austr alia’s best food and dr ink exper … · sitcom seinfeld’s lovable loser, george...

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AU S T R A L I A’ S

B E S T FO OD A N D DR I N K B E S T FO OD A N D DR I N K

E X PE R I E NC E SE X PE R I E NC E S

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compiled by

JO MJO MccK AY, LARISSA DUBECKI, TRISTAN LUTZE, FREYA HERRING, K AY, LARISSA DUBECKI, TRISTAN LUTZE, FREYA HERRING,

CARRIE HUTCHINSON, MAX VEENHUYZEN, NATASCHA MIROSCHCARRIE HUTCHINSON, MAX VEENHUYZEN, NATASCHA MIROSCH

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Australian

crawlLocal spirit producers’ new-

found love for native botanicals has taken a quantum leap with

their discovery of green ants. With a flavour described as

zesty, limy and tart, the native ants – sustainably harvested in the Northern Territory in partnership with traditional

owners – add a six-legged kick to gin, including the Australian

Green Ant Gin by Adelaide Hills Distillery (adelaidehills

distillery.com.au).

There’s hot, hotter and hottest. tterThere’s hot, hotter and hottest. and hottest.But these 10 food experiences are odBut these 10 food experiences are experiences arBut these 10 food experiences are so hot, they’re downright cool. so hot, they’re downright cool. downrightso hot, they’re downright cool. cool.By Larissa Dubecki.becki.By Larissa Dubecki.

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M M O M E N T

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Lauren Bamford

High societyHow to win friends and influence How to win friends and influence people: 1. Book the private dining room people: 1. Book the private dining room at Vue de Monde (vuedemonde.com.au), at Vue de Monde (vuedemonde.com.au), Shannon Bennett’s glittering fine-diner Shannon Bennett’s glittering fine-diner in Melbourne. 2. Request The P2 Ultimate in Melbourne. 2. Request The P2 Ultimate Experience, a collaboration with Dom Experience, a collaboration with Dom Pérignon that starts at $900 a head for Pérignon that starts at $900 a head for 10 to 12 courses with champagne. 3. Take a 10 to 12 courses with champagne. 3. Take a brass token and head downstairs to cap off brass token and head downstairs to cap off the evening with a bottle of chilled 2006 the evening with a bottle of chilled 2006 vintage from a vending machine dubbed vintage from a vending machine dubbed the “Illuminator”. Fun with a capital “F”. the “Illuminator”. Fun with a capital “F”.

DESIGNATED-DRIVER DÉGUSTATIONPerhaps it’s because we’re more health-conscious or maybe mocktails are

finally getting interesting but the non-alcoholic drink-matching trend is

taking hold in Australia’s top restaurants. From Sydney’s Momofuku Seiōbo

(seiobo.momofuku.com) to Adelaide’s Orana (restaurantorana.com) and

Melbourne’s Attica (attica.com.au), it’s the time for creative juices, spritzers,

sodas and infusions. In 2017, going booze-free doesn’t have to be spiritless.

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COCKTAIL CHAMELEONThe Bloody Mary has proven

itself endlessly adaptable, with

bartenders mixing up all kinds of

bespoke blends. Melbourne’s Uncle

(unclerestaurants.com.au) gives it a

Vietnamese twist with a hint of fish

sauce. Perth’s Odyssea Beach Café

(odysseabeachcafe.com.au) opts

for tomato and clam juice, while

Mary’s in Sydney (6marystreet.

com) serves it with a Yank-tastic

garnish of bacon and cheese.

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A cut aboveThere are only eight seats,

which book out in a flash when they’re released months in

advance, but the sushi counter at Sokyo (star.com.au) warrants

diarising. The calm eye of the buzzing salaryman storm at

Sydney’s glamorous Japanese diner is worthy of anyone’s

bucket list, thanks to the skills of sushi chef Takashi Sano,

who precision-cuts the finest seafood into swooningly

good examples of art.

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09TRAILER-TRASH SMASHThe food beloved of dudes has been trending

for some time but at Melbourne neo-dive bar

The Beaufort (thebeaufort.com.au), it reaches

its apotheosis with the truffled mac ’n’ cheese

topped with a nuclear-orange scattering of

Cheezels crumbs. Southern comfort indeed.

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Second skinPork-skin noodles. Three words that probably shouldn’t go together but we’re certainly glad they do at Liberté (libertealbany.com.au) in Albany, Western Australia. The irreverent French-Vietnamese restaurant in the London Hotel throws cholesterol-caution to the wind by turning irresistibly more-ish pork skin into equally irresistible noodles – and value-adds with all sorts of spicy goodness.

