behind the scenes - lonely planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/andalucia-8-index.pdf · castillo...

381381

OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Nancy Barker, Dianne & Virgil Bodeen, Rich-ard Dinkeldein, Laura Gravina, David Hutch-eson, Anne Jovaras, Bernard Jovaras, John Kearins, Tim Kuemmerle, Graham Newton, Juhana Rantavuori, Derek Sime, Gary Stocker, Jacques Tribier

AUTHOR THANKS Isabella NobleA huge gracias to all the andaluces (and guiris) who helped me out on the road. A big thank you to Annie and Pepi in Vejer for fantastic foodie tips, to Antonio for the good times in Écija and to Tes-sa for being the ultimate Gibraltar insider. Special thanks to Papi and Jacky, my favourite research assistants and roadtripping companions, and to my fabulous co-authors. As always, thanks to Susan Forsyth, for starting the Tarifa trend.

John NobleSpecial thanks to Izzy for sharing the whole experience, to Tito for good conversation and a fascinating film, and to all the so-welcoming andaluces who helped me along the way.

Josephine QuinteroJosephine would like to extend a mighty grand gracias to the numerous staff at the various tourist offices. She would also like to thank Robin Chapman for joining her in all that dining and wining research, as well as Jorge Guzman, a valuable contact in Málaga along with all her Spanish malagueño friends who provided endless advice and tips. Finally she would like to thank Destination Editor Lorna Parkes and everyone else involved in the title at Lonely Planet.

Brendan SainsburyThanks to all the untold bus drivers, chefs, hotel receptionists, tour guides and flamenco singers who helped me in this research.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC,Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘UpdatedWorld Map of the Köppen-Geiger ClimateClassification’, Hydrology and Earth SystemSciences, 11, 1633–44.

Illustrations pp52-3, 200-1 & 252-3 by Javier Zarracina.

Cover photograph: Plaza de España, Parque de María Luisa, Seville, Alan Copson / AWL ©.

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

382

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

THIS BOOK This 8th edition of Lonely Planet’s Andalucía guidebook was researched and written by Isabella Noble, John Noble, Jo-sephine Quintero and Brendan Sainsbury. The 7th edition was written by Brendan Sainsbury, Josephine Quintero and Daniel C Schechter, and the 6th was written by Anthony Ham, Stuart Butler, Vesna Maric, John Noble and Zora O’Neill.

This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editors Jo Cooke, Lorna ParkesProduct Editor Elizabeth JonesSenior Cartographer Anthony PhelanBook Designer Cam AshleyAssisting Editors Imogen Bannister, Kellie Langdon, Bella Li, Charlotte Orr, Victoria Smith, Gabrielle

Stefanos, Ross Taylor, Tracy WhitmeyCartographers Piotr Czajkowski, Julie DodkinsCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Sasha Baskett, Daniel Corbett, Brendan Dempsey, Ryan Evans, Anna Harris, Andi Jones, Kate Mathews, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Darren O’Connell, Martine Power, Jessica Rose, Diana Saengkham, Dianne Schallmeiner, Ellie Simpson, Angela Tinson

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 383

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Aaccommodation 358-60,

see also individual locations

language 373activities 23-5, 36-40, 82,

see also individual activities & locations

Agua Amarga 303air travel 367-8airports 367-8Alájar 96-7Alcalá la Real 226Alcaracejos 217Alcázar (Seville) 56-7, 59Alfarnate 190Alfarnatejo 190Algeciras 149Alhambra 9, 250-5, 328-9,

252-3, 254, 8-9, 252-3Almería 288-94, 290

accommodation 291drinking & nightlife 293entertainment 293festivals & events 291food 292-3history 288sights 288-9, 291tapas 292travel to/from 293-4travel within 294

Almería province 46, 285-308, 286-7

accommodation 285car travel 285food 33, 285highlights 286-7

Almodóvar del Río 216Almohads 327-8Almonaster la Real 98Almoravids 327Almuñécar 283-4

animals rights 348Antequera 185-8apes 153, 335Aracena 20, 93-5, 94archaeological sites

Acinipo 184-5Baelo Claudia 148Casa del Obispo 109Cueva de la Pileta 184Cueva de los Letreros 308Dolmen de Menga 186Dolmen de Viera 186Dolmen del Romeral 186Itálica 98Los Millares 296-7Madinat al-Zahra 205-6,

327Necrópolis Romana

99, 101Teatro Romano (Cádiz) 109Templo Romano

(Córdoba) 204-5architecture 21, 231, 325-31

books 330Arcos de la Frontera 131-3,

135, 132Ardales 185area codes 364Arroyo Frío 240art galleries, see museums

& galleriesarts 15, 22, 51, 266, 344-7ATMs 363Ayamonte 87

BBaelo Claudia 148Baena 211Baeza 16, 227-31, 228, 16Barbary apes 153, 335Baroque architecture 330-1Barranco de Poqueira 278bathrooms 365beaches 14, 21, 84

