one has to make his own hole. This hole should be made with awooden or nonsparking metal object. The ends of the crimpers are ideal. Thehole can be made in one of two ways: the first is bored carefully and gentlystraight down from the top of the stick, to exactly the length of the capitself; the second type of hole is made from the side in a downward diagnoldirection. Both of these methods have proven effective. Another method priming dynamite, which is not as reliable as eithernonelectrical or electrical blasting caps, is called "lacing". The principlebehind most detonating devices is simply to create a temperature which is hotenough to ignite the high explosive. This increase in temperature can beaccomplished with a relatively good degree of success by weaving the fusethroughout the high explosive so that, as the fuse burns down, the heatcreated from the burning process it captures and held within the highexplosive until the detonation temperature is reached. There are different methods of lacing, depending on what type of high

explosive you happen to working with. For dynamite, the most common and mostfunctional method is to literally sew the detonation cord into the stick.This preparation entails the individual's making several holes directlythrough the dynamite itself. This hole-making should be performed just asthe planting of the blasting cap was handled. The holes must be dug gentlyand slowly with a nonmetallic instrument. "Lacing" should be done only whenthere is no alternative, and blasting caps are not available. When using TNT, you can lace it by wrapping the detonating cordaround the body of the explosive at least five or six times, and then tyingit off with a clove hitch. This will result in a great amount of heat beingtransferred into the TNT from the fuse, and its detonation. Plastique can also be ignited in this fashion, by employing a heavy-duty detonation cord, and tying a double knot in one of its ends. This large

knot is then buried deep in the center of the composition. It must be at leastone inch from any side.

[ ] * How to Hotwire a Car *

The easiest way is to just get under the dashboard and start crossing wires.Of course this could short out the entire electrical system so there is abetter way.

When you get in the car, look under the dash. If it's enclosed then don'tbother. Most new cars are like this unfortunately. However you could cutthrough the dash. If you do cut just do it near the ignition.

Once you get behind or near the ignition, look for two red wires. In oldercars this was the standard color code. If they aren't there you'll just haveto try whatever else you can find.

Pull out the two wires and cross them. The car should start.

[ ] * Fax Machine Fun *

In the late 80's we have seen a massive explosion in the popularity offax machines. Everyone has one. They are cheap, easy to use, and very useful.



Up until now, however, they have been almost exclusivly in the province of thebuisness world. Just for those of you who have been in comas for the last fewyears, I'll explain fax machines to you. Fax machines are combination scanners/modems/printers. You can transmitthe contents of a piece of paper to another fax over the phone lines. Usually,your fax also prints the number you called from on the first sheet of thetransmittal. It is easy to see why buisnesses like these. No longer contentwith Federal Express, now letters can go cross country in minutes. Faxes haveabout 200-250 dpi resolution, and print out on rolls of thermal paper. For someodd reason, most of them are 4800 baud.

"So what" you ask? Most people don't seem to realize the potentialavailable here. When I worked at The FHLB, we used to get faxes all the time,with requests for checks. Occaisionaly, we also got short notes from the idiotsat the other banks. This is what gave me the idea for what I call, for lack of a better term, FaxPiracy. Fax Piracy is the ultimate prank call. Let me give you an example. There was this Library I hated, and, like everyone else, they have a fax.So what me and a few of my freinds did was send them requests, "from" anotherLibrary for books. I found out later, from a kid who worked there that theywasted about $50, sending them all the books. Not much, but if you know howcheap librarians are, you can imagine the shit fits they had.

Next, we send them a "Mobius Fax" we got some sheets of blackconstruction paper, taped about 10 of them together, and started feeding themthrough the fax. Once the start of the long sheet we had created came through,we taped it to the end. This went on continuosly for about 15 minutes until their(very expensive) thermal paper ran out. Since we had sent them nothing butblack paper, it completely covered and ruined all of their paper. This used uptheir 3month paper allocation at once, and they had to borrow from petty cashto buy more. Finally we sent them a little note, telling them what idiots they were, andsigning it "the fax pirates"

HOW TO DO IT-

First, and this is VERY IMPORTANT- Always remember to REPROGRAM the faxso it displays someone elses name and number. If you forget to do this, itslike sending a letter bomb with a return adress. Second, decide what to send. This is entirely up to you (duh) , anddepends on whether you want to annoy them, or really destroy them.* Wierdrequests from other companies you hate, long rambling stories, or strange art isalways good. Be a little creative Third, send it. (wow, some people need to be told everything, don't they)What? You don't know their fax #? Its not in information? Its not in thephone book? Well, keep reading!

HOW TO GET FAX PHONE NUMBERS- This is just way easier than it should be. Call and ask. I'm serious,we've done this probably over 30 times, and NO ONE HAS EVER QUESTIONED OURREQUEST! I'll give you a sample of a call that actually happened. (this isverbatum)(we taped it)

IBM LADY Hello, IBM, may I help you?

ME Hi, this is Biff Fulgate from over here at Linear Data Systems



Can I get your fax number, those boys in research need to send something over and they lost the number again.

IBM LADY Please hold on a moment

ME Sure thing. Hah, those cooks over in research would probably lose their heads if they wern't screwed on.

IBM LADY Haha. Now is that the Tower 700 number?

ME Um...let me check here... Yeah, that's it. (Tower 700? what?)

IBM LADY Ok, hold on

(Long wait during which I get slightly nervous)

IBM LADY Ok That number is 313-xxx-xxxx

ME Thanks, Bye

Also, most ads have fax numbers. Don't fuck with little companiesthough.

A) they don't need it, B) they are probably more suspicious, C) it hurts themmorethan it would hurt a big company. be a caring capitolist.

If you need any suggestions as to who's number to get try the following-newspapers, radios stations, big companies, libraries, city & state governments,the right to life movement, etc.

HINTS-

Act like you know whats going on at all times. Be polite, and a little bit familiar

Make sure you have a plausable reason for getting the number Don't laugh Let the person who sounds most 'adult-like' make the call Make sure you have a plausable name

Remember, the larger the company, the less the people know and care about otherparts of the company, so the greater chance you have of not getting hassled.ALSO! Don't forget to change the "number" you are calling from.

If you want to send a Mobius Fax, usually Faxes have paper feed trays (we didn'tknow that when we did it)

ALSO- NEVER, EVER, DO THIS TO AT&T!

HOW TO GET A FAX TO USE-

Well, if you don't have one, try mommy's or daddy's office. Most Campusoffices have faxes you can pretend that you are supposed to be using (tell themtheLibrary sent you). Many print-shops (like Kinko's) have fax machines that youcan use for a nominal fee. And, just like terminals in the early 80's, mostfax machines are just sitting out in offices, if you dress nicely, and look likeyou know what you're doing, no one is going to ask questions.



*-- for really good info on how to really fuck up a company with mail, or faxes,I reccomend Keith Wade's POISON PEN LETTERS & YOUR REVENGE IS IN THE MAILbothavailable from the Loompanics Book Catalog (see my file on that for the adress)

[*Smoke Bombs*]

One type of pyrotechnic device that might be employed by a terrorist inmany way would be a smoke bomb. Such a device could conceal the getaway route,or cause a diversion, or simply provide cover. Such a device, were it toproduce enough smoke that smelled bad enough, could force the evacuation of abuilding, for example. Smoke bombs are not difficult to make. Although themilitary smoke bombs employ powdered white phosphorus or titanium compounds,such materials are usually unavailable to even the most well-equipped terrorist.Instead, he/she would have to make the smoke bomb for themselves.

Most homemade smoke bombs usually employ some type of base powder, suchas black powder or pyrodex, to support combustion. The base material will burnwell, and provide heat to cause the other materials in the device to burn, butnot completely or cleanly. Table sugar, mixed with sulfur and a base material,produces large amounts of smoke. Sawdust, especially if it has a small amountof oil in it, and a base powder works well also. Other excellent smokeingredients are small pieces of rubber, finely ground plastics, and many

chemical mixtures. The material in road flares can be mixed with sugar andsulfur and a base powder produces much smoke. Most of the fuel-oxodizermixtures, if the ratio is not correct, produce much smoke when added to a basepowder. The list of possibilities goes on and on. The trick to a successfulsmoke bomb also lies in the container used. A plastic cylinder works well, andcontributes to the smoke produced. The hole in the smoke bomb where the fuseenters must be large enough to allow the material to burn without causing anexplosion. This is another plus for plastic containers, since they will meltand burn when the smoke material ignites, producing an opening large enough toprevent an explosion.

1) Mix 3 parts Sugar : 6 Parts Epson salt 2) put in a tin can, and onto a low flame (like a lighter)

3) let gel harden 4) put match in as a fuse. 5) light and run like hell cause 4 pounds will fill a city block...

The following reaction should produce a fair amount of smoke. Since this reaction is not all that dangerous you can use larger amounts if necessary for larger amounts of smoke.

6G Zinc powder 1G Sulfur powder

Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back. A lot of smoke should be created

Simple smoke and stink bomb- You can purchase Sulphur at a drugstore underthe name FloWers of Sulphur. Now when Sulphur burns it will give off a verystrong odor and plenty of smoke. Now all you need is a fuse from a firecracker,a tin can, and the Sulphur. Fill the can with Sulphur(pack very lightly), PutAluninum foil over the top of the can, poke a small hole into the foil, insertthe wick, and light it and get out of the room if you value your lungs. You canfind many uses for this( or atleast i hope so.



yellow sodium salts gold sparklers (sodium nitrate)

_____________________________________________________________________________ __

blue powdered copper blue sparklers, old pennies

_____________________________________________________________________________ __

white powdered magnesium firestarters, or aluminum aluminum foil

_____________________________________________________________________________ __

purple potassium permanganate purple fountains, treating sewage

[ ] *How To Make Smokeless Powder*

[1> Boil cotton for 30 minutes, in a 2% solution of sodium hydroxide.[2> Wash the cotton in hot water and allow it to dry.[3> Mix slowly and carefully at 25 degrees Centigrade, 250 cc. of concentrated sulfuric acid, 150 cc. of concentrated nitric acid, and 20 cc. of water. They must be kept at 25 degrees C.[4> Next place the dried cotton in the acid solution, and stir well with either a glass or porcelain rod (do not use metal). This should be

done for 35 minutes.[5> After nitration, the acids are washed away, and the cotton is washed in boiling water five times, each time for 25 minutes. The cotton is given several tests with litmus paper. If the litmus test proves that there is still some acid present, a 2% solution of sodium

bicarbonate should neutralize whatever is left. This is important,since any remaining acid acts as an impurity to make the explosive

more unstable.

[ ] *SMOKE BOMBS*

(1) MATERIALS

[1] 6 Table Spoons of Potassium Nitrate [2] 5 Table Spoons of Sugar [3] Something to melt them together [4] Something to pore the stuff into [5] Magnesium strips or ribbon

(2) THE MIXTURE

[1] Measure 6 parts Potassium Nitrate and 5 parts Sugar and put them in the can that you are going to heat them in and blend them together.

[2] Put the can over the stove and heat the mixture together (make sure that you dont ignite the stuff in the can- to prevent this form happening make

sure you stur and have it under a low flame [3] When you notice that the two solids have become a liquid then take the can off of the stove and pour the stuff into the thing you want it in and imbed the magnesium into the stuff to use as an igniter.

[4] one pound of this stuff will engolph a hole chicago block as long as there is no wind

[ ] *Time Delay Devices*



! D ! ! Y ! P ! N ! I ==> ! A ! P ! M ! E ! I ! ! T ! ! E ! ! ! +-+---+-+ C ! ! A ==> ! ! P ! ! ! ! ! ! +-------+

Vial of Sulfuric Acid:

+---+ A ! ! I ==> ! ! R ! ! !%%%!

SULFURIC !%%%! ==> !%%%! ACID !%%%! !%%%! !%_%! STOPPER ==> !/ \! +---+

Place the vial upside down in the top of the bomb as shown.

Incendiary Time Bomb

This next one is an incendiary time bomb. This is verysimiliar to the Nipple Time Bomb, in that it relies on the samechemical action, but without the dynamite. The procedure is verysimple. A cardboard box or iron tube is filled with a mixture ofthree-quarters potassium chlorate and one-quarter sugar, and thensealed. At one end a hole is made. Into that hole is placed aninverted vial of sulfuric acid, with a paper or cork stopper, itwill come into contact with the potassium chlorate-sugar mixture.This will result in a very hot, powerful fire.

Illustration:

% = Vial of Sulfuric Mixture as in the

above bomb$ = Cork or Paper Stopper# = Mixture of Potassium Cholrate and Sugar

+---+ +---+ ! !%! ! ! !%! ! ! !%! ! ! !%! !



! !$! ! ! +-+ ! !#########! !#########! !#########! !#########! !#########! !#########! +---------+

Magnifying-Glass Bomb

The Magnigying-Glass Bomb is effective, but it has manydisadvantages. The procedure is very simple. Take a tin can andfill three-quarters of it with highly coompressed gunpowder. Nowattach to the top of the can a small magnifying glass, so thatthe sun's light, when magnifyed through the glass, will cause theheat necessary to detonate the charge. This works very well, aslong as it doesn't rain.

Illustration:

Magnifying Glass ! +-----+ +------! !------+ ! +-----+ ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%! !%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%! !%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%! !%%%%%GUNPOWDER%%%%%!

!%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%! !%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%! !%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%! +-------------------+

Alarm-Clock Time Bomb

The alarm-clock detonation method is the most accurate device,in that a person can the the exact time he wishes the bomb toexplode. It is connected in the same fashion as the othereletrical-circuit booby traps. Wires are connected to the hammerof the bell and to the bell itself, via the blasting cap, to a

dry cell. The clock should be set to go off before the boobytrap is built. When the alarm goes off, the hammer and bellconnect completing the electrical circuit and detonating theexplosive.

Illustration:

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% % +---++---+ % DYNAMITE % % ! +!!+ ! %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%



% ! !DC! ! % DYNAMITE % % ! !re! ! %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% % ! !yl! ! % DYNAMITE % % ! ! l! ! %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% % ! +--+ +-- Blasting Cap % %%!%%%%%%%%!%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% % ! ! % DYNAMITE % % +-+----+-+ %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% % !oooo! % DYNAMITE % % !oooo! %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% % !oooo! % DYNAMITE % % +----+ %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% % Clock % DYNAMITE % %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

[ ] *Supermarket Fun*

As some of you might have already guessed, this file will tell you all abouthow to have loads of fun in any supermarket or grocery store. There are manydifferent things to do in a supermarket that will provide entertainment aswell as pissing off people in general. First, though, you should get somefriends to increase the entertainment value of the whole excursi- on, as wellas to provide even more destruction.

I've found that you can get away with a lot of things (playing chasethroughout the aisles, playing soccer or football with various perishables,etc.) and no one will say anything. If anyone does say anything, do thekindly anarchist thing and tell them to fuck off.

Ok. One very fun thing to do is fuck with the shopping carts themselves. Youcan fill up many carts and then strew them all around the store, for example.I'm sure that almost every employee just loves to spend their time ridding thestore of the bogus carts you created. Or maybe you would rather gather ten orso carts and then make barriers in aisles when no one is looking. Wouldn'tyou like to hear "Um...Frank..someone seems to have made a collection of cartsin aisle four, so could you clean it up please, thank you..." announced overthe loudspeaker system of your nearest Giant or Safeway? Or you can have your

very own shopping cart drag races in the frozen food section. Perhaps you'reone of the more destructive types. If you are, then "bumper carts" is justfor you. Just smash the carts into one another and relive those magicchildhood moments at the carnival. One VERY funny stunt that produces greatresults is fucking with other people's carts. Just go around throwing thingsinto carts when the owner is not looking. "Wait a minute..where the hell didthis damn watermellon come from?! I hate watermellons." Doing that cangreatly confuse a person, so go ahead, make someone think they're goin' crazy!Another fun thing to do at a grocery store is, of course, playing with thefood. See how many times you and a friend can throw toilet paper over aisleeight without hitting anyone. You can always go for 'distance' by throwingfruits or vegetables over as many aisles as possible. Or perhaps you wouldrather test your bowling skills. Just stack up anything handy (paper towles,

cans, plastic soda bottles, etc.) and roll any sphere like object at it(melons, or perhaps a can of Kool Aid?) You could always play a quick game ofbasketball. Just set up an empty cart and find something that bounces ordoesn't), then go for those three point shots. In fact, almost every majorsport (except water pollo, but that's not a major sport, now is it?) can beplayed with ease at your closest supermakert or grocery store.

Pissing off the employees is also entertaining. I'm sure you can think ofmany ways to do this, but try the following. Trying to buy alcohol if you'reunder age (insist that you aren't!), shouting obscenities, eating 'bulk' food



right out of the container, dropping (accidently of course!) a few glassbottles, going down to where the employees eat and just sit at the table, andalso try to buy nine packs of gum in the '8 items or less' lane. You couldalso try loitering, just sit at the magazine rack and catch up on yourreading. Another fun thing to do is to keep bugging an employee hard at work.I'm sure an employee would appreciate it if you dragged him from his task justso you could buy one red hot from the bulk food section.

Yet another entertaining thing to do is cause the store to lose customers.The easiest way to do this is to just buy something so you and a friend canget in line. Then look at what the person ahead of you is getting and tellyour friend that "whatever the next person has" was laced with poison orsomething to that effect.

Oh, here's yet another entertaining thing to do. Go outside the store andlook for carts that are full and just sitting there with no on by them (theowner has gone to get his/her car). When you have found such a cart, take somebags or better yet, take the whole cart. Now you have a weeks worth of freegroceries. So get some friends together and have a party (what else wouldyou do with six bags of food?) If the owner suddenly appears while you are"buying" your groceries, just push the cart as hard as you can at him/her andtake off. If you are lucky enough two find two of these carts, then you canhave some real fun. Just start taking things out of one cart and chuck it inthe other, better yet, just exchange bags! Then sit back and watch the

confussion. Although the people probably won't notice the difference untilthey get home and unpack. Don't you wish you could see their reaction?! Oh,you could also just take someones cart and move it down a bit...that way youcould see their reaction and that would of course increase your enjoyment.

A vast amount of fun can be had in the frozen food section. Just take somefrozen products or ice cream and put them in one of those desrted isles sothey can thaw out. After that, cruise over to where ever the food coloring iskept and snag some. Then go back to frozen foods and find some nice icecream. Now just open up ice cream containers and put about thirty drops ofred (or whatever color) food coloring in 'em. Wouldn't YOU be surprised ifyou opened up a half gallon of vanilla ice cream at home and found red swirlsand patches in it??

Do you want to get people in trouble? Then you can have lots of fun screwingwith the prices of things. You can take some steaks and throw 'em into the"reduced food section". Most people are stupid and would jump at the chanceto get a turkey for a few bucks. Or, you could just take a large marker intothe store with you and write "5 cents" on everything you see. Write it ondonut boxes, cereal boxes, soda bottles, or anything you see.

My last topic is everyone's favorite, taking what is not rightfully yours(shoplifting, dumbass) It's surprisingly simple to lift things from grocerystores. I'm not going to give you a shoplifting tutorial here though, if youneed to read a phile to learn how to lift, you're an idiot. Also, you can eatthings right in the store if you want. Just take your snack to a deserted

aisle and then satisfy your stomach. Of course, the only thing you couldsteal from Giant is food (or those cheap plastic toys often found in grocerystores, but why would you want those?), and since a box of cereal is a bit toobvious under one's shirt, I suggest candy. But go ahead and take what youwant...

Well, I was wrong, I have one more thing I want to tell you about (gee I'mtricky...) Ok, have you ever seen those swinging double-doors in the backnear the meat?? These doors can lead you to loads of fun. Back there theystore all their excess until they have room for it. So you can go back there



and fuck around like crazy (if anyone asks you what the hell you're doing backthere, just say you're going to the bathroom, the bathrooms are ALWAYS backthere somewhere), doing whatever the hell you want. Try rearranging anythingyou may find back there. Go ahead, screw up their inventory!

[ ] The Mammoth Fire Pillar

The concept behind this one is simple. In fifth grade we had a littleproject where we filled a can with flour and put a small candle in itand blew the flour with one those curve straw type things. How it worksis the flour is all blown into the air around the candle and the little"bits" are caught on fire and light more and more until you get a columnon fire. The concept here is the same only on a much larger scale.

What you need:- A big can, like something your mom might buy a year's supply of peas in

or something. Around 1 gallon or above if possible (be sure this is NOT

plastic!- Some type of candle. I like to use a bunch of those magic relight

candles tied together so that if it goes out it'll start back up.- A bag of flour- Some plastic tubing about 1/4 inch and 2-3 feet long. You may want to

get a few elbow joints(E) for this, but at least one is needed.

This is the basic configuration-

| || || I || I |

--------------------------\ I | <-BIG CAN------------------------\ | I |

| | | I || I ||:::::::::::::I:::::::::::::|

FLOUR -> |:::::::::::::I:::::::::::::|

|:::::::::::::I:::::::::::::|+---------------------------+/^\

|THE CANDLE

Now all you have to do is light the candle and blow on the tubing VERYhard. What you might want to do is get a big baloon to use, or what Idid is I took an old bike and took the valve off of the tire and hookedit to the end. Now I use either a foot pump, which can get tiring sinceyou have to go very fast, or I acquire some of those CO2 cartriges usedto inflate tires like when you're on a big biking trip. I also recommendthat you get tubing that will not melt in the fire, you might even want

to try some type of metal, although for me some good hard plastic works.[ ] LEAD AZIDE

Lead Azide is a material that is often used as a booster charge forother explosive, but it does well enough on its own as a fairly sensitiveexplosive. It does not detonate too easily by percussion or impact, but itis easily detonated by heat from an igniter wire, or a blasting cap. It issimple to produce, assuming that the necessary chemicals can be procured.



By dissolving sodium azide and lead acetate in water in separatebeakers, the two materials are put into an aqueous state. Mix the two beakerstogether, and apply a gentle heat. Add an excess of the lead acetatesolution, until no reaction occurs, and the precipitate on the bottom of thebeaker stops forming. Filter off the solution, and wash the precipitate inhot water. The precipitate is lead azide, and it must be stored wet for safety.If lead acetate cannot be found, simply acquire acetic acid, and put leadmetal in it. Black powder bullets work well for this purpose.

[ ] * THERMIT *

This stuff can burn *anything*. [except Tungsten].. It's great for burningopen a a pay phone

Thermit is a fuel-oxodizer mixture that is used to generate tremendousamounts of heat. It was not presented in section 3.23 because it does not reactnearly as readily. It is a mixture of iron oxide and aluminum, both finelypowdered. When it is ignited, the aluminum burns, and extracts the oxygen fromthe iron oxide. This is really two very exothermic reactions that produce acombined temperature of about 2200 degrees C. This is half the heat produced byan atomic weapon. It is difficult to ignite, however, but when it is ignited,it is one of the most effective firestarters around.

MATERIALS

powdered aluminum (10 g) powdered iron oxide (10 g)

1) There is no special procedure or equipment required to make thermit. Simply mix the two powders together, and try to make the mixture as homogenous as possible. The ratio of iron oxide to aluminum is 50% / 50% by weight, and be made in greater or lesser amounts.

2) Ignition of thermite can be accomplished by adding a small amount of potassium chlorate to the thermit, and pouring a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. This method and others will be discussed later in section 4.33. The other method of igniting thermit is with a magnesium strip. Finally, by using common sparkler-type fireworks placed in the thermit, the mixture

can be ignited.[ ] *How to make Thermite*

1) First you need rust. The best way to make alot of it is....

a) get an electric train transformer b) attach a common nail to the PLUS (+) end of the transformer c) get a glass jar d) fill it with water

e) put salt [regular table salt is fine] into the water f) put the other end (-) into water with the nail [leave the transformer

out, of course] g) turn on the transformer h) let the contraption run overnight i) seperate out all the red shit [that's the rust] with a filter or a spoon. j) let the stuff dry [like on a paper towel] k) that's it! you have rust! 2) Get some aluminum filings from the hardware store [or shave your own from a bar with less that 94% pure aluminum, called duralumin]



3) Now, just mix:

8 grams rust -------------------------- 3 grams aluminum filings 4) That's Thermite!! Now, to ignite it... 5) You now need some Magnesium ribbon. To get it, you can:

a) steal it from the chemistry lab at school b) buy it at the hardware store c) buy it from a chemical supply house. 6) Alright, shove the Magesium ribbon into the Thermite at a fuse. 7) Then light it with a blowtorch. [It won't get hot enough to ignite the Thermite, though] 8) last step: get the hell back. [it can vaporize CARBON STEEL!]

[ ] * Thermite * PART 1: Thermite

Materials needed:Aluminum Powder (no coarser than ground coffee)Iron Oxide Flakes (Iron II Oxide, similar to coarse ground coffee)Jar or can with tight fitting lid.Spoon or cup for measuring

Preparation:1) Ok, put 3 parts by volume of iron oxide to 2 parts by volume of aluminum powder into the jar. Leave at least 1/3 of the jar EMPTY.2) Tighten lid on jar and turn slowly on its side till the 2 powders are

completely mixed.Thats it! You've made thermite! But that was the EASY part... the igniters are alot more complex....

PART 2: Igniters

Materials needed:Finely powdered aluminum (no coarser than cake flour)Finely powdered Sulfur (no coarser than cake flour)Finely powdered Starch (yet again, not coaser than cake flour)WaterCylindrical tube about 6" in length and 3/4" inside diameter (plastic tubing youcan get at any lumberyard is ideal)

3/4" rod (or slightly smaller) rod that fits inside of plasic tube3/8" dowel rodMixing bowlTablespoonTeaspoonStove or hotplateKnifeMeasuring containerGranulated sugar (do NOT use powdered or confectionary sugar)Potassium chlorate or Sodium chlorate (no coarser than granulated sugar)



Plastic SpoonMoisture proof container with tight fitting lidRolling pinFuse or solar igniters (solar igniters are used for ignition of model rocketsand are available at most hobby shops)

Preparation:

1) Place 6 tablespoons of aluminum powder in a mixing bowl then add 15 tablespoons of powdered sulfur.2) Mix two powders together gently with spoon till no unmixed particals of sulfur are visible.3) In a seperate pot add 2 teaspoons of laundry starch to about 6 ounces of water and boil gently for a few minutes. Stir till the starch is dissolved and allow the solution to cool to room temperature.4) When cool, take about half the starch solution and add it to the mixture of aluminum powder and sulfur.5) Mix with a spoon until the whole mass is a smooth, evenly mixed putty-like paste.6) Fill the cylindrical tube with this paste, place one end of the tube on a hard surface and tamp the paste with the 3/8" rod to sqeeze out the air bubbles.7) Push the paste out of the tube with the large rod, which just fits inside the tube, so that it forms a cylinder, then cut the damp cylinder into

1 1/2" lengths using the knife.8) Dry these pieces at 90 degrees F. for at least 24 hours. 9) Form a hole at least 1/2" in diameter approxamately halfway into one end of and igniter pellet.10) Fill hole to roughly 1/2 its depth with sub-igniter mix (We'll be getting to making that in a sec)11) Insert a length of fuse (or solar igniter) into the hole so it makes contact with the sub-igniter mix. Fill the rest of the hole with sub-igniter mix and tamp down to hold fuse (or solar igniter) firmly.12) Tape fuse (or solar igniter) firmly in place to prevent it from working loose and to prevent sub-igniter mix from spilling out of hole.13) Tape 2 or more pellets without holes to the one with the fuse14) Store all the pellets in a dry, closed container till useage.

Sub-igniter mix preparation:

1) Using a clean, dry, plastic spoon, place granulated sugar in the container to one quarter container volume. Wipe spoon with a dry, clean cloth.2) If the potassium chlorate or sodium chlorate is lumpy, remove all lumps by crushing with rolling pin. Using the spoon, add a quantity of chlorate equal to the amount of suagr to the container

WARNING: IF THIS MIXTURE IS CARELESSLY HANDLED WITH EXCESSIVE BUMPINGAND SCRAPING IT COULD IGNITE AND FRY YOUR ASS. MAKE SURE THERE ISN'T ANYADHERING TO THE EDGE OR LIP OF THE CONTAINER BEFORE TIGHTENING THE LID!!!

3) Tighten the lid of the jar, turn jar on its side, and slowly roll till the two powders are completely mixed. The mixture is ready to use and may be stored for months in a tightly sealed container.

Ok, the igniters are done (Whew! Don't worry, its all downhill from here)If you did it right, it should look something like this:

-Cut-away View-

##%%""%%####%%""%%## # = Pellet



##%%""%%## % = Sub-igniter mix##%%""%%## " = Fuse##%%""%%####%%""%%####%%""%%####%%%%%%####%%%%%%####%%%%%%####%%%%%%#####%%%%#######%%######################################################

PART 3: Bomb ConstructionThere's 3 types of basic devices thermite is good for: Metal welding device,

Hole burning device, and Exploding incediary device.

1: Welding deviceMaterials needed:

Cardboard clyinder with metal ends (empty comet detergent box is perfect)

Thermite & Igniters1) Cut cylinder in half2) Arrange thermite and igniters like this:

- Cut away view -

""!######%%""%%#####! ! = Cardboard cylinder!######%%""%%#####! # = Thermite!######%%%%%%#####! % = Igniter cluster!######%%%%%%#####! " = Fuse!######%%%%%%#####! + = Metal end!#################!

!#################!!#################!!#################!+++++++++++++++++++

Place over parts you wish to weld and ignite. Conducted heat and molten slag from the device will cause a weld. This is good for sabotaging gears, motors, electric transformers and many other uses (use your wicked imagination)

Hole Burning Device

1) Cut cardboard cylinder into 2 equal parts2) Cut one piece to a height of 2" and cut 2 air vent notches on the open end.

3) Fill other section approx. 2/3 with thermite4) Bury an igniter cluster just under the surface of the thermite5) Place empty piece OPEN END DOWN on the area you wish to penetrate6) Place filled section metal end down on top of open vented piece so that metal ends of the cylinder are touching

Should look like this:- Cut away view -

""



!######%%""%%#####! ! = Cardboard cylinder!######%%""%%#####! # = Thermite!######%%%%%%#####! % = Igniter cluster!######%%%%%%#####! " = Fuse!######%%%%%%#####! + = Metal end!#################!!#################!!#################!!#################!++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++! !! !! !! !! !! !! !! !! !! !!!!!! !! ! ! !!!!!!!!! / !!!!!!!

air vent notch

The above device will melt a hole through 3/8" steel plate by dropping extremly hot particles of molten iron onto the metal. Its great for destroying cars (put over engine block or gas tank hehez), and lots of other stuff...

Exploding incediary device

Extra materials needed:Gun PowderSmall glass bottle (aspirin bottle works good)

1) TIGHTLY PACK gunpowder into glass bottle.2) Put hole large enough for fuse in lid of glass bottle.

3) Put a VERY short fuse (about 1/2") into hole4) Build Thermite welding device as per instructions except place glass powder bottle on bottom of cardboard cylinder before filling with thermite.

This device should cause a small explosion and spray molten thermite in a 5-10 foot radius (good for starting fires around flammable items). The molten thermite burns enough to light the fuse setting off the gunpowder charge in the bottle.

[ ] * CHEMICAL FIRE BOTTLE *

The chemical fire bottle is really an advanced molotov cocktail. Ratherthan using the burning cloth to ignite the flammable liquid, which has at best

a fair chance of igniting the liquid, the chemical fire bottle utilizes the veryhot and violent reaction between sulfuric acid and potassium chlorate. When thecontainer breaks, the sulfuric acid in the mixture of gasoline sprays onto thepaper soaked in potassium chlorate and sugar. The paper, when struck by theacid, instantly bursts into a white flame, igniting the gasoline. The chanceof failure to ignite the gasoline is less than 2%, and can be reduced to 0%, ifthere is enough potassium chlorate and sugar to spare.

MATERIALS EQUIPMENT



2 teaspoons potassium chlorate 12 oz. glass bottle sugar (2 teaspoons) cap for bottle,with plastic inside concentrated sulfuric acid(4 oz.) cooking pan with raised edges gasoline (8 oz.) paper towels glass or plastic cup and spoon

1) Test the cap of the bottle with a few drops of sulfuric acid to make sure that the acid will not eat away the bottle cap during storage. If the acid eats through it in 24 hours, a new top must be found and tested, until a cap that the acid does not eat through is found. A glass top is excellent.

2) Carefully pour 8 oz. of gasoline into the glass bottle.

3) Carefully pour 4 oz. of concentrated sulfuric acid into the glass bottle. Wipe up any spills of acid on the sides of the bottle, and screw the cap on the bottle. Wash the bottle's outside with plenty of water. Set it aside to dry.

4) Put about two teaspoons of potassium chlorate and about two teaspoons of sugar into the glass or plastic cup. Add about 1/2 cup of boiling water, or enough to dissolve all of the potassium chlorate and sugar.

5) Place a sheet of paper towel in the cooking pan with raised edges. Fold the paper towel in half, and pour the solution of dissolved potassium

chlorate and sugar on it until it is thoroughly wet. Allow the towel to dry.

6) When it is dry, put some glue on the outside of the glass bottle containing the gasoline and sulfuric acid mixture. Wrap the paper towel around the bottle, making sure that it sticks to it in all places. Store the bottle in a place where it will not be broken or tipped over.

7) When finished, the solution in the bottle should appear as two distinct liquids, a dark brownish-red solution on the bottom, and a clear solution on top. The two solutions will not mix. To use the chemical fire bottle, simply throw it at any hard surface.

8) NEVER OPEN THE BOTTLE, SINCE SOME SULFURIC ACID MIGHT BE ON THE CAP,WHICH COULD TRICKLE DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BOTTLE AND IGNITE THE POTASSIUMCHLORATE, CAUSING A FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION.

9) To test the device, tear a small piece of the paper towel off the bottle, and put a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. The paper towel should immediately burst into a white flame.

[ ] *PAPER CONTAINERS*

Paper was the first container ever used for explosives, since it was

first used by the Chinese to make fireworks. Paper containers are usually verysimple to make, and are certainly the cheapest. There are many possible usesfor paper in containing explosives, and the two most obvious are in firecrackersand rocket engines. Simply by rolling up a long sheet of paper, and gluing ittogether, one can make a simple rocket engine. Perhaps a more interesting anddangerous use is in the firecracker. The firecracker shown here is one ofMexican design. It is called a "polumna", meaning "dove". The process of theirmanufacture is not unlike that of making a paper football. If one takes a sheetof paper about 16 inches in length by 1.5 inches wide, and fold one corner sothat it looks like this:



________________________________________________________ | |\ | | \ | | \ |______________________________________________________|___\

and then fold it again so that it looks like this:

_______________________________________________________ | /| | / | | / | |__________________________________________________/___|

A pocket is formed. This pocket can be filled with black powder, pyrodex,flash powder, gunpowder,rocket engine powder, or any of the quick-burning fuel-oxodizer mixtures that occur in the form of a fine powder. A fuse is theninserted, and one continues the triangular folds, being careful not to spillout any of the explosive. When the polumna is finished, it should be tapedtogether very tightly, since this will increase the strength of the container,and produce a louder and more powerful explosion when it is lit. The finishedpolumna should look like a 1/4 inch - 1/3 inch thick triangle, like the one

shown below: ^ / \ ----- securely tape all corners / \ / \ / \ / \ / \____________________________ /_____________\__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/ ---------- fuse

[ ] * METAL CONTAINERS* The classic pipe bomb is the best known example of a metal-containedexplosive. Idiot anarchists take white tipped matches and cut off the matchheads. They pound one end of a pipe closed with a hammer, pour in the white-tipped matches, and then pound the other end closed. This process often killsthe fool, since when he pounds the pipe closed, he could very easily causeenough friction between the match heads to cause them to ignite and explode theunfinished bomb. By using pipe caps, the process is somewhat safer, and theless stupid anarchist would never use white tipped matches in a bomb. He wouldbuy two pipe caps and threaded pipe (fig. 1). First, he would drill a hole inone pipe cap, and put a fuse in it so that it will not come out, and so powderwill not escape during handling. The fuse would be at least 3/4 an inch long

inside the bomb. He would then screw the cap with the fuse in it on tightly,possibly putting a drop of super glue on it to hold it tight. He would thenpour his explosive powder in the bomb. To pack it tightly, he would take alarge wad of tissue paper and, after filling the pipe to the very top, pack thepowder down, by using the paper as a ramrod tip, and pushing it with a pencilor other wide ended object, until it would not move any further. Finally, hewould screw the other pipe cap on, and glue it. The tissue paper would helpprevent some of the powder from being caught in the threads of the pipe or pipecap from being crushed and subject to friction, which might ignite the powder,causing an explosion during manufacture. An assembled bomb is shown in fig. 2.



_________ _______________ __________ | | ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^ | | | |vvvvv| |_________________________| |vvvvvv| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | ___________________________ | | | | | | | | | |^^^^^| vvvvvv_______________vvvvvv |^^^^^^| | |_______| |________|

fig 1. Threaded pipe and endcaps.

________ ________ | _____|________________________________|_____ | | |__________________________________________| | | |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| | | | tissue | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |_| | | : : : |- - - low order explosive - - ---------------------- | | paper | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |-| fuse | |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| | | |________|_________________________________| |

| |__________________________________________| | |______| |______|

endcap pipe endcap w/ hole

fig. 2 Assembled pipe bomb.

This is one possible design that a mad bomber would use. If, however,he did not have access to threaded pipe with endcaps, he could always use apiece of copper or aluminum pipe, since it is easily bent into a suitableposition. A major problem with copper piping, however, is bending and foldingit without tearing it; if too much force is used when folding and bending copper

pipe, it will split along the fold. The safest method for making a pipe bombout of copper or aluminum pipe is similar to the method with pipe and endcaps.First, one flattens one end of a copper or aluminum pipe carefully, making surenot to tear or rip the piping. Then, the flat end of the pipe should be foldedover at least once, if this does not rip the pipe. A fuse hole should bedrilled in the pipe near the now closed end, and the fuse should be inserted.Next, the bomb-builder would fill the bomb with a low order explosive, and packit with a large wad of tissue paper. He would then flatten and fold the otherend of the pipe with a pair of pliers. If he was not too dumb, he would do thisslowly, since the process of folding and bending metal gives off heat, whichcould set off the explosive. A diagram is presented below:

________

_______________________________________________/ | | | | o | |______________________________________________ | \_______|

fig. 1 pipe with one end flattened and fuse hole drilled (top view)

______ ____________________________________________/ | |



| | | | o | | |___________________________________________ | | \__|__|

fig. 2 pipe with one end flattened and folded up (top view)

____________ fuse hole | v _________________________________________________ | \ |____ | | \____| | | ______| | / |_____________________________/__________________

fig. 3 pipe with flattened and folded end (side view)

_________________ fuse / | ________ ______________________________|___ _______ | ____| / |- - - - - - - - - - -| - - \ |___ |

| |_____/tissue| - - - - - - - - - - - -|- - \_____| | |________ paper |- - - low order explosive - _______| \ | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - / \_____________________________________/

fig. 4 completed bomb, showing tissue paper packing and explosive (side view)

A CO2 cartridge from a B.B gun is another excellent container for

a low-order explosive. It has one minor disadvantage: it is time consumingto fill. But this can be rectified by widening the opening of the cartridgewith a pointed tool. Then, all that would have to be done is to fill theCO2 cartridge with any low-order explosive, or any of the fast burning fuel-oxodizer mixtures, and insert a fuse. These devices are commonly called"crater makers".

A CO2 cartridge also works well as a container for a thermit incendiarydevice, but it must be modified. The opening in the end must be widened, sothat the ignition mixture, such as powdered magnesium, does not explode. Thefuse will ignite the powdered magnesium, which, in turn, would ignite thethermit. The previously mentioned designs for explosive devices are fine for

low-order explosives, but are unsuitable for high-order explosives, since thelatter requires a shockwave to be detonated. A design employing a smallerlow-order explosive device inside a larger device containing a high-orderexplosive would probably be used. It would look something like:

_______________________ fuse | | | _________ | _________



/ \ / \ | | fill bottle with low-order explosive | | | | | | | | |___________|

Large explosive devices made from glass containers are not practicle,since glass is not an exceptionally strong container. Much of the explosivethat is used to fill the container is wasted if the container is much largerthan a 16 oz. soda bottle. Also, glass containers are usually unsuitable forhigh explosive devices, since a glass container would probably not withstandthe explosion of the initiator; it would shatter before the high explosive wasable to detonate.

[ ] * PLASTIC CONTAINERS*

Plastic containers are perhaps the best containers for explosives, sincethey can be any size or shape, and are not fragile like glass. Plastic pipingcan be bought at hardware or plumbing stores, and a device much like the ones

used for metal containers can be made. The high-order version works well withplastic piping. If the entire device is made out of plastic, it is notdetectable by metal detectors. Plastic containers can usually be shaped byheating the container, and bending it at the appropriate place. They can beglued closed with epoxy or other cement for plastics. Epoxy alone can be usedas an endcap, if a wad of tissue paper is placed in the piping. Epoxy with adrying agent works best in this type of device.

|| || || || ||\_____________/|| || ||

|| epoxy || ||_______________|| || || || tissue || || paper || ||_______________|| ||***************|| ||***************|| ||***************|| ||***************|| ||** explosive **|| ||***************|| ||***********----------------------- fuse

||***************|| ||DDDDDDDDDDDDDDD|| || || || tissue || || paper || ||_______________|| || || || epoxy || || _____________ || ||/ \||



| | | / \ | | | | |/ \| | | hole for | | | | hole for | screw | | | | screw | | | | | V_______ ___________| | | |___________ ________ |______| |____________| |_____________| |______|

|<------- 8 inches -------->|

If a device such as this is screwed to a safe, for example, it woulddirect most of the explosive force at a point about 1 inch away from the openingof the pipe. The basis for shaped charges is a cone-shaped opening in theexplosive material. This cone should have an angle of 45 degrees. A devicesuch as this one could also be attached to a metal surface with a powerfulelectromagnet.

[ ] *TUBE EXPLOSIVES*

A variation on shaped charges, tube explosives can be used in ways thatshaped charges cannot. If a piece of 1/2 inch plastic tubing was filled witha sensitive high explosive like R.D.X., and prepared as the plastic explosive

container in section 4.44, a different sort of shaped charge could be produced;a charge that directs explosive force in a circular manner. This type ofexplosive could be wrapped around a column, or a doorknob, or a telephone pole.The explosion would be directed in and out, and most likely destroy whateverit was wrapped around. In an unbent state, a tube explosive would look likethis:

|| || || || ||\____/|| || epoxy|| ||______||

|| || ||tissue|| || paper|| ||______|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******||

||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| || RDX || ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******||



||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| ||******|| || ____ || || | s| || || | q| || || | u| || || | i| || || | b| || || | b| || || |__| || ||__||__|| ||tissue|| || paper|| ||__||__|| || || || || epoxy||

|| || || || _||_ || ||/ || \|| || || || || || || ||_______ + wire ______________ | |________ - wire ______________

When an assassin or terrorist wishes to use a tube bomb, he must wrapit around whatever thing he wishes to destroy, and epoxy the ends of the tubebomb together. After it dries, he/she can connect wires to the squib wires,

and detonate the bomb, with any method of electric detonation.