Approachwith cautionBibs aren’t for babies at the Melbourne CBD home of Miss Katie’s Crab Shack (misskaties crabshack.com), especially when tackling the signature crab boil: whole blue swimmer crab cooked with potatoes, corn and chorizo, served with a true Louisiana- style shaker of Old Bay spice mix. Put on your Miss Katie’s bib, dig in with your hands and leg-cracking mallet and don’t be alarmed if you spill anything on the newspaper tablecloth.

SWITCH IT UPIt’s quid pro quo for eternal It’s quid pro quo for eternal

dining rivals Sydney and dining rivals Sydney and

Melbourne. Sydneysiders, Melbourne. Sydneysiders,

say goodbye to glamorous say goodbye to glamorous

Sepia (sepiarestaurant.com.Sepia (sepiarestaurant.com.

au) before it closes for good au) before it closes for good

on 31 December to join Chris on 31 December to join Chris

Lucas’s stable down south Lucas’s stable down south

next year. There’s no time for next year. There’s no time for

sulking, though, as Sydney has sulking, though, as Sydney has

just received its own version just received its own version

of Lucas’s South-East Asian of Lucas’s South-East Asian

party palace, Chin Chin party palace, Chin Chin

(chinchinrestaurant.com.au).(chinchinrestaurant.com.au).

SLOW FOOD, AFRICAN STYLEThe cradle of civilisation may well

have begun with scenes like those

at The Abyssinian (theabyssinian.

com.au) in Melbourne’s Kensington:

groups of people banqueting on

Ethiopian slow-cooked meats,

legumes and vegetable dishes

– all scented with signature dusky

spices and, best of all, eaten not

with cutlery but scooped up with

swatches of the spongy sourdough

flatbread known as injera.

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Urbane legend

Brisbane restaurant Urbane (urbanerestaurant.com) has

been known for its plant-based dégustations for close to five years. The fact that executive chef Alejandro Cancino lives a vegan lifestyle only bolsters the restaurant’s cred. Diners

can choose between herbivore and omnivore menus.

15A NEW LEAF What began in

2014 as a carnivore’s

go-to has morphed

into one of Adelaide’s

most vego-friendly

establishments. Sure,

Duncan Welgemoed’s

menu at Africola

(africola.com.au) still

features pork sirloin

and peri-peri chicken

but flavour-packed

vegetable dishes such

as cauliflower steak,

cabbage heart and

charred carrots are

textural, tasty and

oh-so-satisfying.

12HIGH STAKES At Hobart’s Aløft

(aloftrestaurant.com), the

Asian-inspired offerings are

big on flavour and texture,

regardless of composition.

For vegetarians, that

might mean dishes such

as prawn-cracker-inspired

miso and tapioca or tempura

zucchini. Pescetarians and

coeliacs are also looked after

with dedicated menus.

TAPAS ROOTSThe Spanish-inspired dishes The Spanish-inspired dishes

at Smith & Daughters at Smith & Daughters

(smithanddaughters.com) (smithanddaughters.com)

are entirely plant-based but are entirely plant-based but

omnivores may not realise it. omnivores may not realise it.

“Blood sausage” is a mix of “Blood sausage” is a mix of

beetroot and wine, while beetroot and wine, while

the “bacon” on the Brussels the “bacon” on the Brussels

sprouts doesn’t come from a sprouts doesn’t come from a

pig at all. Yep, this edgy eatery pig at all. Yep, this edgy eatery

in Melbourne’s Brunswick is in Melbourne’s Brunswick is

bending minds and matter.bending minds and matter.

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Hold the steak! Pass the carrots! Here are the establishments serving impeccable fare of the garden variety. By Jo McKay.eHold the steak! Pass the carrots! Here are the establishments serving impeccable fare of the garden variety. By Jo McKay.fare of the garden variety. By Jo McKay.

V E G E T A R I A NI A N

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Good beginnings

Start your Sydney Saturday at Yellow (yellowsydney.com.au).

The weekend breakfast selection, which has been exclusively vegetarian since June, beats

bacon hands down. Try the corn custard with miso-koji creamed corn and poached egg – it’s chef

and co-owner Brent Savage’s favourite dish.

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18Bold movesIt’s easy to be intimidated by

a restaurant that offers roasted oysters, fermented potato bread,

blood sausage and Leftover Sourdough Ice Cream. But the

set menu at Ester (ester-restaurant.com.au) in Sydney’s Chippendale will win you over with its 10 or so

unique dishes.

LITTLE ITALYLulu La Delizia (lululadelizia.com.

au) innovates without forgetting

what we want most from an

Italian meal: comfort. Opt for

the chef’s menu at this intimate,

bright trattoria in Subiaco, Perth,

and watch the open kitchen send

out a parade of classics injected

with bravery. There’s deep-fried

spaghetti, anchovies served with

lemon-and-parsley doughnuts

and the most triumphant marriage

of the modern and traditional:

smoked pasta.