Cabo de Gata 300, 13Cala Carbón 300

Cala de Enmedio 300Cala de la Media Luna

300Calas del Barronal 300El Palmar 141El Puerto de Santa María

128Flecha del Rompido 86Isla Canela 87Isla Cristina 86-7La Carihuela 171Los Caños de Meca 141Matalascañas 87Mojácar Playa 303-4Playa Burriana 193Playa Calahonda 193Playa Central 86Playa Chica 143Playa de la Caleta 112Playa de la Charca 282Playa de la Gaviota 86Playa de la Guardia 282Playa de la Malagueta 163Playa de la Muralla 128Playa de la Puntilla 128Playa de la Rada 175Playa de la Victoria 113Playa de las Cortinas 141Playa de los Genoveses

300Playa de los Lances 143Playa de Mónsul 300Playa de Pedregalejo 163Playa de San Cristóbal 283Playa de Santa Catalina

128Playa de Valdelagrana 128Playa de Valdevaqueros

143Playa del Barronal 300Playa del Cañuelo 193Playa del Faro 141Playa del Playazo 300,

301Playa el Palo 163Playa Fuentebravía 128Playa Puerta del Mar 283

Playa San Pedro 300, 301Playamar 171Punta del Moral 87Punta Paloma 143Tarifa 143Zahara de los Atunes

142, 15beer 355-6Belalcázar 217Benalmádena 170-2Benaoján 184Bérchules 281bicycle travel, see cyclingbirds 336-7birdwatching 38, 336-7

Centro de Fauna Silvestre Collado del Almendral 240-1

Centro de Visitantes José Antonio Valverde 89

El Rocío 90, 91Gaucín 185Gibraltar 154Laguna de Fuente de

Piedra 189Parque Natural Sierra de

Andújar 226-7Peñón de Zaframagón 138Sierra Nevada 275

boat travel 369bodegas

El Puerto de Santa María 127, 128

Jerez de la Frontera 120-1Laujar de Andarax 297Montilla 212Sanlúcar de Barrameda

130Bolonia 148books 310, see also

literaturearchitecture 330food 353history 316, 322wine 353

border crossings 150, 149, 368

384

IND

EX B-C

Bubión 278budget 19bullfighting 182, 321,

348-50bullrings 349

Plaza de Toros (El Puerto de Santa María) 127

Plaza de Toros (Mijas) 177

Plaza de Toros (Ronda) 179

Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza 64

bus travel 19, 368, 369-70business hours 363butterflies 171

CCabo de Gata 13, 298-303,

299, 13Cabo de Trafalgar 141Cádiz 13, 109, 112-18, 320,

114-15, 13accommodation 113activities 112-13courses 113drinking & nightlife 117entertainment 117-18festivals & events 112food 113, 116-17internet resources 118sights 109, 112travel to/from 118travel within 118

Cádiz province 45, 108-50, 110-11

accommodation 108beaches 108car travel 108food 32highlights 110-11

Calle Sierpes 65Caminito del Rey 20, 187camping grounds 359Cano, Alonso 330Capileira 278-9Capilla Real 257car hire 370-1car travel 19, 368, 370-1,

see also driving tourslanguage 377

Carmona 99-102, 100Carnaval 23, 112Carretera del Suspiro del

Moro 277

casa rurales 360Castaño del Robledo 97-8castles & forts 42, see also

palaces & mansionsAlcazaba (Almería) 288Alcazaba (Antequera)

186Alcazaba (Granada) 254Alcazaba (Guadix) 271Alcazaba (Málaga)

157, 160Alcázar (Jerez de la

Frontera) 119Alcázar (Seville) 56-7, 59 Alcázar de la Puerta de

Sevilla 99Alcázar de los Reyes

Cristianos 202-3Alhambra 9, 250-5,

328-9, 252-3, 254, 8-9, 252-3

Castillo Árabe (Constantina) 107

Castillo Árabe (Olvera) 138

Castillo Árabe (Salobreña) 282

Castillo de Albánchez 232

Castillo de Almodóvar 216

Castillo de Aracena 93Castillo de Gibralfaro

160Castillo de Guzmán 143Castillo de Jimena 148Castillo de la Calahorra

272Castillo de la Yedra 237Castillo de las

Almadrabas 142Castillo de los Duques

132Castillo de los

Guzmán 91Castillo de los

Sotomayor 217Castillo de

Miramontes 217Castillo de Priego de

Córdoba 214Castillo de San Jorge 66Castillo de San Marcos

125-6Castillo de San Miguel

283Castillo de San

Sebastián 112Castillo de Santa

Catalina (Cádiz) 112Castillo de Santa

Catalina (Jaén) 222-3

Castillo de Santiago 130Castillo de Segura 243Castillo de Vejer de la

Frontera 139-40Castillo de Vélez Blanco

307Castillo de Zuheros 212Castillo del Marqués de

los Vélez 307Fortaleza de la Mota 226Moorish Castle

(Gibraltar) 153cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralscaves 42

Barriada de las Cuevas 271

Cueva de la Pileta 184Cueva de los Letreros

308Cueva de los

Murciélagos 213Cueva de Nerja 192Cuevas de Sorbas 295Cuevas del Almanzora

307Gruta de las

Maravillas 93Guadix 271Sacromonte 260St Michael’s Cave 153

Cazalla de la Sierra 105, 107

Cazorla 237-8cell phones 364Centro Lorca 20, 270ceramics 236children, travel with 41-3

Costa del Sol 171Seville 71

Christian architecture 329-31, see also churches & cathedrals

Christian art 345churches & cathedrals

329-31Basílica de La Macarena

68Basílica Menor de Santa

María de la Asunción 132-3

Basilica San Juan de Díos 259

Capilla de los Benavides 229

Catedral de Baeza 227-8Catedral de Cádiz 109Catedral de Granada 257Catedral de Guadix 271Catedral de la Asunción