[ ] *ATOMIZED PARTICLE EXPLOSIONS*

If a highly flammable substance is atomized, or, divided into very smallparticles, and large amounts of it is burned in a confined area, an explosionsimilar to that occurring in the cylinder of an automobile is produced. Thetiny droplets of gasoline burn in the air, and the hot gasses expand rapidly,pushing the cylinder up. Similarly, if a gallon of gasoline was atomized andignited in a building, it is very possible that the expanding gassed would pushthe walls of the building down. This phenomenon is called an atomized particleexplosion. If a person can effectively atomize a large amount of a highly

flammable substance and ignite it, he could bring down a large building, bridge,or other structure. Atomizing a large amount of gasoline, for example, can beextremely difficult, unless one has the aid of a high explosive. If a gallonjug of gasoline was placed directly over a high explosive charge, and the chargewas detonated, the gasoline would instantly be atomized and ignited. If thisoccurred in a building, for example, an atomized particle explosion would surelyoccur. Only a small amount of high explosive would be necessary to accomplishthis feat, about 1/2 a pound of T.N.T. or 1/4 a pound of R.D.X. Also, insteadof gasoline, powdered aluminum could be used. It is necessary that a highexplosive be used to atomize a flammable material, since a low-order explosion



does not occur quickly enough to atomize or ignite the flammable material.

[ ] *BOW AND CROSSBOW AMMUNITION*

Bows and crossbows both fire arrows or bolts as ammunition. It isextremely simple to poison an arrow or bolt, but it is a more difficult matterto produce explosive arrows or bolts. If, however, one can acquire aluminumpiping that is the same diameter of an arrow or crossbow bolt, the entiresegment of piping can be converted into an explosive device that detonatesupon impact, or with a fuse. All that need be done is find an aluminum tubeof the right length and diameter, and plug the back end with tissue paper andepoxy. Fill the tube with any type of low-order explosive or sensitive high-order explosive up to about 1/2 an inch from the top. Cut a slot in the pieceof tubing, and carefully squeeze the top of the tube into a round point, makingsure to leave a small hole. Place a no. 11 percussion cap over the hole, andsecure it with super glue. Finally, wrap the end of the device with electricalor duct tape, and make fins out of tape. Or, fins can be bought at a sportinggoods store, and glued to the shaft. The finished product should look like:

_____ | | ---------- no. 11 percussion cap ||*||

|*| |*| |*| |*| |*| |*| ----------- aluminum piping |*| |e| |x| |p| |l| |o| |s|

|i| |v| |e| |*| |*| |*| |*| |*| |*| |*| /|_|\ / |t| \ | |p| |

| |_| | | |e| | -------- fins | |p| | | |y| | |_|_|_| |_|

tp: tissue paper



epy: epoxy

When the arrow or bolt strikes a hard surface, the percussion capexplodes, igniting or detonating the explosive.

[ ] *SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR BLOWGUNS*

The blowgun is an interesting weapon which has several advantages.A blowgun can be extremely accurate, concealable, and deliver an explosiveor poisoned projectile. The manufacture of an explosive dart or projectileis not difficult. Perhaps the most simple design for such involves the useof a pill capsule, such as the kind that are taken for headaches or allergies.Such a capsule could easily be opened, and the medicine removed. Next, thecapsule would be re-filled with an impact-sensitive explosive. An additionalhigh explosive charge could be placed behind the impact-sensitive explosive,if one of the larger capsules were used. Finally, the explosive capsule wouldbe reglued back together, and a tassel or cotton would be glued to the endcontaining the high explosive, to insure that the impact-detonating explosivestruck the target first. Such a device would probably be about 3/4 of an inchlong, not including the tassel or cotton, and look something like this:

____________________

/mercury | \----------------------- (fulminate| R.D.X. )---------------------- } tassels \________|___________/-----------------------

[ ] *SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR WRISTROCKETS AND SLINGSHOTS*

A modern wristrocket is a formidable weapon. It can throw a shootermarble about 500 ft. with reasonable accuracy. Inside of 200 ft., it could wellbe lethal to a man or animal, if it struck in a vital area. Because of therelatively large sized projectile that can be used in a wristrocket, thewristrocket can be adapted to throw relatively powerful explosive projectiles.A small segment of aluminum pipe could be made into an impact-detonating device

by filling it with an impact-sensitive explosive material. Also, such a pipecould be filled with a low-order explosive, and fitted with a fuse, which wouldbe lit before the device was shot. One would have to make sure that the fusewas of sufficient length to insure that the device did not explode before itreached its intended target. Finally, .22 caliber caps, such as the kind thatare used in .22 caliber blank guns, make excellent exploding ammunition forwristrockets, but they must be used at a relatively close range, because oftheir light weight.

[ ] *SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR SHOTGUNS*

Because of their large bore and high power, it is possible to createsome extremely powerful special ammunition for use in shotguns. If a shotgun

shell is opened at the top, and the shot removed, the shell can be re-closed.Then, if one can find a very smooth, lightweight wooden dowel that is close tothe bore width of the shotgun, a person can make several types of shotgun-launched weapons. Insert the dowel in the barrel of the shotgun with theshell without the shot in the firing chamber. Mark the dowel about six inchesaway from the end of the barrel, and remove it from the barrel. Next, decidewhat type of explosive or incendiary device is to be used. This device can be achemical fire bottle (sect. 3.43), a pipe bomb (sect 4.42), or a thermit bomb(sect 3.41 and 4.42). After the device is made, it must be securely attached tothe dowel. When this is done, place the dowel back in the shotgun. The bomb or



incendiary device should be on the end of the dowel. Make sure that the devicehas a long enough fuse, light the fuse, and fire the shotgun. If the projectileis not too heavy, ranges of up to 300 ft are possible. A diagram of a shotgunprojectile is shown below:

____ || | || | || | ----- bomb, securely taped to dowel || | ||__| || | || | ------- fuse || | || || || || --------- dowel || || || || || || --------- insert this end into shotgun

[ ] Shotgun shell bomb These little goodies are affectionately known as "nut busters." They aresimply shotgun shells enclosed in cardboard rolls with cardboard fins put on.On the primer end of the shell is glued a small cork with a hole drilledthrough it. A roofing nail fits in the hole snugly enough to stay in, butloose enough to plunge into the primer upon impact.

Since the shell is not confined in the chamber of the gun, it willnaturally not cause the same amount of damage. But if it goes off between afellow's legs he can look forward to becoming a soprano.

These bombs are thrown singly or by the handful into the air over millingcrowds. The weight of the shell and stabilization by the fins causes the nutbuster to head straight downward.

It has tremendous effect as its presence is usually a suprise. The threatof more coming is guaranteed to route any mob.

Not only does it go off on the pavement but it will also explode oncontact with a person's head or shoulder. At night it is impossible to traceits point of origin.

-----

! % /> ! % /- Cork Fins ! ! v --------------------!% ! % ! !-----! ! % ! ! %> !------ ! ! !---! <-- Roofing nail ! ! !-----! ! / ! % --------------------!/ % ! ! ^ %-> ! / ^ %



! / ! % ----- ! Shell ! ! Close fitting 3-1/2 inch Aluminum Tubing Glued on Shell.

SHOTGUN SHELL BOMB

A clever use for a plain shotgun shell is as a muffler bomb. The shell issimply shoved up a car's exhaust pipe with a length of stiff wire until itdrops into the muffler. After a few minutes on the road the shell explodes,totalling out the muffler and treating the driver to a sick kind of panic.

[ ] *SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR B.B GUNS*

A B.B gun, for this manuscript, will be considered any type of rifle orpistol that uses compressed air or CO2 gas to fire a projectile with a caliberof .177, either B.B, or lead pellet. Such guns can have almost as high a muzzlevelocity as a bullet-firing rifle. Because of the speed at which a .177 caliberprojectile flies, an impact detonating projectile can easily be made that has acaliber of .177. Most ammunition for guns of greater than .22 caliber useprimers to ignite the powder in the bullet. These primers can be bought at gunstores, since many people like to reload their own bullets. Such primers

detonate when struck by the firing pin of a gun. They will also detonate ifthey are thrown at a hard surface at a great speed. Usually, they will also fitin the barrel of a .177 caliber gun. If they are inserted flat end first, theywill detonate when the gun is fired at a hard surface. If such a primer isattached to a piece of thin metal tubing, such as that used in an antenna, thetube can be filled with an explosive, be sealed, and fired from a B.B gun. Adiagram of such a projectile appears below:

_____ primers _______ | | | | | | V V

______ ______ | ________________________ |------------------- | ****** explosive ******* |------------------- } tassel or | ________________________ |------------------- cotton |_____ _____|------------------- ^ | | |_______ antenna tubing

The front primer is attached to the tubing with a drop of super glue.The tubing is then filled with an explosive, and the rear primer is glued on.Finally, a tassel, or a small piece of cotton is glued to the rear primer, to

insure that the projectile strikes on the front primer. The entire projectileshould be about 3/4 of an inch long.

[ ] *SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR .22 CALIBER PELLET GUNS*

A .22 caliber pellet gun usually is equivalent to a .22 cal rifle, atclose ranges. Because of this, relatively large explosive projectiles can beadapted for use with .22 caliber air rifles. A design similar to that used insection 5.12 is suitable, since some capsules are about .22 caliber or smaller.



Or, a design similar to that in section 5.31 could be used, only one would haveto purchase black powder percussion caps, instead of ammunition primers, sincethere are percussion caps that are about .22 caliber. A #11 cap is too small,but anything larger will do nicely.

[ ] *ROCKETS*

Rockets were first developed by the Chinese several hundred yearsbefore Christ. They were used for entertainment, in the form of fireworks.They were not usually used for military purposes because they were inaccurate,expensive, and unpredictable. In modern times, however, rockets are usedconstantly by the military, since they are cheap, reliable, and have no recoil.Perpetrators of violence, fortunately, cannot obtain military rockets, but theycan make or buy rocket engines. Model rocketry is a popular hobby of the spaceage, and to launch a rocket, an engine is required. Estes, a subsidiary ofDamon, is the leading manufacturer of model rockets and rocket engines. Theirmost powerful engine, the "D" engine, can develop almost 12 lbs. of thrust;enough to send a relatively large explosive charge a significant distance.Other companies, such as Centuri, produce even larger rocket engines, whichdevelop up to 30 lbs. of thrust. These model rocket engines are quite reliable,and are designed to be fired electrically. Most model rocket engines havethree basic sections. The diagram below will help explain them.

__________________________________________________________

|_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard \ clay | - - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|c| casing \_______| - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . |l| ______ _ - - - thrust - - - | smoke | eject |a| / clay | - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|y| /________|_____________________|_______|________|_|_______ |_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard casing

The clay nozzle is where the igniter is inserted. When the area labeled"thrust" is ignited, the "thrust" material, usually a large single grain of apropellant such as black powder or pyrodex, burns, forcing large volumes of hot,

rapidly expanding gasses out the narrow nozzle, pushing the rocket forward.After the material has been consumed, the smoke section of the engine isignited. It is usually a slow-burning material, similar to black powder thathas had various compounds added to it to produce visible smoke, usually black,white, or yellow in color. This section exists so that the rocket will be seenwhen it reaches its maximum altitude, or apogee. When it is burned up, itignites the ejection charge, labeled "eject". The ejection charge is finelypowdered black powder. It burns very rapidly, exploding, in effect. Theexplosion of the ejection charge pushes out the parachute of the model rocket.It could also be used to ignite the fuse of a bomb...

Rocket engines have their own peculiar labeling system. Typical enginelabels are: 1/4A-2T, 1/2A-3T, A8-3, B6-4, C6-7, and D12-5. The letter is an

indicator of the power of an engine. "B" engines are twice as powerful as "A"engines, and "C" engines are twice as powerful as "B" engines, and so on. Thenumber following the letter is the approximate thrust of the engine, in pounds.the final number and letter is the time delay, from the time that the thrustperiod of engine burn ends until the ejection charge fires; "3T" indicates a3 second delay.

NOTE: an extremely effective rocket propellant can be made by mixing aluminum dust with ammonium perchlorate and a very small amount of iron oxide. The mixture is bound together by an epoxy.



[ ] *Rocket Bomb*

A rocket bomb is simply what the name implies: a bomb that is deliveredto its target by means of a rocket. Most people who would make such a devicewould use a model rocket engine to power the device. By cutting fins from balsawood and gluing them to a large rocket engine, such as the Estes "C" engine, abasic rocket could be constructed. Then, by attaching a "crater maker", or CO2cartridge bomb to the rocket, a bomb would be added. To insure that the fuse ofthe "crater maker" (see sect. 4.42) ignited, the clay over the ejection chargeof the engine should be scraped off with a plastic tool. The fuse of the bombshould be touching the ejection charge, as shown below.

____________ rocket engine | _________ crater maker | | | | V | _______________________________V_ |_______________________________| ______________________ \ | - - - - - -|***|::::| /# # # # # # # # # # # \ \__| - - - - - -|***|::::| ___/ # # # # # # # # # # # \ __ - - - - - -|***|::::|---fuse--- # # explosive # # )

/ | - - - - - -|***|::::| ___ # # # # # # # # # # # / /___|____________|___|____|____ \_______________________/ |_______________________________|

thrust> - - - - - - smoke> *** ejection charge> ::::

Duct tape is the best way to attach the crater maker to the rocketengine. Note in the diagram the absence of the clay over the ejection chargeMany different types of explosive payloads can be attached to the rocket, suchas a high explosive, an incendiary device, or a chemical fire bottle.

Either four or three fins must be glued to the rocket engine to insure thatthe rocket flies straight. The fins should look like the following diagram:

|\ | \ | \ | \ <--------- glue this to rocket engine | \ | \ | \ | | | | | |

leading edge | -------> | | | | | trailing edge | | <-------- | | | | | | | | \_____/



The leading edge and trailing edge should be sanded with sandpaper sothat they are rounded. This will help make the rocket fly straight. A twoinch long section of a plastic straw can be attached to the rocket to launch itfrom. A clothes hanger can be cut and made into a launch rod. The segment ofa plastic straw should be glued to the rocket engine adjacent to one of the finsof the rocket. A front view of a completed rocket bomb is shown below.

| fin | <------ fin | | | | | | | __|__ | V / \ V ---------------| |--------------- \_____/ |o <----------- segment of plastic straw | | | <------ fin | |

By cutting a coat hanger at the indicated arrows, and bending it, alaunch rod can be made. After a fuse is inserted in the engine, the rocket issimply slid down the launch rod, which is put through the segment of plasticstraw. The rocket should slide easily along a coathanger, such as the oneillustated on the following page:

____ / \ | | cut here _____ | | | | | | / \

V / \ _________________/ \________________ / \ / \ /____________________________________________\ ^ | | and here ______|

Bend wire to this shape:

_______ insert into straw | | | V ____________________________________________ \ \ \



\ \ <--------- bend here to adjust flight angle | | | | | | <---------- put this end in ground |

[ ] *Rocket Bomb - (Long Range)*

Long range rockets can be made by using multi-stage rockets. Modelrocket engines with an "0" for a time delay are designed for use in multi-stage rockets. An engine such as the D12-0 is an excellent example of such anengine. Immediately after the thrust period is over, the ejection chargeexplodes. If another engine is placed directly against the back of an "0"engine, the explosion of the ejection charge will send hot gasses and burningparticles into the nozzle of the engine above it, and ignite the thrust section. This will push the used "0" engine off of the rocket, causing an overall loss ofweight. The main advantage of a multi-stage rocket is that it loses weight astravels, and it gains velocity. A multi-stage rocket must be designed somewhat

differently than a single stage rocket, since, in order for a rocket to flystraight, its center of gravity must be ahead of its center of drag. This isaccomplished by adding weight to the front of the rocket, or by moving thecenter of drag back by putting fins on the rocket that are well behind therocket. A diagram of a multi-stage rocket appears on the following page:

___ / \ | | | C | | M | ------ CM: Crater Maker | | | |

|___| | | | | | | | C | ------ C6-5 rocket engine /| 6 |\ / | | | \ / | 5 | \ / |___| \ ---- fin / /| |\ \ / / | | \ \ / / | | \ \ / / | C | \ \

| / | 6 | \ | | / | | | \ | | / | 0 | \ | |/ |___| \| | / \ | \______/ ^ \______/ ------- fin | | | |



[ ] *Cannon*

The cannon is a piece of artillery that has been in use since the11th century. It is not unlike a musket, in that it is filled with powder,loaded, and fired. Cannons of this sort must also be cleaned after each shot,otherwise, the projectile may jam in the barrel when it is fired, causing thebarrel to explode. A sociopath could build a cannon without too much trouble,if he/she had a little bit of money, and some patience.

[ ] *Pipe Cannon*

A simple cannon can be made from a thick pipe by almost anyone. Theonly difficult part is finding a pipe that is extremely smooth on its interior.This is absolutely necessary; otherwise, the projectile may jam. Copper oraluminum piping is usually smooth enough, but it must also be extremely thick towithstand the pressure developed by the expanding hot gasses in a cannon. Ifone uses a projectile such as a CO2 cartridge, since such a projectile can bemade to explode, a pipe that is about 1.5 - 2 feet long is ideal. Such a pipeMUST have walls that are at least 1/3 to 1/2 an inch thick, and be very smoothon the interior. If possible, screw an endplug into the pipe. Otherwise, thepipe must be crimped and folded closed, without cracking or tearing the pipe.A small hole is drilled in the back of the pipe near the crimp or endplug.Then, all that need be done is fill the pipe with about two teaspoons of

grade blackpowder or pyrodex, insert a fuse, pack it lightly by ramming a wadof tissue paper down the barrel, and drop in a CO2 cartridge. Brace the cannonsecurely against a strong structure, light the fuse, and run. If the person islucky, he will not have overcharged the cannon, and he will not be hit bypieces of exploding barrel. Such a cannon would look like this:

__________________ fuse hole | | V ________________________________________________________________ | |______________________________________________________________| |endplug|powder|t.p.| CO2 cartridge

| ______|______|____|____________________________________________ |_|______________________________________________________________|

An exploding projectile can be made for this type of cannon with a CO2cartridge. It is relatively simple to do. Just make a crater maker, andconstruct it such that the fuse projects about an inch from the end of thecartridge. Then, wrap the fuse with duct tape, covering it entirely, except fora small amount at the end. Put this in the pipe cannon without using a tissuepaper packing wad. When the cannon is fired, it will ignite the end of the fuse,and shoot the CO2 cartridge. The explosive-filled cartridge will explode inabout three seconds, if all goes well. Such a projectile would look like this:

___

/ \ | | | C | | M | | | | | |\ /| | | | ---- tape |_|_| |



| ------ fuse

[ ] *Rocket Firing Cannon*

A rocket firing cannon can be made exactly like a normal cannon; theonly difference is the ammunition. A rocket fired from a cannon will flyfurther than a rocket alone, since the action of shooting it overcomes theinitial inertia. A rocket that is launched when it is moving will go furtherthan one that is launched when it is stationary. Such a rocket would resemblea normal rocket bomb, except it would have no fins. It would look like this:

___ / \ | | | C | | M | | | | | |___| | E | | N | | G | | I |

| N | | E | |___|

the fuse on such a device would, obviously, be short, but it would notbe ignited until the rocket's ejection charge exploded. Thus, the delay beforethe ejection charge, in effect, becomes the delay before the bomb explodes.Note that no fuse need be put in the rocket; the burning powder in the cannonwill ignite it, and simultaneously push the rocket out of the cannon at a highvelocity.

[ ] *HOME-BREW BLAST CANON*

Materials: ---> 1 plastic drain pipe, 3 feet long, at least 3 1/2 inches in diameter ---> 1 smaller plastic pipe, about 6 inches long, 2 inches in diameter ---> 1 large lighter, w/ fluid refills (this gobbles it up) ---> 1 pipe cap to fit the large pipe, 1 pipe cap to fit the smaller pipe ---> 5 feet of bell wire ---> 1 SPST rocker switch ---> 1 6v polaroid potapulse battery ---> 1 5v relay (get this at radio shack) ---> electrical tape ---> one free afternoon

Procedure: 1. cut the bell wire into 3 equal pieces, and strip the ends 2. cut a hole in the side of the large pipe, the same diameter as the small pipe; thread the hole and one end of the small pipe. They should screw together easily. 3. take a piece of scrap metal, and bend it into an "L" shape, then attach it to the lever on the lighter like so: /----------- gas switch is here ________ V / \__-----\



! lighter ! ! <--- metal lever ! ! ! ! ! Now, every time you pull the "trigger", gas should flow freely from the lighter; you may need to enlarge the "gas port" on the lighter, if you wish to be able to fire more rapidly. 4. connect 2 wires to the two posts on the switch 5. cut to holes in the side of the smaller tube, one for the switch on the bottom, and one for the metal piece on top; then mount the switch in the bottom, running the wires up and out the top; mount the

lighter/trigger in the top; now the switch should rock easily, and the trigger should cause the lighter to pour out gas. Re-screw the smaller tube into the larger one, hold own the trigger a bit, let it go, and throw a match in there; if all goes well, you should get a nice big "THUD!" 6. get hold of the relay, and take off the top:

1 ----------+ V _/ 2 --------/ <---- the center object is the metal ^ finger inside the relay 3 ----------+

CC OO -------- 4 II LL -------- 5

Connect (1) to one of the wires comming from the switch; connect (2) to (4), and connect (5) to one side of the battery; connect the remaining wire from the switch to the other side of the battery; now you should be able to get the relay to make a little "buzzing" sound when you flip the switch and you should see some tiny little sparks. 7. now, carefully mount the relay on the inside of the large pipe,

towards the back; screw on the smaller pipe; tape the battery to the side of the canon barrel (yes, but looks arent everything) 8. you should now be able to let a little gas into the barrel and set it off by flipping the switch. 9. put the cap on the back end of the large pipe VERY SECURELY. You are now ready for the first trial-run.

To Test:

Put something very very large into the barrel, just so that in fits "just right". Now, find a strong guy (the recoil will probably knock you over if you arent careful). Put on a shoulder pad, and earmuffs, and

possibly some other protective clothing. Hold the trigger down for 30

seconds, hold on tight, and hit the switch. With luck and the proper adjustments, you should be able to put a frozen orange through 1/4 plywood at 25 feet. Have phun!

[ ] *TEAR GAS*

A terrorist who could make tear gas or some similar compound could useit with ease against a large number of people. Tear gas is fairly complicated



to make, however, and this prevents such individuals from being able to utilizeits great potential for harm. One method for its preparation is shown below.

EQUIPMENT

1. ring stands (2) 2. alcohol burner 3. erlenmeyer flask, 300 ml 4. clamps (2) 5. rubber stopper 6. glass tubing 7. clamp holder 8. condenser 9. rubber tubing 10. collecting flask 11. air trap 12. beaker, 300 ml

MATERIALS

10 gms glycerine 2 gms sodium bisulfate distilled water

1.) In an open area, wearing a gas mask, mix 10 gms of glycerine with 2 gms of sodium bisulfate in the 300 ml erlenmeyer flask.

2.) Light the alcohol burner, and gently heat the flask.

3.) The mixture will begin to bubble and froth; these bubbles are tear gas.

4.) When the mixture being heated ceases to froth and generate gas, or a brown residue becomes visible in the tube, the reaction is complete. Remove the heat source, and dispose of the heated mixture, as it is corrosive.

5.) The material that condenses in the condenser and drips into the collecting

flask is tear gas. It must be capped tightly, and stored in a safe place.

[ ] *FIRECRACKERS*

A simple firecracker can be made from cardboard tubing and epoxy.The instructions are below:

1) Cut a small piece of cardboard tubing from the tube you are using. "Small" means anything less than 4 times the diameter of the tube.

2) Set the section of tubing down on a piece of wax paper, and fill it with epoxy and the drying agent to a height of 3/4 the diameter

of the tubing. Allow the epoxy to dry to maximum hardness, as specified on the package.

3) When it is dry, put a small hole in the middle of the tube, and insert a desired length of fuse.

4) Fill the tube with any type of flame-sensitive explosive. Flash powder, pyrodex, black powder, potassium picrate, lead azide, nitrocellulose, or any of the fast burning fuel-oxodizer mixtures will do nicely. Fill the tube almost to the top.



5) Pack the explosive tightly in the tube with a wad of tissue paper and a pencil or other suitable ramrod. Be sure to leave enough space for more epoxy.

6) Fill the remainder of the tube with the epoxy and hardener, and allow it to dry.

7) For those who wish to make spectacular firecrackers, always use flash powder, mixed with a small amount of other material for colors. By crushing the material on a sparkler, and adding it to the flash powder, the explosion will be the same color as the sparkler. By adding small chunks of sparkler material, the device will throw out colored burning sparks, of the same color as the sparkler. By adding powdered iron, orange sparks will be produced. White sparks can be produced from magnesium shavings, or from small, LIGHTLY crumpled balls of aluminum foil.

Example: Suppose I wish to make a firecracker that will explode with a red flash, and throw out white sparks. First, I would take a road flare, and finely powder the material inside it. Or, I could take a red sparkler, and finely powder it. Then, I would mix a small amount of this material with the flash powder. (NOTE: FLASH POWDER

MAY REACT WITH SOME MATERIALS THAT IT IS MIXED WITH, AND EXPLODE SPONTANEOUSLY!) I would mix it in a ratio of 9 parts flash powder to 1 part of flare or sparkler material, and add about 15 small balls of aluminum foil I would store the material in a plastic bag overnight outside of the house, to make sure that the stuff doesn't react. Then, in the morning, I would test a small amount of it, and if it was satisfactory, I would put it in the firecracker.

8) If this type of firecracker is mounted on a rocket engine, professional to semi-professional displays can be produced.

[ ] *SKYROCKETS*

An impressive home made skyrocket can easily be made in the home frommodel rocket engines. Estes engines are recommended.

1) Buy an Estes Model Rocket Engine of the desired size, remembering that the power doubles with each letter. (See sect. 6.1 for details)

2) Either buy a section of body tube for model rockets that exactly fits the engine, or make a tube from several thicknesses of paper and glue.

3) Scrape out the clay backing on the back of the engine, so that the powder is exposed. Glue the tube to the engine, so that the tube covers at least half the engine. Pour a small charge of flash powder in the tube, about 1/2 an inch.

4) By adding materials as detailed in the section on firecrackers, various types of effects can be produced.

5) By putting Jumping Jacks or bottle rockets without the stick in the tube, spectacular displays with moving fireballs or



M.R.V.'s can be produced.

6) Finally, by mounting many home made firecrackers on the tube with the fuses in the tube, multiple colored bursts can be made.

[ ] *ROMAN CANDLES*

Roman candles are impressive to watch. They are relatively difficultto make, compared to the other types of home-made fireworks, but they arewell worth the trouble.

1) Buy a 1/2 inch thick model rocket body tube, and reinforce it with several layers of paper and/or masking tape. This must be done to prevent the tube from exploding. Cut the tube into about 10 inch lengths.

2) Put the tube on a sheet of wax paper, and seal one end with epoxy and the drying agent. About 1/2 of an inch is sufficient.

3) Put a hole in the tube just above the bottom layer of epoxy, and insert a desired length of water proof fuse. Make sure that the fuse fits tightly.

4) Pour about 1 inch of pyrodex or gunpowder down the open end of the tube.

5) Make a ball by powdering about two 6 inch sparklers of the desired color. Mix this powder with a small amount of flash powder and a small amount of pyrodex, to have a final ratio (by volume) of 60% sparkler material / 20% flash powder / 20% pyrodex. After mixing the powders well, add water, one drop at a time, and mixing continuously, until a damp paste is formed. This paste should be moldable by hand, and should retain its shape when left alone. Make a ball out of the paste that just fits into the tube. Allow the ball to dry.

6) When it is dry, drop the ball down the tube. It should slide down fairly easily. Put a small wad of tissue paper in the tube, and pack it gently against the ball with a pencil.

7) When ready to use, put the candle in a hole in the ground, pointed in a safe direction, light the fuse, and run. If the device works, a colored fireball should shoot out of the tube to a height of about 30 feet. This height can be increased by adding a slightly larger powder charge in step 4, or by using a slightly longer tube.

8) If the ball does not ignite, add slightly more pyrodex in step 5.

9) The balls made for roman candles also function very well in rockets,

producing an effect of falling colored fireballs.

[ ] *LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND MORE INFORMATION*

COMPANY NAME AND ADDRESS WHAT COMPANY SELLS FULL AUTO CO. INC. EXPLOSIVE RECIPES, P.O. BOX 1881 PAPER TUBING MURFREESBORO, TN



37133 _____________________________________________________________________________ __

UNLIMITED CHEMICALS AND FUSE BOX 1378-SN HERMISTON, OREGON 97838

_____________________________________________________________________________ __

AMERICAN FIREWORKS NEWS FIREWORKS NEWS MAGAZINE WITH SR BOX 30 SOURCES AND TECHNIQUES DINGMAN'S FERRY, PENNSYLVANIA 18328

_____________________________________________________________________________ __

BARNETT INTERNATIONAL INC. BOWS, CROSSBOWS, ARCHERY MATERIALS, 125 RUNNELS STREET AIR RIFLES P.O. BOX 226 PORT HURON, MICHIGAN 48060

_____________________________________________________________________________ __

CROSSMAN AIR GUNS AIR GUNS

P.O. BOX 22927 ROCHESTER, NEW YORK 14692

_____________________________________________________________________________ __

EXECUTIVE PROTECTION PRODUCTS INC. TEAR GAS GRENADES, 316 CALIFORNIA AVE. PROTECTION DEVICES RENO, NEVADA 89509

_____________________________________________________________________________ __

BADGER FIREWORKS CO. INC. CLASS "B" AND "C" FIREWORKS BOX 1451

JANESVILLE, WISCONSIN 53547 _____________________________________________________________________________ __

NEW ENGLAND FIREWORKS CO. INC. CLASS "C" FIREWORKS P.O. BOX 3504 STAMFORD, CONNECTICUTT 06095

_____________________________________________________________________________ __

RAINBOW TRAIL CLASS "C" FIREWORKS BOX 581 EDGEMONT, PENNSYLVANIA

19028 _____________________________________________________________________________ __

STONINGTON FIREWORKS INC. CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS 4010 NEW WILSEY BAY U.25 ROAD RAPID RIVER, MICHIGAN 49878

_____________________________________________________________________________ __

WINDY CITY FIREWORKS INC. CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS



P.O. BOX 11 (GOOD PRICES!) ROCHESTER, INDIANNA 46975

_____________________________________________________________________________ __

BOOKS

THE ANARCHIST'S COOKBOOKTHE IMPROVISED MUNITIONS MANUALMILITARY EXPLOSIVESFIRES AND EXPLOSIONS

[ ] *CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS*

In the end, the serious terrorist would probably realize that if he/shewishes to make a truly useful explosive, he or she will have to steal thechemicals to make the explosive from a lab. A list of such chemicals in orderof priority would probably resemble the following:

LIQUIDS SOLIDS Nitric Acid Potassium Perchlorate Sulfuric Acid Potassium Chlorate

95% Ethanol Picric Acid (usually a powder) Toluene Ammonium Nitrate Perchloric Acid Powdered Magnesium Hydrochloric Acid Powdered Aluminum Potassium Permanganate Sulfur Mercury Potassium Nitrate Potassium Hydroxide Phosphorus Sodium Azide Lead Acetate Barium Nitrate

[ ] *USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY*

In general, it is possible to make many chemicals from just a few basicones. A list of useful chemical reactions is presented. It assumes knowledgeof general chemistry; any individual who does not understand the followingreactions would merely have to read the first five chapters of a high schoolchemistry book.

1. potassium perchlorate from perchloric acid and potassium hydroxide K(OH) + HClO ----> KClO + H O 4 4 2

2. potassium nitrate from nitric acid and potassium hydroxide " + HNO ----> KNO + " 3 3

3. ammonium perchlorate from perchloric acid and ammonium hydroxide NH OH + HClO ----> NH ClO + " 3 4 3 4

4. ammonium nitrate from nitric acid and ammonium hydroxide



NH OH + HNO ----> NH NO + " 3 3 3 3

5. powdered aluminum from acids, aluminum foil, and magnesium

A. aluminum foil + 6HCl ----> 2AlCl + 3H 3 2

B. 2AlCl (aq) + 3Mg ----> 3MgCl (aq) + 2Al 3 2

The Al will be a very fine silvery powder at the bottom of the containerwhich must be filtered and dried. This same method works with nitric andsulfuric acids, but these acids are too valuable in the production of highexplosives to use for such a purpose, unless they are available in great excess.

[ ] *ways to Torture a Cat*

Many times I have wanted to beat the shit out of that furry little bastard that always seems to piss me off. Either by taking a nice warm shit on my brand new carpet, or decided to use me as a clawing device.

I'd like to suggest ways to hurt or piss off the little shithead that you can't get rid of, usually cause you're mom thinks it's the nicest fucker alive.

1 -- Kick it Around, you know, when the fucker get's in your way, whether itbe when you're taking a shit and it comes in and watches, or when you'resleeping and it sits on your face. Just put a little force into it and BLAM!The fucker goes flying. It's especially nice to watch a cat go flying on awood floor, with all four spread, doing 360's and crying like a Mexicanwithout his burrito. Kicking him from under (like under the stomach) let'sloose a flying cat, spinning and twirling in the air.

2 -- Tail tricks....This is the fun part...Seeing the cat can't really get toit's tail, you can do shit with it and the cat it defenseless. Try tying thecat's tail to his front paw, cause everyone time it walks, it's tail get'spulled, looks like some diseased person trying to walk. Or even better, get a

nice grab of the tail, and start spinning the cat around using it, the catwill have to take the pain, cause by force of nature, it can't reach it's pawsaround to scratch you since it's spinning so fast it's paws are spread-eaglelike. If you have glue, and the cat's tail is long enough, or maybe just atad shorter, you can glue it's tail to it's nose, which is cool. The cat moveshis head and his ass comes up with it (how'z that for a chain reaction?)Like it'll be walking around town with it's ass all dangling up, all the otherfurry fucks will ram it up, which in turn, will make the cat freak when ittries to sit down (get it?). But that's kinda mean.

3 -- whiskers (heh, heh, heh)....Ok, you know who you are people, you kind thatclips cat's whiskers and laughs like hell. Cat's use whiskers to navigate in the

dark, like when they're entering a tight spot, their whiskers will tell them ifthey're about to run into something (kind of like those cadillacs with thosemetal tubes sticking out the side). So what do you do? You cut the fuckerswhiskers, down to you start getting fur. Then you gotta through the cat in acloset, and open the door, oh, about 4 inches. The cat will naturally befucked and stunned that us humans would do such a thing (it probably isequlivant of a cat cutting off your dick) and he'll start bumping around,wondering what the fuck....So you just sit there and laugh your ass off.The cat might eventually make it's way out of the closet, but maybe you could,hmmm...



4 -- Pillow Case....Well, this is kind of funny...All you do is throw thelittle fuck in a pillow case, and go into an open room (you don't want to beatit to death, well, not yet atleast). And start swinging the fucker around incircles, again and again, the cat will probably be crying for it's life (butdon't give in to it's whining, cause when it get's out, it wants blood) keepswinging it around and around, faster and faster, stop when you're too dizzyto figure out where the cat is, then quickly open the pillow case and let thebastard fall out (it WILL fall, believe me). You got to make sure you can seeit (cause you're gonna be almost as dizzy). The fucker will be sitting there,moving it's head in circles, still thinking its spinning. This is the good part,cause as far as the cat knows, it's totally high on Catnip or something. Youcan do anything, it's up to you.

4 -- Water ...We all know that cats hate water more than dogs, and wouldrather travel in a car then deal with it. But cat's are funny as hell in water.Try filling up a tub, or a sink, or something with water in it that the cat willfit in. Throw the fucker in for a minute or two (unless it's definitely goingto drown, we'll talk about killing them later) and watch it squeal..They actlike water is acid or something and yet they still drink water out of the toiletwhen none is available (these fuckers gotta get their facts straight). Afterthe cat has had enough torture, grab it by the ear, or tail, or get a good grabaround it's head and throw it out (throw it outside you fool). When a cat get'swet (especially a long-haired cat) they look like giant ferrets, really nasty

like (which might persuade you to do something else, like nail it to a 2 by 4and shoot it full of b-b's) but don't hurt it too bad..

5 -- Misc. shit....Stick the cat in the Microwave (no, really) and don't turnit on (yet) just let it sit there, and look through the little see-throughwindow...It should be scared as hell, since it's in a really tight spot, can'tmove much at all...If you really want to screw the fucker, nuke it! Just nukeit for 20 seconds at a time...The cat will start squirming at about 10 seconds(depending on the wattage of the Microwave)...After about 30 seconds, thecat will definitely have radiation poisioning, which will probably kill itwithin a month or less. If you nuke it for a minute, you'll probably kill it,depending on the size of the cat, the microwave cooks inside out, so after aminute, it's intestines and lungs will be a little toasty, maybe killing it, if

not, probably sterilizing it or leaving it a slow and terrible death. Ofcourse, you can go "All-Out" if you REALLY express rage for it, and can nuke itfor 5 minutes...This is NOT for the Squeamish....I DO know someone who did this,and saw it....It was pretty fucking gross, and being the cat hater I am, I stillfelt sorry for it. In 30 seconds, it starts kicking and screaming and freakingout (which brings me to the point, you gotta make sure the door can't beopened, and you gotta make sure you don't want the microwave anymore). In 1minute, it was started to spaz like nothing you've ever seen before, some bloodwas coming from it's mouth due to internal cuts the Nuking did, all types ofseisures and some last moans were following at 2 minutes. At about 2 and ahalf minutes, the cat was still alive, it's pupils were dialated and it wastwitching like someone stuck a Electrolysis gun up it's ass...At 3 minutes, it'salmost dead...The smell of the cat would make any mortician throw up, that's why

I would suggest alot of open windows and doors and some type of gas mask on. Thelast two minutes it the cool part...Now that the fucker is dead (for good reasontoo) it's time to watch the fireworks...I think at around 4 minutes, the catstarted popping, it's eyeballs literally popped out of it's sockets, and theblood started to ooze, not a pretty sight..At about, 4 mins 15 seconds, it'sfur starts to curl (although it was already crispy) and at about 5 minutes, thewhole microwave is one big slaughterhouse. Which brings me to clean up...DON'T!I said earlier, Nuke the cat in a microwave you no longer want to use (not tomention the microwave is probably broken anyway). Just throw the microwave awayand chuckle off a couple laughs...Even take poloraids if you want.



[ ] *Tennis Ball Bomb #21. Gasoline2. Tennis Ball3. Piece of Cloth4. Can of wd-40

First punch a hole in the tennis ball about the size of a nickel. Thensimply pour gasoline into the small hole you have punched into the ball. Theball should be filled almost to the top with gasoline. After you havefinished that small task, roll up the piece of cloth you have so it will fitinto the hole you have made in the ball. Now spray the rolled up cloth withwd-40. Be sure the cloth (when rolled) is about 1.5 feet long so you haveenough time to run once lit. Now stick the cloth into the hole you havepunched into the ball. You now have what should look like an old fashionedbomb. Now all you have to do next is find a good place to light it and youshould be all set. The small explosive could do one of 2 things. It couldexplode (hopefully) or it could put out quite a shower of fire.

[ ] Splatter Bomb1.Small Jar2.Piece of cloth3.Oil

4.Gasoline This small and very simple bomb is the funnest, and most deadly for itssize. Simple take 75% gasoline and 25% oil and mix them together in thesmall jar. Then punch a hole in the lid of the jar (nickel size). Now rollup the cloth and make it like a fuse. Then dip the very tip of the cloth fusein the mixture of oil and gas. Now screw the lid to the jar (with the hole init). Insert the cloth fuse with the small area you dipped in the mixture ontop (so you can light it). Now go out onto the street and light the fuse, andthrow the jar with gas,etc. in the air and run. When the jar hits the streetit will break and splatter gas and oil everywhere making a huge fire. The oilwill stick to anything causing the gas and oil to burn whatever it hits. Evena small drop of the mixture would burn for about 30 seconds or longer. When

the lit fuse makes contact with the mixture watchout![ ] *Gasoline balloon*1.Balloon2.Gasoline3.Small rubber tube4.Ability to syfin5.Sulfer fuse6.Spray bottle

In order to create this you must have to be able to syfin gasoline. Takethe rubber tube and put it in your supply of gasoline. Then syfin some gasthrough the tube. Now quickly! insert the tube into the mouth of the balloon.

If you syfined correctly gas should be pouring into the balloon (making it likea water balloon, but only a gas balloon). Once the balloon is as full as youwant to get it stop the gas flow and tie the balloon. Now tie the sulfer fusearound the balloon (like you would with a string). Then fill your empty spraybottle half full of gas. When done with that, spray the outside of theballoon with gas. Now set the balloon in a safe open area and light the fuse.When you light this it will make the balloon pop, and when it pops it willeither explode or make a hugh wave of gasoline. I have had both happen severaltimes.



[*Peroxyacetone*] Peroxyacetone is extremely flammable and shock sensitive

Materials: 4ml Acetone 4ml 30% Hydrogen Peroxide 4 drops of concentrated Hydrochloric Acid 150mm Test tube

Add 4ml Acetone and 4ml Hydrogen Peroxide to the test tube. Then add 4 dropsconcentrated Hydrochloric Acid. In 10-20 minutes a white solid should begin toappear. If no change is observed, warm the test tube in a water bath at 40Celsius. Allow the reaction to continue for two hours. Swirl the slurry andfilter it. Leave out on filter paper to dry for at least two hours. To ignite,light a candle tied to a meter stick and light it (while staying at least ameter away)

[*Plastic Explosive*]

Ingredients:

-Gasoline - 1 Part

-Oil - 1 Half part -Styrofoam - 1 1) Melt styrofoam. Remember never at any time let the mixture get too hot.2) Let it cool to a thick viscosity.3) Mix 3 Ingredients together in the following order: First add styrofoam, then Oil, then Gas.4) Mix in a deep pot - Keep mixture away from any type of fire! Do this step with extreme caution.5) Let the mixture cool to a little bit warmer than room temperature - Around 88 Degrees Farenheit.6) Mold the mixture how you want. (Different shapes will make it more or less lethal).

Optional: You can add nuts, bolts, and screws while mixing, along withgunpowder, 2 M-80'S, or any other type of explosive to make it the "Equivilantof a Molotov Cocktail. Note: The fragments (nuts, bolt, etc. are deadly. They will penetrate a brickwall when the mixture is detonated.

DETONATION:

1) THE MIXTURE CAN BE WIRED FOR AN ELECTRIC CHARGE TO BE SENT THROUGH IT, IT WILL DETONATE WITHOUT DOUBT. A REGULAR FUSE CAN BE SENT THROUGH ITALSO.

IF THIS METHOD IS USED, SOME SORT OF TIMER IS RECOMMENDED.

[*Plastic Explosive #2*]

1) Mix: 2 Parts Vaseline : 1 Part Gasoline 2) Ignite with an electric charge

[*Plastique Explosive from Aspirin*]



This explosive is a phenol dirivative. It is toxic and explosive made frompicric acid are poisonous if inhaled, ingested, or handled and absorbed throughthe skin. The toxicity of this explosive restrict's its use due to the fact thatover exposure in most cases causes liver and kidney failure and sometimes deathif immediate treatment is not obtained.

This explosive is a cousin to T.N.T. but is more powerful than it's cousin. Itis the first explosive used militarily and was adopted in 1888 as an artilleryshell filler. Originally this explosive was derived from coal tar but thanx tomodern chemistry you can make this explosive easily in approximately threehours from acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin purified).