CURRYING FLAVOURWith two tandoors glowing in

the kitchen, each one piloted by

a seasoned expert, Melbourne’s

Tonka (tonkarestaurant.com.au)

gives familiar Indian concepts

a modern twist. Leave it to the

chefs to choose your courses and

expect vindaloo steak tartare,

tandoor-blackened ocean trout

or duck korma with apple and

vanilla-spiced beetroot.

Passage to PeruPastuso chef Alejandro Saravia (pastuso.com.au) offers a generous tasting menu that showcases Peru’s culinary diversity, with zingy ceviches, chargrilled meats and street foods that will transport you from the laneways of Melbourne to the avenues of Lima.

F E E D - M E M E N U SForget the boring banquet menu. At these standout restaurants, the chefs choose their

favourite combination of dishes for you. By Tristan Lutze.

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LUCKY DIP Melbourne’s Chin Chin (chinchinrestaurant.

com.au) is the inventor of the “feed me”

concept, where plates are shared and the

waiter takes care of choosing the dishes.

It has built its mighty reputation on big

South-East Asian flavours, executed with

contemporary culinary prowess and finished

with an explosion of herbs. Tell your waiter

how hungry you are and let the kitchen take

you on a journey, which could include coconut-

milk-drizzled kingfish sashimi one day and

sticky twice-cooked beef ribs another.

20NOT NORMAL, NOT NORMAL,

SUPERNORMALSUPERNORMALJust down the road from Chin Just down the road from Chin

Chin, Pastuso and MoVida, Chin, Pastuso and MoVida,

Supernormal (supernormal.Supernormal (supernormal.

net.au) has an Asian-inspired net.au) has an Asian-inspired

menu that doesn’t cling too menu that doesn’t cling too

closely to its defining cuisines. closely to its defining cuisines.

Chef Andrew McConnell (left) Chef Andrew McConnell (left)

serves vegetable dumplings serves vegetable dumplings

alongside New England lobster alongside New England lobster

rolls, followed by a selection rolls, followed by a selection

of world-class sashimi. of world-class sashimi.

The two banquet options The two banquet options

feature highlights from feature highlights from

the main menu. the main menu.

Treasure

islandWith Analiese Gregory (right) at the helm, Hobart’s Franklin (franklinhobart.com.au) is one of Australia’s most talked- about diners. The mod Oz menu changes daily and relies on local ingredients prepared without fuss, such as the housemade stracciatella with Jerusalem artichoke and saltbush. The tasting menu showcases the best, not only from the kitchen’s 10-tonne Scotch oven but also from all over Tasmania.

SPAIN IN A LANEOriginal laneway institution MoVida Original laneway institution MoVida

(movida.com.au) is a Melbourne icon that’s (movida.com.au) is a Melbourne icon that’s

almost as famous as the city’s trams and almost as famous as the city’s trams and

graffiti. This place has perfected the art of graffiti. This place has perfected the art of

tapas, with options such as air-dried Wagyu tapas, with options such as air-dried Wagyu

topped with aromatic truffle foam and topped with aromatic truffle foam and

smoked tomato sorbet with hand-filleted smoked tomato sorbet with hand-filleted

Cantabrian anchovies. For the true Spanish Cantabrian anchovies. For the true Spanish

experience, ditch the menu and ask the experience, ditch the menu and ask the

waiter to deal out the day’s best dishes.waiter to deal out the day’s best dishes.

Kristoffer Paulsen, Nikki To

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S U R P R I S E !Eating and drinking can be such serious business these days so try these six venues that bring the fun. By Larissa Dubecki.

Caffeine

chill-out

Even coffee gets into the subtropical Brisbane swing at Queen of Pops (queenofpops.com.au), where Wolff Coffee Roasters’ beans receive the popsicle treatment. At double ristretto strength, it’s a frozen kick on a stick. You can get a hot-chocolate pop as well.

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Mexico wayMexican places are a dime a dozen around the land but La Tortillería

(latortilleria.com.au) in Melbourne could have been ripped up by a tornado in Mexico City and

deposited in backstreet Kensington. A tortilla factory with a simple eatery,

it adheres to Mexican design principles – lurid colours, religious motifs – and the tacos, created with

housemade corn tortillas, are as auténtico as it gets.

