Volume 06 / issue 03 / NoVemBeR 2010 oNliNe at www.iNgeNtacoNNect.com

cYBeR-liBeRtaRiaNism 2.0: a DiscouRse tHeoRY/cRitical Political ecoNomY eXamiNatioNliNcolN DaHlBeRg PRactices oF RealitY: DemolitioN aND RecoNstRuctioN oF a gHost-Village iN isRaelaleXaNDeR KoeNsleR

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cultural Politics

cultural P

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eDitoRsJoHN aRmitageRYaN BisHoPDouglas KellNeR issN 1743-2197Fashion Theory

The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture

Street Style and Its Meaning in Postwar JapanHiroshi Narumi Uniformed Rebellion, Fabricated Identity: A Study of Social History of Red Guards in Military Uniforms during the Chinese Cultural Revolution and BeyondLi Li

How Does Vogue Negotiate Age?: Fashion, the Body, and the Older WomanJulia Twigg The Portrayal of Beauty in Women’s Fashion MagazinesBrian Moeran

Volume 14 Issue 4 December 2010

Onlinewww.ingentaconnect.com

Front cover image: Alexander McQueen, evening dress, black and green silk taffeta with glass jewel embroidery, Fall/Winter 2007, England, lent to MFIT by Alexander McQueen; Christian Dior (John Galliano), evening dress and cross necklace, red coated silk, black ink, and metal, Spring 2006, France, lent to MFIT by Christian Dior, Paris. Photograph courtesy of The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology.

Inside cover image: Givenchy (Riccardo Tisci), evening dress, black felt, silk tulle, wood, glass, and leather, Fall 2006, France, lent to MFIT by Givenchy. Photograph courtesy of The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology.

ISBN 978 184788 654 5ISSN 1362-704X

Fashion Theory Volu

me 14

Issue 4

2010

The Journal of the Social History Society

Volume 7 Issue 4 december 2010

Articles

CHARLOTTE BEHR,

CORNELIE USBORNE

AND SABINE WIEBER

INTRODUCTION:

THE CHALLENGE OF

THE IMAGE PETER BURKE

INTERROGATING THE

EYEWITNESS DAWN ADES

OBJECTS OF ENQUIRY:

AN ART HISTORIAN’S

RESPONSE TO PETER BURKE

CHARLOTTE BEHR

THE POWER AND FUNCTION

OF IMAGES IN NORTHERN

EUROPE DURING THE

MIGRATION PERIOD

MICHAEL J. LEWIS

QUESTIONING THE

ARCHAEOLOGICAL

AUTHORITY OF THE

BAYEUX TAPESTRY

LYNDA NEAD

THE HISTORY IN PICTURES

KATE RETFORD

THE EVIDENCE OF THE

CONVERSATION PIECE:

THOMAS BARDWELL’S

THE BROKE AND BOWES

FAMILIES (1740)

PHILIPP OSTEN

PHOTOGRAPHING

DISABLED CHILDREN IN

IMPERIAL AND WEIMAR

GERMANY

Cultural & Social

History

The Journal of the

Social History Society

Volume 7 Issue 4DECember 2010

Cultural & Social

History

Cu

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olu

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7 / Issue

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2010

7

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COVER DESIGN BY WILLIAM JOSEPH

WILLIAMJOSEPH.CO.UKissn 1478-0038 isbn 978 184788 647 7

Online at WWW.INgENTACONNECT.COM

SPECIAL ISSUEPICTURING THE PASTEDITED BY CHARLOTTE BEHR,

CORNELIE USBORNE AND

SABINE WIEBER

7.3

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ISSN 1740-6315. ISBN 978 1 84788 668 2

THE PREFABRICATED KITCHEN: SUBSTANCE AND SURFACEDEBORAH SCHNEIDERMAN

AT HOME WITH MEDIA TECHNOLOGYKATE CHURCH, JENNY WEIGHT, MARSHA BERRY, AND HUGH MACDONALD

MOTIONMINDEDNESS: THE TRANSPOSITION OF MOVEMENT FROM FACTORY TO HOME IN CHAPLIN’S MODERN TIMESMICHAEL J. GOLEC

THE COLLECTIVE TURKISH HOME IN VIENNA: AESTHETIC NARRATIVES OF MIGRATION AND BELONGING ÖZLEM SAVAŞ

SEVENTEENTH-CENTURY PRONK POPPENHUISEN: DOMESTIC SPACE AND THE RITUAL FUNCTION OF DUTCH DOLLHOUSES FOR WOMENMICHELLE MOSELEY-CHRISTIAN

HO

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ONLINE AT WWW.INGENTACONNECT.COM

CULTURES

WJ1508_BERG_Journal_HomeCultures_7-3_2_0.indd 1

26/8/10 14:23:44

the journal of objects, art and belief

Volume 6 Issue 2 July 2010

Onl ine at www.ingentaconnect .com

material religionjuly 2010

Material R

eligio

n V

olume 6. Issue 2. July 2010.

Cover image: The Sacred Made Real exhibition. © Photo: The National Gallery London.

ISSN 1743-2200ISBN 978 1 84788 674 3

Seeing Religion with New Eyes at the Asian Civilisations MuseumKaren Chin

Religion and Material Culture at the Victoria & Albert Museum of Art and Design: The Perspectives of Diverse Faith CommunitiesEithne Nightingale and Marilyn Greene

articles

Material Religion, Education, and Museums: IntroductionJohn Reeve

Teaching Comparative Religions in India through HeritageShobita Punja

Religious Displays: An Observational Study with a Focus on the Horniman MuseumNeysela Da Silva

in conversation

Religious Aesthetics in the German-speaking WorldInken Prohl

Material Religion/Religious Aesthetics: A Research ProgramHubert Mohr

From the Material to the Imaginative: An Outline of the Aesthetics of Religion Program in MünsterSebastian Schüler

“Aesthetics of Religion” in Switzerland: A Review of the Research FieldJens Schlieter

Special IssueMaterial Religion, Education, and Museums

Photography & Culture

Photography & Culture

Volu

me

3 IS

Sue

3 n

oVem

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2010

Volume 3 ISSue 3 noVember 2010

Volume 3 ISSue 3 n

oVember 2010

Ph

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grap

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Cu

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Articles

“ Picture Me As a Young Woman”: Researching Girls’ Photo Collections from the 1950s and 1960sPenny Tinkler