This procedure involves dissolving the acetylsalicylic acid in warm sulfuricacid and adding sodium or potassium nitrate which nitrates the purified aspirinBand the whole mixture drowned in water and filtered to obtain the finalproduct. This explosive is called trinitrophenol. Care should be taken toensure that this explosive is stored in glass containers. Picric acid will formdangerous salts when allowed to contact all metals exept tin and aluminum. Thesesalts are primary explosive and are super sensitive. They also will cause thedetonation of the picric acid. To make picric acid obtain some aspirin. The cheaper brands work best butbuffered brands should be avoided. Powder these tablets to a fine consistancy.@To extract the acetylsalicylic acid from this powder place this methyl alcohol

and stir vigorously. Not all of the powder will dissolve. Filter this powder outof the alcohol. Again wash this powder that was filtered out of the alcohol withmore alcohol but with a lesser amount than the first extraction. Again filterthe remaining powder out of the alcohol. Combine the now clear alcohol and allowit to evaporate in a pyrex dish. When the alcohol has evaporated there will be asurprising amount of crystals in the bottom of the pyrex dish. Take fourty gramsof these purified acetylsalicylic acid crystals and dissolve them in 150 ml. ofsulfuric acid (98%, specify gravity 1.8) and heat to dissolve all the crystals.This heating can be done in a common electric frying pan with the thermostat seton 150 deg. F. and filled with a good cooking oil. When all the crystals havedissolved in the sulfuric acid take the beaker, that you've done all thisdissolving in (600 ml.), out of the oil bath. This next step will need to bedone with a very good ventilation system (it idea to do any chemistry work such

as the whole procedure and any procedure on this disk with good ventilation oroutside). Slowly start adding 58 g. of sodium nitrate or 77 g. of potassiumnitrate to te acid mixture in the beaker very slowly in small portions withvigorous stirring. A red gas nitrogen trioxide) will be formed and this shouldbe avoided. The mixture is foam up and the addition should be stopped until thefoaming goes down to prevent the overflow of the acid mixture in the beaker.When the potassium nitrate has been added the mixture is allowed to coolsomewhat (30-40 deg. C.). The solution should then be dumped slowly into twiceit's volume of crushed ice and water. The brilliant yellow crystals will formin the water. These should be filtered out and placed in 200 ml. of boilingdistilled water. This water is allowed to cool and then the crystals are then filtered out of the water. These crystals are a very, very pure trinitrophenol.These crystals are then placed in a pyrex dish and places in an oil bath and

heated to 80 deg. C. and held there for 2 hours. This temperature is bestmaintained and checked with a thermometer. The crystals are then powdered insmall quantities to a face powder consistency. These powdered crystals are thenmixedwith 10% by weight wax and 5% vaseline which are heated to melting temperatureand poured @into the crystals. The mixing is best done by kneading togetherwith gloved hands. This explosive should have a useful plsticity range of0-40 deg. C.. The detonation velocity should be around 7000 m/sec.. It is toxicto handle but simply made from common ingredients and is suitable for most demolition work requiring a moderately high detonation velocity. It is very



suitable for shaped charges and some steel cutting charges. It is not as good an explosive as C-4 or other R.D.X. based explosives but it is much easier to make. Again this explosive is very toxic and should be treated with greatcare. AVOID HANDLING BARE-HANDED, BREATHING DUST AND FUMES, AVOID ANYCHANCE OF INGESTION. AFTER UTENSILS ARE USED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF THISEXPLOSIVERETIRE THEM FROM THE KITCHEN AS THE CHANCE OF POISONING IS NOT WORTH THERISK.THIS EXPLOSIVE, IF MANUFACTURED AS ABOVE, AHOULD BE SAFE IN STORAGE BUTWITH ANY HOMEMADE EXPLOSIVE STORAGE OS NOT RECOMENDED AND EXPLOSIVES SHOULD BEMADE UP AS NEEDED.A V O I D CO N T A C T W I T H A L L M E T A L S E X E C E P T T I N [*Plastique Explosive from Bleach*]This explosive is a potassium chlorate explosive. This explosive andexplosives of similar composition were used in World War II as the mainexplosive filler in gernades, land mines, and mortar used by French, German, andother forces involoved in that conflict. These explosives are relatively safe tomanufacture. One should strive to make sure these explosives are free of sulfur,sulfides, and picric acid. The presence of these compounds result in mixturesthat are or can become highly sensitive and possibly decompose explosively while

in storage. The manufacture of this explosive from bleach is given as just anexpediant method. This method of manufacturing chlorate is not economical due tothe amount of energy used to boil the solution and cause the 'dissociation'reaction to take place. This procedure does work and yields a relatively pureand a sulfur/sulfide free product. These explosives are very cap sensitive andrequire only a #3 cap for instigating detonation. To manufacture potassiumchlorate from bleach (5.25% sodium hypochlorite solution) obtain a heat source(hot plate stove etc.) a battery hydrometer, a large pyrex or enameled steelcontainer (to weigh chemicals), and some potassium chloride (sold as saltsubstitute). Take one bleach, place it in the container and begin heating it.While this solution heats, weigh out 63 g. potassium chloride and add this tothe bleach being heated. Bring this solution to a boil and boiled until whenchecked by a hydrometer the reading is 1.3 (if a battery hydrometer is used it

should read full charge). When the reading is 1.3 take the solution and let itcool in the refrigerator until it's between room temperature and 0 deg. C..Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil the solution againuntil it reads 1.3 on the hydrometer and again cool the solution. Filter out thecrystals formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before.Filter and save the crystals. Take these crystals that have been saved and mixthem with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 g. per 100 ml.water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow it to cool. Filter thesolution and save the crystals that form upon cooling. The process ifpurification is called fractional crystalization. These crystals should berelatively pure potassium chlorate. Powder these to the consistency of facepowder (400 mesh) and heat gently to drive off all moisture. Melt five partsvasoline and five parts wax. Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp stove

gasoline) and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium chlorate (the crystals fromthe above operation) in a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassiumchlorate until immediately mixed. Allow all the gasoline to evaporate. Placethis explosive in a cool, dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfide, andphosphorous compounds. This explosive is best molded to the desired shape anddensity (1.3g./cc.) and dipped in wax to water proof. These block type chargesguarantee the highest detonation velocity. This explosive is really not suitedto use in shaped charge applications due to its relatively low detonationvelocity. It is comparable to 40% ammonia dynamite and can be considered thesame for the sake of charge computation. If the potassium chlorate is bought



and not made it is put into the manufacture process in the powdering stagespreceding the addition of the wax/vaseline mixture. This explosive is bristantand powerful. The addition of 2-3% aluminum powder increases its blast effect.Detonation velocity is 3300 m/sec..

[*Plastique Explosives From Swimming Pool Chlorinating Compound* This explosive is a chlorate explosive from bleach. This method of productionof potassium or sodium chlorate is easier and yields a more pure product thandoes the plastique explosive from bleach process. In this reaction the H.T.H.(calcium hypochlorite CaC10) is mixed with water and heated with either sodiumchloride (table salt, rock salt) or potassium chloride (salt substitute). Thelatter of these salts is the salt of choice due to the easy crystalization ofthe potassium chlorate. This mixture will need to be boiled to ensure completereaction of the ingredients. Obtain some H.T.H. swimming pool chlorinationcompound or equivilant (usually 65% calcium hypochlorite). As with the bleachprocess mentioned earlier the reaction described below is also a dissociationreaction. In a large pyrex glass or enamled steel container place 1200g. H.T.H.Band 220g. potassium chloride or 159g. sodium chloride. Add enough boiling waterto dissolve the powder and boil this solution. A chalky substance (calciumchloride) will be formed. When the formation of this chalky substance is nolonger formed the solution is filtered while boiling hot. If potassium chloridewas used potassium chlorate will be formed. This potassium chlorate will dropout or crystalize as the clear liquid left after filtering cools. These

crystals are filtered out when the solution reaches room temperature. If thesodium chloride salt was used this clear filtrate (clear liquid afterfilteration) will need to have all water evaporated. This will leave crystalswhich should be saved. These crystals should be heated in a slightly warm oven in a pyrex dish todrive off all traces of water (40-75 deg. C.). These crystals are ground to avery fine powder (400 mesh). If the sodium chloride salt is used in the initial step the crystalization ismuch more time consuming. The potassium chloride is the salt to use as theresulting product will crystalize out of the solution as it cools. The powderedand completely dry chlorate crystals are kneaded together with vaseline in a

plastic bowl. ALL CHLORATE BASED EXPLOSIVES ARE SENSITIVE TO FRICTION ANDSHOCKAND THESE SHOULD BE AVOIDED. If sodium chloride is used in this explosive itwill have a tendancy to cake and has a slightly lower detonation velocity.This (explosive is composed of the following:

potassium/sodium chlorate 90% vaseline 10%

A The detonation velocity can be raised to a slight extent by the addition of 2-3% aluminum sunstituted for 2-3% of the vaseline. This addition of this aluminum will give the explosive a bright flash if set off at

night which will ruin night vision for a short while. The detonation velocityof this explosive is approximately 3200 m/sec. for the potassium salt and 2900 m/sec. for the sodium salt based explosive.

[*Portable Grenade Launcher*]

If you have a bow, this one is for you. Remove the ferrule from analuminum arrow, and fill the arrow with black powder (I use grade



FFFF, it burns easy)and then glue a shotshell primer into the holeleft where the ferrule went. Next, glue a BB on the primer, and youare ready to go! Make sure no one is nearby.... Little shreds ofaluminum go all over the place!!

[*R.D.X.*]

R.D.X., also called cyclonite, or composition C-1 (when mixed withplasticisers) is one of the most valuable of all military explosives. This isbecause it has more than 150% of the power of T.N.T., and is much easier todetonate. It should not be used alone, since it can be set off by a not-toosevere shock. It is less sensitive than mercury fulminate, or nitroglycerine,but it is still too sensitive to be used alone. R.D.X. can be made by thesurprisingly simple method outlined hereafter. It is much easier to make in thehome than all other high explosives, with the possible exception of ammoniumnitrate.

MATERIALS EQUIPMENT hexamine 500 ml beaker methenamine glass stirring rod fuel tablets (50 g) funnel and filter paper concentrated nitric acid (550 ml) ice bath container distilled water (plastic bucket)

table salt centigrade thermometer ice blue litmus paper ammonium nitrate

1) Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see section 3.13, steps 3-4) and carefully pour 550 ml of concentrated nitric acid into the beaker. 2) When the acid has cooled to below 20 degrees centigrade, add small amounts of the crushed fuel tablets to the beaker. The temperature will rise, and it must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade, or dire consequences could result. Stir the mixture. 3) Drop the temperature below zero degrees centigrade, either by adding more ice

and salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new ice bath. Or, ammonium nitrate could be added to the old ice bath, since it becomes cold when it is put in water. Continue stirring the mixture, keeping the temperature below zero degrees centigrade for at least twenty minutes 4) Pour the mixture into a litre of crushed ice. Shake and stir the mixture, and allow it to melt. Once it has melted, filter out the crystals, and dispose of the corrosive liquid.

5) Place the crystals into one half a litre of boiling distilled water. Filter the crystals, and test them with the blue litmus paper. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the litmus paper remains blue. This will make the crystals more stable and safe.

6) Store the crystals wet until ready for use. Allow them to dry completely using them. R.D.X. is not stable enough to use alone as an explosive. 7) Composition C-1 can be made by mixing 88.3% R.D.X. (by weight) with 11.1% mineral oil, and 0.6% lecithin. Kneed these material together in a plastic bag. This is a good way to desensitize the explosive. 8) H.M.X. is a mixture of T.N.T. and R.D.X.; the ratio is 50/50, by weight. it is not as sensitive, and is almost as powerful as straight R.D.X.



9) By adding ammonium nitrate to the crystals of R.D.X. after step 5, it should be possible to desensitize the R.D.X. and increase its power, since ammonium nitrate is very insensitive and powerful. Soduim or potassium nitrate could also be added; a small quantity is sufficient to stabilize the R.D.X. 10) R.D.X. detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is compressed to a density of 1.55 g/cubic cm.

[*Spontanious Combustion*]Look for powdered aluminum at a good painting supply.

METHOD # 1: Scatter out a few crystals 'of chromic anhydride. Drop on a littleethyl alcohol. It will burst into flame immediately.

METHOD # 2: Mix by weight, four parts ammonium chloride, one part ammoniumnitrate, four parts powered zinc. Pour out a small pile of this and make adepression on top. Put one or two drops of water in the depression.Stay wellback from this.

METHOD # 3: Put one gram of powdered potassium permanganate into a paper cup.Drop two drops of glycerine onto it. After a few seconds it will burst intoflames.

METHOD # 4: Spoon out a small pile of powdered aluminum. Place a small amount ofsodium peroxide on top of this. A (volume the size of a small pea is aboutright. One drop of water will cause this to ignite in a blinding flare.

METHOD # 5: Mix by volume 3 parts concentrated sulfuric acid with 2 partsconcentrated nitric acid. Hold a dropper of turpentine about 2 feet above themixture. When drops strike the acid they will burst into flame.

[ ] *"AFPO"*

NEEDED;

Amononium Hydroxide (again) "Fuel Oil(s)(white gasoline works) Gelitin(no, NOT FLAVORED!)

Mix the AH with the FUEL OIL, until very thoughly mixed in to a thin liquid, then add the GELITIN, yes, this is a gel explosive, until you "feel it's the right thickness for your work, you can get it thick enough to be solid, use waterproof fuses, with a little NI3 at the end to make sure the stuff goes off with a good boom, THIS IS A VERY STABLE EXPLOSIVE, IT IS ALSO 3 TIMES MORE POWERFUL THAN DYNAMITE. A thin wire with high voltage running through it in the gel makes a good detonater too.

Have you ever heard of the millitary high power explosive, NI3?

It's 4 to 6 time MORE POWERFUL than dynamite, and, HERE'S HOW TO MAKE IT! needed:

IODINE CRYSTALS

AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE

Put the AH in a GLASS bowl, and disolve the Iodine in it, in a coupleof minutes, new crystals will form. They are highly volitile, and illeagal

to have,For what ever it's worth.



You should be careful not to get any of the astrolite on you,if it happens though, you should flush the area with water. Astrolite A&G both should be able to be detonated by a #8 blasting cap.

[*Expedient Grenades*]

There are many possibilities in the field of grenade manufacture, but forthe most part, when you're dealing with grenades that must be constructed ofeasily available materials, the quality and the safety of the grenade is reduceddramatically. Here I will deal with this problem, trying to produce areasonable type of grenade that is relatively safe, can be stored andtransported easily, but produces dramatic effects. I strongly suggest that ifyou find it possible, you are far better off getting a REAL grenade than tryingto produce one yourself, but you can be the judge. As always, I want to notethat this is all for educational purposes only, and I do not recommend anyonetrying any of the following for real.

The first thing you need is explosives. If you can't get black powder, orgun powder, or make your own plastic explosives (we know there sure are enoughtext files floating around to explain how to make all of the above!) than you'rereally in a for making a grenade of this type. You'll also need a coffee can, asmaller sized can (probably like an orange juice can, or V8), a coat hanger, anda fuse. As for explosives, mercury fulminate is extremely good for this sort ofthing. You could probably get together a ton of firecrackers and take out the

black powder (if you'r desperate) or get a couple quarter sticks from someone. Theexplosive goes in the juice can. Don't pack it together too tight. Loose blackpowder is better than compressed. This is the main explosive. Cut up the coathanger into little pieces approximately 1/2" long and fill up the coffee canuntil you can put the juice can in and the top of the juice can is level withthe top of the coffee can. If you don't have the time, and need to fill up thespace faster, chuck in a couple small rocks or pieces of glass, and stuff likethat until you have the bottom of the can filled. Now place the juice can inthe coffee can, and center it. Then fill the space around the coffee can withcoat hanger stuff until the juice can is relatively stable. Put a model rocketfuse in the explosive in the juice can. Leave (at least) 3 1/2" to light from.If necessary, secure the juice can or the explosive with some masking tape,

etc... as long as it doesn't interfere with the action of the grenade. Takethe lid of the coffee can and cut a hole so that the fuse is exposed. You nowhave a fragmentation grenade. It might be a good idea to practice with afootball for a while before trying to destroy the neighbor's garage with it.

[*Explosive Pen*]

Materials Needed 1] One Ball Point `Click` pen 2] Gun Powder 3] 8 or 10 match heads 4] 1 Match stick

5] a little sheet of sand paper (1 1/2" X 2")

Procedure 1] Unscrew pen and remove all parts but leave the button in the to in the pen. 2] Stick the match stick in the part of the pen clicker where the other little parts and the ink fill was. 3] Roll sand paper up and put around the match stick that is in the clicker.



4] Put the remaining Match Heads inside the pen, make sure that they are on the inside on the sand paper. 5] Put a small piece of paper or something in the other end of the pen where the ball point comes out. 6] Fill the end with the piece of paper in it with gun powder. The paper is to keep the powder from spilling.

(The Finished pen should look like this:

Small Paper Clog Gun Powder Matches & Sandpaper \ | | \ | | \ _________________|____________________|________ <_______________________________|_______________|=== / Clicker /

Planting The Device ------------------- There are many ways to use this little device. Here are a few of my favorite ways to use this handy little Anti-Personal-Device

In School

1] Replace it with a friends pen, it helps if it is the same color Style. But if you get it there and he/she goes to write, watch the sparks fly! 2] You know how all these poor nigs are always asking you for a pen well this is the way to fix it! just give 'em this little pen and I gurantee they will never ask you for another pen again. 3] Replace the teachers pen with it.

In The Office

No Office experience, unless its the schools office, replace it with the principals or receptionist pens. They'll get a `bang` out of it!

[*Fertilizer Bomb*]

Materials:A bag of fertilizerSome CottonSome Starter Fluid (etherous kind)Some Newspaper

Fold the newspaper until its in sort of a pocket shape, then fill it up withfertilizer (not too much).. Next, put cotton on top of the fertilizer. Then,pour some starter fluid on it (the fertilizer), wrap up the newspaper (you canuse tape). Now this isnt the kind of bomb you leave lying around for a couple

days, as it drys out. When you want to use it, just light the edge of thenewspaper and throw it. Pretty simple, eh?

[*Filler explosive*] 85% sodium chlorate 10% vaseline 5% aluminum powder

[*Fire Bomb*]



Take carbon disulfide and dissolve white phosphorous in it. Put it in astoppered bottle and throw it at something you would like to see on fire.When the cs2 evaporates, it leaves a film of phoshorous on what ever it hits,and it starts a fire with the solvent vapors.

[*Grain-Elevator Explosion*] Want to try your own 'Grain-Elevator explosion'? Get a candle and some flour..Light the candle and put some flour in your hand. Try various ways of gettingthe flour to leave your hand and become dust right over the candle flame. Theenormous surface area allows all the tiny dust particles to burn, which they doat about the same time, combining to form a fireball effect. In grain elevators,much the same thing happens.if you can get your hands on some lycopodium powder.This will work much better, creating huge fireballs that are unexpected.

[*Impact Mixture*]

Materials: 50% red phosphorus 50% sodium chlorate

Unlike potassium chlorate,sodium chlorate won't explode spontaneously when mixed with phosphorus. It has to be hit to be detonated.

[*Incendiary Mixture*]

Materials: 55% aluminum powder (atomized) 45% sodium chlorate 5% sulfur

[*Gelatine Explosive from Anti-Freeze*]This explosive is almost the same as the nitro-gelatin plastique except that itis supple and pliable to -10 to -20 deg. C.. Antifreeze is easier to obtainthan glycerine and is usually cheaper. It needs to be freed of water before the

manufacture and this can be done by treating it with calcium chloride until aspecific gravity of 1.12 @ o deg. C. or 1.11 @ 20 deg. C. is obtained. This canbe done by adding calcium chloride to the antifreeze and checking with ahydrometer and continue to add calcium chloride proper reading is obtained. Theantifreeze is then filtered to remove the calcium chloride from the liquid. Thisexplosive is superior to nitro-gelatin in that it is easier to collidon the IMRsmokeless powder into the explosive and that the 50/50 ether ethyl alcohol canbe done away with. It is superior in that the formation of the collidon is donevery rapidly by the nitroethelene glycol. It's detonation properties arepractically the same as the nitro-gelatine. Like the nitro-gelatine it is highlyflammable and if caught on fire the chances are good that the flame willprogress to detonation. In this explosive as in nitro-gelatine the addition of1% sodium carbonate is a good idea to reduce the chance of recidual acid being

present in the final explosive. The following is a slightly different formulathan nitro-gelatine:

Nitro-glycol 75%Guncotton (IMR) 6%Potassium Nitrate 14%Flour (baking) 5%

In this process the 50/50 step is omitted. Mix the potassium nitrate with the9nitro-glycol. Remember that this nitro-glycol is just as sensitive to shock as



is nitroglycerin. The next step is to mix in the flour and sodium carbonate.=Mix these by kneading with gloved hands until the mixture is uniform. Thiskneading should be done gently and slowly. The mixture should be uniform when<the IMR smokeless powder is added. Again this is kneaded to uniformity. Usethis explosive as soon as possible. If it must be stored, store in a cool, dryBplace (0-10 deg. C.). This explosive should detonate at 7600-7800 m/sec.. Thesetwo explosives are very powerful and should be sensitive to a #6 blasting cap@or equivelent. These explosives are dangerous and should not be made unless themanufacturer has had experience with this type compound. The foolish andignorant may as well forget these explosives as they won't live to get to usethem. Don't get me wrong, these explosives have been manufactured for yearswith an amazing record of safety. Millions of tons of nitroglycerine have beenmade and used to manufacture dynamite and explosives of this nature with veryfew mishaps. Nitroglycerin and nitroglycol will kill and their main victims arethestupid and foolhardy. Before manufacturing these explosives take nitroglycerinand soak into a small piece of filter paper and place it on an anvil. Hit thisdrop with a hammer and don't put any more on the anvil. See what I mean! Thisexplosive compound is not to be taken lightly. If there are any doubts DON'T.

[*Letter Bomb*]Letter bombs are very simple to make, but the difficult part is making sure

it will detonate properly, or that it is not obvious that it is a bomb.About 75% Aluminum powder with 25% Iron power is best. This is a lightversion of Thermite, Since it is in an enclosed space (The envelope, asdescribed below a ways). Mix the above well. The idea is this: Iron can burn,at a very high temperature, but it needs a little help. This is what theAluminum is for. Aluminum burns at a relatively low temperature, so it isused as a catalyst of sorts. Magnesium is used to flash-ignite the Aluminum,which then burns the Iron, at a suitable temperature. Since this is going offin an enclosed space, it will burn much hotter and slower and with more violencethan a normal mix. I advise you play with this for a while, learning yourmixture.

Now for the fun stuff:Get an insulated (padded) envelope, the type that is double layered. Seperatethe layers. In the inner layer goes the wonderful mixture, once you aresatisfied with. Keep this section seperate, but it might be good to top itoff with some Magnesium. The outer layer can be either Magnesium, for a flashbomb, or possibly a material of your own choice. Now for the difficult part! The fuse... We can make a fuse from another set ofchemicals: Iodine crystals, and Ammonium Hydroxide, in liquid form. Mix thesetogether,in about and equal amount, but you might want to use a heavy amount ofiodine if pressed for time. These form a new crystalline structure, about aninch long. These are highly volatile, and i advise keeping them protected.They have about the impact power of an M-100 for a teaspoon. I put these in a

protective card-board lining, and put them at the top of the envelope. Rig thisso it puts pressure on it.

[*Match Explosive*] The word "safety" in safety matches is misleading. The chemical on the heads ofsafety matches is a powerful explosive. It is similar to black powder but has alower ignition temperature (more sensative to heat) and unlike black powder iseasily detonated by impact. This feature moves it up into the high explosivesclass. To test this, lay a paper safety match (on a hard flat surface and hitthe head sharply with a hammer. What do you !know! It goes bang! To collect a



'quantity of this explosive, it is best to use wooden safety matches. Buyseveral cartons. They're cheap. Note that these should be safety matches,(not the strike anywhere kind. Pinch the head near the bottom with a pair ofwire cutters to break it up; then use the edges of the cutters to scrape off&the loose material. It gets easy with practice. You can do this while watchingTV and collect enough for a bomb without dieing of boredom. Once you have a goodbatch of it, you can load it into a pipe instead of black powder. Be careful notto get any in the threads, and wipe off any that gets on the end of the pipe.Never try to use this stuff for rocket fuel. A science teacher was killed thatway. Just for fun while I'm on the subject of matches, did you know that youcan strike a safety match on a window pane? Hold a paper match between yourthumb and first finger. With your second (finger, press the head firmly againsta large window. Very quickly, rub the match down the pane about 2 feet whilemaintaining the pressure. The friction will generate enough heat to light thematch. Another fun trick is the match rocket. Tightly wrap the top half of apaper match with foil. Set it in the top of a pop bottle at a 45 degree angle.Hold a lighted match under the head until it ignites. If you got it right, thematch will zip up and hit the ceiling. I just remembered the match guns I usedto make when I was a kid. These are made from a bicycle spoke. At one end ofthe spoke is a piece that screws off. Take it off and screw it on backwards.You now have a piece of stiff wire with a small hollow tube on one end. Pack thematerial from a couple of wooden safety matches into the tube. Force the stemof a match into the hole. It sould fit very tightly. Hold a lighted match underthe tube until it gets hot enough to ignite the powder. It goes off with a bang.

[*Nitrogen Trichloride*]

Nitrogen trichloride, also known as chloride of azode, is an oily yellowliquid. It explodes violently when it is heated above 60 degrees celsius, orwhen it comes in contact with an open flame or spark. It is fairly simple toproduce. 1) In a beaker, dissolve about 5 teaspoons of ammonium nitrate in water. Do not put so much ammonium nitrate into the solution that some of it remains undissolved in the bottom of the beaker. 2) Collect a quantity of chlorine gas in a second beaker by mixing hydrochloric

acid with potassium permanganate in a large flask with a stopper and glass3) Place the beaker containing the chlorine gas upside down on top of the beaker containing the ammonium nitrate solution, and tape the beakers together. Gently heat the bottom beaker. When this is done, oily yellow droplets will begin to form on the surface of the solution, and sink down to the bottom. At this time, remove the heat source immediately.

Alternately, the chlorine can be bubbled through the ammonium nitrate solution, rather than collecting the gas in a beaker, but this requires timing and a stand to hold the beaker and test tube.

The chlorine gas can also be mixed with anhydrous ammonia gas, by gently

heating a flask filled with clear household ammonia. Place the glass tubes from the chlorine-generating flask and the tube from the ammonia-generating flask in another flask that contains water.

4) Collect the yellow droplets with an eyedropper, and use them immediately, since nitrogen trichloride decomposes in 24 hours.

[*Nitrostarch Explosives*]

Nitrostarch explosives are simple to make, and are fairly powerful. All



that need be done is treat various starches with a mixture of concentrated nitricand sulfuric acids. 10 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid is added to 10 ml ofconcentrated nitric acid. To this mixture is added 0.5 grams of starch. Coldwater is added, and the apparently unchanged nitrostarch is filtered out.Nitrostarch explosives are of slightly lower power than T.N.T., but they aremore readily detonated.

[ ] *GELLED FLAME FUELS*

Gelled or paste type fuels are often preferable to raw gasolinefor use in incendiary devices such as fire bottles. This type fuel adheresmore readily to the target and produces greater heat concentration. Several methods are shown for gelling gasoline using commonlyavailable materials. The methods are divided into the following categoriesbased on the major ingredient:

1. Lye Systems 2. Lye-Alcohol Systems 3. Soap-Alcohol Systems 4. Egg White Systems 6. Wax Systems

Lye Systems

Lye (also know as caustic soda or Sodium Hydroxide) can be used incombination with powdered rosin or castor oil to gel gasoline for use as aflame fuel which will adhere to target surfaces.

MATERIALS REQUIRED:

Parts by Volume Ingredient How Used Common Source--------------- ---------- -------- -------------60 Gasoline Motor Fuel Gas station or motor vehicle2 (flake) or Lye Drain cleaner, Food store or Drug store

1 (powder) making of soap15 Rosin Manufactoring Paint store, chemical supply Paint & Varnish house or Castor Oil Medicine Food and Drug stores

PROCEDURE _____________________________________________________________________________ _

|CAUTION: Make sure that there are no open flames in the area when mixing the||flame fuel. NO SMOKING! ||----------------------------------------------------------------------------|1. Pour gasoline into jar, bottle or other container. (DO NOT USE AN ALUMINUM

CONTAINER.)2. IF rosin is in cake form, crush into small pieces.

3. Add rosin or castor oil to the gasoline and stir for about five minutes tomix thoroughly.

4. In a second container (NOT ALUMINUM) add lye to an equal volume of waterslowly with stirring.

_____________________________________________________________________________



_ |CAUTION: Lye solution can burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled,||wash away immediately with large quantities of water. ||----------------------------------------------------------------------------|

5. Add lye solution to the gasoline mix and stir until mixture thickens (aboutone minute).

NOTE: The sample willeventually thicken to a very firm paste. This can bethinned, if desired, by stirring in additional gasoline.

Lye-Alcohol Systems

Lye (also know as caustic soda or Sodium Hydroxide) can be used incombination with alcohol and any of several fats to gel gasoline for use as aflame fuel.

MATERIALS REQUIRED:

Parts by Volume Ingredient How Used Common Source--------------- ---------- -------- -------------60 Gasoline Motor Fuel Gas station or motor vehicle

2 (flake) or Lye Drain cleaner, Food store or Drug store1 (powder) making of soap

3 Ethyl Alcohol Whiskey Liquor store Medicine Drug storeNOTE: Methyl (wood) alcohol or isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol can besubstituted for ethyl alcohol, but their use produces softer gels.

14 Tallow Food Fats rendered by cooking the Making of soap meat or suet of animals.

NOTE: The following can be substituted for the tallow:

(a) Wool grease (Lanolin) (very good) -- Fat extracted from sheep wool (b) Castor Oil (good) (c) Any vegetable oil (corn, cottenseed, peanut, linseed, etc.) (d) Any fish oil (e) Butter or oleo margarine

It is necessary when using substitutes (c) to (e) to double the given amountof fat and of lye for satistfactory bodying.

PROCEDURE---------

_____________________________________________________________________________

_ |CAUTION: Make sure that there are no open flames in the area when mixing the||flame fuel. NO SMOKING! ||----------------------------------------------------------------------------|

1. Pour gasoline into jar, bottle or other container. (DO NOT USE AN ALUMINUMCONTAINER.)

2. Add tallow (or substitute) to the gasoline and stir for about 1/2 minute todissolve fat.



3. Add alcohol to the gasoline mixture. mix thoroughly.4. In a separate container (NOT ALUMINUM) slowly add lye to an equal volume ofwater. Mixture should be stirred constantly while adding lye.

_____________________________________________________________________________ _

|CAUTION: Lye solution can burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled,||wash away immediately with large quantities of water. ||----------------------------------------------------------------------------|

5. Add lye solution to the gasoline mixture and stir occasionally untilthickened (about 1/2 hour)

NOTE: The sample willeventually (1 to 2 days) thicken to a very firm paste.This can be thinned, if desired, by stirring in additional gasoline.

Soap-Alcohol System

Common household soap can be used in combination with alcohol to gelgasoline for use as a flame fuel which will adhere to target surfaces.

MATERIALS REQUIRED:------------------

Parts by Volume Ingredient How Used Common Source--------------- ---------- -------- -------------36 Gasoline Motor Fuel Gas station or motor vehicle1 Ethyl Alcohol Whiskey Liquor store Medicine Drug storeNOTE: Methyl (wood) alcohol or isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol can be substitutedfor ethyl alcohol.20 (powdered) or Laundry soap Washing clothes Stores 28 (flake)

NOTE: Unless the word "soap" actually appears somewhere on the container orwrapper, a washing compound is probably a detergent. THESE CAN NOT BE USED.

PROCEDURE---------

_____________________________________________________________________________ _

|CAUTION: Make sure that there are no open flames in the area when mixing the||flame fuel. NO SMOKING! ||----------------------------------------------------------------------------|

1. If bar soap is used, carve into thin flakes using a knife.

2. Pour Alcohol and gasoline into a jar, bottle or other container and mixthoroughly.3. Add soap powder or flakes to gasoline-alcohol mix and stir occasionallyuntil thickened (about 15 minutes).

Egg System



The white of any bird egg can be used to gel gasoline for use as a flame fuel.

MATERIALS REQUIRED:------------------

Parts by Volume Ingredient How Used Common Source--------------- ---------- -------- -------------85 Gasoline Motor Fuel Gas station or motor vehicle14 Egg Whites Food Food store, farms

Any one of the following1 Table Salt Food, industrial Sea Water, Natural brine, processes Food stores3 Ground Coffee Food Food store3 Dried Tea Food Food store Leaves3 Cocoa Food Food store2 Sugar Food Food store1 Saltpeter Pyrotechnics Drug store (Niter) Explosives chemical supply store (Potassium Matches Nitrate) Medicine1 Epsom salts Medicine Drug store, food store industrial

processes2 Washing soda Washing cleaner Food store (Sal soda) Medicine Drug store Photography Photo supply store1 1/2 Baking soda Baking Food store Manufactoring: Drug store Beverages, Mineral waters, and Medicine1 1/2 Aspirin Medicine Drug store Food store

PROCEDURE

--------- _____________________________________________________________________________ _

|CAUTION: Make sure that there are no open flames in the area when mixing the||flame fuel. NO SMOKING! ||----------------------------------------------------------------------------|

1. Separate egg white from yolk. This can be done by breaking the egg into adish and carefully removing the yolk with a spoon.

_____________________________________________________________________________ _

|NOTE: DO NOT GET THE YELLOW EGG YOLK MIXED INTO THE EGG WHITE. If egg yolk |

|gets into the egg white, discard the egg. ||----------------------------------------------------------------------------|

2. Pour egg white into a jar, bottle, or other container and add gasoline.3. Add the salt (or other additive) to the mixture and stir occasionally untilgel forms (about 5 to 10 minutes).

NOTE: A thicker flame fuel can be obtained by putting the capped jar in hot(65 C) water for about 1/2 hour and then letting them cool to room temperature.(DO NOT HEAT THE GELLED FUEL CONTAINING COFFEE).



Wax System

Any of several common waxes can be used to gel gasoline for use as alame fuel.

MATERIALS REQUIRED:

Parts by Volume Ingredient How Used Common Source--------------- ---------- -------- -------------80 Gasoline Motor Fuel Gas station or motor vehicle20 Wax Leather polish, Food store, drug store, (Ozocerite, sealing wax, department store Mineral wax, candles, fossil wax, waxed paper, ceresin wax furniture & beeswax) floor waxes, lithographing.

PROCEDURE

1. Melt the wax and pour into jar or bottle which has been placed in a hotwater bath.2. Add gasoline to the bottle.3. When wax has completely dissolved in the gasoline, allow the water bath tocool slowly to room temperature.

NOTE: If a gel does not form, add additional wax (up to 40% by volume) andrepeat the above steps. If no gel forms with 40% wax, make a Lye solution bydissolving a small amount of Lye (Sodium Hydroxide) in an equal amount ofwater. Add this solution (1/2% by volume) to the gasoline wax mix and shakebottle until a gel forms.

[ ] *Popping Combination Locks* Ever wish you could find out just what someone is hiding in thatlocker, or ever have some dumb, ignorant, brain dead, mother fucking, sonof a bitch, cocksucking, bedwetting, jock change your lock on your locker?Here's one of those well kept secrets from the college dorms. How to openalmost any black dial, master combination lock. Heaven forbid anyone findout that Master has made a big bo-bo, and thier prize product has anincredible flaw. For starters, let it be known that this technique has only beenfound to work on master combination locks with black dials. Master lockswith red dials, and a couple other makes that look the same won't work withthis algorithym. But, that's not to say that other types of locks can't be

opened with a set algorithym, they just haven't been figured out yet. OK! You're in a locker room. No one's there. You think.."hmm,I sure could use a walkman". You breeze over to any locker (or one you knowthere's a walkman in) a slow turn here, a quick turn here, a real slow turnwith a few tugs on the lock, and "chunk" it pops open. Sounds like ecstasyeh? Well it is.

Step one: Find the first number

The U bolt in the lock can and will move up and down minutely. If it



doesn't even budge, then find a different lock. If you pull down on thelock, you will notice that the dial can't be moved. This is because thereare about 36 "pits" and "ridges" inside the lock. Pull down hard on the lock.If you can wiggle the dial back and forth (just a little) then you are ina pit. If it doesn't move then you are on a ridge. If on a ridge, then letup on the lock just a tad (slowly) while trying to turn the dial. If you getit right, the bolt will slide out of the lock a little and you'll sink into apit. Now you can wiggle the dial back and forth. When wiggling the dial, thethings that keep you from rotating the dial any further are the ridgesadjacent to pit. All that aside, let's find the first number. I've got mylock right here. Rotate the dial clockwise briskly a few turns to reset the 3"tumblers" inside. Pull down on the lock and try to get it in a pit. Now, allthe ridges are roughly about the same height except for the ridge that marksthe first number of the combination. While pulling down on the lock, grab theknob on the dial and try to turn it clockwise. Of course it's not going toturn because you're in a pit, and you're pulling down on the lock. Let upslowly (very slowly as not to slip) while trying to turn the dial. If you'redoing it right, the bolt will retract into the lock a little as you movefrom the pit to the top of the ridge. When you feel you are at the top ofthe ridge, start pulling down hard on the lock again. The bolt should comeout of the lock a little and you'll be in the pit to the left of the pityou were just in. Wow, and that's not even what you're supposed to do. Whatyou need to do is, when you are at the top of the ridge, try to hold the lock

so instead of falling in a pit, you can turn the dial where you are justgliding over the ridges. Turn it slowly, and when when you pass over theridge you are looking for, you will feel a clank, or you will feel a smallbumb as you hit the side of the ridge. If you have turned the dial a fullturn and have felt nothing then you aren't pulling down on the lock enough.

Try it till you find. It is there somewhere. Now when you feel the bump, takethe number that the little red arrow is pointing to and add five to thatnumber, and that is the first number of the combination. YEAAAAAAAA!

Step two: Finding the second number

Now that you have the first number (hopefully) turn the dial briskly

a few times to reset the tumblers again, and stop at the first number ofthe combination. Because you always have to turn the dial past the firstnumber before you turn it to the second number, turn the dial counterclockwise and stop at the first number of the combination again (make sureit's only one turn!). Find the first pit either on the number you just turnedto or just to the right of it. When you are in the pit, wiggle the dial. Thetrick here is to find the pit that let's you wiggle the dial the least. Hencethe 'stiffest' pit. If you think that that pit is too loose. Let up on thelock a little and let it fall in the pit to the right. (turning the dialcounter-clockwise) If that pit is too loose then go on to the next on. Thisis the hardest part and takes a lot of practice. But when you find the rightpit it will fell.....hmmm....tight. It's hard to explain but you should knowit when you feel it. The number that the little arrow is pointing to is

the second number! You're almost there. Combo Number 3!

Let up on the lock a little and try to get over the ridge to the leftof the second number. When you get over it. Pull down hard. If the lockdoesn't pop open, then go on to the next ridge. IF you got the first twonumbers right, then it should eventually pop open. If you have gone aroundthe dial a full turn and it still hasn't opened, then start ALL over becauseyou got one of the first two numbers wrong.



Don't get discouraged, it can be done! With a little practice youwill be able to open most locks in under a minute. Some locks are hard to'feel' and take a little longer. Ok I admit, there have been some locks I'vetried that are almost impossible. The best place to practice is of coursein a locker room. If you can't get the first one open, go on to the next.You'll eventually get one. Happy treasure hunting!

[ ] *Pastic Explosive Filler*

A plastic explosive filler can be made from potassium chlorate andpetroleum jelly. This explosive can be detonated withcommercial #8 or anymilitary blasting cap.

MaterialRequired How Used----------------- --------Potassiumchlorate Medicine Manufacture of matches

PetroleumJelly Medicine Lubricant

Stirringutensil

WidebowlProcedure---------1.Spread potassium chlorate crystals thinly on a hard surface and pulverizethem with a hard object. Crush into a fine powder until it looks like wheatflour.

2.Place 9 parts powdered potassium chlorate and 1 part petroleum jelly in awide bowl or similar container. Mix ingredients with hands(knead) until auniform paste is obtained.

3.Store explosive in a waterproof container until ready for use.

This simple procedure for plastic explosive works. A slight difficultylies in initiating the explosion. This explosive requires significantactivation energy.

[ ] *WHERE to get WEOPONS*

INTRODUCTION:

This is a list I compiled of some of the best weopons I've seen, and whereto get them. There are weopons for almost every occastion.

LISTING:WEOPON DESCRIPTION PRICE LOC--------------|---------------------------------------------------|-------|---Sword |Nice! 440 steel w/ C56 hardness! Sharp as hell! |109.00 |CO1Throwing Stars|Cheapest and best I've seen. Great selection |Varies |CO2Crossbow |Nice Pistol crossbow... Pretty powerful. | 49.99 |CO3Triple Threat |Cheap set of 3 throwing knifes, good for learning. | 8.99 |CO3Silver Arrow |The best throwing knife I've seen or used. | 5.95 |CO2Wildcat |Nice boot knife, has nice non-slip handle. | 19.99 |CO3



MX-5 Gun |Awesome Stealth weopon! On sale now but will end! | 25.00 |CO3MX-7 Rifle |Same as above except bigger and more powerful. | 59.99 |CO3British Knife |A great dagger! The British Commando Knife. | 13.99 |CO3Stun Gun |50,000 Volt. | 34.99 |CO3Tiger Knife |Nice knife with finger holes. 8 1/2 in. overall. | 7.99 |CO3Dermo-Flage |Great Camoflage, like nothing you've seen before...| 9.99 |CO3Speedchuck |A good pair of Nunchaku. Ball bering swivel. | 8.95 |CO2Tabi |A pair of stealth shoes w/ split toe & rubber sole | 19.95 |CO2Tabi Socks |A must, socks with split toe for tabi's | 1.95 |CO2Octagon Sai |My personal favorite weopon. 21 1/2 inches, Steel.| 22.95 |CO2Bakahatsugama |Type of Kama with 36" weighted chain hidden inside | 25.95 |CO4Grappling Hook|Nice folding black, with 33' of black nilon rope | 19.95 |CO2Tonfa |Good hardwood tonfas. 20" | 9.95 |CO2Manriki |Black chain with two heavy weighted ends | 8.95 |CO5Hand Claws |Great for climbing, fighting, and blocking. | 11.95 |CO4Foot Claws |Same as above except for your feet. | 9.95 |CO4Koga Outfit |About the best 'Ninja' outfit you can get! | 59.95 |CO6Lockgun |Needs picks to operate but fast and easy. | 59.95 |CO6Wafer Pick Set|For use with wafer locks. Comes with 2 base keys | 29.95 |CO6Lock Pick Set |A good set of all-around picks for every occasion | 24.95 |CO6Pick Manual |A must for beginners to learn how to open doors | 8.95 |CO6Throwing Darts|Not like normal darts, these are great conceiled | 1.50 |CO7Caltrops |No matter which way you drop'em, they always point | 3.95 |CO8Super-Star |440 Steel w/ C50-55 Rating! Point Ground 4 times! | 5.95 |CO8

--------------|---------------------------------------------------|-------|--- COMPANIES

CO1 - Dolan's Sports - 1-201-938-6656 CO2 - Asian World of Martial Arts - 1-800-345-AWMA CO3 - The Sportsman's Guide - 1-800-888-3006 CO4 - Musashi Matial Arts - 1-714-557-4272 CO5 - Kam Industries - 1-201-265-4847 CO6 - Kuma Design - 1-213-732-7810 CO7 - Dragon Supply House - 1-804-973-7858 CO8 - I&I Sports Supply - 1-213-732-7212

[ ] *Where to Buy Fireworks*

Included in this file is a list of fireworks suppliers from aroundthe U.S. I have tried to include all necessary information to receive yourorder with almost 100% success. In most of the cases it necessaryto send away for a catalog before you can order (I have included the priceof the catalog [if any]). Shipment:it is advisable not to order between the months of April-August.It is during these months that UPS hires postal inspecters who willconfiscate your order. Some companys will not ship to California however,most only say this to avoid legal problems. Your order usually arives inabout two weeks depending on where the company is located. If you use

check an order will take up to four weeks because of check verfication. ___________________________________________________________________________

<*> represents no shipping to California

Eagle Fireworks Mountain States Novelty P.O. Box 800 P.O. Box 90007 Clackamas, OR 97015 Casper, WY 82609 1-503-657-8138 #-Unkown Catalog: $1.00 Catalog: $1.00



Ace Fireworks North Central Industries Inc.P.O. Box 221 DEPT. F P.O. Box 2623Conneaut, OH 44030 Muncie,IN 47302 #-Unknown 317-284-7122Catalog: $1.00 Catalog: $1.00

Great Lakes Fireworks CO. Sparks Fireworks P.O. Box 5324 8689 Lake Rd. Cleveland, OH 44101 Seville,OH 44273 #-Unknown #-Unknown Catalog: $1.00 Catalog: $2.00

B.J. Alan Co. Fireworks Friendly Fireworks 3800-W Southern Blvd. 1377 "K" St. N.W. Youngstown,Oh 44507 Suite 803 1-800-321-9071 Washington, D.C. 20005 Catalog: $2.00 #-Unknown Catalog/Sample Pak: $2.00

Tall Paul Inc. Spartan Fireworks 402(HP) Washington P.O. Box 792(AH) Chillicothe, MO 64601 Tiffon, OH 44883 #-Unknown 1-800-821-2483

Catalog: <Free> 7901 Catalog: $0.50

Neptune Fireworks Co. Inc. Blue Angel Company Inc.* P.O. Box 398 P.O. Box 26, 12900 1320 Stirling Rd. #B Columbiana-Canfield Rd. Dania, Florida 33004 Columbiana, OH 44408 1-305-920-6771 1-800-321-9071 1-800-835-5236 Catalog: $2.00 Catalog: $2.00

Fireworks Unlimited* China Importers Wholesalers 8550 Route 224 P.O. Box 347212

Deerfield, OH 44411 Parma, OH 44134 1-800-321-2400 #-Unknown Catalog: $2.00 Catalog: $1.00

Pyro Sonic Devices Corporation A&W Sales* P.O. Box 711 P.O. Box 1-G Grand Haven, Michigan 49417 Muncy, PA 17756 616-842-9226 #-Unknown Catalog: $1.00 Catalog: $2.00

__________________________________________________________________________ For more information write to.. Pyrotechnics Box 230 A: RFD #1

Mystic, CT 06355 $3.50 for "Where to buy Pyrotechnics" __________________________________________________________________________

Make your own Fireworks

Norstarr P.O. 5585 Pocatello, ID 83202

___________________________________________________________________________



****************************************************************************** ]- Semi-Auto To Full Auto Weapons Conversion -[ *

* ******************************************************************************

Disclaimer: The author of this file takes no responsibility for illegal useof the information herein, nor does he take responsibility if he/she who isusing the file fucks up and ends up dead, maimed, injured, or arrested.