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S U P R S Ee ssuuch serriiou

CCaffeiine

hhill o t

000

BAR ABOUT NOTHINGNOTHING“Be more like George” is “Be more like George” is

the motto of Melbourne the motto of Melbourne

bar George’s (georgesbar.bar George’s (georgesbar.

com.au), an homage to TV com.au), an homage to TV

sitcom Seinfeld’s lovable sitcom Seinfeld’s lovable

loser, George Costanza. loser, George Costanza.

Roll up for beer, Seinfeld-Roll up for beer, Seinfeld-

themed toasted sandwiches themed toasted sandwiches

and bowls of pretzels on the and bowls of pretzels on the

bar. Be warned: they’ll make bar. Be warned: they’ll make

you thirsty.you thirsty.

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PianoforteLiberace, eat your heart out. Descend the steps to the intimate cellar at Hobart CBD wine bar Ettie’s (etties.com.au) on Friday and Saturday nights for

an eclectic playlist, courtesy of the baby grand piano. This subterranean bar is a favourite of the late-night hospo crowd, with pianists tickling

the ivories until at least midnight.27BAD BEAT GONE GOOD

It was once an illegal casino run by Melbourne

underworld figure Alphonse Gangitano. Today, the

gangsters are gone but the new custodians of this

first-floor lair in Fitzroy North have wisely decided to

leave the décor intact in all its kitschy glory. A nuevo

speakeasy with food-and-wine cred, Neighbourhood

Wine (neighbourhoodwine.com) is comfort personified.

Sticky fingersGood news, sugar-lovers. All signs indicate that we’re moving into a post-savoury world where it’s possible to skip the boring bits in favour of dessert, dessert and more dessert. The trend has hit Melbourne’s Om Nom (right and below; omnom.kitchen), Perth’s The Trustee (thetrustee.com.au) and Brisbane’s Bacchus (bacchussouthbank. com.au). Sydney isn’t far behind – read about the sweet flirtations of 12-Micron and Koi Dessert Bar on pages 90 and 91.

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THE RESTAURANTAt No. 32 in its fifth year on the

W50B list, Attica (attica.com.au)

lurks unobtrusively on an inner-

suburban Melbourne street.

A recent makeover, complete with

flame-scorched wood panelling,

has turned it into the very model

of the smart mod Oz restaurant.

THE CHEFNew Zealander Ben Shewry

worked under Melbourne chefs

of note Michael Lambie and

Andrew McConnell before starting

as head chef at then-unsung

Attica in 2005 while going through

his experimental Thai phase.

THE FOODThe extended dégustation menu

($275 per person) uses a whole

host of obscure native ingredients

and dishes up W50B-worthy takes

on smashed avocado and lamb-

and-Vegemite pie. The pearl

meat cooked in paperbark is

the signature dish.

THE EXPERIENCEThey usher you out to

the courtyard for billy tea

and a jam doughnut by the fire

before the dessert course.

THE TAKE-HOME FACTOR

Attica sends you off into the night

with giant Fantales – the chewy

choc-coated caramels – rebadged

as Cheftales with cheffy trivia

printed on the wrapper.

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THE RESTAURANTDebuting on the W50B list at

No. 44, Brae (braerestaurant.

com) is housed in a revamped

farmhouse in the Otway

hinterland, 90 minutes’ drive

from Melbourne. Warning: it’s

so Scandi chic, it’s guaranteed

to spark tree-change reveries.

THE CHEFDan Hunter started as

a dishwasher in Melbourne’s

Fitzroy and eventually became

head chef at Spain’s acclaimed

Mugaritz before coming home

and putting Dunkeld’s Royal

Mail Hotel on the map.

THE FOODThe sophisticated but

unfussy menu ($240 per person)

is micro-regionally obsessed –

based on the incredible produce

of the Otways. The dessert of

fried parsnip skin and parsnip-and-

apple mousse is the standout.

THE EXPERIENCEYou’re encouraged to take

a wander around the farm

between courses.

THE TAKE-HOME FACTOR

Brae makes a keepsake of your

menu, complete with your drink

selections, printed on its bucolic

stationery. We think you should

fork out for Dan Hunter’s beautiful

book, Brae: Recipes and Stories

from the Restaurant. Photography: Colin Page. Illustration: Liz Kay

31Brae

It’s Australia’s ultimate showdown: Attica versus Brae. Our two entries on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list are thrown into

the ring for the knockdown decider. Larissa Dubecki lets you be the judge...



C H I C K E NThe humble chook is in demand. Roasted, fried or encased in a pie, this comfort food is worth crossing the road for. The humble chook is in demand. Roasted, fried or encased in a pie, this comfort food is worth crossing the road for.

By Tristan Lutze.By Tristan Lutze.