From Haughty to Nice: How British Fashion Images Changed from the 1950s to the 1960sbecky e. Conekin

“ Nothing Is So Dangerous as Hypothesis”: The Mission Héliographique, Photography, and the Spectacle of History Stephen monteiro

Research in Progress

Perception and Knowledge— In Connection to the Eye and the Sensesmonica Takvam

The Archive

Where Is the Archive? David Zeitlyn, Ananth Garre, C. V. Jawahar, and Andrew Zisserman

Portfolio

Yale Portraits, 1981–1983 Susan lipper

Cover image: Photograph by Penny Klepuszewska from the series living Arrangements (2006). © P. Klepuszewska

ISSn 1751-4517ISbn 978 1 84788 677 4

Cover design by William Josephwilliamjoseph.co.uk

Photograph by Penny Klepuszewska from the series living Arrangements.

living Arrangements explores the large and increasing number of elderly people who live alone, often with deteriorating health and no family support. made in conjunction with the charity, Contact the elderly, the series reveals ‘home’ both as a place of security, warmth and independence but also a place of loneliness, isolation and dependence on others. based in london, Penny Klepuszewska has exhibited widely and was the 2006 recipient of the Sproxton Photography Award.

Online at www.ingentaconnect.com

Volume 05Issue 02

July 2010+

The Senses & Society

The S

ense

s & S

ocie

ty Volum

e 05+Issue 02+

July 2010

ISBN 978 1 84788 648 4 / ISSN 1754-7075

ArticlesSounding Out Vision: Entwining the Senses Nicola Teffer Acoustic Cocooning: How the Car became a Place to Unwind Karin Bijsterveld

Rethinking the Soundscape: A Critical Genealogy of a Key Term in Sound StudiesAri Y. Kelman

Remembering Bad Cooks: Sensuality, Memory, Personhood Jon Holtzman

Sensory Design Reviews

Sensuality and Shag Carpeting: A Design Review of a Postwar Floor CoveringChad Randl

“Sensing Others”Boris Wiseman

Book ReviewsSensing the SouthMark M. Smith, How Race is Made: Slavery, Segregation and the SensesReviewed by Jonathan Reinarz

Reading Materiality and the Senses in Victorian LiteratureWilliam A. Cohen, Embodied: Victorian Literature and the SensesReviewed by Anna Gething

Sensing FilmMartine Beugnet, Cinema and Sensation: French Film and the Art of TransgressionReviewed by Laura McMahon

Resilient ReligionBirgit Meyer (ed.), Media, the Senses, and Religion in Postcolonial PostmodernityReviewed by Richard M. Carp

Exhibition and Conference Reviews

Several Silences Reviewed by Kathryn Hixson

monochrom: #2: Premature Burial as a Field Trial for Near Death Activities Reviewed by Jayme Spinks

Textiles: Art and the Social FabricReviewed by Ruth Mateus-Berr

Front cover imageGetty images

Online at www.ingentaconnect.com

ISSN 1475-9756ISBN 978 1 84788 678 1

TexTIle VOLU

ME 8 ISSU

E 2 JULY 2010

FRONT COVER IMAGEThe BIg Red (deTaIl), owNed By BelfaST CITy CouNCIl. CouRTeSy of CaTheRINe haRpeR.

Volume 8 Issue 2 July 2010

ONLINE AT www.INGENTACONNECT.COM

STAGING MATERIAL, PERFORMING CULTURE KaTheRINe NolaN aNd VICToRIa MITChell

FABRIC IN FILM AND FILM AS FABRIC: MAYA DEREN’S MESHES OF THE AFTERNOONBeCKy peTeRSoN

THE POwER OF FASHION: THE INFLUENCE OF KNITTING DESIGN ON THE DEVELOPMENT OF KNITTING TECHNOLOGYVeSNa MaRIJa poToCIC MaTKoVIC

wEAVING IMPERIAL IDEAS: ICONOGRAPHY AND IDEOLOGY OF THE INCA COCA BAGlauReN fINdley hugheS

REPETITION, PATTERN AND THE DOMESTIC: NOTES ON THE RELATIONSHIP BETwEEN PATTERN AND HOME-MAKINGaNa aRauJo

Textile The Journal of Cloth & Culture

13An international refereed journal for all aspects of design

Online at www.ingentaconnect.com

The

De

sig

n Jo

ur

na

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lum

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su

e 3/ N

OV

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Be

R 2010

Fashion, Culture and ContextRachel Cooper

A Study of the Perfect Suit for Young Men in Hong Kong in Terms of Aesthetics, Comfort and Functionality Travis W. li, Joe s. Au and Raymond W. Au

Evaluative Criteria of Denim Jeans: A Cross-national Study of Functional and Aesthetic AspectsOsmud Rahman, Yan Jiang and Wing-sun liu

Unaided Icon Recognition in Mobile Phones: A Comparative Study with Young UsersCharalambos Koutsourelakis and Konstantinos Chorianopoulos

Conceptualization by Visual and Verbal Representations: An Experience in an Architectural Design Studioseniz Cikis and Fatma Ipek ek

A Heuristic Structure for Collaborative DesignDavid Wang and Isil Oygur

Designing the Modern Interior: From the Victorians to Today edited by Penny Sparke et alGrace lees-maffei

The Creative Business Guide to Running a Graphic Design Business by Cameron S. FooteClive Richards

editorial

Articles

Book Reviews

IsBN 978 1 84788 643 9IssN 1460-6925

The Design JournalVOlume 13Issue 3NOVemBeR 2010

The Design Journal VOlume 13/ Issue 3/ NOVemBeR 2010

Edited by Rachel Cooper

BergJournalsCollection

Online access to an expanding range of high quality, peer-reviewed journals

Volume

23

Issue

4

December2010

Volume

23

Issue

4

December2010

Journal of the International Society for Anthrozoology

anthrozoösA multidisciplinary journal of the interactions of people and animals

anthrozoös

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williamjoseph.co.ukISSN 0892-7936ISBN: 978 1 84788 693 4