222

Catedral de la Encarnación 288-9

Catedral de la Sierra 217Catedral de Málaga 157Catedral de San

Salvador 119Catedral de Sevilla 9,

50-6, 52-3, 9, 52-3Colegiata de Santa María

de la Asunción 102Colegiata de Santa María

la Mayor (Antequera) 186

Colegiata del Salvador 256

Ermita de Nuestra Señora Reina de los Ángeles 96

Ermita del Rocío 90Iglesia de la Asunción 242Iglesia de la Aurora 214Iglesia de la Santa Cruz

228Iglesia de Nuestra

Señora de la O 129Iglesia de San Francisco

214Iglesia de San Jorge 85Iglesia de San Juan

(Almería) 288Iglesia de San Juan

(Écija) 104Iglesia de San Martín

(Almonaster la Real) 98

Iglesia de San Martín (Niebla) 91

Iglesia de San Mateo 143Iglesia de San

Pablo-Santo Domingo 104

Iglesia de San Pedro 133Iglesia de Santa Ana 256Iglesia de Santa María

(Cazorla) 237Iglesia de Santa María

(Écija) 104Iglesia de Santa María de

Granada 91Iglesia de Santa María de

la Alhambra 254Iglesia de Santa María de

los Reales Alcázares 234

Iglesia de Santa María de Mesa 136

Iglesia de Santa María La Mayor 179

Iglesia del Carmen 187Iglesia del Divino

Salvador 139Iglesia Nuestra Señora

de Gracia 271


385IN

DEX C

-F Iglesia Parroquial

Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación 138

Iglesia Prioral de Nuestra Señora del Mayor Dolor 93

Iglesia Prioral de Santa María de la Asunción 99

Parroquia de la Asunción 214

Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de la O 67

Parroquia de Santa Ana 67

Parroquia Mayor de Santa Cruz 104

Parroquia del Divino Salvador 65

Sacra Capilla de El Salvador 232

Santa Iglesia Catedral de Córdoba 202

Santuario de la Virgen de la Cabeza 226

Santuario de Nuestra Señora de la Cinta 82

Seville cathedral 9, 50-6, 52-3, 9, 52-3

churros 31cinema 347, see also filmsCivil War 321-2climate 18, 23-5coffee 356cold soups 354Colón, Cristóbal, see

Columbus, ChristopherColumbus, Christopher

50-1, 84, 85, 319Comares 190Cómpeta 190-1Concurso de Cante Jondo

342Constantina 107convents

Convento de San Francisco 254

Convento de Santa Clara (Carmona) 99

Córdoba 198-211, 204accommodation 207-8drinking 209entertainment 209festivals & events 206food 208-9history 198patios 202shopping 209sights 198-206tourist information 210travel to/from 210travel within 210-11

Córdoba province 45, 195-218, 196-7


Costa de la Luz 14, 86-7, 139-50, 15

Costa del Sol 170-8Costa Tropical 282-4courses

cooking 31, 69, 140flamenco 69language 69, 113, 140,

361-2credit cards 363Cueva de la Pileta 184Cueva de los Letreros 308Cueva de Nerja 192Cuevas de Sorbas 295Cuevas del Almanzora

307currency 18, 150customs regulations 360cycling 37, 369, see also

vías verdes (greenways)

Ddance 338-43, see also

flamencodebit cards 363del Amo, Tito 305, 306Desfiladero de

Despeñaperros 225-6Desierto de Tabernas

294-5disabilities, travellers

with 365discount cards 360diving 37-8

Cabo de Gata 300-1La Herradura 284Nerja 193Tarifa 143

Dolmen de Menga 186Dolmen de Viera 186Dolmen del Romeral 186dolphin-watching 145, 154drinks 354-6

language 374-5driving licences 370driving tours, see also car

travelSierra Norte de Sevilla

106, 106white towns 134, 134

Duque de Medina Sidonia 323

Eeagles 336Écija 103-5economy 310-11El Altiplano 271-2El Burgo 183El Chorro 185, 187El Fraile 301El Palmar 141El Pedroso 107El Pozo de los Frailes 302El Puerto de Santa María

125-9, 126El Rinconcillo 266El Rocío 90-2El Yelmo 242electricity 150, 360Embalse del Conde del

Guadalhorce 185Embalse del Tranco 240emergencies 19

language 375Estepona 175-7events, see festivals &

eventsexchange rates 19

FFeria de Abril 23, 70, 2Feria del Caballo 24, 122, 24Fernández, Alejo 51ferry travel 369Festival de Jerez 23, 122festivals & events 23-5

Bienal de Flamenco 25, 70

Bluescazorla 238Carnaval 23, 112Carreras de Caballos 130Corpus Christi 25, 181Cruces de Mayo 206Día de la Cruz 261Día de los Reyes Magos

23Feria de Abril 23, 70, 2Feria de Baeza 229Feria de Fuengirola 173Feria de la Manzanilla 130Feria de la Tapa 25Feria de la Virgen de la