3232Crunch Crunch

time time A golden crust that A golden crust that shatters with a single shatters with a single bite, revealing juicy, bite, revealing juicy, flavourful meat... flavourful meat... Excellent fried chicken Excellent fried chicken is easy to describe is easy to describe but difficult to find. but difficult to find. That’s where Thirsty That’s where Thirsty Bird (thirstybird. Bird (thirstybird. com.au), a hole in com.au), a hole in the wall in Sydney’s the wall in Sydney’s Potts Point, delivers. Potts Point, delivers. Have the chicken Have the chicken sandwiched in a soft sandwiched in a soft bun or surrounded bun or surrounded by a parade of perfect by a parade of perfect sides, including mac sides, including mac and cheese and waffle and cheese and waffle fries, plus gravy you’ll fries, plus gravy you’ll want to drink by want to drink by the glass.the glass.

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Photography: Christopher Pearce

Photography: Christopher Pearce


Sunday roast It’s a familiar, comforting tableau: a whole roast chicken, mountainous sides and a jug of thick gravy. The Paddington hotel (merivale.com.au) in Sydney has taken our favourite family meal and transformed it into one you can share with friends at the pub.

Schnitty night While the menu at Sydney’s Unicorn Hotel (theunicornhotel.com.au) in Paddington pays tribute to old Aussie favourites (Jatz crackers with French onion dip, prawn cocktails), the pub’s legacy is its perfect chicken schnitzel. Brined overnight, coated in crunchy panko crumbs, fried and laid on a bed of buttery mash with gravy, it’s so good that you could eat it for breakfast, lunch and dinner.it for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

37SWEET AS PIES Few foods are as comforting

as chicken pie. Rolling Pin Pies

& Cakes (rollingpin.com.au),

a favourite among locals and

visitors to Victoria’s picturesque

Bellarine Peninsula, has perfected

four types: chicken and vegetable,

chicken and mushroom, chicken

carbonara and the award-winning,

pilgrimage-worthy Chinese garlic

and pepper chicken pie.

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In the baguetteBy taking a crusty baguette, filling it with a generous slab of panko-crumbed chicken katsu and cabbage, slathered in mayonnaise and tonkatsu sauce, Lucky Pickle (luckypickle. com.au) in Sydney’s Surry Hills has given the schnitzel roll the (delicious) Japanese treatment.

JAPANESE STORY“Irasshaimase!” yell the staff “Irasshaimase!” yell the staff

as you walk through the door as you walk through the door

at Harajuku Gyoza (harajuku at Harajuku Gyoza (harajuku

gyoza.com). It’s hard not to feel gyoza.com). It’s hard not to feel

at home when the greeting is at home when the greeting is

followed by steaming gyoza followed by steaming gyoza

and frosty ale. But it’s the and frosty ale. But it’s the

chicken karaage that steals chicken karaage that steals

the show. Marinated in ginger, the show. Marinated in ginger,

garlic and saké, coated in garlic and saké, coated in

a thin batter and fried until a thin batter and fried until

golden, it’s the perfect beer golden, it’s the perfect beer

snack. There are four outlets in snack. There are four outlets in

Brisbane, one in Queensland’s Brisbane, one in Queensland’s

Broadbeach and another in Broadbeach and another in

Sydney’s Potts Point. Sydney’s Potts Point.

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Illustration: Liz Kay


FULL STEAM AHEADAt Shandong Mama Mini (Shop 5,

Centre Place; 0416 662 992) in

Melbourne, there’s a strong case for

the pork-belly steamed bun, fried

chicken wings and shallot cake but

really it’s the dumplings you go for,

especially the mackerel dumplings.

A specialty of China’s Shandong

province, the fish is puréed into a

light, fluffy mousse then seasoned,

wrapped and cooked, pot-sticker

style, to perfection.

38Tokyo style Like the idea of beers, saké and stick food in the one space? Chaco Bar (chacobar.com.au), a small yakatori restaurant in Sydney’s Darlinghurst, does amazing grilled food. You could go for the chicken crackling – skin folded over a skewer and grilled until it’s smoky, soft and crunchy all at once – or the beautiful raw starters. But owner and chef Keita Abe is also the boss of ramen; it’s Tokyo-level stuff. The broth comes in four flavours: fat-soy, fish- salt, yuzu-salt or, my pick, chilli-coriander. 41

Spicy hot For top laksa, head to Malay-Chinese (malaychinese.com.au) in Hunter Street, Sydney. The coconut flavour doesn’t overpower the soup and the salt and heat are perfectly balanced. I love the tender chicken with an extra dollop of sambal – it’s killer-hot. Although you can expect big weekday crowds, the staff are experts at handling the hordes so you’ll only wait about 10 minutes.