Binaries, Boundaries andBullfighting: Multiple andAlternative Human–Animal

Relations in the Spanish Mounted

BullfightKirrilly Thompson

For the Love of Dog: TheHuman–Dog Bond in Rural and

Remote Australian Indigenous

CommunitiesSophie Constable, Roselyn Dixon

and Robert Dixon

Animal Welfare Volunteers: Who

Are They and Why Do They Do

What They Do?Sandra L. Neumann

Illustrating Animals for the Working

Classes: The Penny Magazine(1832–1845)April Louise Austin

Dogs, Cats and Horses: Their

Different Representations in the

Minds of Typical and Clinical

Populations of ChildrenMarie Maurer, Fabienne Delfour,

Marion Wolff and Jean-Louis

Adrien

Does it Bite? The Role of Stimuli

Characteristics on Preschoolers’

Interactions with Robots, Insects

and a Dog Lorraine Howard and Sarah-Jane

Vick

Anthrozoos 2010 Cover 23(4).qxp:Layout 1 10/4/10 10:00 PM Page 1

Digital Archive (Vols 1-19) - Now available! Visit the website for more information

The Berg Journals Collection offers libraries online access to the full text of an expanding range of highly respected interdisciplinary and peer-reviewed journals with a strong focus on culture and the visual arts.• Achoiceof17journalsiscurrentlyavailablewithinthecollection.• Alljournalsofferauthoritativepeer-reviewedcontent,excellent

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ANthrozoös AMultidisciplinaryJournaloftheInteractionsofPeopleandAnimalsJournaloftheInternationalSocietyforAnthrozoology(ISAZ)Editor-in-ChiefAnthony L. Podberscek,UniversityofCambridge,UK

Associate EditorsPatricia K. Anderson,WesternIllinoisUniversity,USAPenny Bernstein,KentStateUniversity,USA

“A ‘must’ journal to own and read for scholars, advocates, and others interested in the growing field of anthrozoology…. Anthrozoös significantly extends our understanding of human-animal relationships and their place in society.”ArnoldArluke,ProfessorofSociologyandAnthropology,NortheasternUniversity,Boston,USA

Avitalforumforacademicdialogueonhuman-animalrelations,Anthrozoösisaquarterly,peer-reviewedjournalthathasenjoyedadistinguishedhistoryasapioneerinthefieldsinceitslaunchin1987.Itaddressesthecharacteristicsandconsequencesofinteractionsandrelationshipsbetweenpeopleandnon-humananimalsacrossareasasvariedasanthropology,ethology,medicine,psychology,veterinarymedicineandzoology.

4 issues per year ISSN: 0892-7936 e-ISSN: 1753-0377 www.bergjournals.com/anthrozoos

Art iN trANsLAtioNEditoriain Boyd Whyte,UniversityofEdinburgh,UKAssociate Editorzoë strother,ColumbiaUniversity,USAManaging Editor Claudia heide,UniversityofEdinburgh,UK

“This online journal represents an ambitious project and offers an innovative resource for the Humanities sector”

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Art in TranslationprovidesqualityEnglishlanguagetranslationsofseminalworkspresentlyavailableonlyintheirsourcelanguages.Itoffersagenuinelyfreshperspectiveonglobalartpractices,historyandtheory,bytacklingtheEnglishlanguagehegemonythathaslongcharacterizedarthistoryandvisualstudies.Trulyglobalinscope,thejournaldemonstratesthevitalityofarthistoricalandvisualculturescholarshipundertakenoutsideofEnglish-speakingterritoriesandcultures.Nootherforumorscholarlyjournalcurrentlyfulfilsthisgroundbreakingaim.

4 issues a year e-ISSN: 1756-1310 www.bergjournals.com/artintranslation

CuLturAL & soCiAL historyTheJournaloftheSocialHistorySocietyEditorsJohn h. Arnold, UniversityofLondon,UK David hopkin, UniversityofOxford,UK

“CulturalandSocialHistory is essential for anyone who wants to follow the most recent debates on the sharpest of the cutting edges of history writing”

LynnHunt,UniversityofCalifornia,LosAngeles,USA

Recentepistemologicalchallengeshaveshakenthecoreassumptionsofmanyhistorians.‘Culture’isnowseenasaproductofsocialpractice,andthereforeattheheartofsocietyitself.Cultural and Social History,theofficialpeer-reviewedjournaloftheSocialHistorySociety(SHS),aimstoaddressdisciplinaryshiftsbetweensocialandculturalhistorians.Thejournalemphasizesthewaysinwhichthe‘social’and‘culture’areinextricableandenableadeeperunderstandingofeachother.

4 issues per year ISSN: 1478-0038 e-ISSN: 1478-0046 www.bergjournals.com/culturalandsocialhistory

Volume

23

Issue

4

December2010

Volume

23

Issue

4

December2010

Journal of the International Society for Anthrozoology

anthrozoösA multidisciplinary journal of the interactions of people and animals

anthrozoös

Vo

lum

e

Issue

Dece

mb

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23

420

10

anthrozoös

Fo

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Jacket design: William Joseph

williamjoseph.co.uk

ISSN 0892-7936

ISBN: 978 1 84788 693 4

Binaries, Boundaries and

Bullfighting: Multiple and

Alternative Human–Animal

Relations in the Spanish Mounted

BullfightKirrilly Thompson

For the Love of Dog: The

Human–Dog Bond in Rural and

Remote Australian Indigenous

CommunitiesSophie Constable, Roselyn Dixon

and Robert Dixon

Animal Welfare Volunteers: Who

Are They and Why Do They Do

What They Do?

Sandra L. Neumann

Illustrating Animals for the Working

Classes: The Penny Magazine

(1832–1845)April Louise Austin

Dogs, Cats and Horses: Their

Different Representations in the

Minds of Typical and Clinical

Populations of Children

Marie Maurer, Fabienne Delfour,

Marion Wolff and Jean-Louis

Adrien

Does it Bite? The Role of Stimuli

Characteristics on Preschoolers’

Interactions with Robots, Insects

and a Dog Lorraine Howard and Sarah-Jane

Vick

Anthrozoos 2010 Cover 23(4).qxp:Layout 1 10/4/10 10:

00 PM Page 1

The Journal of the

Social History Society

Volume 7 Issue 4 december 2010

Articles

CHARLOTTE BEHR,

CORNELIE USBORNE

AND SABINE WIEBER

INTRODUCTION:

THE CHALLENGE OF

THE IMAGE

PETER BURKE

INTERROGATING THE

EYEWITNESS

DAWN ADES

OBJECTS OF ENQUIRY:

AN ART HISTORIAN’S

RESPONSE TO PETER BURKE

CHARLOTTE BEHR

THE POWER AND FUNCTION

OF IMAGES IN NORTHERN

EUROPE DURING THE

MIGRATION PERIOD

MICHAEL J. LEWIS

QUESTIONING THE

ARCHAEOLOGICAL

AUTHORITY OF THE

BAYEUX TAPESTRY

LYNDA NEAD

THE HISTORY IN PICTURES

KATE RETFORD

THE EVIDENCE OF THE

CONVERSATION PIECE:

THOMAS BARDWELL’S

THE BROKE AND BOWES

FAMILIES (1740)

PHILIPP OSTEN

PHOTOGRAPHING

DISABLED CHILDREN IN

IMPERIAL AND WEIMAR

GERMANY

Cultural & Social

History

The Journal of the

Social History Society

Volume 7

Issue 4DECember 2010

Cultural & Social

History

Cu

ltu

ra

l & So

cia

l Hist

or

yV

olu

me

7 / Issue

4 / DE

Ce

mb

er

2010

7

4

COVER DESIGN BY WILLIAM JOSEPH

WILLIAMJOSEPH.CO.UK

issn 1478-0038 isbn 978 184788 647 7

Online at

WWW.INgENTACONNECT.COM

SPECIAL ISSUE

PICTURING THE PAST

EDITED BY CHARLOTTE BEHR,

CORNELIE USBORNE AND

SABINE WIEBER

Winner of the iPA Award for Publishing technology E-Publishing

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CuLturAL PoLitiCs EditorsJohn Armitage, NorthumbriaUniversity,UK ryan Bishop, NationalUniversityofSingapore,Singapore Douglas Kellner, UniversityofCalifornia,LosAngeles,USA

“CulturalPolitics is a welcome and innovative addition… It likes to leap between the theoretical and the concrete, so that it is never boring and often filled with illuminating glimpses into the intellectual and cultural worlds.”

LawrenceGrossberg,UniversityofNorthCarolina,USA

Cultural Politicsisaninternational,refereedjournalthatexplorestheglobalcharacterandeffectsofcontemporarycultureandpolitics.Itanalyzeshowculturalidentities,agenciesandactors,politicalissuesandconflicts,andglobalmediaarelinked,characterized,examinedandresolved.

3 issues a year ISSN: 1743-2197 e-ISSN: 1751-7435 www.bergjournals.com/culturalpolitics

FAshioN PrACtiCETheJournalofDesign,CreativeProcessandtheFashionIndustryEditorssandy Black, LondonCollegeofFashion,UniversityoftheArts,UK Marilyn DeLong, CollegeofDesign,UniversityofMinnesota,USA

“The journal’s inter-disciplinary approach and the fact that it is inclusive of new areas of concern, like sustainability and ethical decision making, will make it very appealing to both researchers and students.”

SandraKeiser,MountMaryCollege,USA

Fashion Practiceisthefirstpeer-reviewedacademicjournaltocoverthefullrangeofcontemporarydesignandmanufacturewithinthecontextofthefashionindustry.Interdisciplinaryinapproach,itprovidesamuch-neededforumfortopicsrangingfromdesigntheorytotheimpactoftechnology,economicsandindustryonfashionpractice.

2 issues per year ISSN: 1756-9370 e-ISSN: 1756-9389 www.bergjournals.com/fashionpractice

Volume 06 / issue 03 / NoVemBeR 2010

oNliNe at www.iNgeNtacoNNect.comcYBeR-liBeRtaRiaNism

2.0: a DiscouRse tHeoRY/

cRitical Political ecoNomY

eXamiNatioNliNcolN DaHlBeRg PRactices oF RealitY: DemolitioN aND RecoNstRuctioN oF a gHost-Village iN isRael

aleXaNDeR KoeNsleR

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issN 1743-2197

thE DEsigN JourNALAnInternationalRefereedJournalofAllAspectsofDesignOfficialJournaloftheEuropeanAcademyofDesignEditorrachel Cooper, LancasterUniversity,UK

Associate Editor Paul Atkinson, SheffieldHallamUniversity,UK

“TheDesignJournalis the essential academic and leading journal in its field. The journal contains timely and relevant research from across the globe and is the prime source of information for practitioners and academics in design, business, branding, marketing communications and strategy.”

MargaretBruce,ManchesterBusinessSchool,UK

Establishedin1998,The Design Journalisaninternationalrefereedjournalcoveringallaspectsofapplieddesigninbothculturalandcommercialcontexts.Itpublishesthought-provokingworkthathasadirectimpactondesignknowledgeandchallengesassumptionsandmethods,whilebeingopen-mindedabouttheevolvingroleofdesign.

4 issues per year ISSN: 1460-6925 e-ISSN: 1756-3062 www.bergjournals.com/designjournal

13An international refereed journal for all aspects of design

Online at www.ingentaconnect.com

The

De

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Fashion, Culture and Context

Rachel Cooper

A Study of the Perfect Suit for

Young Men in Hong Kong in

Terms of Aesthetics, Comfort

and Functionality

Travis W. li, Joe s. Au and

Raymond W. Au

Evaluative Criteria of Denim

Jeans: A Cross-national

Study of Functional and

Aesthetic Aspects

Osmud Rahman, Yan Jiang

and Wing-sun liu

Unaided Icon Recognition in

Mobile Phones: A Comparative

Study with Young Users

Charalambos Koutsourelakis and

Konstantinos Chorianopoulos

Conceptualization by Visual

and Verbal Representations:

An Experience in an

Architectural Design Studio

seniz Cikis and Fatma Ipek ek

A Heuristic Structure for

Collaborative Design

David Wang and Isil Oygur

Designing the Modern Interior:

From the Victorians to Today

edited by Penny Sparke et al

Grace lees-maffei

The Creative Business Guide

to Running a Graphic Design

Business by Cameron S. Foote

Clive Richards

editorial

Articles

Book Reviews

IsBN 978 1 84788 643 9

IssN 1460-6925

The Design Journal

VOlume 13Issue 3NOVemBeR 2010

The Design Journal VOlume 13/ Issue 3/ NOVemBeR 2010

Edited by Rachel Cooper

FashionPracticeThe Journal of Design, Creative Process

& the Fashion IndustryFront and inside cover images:

Red Shake Dress,

J. Bugg, final shoot, 2006.

Photographer: Roy Shakespear.