Luz 145Feria de Málaga 25,

163-4Feria de Mayo 206Feria de Pedro Romero

25, 181Feria de Primavera

y Fiestas del Vino Fino 127

Feria de San Miguel 133Feria del Caballo 24,

122, 24Feria del Corpus Cristi

260-1Festival de Jerez 23, 122Festival de la Guitarra de

Córdoba 206Festival Internacional de

la Guitarra 25Festival Internacional del

Aire 242Festival Internacional

de Música y Danza (Granada) 261

Festival Internacional de Música y Danza Ciudad de Úbeda 235

Festividad Virgen del Carmen 127

Fiesta de los Patios de Córdoba 24-5, 206

Fiesta Mayor de Verdiales 25, 163

Fiestas Colombinas 82Fiestas de Otoño 25Jazz en la Costa 283Moros y Cristianos 304Moto GP 24Motorcycle Grand

Prix 122Noche de San Juan

193, 304Noche del Vino 190Real Feria de Agosto 187Romería de la Virgen de

la Cabeza 226Romería del Rocío 24,

90, 130Semana Santa

(Antequera) 187Semana Santa

(Arcos de la Frontera) 133

Semana Santa (Baeza) 229

Semana Santa (Córdoba) 206

Semana Santa (Granada) 260

Semana Santa (Jaén) 224

Semana Santa (Málaga) 163

Semana Santa (Seville) 17, 23, 69-70, 17, 24

Semana Santa (Úbeda) 235

Velada de Nuestra Señora de la Oliva 140

Virgen del Carmen 193films 310, see also cinema

386

IND

EX F-H

flamenco 12, 62-3, 338-43, 12, 62-3

Almería 293Cádiz 117, 341Córdoba 203-4courses 69El Puerto de Santa

María 128festivals 70, 340Granada 268Jerez de la Frontera 119,

124, 341Lebrija 341Málaga 169Morón de la Frontera 341museums 64, 160, 203-4Seville 48, 76-7, 341Utrera 341Vejer de la Frontera 141

flamingos 337Flecha del Rompido 86food 21, 41-2, 165, 351-5,

361, 35, see also individual locations

books 353churros 31cooking courses 31,

69, 140gazpacho 354, 35internet resources 354jamón (ham) 280, 352-3language 374-5olive oil 211, 230, 294,

353-4seafood 351tapas 13, 34, 168, 265,

292, 352, 13tomatoes 296

forts, see castles & fortsfountains

Fuente de los Leones 227Fuente del Rey 214Fuente Pública 304

Franco, General Francisco 322-3

Frigiliana 191Fuengirola 172-3

GGame of Thrones filming

locationsAlcázar 56-7, 59Osuna 103

gardens, see parks & gardens

Gaucín 185gay travellers 360-1gazpacho 354, 35Generación de ’27 346Generación de ’98 346geography 332Gibraltar 45, 108, 150-5,

151, 152accommodation 154activities 153-4food 154-5history 151shopping 155sights 151-3travel to/from 155travel within 155

Giralda (Seville) 56Golden Century art 345-6Góngora, Luís de 346GR7 (Sendero de Gran

Recorrido 7) footpath 146, 275

GR240 footpath 275GR247 footpath 20, 241Granada 247, 250-70, 254,

258-9, 262-3, 5accommodation 261-3activities 260drinking & nightlife

267-8entertainment 268festivals & events 260-1food 263-7history 247shopping 269sights 250-60street art 256tapas 265teterías (teahouses)

267tourist information 269tours 260travel to/from 269-70travel within 270

Granada province 46, 246-84, 248-9

flamenco 246food 32, 246highlights 248-9travel seasons 246

Grazalema 135-6Greek settlement 313Guadix 271-2

Hhammams 244-5, 245

Aire Baños Árabes 61, 64Hammam Al-Andalus

(Málaga) 163

Hammam Andalusí (Jerez de la Frontera) 122

Hammam de Al Andalus (Granada) 260, 244

hang-gliding 39-40health 361Hedionda sulphur baths

176hiking 21, 36-7

Alájar-Castaño del Robledo 96

Aracena 93Cabo de Gata 301Cahorros Altos 273Caminito del Rey 187Camino de los

Charcones 137Cañón de Bailón 213Castaño del

Robledo-Galaroza Loop 97

Cerro de San Cristóbal 98

El Calvario-Corazón de Jesús 135

El Torreón 138Garganta Verde 136, 137GR7 146, 275GR240 275GR247 20, 241Las Alpujarras 275Las Laderas-Camino

Viejo Loop 105Linares de la Sierra 93maps 362-3Mediterranean Steps

(Gibraltar) 153Mijas 177Mulhacén 273, 275Paraje Natural Torcal de

Antequera 189Parque Nacional de

Doñana 89Parque Natural de la

Breña y Marismas del Barbate 141-2

Parque Natural Los Alcornocales 148, 149-50

Parque Natural Sierra de Hornachuelos 216-17

Parque Natural Sierra de las Nieves 183

Parque Natural Sierra de María-Los Vélez 307

Parque Natural Sierra Norte de Sevilla 105

Parque Natural Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas 240

Raya Real 89

Sendero Botánico 216Sendero Cerro del Cinto

302Sendero Charco de la

Boca 89Sendero de Ermitas y

Monasterios 237Sendero de Gran

Recorrido 7 (GR7) 146, 275

Sendero de Los Ángeles 216

Sendero del Acantilado 141-2

Sendero del Aguadero 297

Sendero del Arroyo de las Cañas 107

Sendero del Gilillo 237Sendero del Guaitenejo

185Sendero del Pinsapar

137Sendero Gerald Brenan

281Sendero Guadalora

216-17Sendero Lagunas del

Acebuche 89Sendero Los Castañares

107Sendero Río Borosa 241Sendero Río

Hozgarganta 148-50Sendero Río Verde 277Sendero Salto del

Cabrero 137Sendero Subida al

Picacho 148Sendero Umbría de la

Virgen 307Sierra de Grazalema

137-8Sierra Nevada 273, 275Sulayr 275Trevélez 280Veleta 273, 275Vía Verde de la Sierra