Hi gun lovers! Heres a nice little instructional file to help all you wouldbe machine gun enthusists out there to get your hands on a nice fully automaticweapon for home defense, hunting, etc.

Ok, down to buisness, heres what you'll need:1- Semi-auto gun (most preferably a semi-auto version of a submachinegun, the

Mac-10 is ideal and the instructions are based on that model, you may have to experiment with other guns...)

1- Set of tools that you use to completely strip your weapon (usually just a few screwdrivers)

1- Hacksaw 1- Electric grinder or hand metal files (OPTIONAL)

1- Power Drill1- Gun bluing kit (OPTIONAL)1- Diagram (bluprint) of the gun internal workings (optional but helps alot for

you dudes who dont know a disconnector from a trigger sear)

Ok, now to the fun shit. Strip the weapon apart and get the lower receiver (the piece with the trigger and shit attached). Method 1 to make the gun full-auto is modifying the trip. First, identify which part is the trip. If your looking at the top of the gun, with the rear of the gun pointed toward you, the trip is the piece sticking up from around the first cross bar. If its taken out its shaped like this:

*

##### %%%%############ %%%%%%################ #%%%%%

############## ### ###%%% *############## #########

############### ######################### ################# ###################### ##################

### ################# ### #############

#####

(sORRY FOR THE CRUDENESS OF THE DIAGRAM, THERE AINT A HELL OF ALOT YOU CANDOWITH ascii GRAPHICS) nOW YOU HAVE TO CUT OR GRIND AWAY ABOUT HALF THEUPPERCONTACT LOBE OF THE TRIP. tHE UPPER CONTACT LOBE IS THE THINNER BIT OF ITSTICKING UP THAT CONTACTS THE UPPER RECEIVER (THE PART DEPICTED BY THE %SYMBOLON MY SHITTY DIAGRAM). cUT AT AN ANGLE PARALLEL TO THE LOWER EDGE OF THELOBE(CONNECT THE DOTS FROM THE ASTERIXES i PUT ON THE PICTURE AND CUT ON THE



BAR.. EXPERIMENT!2) fOR LONGER WEAPON LIFE, FINISH THE EXPOSED EDGES LEFT BY CUTTING,

GRINDING, DRILLING ETC. WITH GUN BLUING. tHIS PREVENTS RUSTING AND CORROSION. 3) iF YOU PLAN ON BULLSHITTING A COP THAT CATCHES YOU (i DON'T ENVY YOU)don't FINISH THE WEAPON WITH BLUING. tHE GUN MAY HAVE BROKE, BUT UZIS DON'TCOAT THEMSELVES WITH PROTECTIVE FINISH....

4) gETTING (OR FINDING OUT WHERE YOU CAN GET) SPARE PIECES FOR THE GUN IN CASE YOU SCREW UP AND/OR WANT TO MAKE YOUR GUN LEGAL AGAIN SOMETIMESIS A VERY GOOD IDEA. 5) hAVE FUN!!!

[ ] * How to make a "Shotgun grenade" *

The stuff that you need is this...

1. Used Shotgun shell...most anygauge....but 12 gauge is better....2. Some gunpowder...3. A fuse....Water proof fuses are better...4. Some Elemers glue (Note: Use the stuff that dries clear...)

Ok after you have gotten all of that stuff you are ready to make one!First step...Push the primer out with a 2 point screwdriver...(Phil. Head)then throw the primer away and put the fuse through the hole...put some glue inthe hole to hold the fuse...let glue dry.....

Next step...pour gunpowder into the empty shell....

next step...pour glue into the rest of the last part of the shell...let gluedry....then....**BOOM** Enjoy!

Note: These bombs are very dangerous and could easily kill you...just watchyourself..also to make them more deadly...get some tape and some nails and take

the nails to the sides of the shell...and run like hell! if this thing goesoff....one of those nails could easily go through you.....Enjoy!

[ ] *How to make an "Apple bomb"*

Well this bomb is *Extreamly* dangerous we suggest you use a long fuse...You will have fun with this one...... this one could easily destroy a car...so watch out....

Supplies....

1. Applesause jar...

2. Gun powder....3. REALLY long fuse...4. Nails for Anti-personel use....

Get a Apple sause jar and fill it with gun powder..... Put a hole in the top ofthe cap.....Put the fuse through the cap and put a drop of glue so to make itstay...if you want to waste a ton of shit by schrapnel then tape nalis to theside of the GLASS jar....If explosion dont get them the glass will...If theglass dont get them the NAILS will.........I really suggest you use a longfuse..(Water proof) and run like hell...becuase I know what these babys can do!



Drop one in a pond and run and after it explodes go back and collect the deadfish...Well enjoy this one!

[ ] *CARBIDE BOMB*

OBTAIN SOME CALCIUM CARBIDE. THIS IS THE STUFF THAT IS USED IN CARBIDELAMPSAND CAN BE FOUND AT NEARLY ANY HARDWARE STORE. TAKE A FEW PIECES OF THISSTUFF(IT LOOKS LIKE GRAVEL) AND PUT IT IN A GLASS JAR WITH SOME WATER. PUT A LIDON TIGHTLY. THE CARBIDE WILL REACT WITH THE WATER TO PRODUCE ACEDYLENECARBONATE WHICH IS SIMILAR TO THE GAS USED IN CUTTING TORCHES. EVENTUALLYTHEGLASS WITH EXPLODE FROM INTERNAL PRESSURE. IF YOU LEAVE A BURNING RAGNEARBY,YOU WILL GET A NICE FIREBALL!

[ ] *AUTO EXHAUST FLAME THROWER*

FOR THIS ONE, ALL YOU NEED IS A CAR, A SPARK PLUG, SOME IGNITION WIRE AND ASWITCH. INSTALL THE SPARK PLUG INTO THE LAST FOUR OR FIVE INCHES OF THETAILPIPE BY DRILLING A HOLE THAT THE PLUG CAN SCREW INTO EASILY. I

RECCOMENDINSTALLING THE SWITCH IN THE GLOVE-COMPARTMENT, WAY OUT OF REACH, BUT ITISNOT NECCESARY. ATTACH THE WIRE TO ONE SIDE OF THE SWITCH AND TO THE SPARKPLUG.THE OTHER SIDE OF THE SWITCH IS ATTACHED TO THE POSITIVE TERMINAL ON THEBATTERY.WITH THE CAR RUNNING, SIMPLY HIT THE SWITCH AND WATCH THE FLAMES FLY!!!

NOTE:BE CAREFUL THAT NO ONE IS BEHIND YOU. I HAVE SEEN SOME OF THESE FLAMES GO20FEET!!!

[ ] * Gerbil Feed Bomb*

The infamous... GERBIL FEED BOMB Striking fear into the hearts of model citizens everywhere...

Grudge against society? Seeking mass destruction & bloodshed? Look nofurther... Follow these simple directions for nihilism absolute...

1. Get some Gerbil Feed, or some other type of small rodent food, available at most any pet store.

2. Mash up the food pellets into a fine powder (about the consistancy ofbeach sand). The best way to do this is to put the pellets in a bag, and then beat the hell out of those bitches (pretend like they're Nancy Reagan for more fun!) with a hammer. If you live near a major highway, you can just scatter them around, and then come by later with a shovel.3. Put this powder into a jar (Jiff Peanut Butter jars work best, but Peter Pan will do just fine). Get some model glue, the kind in tubes, and squirt out a bunch of it into your hand. Spread it out evenly over all your fingers, and then stick your hands into the jar. Move your hands around

a lot in the jar so that the glue is well mixed with the powder.



Go into a spasm, this should shake all the glue off your hands.4. Fill the rest of the jar up with gasoline(available at most any gas station.)5. Put a long fuse into it. If you're brave (and a bit stupid), you can just drop a match into it.6. Light the fuse if you put one in. If you dropped a match into it, then go to the nearest phone, dial "911" and tell the nice people that you have a large number of glass shards embedded in your lower body. An ambulance should be there soon.7. If you do not have glass shards in your body yet, just run VERY, VERY fast, scream "incoming!" at the top of your lungs, and then "hit the dirt!" This should attract all the neighbor's attention, so they too will get to witness this spectacular event.8. There! You've done it! When the police car comes to your house, tell the nice police officers that a K.G.B. agent leaped out of a tree, and threw a hand grenade at you. Of course they will be kind and understanding being their job to "protect and serve." The police are your friends!9. Repeat for everything you want to slice, dice, chop, or mutilate. Or just plain destroy, it doesn't really matter. Be sure to have a spare change of clothes handy...

[ ] PYRODEX Pyrodex is a synthetic powder that is used like black powder. It comesin the same grades, but it is more expensive per pound. However, a one pound

container of pyrodex contains more material by volume than a pound of blackpowder. It is much easier to crush to a very fine powder than black powder, andit is considerably safer and more reliable. This is because it willnot be set off by static electricity, as black can be, and it is less inclinedto absorb moisture. It costs about $10.00 per pound. It can be crushed in thesame manner as black powder, or it can be dissolved in boiling water and dried.

2.04 RIFLE/SHOTGUN POWDER

Rifle powder and shotgun powder are really the same from a practiclestandpoint. They are both nitrocellulose based propellants. They will bereferred to as gunpowder in all future references. Gunpowder is made by the

action of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acid upon cotton. This material isthen dissolved by solvents and then reformed in the desired grain size. Whendealing with gunpowder, the grain size is not nearly as important as that ofblack powder. Both large and small grained gunpowder burn fairly slowlycompared to black powder when unconfined, but when it is confined, gunpowderburns both hotter and with more gaseous expansion, producing more pressure.Therefore, the grinding process that is often necessary for other propellantsis not necessary for gunpowder. Gunpowder costs about $9.00 per pound. Anyidiot can buy it, since there are no restrictions on rifles or shotguns in theU.S.

2.05 FLASH POWDER

Flash powder is a mixture of powdered zirconium metal and variousoxidizers. It is extremely sensitive to heat or sparks, and should be treatedwith more care than black powder, with which it should NEVER be mixed. It issold in small containers which must be mixed and shaken before use. It is veryfinely powdered, and is available in three speeds: fast, medium, and slow. Thefast flash powder is the best for using in explosives or detonators. It burns very rapidly, regardless of confinement or packing, with a hotwhite "flash", hence its name. It is fairly expensive, costing about $11.00.It is sold in magic shops and theatre supply stores.



[ ] AMMONIUM NITRATE

Ammonium nitrate is a high explosive material that is often used asa commercial "safety explosive" It is very stable, and is difficult to ignitewith a match. It will only light if the glowing, red-hot part of a match istouching it. It is also difficult to detonate; (the phenomenon of detonationwill be explained later) it requires a large shockwave to cause it to go highexplosive. Commercially, it is sometimes mixed with a small amount ofnitroglycerine to increase its sensitivity. Ammonium nitrate is used in the"Cold-Paks" or "Instant Cold", available in most drug stores. The "Cold Paks"consist of a bag of water, surrounded by a second plastic bag containing theammonium nitrate. To get the ammonium nitrate, simply cut off the top of theoutside bag, remove the plastic bag of water, and save the ammonium nitrate ina well sealed, airtight container, since it is rather hydroscopic, i.e. ittends to absorb water from the air. It is also the main ingredient in manyfertilizers. Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive high-orderexplosive. It could be made very easily by pouring nitric acid into a largeflask in an ice bath. Then, by simply pouring household ammonia into the flaskand running away, ammonium nitrate would be formed. After the materials havestopped reacting, one would simply have to leave the solution in a warm placeuntil all of the water and any unneutralized ammonia or acid have evaporated.There would be a fine powder formed, which would be ammonium nitrate. It must

be kept in an airtight container, because of its tendency to pick up water fromthe air. The crystals formed in the above process would have to be heated VERYgently to drive off the remaining water.

AMMONIUM NITRATE

Ammonium nitrate could be made by a terrorist or it could be stolen from aconstruction site, since it is usually used in blasting, because it is very stable andinsensitiveto shock and heat. A terrorist could also buy several Instant Cold-Paks from adrug store or medical supply store. The major disadvantage with ammoniumnitrate, from a terrorist's point of view, would be detonating it. A rather

powerful priming charge must be used, and usually with a booster charge. Thediagram below will explain.

_________________________________________ | | | ________| | | | | T.N.T.| ammonium nitrate | |primer |booster| | |_______| | | | | | |_______|_______________________________|

The primer explodes, detonating the T.N.T., which detonates, sending

a tremendous shockwave through the ammonium nitrate, detonating it.

2.1 ACQUIRING CHEMICALS

The first section deals with getting chemicals legally. This sectiondeals with "procuring" them. The best place to steal chemicals is a college.Many state schools have all of their chemicals out on the shelves in thelabs, and more in their chemical stockrooms. Evening is the best time to enter



lab buildings, as there are the least number of people in the buildings, andmost of the labs will still be unlocked. One simply takes a bookbag, wearsa dress shirt and jeans, and tries to resemble a college freshman. If anyoneasks what such a person is doing, the thief can simply say that he is lookingfor the polymer chemistry lab, or some other chemistry-related departmentother than the one they are in. One can usually find out where the variouslabs and departments in a building are by calling the university. Thereare, of course other techniques for getting into labs after hours, such asplacing a piece of cardboard in the latch of an unused door, such as a backexit. Then, all one needs to do is come back at a later hour. Also, beforethis is done, terrorists check for security systems. If one just walks into alab, even if there is someone there, and walks out the back exit, and slip thecardboard in the latch before the door closes, the person in the lab will neverknow what happened. It is also a good idea to observe the building that oneplans to rob at the time that one plans to rob it several days before theactual theft is done. This is advisable since the would-be thief should knowwhen and if the campus security makes patrols through buildings. Of course, ifnone of these methods are successful, there is always section 2.11, but as arule, college campus security is pretty poor, and nobody suspects anotherperson in the building of doing anything wrong, even if they are there at anodd hour.

2.11 TECHNIQUES FOR PICKING LOCKS

If it becomes necessary to pick a lock to enter a lab, the world'smost effective lockpick is dynamite, followed by a sledgehammer. There areunfortunately, problems with noise and excess structural damage with thesemethods. The next best thing, however, is a set of army issue lockpicks.

These, unfortunately, are difficult to acquire. If the door to a lab is locked,but the deadbolt is not engaged, then there are other possibilities. The rulehere is: if one can see the latch, one can open the door. There are severaldevices which facilitate freeing the latch from its hole in the wall. Dentaltools, stiff wire ( 20 gauge ), specially bent aluminum from cans, thin pocket-knives, and credit cards are the tools of the trade. The way that all these

tools and devices are uses is similar: pull, push, or otherwise move the latchout of its hole in the wall, and pull the door open. This is done by slidingwhatever tool that you are using behind the latch, and pulling the latch outfrom the wall. To make an aluminum-can lockpick, terrorists can use an aluminumcan and carefully cut off the can top and bottom. Cut off the cans' raggedends. Then, cut the open-ended cylinder so that it can be flattened out into asingle long rectangle. This should then be cut into inch wide strips. Fold thestrips in 1/4 inch increments (1). One will have a long quadruple-thick 1/4inch wide strip of aluminum. This should be folded into an L-shape, a J-shape,or a U-shape. This is done by folding. The pieces would look like this:

(1)

_________________________________________________________ v1/4 |_______________________________________________________| |1/4 |_______________________________________________________| | 1 inch1/4 |_______________________________________________________| |1/4 |_______________________________________________________| | ^

Fold along lines to make a single quadruple-thick piece ofaluminum. This should then be folded to produce an L,J,or U shaped



device that looks like this: __________________________________________ / ________________________________________| | | | | L-shaped | | | | |_|

_____________________________ / ___________________________| | | | | J-shaped | | | |________ \________|

_____________________ / ___________________| | | | | | | U-shaped | | | |____________________

\____________________|

All of these devices should be used to hook the latch of a door andpull the latch out of its hole. The folds in the lockpicks will be betweenthe door and the wall, and so the device will not unfold, if it is madeproperly.

MASTER COMBINATION LOCKS

Almost all combination locks, including safe locks, operate on

the same basic principle. The dial is turned to a preselected series of numbers that line up the unlocking mechanism and allow the lock to open. People always lose the combinations for these locks. If you have a thorough knowledge of the construction of this type of lock you can usually open them quite easily and determine the combination. There are four methods commonly used to open combination locks, I will briefly discuss all four. The first method is called manipulation, which is a highly skilled field of locksmithng that ver few are able to master. Safe and combination lock manipulation is a specialized field of the locksmith trade. The type of locks that you will usually run into are the cheap inexpensive ones which aren't worth the time to manipulate. Generally manipulation is not even a last resort;

generally manipulation is always ignored. A common method of opening is to drill a small hole in the case to trip the locking mechanism, or read the combination. Some locks can be opened by rapping the case with a soft face hammer or wooden mallet. Others can be opened by codes, but only if you have a code book.

I highly suggest buying a master padlock and peeling the back cover off of it to reveal the internal mechanisms. You should be able to identify: the shackle, locking pawl, locking dog, and three tumbler gates. Each manufacturer will have some variation of the



actual construction, however, they all operate in almost the same manner.

DRILLING Drill a hole approximately 1/16" in diameter. To find out approximately where to drill, draw a line for the 'M' in Master on the back of the lock. A straight line for the edge, through the 'M', and just missing the '.' in WIS on the other side. Now once you have the holw drilled, take a pen light, and look in and read the tumblers. Through the hole you should be able to see the locking pawl and the tumbler gates. Line the tumbler gates up with the locking pawl. Do this by first clearing the lock by turning the dial knob at least two turns to the right, or clockwise as you face the front side. Holding the lock in your left hand, continue turning the dial clockwise slowly, and look through the hole you drilled in the back. Now stop turning the dial when the gate of the first tumbler lines up with the pawl. Now slowly turn the dial in the opposite direction, notice the #2 or middle tumbler, does not move at first. After one revolution, it will begin to turn.

Continue turning slowly until the gate of the #2 tumbler lines up perfectly with the gate of the first tumbler. Next, reverse the dial rotation and slowly turn it clockwise until the gate of the #3 tumbler lines up with the gates of the #1 and #2 tumblers. Now pull out on the shackle and the lock will open if you line up the three

tumblers properly. RAPPING

Sometimes you can open these locks by rapping them open by hitting them with a soft face hammer or wooden mallet. A sudden blow on the opposite side of the locking dog will sometimes depress the locking spring and release the dog, allowing the shackle to come out.

DRILLING METHOD #2 (MASTER) On the back right hand side of the lock, draw a 3/8" line down from where the shackle meets the lock case(inside of loop, not outside!), then draw and 3/8" line at a 90 degree angle to that one.

Now, if you have drawn your lines right, you should be able to drill right next to your pin-point created by the lines. NOTE:This will destroy the lock, but it is a fail safe method of opening

and opening it fast.

CLOSING I have seen many small files on the Master combination lock, but all of them usually talked about the manipulation method.

Hopefully some of you out there will read this file and realize that these methods really work. This file may be destributed freely, but please don't re-write it and take credit for it when you don't have any solid facts to back up the fact that you wrote it.

--------------------------Automotive Locking Systems--------------------------

Automotive locks vary considerably in the types of locking mechanisms and lockarrangements. There are many other methods of gaining access to an automobilewhich are quite often quicker and easier than attempting to pick the lock.



Probably the most common point of entry is the wing or vent window, or, in thenewer models, the rubber molding. Anyone intending to engage in automobile lockwork (or desiring to save approximately fifty dollars or more in service calls)will need some special tools. Both the curve and length of tools are importantto their overall effectiveness.

The tool being used should first be lubricated with a glycerine-based handlotion or hand cleaner before inserting it through the weatherstripping. Thisnot only makes the tools work easier, but helps prevent scarring, tearing or anyother damage to the weatherstripping.

To open most front wing windows, take the lever latch tool and insert itthrough the weatherstripping between the wing window and the window trim.Manipulate the tool by controlling the depth of penetration along the curve. Atthe same time use a rocking action to move the window lock into the unlockedposition.

One other type of wing window lock has a lever latch equipped with a plungerat the pivot of the latch. The plunger deadlocks the latch against rotation,unless the plunger is first pushed in and held until the initial stage ofrotation has been accomplished. This requires that another tool be insertedthrough the weatherstripping and the door window to depress the plunger and holdit in that position while the other tool is used to rotate the latch. Normally,the tool used for depressing the deadlocking plunger has a slight curve at the

tip. The tool's only purpose is to depress the plunger. Another means of access, when the door window is fully raised and the door islocked, consists of inserting a stiff bent wire, and using it directly on thelocking mechanism. Tripping of the lock mechanism may often be done by pullingup on the wire once the tip of the wire has been positioned under the locklinkage. At other times, the bent tip of the wire must be pulled up against thelinkage and then rotated to trip the locking mechanism. With practice one getsthe feel of what is required to open the door.

Automobiles using a rocker type of locking mechanism may be tripped by using athin piece of flat spring steel stock. First, coat the tool with aglycerine-based hand lotion or hand cleaner to protect the trim and rubber

molding. Insert the tool next to the glass or between theweatherstripping/molding and the metal of the door. Feel for the lock linkagewith the notched end of the tool, then move the linkage up and down until thelock moves into the unlocked position.

Another avenue of access to most automobiles is through the firewall, reachingthe door locks with a long stiff wire to push the lock button into the unlockedposition.

Since automobile door locks on most newer models are normally held in place bya retainer clip, as a last resort the lock can be punched out. First, insert abent piece of wire into the keyway and bind it to prevent the lock mechanismfrom falling into the door frame. Once out, the automobile can be opened by

pushing up on the linkage attached to the lock mechanism.

PIPE OR "ZIP" GUNS ------------------

Commonly known as "zip" guns, guns made from pipe have been used for years by juvenile punks. Today's Militants



make them just for the hell of it or to shoot once in an assassination or riot and throw away if there is any danger of apprehension.

They can be used many times but with some, a length of dowel is needed to force out the spent shell.

There are many variations but the illustration shows the basic design.

First, a wooden stock is made and a groove is cut for the barrel to rest in. The barrel is then taped securely to the stock with a good, strong tape.

The trigger is made from galvanized tin. A slot is punched in the trigger flap to hold a roofing, which is wired or soldered onto the flap. The trigger is bent and nailed to the stock on both sides.

The pipe is a short length of one-quarter inch steel gas or water pipe with a bore that fits in a cartridge, yet keeps the cartridge rim from passing through the pipe.

The cartridge is put in the pipe and the cap, with a

hole bored through it, is screwed on. Then the trigger is slowly released to let the nail pass through the hole and rest on the primer.

To fire, the trigger is pulled back with the left hand and held back with the thumb of the right hand. The gun is then aimed and the thumb releases the trigger and the thing actually fires.

Pipes of different lengths and diameters are found in any hardware store. All caliber bullets, from the .22 to the .45 are used in such guns.

Some zip guns are made from two or three pipes nested within each other. For instance, a .22 shell will fit snugly into a length of a car's copper gas line. Unfortunatey, the copper is too weak to withstand the pressure of the firing. So the length of gas line is spread with glue and pushed into a wider length of pipe. This is spread with glue and pushed into a length of steel pipe with threads and a cap.

Using this method, you can accomodate any cartridge, even a rifle shell. The first size of pipe for a rifle shell accomodates the bullet. The second accomodates its wider powder chamber.

A 12-gauge shotgun can be made from a 3/4 inch steel pipe. If you want to comply with the gun laws, the barrel should be at least eighteen inches long.

Its firing mechanism is the same as that for the pistol. It naturally has a longer stock and its handle is lengthened into a rifle butt. Also, a small nail is driven half way into each side of the stock about four inches in the front of the trigger. The rubber band is put over one nail and



brought around the trigger and snagged over the other nail.

In case you actually make a zip gun, you should test it before firing it by hand. This is done by first tying the gun to a tree or post, pointed to where it will do no damage. Then a string is tied to the trigger and you go off several yards. The string is then pulled back and let go. If the barrel does not blow up, the gun is safe to fire by hand.

You should not attempt to register such a gun.

Pipe Cap / / Bullet Tape Pipe / / / \ / v / / \ / !----! / v v v Nail--\ / /-!---v-----!---!-!---!--------- v --- - - - - - -!- -!-!- -!- - - - ! //----> ![][]\ ! ! ! ! ! ^ ! !--\ ![][]/ ! ! ! ! ! Wire/ ! ! \-!- - - - -!- -!-!- -!- - - - !

Trigger---> ! ! !---! ! ! ! ! :::: /! ! /--------!---!-!---!--::::--! / :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: <-\ ! !-! / \-- Rubber / / band ! ! ! / ! ! ! ! ! ! !------!

Z I P G U N

/ <---Nail !-!/ /------------------\ /-----!o!-----\ ! O O O ! ! ------------- ! \--------! !-------/ !! !! !-! !! !! !! !! !! !! Trigger before bending /--> !! !! <--\ Place !! !! Nail

nail hole here

notes: * ethyl alcohol is mixed with methyl alcohol when it is used as a solvent. Methyl alcohol is very poisonous. Solvent alcohol must be at least 95% ethyl alcohol if it is used to make mercury fulminate. Methyl alcohol may prevent mercury fulminate from forming.

+ Ammonia, when bought in stores comes in a variety of forms. The



pine and cloudy ammonias should not be bought; only the clear ammonia should be used to make ammonium triiodide crystals.

@ Mercury thermometers are becoming a rarity, unfortunately. They may be hard to find in most stores. Mercury is also used in mercury switches, which are available at electronics stores. Mercury is a hazardous substance, and should be kept in the thermometer or mercury switch until used. It gives off mercury vapors which will cause brain damage if inhaled. For this reason, it is a good idea not to spill mercury, and to always use it outdoors. Also, do not get it in an open cut; rubber gloves will help prevent this.

^ Nitric acid is very difficult to find nowadays. It is usually stolen by bomb makers, or made by the process described in a later section. A desired concentration for making explosives about 70%.

& The iodine sold in drug stores is usually not the pure crystaline form that is desired for producing ammonium triiodide crystals. To obtain the pure form, it must usually be acquired by a doctor's prescription, but this can be expensive. Once again, theft is the means that terrorists result to.

2.31 NITRIC ACID

There are several ways to make this most essential of all acids for explosives. One method by which it could be made will be presented.

Materials: Equipment: sodium nitrate or adjustable heat source potassium nitrate retort distilled water ice bath concentrated sulfuric acid stirring rod

collecting flask with stopper

1) Pour 32 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid into the retort.

2) Carefully weigh out 58 grams of sodium nitrate, or 68 grams of potassiumnitrate. and add this to the acid slowly. If it all does not dissolve,carefully stir the solution with a glass rod until it does.

3) Place the open end of the retort into the collecting flask, and place the collecting flask in the ice bath.

4) Begin heating the retort, using low heat. Continue heating until liquid begins to come out of the end of the retort. The liquid that forms is nitric

acid. Heat until the precipitate in the bottom of the retort is almost dry, or until no more nitric acid is forming. CAUTION: If the acid is headed too strongly, the nitric acid will decompose as soon as it is formed. This can result in the production of highly flammable and toxic gasses that may explode. It is a good idea to set the above apparatus up, and then get away from it.

Potassium nitrate could also be obtained from store-bought black powder,simply by dissolving black powder in boiling water and filtering outthe sulfur and charcoal. To obtain 68 g of potassium nitrate, it would be



necessary to dissolve about 90 g of black powder in about one litre ofboiling water. Filter the dissolved solution through filter paper in a funnelinto a jar until the liquid that pours through is clear. The charcoal andsulfur in black powder are insoluble in water, and so when the solution ofwater is allowed to evaporate, potassium nitrate will be left in the jar.

3.01 EXPLOSIVE THEORY

An explosive is any material that, when ignited by heat or shock,undergoes rapid decomposition or oxidation. This process releases energy thatis stored in the material in the form of heat and light, or by breaking downinto gaseous compounds that occupy a much larger volume that the original pieceof material. Because this expansion is very rapid, large volumes of air aredisplaced by the expanding gasses. This expansion occurs at a speed greaterthan the speed of sound, and so a sonic boom occurs. This explains themechanics behind an explosion. Explosives occur in several forms: high-orderexplosives which detonate, low order explosives, which burn, and primers, whichmay do both.

High order explosives detonate. A detonation occurs only in a highorder explosive. Detonations are usually incurred by a shockwave that passesthrough a block of the high explosive material. The shockwave breaks apartthe molecular bonds between the atoms of the substance, at a rate approximately

equal to the speed of sound traveling through that material. In a highexplosive, the fuel and oxodizer are chemically bonded, and the shockwave breaksapart these bonds, and re-combines the two materials to produce mostly gasses.T.N.T., ammonium nitrate, and R.D.X. are examples of high order explosives.

Low order explosives do not detonate; they burn, or undergo oxidation.when heated, the fuel(s) and oxodizer(s) combine to produce heat, light, andgaseous products. Some low order materials burn at about the same speed underpressure as they do in the open, such as blackpowder. Others, such as gunpowder,which is correctly called nitrocellulose, burn much faster and hotter when theyare in a confined space, such as the barrel of a firearm; they usually burnmuch slower than blackpowder when they are ignited in unpressurized conditions.Black powder, nitrocellulose, and flash powder are good examples of low order

explosives. Primers are peculiarities to the explosive field. Some of them, such asmercury filminate, will function as a low or high order explosive. They areusually more sensitive to friction, heat, or shock, than the high or lowexplosives. Most primers perform like a high order explosive, except that theyare much more sensitive. Still others merely burn, but when they are confined,they burn at a great rate and with a large expansion of gasses and a shockwave.Primers are usually used in a small amount to initiate, or cause to decompose,a high order explosive, as in an artillery shell. But, they are also frequentlyused to ignite a low order explosive; the gunpowder in a bullet is ignited bythe detonation of its primer.

3.1 IMPACT EXPLOSIVES

Impact explosives are often used as primers. Of the ones discussedhere, only mercury fulminate and nitroglycerine are real explosives; Ammoniumtriiodide crystals decompose upon impact, but they release little heat and nolight. Impact explosives are always treated with the greatest care, and eventhe stupidest anarchist never stores them near any high or low explosives.



about a week, and they should be stored in individual containers that can be thrown away, since they have a tendency to slowly decompose, a process which gives off iodine vapors, which will stain whatever they settle on. One possible way to increase their shelf life is to store them in airtight containers. To use them, simply throw them against any surface or place them where they will be stepped on or crushed.

3.14 PICRATES

Although the procedure for the production of picric acid, ortrinitrophenol has not yet been given, its salts are described first, since theyare extremely sensitive, and detonate on impact. By mixing picric acid withmetal hydroxides, such as sodium or potassium hydroxide, and evaporating thewater, metal picrates can be formed. Simply obtain picric acid, or produce it,and mix it with a solution of (preferably) potassium hydroxide, of a mid rangemolarity. (about 6-9 M) This material, potassium picrate, is impact-sensitive,and can be used as an initiator for any type of high explosive.

3.2 LOW-ORDER EXPLOSIVES

There are many low-order explosives that can be purchased in gunstores and used in explosive devices. However, it is possible that a wisewise store owner would not sell these substances to a suspicious-lookingindividual. Such an individual would then be forced to resort to making

his own low-order explosives.3.21 BLACK POWDER

First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was firstused in weapons and explosives in the 12th century. It is very simple to make,but it is not very powerful or safe. Only about 50% of black powder isconverted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other half is mostly very fineburned particles. Black powder has one major problem: it can be ignited bystatic electricity. This is very bad, and it means that the material must bemade with wooden or clay tools. Anyway, a misguided individual couldmanufacture black powder at home with the following procedure:

MATERIALS EQUIPMENT ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ potassium clay grinding bowl nitrate (75 g) and clay grinder

or or

sodium wooden salad bowl nitrate (75 g) and wooden spoon

sulfur (10 g) plastic bags (3)

charcoal (15 g) 300-500 ml beaker (1)

distilled water coffee pot or heat source

1) Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the grinding bowl and grind it to a very fine powder. Do this to all of the potassium or sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder in one of the plastic bags.

2) Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical in a separate plastic bag.



3) Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the beaker, and add just enough boiling water to the chemical to get it all wet.

4) Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or sodium nitrate, and mix them well for several minutes. Do this until there is no more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is universally black.

5) On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight. Sunlight is really the best way to dry black powder, since it is never too hot, but it is hot enough to evaporate the water.

6) Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe container. Plastic is really the safest container, followed by paper. Never store black powder in a plastic bag, since plastic bags are prone to generate static electricity.

3.23 FUEL-OXODIZER MIXTURES

There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxodizer mixtures that canbe produced by a misguided individual in his own home. Some are very effectiveand dangerous, while others are safer and less effective. A list of workingfuel-oxodizer mixtures will be presented, but the exact measurements of eachcompound are debatable for maximum effectiveness. A rough estimate will be

given of the percentages of each fuel and oxodizer:

oxodizer, % by weight fuel, % by weight speed # notes================================================================================ potassium chlorate 67% sulfur 33% 5 friction/impact sensitive; unstable------------------------------------------------------------------------------- potassium chlorate 50% sugar 35% 5 fairly slow burning; charcoal 15% unstable------------------------------------------------------------------------------- potassium chlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 extremely

magnesium or unstable! aluminum dust 25%------------------------------------------------------------------------------- potassium chlorate 67% magnesium or 8 unstable aluminum dust 33%------------------------------------------------------------------------------- sodium nitrate 65% magnesium dust 30% ? unpredictable sulfur 5% burn rate------------------------------------------------------------------------------- potassium permanganate 60% glycerine 40% 4 delay before ignition depends WARNING: IGNITES SPONTANEOUSLY WITH GLYCERINE!!! upon grain size-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

potassium permanganate 67% sulfur 33% 5 unstable------------------------------------------------------------------------------- potassium permangenate 60% sulfur 20% 5 unstable magnesium or aluminum dust 20%------------------------------------------------------------------------------- potassium permanganate 50% sugar 50% 3 ?------------------------------------------------------------------------------- potassium nitrate 75% charcoal 15% 7 this is sulfur 10% black powder!



------------------------------------------------------------------------------- potassium nitrate 60% powdered iron 1 burns very hot or magnesium 40%------------------------------------------------------------------------------- potassium chlorate 75% phosphorus 8 used to make strike- sesquisulfide 25% anywhere matches------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ammonium perchlorate 70% aluminum dust 30% 6 solid fuel for and small amount of space shuttle iron oxide------------------------------------------------------------------------------- potassium perchlorate 67% magnesium or 10 flash powder(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 33%------------------------------------------------------------------------------- potassium perchlorate 60% magnesium or 8 alternate(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 20% flash powder sulfur 20%------------------------------------------------------------------------------- barium nitrate 30% aluminum dust 30% 9 alternate potassium perchlorate 30% flash powder------------------------------------------------------------------------------- barium peroxide 90% magnesium dust 5% 10 alternate aluminum dust 5% flash powder-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

potassium perchlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 slightly magnesium or unstable aluminum dust 25%------------------------------------------------------------------------------- potassium chlorate 67% red phosphorus 27% 7 very unstable calcium carbonate 3% sulfur 3% impact sensitive------------------------------------------------------------------------------- potassium permanganate 50% powdered sugar 25% 7 unstable; aluminum or ignites if magnesium dust 25% it gets wet!------------------------------------------------------------------------------- potassium chlorate 75% charcoal dust 15% 6 unstable sulfur 10%

================================================================================

NOTE: Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for potassium perchlorate become moisture-absorbent and less stable.

The higher the speed number, the faster the fuel-oxodizer mixture burnsAFTER ignition. Also, as a rule, the finer the powder, the faster the rate ofburning.

As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of fuel-oxodizer mixturesthat can be made at home. By altering the amounts of fuel and oxodizer(s),different burn rates can be achieved, but this also can change the sensitivity

of the mixture.

3.24 PERCHLORATES

As a rule, any oxidizable material that is treated with perchloric acidwill become a low order explosive. Metals, however, such as potassium orsodium, become excellent bases for flash-type powders. Some materials that canbe perchlorated are cotton, paper, and sawdust. To produce potassium or sodiumperchlorate, simply acquire the hydroxide of that metal, e.g. sodium or



potassium hydroxide. It is a good idea to test the material to be perchloratedwith a very small amount of acid, since some of the materials tend to reactexplosively when contacted by the acid. Solutions of sodium or potassiumhydroxide are ideal.

3.3 HIGH-ORDER EXPLOSIVES

High order explosives can be made in the home without too muchdifficulty. The main problem is acquiring the nitric acid to produce the highexplosive. Most high explosives detonate because their molecular structure ismade up of some fuel and usually three or more NO2 ( nitrogen dioxide )molecules. T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene is an excellent example of such amaterial. When a shock wave passes through an molecule of T.N.T., thenitrogen dioxide bond is broken, and the oxygen combines with the fuel, all ina matter of microseconds. This accounts for the great power of nitrogen-basedexplosives. Remembering that these procedures are NEVER TO BE CARRIED OUT,several methods of manufacturing high-order explosives in the home are listed.

3.33 ANFOS

ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution. An ANFOsolves the only other major problem with ammonium nitrate: its tendency to pick

up water vapor from the air. This results in the explosive failing to detonatewhen such an attempt is made. This is rectified by mixing 94% (by weight)ammonium nitrate with 6% fuel oil, or kerosene. The kerosene keeps the ammoniumnitrate from absorbing moisture from the air. An ANFO also requires a largeshockwave to set it off.

3.35 POTASSIUM CHLORATE

Potassium chlorate itself cannot be made in the home, but it can beobtained from labs. If potassium chlorate is mixed with a small amount ofvaseline, or other petroleum jelly, and a shockwave is passed through it, thematerial will detonate with slightly more power than black powder. It must,

however, be confined to detonate it in this manner. The procedure for makingsuch an explosive is outlined below:

MATERIALS EQUIPMENT potassium chlorate zip-lock plastic bag (9 parts, by volume)

petroleum jelly clay grinding bowl (vaseline) or (1 part, by volume) wooden bowl and wooden spoon

1) Grind the potassium chlorate in the grinding bowl carefully and slowly, until the potassium chlorate is a very fine powder. The finer that it is

powdered, the faster (better) it will detonate.2) Place the powder into the plastic bag. Put the petroleum jelly into the plastic bag, getting as little on the sides of the bag as possible, i.e. put the vaseline on the potassium chlorate powder.

3) Close the bag, and kneed the materials together until none of the potassium chlorate is dry powder that does not stick to the main glob. If necessary, add a bit more petroleum jelly to the bag.



4) The material must me used within 24 hours, or the mixture will react to greatly reduce the effectiveness of the explosive. This reaction, however, is harmless, and releases no heat or dangerous products.

3.38 PICRIC ACID

Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or T.N.P., is a militaryexplosive that is most often used as a booster charge to set off another lesssensitive explosive, such as T.N.T. It another explosive that is fairly simpleto make, assuming that one can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and nitricacids. Its procedure for manufacture is given in many college chemistry labmanuals, and is easy to follow. The main problem with picric acid is itstendency to form dangerously sensitive and unstable picrate salts, such aspotassium picrate. For this reason, it is usually made into a safer form, suchas ammonium picrate, also called explosive D. A social deviant would probablyuse a formula similar to the one presented here to make picric acid.

MATERIALS EQUIPMENT --------- --------- phenol (9.5 g) -500 ml flask concentrated sulfuric acid (12.5 ml) -adjustable heat source concentrated nitric acid (38 ml) -1000 ml beaker or other container suitable for boiling in

distilled water -filter paper and funnel -glass stirring rod

1) Place 9.5 grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and carefully add 12.5 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture.

2) Put 400 ml of tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling container and bring the water to a gentle boil.

3) After warming the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it in the boiling water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid for about thirty minutes. After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and allow it to cool for about five minutes.

4) Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the container to cool, use it to create an ice bath, similar to the one used in section 3.13, steps 3-4. Place the 500 ml flask with the mixed acid an phenol in the ice bath. Add 38 ml of concentrated nitric acid in small amounts, stirring the mixture constantly. A vigorous but "harmless" reaction should occur. When the mixture stops reacting vigorously, take the flask out of the ice bath.

5) Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling more tap water. Place the flask containing the mixture in the boiling water, and heat it in the boiling water for 1.5 to 2 hours.

6) Add 100 ml of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it in an ice

bath until it is cold.7) Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the solution through the filter paper in the funnel. Collect the liquid and dispose of it in a safe place, since it is corrosive.

8) Wash out the 500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the contents of the filter paper in the flask. Add 300 ml of water, and shake vigorously.

9) Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry.



10) Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since they will react with metal containers to produce picrates that could explode spontaneously.

