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1/20/2013Hanoi, Vietnam

Samoan HolidaysThere is no easy or concise way to describe my last few months or so in Samoa. It wassad to leave Falealupo, but I had a good final bingo with the ladies. Also Namaia, theminister, put on a real feast for my last night. Speaking of feasts...I think that putting on a thanksgivingdinner in any country but the US must be a difficultendeavor, but in Falealupo it was a logistical challenge.We were at it from early afternoon until well after dark,maybe 9:30pm or so. That being said, we had a greattime making dinner on thanksgiving and telling peopleabout our American holiday. Luckily we were able to use

an oven at one of the beach fales - that was the key.Here was the epic menu: mashed potatoes, cannedcranberry sauce, fresh baked bread (lovingly mixed andkneaded by me), and roasted chicken. Thethanksgiving bread was ..... Ok. A bit more like salty,thick rolls than nice fluffy bread. Now, we had nomeasuring spoons or cups of any kind and we wereworking with a mysterious oven in extreme heat. so,overall it was a success. But, from then on, eachweekend until I left, we made bread in the oven. Ourbread improved every time. By the end, Brent was

helping with the kneading and the loaves were beautiful.

Photos clockwise from top: one of my buddies in thevillage- he roams free, Brent and I at the beach fale onthanksgiving, eating our feast at 10pm, our lovely oven.

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Cyclone Evan Brent went out to do some research one day in mid-December when a boy stopped himon the road: "Oh where are you going?", he said. A common enough question. When

Brent responded that hewas going to go talk tosome people the boy said,"oh well there is a bigstorm coming today atfive". It was already three,so Brent rushed home. Onthe way home he startedto notice houses beingwrapped up in coconutfronds and plastic. Luckily

I happened to be on thephone with my mom whodid in fact confirm that

cyclone Evan was headed straight for us! Long story short: Evan hit Apia hard, but thereal damage happened when the power company water main broke and leveled theriver flood plane. Many areas in Apia are just windblown and some, those by the river,are all gone. Out in Falealupo, we just experienced some strongwinds and a week of rain. Current news reports however saythat there is another tropical depression (which may develop intoa cyclone) on its way towards Samoa.Christmas with Evan in Apia For the Christmas and New Years holidays we house sat up inthe hills above Apia. We took care of a lovely house, two dogs(Piggie and Sport) and one cat (Goofy) who were all tons of fun.

Tiny light-up tree, with presents arounClockwise from top left: house in Falealupo withfronds and plastic protection, Simba stands firmagainst Evan, Goofy, Piggy and Sport (on chair),

Christmas in the dark

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Although when we arrived there was no water or power, we quickly regained water afterone night. Power was another story. We called, we visited the office, but ultimately ittook Brent talking to some workers on the road. With almost the whole island out ofpower, we heard (both in the newspaper and from personal stories) that there has beenrampant corruption - power workers demanding money from families to fix power lines.

We were lucky and had no problems or bribes to pay. Also we enjoyed a lovelyChristmas brunch at the Orator Hotel - thanks Aunt Barb!

Transition to Vietnam We had a quiet new years and a great couple weeksin Apia....we even watched the new Twilight movie. Then, after three long travel days (admittedly, one ofwhich was in Waikiki) I arrived in Vietnam on Jan14th. Now begins our 7 months apart, and neitherof us really knows what we were thinking when wedecided to do this!

Left: feasting at the Christmas Brunch that we attended at the Orator Hotel inApia. Right: one more shot of us in our church whites

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I had a great orientation in Ho Chi Minh City with the Fulbright program during my firstweek. Now, I'm up in Hanoi trying to work on research permissions and getting back myVietnamese-language sea legs. I've moved into a great place for the month. It is

tucked into a little tiny ally and courtyard (see above). Below pics: left- my kitchen,right- outside CRES.I have met withpeople at my hostinstitution CRES afew times, gotbusiness cardsmade, andcelebrated Obama'sinauguration with a

group called"democrats abroad".Lunar New Year iscoming up on Feb.9th, so I will get tosee Hanoi during the festivities (which means itmay be totally empty and deserted as somehave warned me). We'll see how it goes!