bmw 645 cap with seal repair new -
TRANSCRIPT
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BMW 645 Coolant leak repair (Cap with Seal Repair and Expanding Coolant Pipe Installation w Pics)
By Michael R. Brown
(Estimated time to complete the job is 6-8 hrs)
• List of parts needed below.
BMW PART P/N PRICE QTY
SECONDARY AIR PIPES (pressure hose assy Y-Pipe) 11 72 7 508 270 $55.28 1
SECONDARY AIR PIPES 1-4 11 61 7 547 185 $53.17 1
SECONDARY AIR PIPES 5-8 11 61 7 547 186 $53.17 1
VENT PIPE( TO HEADS from coolant container) 17 12 7 542 540 $66.27 1
2 LOWER INTAKE SEALS (Intake Manifold Gasket) 11 61 7 521 181 $68.80 2
MISC O-RINGS (Water Pump to Heater Return Pipe ) 11 51 7 507 717 $5.08 1
MISC O-RINGS (O-Ring Water Pipe/Water Pump) 11 53 1 710 048 $6.60 2
COOLANT BMW 82 14 1 467 704 $19.95 1
Cap with Seal 11 14 7 507 278 $72.68 1
Hex bolt with washer (Cap with seal) replacements 07 11 9 905 400 $9.90 12
Profile gasket 11 51 7 508 535 $9.06 1
Return Pipe 11 51 1 439 976 $20.44 1
Feed Pipe 12 31 1 439 988 $17.88 1
O-ring 07 11 9 903 596 $6.10 2
Cooling Pipe Kit (Expanding) (ALL German Auto)760-738-4626
$644.00 1
Note: Price quotes are from the link below and would be much
higher if you purchase the parts from the dealer. You may be able
the find the parts cheaper at other sites too.
http://www.bmwmobiletradition-online.com/index.wws?cookieID=32fa031e4a11ae4899cd2fcde5b94ff3
• Tools needed
- Zip lock bags (box) for nuts, bolts, etc. (Mark the bags to speed up identifying them later.
- Torx socket Set $20 (Wal-Mart)
- Hex socket set (Metric) $20 (Wal-Mart)
- metric socket set (deep) $20
- socket extensions set $10 (Wal-Mart)
- vacuum w/ small diameter attachment
- feeler gauge $5 any automotive store
- telescoping mirror $5 any automotive store
- telescoping magnet $3 any automotive store
- recipicating saw w/ metal cutting blade $55 (Home Depot/Loews)
- small seal pick $10
- Automotive grease (not pictured)
- Cordless drill or ratchet (speeds up the job)
- Drill socket adapter (Wal-Mart) $10
- Phillips screwdriver (not pictured)
- Jack and Jack Stands or Vehicle ramps ( not pictured)
(Warning!!!! Never get under a vehicle supported by only a jack, because, the jack could fail and the vehicle can fall on you and injure or kill
you!!!!!!!!!!!! Always use jack stands!!!!!!!!!!!
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Let’s get started
1. Disconnect battery in the trunk. (Negative terminal only)
2. Jack up the car and remove the front under cover.
3. Remove the gas cap (releases pressure in fuel system)
4. Remove underbody cover (Front only)
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3/8 Extensions
Feeler
gauge
3/8 Metric Short and Deep well
Sockets
3/8 Ratchet
Metric Hex set
Small Pick tool
Telescoping
mirror
Telescoping magnet Torx set
Reciprocating Saw w/
metal cutting blade
Drill w/ 3/8 socket
adapter
5. Remove the cap on the coolant reservoir and
drain the coolant.
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Loosen the
red cap and
drain the
coolant
6. Remove the 4 torx screws and remove top
engine cover
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7. Detach the small vacuum line on the intake tube and loosen the intake
tube clip next to the sensor.