138Vía Verde de la Sierra

Norte 105Vía Verde de la

Subbética 213Vía Verde del Aceite

223-4hilltop towns 22history 312-24

books 316, 322Islamic Spain 314-18prehistoric Andalucía

312-13Reconquista 317-19


387IN

DEX H

-M

Spanish Civil War 321-2Spanish Inquisition 319traders & invaders

313-14holidays 364Hornos 242horse riding 38-9, 2

Aracena 93Cómpeta 190Lanjarón 275Parque Nacional de

Doñana 89Tarifa 143

horses 121, 122hostales 358-9hostels 358-9Huelva 82-4, 83Huelva province 44, 79,

82-98, 80-1accommodation 79activities 82car travel 79food 31-2, 79highlights 80-1internet resources 82

IIberian lynx 226, 311, 335,

335-6, 14ibex 335immigration 367insurance 361, 371internet access 361internet resources 19Isla Cristina 86-7Islamic architecture 325-9,

see also castles & forts; mosques; palaces & mansions

Islamic culture 314-18, 344-5

Itálica 98itineraries 26-9, see

also driving tours

JJaén 222-5, 223Jaén province 46, 219-43,

220-1accommodation 219car travel 219, 232food 32, 219highlights 220-1

jamón (ham) 280, 352-3Jerez de la Frontera 119-25,

120-1accommodation 122activities 121-2drinking & nightlife 124-5

entertainment 124, 125festivals & events 122food 122-4sights 119-21travel to/from 125travel within 125

Jewish culture 316, 317Jimena de la Frontera

148-50Jiménez, Juan Ramón 86

Kkitesurfing 16, 39, 144-5,

17, 39

LLa Axarquía 189-91La Herradura 283-4La Isleta del Moro 302La Pepa 320La Rábida 84La Tahá 279-80La Vega 271-2Laguna de Fuente de

Piedra 189language courses 69, 113,

140, 361-2languages 18, 373-80Lanjarón 275-6Las Alpujarras 12, 272-3,

275-82, 296-8, 274Laujar de Andarax 297-8legal matters 362lesbian travellers 360-1Linares de la Sierra 95-6literature 266, 270, 346-7Lorca, Federico Garcia 266,

270, 346, 347Los Cahorros 273Los Caños de Meca 141-2Los Escullos 301Los Pedroches 217Los Tresmiles 273, 275Los Vélez 307-8Lugares Colombinos 84-6lynx 226, 311, 335, 335-6,

14

Mmacaques 153, 335Madinat al-Zahra 205-

6, 327Mairena 281-2Málaga 15, 157, 160-70,

162, 166-7, 15accommodation 164activities 163drinking & nightlife 167-8

entertainment 169festivals & events 163-4food 164-7history 157shopping 169sights 157, 160-1, 163travel to/from 169-70travel within 170

Málaga province 45, 156-94, 158-9


mansions, see palaces & mansions

maps 362-3Marbella 173-5markets

Almería 288, 293Córdoba 205Málaga 161Tarifa 143

Matalascañas 87measures 362Mecina Bombarón 281Mezquita (Córdoba) 10, 20,

198-202, 326-7, 200-1, 11, 200-1

Mijas 177-8Minas de Riotinto 92-3mining 92-3, 302mobile phones 364Moguer 85-6Mojácar 303-6, 305Molina, Antonio Muñoz 347monasteries

Conjunto Monumental de la Cartuja 68

Iglesía y Monasterio de Santiago 271

Monasterio de la Encarnación 102

Monasterio de la Rábida 84

Monasterio de Montesión 237

Monasterio de San Isidoro del Campo 98-9

Monasterio de San Jerónimo 259-60, 22

Monasterio de Santa Clara 85

O Sel Ling 277money 18, 19, 150, 360,

363Montilla wines 212Morocco, travel to/from

149, 368, 369

mosques 326-7Alcázar (Jerez de la

Frontera) 119Mezquita (Almonaster la

Real) 98, 326Mezquita (Córdoba) 10,

20, 198-202, 326-7, 200-1, 11, 200-1

motorcycle travel 368, 370-1mouflon 335Mozarabies 329Mudéjars 329Muelle de las Carabelas 84Mulhacén 273, 275Murillo, Bartolomé Esteban

51Museo Picasso Málaga 15,

157, 160, 15museums & galleries 42

Archivo de Indias 61Archivo-Museo San Juan

de Dios 256Baños Arabes 181Carmen Museo Max

Moreau 256-7Casa Alpujarreña 278Casa de Pilatos 65Casa de Sefarad 203Casa del Obispo 109Casa Museo Arte