ISBN 978 184788 445 9

ISSN 1756-9370

EditorialSandy Black

Fashion at the Interface:

Designer—Wearer—Viewer

Jessica Bugg

Scentsory Design: A “Holisitic”

Approach to Fashion as a Vehicle

to Deliver Emotional Well-being

Jenny Tillotson

Chelsea on 5th Avenue:

Hypermasculinity and Gay Clone

Culture in the Retail Brand Practices

of Abercrombie & Fitch

Joseph H. Hancock, II

User Perceptions of Technology

Adoption and Implementation:

A Case Study of Footwear

Production in a Global Market

Juyeon Park and Marilyn DeLong

Innovation and Sustainability at Nike

Marilyn DeLong

Designer Shelley Fox talks

to Penny Martin

Volume 1 Issue 1 May 2009

Online atwww.ingentaconnect.com

WJ876_Berg_Journal_FashionPractice_1-2_3_0.qxd:FT 10.4

20/2/09 17:01 Page 1

DEsigN AND CuLturETheJournaloftheDesignStudiesForumEditorElizabeth guffey, SUNY,Purchase,USA

Associate Editors Carma gorman, SouthernIllinoisUniversity,Carbondale,USA Matt soar, ConcordiaUniversity,Canada sarah teasley,RoyalCollegeofArt,UK

“For so long design has been neglected as an area worthy of serious academic study and cutting edge analysis. At last, a journal to fill the void by finally addressing the enormous impact and relevance of design in contemporary culture.”

AlisonClarke,UniversityofAppliedArtsVienna,Austria

Design and Cultureisapeer-reviewedjournalthatexplores‘design’asaculturalphenomenon.Asaforumforcritique,thejournalfeaturesasubstantialreviewssectionineachissue.Moreover,in-depthessaysanalyzecontemporarydesign,aswellasitsdiscourseandrepresentations.Coveringafieldthatisincreasinglyinterdisciplinary,Design and Cultureprobesdesign’srelationtootheracademicdisciplines,includingmarketing,management,culturalstudies,anthropology,materialculture,geography,visualcultureandpoliticaleconomy.

3 issues a year ISSN: 1754-7075 e-ISSN: 1754-7083 www.bergjournals.com/designandculture

The Journal of the Design Studies Forum

Volume 2 Issue 3 November 2010

Cover image: SoMo3 the Musical Mobile annoying

commuters on London Bridge.

Photo courtesy of Katie Clark.

ISSN 1754-7075ISBN 978 1 84788 661 3

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Volume 2 Issue 3 November 2010

ArticlesFrom Museum of Decorative Arts

to Design Museum: The Case of

the Design museum Gent

Javier Gimeno-Martínez and

Jasmijn Verlinden

Reconsidering “The Crystal Goblet”:

The Underpinnings of Typographic

ConventionEmily McVarish

Statement of Practice

Curating and Creating Design

Collections, from Social Mobiles to

the Museum of Lost Interactions

and Six Speaking Chairs

Graham Pullin

DialogElectrifying the Enlightenment.

Interview with Peter Lunenfeld,

Part IIElizabeth Guffey and Raiford Guins

V

olume 2

Issue 3 N

ovember 2

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0

FAshioN thEoryTheJournalofDressBodyandCultureEditorValerie steele,TheMuseumattheFashionInstituteofTechnology,USA

“A fine addition to academic institutions with cultural studies programs; essential for those with special collections in fashion and costume.”

LibraryJournal

“FashionTheory is needed to help students and professionals understand that fashion has meaning as well as form.”

VivienneWestwood

Launchedin1997,Fashion Theoryiswellestablishedastheleadingpeer-reviewed,international,andinterdisciplinaryjournalfortheanalysisofallaspectsoftheculturalsignificanceofdressandfashionworldwide–fromVoguetoVersace,fromkimonostokilts,andfromfootbindingtobodypiercing.

4 issues per year ISSN: 1362-704X e-ISSN: 1751-7419 www.bergjournals.com/fashiontheory

Fashion Theory The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture

Street Style and Its Meaning

in Postwar JapanHiroshi Narumi Uniformed Rebellion,

Fabricated Identity: A Study of Social History

of Red Guards in Military

Uniforms during the Chinese

Cultural Revolution and Beyond

Li Li

How Does Vogue Negotiate Age?:

Fashion, the Body, and the

Older WomanJulia Twigg The Portrayal of Beauty in Women’s

Fashion MagazinesBrian Moeran

Volume 14 Issue 4 December 2010

Onlinewww.ingentaconnect.com

Front cover image: Alexander McQueen, evening dress, black and green silk

taffeta with glass jewel embroidery, Fall/Winter 2007, England, lent to MFIT by

Alexander McQueen; Christian Dior (John Galliano), evening dress and cross

necklace, red coated silk, black ink, and metal, Spring 2006, France, lent to

MFIT by Christian Dior, Paris. Photograph courtesy of The Museum at the

Fashion Institute of Technology.

Inside cover image: Givenchy (Riccardo Tisci), evening dress, black felt, silk

tulle, wood, glass, and leather, Fall 2006, France, lent to MFIT by Givenchy.

Photograph courtesy of The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology.

ISBN 978 184788 654 5

ISSN 1362-704X

Fashion Theory Volu

me 14

Issue 4

2010

Find out moreSimplyvisitourwebsiteatwww.bergjournals.com

forfurtherinformationontheBergjournalscollection.

institutional subscribers will also benefit from access to Fashion Practice.

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iNtEriors Design,Architecture,CultureEditorsAnne Massey, KingstonUniversity,UK John turpin, WashingtonStateUniversity,USA

“A defining and definitive ‘outing’ of ‘the interior’ as a field of critical inquiry.”

MarquardSmith,UniversityofWestminster,UK

Interiors: Design, Architecture, Culturebringstogetherthebestcriticalworkontheanalysisofalltypesofspacesfromhomesandoffices,toshoppingmallsandschools.Allthesespacesareembeddedwithmeaningandevinceparticular,multi-sensoryandpsychologicalresponses.

Embracingperspectivesfromarangeofdisciplines–includinganthropology,architecture,artanddesignhistory,culturalstudiesandvisualculture–thejournalchallengesdivisionsbetweentheoryandpractice,providinganessentialforumforallthosewithaninterestinthedesign,historyandmeaningofinteriors.