8. Disconnect sensor, unclip and remove the air box
top cover with the intake tube assembly
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9. Remove 3 torx screws from the lower air box
housing, slide out and remove the housing
10. Unclip cabin filter housings, turn plastic
13mm screw and remove cabin filter on driver
side)
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11. Unclip cabin filter housings, turn
plastic 13mm screw, disconnect sensor
and remove cabin filter on passenger
side)
12. Pull up on center cabin filter housing
support brace, slide to driver’s side and
remove
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14. Remove 2 torx screws holding
cabin filter housing to strut tower
driver’s side
13. Remove torx screw holding cabin
filter housing to strut tower passenger
side
15. Turn these plastic nuts counter clockwise a quarter turn to remov
side first).
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15. Turn these plastic nuts counter clockwise a quarter turn to remove the cabin filter housing and weatherstrip (remove driver’s e the cabin filter housing and weatherstrip (remove driver’s
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16. Remove the 6 large torx screws and remove
the strut brace
17. Pull up and lift off the side engine covers (they just snap out).
They are snapped into 2 rubber grommets each side.
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18. Unclip the fuel line by removing the
grey clip, pushing the black piece back and
slide out the fuel line Note: Catch fuel
with a cup or small pan. Also, take a zip-
lock bag and place over line with a rubber
band to catch fuel that come out later.
19. Remove 4 screws on
throttle body, disconnect
sensor and slide off
throttle body (clean it
while you have it off with
carburetor cleaner.
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Note: these will most likely break when removing them. The old 1 piece design was replaced by two pipes. You may have
either 1 pipe with 4 connection or 2 pipes with 2 connections. (shown in the pics below)
20. Unclip the 2 sensors on the thermostat housing.
Pull up on the wire and slide off. Note: After
disconnecting the connector, push the wire back down
to keep from losing the wire.
21. Carefully!!! Squeeze the connections, wiggle until they come
off, and then remove the vent pipe(s) from the intake manifold to
each valve cover. Note: I show both types in my picture.
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Old 1 piece design
New 2 piece design (these are re-useable and have
heat protection padding on them)
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3
Slides off right here
22. Squeeze and remove
vent pipe on the side of the
throttle body opening on
the intake manifold and
slide the other end off the
retaining support. (front of
driver's side valve cover)
23. Using a feeler gauge, gently unclip the round electrical
connector on the (front) of the wiring harness from each
side. It should slide right out. (See pic below for removal)
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Gently slide the feeler gauge under the clip and pull on
the connectors rubber boot and it should come right out.
24. Unclip and remove 2 electrical connectors from
wiring harness. (Passenger’s side) Squeeze and pull
out the round ones. Pull wire up on rectangular
connector and pull the connector off.
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25. Unclip and remove 2 electrical connectors
from wiring harness. (Driver’s side) Squeeze
and pull out the round ones. Pull wire up on
rectangular connector and pull the connector
off.
Supports
26. Remove 4 torx screws on
top of each side of wiring
harness and remove the two
supports
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27. Unclip connectors each side and remove
the 8 hex screws attached to the servo motors
(4 each side)
Remove servo motors from each side. (Mark them to insure you
install them back on the correct side. They should pop out once
the screws are removed, if not, just screw them out. (do not drop
them)
Also, stuff clean rags in the holes or cover them to prevent
anything from falling in holes.
28. Lift up on the wiring harness
to release it and move it outward
on each side to access intake
nuts.
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29. Turn a quarter or a turn,
lift up and disconnect the
round connectors on the rear
valve cover to the wiring
harness on both the driver’s
and passenger’s side
30. Lift out the 3 plugs
on the passenger side to
the ECU box.
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31. Remove the screws to ECU
Cover (I only show 1 screw but
there are 4 or 5),
Slide the white triangle to
unlock and remove the ECU
cover.
32. Loosen and remove (10 each)
11 mm nuts holding down the
intake manifold on both sides. You
may need a deep well 11 mm if
your sockets are short.
(Use a magnet to catch the nuts
so they do not fall down under the
engine)
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Note: The manifold should come right out by pushing the cable and hose down in front of the intake
manifold.
33. . Locate the wires on the driver’s side wiring harness and pull them out of the clip to give you
some slack on the wiring harness to remove the intake manifold.
Note: This picture is just to show you the wires (don’t pay attention to anything else, you are
further alone)
34. On the front of the intake manifold,
unclip and pull the cable down going to
each side’s coils.