39MADE TO ORDER Melbourne institution Flower Drum

(flowerdrum.melbourne) serves

arguably Australia’s best Chinese

food. Years ago, I mentioned

feeling like crab and noodles to

finish dinner so the kitchen cooked

mud crab with ginger and shallot,

plus crunchy noodles to soak up

the flavours. It was one of the

greatest dishes ever – they call

it “mud-crab noodles Neil Perry”.

The chef nominates his favourite Asian eateries in Australia right now, including one that comes with some personal history.

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From the kitchenOne of my favourite Korean places in Sydney, One of my favourite Korean places in Sydney,

Danjee (danjee.com.au) is a large restaurant that’s aDanjee (danjee.com.au) is a large restaurant that’s jeeDanjee (danjee.com.au) is a large restaurant that’s (daDanjee (danjee.com.au) is a large restaurant that’s jee.coDanjee (danjee.com.au) is a large restaurant that’s .au)Danjee (danjee.com.au) is a large restaurant that’s sDanjee (danjee.com.au) is a large restaurant that’s aDanjee (danjee.com.au) is a large restaurant that’s aDanjee (danjee.com.au) is a large restaurant that’s geDanjee (danjee.com.au) is a large restaurant that’s estauDanjee (danjee.com.au) is a large restaurant that’s aDanjee (danjee.com.au) is a large restaurant that’s tDanjee (danjee.com.au) is a large restaurant that’s tDanjee (danjee.com.au) is a large restaurant that’s atDanjee (danjee.com.au) is a large restaurant that’s sDanjee (danjee.com.au) is a large restaurant that’s split in two: you can either eat barbecue prepared by

the kitchen or cook at a little hotplate at your table. Stick to the kitchen. The heat and smoke from the

massive charcoal barbecue make the food so much more delicious. I love the bulgogi, Wagyu rib and

pork belly but try the yukhoe (above): thinly sliced raw beef with pear, cucumber, pine nuts, egg

and a sweet soy dressing.

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Andrew McConnell

Two for oneIf you want to do a little good in If you want to do a little good in Sydney, check out Table’s events Sydney, check out Table’s events (wearetable.org), which include (wearetable.org), which include dinners and cooking schools dinners and cooking schools run by some of the city’s best run by some of the city’s best chefs, with all profits going to chefs, with all profits going to charity. The group also offers charity. The group also offers a trailblazing lunch-delivery a trailblazing lunch-delivery service called Two Good Co. service called Two Good Co. (twogood.com.au), available (twogood.com.au), available in Sydney and Melbourne. For in Sydney and Melbourne. For this, the likes of Kylie Kwong this, the likes of Kylie Kwong and Yotam Ottolenghi have and Yotam Ottolenghi have created salad and soup recipes created salad and soup recipes that are made, packaged in jars that are made, packaged in jars and delivered to workplaces. and delivered to workplaces. For every one sold, another one For every one sold, another one goes to somebody living in a goes to somebody living in a shelter. Plus, the food is stellar.shelter. Plus, the food is stellar.

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A Kylie Kwong desk lunch that helps feed people in need? These clever companies combine feasting with philanthropy. By Freya Herring.

44Tucker time At Aboriginal Bush Traders (aboriginal-bush-traders.myshopify.com) in Darwin, 100 per cent of the profits go towards supporting Indigenous communities. Pop in to its café at Lyons Cottage on the Esplanade – nearly every dish on the menu features a native ingredient – and check out the shop, which sells ethically sourced Aboriginal arts and crafts.

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Waste not Millbrook Winery (millbrook.wine), in the rural town of Jarrahdale, Western Australia, is worth a visit for the scenery alone. But head there at the start of the week and you’ll find yourself part of No Waste Monday, when chefs transform perishable produce left over from their working week into inventive new recipes. Exciting and ethical? Sign us up.

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43OH, AFRICAKeen to explore a fascinating Keen to explore a fascinating

cuisine? Mu’ooz Eritrean cuisine? Mu’ooz Eritrean

Restaurant & Catering Restaurant & Catering

(muooz.com.au) in Brisbane’s (muooz.com.au) in Brisbane’s

West End dishes up traditional West End dishes up traditional

thick meat stews, perfect for thick meat stews, perfect for

mopping up with injera. The mopping up with injera. The

eatery also trains and employs eatery also trains and employs

female refugees from all parts female refugees from all parts

of the African continent. of the African continent.

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Illustrations: Liz Kay

F O O D F I G H T

Best fine-diner

47. CIRRUSCirrus (cirrusdining.com.au) offers

everything a beautiful night out

in Sydney should: sparkling water

views, delicious food, a thoughtfully

curated wine list (with lots of

naturals), a spectacular interior

that envelops the diner and the

sort of service that makes you

feel special as well as relaxed.