-------------------------> Sugar Chlorate Powder <----------------------------------------------------> And its Many Uses <---------------------------

Intro=====

Here I am, back again, aiding the youths of America in having as muchfun as we possibly can before we become old enough to ACTUALLY go to jail.But until then, make like Bill and Ted, AND PARTY ON DUDES!!! But anyhow,as for the focus of this phile, it is Sugar Chlorate Powder. It is more ofa blasting powder than an explosive, but many interesting tricks,explosions, etc. can be gotten from it if ya just use a little brains andof course, common sense. For those of you who are kinda new to theexplosives biz, I would STRONGLY suggest that you look into reading ThePyro Series by .....well..by some guy, I couldn't find his name. It is avery nice beginner phile.. I have included the saftey section of PYRO.TXTat the beginning of this phile so that my readers don't kill themselves.Pretty smart huh? You can find the entire PYRO.TXT phile on many boards if

you want it.. If you still can't find it, I know HELLFIRE BBS will have itso go there. Just tell 'em how you heard of the place, and you should getin..On with the good stuff.....

BASIC SAFTEY ============Pyrotechnic preparations and explosives are, by their very nature,unstable, and subject to ignition by explosion or heat, shock, or friction.A clear understanding of their dangerous properties and due care in thehandling of ingredients or finished products is necessary if accidents areto be avoided. Always observe all possible precautions, particularly thefollowing:

1. Mix only small batches at one time. This means a few grams, or at most, an ounce or so. Don't go for big mixes -- they only make for bigger accidents. The power of an explosive cubes

itself with every ounce. (9 Ounces is 729 times as powerful as one ounce.) 2. When weighing chemicals, use a clean piece of paper on the

scale pan for each item. Then discard the used paper into abucket of water before weighing the next ingredient.

3. Be a safe worker. Dispose of any chemicals spilled on the workbench or equipment between weighings. Don't keep open containers of chemicals on your table, since accidental

spillage or mixing may occur. When finished with a container,

close it, and replace it on the storage shelf. Use only cleanequipment. 4. Where chemicals are to be ground, grind them separately, NEVER TOGETHER. Thoroughly wash and clean equipment before grinding another ingredient. 5. Mixing of batches should be done outdoors, away from flammable structures, such as buildings, barns, garages, etc. Mixes

should also be made in NON METALLIC containers to avoid sparks. Glass also should not be used since it will shatter in case of an accident. Handy small containers can be made by cutting off



the top of a plastic bottle three or four inches from thebottom. Some mixes may most conveniently be made by placing the

ingredients in a plastic bottle and rolling around until the mixture is

uniform. In all cases, point the open end of the container away from yourself. Never hold your body or face over the container. Any stirring should be done with a wooden paddle or stick to avoid sparks or static. Powdered or ground materials may also be mixed by placing them on a large sheet of paper on a flat surface and then rolling

them across the sheet by lifting the sides and corners one at a time. 6. Never ram or stamp mixes into paper or cardboard tubes. Pour

the material in and gently tap or shake the tube to settle the contents down. 7. Store ingredients and finished mixes where they will not be a

fire hazard away from heat and flame. Finished preparations may be stored in plastic bottles which will not shatter in case of an accident. Since many of the ingredients and mixes are

poisonous, they should be stored out of reach of children orpets, preferably locked away.

8. Be sure threads of screw top containers and caps are thoroughly cleaned. This applies also to containers with stoppers of

rubber or cork and to all other types of closures. Traces ofmixture caught between the container and closure may be ignited by the friction of opening or closing the container. Throughout any procedure, WORK WITH CLEAN CONDITIONS. 9. ALWAYS WEAR A FACE SHIELD OR AT LEAST SHATTERPROOF SAFETY

GLASSES. Any careful worker does when handling dangerousmaterials. Be sure lenses and frames are not flammable.

10. Always wear a dust respirator when handling chemicals in dust form. These small particles gather in your lungs and stay

there. They may cause serious illnesses later on in life. 11. Always wear gloves when working with chemicals. 12. Always wear a waterproof lab apron. 13. If you must work indoors, have a good ventilation system.

14. Never smoke anywhere near where you are working. 15. Make sure there are NO open flames present, and NO MOTORS (they produce sparks inside.) No hot water heaters, furnaces, or

pilot lights in stoves!! Sparks have been known to very readily explode dust floating in the air. 16. ALWAYS work with someone. Two heads are better than one. 17. Have a source of water READILY available. (Fire extinguisher, hose, etc.) 18. Never, under any circumstances, use any metal to load chemicals or put chemicals in. Fireworks with metal casings are worse to handle than a live hand grenade. Never use any metal container or can. This includes the very dangerous CO2 cartridges. Many

people have been KILLED because of flying fragments from metal

casings. Again, please do not use metal in any circumstance. 19. Always be thoroughly familiar with the chemicals you are using. Some information will be included in each file, but look for whatever extra information you can. Materials that were once thought to be safe can later be found out to be dangerous

stuff. 20. Wash your hands and face thoroughly after using chemicals.

Don't forget to wash your EARS AND YOUR NOSE. 21. If any device you've built fails to work, leave it alone. After a half hour or so, you may try to bury it, but never try to



unload or reuse any dud. 22. If dust particles start to form in the air, stop what you are doing and leave until it settles. 23. Read the entire file before trying to do anything. 24. NEVER strike any mixture containing Chlorates, Nitrates, Perchlorates, Permanganates, Bichromates, or powdered metals

don't drop them, or even handle them roughly.

These rules may all look like a lot of silly nonsense, but let's look atone example. When the move "The Wizard of OZ" was made, the actress whoplayed the good witch was severely burned when one of the exploding specialeffects got out of hand. The actress who played the bad witch got reallymessed up by the green coloring used on her face, and the original actorwho played the Tin Man got his lungs destroyed by the aluminum dust used tocolor his face. The actor we know of as the tin man was actually areplacement. The point is, these chemicals were being used under thedirection of people a lot more knowlegable of chemicals than you are, andterrible accidents still happened. Don't take this stuff lightly.

Getting The Materials

There are quite a few chemical supply houses that you can mail orderthe materials you need. You'll have to sign a form stating that you're over21 and won't use the chemicals for the types of things we're learning here.

Note that the people who run these supply houses know what sugar chloratepowder does/is and if you order chemicals from the same place, or in thesame order, it may arouse some suspicion. As well as any other chemicalcombination that you use for these little "science porjects". Check the classified ads in the back of magazines like Popular Sciencefor the current supply houses. Order as many catalogs as you can find. Notall sell every chemical that you may want for this series. Also, you canbreak the orders up so as not to look suspicious. Lastly, some houses areused to selling to individuals, and will provide chemicals in 1 or 4 ouncelots, while others prefer to sell to large institutions, and sell theirwares in 1 or 5 pound jugs. Split up your orders according to thequantities of each item you think you will be needing. An ounce of IodineCrystals will cost three or four dollars an ounce, and an ounce bottle of

iodine is pretty tiny, but it goes a long way. If you had to buy that bythe pound, you might just want to forget the whole thing. The shipping charges will mostlikely be compunded because of theordering from seprate places, but it is either that or get caught. So it'syour choice.

The Good Stuff============== When making sugar powder, be sure to get the chemical with the threemolecules of oxygen in it's formula (K Cl O3) (The formula should be on theside of the container. The correct formula is called potassium chloRATE.The one NOT to get is potassium chloRIDE, which is basically a deadchemical. Potassium chlorate is still used by some farmers and can

sometimes even be bought at your local drug store. Most drug supply houseshave it as well. The cost usually varies, but it is a good deal concerningits availability since it is easy to make and get and most other explosivesare not. There is only one down side to Sugar Chlorate Powder. The directionsmust be followed EXACTLY! They are not that hard to follow however.Unless you think that directions on how to make a cake from a box aredifficult, you should have very little problem. Otherwise, DON'T TOUCHTHIS STUFF!



Directions========== You will get a simple step to follow with a little in depth details toclear anything coonfusing up.

1. Buy the correct chemical - use potassium chlorate KClO3. (We already went through that, no need to do it again.)2. Use common, granulated white sugar as the second ingrediant.3. DRY measure the two into equal amounts by volume. When I say DRY, I mean use measuring instruments used in measuring dry powders. NOT the measuring cup used to measure liquids. By equal volume I mean use: 1 cup of KClO3 for each cup of sugar.4. Sift the KClO3 so that all the lumps are removed or crushed. You can use a screen, like the type in screen doors, to sift the powder. Sometimes, if the powder has NO lumps, you can skip this

step.5. Place the sugar in an old pot. Heat it to 255 degrees Fahrenheit, STIRRING CONSTANTLY. Use a simple candy thermometer to tell tempertature. You can get one from a supermarket most likely. Or steal one from your chemistry lab. MAKE SURE YOU ARE MEASURING IN FAHRENHEIT! Not Centigrade.6. Take the sugar away from the stove burner when it reaches 255 and STIR VIGOROUSLY! The stirring is needed to get out all the hot spots in the sugar.

7. Continue to stir until the melted sugar cools sufficiently tocomfortably put your finger into the mixture.8. Quickly stir in the KClO3 before the compound cools down and sets up, completely mixing in the KClO3.9. Dump the solidifying compoundon a pieceof Saran wrapand flatten out to not more that one-half-inch thick.10. Allow the batch to sure overnight (12 hours) in a cool, dry place. A refridgerator is TOO cool and damp. A nice August/September night

in an open garage in New Jersey is perfect.11. Using a wooden rolling pin or mortor and pestal, crush the frangible

powder as fine as required for the intended use. Fine is better forreloading; coarse is okay for bombs.

12. Sift the powder through a fine scren to grade for particle size.

13. Use to wreck havok..er...I mean havoc and hell...Some Uses in Detail=================== For people that are into guns, you can sieve the very fine particleout and use them for reloading ammo. I know people that have loaded itinto .22 LR cartridges after they had pulled the heads and dumped thefactory powder charge. The powder is best used for bombs though. Basically because it is notto nice on gun barrels. Sugar powder is MATCH-SENSITIVE. I belive that it is also impactsensitive. I also suspect that it is CAP-SENSITIVE fro those of you whofool around with blasting caps and dynamite.

In three-quarter-inch pipes, the sugar does not reach critical massand simply fizzles. When ignighted with a fuze in half-pound quantities inone-half-inch or larger pipe bombs, it "barks" nicely, doing a decentamount of damage. The best charges are packed in as dense a manner aspossible. Many people have many different for the best designed pipe bomb. I'llthrow my hat into the ring with my favorite design:

2-IN. OR LARGER IRON PIPE WITH THREADED END CAPS



========== ========== = = = = = |-----------------------------------| = = | | = = | <---------------Pipe packed = |________________ | ________________| = with sugar = = | <--- Fuze Hole = = powder. ========== | ========== | <--- Fuze

COMMON SODA STRAW FILLED WITH MIX OF: 50% SUGAR CHLORATE, 50% FINE HARDWOOD SAWDUST ___________________________________________________ /________\__________\__________\__________\_________\

Another type of fuse to make is the cotton string dipped in a solutionof sugar powder. It can be subject to flash burns, so it should only beused in very long length. Fortunatly, it is cheap and easy to make. The straw design is mch more reliable and predictable than the stringfuze. Just take a nice fat straw and fill it with the about mixture.Varing the amount of sawdust controls the timing of the fuze. Not tomention, you can slip ends into each other to further lenthen the time of

the fuze. The most unusual and most fun thing to do with sugar powder is the ol'light bulb trick. First take a simple 60- or 100-watt light bulb. Knockout a small chunk of the side using a towel or rag a small ball peenhammer. Then fill the bulb with one-quarter to one-half pound of sugarpowder. When you turn on the light switch, the oxygen exposed elements in thebulbs flash, setting off the sugar powder, which thump the room nicely.The thump is not TOO powerful however. It doesn't even blow out thewindows. BUT it does create SO much smoke and confusion that it is wellworth trying to get the bulb to break corrrectly.

-- Roofing: A Beginning Guide --Roofs? Why?------------ The law calls it Tresspassing. We, in our circle of friends, call it roofing.It is the art of exploring Roof-tops, and generally creating havoc, while upthere. Havoc the Chaos (rip), was the one who enjoyed roofing most, but he isnot here to present this file. I felt that roofing was a sport, and the high-light was not to get caught. We have been "caught" by the police, and othervarious peoples while exploring, but it's really been no big deal. On with someideas...

Creative!

--------- The first thing you have to do, although it is rather obvious, is get on topof the roof. Usually, one can climb the pipes on the side/back of the building.Some of them can be quite hot, so be careful. We have figured many creativeways to get on top of roofs, including climbing a nearby roof-top and jumping tothe other roof. (This can get sometimes- dangerous.) It depends what type ofroof you want to get on. We began inhabiting roofs of small department stores,causing some vandalism up there, like shorting the signs, breaking theskylights, and turning the air conditioners on and off. One thing that Havocthe Chaos and the Moon Roach overlooked (sad) was the fact that there were



people inside the store while they had fun. The local police department hadquite a short talk with them. We went on to bigger and better things...

K-Mart was a roof that we visited quite often, and we had a very sadisticapproach towards this store. Taking long, floresicent lighting tubes from thenearby dumpster, they would toss them down into the garden center. This washumorous, to a point. "Payless" was also interesting.

Insanity?--------- We actually did get on the roof of a local shopping mall. You see, thisparticular mall (known in Sunnyvale, as "Vallco", by the way) had a japaneserestraunt near the upper level, which you could enter through the outside of themall. It had a nice grid-type pattern, which we climbed up (at 4 o'clock in themorning) and accessed the roof. The view was nice, although it was dark andquite foggy. Sonitrol (tm), which was discussed in eariler text-files, is asound-detecting device, that was present on top of this mall. When roofing,beware of these little buggers. They resemble long, metal sprinkers, and in thedead of night, it's quite easy to trip over them. We ended up distroying anantennia, nothing else. Remember this, when roofing in the early morning, !getoff! the roof before the sun rises. We had quite a scramble getting down.

Abandoned Buildings?--------------------

Abandoned buildings, despite what your fourth grade teacher told you, canprove to be interesting. We've found many useful things, such as spray paint,nails, and even small pieces of machinery. Spray Paint is fun, but you mustremember not to go overboard. (I think that Havoc was crazy spray-painting"Anarchy!" in the bathrooms of the local fast-food joint...) The mostinteresting abandoned buildings are un-used canneries, warehouses, and storagebuildings. These don't !usually! have security guards, but we have stumbledupon many of these people.

Guards, Cops, and others!------------------------- You've been caught. Big deal, all they generally do is ask for your name. Ofcourse, my name was different every time I was caught. Just play it really

cool, and if your wallet is not in plain sight, then say you don't have id.Security guards won't detain you, unless you've done some obvious vandalism.They want your name and phone number, according to another guard, to call yourparents !if! any vandalism has been done. You must be good in impromtu and bequick about it. (The Moon Roach and I lived on "Penny Lane" and "Abbey Road".That's irony, mind you...Hahaha...)

Why, though, why?----------------- I really don't know. Roofing, like exploring, is adventurous, and fun...to anextent. If you are the type to be scared of heights, and not into senselessviolence, then don't bother with a sport such as this. Enjoy.

3.54 BOTTLED GAS EXPLOSIVES

Bottled gas, such as butane for refilling lighters, propane for propanestoves or for bunsen burners, can be used to produce a powerful explosion. Tomake such a device, all that a simple-minded anarchist would have to do would beto take his container of bottled gas and place it above a can of Sterno or othergelatinized fuel, and light the fuel and run. Depending on the fuel used, andon the thickness of the fuel container, the liquid gas will boil and expand tothe point of bursting the container in about five minutes. In theory, the gas



would immediately be ignited by the burning gelatinized fuel, producing a largefireball and explosion. Unfortunately, the bursting of the bottled gas containeroften puts out the fuel, thus preventing the expanding gas from igniting. Byusing a metal bucket half filled with gasoline, however, the chances of ignitionare better, since the gasoline is less likely to be extinguished. Placing thecanister of bottled gas on a bed of burning charcoal soaked in gasoline wouldprobably be the most effective way of securing ignition of the expanding gas,since although the bursting of the gas container may blow out the flame of thegasoline, the burning charcoal should immediately re-ignite it. Nitrous oxide,hydrogen, propane, acetylene, or any other flammable gas will do nicely.

4.0 USING EXPLOSIVES

Once a terrorist has made his explosives, the next logical step is toapply them. Explosives have a wide range of uses, from harassment, to vandalism,to murder. NONE OF THE IDEAS PRESENTED HERE ARE EVER TO BE CARRIED OUT,EITHERIN PART OR IN FULL! DOING SO CAN LEAD TO PROSECUTION, FINES, ANDIMPRISONMENT! The first step that a person that would use explosive would take wouldbe to determine how big an explosive device would be needed to do whatever hadto be done. Then, he would have to decide what to make his bomb with. He wouldalso have to decide on how he wanted to detonate the device, and determine

where the best placement for it would be. Then, it would be necessary to seeif the device could be put where he wanted it without it being discovered ormoved. Finally, he would actually have to sit down and build his explosivedevice. These are some of the topics covered in the next section.

4.1 SAFETY

There is no such thing as a "safe" explosive device. One can only speakin terms of relative safety, or less unsafe.

4.2 IGNITION DEVICES

There are many ways to ignite explosive devices. There is the classic"light the fuse, throw the bomb, and run" approach, and there are sensitivemercury switches, and many things in between. Generally, electrical detonationsystems are safer than fuses, but there are times when fuses are moreappropriate than electrical systems; it is difficult to carry an electricaldetonation system into a stadium, for instance, without being caught. A devicewith a fuse or impact detonating fuse would be easier to hide.

4.21 FUSE IGNITION

The oldest form of explosive ignition, fuses are perhaps the favorite

type of simple ignition system. By simply placing a piece of waterproof fuse ina device, one can have almost guaranteed ignition. Modern waterproof fuse isextremely reliable, burning at a rate of about 2.5 seconds to the inch. It isavailable as model rocketry fuse in most hobby shops, and costs about $3.00 fora nine-foot length. Fuse is a popular ignition system for pipe bombers becauseof its simplicity. All that need be done is light it with a match or lighter. Of course, if the Army had fuses like this, then the grenade, which usesfuse ignition, would be very impracticle. If a grenade ignition system can beacquired, by all means, it is the most effective. But, since such things do notjust float around, the next best thing is to prepare a fuse system which does



not require the use of a match or lighter, but still retains its simplicity.One such method is described below:

MATERIALS _________

strike-on-cover type matches electrical tape or duct tape waterproof fuse

1) To determine the burn rate of a particular type of fuse, simply measure a 6 inch or longer piece of fuse and ignite it. With a stopwatch, press the start button the at the instant when the fuse lights, and stop the watch when the fuse reaches its end. Divide the time of burn by the length of fuse, and you have the burn rate of the fuse, in seconds per inch. This will be shown below:

Suppose an eight inch piece of fuse is burned, and its complete time of combustion is 20 seconds.

20 seconds ---------- = 2.5 seconds per inch. 8 inches

If a delay of 10 seconds was desired with this fuse, divide the desired time by the number of seconds per inch:

10 seconds ------------------ = 4 inches 2.5 seconds / inch

NOTE: THE LENGTH OF FUSE HERE MEANS LENGTH OF FUSE TO THE POWDER. SOMEFUSE, AT LEAST AN INCH, SHOULD BE INSIDE THE DEVICE. ALWAYS ADD THIS EXTRA INCH, AND PUT THIS EXTRA INCH AN INCH INTO THE DEVICE!!!

2) After deciding how long a delay is desired before the explosive device is to go off, add about 1/2 an inch to the premeasured amount of fuse, and cut it off.

3) Carefully remove the cardboard matches from the paper match case. Do not pull off individual matches; keep all the matches attached to the cardboard base. Take one of the cardboard match sections, and leave the other one to make a second igniter.

4) Wrap the matches around the end of the fuse, with the heads of the matches touching the very end of the fuse. Tape them there securely, making sure not to put tape over the match heads. Make sure they are very secure by pulling on them at the base of the assembly. They should not be able to move.

5) Wrap the cover of the matches around the matches attached to the fuse, making sure that the striker paper is below the match heads and the striker faces the match heads. Tape the paper so that is fairly tight around the matches. Do not tape the cover of the striker to the fuse or to the matches. Leave enough of the match book to pull on for ignition. _____________________ \ / \ / ------ match book cover \ /



| M|f|M ---|------- match head | A|u|A | | T|s|T | | C|e|C | |tapeH|.|Htape| | |f| | |#####|u|#####|-------- striking paper |#####|s|#####| \ |e| / \ |.| / \ |f| / \ |u| / |ta|s|pe| |ta|e|pe| |.| |f| |u| |s| |e| |.| |_|

The match book is wrapped around the matches, and is taped to itself.

The matches are taped to the fuse. The striker will rub against the matcheads when the match book is pulled.

6) When ready to use, simply pull on the match paper. It should pull the striking paper across the match heads with enough friction to light them. In turn, the burning matcheads will light the fuse, since it adjacent to the burning match heads.

4.22 IMPACT IGNITION

Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for spontaneousterrorist activities. The problem with an impact-detonating device is that it

must be kept in a very safe container so that it will not explode while beingtransported to the place where it is to be used. This can be done by having aremovable impact initiator.

The best and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses factorymade initiators or primers. A no. 11 cap for black powder firearms is one suchprimer. They usually come in boxes of 100, and cost about $2.50. To use sucha cap, however, one needs a nipple that it will fit on. Black powder nipplesare also available in gun stores. All that a person has to do is ask for apackage of nipples and the caps that fit them. Nipples have a hole that goesall the way through them, and they have a threaded end, and an end to put thecap on. A cutaway of a nipple is shown below:

________________ | | _ | | | | _______| |^^^^^^^^| | | ___________| | | | | no. 11 |_______| | percussion _______ | ------- threads for screwing cap here | | | nipple onto bomb



| |___________ | |_______ | | | |^^^^^^^^^| | |_| | | |________________|

When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be drilled intowhatever container is used to make the bomb out of. The nipple is then screwedinto the hole so that it fits tightly. Then, the cap can be carried and placedon the bomb when it is to be thrown. The cap should be bent a small amountbefore it is placed on the nipple, to make sure that it stays in place. Theonly other problem involved with an impact detonating bomb is that it muststrike a hard surface on the nipple to set it off. By attaching fins or a smallparachute on the end of the bomb opposite the primer, the bomb, when thrown,should strike the ground on the primer, and explode. Of course, a bomb withmercury fulminate in each end will go off on impact regardless of which end itstrikes on, but mercury fulminate is also likely to go off if the personcarrying the bomb is bumped hard.

4.23 ELECTRICAL IGNITION

Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the safest and

most reliable form of ignition. Electrical systems are ideal for demolitionwork, if one doesn't have to worry so much about being caught. With two spoolsof 500 ft of wire and a car battery, one can detonate explosives from a "safe",comfortable distance, and be sure that there is nobody around that could gethurt. With an electrical system, one can control exactly what time a devicewill explode, within fractions of a second. Detonation can be aborted in lessthan a second's warning, if a person suddenly walks by the detonation sight, orif a police car chooses to roll by at the time. The two best electrical ignitersare military squibs and model rocketry igniters. Blasting caps for constructionalso work well. Model rocketry igniters are sold in packages of six, and costabout $1.00 per pack. All that need be done to use them is connect it to twowires and run a current through them. Military squibs are difficult to get,but they are a little bit better, since they explode when a current is run

through them, whereas rocketry igniters only burst into flame. Military squibscan be used to set off sensitive high explosives, such as R.D.X., or potassiumchlorate mixed with petroleum jelly. Igniters can be used to set off blackpowder, mercury fulminate, or guncotton, which in turn, can set of a high orderexplosive.

4.24 ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION

Electro-mechanical ignition systems are systems that use some type ofmechanical switch to set off an explosive charge electrically. This type ofswitch is typically used in booby traps or other devices in which the personwho places the bomb does not wish to be anywhere near the device when it

explodes. Several types of electro-mechanical detonators will be discussed

4.241 Mercury Switches

Mercury switches are a switch that uses the fact that mercury metalconducts electricity, as do all metals, but mercury metal is a liquid atroom temperatures. A typical mercury switch is a sealed glass tube withtwo electrodes and a bead of mercury metal. It is sealed because of mercury'snasty habit of giving off brain-damaging vapors. The diagram below may help



to explain a mercury switch.

______________ A / \ B _____wire +______/___________ \ \ ( Hg ) | / \ _(_Hg_)__|___/ | | wire - | | |

When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is mercury's atomic symbol) touches bothcontacts, current flows through the switch. If this particular switch was inits present position, A---B, current would be flowing, since the mercury cantouch both contacts in the horizontal position. If, however, it was in the | position, the drop of mercury would onlytouch the + contact on the A side. Current, then couldn't flow, since mercurydoes not reach both contacts when the switch is in the vertical position. This type of switch is ideal to place by a door. If it were placed inthe path of a swinging door in the verticle position, the motion of the doorwould knock the switch down, if it was held to the ground by a piece if tape.This would tilt the switch into the verticle position, causing the mercury to

touch both contacts, allowing current to flow through the mercury, and to theigniter or squib in an explosive device. Imagine opening a door and having itslammed in your face by an explosion.

4.242 Tripwire Switches

A tripwire is an element of the classic booby trap. By placing a nearlyinvisible line of string or fishing line in the probable path of a victim, andby putting some type of trap there also, nasty things can be caused to occur.If this mode of thought is applied to explosives, how would one use such atripwire to detonate a bomb. The technique is simple. By wrapping the tips ofa standard clothespin with aluminum foil, and placing something between them,

and connecting wires to each aluminum foil contact, an electric tripwire canbe made, If a piece of wood attached to the tripwire was placed between thecontacts on the clothespin, the clothespin would serve as a switch. When thetripwire was pulled, the clothespin would snap together, allowing current toflow between the two pieces of aluminum foil, thereby completing a circuit,which would have the igniter or squib in it. Current would flow betweenthe contacts to the igniter or squib, heat the igniter or squib, causing itit to explode.

__________________________________ \_foil___________________________/ Insert strip of ----------------------------spring wood with trip- _foil__________________________

wire between foil /_______________________________\ contacts.

Make sure that the aluminum foil contacts do not touch the spring, sincethe spring also conducts electricity.

4.243 Radio Control Detonators



In the movies, every terrorist or criminal uses a radio controlleddetonator to set off explosives. With a good radio detonator, one can beseveral miles away from the device, and still control exactly when it explodes,in much the same way as an electrical switch. The problem with radio detonatorsis that they are rather costly. However, there could possibly be a reason thata terrorist would wish to spend the amounts of money involved with a RC (radiocontrol) system and use it as a detonator. If such an individual wanted todevise an RC detonator, all he would need to do is visit the local hobby storeor toy store, and buy a radio controlled toy. Taking it back to his/her abode,all that he/she would have to do is detach the solenoid/motor that controls themotion of the front wheels of a RC car, or detach the solenoid/motor of theelevators/rudder of a RC plane, or the rudder of a RC boat, and re-connect thesquib or rocket engine igniter to the contacts for the solenoid/motor. Thedevice should be tested several times with squibs or igniters, and fullycharged batteries should be in both he controller and the receiver (the partthat used to move parts before the device became a detonator).

4.3 DELAYS

A delay is a device which causes time to pass from when a device isset up to the time that it explodes. A regular fuse is a delay, but it wouldcost quite a bit to have a 24 hour delay with a fuse. This section deals withthe different types of delays that can be employed by a terrorist who wishes to

be sure that his bomb will go off, but wants to be out of the country when itdoes.

4.31 FUSE DELAYS

It is extremely simple to delay explosive devices that employ fuses forignition. Perhaps the simplest way to do so is with a cigarette. An averagecigarette burns for about 8 minutes. The higher the "tar" and nicotine rating,the slower the cigarette burns. Low "tar" and nicotine cigarettes burn quickerthan the higher "tar" and nicotine cigarettes, but they are also less likely togo out if left unattended, i.e. not smoked. Depending on the wind or draft ina given place, a high "tar" cigarette is better for delaying the ignition of

a fuse, but there must be enough wind or draft to give the cigarette enoughoxygen to burn. People who use cigarettes for the purpose of delaying fuseswill often test the cigarettes that they plan to use in advance to make surethey stay lit and to see how long it will burn. Once a cigarettes burn rateis determined, it is a simple matter of carefully putting a hole all the waythrough a cigarette with a toothpick at the point desired, and pushingthe fuse for a device in the hole formed.

|=| |=| ---------- filter |=| | | | |

|o| ---------- hole for fuse cigarette ------------ | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |



This device is set to go off in eleven hours. When the hour hand of theclock reaches the contact near the numeral 5, it will complete the circuit,allowing current to flow through the igniter or squib.

The main disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can only be set for a maximum time of 12 hours. If an electronic timer is used, such as that inan electronic clock, then delays of up to 24 hours are possible. By removingthe speaker from an electronic clock, and attaching the wires of a squib origniter to them, a timer with a delay of up to 24 hours can be made. To utilizethis type of timer, one must have a socket that the clock can be plugged into.All that one has to do is set the alarm time of the clock to the desired time,connect the leads, and go away. This could also be done with an electronicwatch, if a larger battery were used, and the current to the speaker of thewatch was stepped up via a transformer. This would be good, since such a timercould be extremely small. The timer in a VCR (Video Cassette Recorder) wouldbe ideal. VCR's can usually be set for times of up to a week. The leads fromthe timer to the recording equipment would be the ones that an igniter or squibwould be connected to. Also, one can buy timers from electronics stores thatwould be ideal. Finally, one could employ a digital watch, and use a relay, orelectro-magnetic switch to fire the igniter, and the current of the watch wouldnot have to be stepped up.

4.33 CHEMICAL DELAYS Chemical delays are uncommon, but they can be extremely effective insome cases. If a glass container is filled with concentrated sulfuric acid,and capped with several thicknesses of aluminum foil, or a cap that it will eatthrough, then it can be used as a delay. Sulfuric acid will react with aluminumfoil to produce aluminum sulfate and hydrogen gas, and so the container must beopen to the air on one end so that the pressure of the hydrogen gas that isforming does not break the container. See diagram on following page.

_ _ | | | | | | | |

| | | | | |_____________| | | | | | | | sulfuric | | | | | | | | acid | | | | | |---------- aluminum foil | |_____________| | (several thicknesses) |_________________|

The aluminum foil is placed over the bottom of the container and securedthere with tape. When the acid eats through the aluminum foil, it can be used

to ignite an explosive device in several ways. 1) Sulfuric acid is a good conductor of electricity. If the acid that eats through the foil is collected in a glass container placed underneath the foil, and two wires are placed in the glass container, a current will be able to flow through the acid when both of the wires are immersed in the acid.

2) Sulfuric acid reacts very violently with potassium chlorate. If the acid drips down into a container containing potassium chlorate,



the potassium chlorate will burst into flame. This flame can be used to ignite a fuse, or the potassium chlorate can be the igniter for a thermit bomb, if some potassium chlorate is mixed in a 50/50 ratio with the thermit, and this mixture is used as an igniter for the rest of the thermit.

3) Sulfuric acid reacts with potassium permangenate in a similar way.

4.56 PHONE BOMBS

The phone bomb is an explosive device that has been used in the pastto kill or injure a specific individual. The basic idea is simple: when theperson answers the phone, the bomb explodes. If a small but powerful highexplosive device with a squib was placed in the phone receiver, when thecurrent flowed through the receiver, the squib would explode, detonating thehigh explosive in the person's hand. Nasty. All that has to be done isacquire a squib, and tape the receiver switch down. Unscrew the mouthpiececover, and remove the speaker, and connect the squib's leads where it was.Place a high explosive putty, such as C-1 (see section 3.31) in the receiver,and screw the cover on, making sure that the squib is surrounded by the C-1.Hang the phone up, and leave the tape in place. When the individual to whomthe phone belongs attempts to answer the phone, he will notice the tape, andremove it. This will allow current to flow through the squib. Note that

the device will not explode by merely making a phone call; the owner of thephone must lift up the receiver, and remove the tape. It is highly probablethat the phone will be by his/her ear when the device explodes...

5.21 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR HANDGUNS

If an individual wished to produce explosive ammunition for his/herhandgun, he/she could do it, provided that the person had an impact-sensitiveexplosive and a few simple tools. One would first purchase all lead bullets,and then make or acquire an impact-detonating explosive. By drilling a holein a lead bullet with a drill, a space could be created for the placement of

an explosive. After filling the hole with an explosive, it would be sealedin the bullet with a drop of hot wax from a candle. A diagram of a completedexploding bullet is shown below.

_o_ ------------ drop of wax /|*|\ | |*|-|----------- impact-sensitive explosive | |_| | |_____|

This hollow space design also works for putting poison in bullets.

7.0 PYROTECHNICA ERRATA There are many other types of pyrotechnics that a perpetrator ofviolence might employ. Smoke bombs can be purchased in magic stores, and largemilitary smoke bombs can be bought through adds in gun and military magazines.Also, fireworks can also be used as weapons of terror. A large aerial displayrocket would cause many injuries if it were to be fired so that it landed on theground near a crowd of people. Even the "harmless" pull-string fireworks, whichconsists of a sort of firecracker that explodes when the strings runningthrough it are pulled, could be placed inside a large charge of a sensitive



high explosive. Tear gas is another material that might well be usefulto the sociopath, and such a material could be instantly disseminated overa large crowd by means of a rocket-bomb, with nasty effects.

PART 2 - Tennis ball cannons------ Information from the Usenet. The Usenet is a worldwide network of 15,000 machines and over 500,000 people- And growing!

At this time (twelve years ago) most soft drink cans were rolled tin ratherthan the molded aluminum. We would cut the tops and bottoms off of abunch of them and tape them together with duct tape, forming a tubeof two feet or more. At the end we would tape a can with the bottomintact, more holes punched (with a can opener) around the top, and asmall hole in the side at the base.We then fastened this contraption to a tripod so we could aim it reliably.Any object that came somewhat close to filling the tube was then placedtherein. In the shop, we used the clock as a target and an empty plasticsolder spool as ammunition, with tape over the ends of the center hole andsometimes filled with washers for weight. When taken to parties or picnics,we would use whatever was handy. Hot dog rolls or napkins filled withpotato chips provided spectacular entertainment.Once loaded, a small amount of lighter fluid was poured into the hole inthe side of the end can and allowed to vaporize for a few moments. The

"fire control technician" would announce "Fire in the Hole" and igniteit.

BOOM! Whoosh! The clock never worked after that!----------Our version of the potatoe chip cannon, was built similarly.Ours used coke cans, six with the top and bottom removed, and theseventh had church key holes all around one end. This was spiralwrapped with at least two rolls of duct tape. A wooden shoulder restand forward hand grip was taped to the tube. For ignition we usedlantern batteries to a model-t coil, actuated by a push button onthe hand grip. A fresh wilson tennis ball was stuffed all the wayback to the grid, and a drop or two of lighter fluid was dropped in

one of two holes in the end. The ignition wire was poked throughthe other hole.We would then lie in ambush, waiting for somthing to move. When firedwith the proper air/fuel mixture, a satisfying thoomp! At maximum rangethe ball would travel about 100 yards with a 45 degree launch angle.Closer up the ball would leave a welt on an warring opponent. Whenlaunched at a moving car the thud as it hit the door would generallyrattle anyone inside.Luckily we never completed the one that shot golf balls.

PART 3 - Fun with dry ice. LOTS of fun with dry ice. Also from------ the Usenet.

[email protected] (XXXX XXXXX) writes:>... if you fill a pot with boiling water, then add some dishsoap, and>then drop in a large chunk of dry ice, you get a large number of>bubbles VERY quickly. We're talking terabubbles. Do this outside or>you will be sorry.

>Has anyone ever thrown dry ice into a public pool? As long as you>chuck it into the bottom of the deep end, it's safe, and it's really>impressive if the water is warm enuff



With CO2 flame extinguisher at the ready, here goes --

from _FM 10-0: TRICKS, AWFUL_ (includes material from rec.humor):

DRY ICE

Time Bombs:

1. Get a small plastic container with lid (we used the small plasticcans that hold the coaters used for large-format Polaroid film). Afilm canister would probably work; the key is, it should seal tightlyand take a fair amount of effort to open).

Place a chunk of dry ice in the can, put on the lid without quitesealing it. Put the assembled bomb in your pocket, or behind yourback.

Approach the mark and engage in normal conversation. When hisattention is drawn away, quickly seal the lid on the bomb, deposit itsomewhere within a few feet of the mark, out of obvious sight, thenleave.

Depending on variables (you'll want to experiment first), you'll heara loud "pop" and an even louder "Aarrggghhh!" within a minute, whenthe CO2 pressure becomes sufficient to blow off the lid.

In a cluttered lab, this is doubly nasty because the mark willproabably never figure out what made the noise.

2. Put 2-3 inches of water in a 2-liter plastic pop bottle. Put inas many chunks of dry ice as possible before the smoke gets too thick.Screw on the cap, place in an appropriate area, and run like hell.After about a minute (your mileage may vary), a huge explosion willresult, spraying water everywhere, along with what's left of the 2-liter bottle.

More things to do with Dry Ice:"I put it in my teacher's coffee. (Holy sh-t, the place is on fire!)""Throw it in toilets. (Creature from the Brown Lagoon)""Make soda from ordinary juice, etc.""Blow up balloons and condoms with it (Put a chunk in a balloon, tieup the end.)""Fun stuff. It SCREAMS when it comes into contact with metal...""You can safely hold a small piece of dry ice in your mouth if youKEEP IT MOVING CONSTANTLY. It looks like you're smoking or on fire."Fluorescein (the stuff in navy-surplus sea dye markers) iseffective in swimming pools. Or try a "Baby Ruth" candy bar...

Hydrogen Pressure Device:=========================

Materials Needed: Bottle or jar, acid, aluminum foil, cloth [optional].

Seltzer Bottles have given better results overall, but a jar will usually dothe job. A strong cap or lid is also needed to prevent the hydrogen gas fromescaping. Many acids [or even bases] will work with the aluminum foil. Wehave had success with muriatic acid [which is inexpensive, and easy to get]



and hydrochloric acid. A base such as Milk of Magnesia or Liquid Plumr shouldalso work with the aluminum foil. If you are using an acid, other metalsbesides aluminum should work. Zinc and magnesium are two such metals.

Procedure: Fill approximately 1/6 of your bottle with your acid/base. Put twoor three rolled up, cigar-shaped pieces of aluminum foil in the bottle, andwhen ready, cap tightly. Shake the bottle to cover all of the aluminum withacid, and quickly get out of the area. A typical explosion will spread glassover a 35 yard radius. You can experiment with your materials to find theoptimum amounts of acid/base and metal that you will need. Caution must beused with fast reactions [i.e. Hydrochloric acid with Zinc] so that thebomb won't explode too too early. To achieve a "fireball" effect, tie aburning cloth to the bottle. When the explosion occurs, the flaming rag willignite the released hydrogen; producing a brief fireball.

Observations: The explosion is relatively loud; being greater than that of ashotgun firing. Debris is usually spread over a 25-35 yard radius. Onoccaision, it will take several minutes for the bomb's pressure to build up.If you are unsure about the state of the device, we recommend that you waitat least 5 minutes before going near the bomb. You might want to breakthe bottle from a distance by shooting it with a gun or throwing rocks at it.We cannot emphasize how important it is for you to clear the area as quickly aspossible. Don't waste time by messing with the burning cloth! If you're goingto use the cloth, ignite it quickly. We had one of these blow up only seconds

after we cleared the area. One should value his life more than he values acomparatively worthless bomb!

Carbon Dioxide Pressure Device:===============================

Materials: Bottle or jar, dry ice, water [optional].

As with the hydrogen device, we have had greater success with seltzer bottlesthan with jars. Once again, it is assumed that you have a good cap or lid toprevent the carbon dioxide gas from escaping. Dry Ice can usually be boughtfrom an ice cream store for under $1.50 a pound. Dry ice does not keep long

[it becomes gaseous at -109 F] and refridgeration will help little. Water canbe used to speed up the device's reaction.

Procedure: Break the dry ice into chunks that will fit in your bottle. Themore dry ice you have, the faster the reaction. Cap the bottle tightly, andquickly clear the area. If you need a fast reaction, add water to the bottlebefore capping. The reaction's speed increases with warmer water. Be carefulnot to get a reaction that is too fast. People have had these devices blow upin their faces because they used hot water and didn't clear the area fastenough. Take into consideration the temperature of your site and excercisecaution on hot days. We strongly advise against using hot water in this bomb![Unless, of course, you have a death wish]

Observations: The is a very economical and simple bomb. It can be extremelydangerous if the user is careless. By using water of different temperatures,one can roughly control the speed of this bomb's reaction. We've had a fewclose calls with this bomb, so we don't use water in it anymore. The reactiongoes fast enough without water.

Carbon Dioxide Pressure Device II:==================================



Materials: Bottle or jar, baking soda, vinegar, tissue paper.

This is another carbon dioxide producing bomb. It is generally less effectivethan the two previous bombs we have described.

Procedure: Fill about 1/5 of your bottle with vinegar. Next take some tissuepaper [Kleenex or toilet paper] and wrap it around as much baking soda aspossible. You may want to use a few pieces of tissue paper. The more tissuepaper you use, the longer the delay will be for the reaction. When ready, dropthe wrapped baking soda into the bottle, cap the bottle *quickly*, and [needwe say?] run! If the bomb never explodes, that means there wasn't enoughpressure. On your next try, add more vinegar and use more baking soda.

Observations: Experimentation is the key to perfecting this bomb. Of course,be extremely careful, and don't stick around after capping. The materials forthis bomb are common household items, making it more convienient to producethan the other two bombs.

Acetylene Pressure Device:==========================

Materials: Jar, calcium carbide, water, cardboard.

This is a very deadly device. Carbide, when in contact with water, producesthe ultra-flammable acetylene gas.

Procedure: Fill about 1/3 of the jar with water. Next, cut out a piece ofcardboard that is roughly the diameter of the jar. Push this inside the jarabout 1/2 way. Don't let it touch the water! The cardboard should stay whereyou put it if it's big enough. Now put some carbide onto the cardboard. Youdon't want the carbide to touch the water. Cap the jar, and when ready, turnit upsidown and shake it a little. The jar should violently explode shortlythereafter. If you want, leave a burning rag next to the bottle and you'llhave a fireball. Have the rag lit before you shake the jar! Don't waste anytime next to the jar after shaking it! This is a very deadly bomb, and youdon't want to be its victim.

Observations: This is a very dangerous, yet spectacular bomb. Needless tosay, it's also quite loud. If you don't know where to get carbide, try agood sporting goods store. It's used in some miner's lamps.

Chlorine Pressure Device:========================= Materials: Small-medium sized jar, 1 or 2 large test tubes, acid, bleach.

This is a fairly tricky bomb to make. Clorine is not a good gas to mess withso use care with this device. Chlorine can blind you and damage your lungs.

Procedure: Fill one test tube with acid, and fill 1/3 of the jar with bleach.Put the acid filled test tube in the jar and tape it to the side of the jar.If your jar is large, you will want to fill two test tubes with acid. Whenready, cap the jar and turn it upside-down. Run to a nice viewing locationand watch the explosion! Don't go too near; chlorine is powerful stuff.

Observations: This pressure device not only makes a nice explosion, butspreads chlorine around the area. Try to get a small jar and big test tubesfor this bomb. If you have a big jar and small test tubes, there won't be



enough pressure to cause an explosion

Phosgene Pressure Device:=========================

Materials: Small-medium sized jar, 1 or 2 large test tubes, ammonia, bleach.