3 issues per year ISSN: 2041-9112 e-ISSN: 2041-9120 www.bergjournals.com/interiors

JourNAL oF MoDErN CrAFt

Editorsglenn Adamson, Victoria&AlbertMuseum,UKEdward s. Cooke, YaleUniversity,USAtanya harrod, IndependentScholar,UK

“This is a worthy addition to collections of scholarly art journals.”

LibraryJournal

The Journal of Modern Craftisthefirstpeer-reviewedinterdisciplinaryandinternationalforumfocusingoncraftinallitshistoricalandcontemporarymanifestations.Specialemphasisisplacedonstudiopracticeandonthetransformationsofindigenousformsofcraftactivitythroughouttheworld.Thejournalalsoexplorestherelevanceofcraftwithinnewmedia,folkart,architecture,design,contemporaryart,andotherfields.

3 issues per year ISSN: 1749-6772 e-ISSN: 1749-6780 www.bergjournals.com/journalofmoderncraft

Volume Issue November

3—3—2010

The Journal of Modern C

raftVolum

e 3—Issue 3—

Novem

ber 2010

Articles

Editorial Introduction: Tools of Trades

Jon Wood

Silence and Tools: Non(verbalizing)

Sculptor’s PracticeJyrki Siukonen

The Tortoise and the Hare: Extempore

Performance and Sculptural Practice in

Eighteenth-century France

Tomas Macsotay

Plastic Pleasures: reconsidering the Practice

of Modeling through Manuals of Sculpture

Technique, c.1880–1933

Ann Compton

Constantin Brancusi and the Image of

Trade: Aspects of Trade in the Realm

of Modern Fine ArtsNina Gülicher

Statement of Practice

Maxwell’s Silver Hammer

Ed Allington

Clay Tools, and Tooling

Cecile Johnson Soliz

New Territories in the Round

Krysten Cunningham and Jon Wood

Front cover images (left to right):

/ Laying on the clay, from Charles Sargeant

Jagger, Modelling and Sculpture in the Making,

New York: The Studio, 1933.

/ Cecile Johnson Soliz finishing Warm, a sculpture

that functions as a wood-burning stove, in

Castellamonte, Italy, 2007.

/ Using a cross-pein hammer to lay veneer

banding. From S. Chappel, Woodworking,

London: Cassel, 1955.

ISSN 1749-6772ISBN 978 1 84788 672 9

Cover design by William Joseph

williamjoseph.co.uk

Volume 3—Issue 3—November 2010

Online at www.ingentaconnect.com

Special IssueTools of Trades:

Articulating Sculptural Practice

Guest edited by Jon Wood

and Jyrki Siukonen

hoME CuLturEsTheJournalofArchitecture,DesignandDomesticSpaceEditorsVictor Buchli, UniversityCollegeLondon,UK Alison Clarke, UniversityofAppliedArts,Vienna,Austria setha Low, CityUniversityofNewYork,USA

“An international journal that brings together and discusses many aspects of the domestic sphere, such as interior design, architecture, consumption, material culture and anthropology. It is surely to be welcomed by scholars and practitioners alike.”

PaulineRae,LibraryManager,RoyalCollegeofArt

Home Culturesisaninterdisciplinary,peer-reviewedjournaldedicatedtothecriticalunderstandingofthedomesticsphere–itsartifacts,spacesandrelations–acrosstimeframesandcultures.Itexplorestherelationshipbetweenbodyandbuilding,consumption,materialculture,themeaningofhome,movingculturesandsocialconsequencesofplanningandarchitecture.

3 issues per year ISSN: 1740-6315 e-ISSN: 1751-7427 www.bergjournals.com/homecultures

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ISSN 1740-6315. ISBN 978 1 84788 668 2

THE PREFABRICATED KITCHEN:

SUBSTANCE AND SURFACE

DEBORAH SCHNEIDERMAN

AT HOME WITH MEDIA

TECHNOLOGYKATE CHURCH, JENNY WEIGHT,

MARSHA BERRY, AND HUGH

MACDONALD

MOTIONMINDEDNESS: THE

TRANSPOSITION OF MOVEMENT

FROM FACTORY TO HOME IN

CHAPLIN’S MODERN TIMES

MICHAEL J. GOLEC

THE COLLECTIVE TURKISH

HOME IN VIENNA: AESTHETIC

NARRATIVES OF MIGRATION

AND BELONGING ÖZLEM SAVAŞ

SEVENTEENTH-CENTURY

PRONK POPPENHUISEN:

DOMESTIC SPACE AND THE

RITUAL FUNCTION OF DUTCH

DOLLHOUSES FOR WOMEN

MICHELLE MOSELEY-CHRISTIAN

HO

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ONLINE AT WWW.INGENTACONNECT.COM

CULTURES

WJ1508_BERG_Journal_HomeCultures_7-3_2_0.indd 1

26/8/10 14:23:44

FooD, CuLturE & soCiEtyAnInternationalJournalofMultidisciplinaryResearchJournaloftheAssociationfortheStudyofFoodandSociety(ASFS)EditorsKen Albala, UniversityofthePacific,USA Lisa heldke, GustavusAdolphusCollege,USA Advisory Editor Warren Belasco, UniversityofMarylandBaltimoreCounty,USA

“The benchmark journal for the field of Food Studies.” HarryWest,Chair,SOASFoodStudiesCentre&Reader,SchoolofOrientalandAfricanStudies,London,UK

Food, Culture and Society isaninternationalpeer-reviewedpublicationdedicatedtoexploringthecomplexrelationshipsamongfood,culture,andsocietyfromnumerousdisciplinesinthehumanities,socialsciences,andsciences,aswellasintheworldoffoodbeyondtheacademy.

4 issues per year ISSN: 1552-8014 e-ISSN: 1751-7443 www.bergjournals.com/foodcultureandsociety

Simplyvisitourwebsiteatwww.bergjournals.com forpricinginformationandtoplaceyourorder.

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Forfurtherinformationandenquiriesemailusat:librarysales@bergpublishers.com

MAtEriAL rELigioNTheJournalofObjects,ArtandBeliefEditorss. Brent Plate, HamiltonCollege,USA Birgit Meyer, VUUniversityAmsterdam,TheNetherlands David Morgan, DukeUniversity,USA Crispin Paine, UniversityCollegeLondon,UK

“Its scholarly articles investigate everything from Sufi arts of urban Senegal to Chinese religions in the American West…Academic libraries are urged to add it.”