Best casual

48. BANKSIIVermouth is all the rage this

year and Banksii (banksii.sydney)

has built a bar and bistro around

it. Start with an apéritif from

the extensive collection before

diving into a menu featuring

native ingredients and inspired

by the herbaceous botanicals of

vermouth – think braised lamb

shoulder with saltbush and tangy

preserved lemon or trifle with

vermouth sponge, vanilla custard

and rosella jelly.

Best Asian

49. LOTUS DININGFor an upmarket dumpling

experience, look to Lotus Dining

(lotusdining.com.au). There’s

a seafood focus here, reflecting

the waterfront location, but

vegetarians and lovers of red meat

have plenty of options, too. There’s

a nod to Indigenous Australia, with

native foods such as lemon myrtle

and zesty finger lime on the menu.

Best dessert

50. 12-MICRON Don’t be fooled by the humble

names of the desserts here

(12micron.com.au). Designed by

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Darren Purchese, of Melbourne’s

Burch & Purchese Sweet Studio,

they are complex, multilayer

treats. Take the Carrot Cake:

the classic cake is paired with

carrots that have been candied

and transformed into ice-cream,

served with blood-orange

cream and freeze-dried licorice.

12-Micron is open late into the

night and, like counterpart Koi

Dessert Bar, offers a sweet

multi-course dégustation.

Ba

ran

ga

roo

Best bar

51. BÓRN BY TAPAVINOTaking inspiration from Barcelona’s

hip El Born district, Bórn by

Tapavino (tapavino barangaroo.

com) is an education in Spanish

food and wine. Don’t miss the

jamón Ibérico de bellota, a cured

ham that tastes of acorn and is

perfect with a rich, tannic rioja.


Best dessert

55. KOI DESSERT BARHeaded by MasterChef sugar

maestro Reynold Poernomo, Koi

Dessert Bar (koidessertbar.com.

au) serves beautiful cakes that

you may think at first glance are

ink-doused pebbles or ornate

terrariums. Sit inside for a formal

experience or find a spot in the

patch of greenery out the front

and dive in – the mango-and-yuzu

cake is one of our favourites.

Best bar

56. THE CLARE The Clare (theoldclarehotel.com.

au) is the main bar at Kensington

Street’s recently renovated show

stopper, The Old Clare Hotel. With

nods to its previous life as a classic

pub (note the original wall tiling),

the new outfit also includes a

vibrant central bar and a regularly

changing cocktail list.

Ke

nsi

ng

ton

Str

ee

t

Best fine-diner

52. AUTOMATAFeaturing an interior decorated

with engine parts, Automata

(automata.com.au) assaults the

senses as soon as you walk through

its big glass door. The five-course

set menu showcases the endless

creativity of chef Clayton Wells;

take his bug tail with white wine,

tahini yoghurt and kombu, for

example. (There’s also a brilliant

$55 three-course lunch menu.)

Best casual

53. KENSINGTON STREET SOCIALEnglish celebrity chef Jason

Atherton runs buzzy Kensington

Street Social (kensingtonstreet

social.com) – and you can tell,

because the menu often has a

distinctly British bent: eggs, black

pudding and beans for breakfast

and “tongue ’n’ cheek” croquettes

with piccalilli relish for tea. The

technique, however, is all French.

Best Asian

54. MEKONG No one country dictates the cuisine

at Mekong (mekong-restaurant.

com.au). Rather, the Mekong River

– which runs through Myanmar,

Laos, Thailand, Cambodia and

Vietnam – inspires the menu.

That means you might eat squid-

ink dumplings with chicken pho

for one course and barramundi

curry for the next, finishing with

taro custard and rose ice-cream.

It’s Barangaroo versus Kensington Street. Two of Sydney’s most exciting precincts go head-to-head. By Freya Herring.

B R E A K F A S TFuel up with the best brekkie menus in town. Smashed avo optional. By Carrie Hutchinson.

Mac ’n’ Mac ’n’ pleasepleaseBreakfast pasta. Yes, you read Breakfast pasta. Yes, you read that correctly. At Sicilian-that correctly. At Sicilian-influenced eatery Small Axe influenced eatery Small Axe Kitchen (smallaxekitchen.com) Kitchen (smallaxekitchen.com) in Melbourne, maccaruni is in Melbourne, maccaruni is topped with crisp guanciale topped with crisp guanciale (cured pork cheek), peas, mint, (cured pork cheek), peas, mint, salted ricotta, a slow-cooked salted ricotta, a slow-cooked egg and a grating of pecorino. egg and a grating of pecorino. This cheeky twist on carbonara This cheeky twist on carbonara is heaven in a bowl.is heaven in a bowl.