This bomb has the same setup as the chlorine bomb, but uses ammonia instead ofacid to react with the bleach. Phosgene is also a dangerous gas and was usedin World War I in chemical weapons.

Procedure: Use the same procedure as the chlorine device, but use ammoniainstead of acid. First, try putting the ammonia in the test tube and thebleach in the jar. If that doesn't create enough pressure put the ammoniain the jar and the bleach in the test tube.

Observations: This is almost identical to the chlorine bomb. The onlydifference is that they make different gasses. These last two bombs arenot as reliable as other bombs in this manuscript, but you can experimentto get the best results.

Radar Detectors!!!! Part one: Operation.

Police Radar works via the doppler effect, best demonstrated by sound rather than microwaves. The doppler effect is the

relation of speed to the pitch of 'sound'. Sometime, all of you must have had the distinct pleasure of being honked at by a motorist on the go,

you might have noticed that the horn <an F flat on most american cars>begins with a higher pitch and as the car passes, drowns off to a lower

tone. The sound waves at the front of the car are pressed together by theforward motion of the car, creating a higher pitch. As the car passes,

the tone dies off to a lower pitch because the waves are spread out. Police radar works in much the same way. The major differences are the

frequency and the concentration of the carrier. As of 1988, the F.C.C. is rumored to have lifted restrictions on police radar frequencies. Before, only two frequencies were approved for

police radar use. X-band <10.525 GHz> which is most commonly used, andK-band <24.15 Ghz>. I will assume for now, due to lack of any SOLID evidence

supporting the restriction lift, that those are the only two in operation. Police radar 'beams' are similar in shape to a flashlight beam. They begin with a thin width and cone outwards with distance. Most guns operating at

the X-band level have a range of about 2000 ft., although high power units can exceed 2500 and 3000ft., and K-band guns fall shorter at about 1200 ft.. At 1500ft., the radar beam becomes about the width of four highway lanes, so for practical purposes radars range is around 1700 ft.. A radar signal transmitted from the 'Radar Gun's' transmitter, (called the oscillator) will

bounce off a object and return to the radar receiver (or antenna). If the object is moving, the frequency of the beam will be altered as it bounces. This is most easily visualized watching water ripples. Assume now that I have just dropped a pebble in a pond, and the ripples are moving outward, assume also for purposes of simplicity that the ripples are moving at 1 foot per second, and that they are one foot apart. The ripples are

therefore also one second apart. Upon bouncing off a stationary object the ripples will return weakened, but at the same interval and speed

<Not really the same speed, but let's not complicate things>. Now let us assume that a toy boat is traveling in the water at .5 ft. per second,



1/2 the speed of the ripples, away from the point which I dropped thepebble. Assume the first ripple has hit the boat and is traveling back.

The second ripple now traveling at 1 foot per second is only gaining on the boat by .5 feet per second <1 ft. per second - .5 ft. per second>. This means that the ripple is one foot away from the boat, as the ripples are one foot apart. The ripple will take 2 second to reach the boat, as the closure speed is .5 ft. per second and the distance is 1 foot. The ripple strikes the boat and bounces back two seconds after the first ripple. The process works

inversely for an object moving towards the pebbles point of impact.As the distance between the ripples can be determined by the speed, on the

other side, the speed can be determined by the distance between the ripples. Police radar works in the same way with microwaves. The microwave signal bounces off a moving vehicle and returns altered in frequency. In this way the radar unit determines the speed of the object. Radar is only accurate when the object is moving directly at, or directly away from the gun, although some modern guns will account for this 'COSINE error', most won't. Cosine error can be defined as this: When a radar signal bounces off an object at an angle from the objects direction of travel it will return a portion of the objects speed computed by the cosine of the infraction angle. If the angle of the objects direction and the radars direction is 20 degrees the speed returned by the radar is 93.97% of the objects actual speed. cos (20) = .93969262 * objects speed = returned speed. For example: A car is traveling at 75 m.p.h.. The state trooper, in his infinite wisdom, decides to "Clock" the automobile in hopes of meeting his

quota for the month. Picking up his handy radar gun, he aims, and fires an invisible beam of microwave energy. The officer however, being the rookie he is, leaves a high angle between the cars direction and his beam of 45 degrees. Cos (45) = .707106781 .707106781 * 75m.p.h. = 53.03300859

53 m.p.h. is displayed on the officers screen. Lucky motorist. Sorry 40 column users.

| |\ | \ | \ - Cosine Error - | \ | 45 \

| deg.\ - radar beam | \| \

v \ Direction of \ cars travel \ \ X - state trooper.

Part 2: Application

In 1986, over 15 million speeding tickets were issued,and experts estimate that over 25% of them were in error. Police have

been using radar for speed control for many years, and as the technologyhas become more complex and accurate, so has the ability to get away withthe slight infractions of the speed limits set by the government become moredifficult. In recent years, the three most damaging advances to motoristsin radar technology include: A> Instant on radar. B> K-band radar. andC> Cosine error correcting radar units.

Instant on radar. With the increase of radar receivers, or



"Detectors" on the roads, police have attempted to bypass the motoristsfirst line of defense. The most damaging advance in the war against speedingmotorists is instant on radar. The idea behind instant on radar is to makethe radar detector useless to the motorist by making his warning too late toreact to. Instant on radar was developed in early 1983, but never marketeduntil late 1984 when the michigan state troopers were equipped with the firstinstant on radar guns. It operates by deactivating the oscillator untiltriggered by the officer. When used properly and under the right trafficconditions, it is indefensible. It works like a camera, the officeroperating the radar will position himself behind a blind corner or over ahill. When the approaching car crests the hill or rounds the corner, theofficer will activate the oscillator, taking a "snapshot" of your car.As microwaves travel at the speed of light, any attempt at slowing downis futile, the officer behind the gun has your speed in less than a tenthof a second.

K-band Radar. When radar detectors were first marketed bythe markers of ESCORT, there was only one type of radar. X-band.In an attempt to increase the dwindling speeding ticket revenue, K-bandwas brought to life. K-band is a different frequency that could not bepicked up by the primitive detectors of the age. However, as thefrequency got out, the detectors adapted, and now any detector worth a dollarwill detect both X and K bands. K band is more dangerous as most K-band

guns are instant on and they have less 'Splash' and range than X-band guns.This means that a K-band signal is probably closer to you.

Cosine error correcting guns.

Cosine error was a major falling of radarin the judicial system, all readings were under question in court, theresult was a gun which will correct for cosine error by determining theangle which the radar beam "impacts" with the car. Also new in correcting cosineerror were guns with 'Speed lock on' in which the highest speed readingreceived by the gun is locked in and displayed.

Moving radar guns.

Until new developments, all radar unitshad to remain stationary as radar measures only closure speed, and not actualspeed. Moving radar ended this trend. Moving radar works like this. First the radargun determines the patrol cars speed by clocking a sign or fixedobject. The closing speed of the patrol car to the sign is subtracted fromthe now taken closing speed to the target car. Patrols speed - 60 m.p.h. Closing speed to car - 120 m.p.h. 120 m.p.h. - 60 m.p.h. = 60 m.p.h..

Part 3: Defense From the dawn of speed enforcement, motorists have soughtto defeat the laws, starting with detectors, continuing to jammers andtopping out with the new 'CHiPs detectors' The unfortunate conditionsnow favor the police and law enforcement officials with the introductionof new radar technologies such as instant on radar.

Detectors:



Radar guns are manufactured by many differentcompanies, but the primary ones are Kustom Signals, M.p.h. Industries, and Decatur. The deadliest gun now available is the HAWKmanufactured by Kustom Signals. It is the first gun capable of clockingcars moving the SAME direction as the patrol car. It has two antennas, oneforward, and one back. Like I stated before, it is also the first gun capableof detecting radar jammers. These run about 2000$

Kr-11 This gun is a two piece model which usesa weak pulse signal in the moving mode to determine the patrol car's speedwhile not triggering detectors. This gun permits a faster clocking time forinstant on moving radar, it runs about $1200

Falcon This is a hand held gun operating on K bandSmall and compact it is preferred among law enforcement radars. It runs about600$

Hr-4 Hr-8 Hr-12 400,500,750$ respectively, these are handheld radar guns made by Kustom Signals

Prices for radar units range from 250-2000$ I personally enjoy harassing that 911 who barrels by at 95 with a detector.

{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=} Picking Combination Locks {=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}

Ok, so ya say ya wanna learn how to pick combination locks...If you do thisright, it will help you. First of all, let me tell you about the set-up of alock. When the lock is locked, there is a curved piece of metal wedged insidethe little notch on the horseshoe shaped bar that is pushed in to the lock when

you lock it. To free this wedge, you usually have to turn the lock to thedesired combination and the pressure on the wedge is released therefore lettingthe lock open. I will now tell you how to make a pick so you can open a lockwithout having to waste all that time turning the combination (this also helpswhen ya don't know the combination to begin with). First of all, ya need tofind a hairpin. What's a hairpin? Well, just ask your mom. She will have one.If she asks what its for, say ya gotta hold something together... If she saysuse a rubberband or use a paperclip, tell her to fuck off and die and then go tothe store and rip off a box of 50 or so. Once you have your hair pin (make sureits metal), take the ridged side and break it off right before it starts to makea U-turn onto the straight side. The curved part can now be used as a handle.Now, using a file, file down the other end until it is fairly thin. You shoulddo this to many hairpins and file them so they are of different thicknesses so

you can pick various locks. Some locks are so cheap that ya don't even haveta file! But most are not. Ok, now you have a lock pick. Now if ya haven'tfigured it out, here's how ya use it. You look at a lock to see which side thelock opens from. If you can't tell, you will just have to try both sides.When ya find out what side it opens from, take the lock pick and stick the filed end into the inside of the horseshoe-shaped bar on whichever side thelock opens from. Now, put pressure on the handle of the lock pick (pushingdown, into the crack) and pull the lock up and down. The lock will then openbecause the pick separated the wedge and the notch allowing us thieves to openit. Don't say bullshit until you've tried it. Because I have gotten lots of



beer money from doin' this to fellow students' gym lockers. Also, thistechnique works best on American locks. I have never picked a Master lockbefore because of the shape a pressure of the wedge but if anyone does it, letme know how long it took. Also, the Master lock casing is very tight so yacan't get the pick in. So, if you're locking something valuable up, use aMaster, cuz at least ya know I won't be picking it and I'm sure there aren'tthat many that could. And when I say pick, i don't mean lighting a stick ofdynamite next to the lock, picking is opening a lock without using force, makinga substitute key, etc...

Picking Master Locks

Have you ever tried to impress your friends by picking one of those Mastercombination locks and failed? Well then read on. The Master lock company hasmade this kind of lock with a protection scheme. If you pull the handle of ithard, the knob won't turn. That was their biggest mistake...... Ok, now on toit.

1st number. Get out any of the Master locks so you know what's going on.1: The handle part (the part that springs open when you get the combination),pull on it, but not enough so that the knob won't move. 2: While pulling on itturn the knob to the left until it won't move any more. Then add 5 to thisnumber. Congradulations, you now have the 1st number.

2nd number. (a lot tougher) Ok, spin the dial around a couple of times,then go to the 1st number you got, then turn it to the right, bypassing the 1stnumber once. WHEN you have bypassed. Start pulling the handle and turning it.It will eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the groove pull onit and turn the knob. If it is loose go to the next groove; if it's stiff yougot the second number.

3rd number: After getting the 2nd, spin the dial, then enter the 2 numbers,then after the 2nd, go to the right and at all the numbers pull on it. The lockwill eventually open if you did it right. If can't do it the first time, bepatient, it takes time.

---------------------------------------- PYROTECHNICAL DELIGHTS---------------------------------------- MANY OF YOU OUT THERE PROBABLY HAVEFANTASIES OF REVENGE AGAINSTTEACHERS,PRINCIPALS AND OTHER PEOPLE WHO ARE JUSTASSHOLES. DEPENDING ON YOUR LEVELOFHATRED OF THIS PERSON I WOULD ADVISE THAT YOU DO SOME OF THESEFOLLOWING

EXPERIMENTS:

(1) POURING DISHSOAP INTO THE GAS TANK OF YOUR ENEMY- MANY OF YOUALREADYKNOW THAT GASOLINE + DISHSOAP(E.G. JOY, PALMOLIVE, ETC.) FORM A MIXTURECALLEDNAPALM. NOW NAPALM IS A JELLY-LIKE SUBSTANCE USED IN BOMBS,FLAMETHROWERS,ETC. NOW YOU CAN ONLY GUESS WHAT THIS MIXTURE WOULD DO TO SOMEONE'S FUELLINE!

(2) SPREADING DIRTY MOTOR OIL/CASTOR OIL ON SOMEONE'S EXHAUST PIPE-



WHEN THE EXHAUST PIPE HEATS UP(AND IT WILL!!)THE MOTOR OIL OR CASTOR OILON THE PIPE WILL CAUSE THICK, DISGUSTING SMOKE TO OOZE FORTH FROM THEBACK OF THAT CAR. WHO KNOWS MAYBE HE/SHE MIGHT BE PULLED OVER AND GIVEN A TICKET!!

FUN WITH ALARMS A FACT I FORGOT TO MENTION IN MY PREVIOUS ALARM ARTICLES IS THAT ONE CANALSOUSE POLYURETHANE FOAM IN A CAN TO SILENCE HORNS AND BELLS. YOU CANPURCHASETHIS AT ANY HARDWARE STORE AS INSULATION. IT IS EASIER TO HANDLE ANDDRIESFASTER. MANY PEOPLE THAT TRAVEL CARRY A POCKET ALARM WITH THEM. THIS ALARM ISA SMALLDEVICE THAT IS HUNG AROUND THE DOOR KNOB, AND WHEN SOMEONE TOUCHES THEKNOB HISBODY CAPACITANCE SETS OFF THE ALARM. THESE NASTY NUISENCES CAN BE FOUNDBYWALKING DOWN THE HALLS OF A HOTEL AND TOUCHING ALL THE DOOR KNOBS VERYQUICKLY.

IF YOU HAPPEN TO CHANCE UPON ONE, ATTACH A 3' LENGTH OF WIRE OR OTHERMETALOBJECT TO THE KNOB. THIS WILL CAUSE THE SLEEPING BUSINESS PIG INSIDE TOTHINKSOMEONE IS BREAKING IN AND CALL ROOM SERVICE FOR HELP. ALL SORTS OF FUNANDGAMES WILL ENSUE. SOME HIGH-SECURITY INSTALATIONS USE KEYPADS JUST LIKE TOUCH-TONE PADS (AREGISTERED TRADE MARK OF BELL SYSTEMS) TO OPEN LOCKS OR DISARM ALARMS.MOSTUSE THREE OR FOUR DIGITS. TO FIGURE OUT THE CODE, WIPE THE KEY-PAD FREE FROMALL FINGERPRINTS. AFTER IT HAD BEEN USED JUST APPLY FINGER PRINT DUST AND

ALLFOUR DIGITS WILL BE MARKED. NOW ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS FIGURE OUT THEORDER. IF YOU WANT TO HAVE SOME FUN WITH A KEYPAD, TRY PRESSING THE * AND # ATTHESAME TIME. MANY UNITS USE THIS AS A PANIC BUTTON. THIS WILL BRING THEOWNERAND THE COPS RUNNING AND EVERYONE WILL HAVE A GOOD TIME. NEVER TRY TOREMOVETHEM FROM THE WALL, AS THEY ALL HAVE TAMPER SWITCHES. ON THE SUBJECT OF HOLDUPS, MOST PLACES (INCLUDING SUPER-MARKETS, LIQUER

STORES,ETC.) HAVE WHAT IS KNOWN AS A MONEY CLIP. THESE LITTLE NASTIES ARE PLACEDATTHE BOTTOM OF A MONEY DRAWER AND WHEN THE LAST FEW BILLS ARE WITH-DRAWN ASWITCH CLOSES AND SETS THE ALARM OFF. THAT'S WHY WHEN YOU MAKE YOURWITHDRAWLIT'S BEST TO HELP YOUR-SELF SO YOU CAN CHECK FOR THESE LITTLE NASTIES. IF YOUFIND THEM, MERELY INSERT ONES UNDERNEATH THE PILE OF TWENTIES, AND THENPULL



OUT THE TWEN-TIES, LEAVING THE ONE-DOLLAR BILL BEHIND TO PREVENT THECIRCUITFROM CLOSING. IF YOU SHOPLIFT AND SEE CAMERAS, LOOK AT THE BRAND. IF IT IS SURVEILLANCEVIDEO SYSTEMS (SVS) YOU NEED NOT WORRY. THESE CAMERAS LOOK REALISTIC TOTHEPOINT OF PILOT LIGHTS, COAX, AND SCANNING. HOWEVER, THEY ARE ONLY EMPTYBOXES.

Preparation of TNT 1. Take two beakers. In the first prepare a solution of 76 percent sulfuricacid, 23 percent nitric acid and 1 percent water. In the other beaker, prepareanother solution of 57 percent nitric acid and 43 percent sulfuric acid(percentages are on a weight ratio rather than volume). 2. Ten grams of the first solutions are poured into an empty beaker and placedin an ice bath. 3. Add ten grams of toluene, and stir for several minutes. 4. remove this beaker from the ice bath and gently heat until it reaches 50

degrees C. The solution is stirred constantly while being heated. 5. Fifty additional grams of the acid, from the first beaker, are added and thetemperature is held for the next ten minutes, and an oily liquid will begin toform on the top of the acid. 6. After 10 or 12 minutes, the acid solution is returned to the ice bath, andcooled to 45 begrees C> when reaching this temperature, the oily liquid willsink and collect at the bottom of the beaker. At this point, the remaining acidsolution should be drawn off, by using a syringe. 7. Fifty more grams of the first acid solution are added to the oily liquidwhile the temperature is SLOWLY being raised to 83 degrees C. After this

temperature is reached, it is maintaind for a full half hour. 8. At the end of this period, he solution is allowed to cool to 60 degrees C>,and is held at this temperature for another full half hour. After this, theacid is again drawn off, leaving once more only the oily liquid at the bottem. 9. Thirty grams of sulfuric acid are added, while the oily liquid is gentlyheated to 80 degrees C. All temperature increases must be accoumplished slowlyand gently. 10.Once the desired temperature is reached, 30 grams of the second acid solutionare added, and the temperature is raised from 80 dgregrees C> to 104 degrees C.,and is held for three hours.

11.After this three hour period, the mixture is lowered to 100 degrees C. andheld there for a half hour. 12.After this half hour, the oil is removed form the acid and washed withboiling water. 13.After the washing with boiling water, while being stired constantly, the TNTwill begin to solidify.



14.When the solidification has started, cold water is added to the beaker, sothat the TNT will form into pellets. Once this is done, you have a good qualityTNT. NOTE: the temperatures used in the preparation of TNT are EXACT, and must beused as such. DO NOT estimate or use aproximations. Buy a good centigradethermometer.

TIME DELAYED CHEMICAL FUSE--------------------------1) Put 1 teaspoon full of of potassium permanganate in a tin can. 2) add glycerine 3) wait 3-4 min. 4) get the hell out.. the stuff will smoke, then burst into flame.. ** potasium permanganate stains like iodine but worse [it's purple] ** the reaction will spatter a bit, it can be messy...

** it doesn't matter if the amounts are uneven [ie. 1 part to 3 parts]

ALUMINUM KILLER (OVERNIGHT)--------------- silver iodide --> aluminum iodide + aluminum + silver

..or..

AgI + Al --> Ag + AlI

ALUMINUM IODIDE is very hydroscopic -- it will absorb water [it will evenabsorb water out of the air!] SILVER IODIDE eats through aluminum -- the resulting aluminum iodide will>disolve itself< as it aborbs H20 from the air!The final result is aluminum with a wet hole in it. [the wetness is AlIsolution]

Natural gas flows through millions of miles of piplines in the U.S. Onecharge will blow up a gas pipeline along miles of its length since theair let into the pipeline by the explosion will cause secondary explosions.

Of 65 pipelines,24 carry 97% of the gas which accounts for more than one-thirdof the nation's total energy supply. Only 4 pipelines connects the gasfields in the South and Southwest to New York and Los Angeles. Maps of thelines can be obtanied from the Department of Energy and by studying industryjournals.

Oil pipelines can be destroyed by penetrating the central pipeline controlsystem. In one Southern city, which controls oil movement in several states.

Yikes! And contrary to the argument advanced by some self-styled specialistsand the news media that few possess the technological expertise to use



weapons of mass destruction, it is much much easier than you think.

There's a book giving location,published in the New York Times,Feb 1979,two large map pinpointing every power station and transmission line fromWashington to the Canadian border. Blowing up some of these stations andlines would wipe out the electrical supply of the East Coast.

For another example, the a Book called 'Basement Nukes, $6.95, bysome guy named, Charles Clark. Title of the book is : Technological Terrorism $10.00 Clark shows how they canb be readily obtained by theft from inefficentlyguarded nuclear plants and armories. Both of the above mentioned booksare readily available to anyone with the buck, how sad,huh...shit!

Technological Terrorism is a nightmare scenario,and a serious warning toevery one of us.

That really screws up the old head.

EXPLOSIVES AND INCENDIARIES

INTRODUCTION: The trouble with text books on chemistry and explosives is

the attitude with which they are written. They don't say, "Now I knowyou would like to blow holy hell out of something just for the fun of it sohere is how to whip up something in your kitchen to do it". They tell youhow Dupont does it or how the anchient Chineese did it but not how you can doit with the resourses and materials available to you. Even army manuals onfield expedient explosives are almost useless because they are just outlineswritten with the understanding that an instructor is going to fill in theblanks. It is a fun game to search out the materials that can be put togetherto make something go "boom". You can find what you need in grocery stores,hardware stores, and farm supplies. An interesting point to remember is thatit is much easier to make a big explosion than a small one. It is verydifficult for a home experimenter to make a firecracker, but a bomb capableof blowing the walls out of a building is easy. The king of explosives for the

do-it-yourselfer is black powder. It is easy to make and when properly confinedis capable of devestating power. CLOSEINFORM ootable powder used forspraying. It is cheap and works well. Some drug stores sell sulfur under thename Flowers of Sulfur. If you use Nitrate of Soda, it will be in the formof prills (little round beads). Bake it in an oven at 250 degrees for 10-15minutes to drive out the moisture. Then dump a cup or two into a blender andswitch it on. It will do a beautiful job of reducing it to powder. Buy a bagof charcoal briquettes at a grocery store. Put a few briquettes in a ragand pound with hammer. Dump the result into the blender, grind, then strainthrough a tea strainer. Mix by volume: 6 parts potassium or Sodium Nitrate, 2parts powdered charcoal, 1 part sulfur. This mixture will burn if ignited andwill explode if ignited while tightly confined. It can be greatly improved,however, by processing it as follows: Moisten with water until it will stick

together when pinched between thumb and finger. Press it into a disposablealuminum pie pan. Bake in a preheated oven at 250 degrees for about 30minutes--get it totally dry. Grind into as fine a powder as possible. A mortarand pestle is best. If you use a blender at this point, there is adanger of explosion. It is not very sensative to friction or impact, but isvery sensative to sparks. If you followed these directions, you shouldhave a fine slate-grey powder.

When baking black powder, remember to preheat the oven. Place your pie panapproximately in the center of the oven. Do not set it on the bottom of



the oven. These warnings are to prevent hot spots that could ignite the powdercausing a fire or explosion. Something went wrong once when my father-in-lawwas doing this and it blew the door right off the oven. His training inmilitary demolitions included field expedient explosives. The point is thatthings can go wrong even when you know what you are doing. Protect yourself atall times. Use common sense. Wear safety glasses; don't stand in front ofoven, etc. HOW TO MAKE BLACKMATCH FUSE: Take a flat piece of plastic or metal(brass or aluminum are easy to work with and won't rust). Drill a 1/16thinch hole through it. This is your die for sizing the fuse. You can make fusesas big as you want, but this is the right size for the pipe bomb I will begetting to later. To about 1/2 cup of black powder add water to make a thinpaste. Add 1/2 teaspoon of corn starch. Cut some one foot lengths of cottonthread. Use cotton, not silk or thread made from synthetic fibers. Put thesetogether until you have a thickness that fills the hole in the die but canbe drawn through very easily. Tie your bundle of threads together at one end.Separate the threads and hold the bundle over the black powder mixture.Lower the threads with a circular motion so they start curling onto themixture. Press them under with the back of a teaspoon and continue loweringthem so they coil into the paste. Take the end you are holding and thread itthrough the die. Pull it through smoothly in one long motion. To dryyour fuse, lay it on a piece of aluminum foil and bake it in your 250degree oven or tie it to a grill in the oven and let it hang down. The fusemust be baked to make it stiff enough for the uses it will be put to later.Air drying will not do the job. If you used Sodium Nitrate, it will not even

dry completely at room temperatures. Cut the dry fuse with sissors into 2inch lengths and store in an air tight container. Handle this fuse carefuly toavoid breaking it. You can also use a firecracker fuse if you have anyavailable. The fuses can usually be pulled out without breaking. To giveyourself some running time, you will be extending these fuses (blackmatch orfirecracker fuse) with sulfured wick. HOW TO MAKE SULFURED WICK: Use heavycotton string about 1/8th inch in diameter. You can find some at a gardensupply for tieing up your tomatoes. Be sure it's cotton. You can test it bylighting one end. It sould continue to burn after the match is removed andwhen blown out will have a smoldering coal on the end. Put some sulfur in asmall container like a small pie pan and melt it in the oven at 250 degrees.It will melt into a transparent yellow liquid. If it starts turning brown, itis too hot. Coil about a one foot length of string into it. The melted

sulfur will soak in quickly. When saturated, pull it out and tie it up tocool and harden. It can be cut to desired lengths with sissors. 2 inchesis about right. These wicks will burn slowly with a blue flame and do notblow out easily in a moderate wind. They will not burn through a hole in ametal pipe, but are great for extending your other fuse. They will not throwoff sparks. Blackmatch generates sparks which can ignite it along its lengthcausing unpredictable burning times. Now you have the basic ingredients toshake the earth like thunder. In the next installment or two, I will tellyou how to put it all together to do just that. You will find that you havebaked a very deadly pie. I have twice been accused of setting off dynamite inthe woods. The explosive power of your little grey powder may exceed yourexpectations, so choose your testing ground with care.

HOW TO MAKE ROCKET FUEL:

This is easy to make and fun to play with. Mix equal parts by volume Potassiumor Sodium Nitrate and granulated sugar. Pour a big spoonful of this into a pile.Stick a piece of blackmatch fuse into it; light; and step back. This is alsoa very hot incendiary. A little imagination will suggest a lot of experimentsfor this. ANOTHER ROCKET FUEL: Mix equal parts by volume of zinc dust andsulfur. Watch out if you experiment with this. It goes off in a sudden flash.It is not a powerful explosive, but is violent stuff even when not confined



because of its fast burning rate. --- As I continue from this point some of theingredients are going to be harder to get without going through a chemicalsupply. I try to avoid this. I happen to know that B. Prieser Scientifichas been instructed by the police to send them the names of anyone buyingchemicals in certain combinations. For example, if a person were to buySulfuric acid, Nitric acid and Toluene (the makings for TNT) in one order thepolice would be notified. I will do the best I can to tell you how to make thethings you need from commonly available materials, but I don't want to leaveout something really good because you might have to scrounge for an ingredient.I am guessing you would prefer it that way.

HOW TO MAKE CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID FROM BATTERY ACID

Go to an auto supply store and ask for "a small battery acid". This should onlycost a few dollars (about 4 dollars). What you will get is about a gallon ofdilute sulfuric acid. Put a pint of this into a heat resistant glass container.The glass pitchers used for making coffee are perfect. Do not use a metalcontainer. Use an extension cord to set up a hotplate out doors. Boil the aciduntil white fumes appear. As soon as you see the white fumes, turn off thehot plate and let the acid cool. Pour the now concentrated acid into a glasscontainer. The container must have a glass stopper or plastic cap -- nometal. It must be air tight. Otherwize, the acid will quickly absorb moisturefrom the air and become diluted. Want to know how to make a time bomb that

doesn't tick and has no wires or batteries? Hold on to your acid andfollow me into the next installment.

HOW TO MAKE A CHEMICAL TIME DELAY FUSE:To get an understanding of how this is going to work, mix up equal parts byvolume Potassium chlorate and granulated sugar. Pour a spoonful ofthe mixture in a small pile and make a depression in the top with the end of aspoon. Using a medicine dropper, place one drop of concentrated sulfuric acidin the depression and step back. It will snap and crackle a few times andthen burst into vigorous flames. To make the fuse, cut about 2 inches off aplastic drinking straw. Tamp a small piece of cotton in one end. On top ofthis put about an inch of the clorate/sugar mixture. Now lightly tampin about a quarter inch of either glass wool or asbestos fibers. Secure this

with the open end up and drop in 3 or 4 drops of sulfuric acid. After a fewminutes the acid will soak through the fibers and ignite the mixture. The timedelay can be controled by the amount of fiber used and by varying how tightlyit is packed. Don't use cotton for this. The acid will react with cottonand become weakened in the process. By punching a hole in the side of thestraw, a piece of blackmatch or other fuse can be inserted and used to setoff the device of your choice. Potassium chlorate was very popularwith the radical underground. It can be used to make a wide variety ofexplosives and incendiaries, some of them extremely dangerous to handle. Theradicals lost several people that way.

HOW TO MAKE AN ELECTRIC FUSE:Take a flashlight bulb and place it glass tip down on a file. Grind it down on

the file until there is a hole in the end. Solder one wire to the case of thebulb and another to the center conductor at the end. Fill the bulb with blackpowder or powdered match head. One or two flashlight batteries will heat thefillament in the bulb causing the powder to ignite.

ANOTHER ELECTRIC FUSE:Take a medium grade of steel wool and pull a strand out of it. Attach itto the ends of two pieces of copper wire by wrapping it around a few turnsand then pinch on a small piece of solder to bind the strand to the wire.You want about 1/2 inch of steel strand between the wires. Number 18 or 20 is a



good size wire to use. Cut a 1/2 by 1 inch piece of cardboard of the typeused in match covers. Place a small pile of powdered match head in thecenter and press it flat. place the wires so the steel strand is on top ofand in contact with the powder. Sprinkle on more powder to cover thestrand. The strand should be surounded with powder and not touching anythingelse except the wires at its ends. Place a piece of blackmatch in contactwith the powder. Now put a piece of masking tape on top of the lot, andfold it under on the two ends. Press it down so it sticks all around thepowder. The wires are sticking out on one side and the blackmatch on theother. A single flashlight battery will set this off.

ELECTRIC FUSE # 3:An excellent electric fuse can be bought ready made at hobby and toy stores.They are sold for setting off model rockets.

How to get Revenge on Someone ----------------------------- Everyone has an enemy that they would like to seek revenge on without thevictim knowing who the aggressor is. Here are ways that have been proveneffective in the field of harrasing and/or annoying someone.

Call the news papers, and adverise an arctile similar to this: "You toocan make calls free through MCI, ITT, and other long distance services justby making a local call. For more information, send a self-adressed

stamped envlope to:(fill in name and adress with zip code)" After this hasappeared in the papers, inform your local FBI agent or police officer ofhis ad. You can also advertise an ad like this: "Apple //e, 128k, 2 diskdrives, Amdek Color 3 Monitor, Hayes Smartmodem 1200, and much more. $750or best offer. (phone number)".

Another prank is to call house at all hours, and post on all boards that anew bulletin board is opening up at his number. Get everyone you know tocall him at all times (preferably late at night. Call answering machines,and give the persons number and tell them to call right away. Also duringthe day you can look up people in the phone that have a "Mr. and Mrs." there,and the wife will probably be home, but not the husband, so tell the wife totell the husband to call your victim as soon as possible and give number.

Call Taxi's, Exterminators, Pizza deliverys, Catorers, Garages, Plumers,Dog Funeral Homes, Flower and Ballon deliverys, Moving Services, Singingand Striptease telegrams, Junkyards to remove garbage, report robberies andfires at his/her house, Locksmiths, order oil from several companies(heating oil), order family portraits taken at their home, sign him/her upfor the army, call realtors to put house for sale, Septic cleaners, houseremodelers, call Bell + tell you are having with phone, call cable company,and call phone sex lines that call back and give his number to call back.Order plane tickets, send brochures of all shit like colleges, beauty schools,and all other things that send info. on their place, and adress it to:"DICK" and his last name.

To have a little phun, drop by his house one day, tie a chain to the back

of you truck/car and the other end to the victims mailbox. Take off, and nomore mailbox. Also, throw eggs at house and cars, piss on cars and is gastank of cars. Get 300 sheets+ of paper and put in a paper shreader and afterit is in 1" by 1" pieces, throw all over his lawn in various places.Another fun thing is to bring along a baseball bat and knock the shit outof his mailbox. Send mail with not enough postage to them, and wrap upbricks and rocks and put no return adress on them and drop in a mailbox.Get a library card out in his name, and take out books and don't return them.Lay tacks on either side of tires of his car so either way he will run overthem. Take weed killer, and pour it on his flower garden or put your



THE LONG END OF THE ALLEN WRENCH AT A SLIGHT ANGLE..(NOT 90 DEG.)IT SHOULD LOOK SOMETHING LIKE THIS:

#1 \\ \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ (THIS IS THE HANDLE \\\ THAT WAS ALREADY \\\ (HERE.) \\\ \\\ \\\

NOW, TAKE YOUR PICK TO A GRINDER OR A FILE AND SMOOTH THE END(#1) UNTIL IT'S ROUNDED SO IT WON'T HANG INSIDE THE LOCK. TESTYOUR TOOL OUT ON DOORKNOBS AT YOUR HOUSE TO SEE IF IT WILL SLIDEIN AND OUT SMOOTHLY. NOW, THIS IS WHERE THE SCREWDRIVER COMES IN.IS IT SMALL ENOUGH FOR IT AND YOUR PICK TO BE USED IN THE SAMELOCK AT THE SAME TIME, ONE ABOVE THE OTHER ?

LETS HOPE SO, BECAUSE THAT'S THE ONLY WAY YOUR GONNA OPEN IT.

IN THE COMING INSTRUCTIONS, PLEASE REFER TO THIS CHART OF THEINTERIOR OF A LOCK:

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX| K # # # # # # | E # # # # | Y * * | H * * * * * * | O | L | EXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX|

#= UPPER TUMLER PIN*= LOWER TUMLER PINX= CYLINDER WALL

(THIS IS A GREATLY SIMPLIFIED DRAWING)

THE OBJECT IS TO PRESS THE PIN UP SO THAT THE SPACE BETWEEN THEUPPER PIN AND THE LOWER PIN IS LEVEL WITH THE CYLINDER WALL. NOW,IF YOU PUSH A PIN UP, ITS TENDANCY IS TO FALL BACK DOWN, RIGHT ?

THAT IS WHERE THE SCREWDRIVER COMES IN.

INSERT THE SCREWDRIVER INTO THE SLOT AND TURN. THIS TENSION WILLKEEP THE "SOLVED" PINS FROM FALLING BACK DOWN. NOW, WORK FROM THEBACK OF THE LOCK TO THE FRONT, AND WHEN YOU'RE THROUGH.....

THERE WILL BE A CLICK, THE SCREWDRIVER WILL TURN FREELY, AND THEDOOR WILL OPEN. DON'T GET DISCOURAGE ON YOUR FIRST TRY! IT WILLPROBABLY TAKE YOU ABOUT 20-30 MINUTES YOUR FIRST TIME. AFTER THATYOU WILL QUICKLY IMPROVE WITH PRACTICE.

THIS IS BY NO MEANS THE MOST EFFICIENT WAY OF ENTERING A HOUSE.



IF YOU WOULD LIKE ANOTHER ITEM OR TWO DEVOTED TO THESE OTHERWAYS, LET THE SYSOP KNOW.

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ BLOWING UP A CAR $$ ------- -- - --- $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

The best methods of blowing up a car requires getting under the hood.Explosives are placed as near the occupants as possilbe.

The fuse, homemade, commercial or safetey, is wrapped a few turns aroundthe exhause manifold. After a few minutes on the road the exhaust manifoldgets almost red hot and ignites the fuse.

This way is more certain than wiring the car because since it blows up onthe road the wreck will do the victem in even if the blast doesn't. Besides,if the intended victim is a passenger instead of the driver, the driver maystart the engine before the passenger gets into the car... You can see howembarrassing that would be to the bomber, can't you?

Old-fashioned types, like the Mafia, love to wire cars. They are too set inthier ways to change and besides, they get a charge out of seeing a car blow

up before thier eyes instead of imagining it going to hell on the road. They usually use about three sticks of dynamite, two lengths of electricwire with two alligator clips for quick attachment, and an electric blastingcap. The cap is stuck into a dynamite stick and its two wires are connectedto the two electric wires. Then one alligator clip is clamped to the inputside of the coil and the other is fastened to any metal surface in thecar's frame as a ground.

This is very simple and you'd think anyone could do it. But sure enough,there are always morons who will attach one clamp to a spark plug and one to aground. This usually results in misfires and no end of frustrations.

B. AMMONAL: AMMONAL IS A MIXTURE OF AMMONIUM NITRATE (A STRONG OXIDIZER) WITHALUMINUM POWDER (THE 'FUEL' IN THIS CASE). I AM NOT SURE OF THE % COMPOSITION FORAMMONAL, SO YOU MAY WANT TO EXPERIMENT A LITTLE USING SMALL AMOUNTS.

C. CHEMICALLY IGNITED EXPLOSIVES:

1. A MIXTURE OF 1 PART POTASSIUM CHLORATE TO 3 PARTS TABLE SUGAR(SUCROSE) BU

RNS FIERCELY AND BRIGHTLY (SIMILAR TO THE BURNING OF MAGNESIUM) WHEN 1DROP OFCONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID IS PLACED ON IT. WHAT OCCURS IS THIS: WHEN THEACIDIS ADDED IT REACTS WITH THE POTASSIUM CHLORATE TO FORM CHLORINE DIOXIDE,WHICHEXPLODES ON FORMATION, BURNING THE SUGAR AS WELL. 2. USING VARIOUS CHEMICALS, I HAVE DEVELOPED A MIXTURE THAT WORKS VERYWELL FOR IMITATING VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS. I HAVE GIVEN IT THE NAME 'MPG VOLCANITE'



MIGHT ASSUME THAT IT COULD BE FORMED BY ADDING FULMINIC ACID TO MERCURY.THIS IS SOMEWHAT DIFFICULT SINCE FULMINIC ACID IS VERY UNSTABLE AND CANNOT BEPURCHASED. I DID SOME RESEARCH AND FIGURED OUT A WAY TO MAKE IT WITHOUT FULMINICACID.YOU ADD 2 PARTS NITRIC ACID TO 2 PARTS ALCOHOL TO 1 PART MERCURY. THIS ISTHEORETICAL (I HAVE NOT YET TRIED IT) SO PLEASE, IF YOU TRY THIS, DO IT IN VERY* SMALL AMOUNTS AND TELL ME THE RESULTS.

1.quickie...

take organic pool chlorine and mix it with vegtable shortening and put itsomeplace you don't like. it reacts by itself to produce a very noxious whitesmoke and heat. 2.a pipe bomb (dangerous)

take a pipe crimp (closed at one end) and pack it 3/4 full of parafin. (orany other semi-solid with about the samebasic chemical structure) poke anumber of holes through the length of the parafin. on top of this put a verythin steel (or other metal of that sort) wafer, make double damn sure** that

it fits tightly all the way around. on top of this put some high concentrationhcl (or similar acid). close the top now, stand it on end (parafin end down),and get the f*ck away. you should have about 2-5 minutes depending on thethickness of the wafer. watch out for shrappnel.

3. snowball...

take ammonium iodide, flour, & water and form this into a snowball.leave this 'snowball' somewhere where it will do neat stuff when it dries out.(substituting some magnesium flash powder for some (not all) of that flourhelps things a bit.) +-------------------------------------+

! H O W T O M A K E D R U G S !+-------------------------------------+

IN NO WAY AM I RESPONSIBLE FOR FOR ANY INJURIES CAUSED BY THE USE/MISUSEOF THESE DRUGS. YOU SHOULD TREAT THESE DRUGS LIKE ALCOHOL. USE THEM ONLYASAN ADDED EXPERIENCE IN LIFE, RATHER THAN AN ESCAPE.

THESE RECIPES ARE ALL FOUND IN A BOOK WHICH HAS RELIABLE SOURCES. ALLSHOULDWORK IF MADE PROPERLY.

+-------------------------------------+

! MAKING L.S.D. IN YOUR OWN KITCHEN !+-------------------------------------+

1] GRIND UP 150 GRAMS OF MORNING GLORY SEEDS OR BABY HAWAIIAN WOOD ROSESEEDS.2] IN 130 C.C. OF PETROLEUM ETHER SOAK THE SEEDS FOR 2 DAYS.3] FILTER THE SOLUTION THROUGH A TIGHT SCREEN.4] THROW AWAY LIQUID, AND ALLOW SEEDS MUSH TO DRY.5] FOR 2 DAYS ALLOW THE MUSH TO SOAK IN 110 C.C. OF WOOD ALCOHOL.6] FILTER THE SOLUTION AGAIN, SAVING THE LIQUID AND LABELING IT '1'



--> TOAD SKINS? YOU'RE CRAZY!!

1] COLLECT 5-10 TOADS2] KILL THEM AS PAINLESSLY AS POSSIBLE AND SKIN THEM AS SOON AS POSSIBLE!3] ALLOW SKINS TO DRY ON THE FRIDGE FOR 4 TO 5 DAYS, OR UNTI THEY ARE BRITTLE.4] CRUSH INTO A POWDER AND SMOKE. DUE TO THE BAD TASTE, MIX IT WITH MINT OR SOMETHING ELSE.

PLEASE REMEMBER THAT THESE THESE DRUGS SHOULD ONLY BE USED FOR ANADDITIONALEXPERIENCE IN LIFE. DO NOT USE THEM AS AN ESCAPE, OR JUST FOR THE HELL OFIT! SEE YA, AND HAVE FUN??!!..??!!..

*********************************** T R I P W I R E S ***********************************

Well first of all I reccommend that you read the file on my boardabout landmines... If you can't then here is the conecpt. You can use anm-80,h-100, blockbuster or any other type of elxplose that will light witha fuse. Now the way this works is if you have a 9volt batery, from a

radio ctlred car or what ever and get either a solor igniter (preferably)or some steel wool you can create a remote ignition system. What youdo it set up a schematic like this.

------------------>+ batery steel || ->- batery wool || / :==:--- <--fuse \ || / ---- spst switch--\

So when the switch is on the currnet will flow through the steel wool origniter and heat up causing the fuse to light.

Note: For use with steel wool try it first and get a really thinpeice of wire and pump the current through it to make sure it will heatup to light the explosive.

Now the thing to do is plant your explosive whereever you want it tobe but bury it and cover the wires obviously... Now take a this wirefishing line is good about 20 lb. test and tie one end of the wireto a secure object. Have your switch secured to seomthing to and make aloop on the other end on the line. Put the loop around the switch suchthat when pulled it will pull the switch and set off the explosive.

to ignite the explosive... The thing to do is to experiment with thisand find your best method... Let me know on any good kills, or new

techniques... On my board...