Andalusí 234Casa Museo de Mijas 177Casa Museo Manuel de

Falla 255Casa Museo Martín

Alonso Pinzón 85Casa Museo Pedro

Antonio de Alarcón 278Casa Museo Zenobia y

Juan Ramón Jiménez 86

Centre Pompidou Málaga 20, 160-1

Centro Andaluz de la Fotografía 289, 291

Centro Cerámica Triana 66

Centro de Arte Contemporáneo de Málaga 161

Centro de Arte Contemporáneo de Mijas 177

Centro de Interpretación Cuevas de Guadix 271

Centro de Interpretación Judería de Sevilla 61

Centro de Interpretación Olivar y Aceite 20

Centro de la Interpretación Mudéjar 69

388

IND

EX M-P

museums & galleries continued

Centro Flamenco Fosforito 203-4

Centro José Guerrero 257

Centro Lorca 270Centro Velázquez 61Colección Arte Garó 175Conjunto Monumental

de la Cartuja 68Cueva Museo 307El Pabellon de la

Navegación 68Fundación Rafael Alberti

126Fundación Rodríguez-

Acosta 255Gibraltar Museum 152Hospital de la

Caridad 64Hospital de los

Venerables Sacerdotes 61

Huerta de San Vicente 270

La Casa de los Volcanes 302

La Cilla 138Metropol Parasol 65Military Heritage Centre

153Museo Antiquarium 65Museo Arqueológico

(Almuñécar) 283Museo Arqueológico

(Córdoba) 204Museo Arqueológico

(Estepona) 175Museo Arqueológico

(Jerez de la Frontera) 119

Museo Arqueológico (Seville) 67

Museo Automovilístico Málaga 161, 163

Museo Batalla de las Navas de Tolosa 226

Museo Carmen Thyssen 160

Museo Casa Natal Federico García Lorca 270

Museo Conventual de las Descalzas 186

Museo Cuevas del Sacromonte 260

Museo de Almería 289

Museo de Arte Flamenco 160

Museo de Artes y Costumbres Populares (Jaén) 222

Museo de Artes y Costumbres Populares (Seville) 67

Museo de Artesanía Textil 135

Museo de Bellas Artes (Granada) 254

Museo de Bellas Artes (Seville) 64-5

Museo de Cádiz 112Museo de Huelva 82Museo de Málaga 160Museo de Nerja 192-3Museo de Osuna 102Museo de Ronda 179Museo de la Alhambra

254Museo de la Ciudad de

Carmona 99Museo de la Ciudad de

Antequera 186Museo de la Guitarra

289Museo de las Cortes de

Cádiz 112Museo de San Juan de la

Cruz 234Museo del Baile

Flamenco 64Museo del Bandolero

179, 181Museo del Carnaval 86Museo del Grabado

Español 174Museo del Jamón 93Museo del Vidrio y

Cristal 160Museo Histórico

(Salobreña) 282Museo Histórico

Municipal (Écija) 104Museo Histórico

Municipal (Priego de Córdoba) 215

Museo Internacional de Arte Naïf 222

Museo Julio Romero de Torres 204

Museo Lara 179Museo Minero 92Museo Naval 85Museo Picasso Málaga

15, 157, 160, 15Museo Ralli 174-5Museo Ruso de Málaga

20, 161Museo Sefardi 255

Palacio de la Condesa de Lebrija 65

Palacio de los Olvidados 20, 256

Palacio de Viana 205Plaza de Toros de la Real

Maestranza 64Torre de la Calahorra

203Torre del Oro 64

NNacimiento del

Guadalquivir 240Nasrids 328-9national parks & nature

reserves 332-4, see also parks & gardens


Paraje Natural Torcal de Antequera 188-9, 334

Parque Dunar 87Parque Nacional de

Doñana 14, 87-90, 130, 332-3

Parque Nacional Sierra Nevada 273-5, 333

Parque Natural de Cabo de Gata-Níjar 298-303, 333, 299, 13

Parque Natural de Despeñaperros 225-6

Parque Natural de Doñana 88

Parque Natural de la Breña y Marismas del Barbate 141-2

Parque Natural Los Alcornocales 148-50, 333

Parque Natural Sierra de Andújar 226-7, 333

Parque Natural Sierra de Cardeña y Montoro 217

Parque Natural Sierra de Grazalema 137-8, 334


Parque Natural Sierra de las Nieves 183, 334


Parque Natural Sierra Norte 334

Parque Natural Sierra Norte de Sevilla 105-7

Parque Natural Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y las Villas 239-43, 334

Parque Natural Sierras Subbéticas 211-16

Upper Rock Nature Reserve 153

nature reserves, see national parks & nature reserves; parks & gardens

Necrópolis Romana 99, 101Nelson, Horatio Lord 152Nerja 191-4, 192newspapers 362Niebla 91Níjar 295-6

OOhanes 297olive oil 211, 230, 294,

353-4Olvera 138-9, 22Omayyads 326opening hours 363Órgiva 276Osuna 102-3outdoor activities

23-5, 36-40, 82, see also individual activities & locations

Ppalaces & mansions, see

also castles & fortsAlcazaba (Almería) 288Alcazaba (Málaga)