LibraryJournal

Material Religionisaninternational,peer-reviewedjournalthatseekstoexploreallaspectsofreligiousmaterialculture–fromimages,devotionalandliturgicalobjectstoritual,ceremonyandpilgrimage.

3 issues per year ISSN: 1743-2200 e-ISSN: 1751-8342 www.bergjournals.com/materialreligion

the journal of objects, art and belief

Volume 6 Issue 2 July 2010

Onl ine at www.ingentaconnect .com

material religionjuly 2010

Material R

eligio

n V

olume 6. Issue 2. July 2010.

Cover image: The Sacred Made Real exhibition.

© Photo: The National Gallery London.

ISSN 1743-2200

ISBN 978 1 84788 674 3

Seeing Religion with

New Eyes at the Asian

Civilisations MuseumKaren Chin

Religion and Material

Culture at the Victoria

& Albert Museum of Art and

Design: The Perspectives

of Diverse Faith CommunitiesEithne Nightingale and Marilyn Greene

articles

Material Religion, Education,

and Museums: Introduction

John Reeve

Teaching Comparative

Religions in India through

HeritageShobita Punja

Religious Displays: An Observational Study

with a Focus on the Horniman MuseumNeysela Da Silva

in conversation

Religious Aesthetics in the

German-speaking World

Inken Prohl

Material Religion/Religious

Aesthetics: A Research

ProgramHubert Mohr

From the Material to the

Imaginative: An Outline of

the Aesthetics of Religion

Program in MünsterSebastian Schüler

“Aesthetics of Religion”

in Switzerland: A Review

of the Research Field

Jens Schlieter

Special IssueMaterial Religion, Education,

and Museums

runner-up for the Council of Editors of Learned Journals ‘Best New Journal’ Award in 2006

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InstitutionalfreetrialsareavailableforallBergJournals.Requestafreetrialtodayat:www.ingentaconnect.com/content/berg

tExtiLETheJournalofClothandCultureEditorsCatherine harper, UniversityofBrighton,UK Doran ross,FowlerMuseumatUCLA,LosAngeles,USA

“Any university or college with an interest in textiles should subscribe to it and make it easily available.”

TimesHigherEducation

Textileisaninternationalandpeer-reviewedjournalthatbringstogetherresearchintextilestudiesinaninnovativeanddistinctiveacademicforum.Itprovidesaplatformforpointsofdeparturebetweenartandcraft;genderandidentity;cloth,bodyandarchitecture;labourandtechnology;techno-designandpractice–allsituatedwithinthebroadercontextsofmaterialandvisualculture.

3 issues per year ISSN: 1475-9756 e-ISSN: 1751-8350 www.bergjournals.com/textile

ISSN 1475-9756ISBN 978 1 84788 678 1

TexTIle VOLU

ME 8 ISSU

E 2 JULY 2010

FRONT COVER IMAGEThe BIg Red (deTaIl), owNed By BelfaST CITy

CouNCIl. CouRTeSy of CaTheRINe haRpeR.

Volume 8 Issue 2 July 2010

ONLINE AT www.INGENTACONNECT.COM

STAGING MATERIAL, PERFORMING CULTURE KaTheRINe NolaN aNd VICToRIa MITChell

FABRIC IN FILM AND FILM

AS FABRIC: MAYA DEREN’S

MESHES OF THE AFTERNOON

BeCKy peTeRSoN

THE POwER OF FASHION:

THE INFLUENCE OF KNITTING

DESIGN ON THE DEVELOPMENT

OF KNITTING TECHNOLOGY

VeSNa MaRIJa poToCIC MaTKoVIC

wEAVING IMPERIAL IDEAS:

ICONOGRAPHY AND IDEOLOGY

OF THE INCA COCA BAGlauReN fINdley hugheS

REPETITION, PATTERN AND

THE DOMESTIC: NOTES ON

THE RELATIONSHIP BETwEEN

PATTERN AND HOME-MAKING

aNa aRauJo

Textile The Journal of Cloth & Culture

tiME & MiNDTheJournalofArchaeology,ConsciousnessandCultureEditorsPaul Devereux, RoyalCollegeofArt,UKJohn Baker,MoorparkCollege,USANeil Mortimer,FormerEditor,3rd StoneJohannes Loubser,StratumUnlimited,USAandUniversityofWiltwatersand,SAgeorge Nash,BristolUniversity,UK

‘Intellectually provocative with wide appeal. The articles are intriguing and the Advisory Board is impressive in terms of the diversity of perspectives represented and its scholarly excellence.”

WendyAshmore,UniversityofCaliforniaatRiverside

Peer-reviewed,livelyandhighlyinterdisciplinary,Time and Mind presentsnewperspectivesonlandscape,monuments,peopleandculture.Itfeaturesscholarlyworkaddressingcognitiveaspectsofdisciplinessuchasarchaeology,anthropologyandpsychologythatcanshapeourunderstandingofarchaeologicalsites,landscapesandpre-modernworldviews.

3 issues per year ISSN: 1751-696X e-ISSN: 1751-6978 www.bergjournals.com/timeandmind

Volume 03Online at

www.ingentaconnect.com

Issue 03

November2010

The Journal of Archaeology, Consciousness and Culture

Tim

e & M

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3 Issu

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3 N

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Volume 03

Issue 03

November2010

Front cover image:

Courtesy of Pete Glastonbury

ISBN 978 1 84788 651 4

Articles Anthropology and

Parapsychology:

Still Hostile Sisters

in Science? David Luke

Deciphering Ancient

Maya Ethno-Metaphysics:

Conventional Icons

Signifying the “King-as-

Conduit” Complex

Marc G. Blainey

Investigation of a

“Sun Roll” Effect in

Relation to Silbury Hill

Steve Marshall and

George Currie

From Homininity to

Humanity: Compassion

from the Earliest Archaics

to Modern Humans

P. A. Spikins, H. E.

Rutherford and A. P.