**************************************** ** Revenge: Don't get mad - Get even ** ** subtitled: Fun Things To Do ****************************************



This isn't a death and Destruction file. I'm not telling losers how to causethermite reactions in chemistry class or make neeto pipe bombs to blow up thatguy who keeps bugging you.This is from a book by George Hayduke. It describes a variety of ways to getback at people who cause you distress. The book has contains a lot of tips oncausing expensive damage to "marks". Well, I picked the good ones. Ones thatdon't cause a lot of expense, in currency that is. Well, I hope you enjoy.Get back at the losers using the system. Sort of like piracy and phreaking.***************************************In a car with automatic transmission, switch the #1 and #8 wires on thedistributer cap. This will allegedly allow the car to operate in Neutral andPark, but the engine mysteriously dies in Drive.Castor Oil squirted into the tailpipe of a car, will cause a large amount ofsmoke. Just the thing to help nervous drivers.If you can get a bank account number for a person, truly wonderful things canhappen. Depositing one penny every day can get the employees very pissed.It happens that given a few hundred wanted posters, one will look like you. ORanybody else you can imagine. Close anyway. Think of all the bounty huntersjust waiting to claim their reward.Place an ad in a paper for Male Secretarys only. $11 an hour, must bephysically attractive, gentle, and other related social traits. This is foranybody who has an office. Give the time to show up one half hour beforethe normal opening hour. For example, if the office opens at 9:00, put the timeto be 8:30. All these faggots will show up and start bitching at each other and

your loser.Run an ad in the local paper with the following message."I need all used christmas trees. Please leave them on my lawn, and I'll pay$5 for each one." then leave the losers address. The paper will take your $and print the ad without thinking.If you know the guy is going to throw a party, arrange for him to find out thatsomebody was going to crash his party, dressed up like cops. Then call the copstelling them of a real rowdy party going on.If your college uses computers to handle admissions, try this. Fill out coursewithdrawl forms in the losers name. Then enter them, they probably won't check.The guy will go the entire block unknowing, then when grades are posted."Where are mine?" "Why didn't I get grades?"Call your colleges administration, tell them you are the undertaker of your

losers hometown. He just died, please take him off your records, records willfollow. Then call the parents. He just died in a fraternity accident. This willwork better if the guy decides to skip a week or so of classes.Instead of credit card fraud, just call up the company and tell them that youjust lost your cards. You name? Why it's (insert loser)If you want, advertise the losers phone number as a Dial A Joke. For bigots,Dial A Black, etc.If you dislike a fast food place with a drive thru, try this. Order everythingyou can think of. Then just don't go to the window. Do it during dinner hours.Or, order a normal sized meal, but with extra helpings of mustard. Then thenext car will try the food, then freak out at the joint.Garage door openers often have dip switches that can be changed to othercombinations. The cheaper the model, the better. Sears sells just the unit.

Say you broke yours or something. Then change the settings.Wax crayons tossed into a wash do wonders to whites or anything else. There is a whole section of phun things to do with a phone.Call in a bomb threat to a school or something, then leave the handset offhook.Of course, do this only at the losers house. Someone will visit.Call Ma Bell, and report that your loser is using Blue Boxes. Tell them it isyour civic duty... Don't do this to someone who knows what they are though.The phone co doesn't believe in innocence.Ads placed in papers saying that (insert loser) will sell YOU! the plans to a



device enabling inexpensive calls. Mention that you keep no records.If you are getting back at somebody with a multi-line system, this is good.Place a large magnet where the line comes in. When one phone rings, they all doIf you can get a private minute with your marks phone, and the handset ismodular, cover the handset plug with clear nail polish. The phone rings, thenits unlimited "Hello?" "Hello?"Remove the pins from all but one of the hinges of a front door of a business.The door will work fine, for a while, then fall off. People start screaming.Add luminescent paint into the cans of someone who is painting their fence.Then, at night, it glows.Get some copper paint and paint a small line across the insulator of a sparkplug in a car. They'll never find it.If your loser gets a parking ticket, get it before he sees it. Then get a stampflicking the cops off. Send it in with no money.If you dislike a pet hater, here's one.Advertise that you(the loser) wuold like to buy all unwanted strays. $10 foreach one. Then call the SPCA, telling them that the loser wants the animals toconduct black masses and pagan rites.Laxatives slipped into dogfood does wonders.Or better yet, toss some normal meat into the dog-owners yard. Then call himup(in a disguised voice) and tell him you saw a suspicious person hangingaround the yard....Mail a letter to the Chief Executive detailing the sexual acts you(the loser)would like to commit, the Secret Service investigates this with no humor.

PA systems in department stores are great. Just walk up to a deserted unit,look around, then deliver the most disgusting statement you can think of.Call about thirty people, telling them they just won a sweepstakes. Answer thequestions, no obligation, it's just to show how generous people are. Then givethe losers phone number to call for more info.Remember two things, hot metal and hot glass do not look different from cool.(as long as it's not too hot)Western Telegram has a check on everything going through. Certain key wordstrip alarms. Guns, Drugs, Sex, Terrorist, etc all ring bells. Have fun

(*-> -------------------------------------------------------------------- <-*) Car Thrashing

(*-> -------------------------------------------------------------------- <-*) There are many ways to thrash someones car. But they basicly fall under 2 topics. These are, 1 to just fuck it up and 2, to distroy it. As long as your at it don't for get to steal the stero & speakers.

The following are type 1 tricks to pull of on someones car.

Sweet-Gas: This involves taking the gas cap off of you victums car. If it--------- is a locking cap break it off. Or you might pry it off, resort to "Jocky Boxin" by Mr. Zeek if un fimiler with these tecniqes. Once you have the gas cap off pour 4 or 5 pounds of white sugar in there gas tank. Now when the start there car up and drive away they will go about 2 miles or so then the car will crap out and they will have to pay some $'s to get it fixed.

Sweet-Oil: In this one you open there hood and pour some honey in there oil--------- spout. if yu have time you might remover the oil plug first and drain some of the oil out. I have tried this one but wasn't around to see the effects but I am sure that I did some damage.

Slow Air: Ok, sneak yp the victums car and poke a small hole some where-------- in 2 of his/her tires. They only have 1 spare. Now if the hole is small but there then there tire will go flat some where on the road. You could slice the tire so this is blows out on the road wih a rasor blade.



Cut a long and fairly deep (don't cut a hole) and peel a little bit of the rubber back and cut that off. Now very soon there tires will go flat or a possible blow out at a high speed if your lucky.

Vanishing Paint: Spead a little gas or paint thiner on the victums car--------------- and this will make his paint run and fade. Vodca will eat the paint off and so will a little 190. Eggs work great on pain if they sit there long enough.

Key Paint: Run you car keys/can opener along there car and scrach a long--------- strip off. It'll really piss 'em off and everyone can see it.

All-Lock: You go up to the dudes car, right. And then super glue the-------- the door lock and door handle where the car can't be opened.

Loose Wheel: Losen the lugs on you victums tires so that they will soon----------- fall off. This can really fuck some one up if they are cruzingwhen the tire falls off.

Ok, thats some of the begginer shit...now if your really out to get this dudetry some of these....

First, pause and take a bong hit...........

No name for this one. but where you pour oil into the engin, pour somesand, this will scar the head and pushrodes and possible scrach the fuck outof the cylinder.

Dual Nutral: This name sucks but pull the 10 bolt or what ever they have----------- there off. (On the real wheels, in the middle of the axle) Now throw some screws, blots, nuts and assorted things in there and replace the cover. At this point you could chip some of the teeth off the gears.

Un-Midaser: Crawl under there car with a rachet and losen all the nuts---------- on there exauset so that it hangs low and will fall off soon.

They will be in town and there exaust will fall off. This method also works on tranys but is a little harder to get all bolts off, but the harder you work the more you fuck them over.

Draino Bomb: (Idea from Baby Demon) Get a little plasistc orange thingy----------- that you get from you local drugest. And fill this with liquiddraino. Now re-cap and place inside vicuum gas tank. When the gs eaststhrough the plasic...look out. this has not been tried by anyone that Ipersonly know. But what the well, your a terrorists

(*-> Another way is to get a ping-pong ball and cut a small hole in it, now fill the ball up with liquid dranio and seal the hold with tape. Now drop the ball in someone gas tank and n about 40secs...BOOM!

---------------------------------------HOW TO MAKE A REALLY NICE PIPE BOMB OUT OF EVERYDAY MATERIALS.UPLOADED BY THE GRAY MOUSER..... 1) GO TO YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE STORE AND TELL THE GUY THAT IS HELPING YOUTHAT YOU WANT A PIECE OF STEEL PIPE ONE FOOT LONG. AND ALSO THAT YOU WANTTHE ENDS THREADED AND YOU ALSO WANT CAPS TO PUT ON THE END.



2) NOW GET AHOLD OF A BABYFOOD JAR. MAKE SURE THAT THE JAR WILL FIT DOWNTHE PIPE REAL EASY LIKE. FILL THE BABYJAR WITH EVERYDAY VINEGAR. MAKESURE THE TOP IS SCREWED ON REAL TIGHT. **IF IT IS LOOSE YOU WILL BLOW YOURHAND OFF** 3)NOW CAP ONE END OF YOUR PIPE WITH ONE OF THE CAPS THAT YOU SHOULD HAVEPICKED UP WITH THE PIPE. IF YOU KNOW OF SOMEONE WITH A WIELDER, HAVE HIMWIELD A BEAD AROUND THE THREADS AFTER YOU HAVE IT CAPPED. 4)PUT SOME SMALL SHARP ROCKS DOWN THE END OF THE PIPE AND THEN SLIDE THEBABYJAR DOWN INSIDE SO THE GLASS END IS AGAINST THE LITTLE ROCKS. NOWEMPTY A MEDIUM BOX OF ARM AND HAMMER BAKING SODA INTO THE PIPE. CAP THEOTHER END OF THE PIPE AND IF YOU CAN WIELD IT, THEN GO FOR IT.**BE FUCKING CAREFUL** YOU MIGHT BREAK THE JAR INSIDE AND YOU WON'TKNOW THAT YOU BROKE IT UNTIL YOU SEE YOUR HAND FLY OFF!!! 5)NOW, WHEN YOU WANT TO BLOW SOMETHING UP, JUST SMACK THE END OF THEPIPETHAT SENDS THE JAR INSIDE DOWN AGAINST THE SMALL ROCKS. OH YEAH, SMACK ITAGAINST SOME CONCREAT. THIS BREAKS THE JAR AND THE VINEGAR AND BAKINGSODA MIX TOGETHER AND BUILDS UP PRESSURE. WHEN IT GETS TO THECRITICAL POINT....WHAMMY!!!! ******IMPORTANT******

AFTER YOU HIT THE PIPE AGAINST THE GROUND, GET THE HELL RID OF IT!!!TOSS IT INTO SOMEONES CAR OR SOMEWHERE. SOMETIMES. IT TAKES FIVE MINUTSFORIT TO GO OFF, SOMETIMES TWO. BUT IT WILL GO OFF! TRUST ME! I DID THIS WHEN I WAS LIVING IN ARIZONA. MY FREIND THAT TAUGHT METHIS WAS A DEMOLITIONS EXPERT FOR THE NAVY. THE FIRST TIME I DID IT. WE TOSSED THE PIPE INTO AN OLD HOUSE AND IT BLEWALL FOUR WALLS OUT!! THE SECOND TIME WE DID IT, WE TOSSED IT INTO AN OLDCAR. AND IT PHUKING BLEW ALL FOUR DOORS OFF AND THE ROOF THREE FEET INTOTHE AIR!!!!

WHEN WE BLEW UP THE HOUSE, WE WAITED FIVE MINUTS AND I THOUGHT THAT ITWOULDN'T GO OFF. SO I CRAWLED OUT OF THE DITCH THAT WE WERE IN. WHAMMY!!JUST THEN IT WENT OFF! IT THREW ME BACK FIVE FEET BACK INTO THE DITCH! IF YOU FOLLOW ALL INSTRUCTIONS REAL CAREFULLY. THEN YOU WON'T GET HURT.

I WILL TALK TO YOU ALL LATER. AND TELL ME WHAT YOU HAVE BLOWN UP!!!

^___^ * * ^

--\ /-- "

XxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxX Xx American Dynamite xX XxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxX

Recipe:

Mix 170 parts tolulene with 100 parts acid. The acid made of 2 parts of 70%



nitric and 3 parts of 100% sulfuric. Mix below 30 degrees. Set this down for30 min. and let it separate. Take the mononitrotolulene and mix 100 part of itwith 215 parts of acid. This acid is 1 part pure nitric and 2 parts puresulfuric. Keep the temperature at 60- 70 degrees while they are slowly mixed.Raise temp to 90-100 and stir for 30 min. The dinitrotoluene is separated andmix 100 parts of this stuff with 225 parts of 20% oleum which is 100% sulfuricwith 20% extra dissolved sulfur trioxide, and 65 parts nitric acid. Heat at95 degrees for 60 min. Then at 120 degrees for 90 min.

Separate the trinitrotoluene and slosh it around in hot water. Purify thepowder by soaking it in benzyne.

Presto! American Dynamite!

============================ How to Make Ammonium Nitrate ============================

Some Militants who don't have much dynamite use ammonium nitrate. Thiscan be bought by anyone at $3.75 for and 80 pound bag. It is fertilizer.

Ammonium nitrate explodes at rates up to 14,000 feet per second. It isroughly compared to dynamite having 60% nitro.

The fertilizer grade Militants use is mixed with motor oil at the ratio ofone pint of oil to 8-1/2 pounds of ammonium nitrate. This has to be detonatedwith a stick of gelatin dynamite [I didn't say all was easy. Try to findanother file about that crap.].

Purified ammonium nitrate can be detonated with a number six dynamite cap.The pure stuff can be bought at chemical supply houses or the fertilizer gradecan be purified with distilled wood alcohol.

Put several pounds of fertilizer grade ammonium nitrate in a pan. Pour inenough wood alcohol (methanol) to cover the fertilizer. Then stir it until alot of it has dissolved. Next, let it set for a few minutes to allow the

impurities to settle to the bottom along with the undissolved ammonium nitrate. Another pan is set on some pieces of dry ice for the next step. Dry icecan be found in the business section of the phone book under "Dry Ice." Lockercompanies will sell it to anyone, cheaply and in small amounts.

The dissolved ammonium nitrate is poured into the cold pan. This is donecarefully so as to leave the impurities and undissolved ammonium nitratebehind.

The dry ice causes the purified ammonium nitrate to precipitate out of thesolution in crystals. When no more crystals are formed they are removed fromthe alcohol.

The alcohol is then poured back into the other pan and stirred to dissolveany ammonium nitrate left undissolved. After setting a few minutes thesolution is again poured off the dregs and the dregs are thrown away. When thelast batch of crystals is removed, the alcohol can be stored and reused.

The dry ice is simply frozen carbon dioxide and its fumes are harmlessunless they are enough to replace the air. Don't handle the dry ice with yourbare hands [unless you are into pulling your skin off to the bone] as its coldwill cause blisters.



In order for pure ammonium nitrate to be detonated by a dynamite cap, itmust be very dry. Spread it out under a heat lamp ir in thte sun. Whencompletely dry, store it in tightly closed plastic bags.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

LAUGHING GAS =-=-=-=-=-=-

As a special treat for the dopers in the audience and since ammoniumnitrate has been on your mind for a few minutes, you might as well learn how tomake laughing gas from ammonium nitrate.

Laughing gas was one of the earliest anaesthetics. After a little whileof inhaling the gas the patient became so happy [ain't life great?] he couldn'tkeep from laughing. Finally he would drift off to a pleasant sleep.

Some do-it-yourselfers have died while taking laughing gas. This isbecause they has generated it through plastic bags while their heads wereinside. They were simply suffocating but were too bombed out to realize it.

The trick is to have a plastic clothes bag in which you generate a lot ofthe gas. Then you stop generating the gas and hold a small opening of the bag

under your nose, getting plenty of oxygen in the meantime. Then, Whee! To make it you start with ammonium nitrate bought from a chemical supplyhouse or which you have purified with 100% rubbing or wood alcohol.

First, dissolve a quantity of ammonium nitrate in some water. Then youevaporate the water over the stove, while stirring, until you have a heavybrine. When nearly all the moisture is out it should solidify instantly when adrop is put on an ice cold metal plate.

When ready, dump it all out on a very cold surface. After a while, breakit up and store it in a bottle.

A spoonful is put into a flask with a one-hole stopper, with a tubeleading into a big plastic bag. The flask is heated with an alcohol lamp.

When the temperature in the flask reaches 480 F the gas will generate. Ifwhite fumes appear the heat should be lowered as the stuff explodes at 600 F.

When the bag is filled, stop the action and get ready to turn on.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

BLACK POWDER:GRANDPAS RECIPE

IF YA WANT TO MAKE SOME LOW EXPLOSIVE BOMBS THEN YOU PICKED THE RIGHT

CHOICE!FIRST OF ALL, THIS RECIPE WILL SHOW HOW TO MAKE BLACK POWDER IN A SIMPLEANDSAFE MANNER YET HAVE THE POWER TO MAKE SOME STRONG LOW EXPLOSIVE BOMBS.

NOTE: THE BELOW AMOUNTS WILL YIELD TWO POUNDS (THAT'S 900 GRAMS FOR YOUMETRICUSERS) OF BLACK POWDER. HOWEVER, ONLY THE RATIOS OF THE AMOUNTS OFINGREDIENTSARE IMPORTANT. THUS, FOR TWICE AS MUCH BLACK POWDER, DOUBLE ALL



QUANTITIESUSED.

MATERIAL REQUIRED-----------------LARGE WOODEN STICK

CLOTH, 2 FT. SQ.

FLAT WINDOW SCREENING, 1 FT. SQ.

HEAT SOURCE

WATER, 3 CUPS

ALCOHOL, 5 PINTS (ANY KIND)

SULFER, POWDERED, 1/2 CUP (FLOWERS OF SULFER, AT A DRUG STORE)

WOOD CHARCOAL, POWDERED, 2 CUPS

POTASSIUM NITRATE, GRANULATD, 3 CUPS (SALTPETER, AT DRUG STORES)2 BUCKETS, BOTH 2 GALLON, ONE MUST BE HEAT RESISTANT

PROCEDURE:----------1. PLACE ALCOHOL IN ONE OF THE BUCKETS.

2. PLACE POTASSIUM NITRATE, CHARCOAL, AND SULFUR IN THE HEAT RESISTANTBUCKET.ADD 1 CUP WATER AND MIX THOROUGHLY WITH WOODEN STICK UNTIL ALLINGREDIENTS AREDISSOLVED. 3. ADD REMAINING WATER (2 CUPS) TO MIXTURE. PLACE BUCKET ON HEAT SOURCEANDSTIR UNTIL SMALL BUBBLES BEGIN TO FORM.

CAUTION: DO NOT BOIL MIXTURE. BE SURE ALL MIXTURE STAYS WET. IF ANYIS DRY, AS ON SIDES OF PAN, IT MAY IGNITE.

4. REMOVE BUCKET FROM HEAT AND POUR MIXTURE INTO ALCOHOL WHILE STIRRINGVIGOROUSLY.

5. LET ALCOHOL MIXTURE STAND ABOUT 5 MINUTES. STRAIN MIXTURE THROUGHCLOTH TO OBTAIN BLACK POWDER. DISCARD LIQUID. WRAP CLOTH AROUND BLACKPOWDERAND SQUEEZE TO REMOVE ALL EXCESS LIQUID.

6. PLACE SCREENING OVER DRY BUCKET. PLACE WORKABLE AMOUNT OF DAMP

POWDER ONSCREEN AND GRANULATE BY RUBBING SOLID THROUGH SCREEN.

NOTE: IF GRANULATED PARTICLES APPEAR TO STICK TOGETHER AND CHANGE SHAPE,RECOMBINE ENTIRE BATCH OF POWDER AND REPEAT STEPS 5 AND 6.

7. SPREAD GRANULATED BLACK POWDER ON FLAT DRY SURFACE SO THAT LAYERABOUT 1/2 INCH IS FORMED. ALLOW TO DRY. USE RADIATOR, OR DIRECTSUNLIGHT. THIS SHOULD BE DRIED AS SOON AS POSSIBLE, PREFERABLY IN ONEHOUR. THE LONGER THE DRYING PERIOD, THE LESS EFFECTIVE THE BLACK POWDER.



CAUTION: REMOVE FROM HEAT AS SOON AS GRANULES ARE DRY. BLACK POWDERIS NOW READY FOR USE!

:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: How to Counterfeit::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

This article deals with how to make counterfeit money. Before readingthis article it would be a very good idea to get a book about photo-offsetprinting, for that's how you'll have to print it. For someone who isfamiliar with offset printing, printing money is a breeze. Real money is madeby a process called gravure. It involves carving out of a metal block (but Idon't think anyone can do that by hand-if you can, you should be on That'sIncredible!). When you are done (if you did everything correctly) you willhave a finished product nearly identical to real money, depending on yourprinting skills. Well, let's get started!------------------------------------------------------------------------------ First I'd like to tell you briefly how offset printing works. It startsby making negatives (kind of like when you take a picture with your camera).Then you take the negatives and put them on a piece of masking material (usually orange). Then you expose the STRIPPED negatives or FLATS to a

lithographic plate with an arc light plate maker. The BURNED plates are thendeveloped with the proper developer chemical. These plates (one at a time ofcourse) are wrapped around the plate cylinder of the press. The press to useshould be an 11 by 14 (or so) offset such as the 11 by 17 AB Dick 360. Thenthe printing begins! To learn in detail how to do each of these steps youshould again get a book on the subject. The presswork takes some practice,but you'll get the hang of it.

Ok, quit babbling on, Wave, and start the good stuff! By the way you canpick up an 11 by 14 offset for about $500 if you shop around (or you can** BORROW ** a press from your local Insty Prints at about 3:00 in themorning!). First, like I said before, you need negatives. Make 2 negativesof the portrait side of the bill and 1 of the back side. After developing

them and letting them dry, take them to a light table. Get some opaque and,on one of the portrait sides, touch out all the green (the seal and the serialnumbers). Line that one up on the FLAT and leave about 1/2 inch from the topof the flat. Then for the other portrait, touch out everything BUT the sealand serial numbers. The back side doesn't require any retouching because itis all one color. Now, make sure all the negatives are lined up right, orREGISTERED, on the flats. By the way, every time you need another serialnumber, just shoot 1 neg. of the portrait side and cut out the serial number.Cut out the old serial number from the flat and replace it with the new one.

Ok, now you have 3 flats, each represents a different color-black and 2shades of green (which of course are made by mixing inks). Now you are readyto burn the plates. Take a lithographic plate and mark 3 marks on it. These

marks must be 2 & 9/16 in. apart, starting on one of the short edges. Do thesame thing to 2 more plates. Then take 1 of the flats and place it on theplate, lining the short edge up with the edge of the plate-EXACTLY! Burn it,move it up to the next mark, and cover up the exposed area you already burned.Burn that and do the same thing 2 more times-moving the flat up one mark.Then do the same process with the other 2 flats (each on a separate plate).Develope all 3 plates. You should have 4 images on each plate with an equalspace between each bill.

Roll the Presses!



---- --- -------

The paper you will need won't match exactly, but you can make it prettydamn close (close enough for the cashier at K-Mart!). The paper to use shouldhave a 25% rag content. I have found that Disaperf computer paper worksgreat - that's the kind that you can barely see the perforation. Take thispaper (cut the pinfeed holes off first!) and load it into the press. Be sureto set the air, buckle, and paper thickness right. Start with the black plate(the one with out the serial numbers). Wrap it around the cylinder and loadblack ink in. Make sure you run more than you need because there will be alot of rejects. Then, while that's printing, mix the inks for the serial #'sand the back side. You'll need to add some white and maybe yellow to theserial # ink. You need to add black to back side. Experiment till you getit right. Clean the press and print the other side. Now you have the billwioth no green seal or serial numbers. Print a few with one serial number,make another and repeat. Keep doing this until you have as many differentnumbers as you want. Then cut the bills to the exact size with a paper cutter Now you have a lot of money, except there is still one problemo - the paperis pure white. To dye it, mix the following in a pan: 2 cups hot water, 4 tea bags, and about 16-20 drops of green food coloring (experiment). Dipone of the bills in and compare it to a brand new REAL bill. Make the neces-sary adjustments, and dye all the bills. Then it is a good idea to make themlook used. Wrinkle them, rub coffee grinds on them, etc. Congratulations!

You're rich!

Sodium Chlorate Formulas------------------------Sodium Chlorate is similar to potassium chlorate,and in most cases can be asubstitute. Sodium chlorate is also more soluble in water. You can find sodiumchlorate at Channel or any hardware/home improvement store. It is used inblowtorches and you can get about 3lbs for about $6.00.

Rocket Fuel-----------6 parts sodium chlorate mixed *THOROUGHLY* with 5 parts rubber cement.

Rocket Fuel 2 (better performance)----------------------------------50% sodium chlorate35% rubber cement ('One-Coat' (tm))10% epoxy resin hardener5% sulfur

You may want to add more sodium chlorate depending on the purity you are using.

Nitromethane formulas---------------------

I thought that I might add this in since it's similar to Astrolite.Nitromethane (CH3NO2)specific gravity:1.139flash point:95fauto-ignite:785f

Derivation: reaction of methane or propane with nitric acid under pressure.

Uses: Rocket fuel; solvent for cellulosic compounds, polymers, waxes, fats,



etc.To be detonated with a #8 cap, add:

1) 95% nitromethane + 5% ethylenediamine2) 94% nitromethane + 6% aniline

Power output: 22-24% more powerful than TNT. Detonation velocity of 6,200MPS.

Nitromethane 'solid' explosives-------------------------------

2 parts nitromethane5 parts ammonium nitrate (solid powder)

soak for 3-5 min. when done,store in an air-tight container.This is supposed to be 30% more powerful than dynamite containing 60% nitro-glycerin, and has 30% more brilliance.

Getting others to Commit Suicide

Well, lately, there has been many Suicides lately. A little while ago, here in

beautiful NJ, 4 teenagers said their last rites and started the car up in thegarage. This brought a smile to my face, you see, the more people dead,the better off you are in the game of life. When people our age die, thatmeans the rest of us have a better chance of getting into the college we want,cause there is less of them to compete with. There are more jobs to have, andmaybe you might find one you like. There is more food and other materialproducts, and this keeps the price of everything down. Its just better forthe whole society. Who cares about the mourning family, they'll get over it,as you know who says "another day, another death"... Death is a fact of lifefor everyone, and the more dead, the better.

HOW YOU CAN HELP:-----------------

Find somebody that looks (as follows) like this:-Real Ugly, someone who needs to be put out of misery, and so we don't have to look at them

-Real Quiet, these people usally have something wrong upstairs, they can't deal with other people, they are no good to you anyway.

-Real Stupid, everybody knows someone like this, like IQ of 98, someone who can be pursuaded easily into the act.

-Someone with parents that prod them, like high pressure parents, who tellthier kids to do well in everything or die...

(this is the good one)

-Somebody who has tried committing suicide before, cause they are fucked upallready and they are the easist to convince.

CONVINCING THEM:----------------Ok, find one of the above and try the first tactic, total harassment. Just ragand rag and rag and rag on them, tell them their mother sucks black cock in



hell, send letters saying that they are illegitimate, saying that they aredrafted into the Marines.. Call them up and tell her mom that she doesCrack and she's pregnant. Get a guy that looks like a total scumbag bikerwith chains and shit and tell her mom that he's ready to pick her up fortheir orgy. Or if its a guy tell him 'yo maun, i got de stuff, wheres demoney??"... Just make their total life hell.

OR

Befriend them, get real close to them, tell them you love them, you want tobe with them forever (in hell). Get close to the parents too, act real nice,kiss some ass, be a real goody 2 shoes, feel like part of the family.Then make up some crisis you supposedly had at home, say that your dad isgonna kick you outa the house if (you dont cut that hair)...sorry... you dont get a job and pay for everythingyou use. Say that he grounded you for 5732 days and you can't go anywhere.Then lie to the other kid's parents and tell them something like your(son) daughter's is hooked on drugs and get her in trouble. Then atnight tell the other party to meet you somewhere, like on a bridge, anywherethat you can die easily. Then make her feel like shit and ask (demand) herto go in a suicide jump together, go 1-2-3, she jumps you stay where youare and laugh.

PACTS:

------Suicide Pacts are the best way to get rid of alot of people at once. Pactsusally consist of 2 to 6 people, (unlike my good friend Jim Jones who wiped outover 300 with poisoned Kool-Aid), and are usally done in a painless way.Try to find a bunch of depressed people and tell them to join your littlegroup that meets twice a week to 'talk' about everyones problems.Bullshit with them for a week or two, show a few other ways out of depression(which should'nt work) then tell them (strongly) about a easy way out,convince them into a SUICIDE PACT. Probability is that if 2 or 3 agree withit, the whole group will do it, and that's just dandy!.

PRE-ACT TACTICS:----------------

Now since this person is never going to be around any more, and if you sayyou are going with them, tell the other party to give you all their belongingsso you can 'give it to charity, someone who really needs it'. Of course allthe goods go to bank account and some good blow.

Also, if you play your cards right, you can take out a life insurance policyon the person and make 10g's to 1 mil, depending on the company and howstupid they are.

Or if you forgot about the pre-act tactics just go to the parents and say'She would want me to have this' (a $2500 pioneer stereo rack system),a few weeks after the death, and cry when you do it.

WAYS OF SUICIDE:----------------The folling is a list of many ways to get the person to commit suicide:

-Carbon Monoxide, as in automobile exhaust, a very painless way to die. Youjust sit in the car, in a garage, and it feels like you are going to sleep.

-A Gun, also another painless way, point the gun at the temple (head), aimon an angle towards the lower base of the skull, instant DEATH.



vengence. And what better way to get back at someone than damaging his/her car. The thing which s/he has saved up for, worked hard for, and paid for. Yes!!! This is the item which you must attack, for most of the time, it is parked outside, easily accesible at night and very important to the asshole you want to annoy. The method I will describe is relatively easy and safe to set up, but very effective in causing damage. The method of destruction will be explosion. The explosive device is already inside the car, factory installed just for you to use. It is the standard 12 volt car battery.

Let's look at the princleple behind the exploding battery:

you are by now familiar with the theory of how batteries work, and if youaren't, your probably too young to be thinking of these sorts of things.Anyway, within the battery, is not only a current flowing from positive tonegative (actually, it is from negative to positive, but that's anotherstory), but also a small internal resistance. The resistance inside thebattery is in the order of magnitude of roughly .0024 OHM, an amount so small,it is usually ignored. But, that is for normal operation of the battery. Thecase we're interrested in is for the closed circuit of the battery by itself.For a closed circuit, the internal resistance becomes a big deal, and thefollowing holds true:

(voltage) divided by (resistance) equals (current)

or

V/R=I

let's calculate

12volt/.0024 ohm = 5000 amps

Amazing!!!!! by causing a short circuit (closed circuit), the battery produces5000 amps of current running through that little bugger. However, thiscurrent is short lived, and the battery cannot handle this capacity for long,so therefore the battery explodes. It explodes with a rather large force,

causing considerable damage from the pressure, flames, and hurling lead. Allthese goodies combined with the volatile liquids hidden inside the engine willcause the vehicle to add another member to the big junk yard in the sky.

Great!! now we know how to make the car blow up, but we don't want to go upwith hte car, so what we need is a triggering device. one can go from thesimple to elaborate, by incorporating sophisticated devices such as radiotransmitters, but for our purposes, we will opt for a simple timer and relaydevice.

First, we will need some heavy cable, capable of handling the massive currentwithout melting, then we will need a relay also able to cope with largecurrents. Next, we need a timer which will count down the seconds to our

triuphant vengance. And finally, a small battery to run the relay (thesmall battery will run both the relay and the timer if you are using a digitaltimer).

Now: Connect the small battery to the timer, the timer to the relay, and therelay to the car battery. Connect the heavy duty relay to the the car batterywith the heavy cable. There you have it!!!!

__________________ small batt / ____ _|



_____ _________________ ______/ / _||________||_ | |___| | | \_______/ / | CAR | | |___| ___|TIMER|___|relay| / | BATTERY | | / | | |_____| / |______________| |____________/ |_____| \_______/

remember, tinkering with other people's property is a no-no, and officerfriendly might get ugly with you if he sees you doing this, so be forewarned.Also, car batteries are dangerous to play with, and if handled improperly,may explode unintentionally, causing the concentrated acid to spray in yourface, making you look like the elephant man. so don't come crying to me whensomething happens, cause i'll just laugh at you and possibly urinate over youif you rub me the wrong way.

MERCURY BATTERY BOMB!---------------------Materials:

1 Mercury Battery (1.5 or 1.4 V Hearing Aid) 1 working lamp with on/off switch

Procedures:

1. Turn the lamp switch on to see if lite-bulb light up.2. If it works, leave the switch on and unplug the cord3. Unscrew the bulb (Dont touch the hot-spot!)4. Place 1 Mercury Battery in the socket and make sure that it is touching the Hot-spot contact.5. Move any object or furniture - Why? There may be sparx given off!6. Now your favorite part, stand back and plug in cord in the socket.7. And you will have fun!! Like Real Party!!!

How to make a Milk Carton Bomb

written by XTX-101------------------------------------------------------------------------------ A milk carton bomb is relitively simple and safe. It's only purpose it to create a loud noise.

The ingredients needed to make this are few and easy to aquire. You will needa plastic milk carton, lighter fluid(type used in cigarette lighters), a pieceof paper, and a pair of chopsticks. If you can not obtain chop sticks, it'sokay to substitute them with something that can hold the paper and is longenough so that you won't be harmed by the flames.

After aquiring all of the ingredients, you can now start to make the bomb.

The procedure is easy. First, puncture a hole at the bottom of the milk cartonwith a screw driver or equivalent. Next fill one-fourth of the milk carton withlighter fluid. Place the milk carton in a fairly large area outisde. Hold apiece of paper between the chopsticks and light the paper with a match.Cautiously place the lighted paper under the hole of the carton and BOOM!You have your loud explosion with little damage to the surrounding area. Itwould be a good idea to have some water handy to extinguish any flames.

Be careful when doing this and have fun.



][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][ ][/////////REAL/PIPE/BOMBS//////////][ ][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][

STUFF YOU'LL NEED:------------------AN 8 INCH SECTION OF PVC CONDUIT 1" IN DIAMETER2 PIPE CAPS (THAT WILL FIT THE PVC)SOME SORT OF PROPELLANTSOME GREEN WATERPROOF FUSEA TUBE OF FORMA-GASKET, OR SOME SORT OFSEALANTA HOT GLUE GUNA DRILL WITH A SMALL BIT

ASSEMBLY:---------PUT ONE OF THE CAPS ON THE PVC, SEAL IT, AND LET IT DRY. FILL THE PIPEHALFWAYFULL WITH YOUR PROPELLANT HOLD ONE END OF THE FUSE WHILE FILLING THE PIPETHEREST OF THE WAY WITH THE PROPELLANT. THE PIPE SHOULD NOW BE FULL OF THEPROPELLANT UP TO 1/3 INCH FROM THE TOP OF THE PVC. FILL IT THE REST OF THE

WAYWITH HOT GLUE, AND LET IT COOL. DRILL A SMALL HOL IN THE REMAINING PIPECAP, AND PUT IT ON THE PVC MAKE SURE YOU HAVE RUN THE FUSE THROUGH THESMALLHOLE! NOW, SEAL THE CAP ON THE PIPE, AND SEAL THE SMALL HOLE AROUND THEFUSEHOLE.

YOU NOW HAVE A WORKING PIPE BOMB WHICH IS ROUGHLY THE EQUIVALENT OF 1STICK OFTNT. HOW YOU USE IT IS UP TO YOU.

1) What is Anarchy? Anarchy can be taken technically (one who promotes the downfall of governments) or as a number of other definitions (One who is knowledgeable of the arts of destruction, One who uses the arts of destruction sparingly to his advantage, One who likes to see things blown to Bufu, Egypt). This manual is to train the people who fall under the category of "One who uses the arts of destruction sparingly and to his advantage" and also "One who likes to see things blown to Bufo, Egypt". More on these views later. If you are one who plots the destruction of governments, just abort this download now, and go to your room and hold your breath, because it isn't going to happen. Those of you who want to know how to do these type of things in case of nuclear war, go ahead and read, and in fact, dump this out to your

printer and memorize it, you seem like the kind of person who would do these type of things.

2) What are some do's and don'ts of anarchy? Ok, First of all, an anarchist has to have a clear mind. Use or ingest nothing that would dull your reflexes or cloud your thoughts. That means, No "bongs" (for serious anarchy anyway) and no booze (at least for the few nights before an anarchy raid). If you do heavy drugs, just abort now and do some more, because i dont want any beefed up junkies trying to blow up my house (I would probably be able to destroy them anyway).



"Bongs" are what many anarchists consider good use of their free time. I condemn that practice, but if you can refrain from over-usage, It is ok if you go on reading.

As you can see, you may have to make a few sacrifices for anarchy. But its for your own good (so you dont blow up yourself) and for others (dont kill innocent people, get the guys who deserve it). However, many future anarchists may read this and decide never to start such "habits" at all. All the better. One thing i find detestable in a lot of neo-anarchists is their tendancies to brag and to be impatient. Anarchy (if thats the right word at all for us type of people, more in a future volume) requires a lot of preparations, which can lead to a lot of fun (for you and your friends), or just plain survival. Never be impatient, always be cool (even when you have state police chasing you down free-ways doing 90mph). If you take the "cool" silent attitude, you'll be good...damn good (sounds corny doesn't it?). One thing that baffles me is how some very successful anarchists get away with the stuff they do. Diamond Dave Letterman writes files all the time (and im sure is proud of it) and doesnt strike me as the most rational person in the world, but damn, is he good (so i hear anyways). I wouldn't suggest you try his approach to life until you have practiced the ways of the anarchist. One more thing that separates the real anarchists from the guys who just buy fireworks and blow it up and call theirselves anarchists, is brains.

You should be getting good grades in school, and not be getting into any trouble (that is, before you start anarchy). The real anarchists have this, and they take their time with details, but moving swift and silently when it counts. I suggest you buy some dark clothes, maybe a ski mask, get repairs on your car (if you have one, make sure its fast) and get money together (for bail). Most of you are going to stop doing most of the experiments, and you probably wont need this stuff, but if you intend on doing common anarchy around the neighborhood for practice, get the dark suit. If you are going to go farther, it means you are probably serious about anarchy (or crazy, dead, or both), and you'll probably need a car (not necessarily though). Oh yes, I forgot to mention one of the most important requirements for an anarchist: Physical fitness. Start today by lifting weights (and losing

some if you need to). You have to have strong legs to run, so start jogging, and if you want to go real far, get training in weapons and the martial arts. You aren't always going to have a weapon (not common), so I opt for the martial arts first. Make sure you get your weapons training on your own or from a friend, because if you take a weapons course, consider yourself plastered if they ever find out that you took their course.

[ ] Acetone Peroxide Explosive

This explosive can not only be used as an explosive, but also as adetonater.

-=-=-=-=-=--MATERIALS--=-=-=-=-=-

Name Source---- ------Hydrogen Peroxide Hair Bleach, Drug Stores and Hair supply Stores

Acetone Hardware Stores and Drug



Stores

Sulfuric Acid Clear battery acid boiled until white fumes appear.

Eye Dropper or Syringe w/ glass tubeGraduated Cylinder (cc or ml)Thermometer (0 to 100 degrees C)Glass ContainersLarge PanIce and SaltWaterPaper Towels

All the above can easily be commandeered from your school laboratory for yourown purposes.

-=-=-=-=-=--PROCEDURE--=-=-=-=-=-

1) Mix 30 ml of Acetone and 50ml of Hydrogen Peroxide into a glass container and mix thoroughly.

2) Cool it by plaicing it in a larger container containing ice, salt, and water. Now cool it to 5 degrees Celcius.

3) Add 2.5 ml of concentrated ulfuric acid to the mixture slowly (drop by drop w/ the eye dropper). Stir the mixture w/the thermometer keeping the the temperature between 5-10 degrees celcius. If the temperature rises don't shit just stop adding the sulfuric acid until it cools down then start adding it again.

4) Now that you got all the acid into the mixture continue stirring for another 5 minutes.

5) Now let the mixture stand for 12 to 24 hours in the ice/salt bath.6) After 12 hours the crystals of acetone peroxide will precipitate out of the once clear solution. Precipitation should be done after 24 hours.

7) Now filter out the crystals through a paper towel attached to a jar with a rubber band. Then after that wash the crystals by pouring ice cold water over them, letting the water rinse the crystals and filter down through the paper towel into the jar.

8) Select a container and allow them to dry.

-=-=-=-

-USES!--=-=-=-

Now this can be used as an explosive however it is the simplest detonaterthat I have ever encountered. It works best in 2.5 inch lengths of brass tubingwith one end sealed. The only drawback is that it must be used quickly asAcetone Peroxide deteriorates quickly. I have found that keeping itrefrigerated seems to make it last longer however for optimum effects it shouldbe used 7 days after manufacture at the latest. It also can be used to detonatealmost every Ammonium Nitrate compound, and Ammonium Nitrate itself for that



matter.

[ ] Fertilizer/Hydrazine Liquid Explosive

This one is a killer it is more powerful and more brisant than C-4.However you need a blasting cap to detonate or a homemade compound detonater.Namely Acetone Peroxide detonaters can be used here or Mini-Compound Detonaters.

-=-=-=-=-=--MATERIALS--=-=-=-=-=-

Name Source---- ------Ammonium Nitrate Fertilizer (no less than Farm and Feed Stores32% Nitrogen) or pure

Anhydrous Hydrazine Chemical Supply House(Be careful with this one it is very reactive!!!)

Large Mixing Container*GLASS* stirring rodStorage Container w/tight lidBlasting Cap or Compound Detonater

-=-=-=-=-=--PROCEDURE--=-=-=-=-=-

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-*NOTE* mixing these two is the same as baking soda and vinegar so the reactionis very effervescant and can bubble over the top so use a jar 6 times the volumeof the Hydrazine! Also large volumes of ammonia gas are realeased when thesetwo are mixed so wear a gas mask or be upwind of the mixing.-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

1) Pour into the container the an amount of Anhyrdrous Hydrazine equal to the

amount of explosive required.2) Ammonium Nitrate Prilled or Powdered is added a teaspoon at a time to the container, then wait for it to dissolve (stirring constantly), and then add more.3) Continue the above process until the ammonium nitrate no longer dissolves into the hydrazine, and don't worry about the small amount of ammonium nitrate left over.4) Now your basically done and you have an explosive more powerful than any military explosive.5) To make it more powerful add 20% aluminum powder to the mixture (100 mesh or finer)

-=-=-=-

-USES!--=-=-=-

This mixture has unique absorbtion and retention properties, and can bepoured directly on the ground for a liquid land mine. This type of land mine istotally disquised and cannot be noticed, and all you need to do is bury acompound detonater in the ground, which can be detonated by a step switch etc... This type of land mine remains detonatable for up to four days regardless ofrain etc... It can also be poured into a container and used as a bomb.



-PROCEDURE--=-=-=-=-=-

*NOTE* dirt or oil may sensitive the detonaters to an unsafe level so whenhandling the primary ad secondary and ingnition charges use tongs. Also boil abucket of water in the room as humidity helps or if your in a house turn yourshower on hot and leave it on!

1) Now light a candle, and let two drops of wax drip into each shell casing before use. Then let the wax cool down.2) Now fill the casing to a depth of 1/4 inch with RDX or PETN, and then *GENTLY and SLOWLY* insert the ram and compress the explosive slowly and evenly. Now remove the ram slowly and carefully.3) Continue this process adding small amounts of RDX or PETN until a column of secondary explosive 5/8 of an inch high has been pressed into the 1 inch shell casing.4) Now add a small amount of Primary explosive the same way you added the secondary explosive on top of the secondary explosive. Now add the Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide on top of the 5/8 inch column of secondary explosive and compress it with the ram until it reaches a height of primary explosive 1/4 inch high.5) Now compress the remaining 1/8 of an inch with black powder. Now seal the top with wax paper or tape until ready for use.