157, 160Alcázar (Jerez de la

Frontera) 119Alcázar (Seville) 56-7, 59Alcázar de los Reyes

Cristianos 202-3Alhambra 9, 250-5,

328-9, 252-3, 254, 8-9, 252-3

Casa de Pilatos 65Casa del Mayorazgo 139Castillo de Zuheros 212Palacio de Dar-al-Horra

256Palacio de Govantes y

Herdara 102Palacio de Jabalquinto

228Palacio de la Condesa de

Lebrija 65Palacio de los Cepeda

102Palacio de los Duques de

Medina Sidonia 129Palacio de Los

Marqueses de la Algaba 69


389IN

DEX P

-T Palacio de Orleans y

Borbón 129Palacio de Peñaflor 104Palacio de Vázquez de

Molina 232Palacio de Viana 205Palacio de

Villardompardo 222Palacio del Deán Ortega

232Palacio Marqués de la

Gomera 102Palacio Vela de los

Cobos 234Palos de la Frontera 84-5Pampaneira 277-8paradores 359paragliding 39-40, 284Paraje Natural Torcal de

Antequera 188-9parking 371parks & gardens 328, see

also national parks & nature reserves

Alameda Botanic Gardens 152

Casa del Rey Moro 179Jardín Botánico El

Albardinal 302Jardín Botánico Umbría

de la Virgen 307Jardín Micológico ‘La

Trufa’ 215Orchidarium 175Parque Botánico El

Majuelo 283Parque de María Luisa

66-7Paseo de España 161

Parque de María Luisa 66-7

Parque Nacional de Doñana 14, 87-90, 130, 332-3

Parque Natural de Cabo de Gata-Níjar 298-303, 333, 299, 13

Parque Natural Los Alcornocales 148-50, 333

Parque Natural Sierra de Andújar 226-7, 333

Parque Natural Sierra de Grazalema 137-8, 334


Parque Natural Sierra de las Nieves 183, 334


Parque Natural Sierra Norte de Sevilla 105-7

Parque Natural Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y las Villas 239-43, 334

Parque Natural Sierras Subbéticas 211-16

passports 367Peña de Arias Montano 96Peña de Hierro 92peñas 63, 341Peñón de Zaframagón 138Phoenician settlement 313phonecards 364-5Picasso, Pablo 157, 347planning

Andalucía basics 18-19Andalucía’s regions 44-6budgeting 19calendar of events 23-5children, travel with 41-3food 30-5internet resources 19itineraries 26-9outdoor activities 36-40repeat visitors 20travel seasons 18, 23-5

Plaza de San Francisco 65poetry 270, 346-7police 362politics 310-11population 311Portugal, travel to/from 87postal services 363pottery 236Pradollano 273Priego de Córdoba 214-16public holidays 364

Rradio 362Real Escuela Andaluza del

Arte Ecuestre 121religion 311Renaissance architecture

330Río Guadalquivir 332Río Madera 243Rio Tinto company 82, 92road rules 371rock climbing 40, 185Rodalquilar 302-3Roman settlement 313-14Romería del Rocío 90Ronda 10, 178-84, 180, 10

accommodation 181-2drinking & nightlife 183entertainment 184festivals & events 181food 182-3sights 178-9, 181

travel to/from 184travel within 184

Ronda la Vieja 184-5Royal Andalucian School of

Equestrian Art 121

SSacromonte 260safety 364Salinas de Cabo de Gata

299Salobreña 282-3San José 300-2San Miguel de Cabo de

Gata 299-300Sanlúcar de Barrameda

129-31Santa Elena 225-6Santa Eufemia 217Santiponce 98-9seafood 351Segura de la Sierra 242-3Semana Santa

Antequera 187Arcos de la Frontera 133Baeza 229Córdoba 206Granada 260Jaén 224Málaga 163Seville 17, 23, 69-70,

17, 24Úbeda 235

Sendero de Gran Recorrido 7 (GR7) 146, 275

senior travellers 360Serranía de Ronda 184-5Sevilla province 44, 79,

98-107, 80-1accommodation 79activities 82car travel 79food 31, 79highlights 80-1internet resources 82

Seville (Sevilla) 44, 48-61, 64-78, 49, 54-5, 58, 60

accommodation 70-2activities 61, 64, 66-7, 68bicycle travel 66children, travel with 71courses 69drinking & nightlife 75-6entertainment 76-7festivals & events 17, 23,

69-70, 17, 24flamenco 48food 48, 72-5

highlights 49history 50shopping 77sights 50-7, 59, 61, 64-9tourist information 77-8tours 69travel seasons 48travel to/from 78travel within 78

Seville cathedral 9, 50-6, 52-3, 9, 52-3

sheep 335sherry 10, 33, 130, 355, 11,

see also bodegasfestivals 127food pairings 33history 129

Sherry Triangle 118-31Sierra de Aracena 95-8, 96Sierra de Cazorla 239-

43, 239Sierra Nevada 12, 272-5,

332, 274, 12siesta 33Siglo de Oro (Golden

Century) 345-6skiing 40, 273snorkelling 37-8, 300-1snowboarding 40, 273Sorbas 295spaghetti westerns 294Spanish Civil War 321-2Spanish fir 334spas, see hammamsstorks 337surfing 39, 141, 142synagogues