Needham

Book Reviews The Architectureof Death: Neolithic

Chambered Tombs

in Wales Timothy Darvill

Aesthetics and Rock Art,

IIIrd SymposiumGeorge Nash

Cave Paintings and the

Human Spirit: The Origin

of Creativity and Belief

Stanley Krippner

Antiquaries and Archaists: The Past

in the Past, The Past

in the PresentJenny Walklate

The Dawn of Astrology:

A Cultural History of

Western Astrology

Anthony Aveni

Image and Audience:

Rethinking Prehistoric Art

Ronald Hutton

Caves and the Ancient

Greek Mind: Descending

Underground in the

Search for Ultimate Truth

Jenny Wallensten

sENsEs & soCiEtyEditorsMichael Bull, UniversityofSussex,UK Paul gilroy, LondonSchoolofEconomics,UK David howes, ConcordiaUniversity,Canada Douglas Kahn, UniversityofNewSouthWales,Australia

“‘For libraries with strong humanities collections”

LibraryJournal

Peer-reviewedandinternational,Senses and Societyexploresallaspectsoftheintersectionbetweencultureandthesenses.Itbringstogethergroundbreakingworkinthehumanitiesandsocialsciencesandincorporatescutting-edgedevelopmentsinart,design,andarchitecture.

3 issues per year ISSN: 1745-8927 e-ISSN: 1745-8935 www.bergjournals.com/sensesandsociety

Volume 05Issue 02

July 2010+

The Senses & Society

The S

ense

s & S

ocie

ty Volum

e 05+Issue 02+

July 2010

ISBN 978 1 84788 648 4 / ISSN 1754-7075

ArticlesSounding Out Vision:

Entwining the Senses

Nicola Teffer Acoustic Cocooning:

How the Car became

a Place to Unwind Karin Bijsterveld

Rethinking the Soundscape: A Critical

Genealogy of a Key

Term in Sound Studies

Ari Y. Kelman

Remembering Bad

Cooks: Sensuality,

Memory, Personhood

Jon Holtzman

Sensory Design Reviews

Sensuality and Shag

Carpeting: A Design

Review of a Postwar

Floor CoveringChad Randl

“Sensing Others”Boris Wiseman

Book Reviews

Sensing the SouthMark M. Smith, How

Race is Made: Slavery,

Segregation and the

SensesReviewed by Jonathan Reinarz

Reading Materiality

and the Senses in Victorian LiteratureWilliam A. Cohen, Embodied: Victorian

Literature and the Senses

Reviewed by Anna Gething

Sensing FilmMartine Beugnet, Cinema

and Sensation: French

Film and the Art of

TransgressionReviewed by Laura McMahon

Resilient ReligionBirgit Meyer (ed.), Media, the Senses, and

Religion in Postcolonial

PostmodernityReviewed by Richard M. Carp

Exhibition and Conference Reviews

Several Silences Reviewed by Kathryn Hixson

monochrom: #2: Premature Burial as

a Field Trial for Near

Death Activities Reviewed by Jayme Spinks

Textiles: Art and the

Social FabricReviewed by Ruth Mateus-Berr

Front cover imageGetty images

Online at www.ingentaconnect.com

FREE 30-day trials available

Winner of the ALPsP/Charlesworth Award for ‘Best New Journal in 2005’

PhotogrAPhy & CuLturEEditorsKathy Kubicki, UniversityCollegefortheCreativeArtsatFarnham,UK thy Phu, UniversityofWesternOntario,Canada Val Williams, UniversityoftheArts,PhotographyandtheArchiveResearchCentreatLondonCollegeofCommunication,UK

“PhotographyandCulture creates a new context for reflection on the nature of photography, its practices, meanings, and private/public worlds. In doing so it will help to redefine the study of photography as something broader than it is often taken to be.”

JenniferG.Tucker,WesleyanUniversity,USA

Aninternational,interdisciplinary,peer-reviewedjournalthatfocusesonthehistorical,technological,cultural,andsocialaspectsofphotography.Itintegratesarthistoricalapproacheswithnewerworkfromvisualculture,communicationandanthropology,media,culturalandmuseumstudies,fashionanddesign,aswellashistoryandsociology.

3 issues per year ISSN: 1751-4517 e-ISSN: 1751-4525 www.bergjournals.com/photographyandculture

Photography & Culture

Photography & Culture

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2010

Volume 3 ISSue 3 noVember 2010

Volume 3 ISSue 3 n

oVember 2010

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Articles

“ Picture Me As a Young Woman”:

Researching Girls’ Photo Collections from the 1950s and 1960sPenny Tinkler

From Haughty to Nice: How British Fashion Images Changed from the 1950s to the 1960sbecky e. Conekin

“ Nothing Is So Dangerous as Hypothesis”: The Mission Héliographique, Photography, and the Spectacle

of History Stephen monteiro

Research in Progress

Perception and Knowledge— In Connection to the Eye and the Sensesmonica Takvam

The Archive

Where Is the Archive? David Zeitlyn, Ananth Garre, C. V. Jawahar, and Andrew Zisserman

Portfolio

Yale Portraits, 1981–1983 Susan lipper

Cover image: Photograph by Penny Klepuszewska from the series

living Arrangements (2006). © P. Klepuszewska

ISSn 1751-4517ISbn 978 1 84788 677 4

Cover design by William Josephwilliamjoseph.co.uk

Photograph by Penny Klepuszewska from the series living Arrangements.

living Arrangements explores the large and

increasing number of elderly people who live alone,

often with deteriorating health and no family

support. made in conjunction with the charity,

Contact the elderly, the series reveals ‘home’ both

as a place of security, warmth and independence but

also a place of loneliness, isolation and dependence

on others. based in london, Penny Klepuszewska

has exhibited widely and was the 2006 recipient of

the Sproxton Photography Award.

Online at www.ingentaconnect.com

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The Berg Fashion Library is the first online resource to provide accessto interdisciplinary and integrated text, image, and journal content on world dress and fashion.

Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion(July 2010) 3.6 million words in 760 original articles on countries, themes, cultural groups, anddress types written by over 600 internationalexperts

E-Book collection: full text of c.60 Berg fashion e-books

Over 1,600 images from the V&A Museum’sinternationally renowned fashion collection and2,000 from the print Encyclopedia

Museums Directory: listing of dress collections in museums around the world

A-Z of Fashion and The Dictionary of FashionHistory

Updated at least three times a year

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BergFashionLibraryThe authority on world dress

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Medal for outstanding reference

A5 BFL 12.10.qxp 26/01/2011 14:26 Page 1Links to Berg fashion e-journals for mutual subscribers from March 2011