35. With the help of a second
person, lift the intake manifold up
and pull forward 2-3 inches to
disconnect two remaining
connectors on the back of intake
manifold. Now lift up to clear the
bolts and remove the intake
manifold slowly.
Note: There are two wiring
harness connectors that need to
be disconnected on the rear of
the intake manifold. You can
unhook them once you pull the
intake manifold forward about 2
inches
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Here is a picture of the intake
manifold out of the car.
36. Remove the hose from the coolant
reservoir to each side of the block (it
might break but, you have the
replacement) The Y connecting the hoses
is plastic.
To coolant
reservoir
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37. Stuff rags in the 8 intake holes on
the block to prevent dirt etc.. from
falling in to the engine and vacuum
the area around the holes.
* Follow the cable to front
connector not pictured
38. Squeeze and
disconnect the Y-vent
pipe lying over the Cap
with Seal. 2 connectors
on rear and 1 in the
front (not in pic). Also
remove the hold down
clamp too.
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39. Disconnect, remove hold down
bolt and pull the aluminum pipe out of
the thermostat housing to rear.
40. Unclip and move the black
cable clips to the cap with seal
(You will re-use them)
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41. Remove 11 bolts remaining
bolts holding the cap with seal
down. (Do not reuse them because
they will break when trying to re-
tighten them after installing the
new cap with seal). The new bolts
from BMW are now steel.
42. Remove the cap with seal and
suck out or use a towel to remove
the gallon of coolant.
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* Note: If you are just replacing the Cap with seal stop here and put everything back
together in reverse order.
Note: If you are going on with the expanding cooling pipe install, follow the instructions
that came with the pipe kit or continue below. There are also 3 videos on YouTube
demonstrating the pipe installation and I suggest you review them several times before
completing the job. Here is the one from All German Auto
http://www.youtube.com/AllGermanAuto#p/a/u/0/UoCED1jyfL4
Expanding Cooling Pipe Install
43. Using a reciprocating saw cut the
OEM cooling pipe in half.
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44. Remove the rear half of
the cooling pipe
45. . Drill a hole in the front half of the
pipe and using a screw driver and a
block; pry the front half of the cooling
pipe out toward the rear.
Note: Ensure you place the seals in properly using the instructions that came with the pipe.
47. Use automotive grease on the
new seals and install them in place
of the old ones
46. Using a pick and mirror;
remove the O-ring seals from the
front and rear holes.
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Note: You are suppose to check the system for leaks before putting everything back together
but, good luck finding the special BMW tool. Also, I did not take off the water pump housing
either. You have the parts on hand if want to do it now or later.
49. Go ahead and put everything back together in reverse order. Starting with the Cap with Seal.
Lessons learned
- Do not reuse the bolts to the Cap with Seal because they are prone to break when re-
tightening them after installing the new part. Also, do not over tighten them. I tightened
them down snug with an extra quarter turn.
- Don’t forget to connect the 2 connector on the rear of the intake manifold
- Be extra carefully removing vent pipes
- Make sure the intake manifold is seated correctly (watch out for the clip on the last bolt
on the drivers side)
- When reinstalling, ensure vent pipes are fully seated. They may take a little manipulating
to get them to clip on!!! This is especially important for the Y -Vent pipe, because it is
under the intake manifold and if it is not seated properly you will have to pull the intake
manifold off again!!!
- If you get a check engine light for increased emissions and the engine idles very rough or
when you press on the gas the engine runs rough; double check your vent pipes and all
connecters.
48. Install the new pipe tight, but do
not over tighten. I tightened it as tight
as I could by hand and used a wrench to
tighten it another quarter turn. This is
how the final install should look.
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- If this happens, check all pipes connections. Once they are seated correctly the check
engine light will go out after driving for a day or so.
* Congrats!!! You have just saved $2000 on the Cap with Seal Job and $9000 on the Coolant Pipe
Job. Both of these parts fail around 80,000 to 100,000 miles and are known problems with the N62
engine. If you have any questions or you live in the Atlanta area and would like for me to complete
the jobs for you, shoot me an email at [email protected]