Sinagoga de Córdoba 203Sinagoga del Agua 234

Ttabancos 123tablaos 63, 343tapas 13, 34, 168, 265, 292,

352, 13Tarifa 16, 142-7, 144, 17, 39

accommodation 145-6activities 143-5drinking & nightlife 147festivals & events 145food 146-7sights 143travel to/from 147

taxes 363taxis 371tea 356, see also teterías

(teahouses)telephone services 150,

364-5

390

IND

EX T-Z

teterías (teahouses) 244-5, 267, 293, 356, 244, 245

theatresGran Teatro Falla 117Sevilla de Ópera 76Teatro Cervantes 169Teatro Villamarta 125

theme parks 42Fort Bravo 295Isla Mágica 68Oasys Mini Hollywood

294-5Tivoli World 171

time 365tinto de verano 169tipping 363toilets 365tomatoes 296Torrecilla 183Torremolinos 170-2Torres, Julio Romero

de 346tourist information 365towers

Torre de la Calahorra 203

Torre del Tajo 141Torre Pirulico 304Torre Tavira 109, 112

Trafalgar Cemetery 152train tours 92-3train travel 19, 368-9,

371-2, 372

travel to/from Andalucía 367-9

travel within Andalucía 369-72

trees 334, 336trekking, see hikingTrevélez 280Triana 66-7

UÚbeda 16, 231-7, 233

accommodation 235drinking & nightlife 236festivals & events 235food 235-6pottery 236shopping 236sights 232, 234travel to/from 236-7travel within 236-7

unemployment 310-11Upper Rock Nature

Reserve 153

VVálor 281Vandelvira, Andrés de

231, 330vegetarian travellers 32Vejer de la Frontera 20,

139-41, 16Velázquez, Diego 51, 345Veleta 273, 275

Vélez Blanco 307-8Vélez Málaga 189vías verdes (greenways)



Norte 105Vía Verde de la

Subbética 213Vía Verde del Aceite

223-4Villanueva de Córdoba

217visas 150, 365-6Visigoths 314, 326vultures 336-7

Wwalking, see hikingweather 18, 23-5websites 19weights 362whale-watching 145white towns 16, 131-9

Arcos de la Frontera 131-3, 135

driving tour 134, 134Grazalema 135-6Olvera 138-9Vejer de la Frontera 20,

139-41, 16Zahara de la Sierra 136

wildlife 43, 334-7

wildlife-watching 38, 88-9, see also birdwatching, dolphin-watching, individual animals


Parque Natural Sierra de Andújar 226-7

windsurfing 39, 144-5, 284

wine 179, 212, 353, 354-5, see also bodegas

wolves 335women travellers 366WWII 153, 323

YYegen 281

ZZahara de la Sierra 136Zahara de los Atunes

142, 15ziplining 174zoos

Biopark 172Oasys Mini Hollywood

294Parque Ornitológico

Loro-Sexi 283Zuheros 211-14Zurbarán, Francisco de

345


391

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

U-Bahn/Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationS-Bahn/S-train/Subway stationTaxi

Train station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

Tube station

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

T-bane/Tunnelbana station

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book


Map Legend

Isabella Noble Huelva & Sevilla Provinces, Cádiz Province & Gibraltar English/Australian on paper but Spanish at heart, Isabella grew up in a Málaga mountain village and later lived in Cádiz province. Adventures this edition included exploring Vejer’s magic, hiking Grazalema’s Garganta Verde, getting lost in Cádiz Carnaval and sipping tintos on bleach-blonde beaches in Tarifa, one of her favourite places in the world. For now, she lives in London and writes on Spain, India and beyond for

a number of publications. Isabella also wrote the Outdoor Activities chapter. Find her on Twitter/Instagram @isabellamnoble.

John Noble Córdoba Province, Jaén Province, Almería Province John, originally from Eng-land’s Ribble Valley, has lived in an Andalucian mountain village since 1995. He has explored Andalucía from end to end, playing a part in all eight editions of this guidebook. The highlight of research for this edition was going to the Sierra de Andújar to look for wildlife and quite coincidentally getting mixed up in the enor-mous once-a-year festivities of the Romería de la Virgen de la Cabeza. John also

wrote the Andalucía Today and History chapters.

Josephine Quintero Málaga Province Josephine has lived in a small village just outside Málaga since 1992. As well as continually ‘discovering’ the Costa capital, Josephine loves strolling along the beachside promenades throughout the coastal resorts. A highlight this trip was discovering a Roman sulphur spring that has escaped being commercialised and enjoying inspirational art during an open studio week-end in the picturesque mountainside village of Gaucín. Josephine also wrote the

Travel with Children chapter.

Brendan Sainsbury Seville, Granada Province Originally from Hampshire, England, Brendan first went to Spain on an Interrail ticket in the 1980s. He went back as a travel guide several years later and met his wife-to-be in a small village in rural Andalucía in 2003. He has been writing books for Lonely Planet for a decade, including four previous editions of the Spain and Andalucía guidebooks. Brendan loves Gra-nada, the writing of Federico Lorca, cycling along via verdes and attending as

many flamenco shows as his research allows. Brendan also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand and Survival Guide sections.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9838th edition – Jan 2016ISBN 978 1 74321 387 2© Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 201610 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Read more about Brendan at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/brendansainsbury

Read more about Josephine at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/josephinequintero

Read more about John at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/ewoodrover

Read more about Isabella at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/isabellanoble



© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

behind the scenes - lonely planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/andalucia-8-index.pdf · castillo...

Documents