-=-=-=-=--DIAGRAM--=-=-=-=-

- ++++++ | |@@@@| | |****| | |****| | |####| 1 INCH------< |####| | |####| | |####| | |####|

| |----| - |====|

+-+-++Key++-+-+

@ = Black Powder (Ignition Charge)* = Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide (Primary Charge)# = RDX or PETN (Secondary Charge)- = Two drops of wax on Bottom+ = Tape covering top= = The bottom of shell casing

| = Sides of .22 Magnum Shell-=-=-=--USES!--=-=-=-

These little beauties can be used for almost any purpose or a largerversion can be used where a hard to detonate substance is used. Their main useis for minature hand grenades and other small explosives. The next issue of"Anarchy Today" will cover various things such as explosive candles, etc...



[ ] Potassium Chlorate/Sugar Ignitor

This ignitor is one of my many favorites, it can be ignited by eitherconcentrated sulfuric or nitric acids. It also works excellently as a timedelay, which I will detail later.

-=-=-=-=-=--MATERIALS--=-=-=-=-=-

Name Source---- ------Potassium Chlorate Drug Stores and chemical supply houses

Sugar (Granulated) Grocery Store

Measuring Container (Cup, Tablespoon, etc...)Storage Container w/tight fitting lidMixing Container w/tight fitting lid

Two flat boards (one large 36x36 and the other

small so it can be held in the hand).-=-=-=-=-=--PROCEDURE--=-=-=-=-=-

1) Spread handful at a time the potassium chlorate on the large board and rub with the other flatboard or a rolling pin until the particles resemble granulated sugar.2) Now measure out 2 parts by volume of sugar into the container, and then add 3 parts by volume of the Potassium Chlorate to the container. Now recap the container and shake the mixture for 4-5 minutes until it has a uniform color and consistency.

3) Store for future use in an air tight container, but remember to shake it up before use to re-mix any settled particles.

-=-=-=--USES!--=-=-=-

Now for a delayed reaction place the acid in a gelatin capsule and burythe gelatin capsule in the Potassium Chlorate mixture. Depending on how manygelatin capsules you use and their size depends on the delay. It can range from20 minutes to and hour or more. This type of ignitor reaches a temperature of3,200 degrees farenheit and can ignite most incendiaries. It can also becompacted into a pipe to create a low power pipe bomb.

[ ] Sulfur and Aluminum Igniter

This is more of a secondary ignitor for those tough to igniteincendiaries such as thermite etc... It is relatively easy to make and safe tohandle so therefore it is an excellent ignitor, and it does not lose it'seffectiveness quickly.

-=-=-=-=-=--MATERIALS-



-=-=-=-=-=-

Name Source---- ------Fine Aluminum Powder Paint Stores (Bronzing Powder)

Sulfur Drug Stores

Measuring Container(Cup, tablespoon, etc...)Mixing Container w/tight fitting lidStorage Container w/tight fitting lid (airtight)

Two Flat Boards one hand size and the other 36x36or a big board and a rolling pin

-=-=-=-=-=--PROCEDURE--=-=-=-=-=-

1) Spread the sulfur out on the board and crush into a fine powder (dust)2) Measure out 4 parts by volume of finely powdered sulfur to 1 part by volume of aluminum powder. Now mix these two in the mixing container by closing the lid and shaking it up for 4-5 minutes until a uniform

color and consistancy are achieved.3) Store the igniter in a waterproof container until ready for use. Also re-shake before use to re-mix and settled particles.

-=-=-=--USES!--=-=-=-

This is mainly used to ignite thermite. Four spoonfuls of thisaluminum/sulfur igniter are added on top of the thermite, and one spoonful ofpotassium chlorate/sugar igniter is added on top of that. Now when thepotassium Chlorate/sugar igniter is ignited it in turn ignites thealuminum/sulfur igniter. This igniter reaches an incredible heat, and should

not be watched igniting without dark lensed protective eyewear, as it may causeblindness.

[ ] HTH/Brake Fluid Incendiary

This is a very effective time delayed incendiary that anyone can make,and get the materials too. It is simple and easy and inexpensive, so enjoy.Also this incendiary bursts into flames when brake fluid comes in contact withthe Calcium Hypochlorite.

-=-=-=-=-=--MATERIALS--=-=-=-=-=-

Name Sources---- -------Granular Calcium Hypochlorite 70% HTH swimming Swimming pool supplypool purifier house or bleaching agent

Brake Fluid Auto Parts Store or Gas Station



Two Cans of *EQUAL* size

Tape

Nail or Small Drill

-=-=-=-=-=--PROCEDURE--=-=-=-=-=-

1) Take your two cans and remove the contents, and then wash them out thouroughly. Now drill or puncture a small hole in the bottom center of one of the cans.2) Now drill or puncture a series of small holes evenly spaced in the side of the other can, and cover them with tape.3) Now tape the top can (the can with one hole) on top of the other can (the one with a lot of holes taped over)4) Now place this set up in the center of a pile of Calcium Hypochlorite. Now Depending on the delay time required remove the tape from over the appropriate number of holes.5) To start the delay just add brake fluid to the top can and let it start to drip down.

-=-=-=-=-

-Diagram--=-=-=-=-

------------------<------Top Can |________________| || || || || || || || <---------Brake Fluid || || ||_______O<-----------Drip Hole ------------------ ++++++++++++++++++

++++++++++++++++++<-------Tape bonding cans together ------------------ | | | O |<------ O's are the delay holes | | |+++++++O++++++++|<------Taped over hole | | | O | &&&&&&| |&&&&&&&& &&&&&&&&&&|+++++++O++++++++|<------Taped over hole &&&&&&&&&&&&&&------------------&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&& <------ &'s is the Calcium

Hypochlorite[ ] Incendiary Timed Delay Moltov Cocktail

Please note that the detonating capsules used here will be refered tomost likely in a later issue, because they work excellently. Also this bombdisperses flaming oil and gasoline quickly, so steer clear of it when it goesoff.

-=-=-=-=-=-



-MATERIALS--=-=-=-=-=-

Name Source---- ------Potassium/Chlorate Sugar igniter "Anarchy Today" Issue 1 Article 5

Concentrated Sulfuric Acid Clear battery acid boiled until white fumes appear

Gelatin Capsules (sizes 0,00, and 000) Drug Store and Veterinary Clinics

Lead Shot Gun Stores or Shotgun Shells

Narrow Neck Bottles (i.e. Wine bottles etc...) Liquor Store or Garbage

OilGasoline

-=-=-=-=-=-

-PROCEDURE--=-=-=-=-=-

1) Empty out the contents of the gelatin capsules if any and separate them. Now fill the smaller half of the capsule 1/4 full of lead shot. Now fill the remaining space with the potassium chlorate/sugar igniter.2) Now pack it down, and place the larger end cap on the packed main capsule. Now set this aside for later use. Now repeat this process until a number of capsules have been produced.3) Store in a airtight container for future use.

-=-=-=--USES!-

-=-=-=-1) Now your ready to make the incendiary device. Fill your wine bottle about 1/4 inch high with Sulfuric Acid, and then fill the remaining space 3/4 full of a gasoline/oil mixture in a 1:1 ratio or half gas and half oil (same thing).2) Now to detonate drop in three or four of the previously prepared capsules, and turn the bottle upside down. (The neck of the bottle downward)3) What this does is the capsules with the lead shot in them sink to the neck of the bottle where the heavier Sulfuric Acid is concentrated. Now in about 20 minutes the acid will eat through the capsules and a white hot flame will explode the bottle dispersing the gasoline and oil

mixture.4) For a prolonged time delay place the capsule inside a larger capsule.

[ ] Miniature Claymore Mine

This is devasting and should be used in malls or other heavilytrafficked areas. It has a kill range of 50 yards (half a football feild), andis one of the best I have seen, and it's fun to watch too!



-=-=-=-=-=--MATERIALS--=-=-=-=-=-

Name Source---- ------Potassium Chlorate Drug Stores and Chemical Supply Houses

Nitrobenzene Drug Stores (Oil of Mirbane) and Chemical Supply Houses

Measuring Container (Cup, Tablespoon, etc...)

Double-Sided Adhesive Tape

Small Alnico 5 Horseshoe Magnets

Epoxy Resin

A Lot of 1/4 Inch Ball Bearings

Soap dishes consisting of two separate halvesThat fit together with the bottom half and the

top half bevelledFlat board 36x36 and another flat board orRolling Pin

-=-=-=-=-=--PROCEDURE--=-=-=-=-=-

1) First off crush the Potassium Chlorate between the two boards or with the rolling pin until it is a very very very fine powder.

2) Fill the top half of the soap dish to a depth of 3/4 inch with 1/4 inch diameter ball bearings held together with a light coating of epoxy resin.

3) Now cut a hole in the bottom half and cover it with tape. The hole should be big enough for you to pour the nitrobenzene into later and big enough to fit a detonater into.

4) Now pack the bottom half tightly with Potassium Chlorate, very tightly leaving no extra room.

5) Now tape the two halves together tightly, and your pretty much done.

-=-=-=--USES!--=-=-=-

1) When your ready to use your charge simply pour in the nitrobenzene. The correct ratio is 1 part by volume of nitrobenzene to 4 parts by volume of potassium chlorate. Now if you didn't read this through and keep track of the amount of potassium chlorate you used, then you fucked up and won't get optimum results.



2) Now allow the nitrobenzene to soak in for 4-6 minutes, and then insert your electronically initiated or time fused detonater into the hole. Now seal around the hole with epoxy resin3) Now use the magnets and the tape to attach the charge 3 feet above the ground with the ball bearing side facing outward.4) Now you can either use an egg timer or a stepswitch (Underground detonater activated by weight) or you can use the good old time fuse running into a mini-compound detonater.

[ ] Shotgun Shell Impact Grenade

This is an excellent little toy, and can save your life. It not onlydisperses crowds, but also legs, arms, feet, etc...

-=-=-=-=-=--MATERIALS--=-=-=-=-=-

Name Source---- ------Potassium Chlorate/NitrobenzeneMini-Compound Detonater12 Gauge Shotgun Shell Gunstore

Wood Dowel or Steel Bar 11/16' in Diameter Hardware Storesand any length beyon 1/2'

HacksawDrill with 1/4' bitPieces of Cloth 12' x 1/2'Epoxy ResinElectrical TapeSteel Ball Bearing 3/8' in Diameter

-=-=-=-=-=--PROCEDURE--=-=-=-=-=-

1) Cut open or open up the front end of a 12 gauge shotgun shell, and empty out the entire contents saving only the casing.2) To ensure the mini detonater is centered use the hacksaw to cut a 1/2' length of 11/16' steel bar or wooden dowel. Now drill a 1/4' diameter hole in the center of the 1/2' long wood or metal cylinder.3) After the guide has been prepared then glue it in place on the primer inside the shotgun shell casing. *NOTE* do not get any glue on the primer itself. Now place the minicompound detonater open side down in the cylinder and glue it into place. Now fill the remaining space in the shotshell with Potassium Chlorate ***CAREFULLY***. Now close off the end with tape, and when ready to use simply pour in the nitrobenzen activator.

4) After this is accomplished tape a 3/8' steel ball bearing over the primer on the outside of the shell over the primer. Now tape the cloth streamers around the upside of the shell casing to ensure stability in flight and also helping it to land on the downside or primer side.5) Now tape nails around the shell with notches filed 1/4' apart all along them.

-=-=-=-=--DIAGRAM-



-=-=-=-=-

\ / \ | / \ \/ \|/ / |\ /\| | \ \ / // / \ \/ // / \ \\||/ ------- |%%%%%%%| |%%%%%%%| |%%%%%%%| |%%%%%%%| |%%+++%%| |%%+++%%| |%%+++%%| |%%+++%%| |&&+++&&| |&&+++&&| ---"--- \ O / =====

+-+-+

+KEY++-+-+

+ = Mini Compound Detonater& = Wood or Metal Holding Cylinder for Mini-Compound Detonater= = TapeO = Ball Bearing% = Potassium Chlorate/Nitrobenzene High Explosive\ |\/ = Cloth Streamers" = Primer

-=-=-=-

-USES!--=-=-=-

1) Pour the nitrobenzene into the upside of the shell and then wait 3-4 minutes. Then to use simply throw at a target or group of people and upon impact the grenade will detonate itself.2) To use as a booby trap simply place it with the ball bearing side up in the ground where someone will step on it. Minus the cloth streamers or simply make the shell look the way it was before, and some poor shithead will eventually fire it resulting in death. Seeing that the barrel will most likely blow him apart.

[ ] Evading Bomb Squad Tactics

This article will deal with the modern methods used by police andmilitary bomb squad teams and how to overcome them. Most police forces have abomb squad or IED(Improvised Explosive Device)unit, but some rely on the armyEOD (Explosive Ordnance Disposal) unit. This is done, because small localpolice forces rarely have a need for a bomb squad or the funding to outrigone with the necessary equipment. Well enough of the background on with thearticle, in which I will outlay equipment and how to evade it.



-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=--Police Protection--=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

As of the writing of this article the most widely used form ofprotection is the Canadian Safeco body suits. These suits are made of kevlarand ballistic material and basically protect the pig from shrapnel and shockwave. However there are many design flaws in the suit, which I will outline.

(1) The officers hands must be exposed, because gloves would be too bulky to maneuver, and hinder his sense of touch.

(2) The other design flaw is the suit weighs a little over 50 pounds, and there is the constant problem of heat stroke etc...; Since the suit is very hot.

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=--Overcoming This Problem--=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

The solution here is quite simple, and the best option is to leave the best option is to either...

(A) Put the bomb out in the direct sunlight if you live in a hot climate. (A hot climate is temperatures in the 98-108 range.)(B) Place the explosive device in a boiler room.(C) Place it under a primary heating duct.(D) Use your imagination your intelligent.

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=--Disarming Robots!--=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

The police force recently has been employing robots in disarmingprocedures. The most popular one is the Pedsco RMI a canadian robot that runson six pneumatic tires; It also has a camera and a claw all of which are

controlled remotely. These robots however are pretty much strictly limited tolarge police forces, because of their cost. The design flaws in this areobvious...

(1) It is like the game where you get the prize with the claw. Or in other words it is difficult to operate, and is mainly used for moving the explosive device into a bomb transporter.(2) It only has one camera and one has to become extremely accustomed to the new depth perception via the camera.(3) They are almost never used in disarming procedures since they are too jerky. They are used to move the explosive to a bomb transporter.

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

-Overcoming This Problem--=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

There are many different solutions, which can be applied here. I willoutline a few of the more interesting ones that won't readily come to mind.

(A) This is my personnel favorite employ multiple explosives, and surround your bomb with minurature landmines, which will destroy the disarming robot.



(B) Another is to employ a secondary detonator into your device which is shock or sudden movement sensitive, so that if the operator of the claws drops the explosive or jolts it, it will detonate.

(C) Another is to attach multiple detonators to the sides of the explosive so that when the claws close in on the device it will detonate.

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=--Portable X-rays--=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

Police have more often used portable x-ray units. These units arecalled inspectors, and manufactured by golden. They run on their ownbatteries and use polaroid x-ray film. These are most effective usuallysince a relatively accurate x-ray can be procured in less than 20 seconds.The obvious design flaws in the are as follows:

(1) Certain materials are not susceptible to x-ray such as lead.

(2) It takes a well trained person to interpret an x-ray correctly.

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

-Overcoming This Problem--=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

The ways of overcoming this are obvious, but I will outlay them herefor those of you whose minds are slow.

(A) Encasing the explosive device in lead or some other material which will successfully evade the x-ray.

(B) Adding shit or miscellaneous metals inside the bomb to confuse the person interpreting the x-ray.

-=-==-=-=--Dearmers--=-==-=-=-

What the fuck is a dearmer you ask? Well a dearmer is usually employedby the bomb squad when it is apparent that device can be made docile bydestroying it's wiring.A dearmer is an electronically fired gun that shoots a variety of projectiles at a high velocity into the explosive. The purpose ofthis is to destroy the wiring rendering the explosive useless. They look likeminiature pipes, and can be fired remotely.There are a few design flaws here,but less than before that can be manipulated to our advantage.

(1) They can't cut through steel.


(A) The solution here is to encase the wiring in some way to prevent cutting.

(B) Another method for those of you who dare is to coat the wiring of the



device with a compound that will detonate from shock, and will in turn detonate the explosive.

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=--Bomb Transport Vehicles--=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

Yes, those oddly shaped vehicles that they carry away our explosives in.Well this took quite a bit of research to find out all of the types, but hereit goes. The first type is the spherical transporter, round in shape it isused when even a directed blast could cause injury, death, or destructioni.e. in such areas as where there are tall buildings and a large populous.The other type is either of one cylinder or multiple concentric cylinderswith spaces between them. The general purpose of these is to direct the blastupward, so as not to cause injury or destruction. The explosive issuspended in a net in the center of the cylinder. Most of the times theseare used to take the device to a safe area for detonation, but are designedjust in case the bomb goes KABOOM. Here there really aren't design flaws, butthere are ways to overcome his problem.


(A) First make your bombs (Unless the occasion calls for something different) so that they direct the full force of the explosion in one direction. A strong explosive device cannot be contained if it's entire force is sent into one direction.

(B) Take advantage of the open cylinder transport vehicle, and direct the force of the explosion downward assuring a hole in the street, and two maimed or mortally wounded cops.

[ ] Impact Exploding Arrows

These are impact exploding arrows, and how to make them. Thesebabies are lethal, and explode on impact. The obvious advantage to these isthat their hit-kill ratio is extremely high, and they are silent (Until theyhit). Another obvious advantage is that most of the evidence is destroyed orsprayed over a vast area. Any hit to the torso or head will prove fatal, andmost destructive. So on with it another lesson in pain.

-=-=-=-=-=--Materials--=-=-=-=-=-

Materials Source--------- ------Aluminum Hollow Shafted Arrow Sporting Goods StoreRDX ExplosiveMini-Compound Detonators (Different)Epoxy Resin Hardware StoreWooden Dowel That Fits Arrow Shaft Hardware StoreDrill with Needle Sized Bit Hardware StoreNeedles Slightly Smaller than Bit Size Anywhere



-=-=-=-=-=--Procedure--=-=-=-=-=-

(1) Remove the arrow head from shaft, and drop 5 drops of epoxy resin in the arrow shaft. Allow drying time according to the procedure outlayed in the instructions on the glue.

(2) Now that the glue is dry start adding in the RDX explosive, and loosely packing it down with the wooden dowel. Now continue this process until RDX explosive is within reach of the top leaving enough room to fit a mini-compound detonator and enough room to screw the arrow tip on about 1 1/2 inches.

(3) Now Take the arrow tip (Not on the Shaft) and put it in a vise-grip, and drill your needle sized hole. It might be easier to flatten the tip then drill the hole to assure that it is centered. Now set this aside for later use.

(4) Now make the mini-compound detonator, but differently this time make it backwards using a .22 shell with primer intact (One that hasn't

been fired) Now put in you 1/8 an inch of gunpowder first, then your 1/4 inch of acetone peroxide or mercury fulminate, then your 5/8 of an inch with RDX. However this time pack it very very loosely with the ram, so as not to set off the primer and have it explode in your face.

(5) Now set the mini compound detonator in the arrow shaft with the RDX with the primer pointing upwards (Getting the Picture). Now pour a little RDX around the edges of the .22 shell, and then using a FEW drops of epoxy resin secure the mini-compound detonator in place, so that it is PERFECTLY centered.

(6) Now screw the arrow tip back on the arrow, and place a needle in the

hole you drilled earlier. If the hole is too loose then the needle will fall out, so stuff some paper around it. If the hole is too tight the needle won't hit the primer and detonate the arrow, so drill a little bigger hole.

-=-=-=-=--Diagram--=-=-=-=-

//////////// ////////////

/--------------------------------------------------------------| /=========%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%|--+!@@%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%| \=========%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%|



\--------------------------------------------------------------| \\\\\\\\\\\\ \\\\\\\\\\\\

-=-=--Key--=-=-

+ = Primer on .22 Shell% = RDX Explosive! = Gunpowder@ = Either Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide\ = Arrow Fins and Tip/ = Arrow Fins and Tip- = Side of Arrow and Needle| = Back of Arrow

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=--Added Interjections--=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

This is one of the best things I have ever encountered, and has themost potential for fun. The added weight however does effect the velocity of

the arrow, but not so much the accuracy as was thought before adequatetesting was done. Enjoy, and...

[ ] Guns, Bullets, and The Fine Art of

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=--Guns-Guns-Guns!--=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

First off I will list the various types of calibers of weapons to

choose from, and the most feared sniper rifle of all and it's specifications.My personnel favorite and the most feared weapon is the 7.62 ball nato rifle,and in a moment I will demonstrate why. Although don't fret any weapon islethal hell here is an interesting fact for you. The longest verified sniperkill was executed during the civil war (believe it or not) when a sniperkilled a general one mile away.

Pistols Muzzel Velocity m/sec Impact Energy at 50m-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=--=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-9mm Lugar 338 47.38 Smith and Wesson 185 16

.357 Magnum 439 101Submachine-Gun-=-=-=-=-=-=-=.45 Thomson 280 58

Rifles-=-=-=7.62 Ball Nato 855 3805.56mm Armalite 990 173



Obviously you can now see how overrated the .357 magnum is the 7.62Ball Nato is 3 times more powerful, and is also known to easily pierce lightarmor. Also a special curved windscreen is employed to stop 5.56 and 7.62ammo. Well enough bragging on my favorite rifle on with the specs and thenyou choose your weapon.

Fabrique National Snipe Weapons-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= These wonderful people produce a 7.62mm sniper rifle with a removablebipod. This weapon is accurate up to 600 meters away (If thats hard tovisualize picture 475 people lying toe to head). It comes standard with aZeiss Diavari D telescopic sight. It also features an adjustable strap andvariable butt length. This comes in handy when your intended victim takeshis time. This weapon is mainly used by Belgium police forces inanti-terrorist operations however it can be bought in the U.S. The weaponalso holds 4 rounds with a fifth shell in the chamber.

McMillan M-82 and M-86 Sniper Weapons-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- This is one of the local police weapons used for sniping however itis one of the best ones on the market. The only drawback here is, it is boltaction, and if you are a lousy shot your in trouble. However it comes fromthe factory with a fiberglass stock, and a 24 inch, 1 in 12 twist stainless

steel barrel. It also comes with the ultra 10x-M1 scope, however to use thisweapon to it's full ability I suggest shopping around for a better scope, andhaving it calibrated to at least 700 yards.

Garrand M1A-=--=-=-=-= The ultimate in the sniper rifles on the commercial market. The onlyweapon that even comes close is the german made Springer, but that's too hardto find. This weapon is accurate as hell with a 1000 yard+ range. It is aheavy weapon, and this reduces the kick. It was primarily used by themarines in Vietnam era. These weapons can be found in collectors stores i.e.Collectors Firearms or bought through the NRA (National Rifle Association),but if you buy through the NRA you tend to have a wait period of 6 months.

I highly recommend this weapon it is the cutting edge of the technologicalage on the field of honor.

Where to Get Your Shit-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

Weapons Scopes-=-=-=- -=-=-=G. McMillan & Co. Carl Zeiss, Inc.21421 North 14th Avenue Box 2010Suite B 1015 Commerace StreetPhoenix, AZ. St. Petersburg, Va.85027 23803

Springfield Armoury420 West Main St.Genesco, IL. 61254

Target Systems Night Vision Suppressors(Silencers)-=-=-=-=-=-=-= -=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-=-=-=-=-ATS (Duelatron) Litton Johnathan Ciener12 Skillman Lane 1215 South 52nd St. 6850 Riveredge Dr.



St. Paul, MN. 55101 Tempe, AZ. 85281 Titusville, FL.32780

Listen these people do not usually sell to the public, so write tothem for a catalog and say you are a police officer and want to buysomethings for personnel use, but first call and ask if they sell to thepublic.

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=--Armor Piercing Bullets!--=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

Take your average bullet, and coat it in Teflon. Simple enough eh?Well thats it, now what this bullet does instead of breaking apart is itstays whole, and is capable of piercing through bullet proof vests at longranges, not to mention steel. Another method is to make your bullets out ofdifferent materials like tungsten, steel, etc... However this article is notgoing to go into how to cast bullets. Since there are many books on it invarious gun stores, etc....

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

-Exploding Destroyer--=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

This is my own version of the dum dum bullet. O.K. take your bullet,and cut off the end and sand it down, so that it is flat. Now take a knifeand cut an asterisk (*) into the bullet. On impact this bullet will explodeand spray into about 15 pieces of shrapnel, and totally destroy it's target.

-=-=-==-=-=--Evil Eddie--=-=-==-=-=-

This is another of my bastard creations. Take a hollow point bullet,and fill the hollow point with mercury. Now take a soldering iron, and dripa drop of solder over the point to seal it in. Note: Sometimes it isnecessary to widen the hollow point, so the bullet will fill with mercury.Now what this does is when the bullet is shot the mercury heats up andexpands, and rips apart the victim, and if it doesn't kill him with the firstshot the mercury gets into his blood and poisons him. This one is a surefire lethal shot!

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-Poison Bullets--=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

Now with these the poison is your preference, and you can either (A)put the poison in the tip of a hollow point and seal it in, or (B) heatpoison over a regular or dum-dum bullet. The one that works the best is thehollow point with poison sealed inside, and coated and heated on the outside.Now you can either use cyanide or mercuric oxide works well. However thereare hundreds of other poisons to choose from like botulinis toxin, etc....

[ ] Elimination by Poisoning-----------------------------------------------------------------------------



Since the beginning of time, there have always been dickheads, assholes, rapists, thieves, murderers, and the dog next door that bites the shit out of each time you walk by. And since the beginning of these problems there has always been the process of elimination. This file explains how to kill the dog next door through the modern technique of poisoning.-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

----------------- | ETHYLENE GLYCOL | ----------------- Ethylene Glycol is simply antifreeze such as Prestone, Zerex, etc. It has a sweetish-like taste to it and can be easily concealed in a bowl of punch, or someones softdrink. At a party or banquet, ethylene glycol can be easily poured from a container such as a kool-aid pitcher into the party punch. Be sure it is mixed with a package of kool-aid or something so that you don't arouse any suspicion. The lethal dosage of this is about four ounces and the good thing about ethylene glycol is that a person that is dying from it simply appears to be drunk...

---------------------- | CARBON TETRACHLORIDE | ----------------------

Carbon Tetrachloride can be easily obtained from fire extinguishers or

grease cleaning fluids found in auto supply stores. Carbon Tetrachloride isused in making phosgene gas which is highly lethal and was used in World WarI. The gas is made by heating carbon tetrachloride over a flame or hot plate.It is only effective in a closed room. A good way to utilize this is to set apan full of it on a heater. People seeing it will just think its water oftenplaced on heaters to keep the air from being too dry. Carbon tetrachloridehas the smell of musty hay and will most likely be ignored or someone willbring there can of lysol and spray the air with it.

---------- | NICOTINE | ----------

Nicotine is a highly lethal, horrifying poison. One drop of pure nicotinehas been known to kill in less than fifteen minutes. Its taste is easilyconcealedd in sweet substances such as wine, soda, kool-aid, etc. Almost purenicotine can be obtained from the round flat boxes of snuff. Pour the snuffout into a container and add enough water to cover it all. Let it soak for 24hours then take a handkerchief and stuff it into a cup with the edges of thehand-kerchief over the sides. Pour the shit into the handkerchief so that theliquid is filtered out from the snuff. Squeeze the handkerchief to get outany excess liquid. Discard the snuff and pour the liquid into a smallsaucepan over a low fire. When the liquid has evaporated to about a smallteaspoon of a thick dark substance your poison is finished. A lethal dosageis about two or so drops.

------------------ | NICOTINE SULFATE | ------------------

This is one of the most interesting poisons of mine. It is obtained as aninsect poison found under several names. One of the most common is BlackLeaf 40, found at any garden store. It is 40% nicotine sulfate. It is mosteffective if it is evaporated to a thin syrup. The interesting thing aboutnicotine sulfate is that it is absorbed through the skin. An effective way touse this is to carry it around in a softdrink then "accidentally" spill on



tubing into so that the icy water does not leak. Then the tubing is lead intothe flask containing the calcium chloride where the final product will becollected. Start by heating the acid, potassium, water mixture at a lowtemp, be sure to watch it as it may boil over the top. When the liquidcovers the potassium chloride the action is stopped and the apparatus isallowed to cool. The liquid is put into a container with a good stopper.Light and air cause hydro-cyanic acid to lose its potency. The containershould be wrapped in foil and stored in a refrigerating device. A few dropsof hydrochloric acid will help preserve your cyanic acid.

[ ] How to Make Ammonium Nitrate

Ammonium Nitrate has been used in times of war when dynamite was limited. Inits pure form, ammonium nitrate can be detonated with a 6 dynamite cap at ablast radius of 14,000 feet per second. This file will explain how to purifyammonium nitrate from ordinary fertilizer bought at any garden store at about9.00 for an 80 pound bag. It also will explain some of the uses of it. Sincesome of the uses require a blasting cap, I will first explain how to makesimple blasting caps that should be sufficient enough to detonate theexplosives in this file.

Materials you will need: Source:

----------------------- ------ Nitric Acid (concentrated) Stolen from your school laboratory or bought from a chemical supply house. (Look in phone book under lab supplies)

Mercury Taken out of old air conditioning switches, buy from a chemical supply house, or steal a bunch of mercury thermometers from a grocery store, etc.

First take a bottle and pour 1000 cm (cm cubed) of concentrated, pure nitricacid with a specific weight of 1,42 into the bottle. Then pour 120 grams ofmercury into the acid and let it set for 12 hours. After 12 hours put a

stopper over the bottle (be sure it is acid resistant) and turn the bottleover so the materials mix (do not shake the bottle unless your committingsuicide). After some time fumes may form so be sure to air the container outevery so often. After a few hours pour the mixture into a container with alarge opening filled with 1280 grams of 95% pure alcohol. After a short time,toxic fumes will form. When this stops, the nitrated mercury will lay at thebottom of the bottle. It must be washed with distilled water and dried in thesun on a glass plate. To make a blasting cap, just take a bullet shell (besure itis a little bigger than a 22cal.) and fill it about half full ofnitrated mercury. Insert 2 wires and connect it to a sufficient power supplyand BOOM.

Now on to purifying ammonium nitrate. First take a fairly large pan and pour

several pounds of fertilizer in it. Pour enough wood alcohol (methanol) tocover the fertilizer. Stir it until you can no longer dissolve any more ofthe fertilizer. Next, set another pan on some dry ice, which can be found inthe phone book under "dry ice". Get the pan extremely cold then pour thedissolved fertilizer into it leaving the undissolved particles in the firstpan. The dry ice will cause the ammonium nitrate to precipitate intocrystals. When no more crystals are formed, strain them out with a papertowel and allow them to dry. Store it in a tightly closed container.

Use for Ammonium Nitrate:



Laughing Gas

Laughing gas was one of the first anesthetics used. After a little while of inhaling the patient became so happy he could not keep from laughing.Finally he would drift off to a pleasant sleep. To make it, first you needsome of the ammonium nitrate that you have learned how to purify. Dissolve aquantity of it in a pot. Then evaporate it in a pot over a medium flame untilyou have a heavy brine. Take out a cold metal plate and drop a drop of it onthe plate. If it solidifies almost instantly then pour the brine onto themetal plate. After awhile break it up into pieces and store it in acontainer. To make the gas, put a spoonful into a flask and run some plastictubing from the flask to a plastic bag. Your apparatus should look like this:

_____________________ | Plastic Tubing \ ------- \ _______________ \ / \ / | ------- \ / | | | \ / Plastic | | | \____/ Bag | | | \ | | | \ | | | \ |

| | \______________| | | / \ / \ / Ammonium \ / Nitrate \ / Brine \ / \ --------------------

To generate the gas, heat the flask under a low flame, when the temperaturereaches 480 F the gas will generate. Be careful, the stuff explodes at 600 Fso it is advised that you put a thermometer in the flask, otherwise your

parents will spend thousands on plastic surgery for you. After the plasticbag is full, stop the process and poke a small hole in the bag. Hold it underyour nose and inhale and whee.....have fun..

[ ] Ammonium Nitrate/Aluminum Explosive

This is a simple, dry explosive that requires ammonium nitrate and aluminumpowder (aluminum powder can be made by filing an aluminum rod bought at anyhardware store). To begin, take a handful of ammonium nitrate and put it ona large flat board. Take another board large enough to fit in the palm ofyour hand and rub the pile of ammonium nitrate vigorously until it is a fine

powder. Measure out 4 parts of ammonium nitrate to 1 part aluminum powder.Put these in an air tight container and shake it back and fourth until theyare thoroughly mixed. To make the explosive, you will need one of theblasting caps shown how to make in the beginning of this file. Take a pipewith 2 end caps and fill it almost full of the explosive mixture. Insert theblasting cap just beneath the surface. Connect it to a power source and youhave successfully completed some-thing you can throw at your mother when shebitches at you.



[ ] Zinc Dust/Ammonium Nitrate Igniter

This is a water activated incendiary used in various chemical time delays.To start, you will need ammonium nitrate in which you have purified, and zincdust which may be found at paint stores as bronzing powder or bought from achemical supply house. Measure out 5 parts of zinc powder to 15 parts ofammonium nitrate and mix them thoroughly in an air tight container. Be sureall the materials you are using are extremely dry, even a trace of moisturemay ignite the mixture spontaneously. To make the mixture ignite, simplyplace a drop or so of water on it. A good delay may be made by using thefollowing diagram:

---------------------- | | | Empty Can | | | | | | | | Small hole at | | bottom of can | Tape cans together ____/---------- ----------- \---------- -----------

| Small hole at | | top of can | | | | Empty Can | | | | /\ | | \/ | | Medium sized hole | | on side of can | ----------------------

To start the delay spread the igniter around the bottom can, then fill thetop can with water. The water will begin to drip from the hole in the top can

into the bottom can. When the water fills up enough to reach the hole in theside of the can, water will come out onto the igniter thus igniting it.

Now that you are familiar with ammonium nitrate and some of its uses, go out and experiment with it. It has millions of uses.

[ ] The Art of Deception a Con Man's Game <On-going Series>

[--------------][ Introduction ][--------------]

Most of the cons and scams outlined in this series are of my owndevice or others. The first ones I will talk about are ones to pull onyour friends, and don't worry they shouldn't take it so hard.

[------------------][ Friends and Bars ][------------------]

Well this one is great, but don't pull it on any physics majors,



because they might just figure it out.

[-----------][ Materials ][-----------]

LemonMatchesGlassShallow PlateWaterQuarterA few other items to put in just for confusion.

[---------------][ Bar Situation ][---------------]

<This requires at least three people preferably four.>

Go into the bar with your friend and sit at the bar. Now when the twoof you are sitting at the bar constantly bet on bullshit back and forth untilyou see someone who looks interested. Now don't be noticeable when he peaksan interest in your betting. Now it is time for the burn.

First the set-up1) Fill the plate with water, and put the quarter into the plate under the water.

2) Now hand your friend a lemon, The matches, and some other bullshit you threw in for confusion. Now bet him that he CAN'T do it. <This is important, because when you insult their ego making them think they can't cons work smoother, but this little side note is for the victim mainly when he tries to get in on the action> And when I say do it I mean get the quarter out of the plate.

3) Now state the rules to him. Saying he has to get the quarter out of the plate without getting his fingers wet, and he can use ANY object on the table. Also state that he cannot drink the water out of the plate, and he cannot scoop the quarter out of the water.

4) Now at this point your friend should turn to the interested party and say,"Do you want to get in on this he just bet me 20-200 dollars that using any of these objects on the table showing him the lemon,matches, and other shit you threw in for confusion. That he could get the quarter out of the water without getting his fingers wet, scooping it,drinking it, or pouring it out. Now usually the person

will say hell yes, I'll bet X amount of dollars on this one its easy money. He will most likely try and fail.

5) Now have your third friend who walks in later to hold the money, because he is the "unknown third party" and he holds your money, your friends money, and the suckers money.

6) When he tires himself out trying to get the quarter out of the plate. Then you screw him blue!



[-----------------------------------------][ How to Get the Quarter out of the Plate ][-----------------------------------------]

To get the quarter out of the plate with the water in it. Takeyour drink and finish it, and now pour the ice into your friends glass. Nowtake the lemon and stick the pack of matches into it with the heads facingup,and set the lemon into the water with the match heads sticking up. Nowlight the match heads and set the glass on top of the burning matches asquickly as possible. That is the solution practice it at home what happensis all the water is sucked up into the glass, and now you can pick thequarter out of the empty plate. Now it's time to take the money and run.You will have to experiment with this one awhile to find out exactly how muchwater is sucked up, what depth to pour the water to, and what size plate touse.

[---------------][ In Conclusion ][---------------]

It works quite well, and the only reason I am giving it out isbecause it has been used to it's fullest extent by guess who? in guess who'shometown. Running cons like this one work quite well, and no one is trulycheated. In fact you have made them wiser, and for that they should pay you.

Knowledge is not cheap and nor are lessons in the arcane. One more note topull this one on your friends simply bet them it is a lot easier. Anothernote is that every con should be modified every time it is run. It is thesame as running an unmodified board, add your own touches to it and enhanceit a little. Another added note is the amount bet depends on the place yougo some places people will drop a hundred or more even others people wont.One more note is it is best to have at least 200 dollars on your person. This con isn't run a lot since we figured it out, and are about the only peoplewho ran it. Not to mention you can hit 20 to 30 bars a night and come homewith anywhere from 400-5,000 dollars. My personnel best night only yieldedme about $3800 roughly, but hey it's a living and not to mention we ran a fewothers.

[ ] The Art of Deception a Con Man's Game <On-going Series>

[--------------][ Introduction ][--------------]

Most of the cons and scams outlined in this series are of my owndevice or others. The first ones I will talk about are ones to pull on yourfriends, and don't worry they shouldn't take it so hard.

[------------------][ Taming the Shrew ]

[------------------] This one works great when your out of town. I call it Taming TheShrew, because it works best when run on women. In fact I have neversuccessfully or even heard of it being successfully run on a man <Not aSexist Statement>. This is a checking scam with little to no risk involvementwhatsoever.

[------------------][ Materials Needed ]



[------------------]

Checkbook of PERSONNEL Checks <In a fake name or stolen (see note 1>Victim Car <optional>

Note I - When using stolen checks the victim must be totally unaware, and itis good to have a fake I.D. printed up with the checkholders name on it.

[-----------------][ Running the Con ][-----------------]

To run this con you should go to another nearby city or town. Smalltowns are nice, and work quite well, but we will deal with large cities andbig bucks. O.k. now that you have the checks and hopefully an ID <Makes iteasier> go to the bank in another town, and wait and watch. What you arelooking for is a sucker a lady who looks like she would help a person inneed. One of those pathetic loafs of shit who would help anybody in troublethrough their supreme stupidity and blind gullibility.

1) After you find your mark <Victim> you go up to the tellers window rightnext to hers, and try to cash your check. Now try to cash a check for $1,253dollars. Now the teller won't cash your check especially if your from out oftown, and without ID. Going out of town is a must.

2) Now tell the teller a sob story,"Please my money was stolen and I was robbed they took my wallet and everything in it and I just need $300 dollars for food and gas to wherever your sick aunt is<If you have no ID>, but if you have an ID say,"Please for the love of god my aunt is very sick, and I am driving to see her. I am stuck in this town, because my car broke down and I need $1,253 dollars to get it fixed please, please help me etc...

3) Now no matter how much you beg they won't give you shit unless your in a small town then sometimes. Now make sure when you give the story your mark is overhearing every single word you say. Now leave the bank and sit on the concrete outside and whimper, and say,"I am so sorry auntie please

god help me please."4) Now timing is everything when your outside your mark should overhear you whimpering etc... Now most people will offer to help, and help they can.

5) In your whimpering way say, "Please could you cash a check for me and give me the money to get my car fixed please. I'll write you a check it's just that I have to se my aunt she is very sick and my uncle is leaving on business soon and she will be all alone. I swear to you I am good for the money please, oh please help me."

6) At this point if all goes well she will be eating out of your hand don't look happy look grateful. Now take the money and run <not literally> just

keep thanking her, and go.7) Repeat the process at another bank.

Notes: Now look don't get frustrated not everyone is so helpful, but in a day you should hit about 40 different banks with at least a 50% success rate. So that is $27,400 in a days work not bad. All it takes is a drive to a city and pull the jobs. Then your out of that town a hell of a lot richer and happier, and the police will be lost to who did it. It is also a good idea to go with three friends that way while one is pulling



the con the other two can chat and enjoy themselves also you can alternate.One more note look for your mark outside the bank, and for gods sake don't smoke! Look nice and respectable dress yuppie.

[ ] *Street Fighting Gloves*

[--------------][ Introduction ][--------------]

These are excellent to have handy for self defense. Not only are theyintimidating, but very painful to be hit with.

[-----------][ Materials ][-----------]

Gloves <Leather preferably, but knit will do, and not mittens>Flathead Tacks <See diagram one>Black Electrical Tape

[-------------][ Diagram One ]

[-------------] | | | ---------

This type of tack they are usually silver, and not that hard to find.I believe the correct terminology is Push Tack.

[-------------][ Preparation ][-------------]

These are simple to make, so this should be a relatively short andcomposed file.

1) Take a glove <right or left> and put it on.

2) Pull out a length of tape that will reach from the middle of your hand all the way over the tip of your finger and to the other side of your hand. <This way both sides of your hand will have about two to three inches of tape over them, and the tape will extend to the end of your finger.> Also don't put the tape on yet.

3) Now take the push tacks and punch them through the tape before you put it

on your hand, so that the tacks will have their backs facing your fingers. Now for the space between your knuckles put about four-five tacks, and then put the tape over your hand. <If that wasn't too clear what the meaning here is, the tacks go facing outward and stick to the sticky side of the tape, and then the tape is placed on the finger and over the hand. That way one finger is now armed with four or five spikes.

4) Now repeat the above steps for the other four fingers.

5) Now wrap the tape around your hand six times that way the loose ends from



the tape on your fingers out onto your hands won't come off.

6) Repeat the process for the other glove.

7) Now depending on you, you can add more spikes to the bottom of your hand, the sides, the bottom flat half of your hand, and the lower palm of your hand. This is what I suggest you do for the intimidating look. Also when adding spikes make a fist and hit to make sure they are placed correctly. Also note that spikes on the knuckles hurt when you hit!

[-------------][ Diagram Two ][-------------]

Incidentally this is a diagram of a right handed deathglove.

_____ | | _____ _____ | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | _____ | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |*****| | | | |

|*****| | | |*****| | | | | | | | | |*****| | +++ | | +++ | | +++ | | | |+++++| |+++++| |+++++| | +++ | | | | | | | | | _|*****|__|*****|___|*****|__|*****| | | ______ | | \ \ | | \ \ | | \ \ | | \ \ | | \ \ | |

\ \ | +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ | \ \___/ +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ | \ | \ | \ | \ | \ | \ | \ | \ | \ | \ | ----------------------------------

[-----][ Key ][-----]

+ = Spikes on Glove* = Knuckles/Joints| = The sides of glove- = The bottom of glove



\ = Sides of glove

The spikes can be added any way you want it is a creative art ofmaking fighting gloves or deathgloves, and they have a hell of a lot morestopping power than a bare fist.

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