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61THAT TAKES THE (PAN)CAKEDarwinians reckon that one of

the best breakfast spots in the

city is Laneway Specialty Coffee

(lanewaycoffee.com.au) in Parap.

After tucking into the organic

buckwheat hot cake served with

fresh berries, seeds, vanilla-bean

panna cotta, pistachios and

cinnamon syrup, you won’t argue.

62WAFFLE ONLaden with peanut-butter cream,

dulce de leche (creamy caramel

sauce) and slices of banana, the

cocoa waffles at Hobart’s Pilgrim

Coffee (pilgrimcoffee.com) are

a sweet way to start the day.

66FEEL THE FUSIONAsian flavours meet the full English

at Boon Cafe (booncafe.com) in

Sydney’s Haymarket. The Big Boon

Breakfast is a tasting platter of

congee, skewered pork, baked eggs,

bacon, avocado, mushrooms and

sourdough. There’s enough energy

in one serve to keep you going all

day – or to share with a friend.

58Blue-sky morningBlue-sky morning

There was a time when blue had no business being edible There was a time when blue had no business being edible but at Concrete Jungle (concretejunglecafe.com) in Sydney’s but at Concrete Jungle (concretejunglecafe.com) in Sydney’s

Chippendale, it’s sought by anyone looking for a healthy hit. Chippendale, it’s sought by anyone looking for a healthy hit. The Blue Majik Smoothie Bowl is created by blending algae The Blue Majik Smoothie Bowl is created by blending algae

powder (an extract of spirulina, said to be packed full of powder (an extract of spirulina, said to be packed full of antioxidants and nutrients) with pineapple, banana, coconut antioxidants and nutrients) with pineapple, banana, coconut

yoghurt and coconut water. The crowning glory? Blueberries, yoghurt and coconut water. The crowning glory? Blueberries, coconut flakes, housemade granola and edible flowers.coconut flakes, housemade granola and edible flowers.

65Capital crunchIf you feel you should eat muesli but it seems a bit boring, you’ll love the amped-up version at Canberra’s stylish Mocan & Green Grout (mocanandgreen grout.com). The granola with roasted rhubarb, caramelised apple purée, vanilla labne and a black-and-white sesame crisp is a tasty, sin-free delight.

59BATTER UPIn America’s South, fried chicken

and waffles pops up on breakfast

menus with alarming regularity.

The savoury waffle at Rogue

bar and bistro (roguebistro.com)

in Brisbane is a fancy riff on the

classic, with popcorn chicken,

a fried egg, smoked aïoli, carrot

jam and maple syrup.

60MUSHROOM MAGICThe truffled mushroom ragù on

the breakfast menu at Adelaide’s

Bar 9 (bar9.com.au) consists of a

couple of slices of toast smothered

with creamy mushrooms then

topped with two poached eggs

and finished with a drizzle of

truffled honey. The locals will

riot if it’s ever removed.Photography: Lauren Bamford. Illustration: Liz Kay

BEST BETWEEN BREADBREADToastface Grillah Toastface Grillah

(toastfacegrillah.com) has (toastfacegrillah.com) has

an unforgettable name and an unforgettable name and

the best toasted sandwiches the best toasted sandwiches

in Perth. Pair an eye-opening in Perth. Pair an eye-opening

morning espresso with the morning espresso with the

Pear Grillz: blue cheese, pear Pear Grillz: blue cheese, pear

and lime chutney squished and lime chutney squished

into a simply delicious into a simply delicious

toastie. Devour it at a table toastie. Devour it at a table

overlooking the laneway overlooking the laneway

while the sun shines down.while the sun shines down.

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Just say oléWhy no-one had thought to serve tapas for breakfast before is anyone’s guess. Atfor breakfast before is anyone’s guess. At Melbourne’s Nómada (nomada.com.auMelbourne’s Nómada (nomada.com.au), there’s a lengthy menu of Mediterraneanthere’s a lengthy menu of Mediterranean treats to mix and match. You can’t go past the boquerones-and-mahón toastiepast the boquerones-and-mahón toastie (that’s Spanish for anchovies and mild, salty cheese) with a side of coal-blisteredsalty cheese) with a side of coal-blistered tomatoes and manchego. 63


N O B I L L S H O C KHow to dine at the country’s best restaurants without breaking the bank. By Freya Herring.

Nikki To

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Multiple-choiceMomofuku Seiōbo (seiobo.momofuku.com) at Momofuku Seiōbo (seiobo.momofuku.com) at The Star in Sydney is the only Momofuku outside The Star in Sydney is the only Momofuku outside the Americas. An alternative to the $185-a-head the Americas. An alternative to the $185-a-head tasting menu in the restaurant proper – especially tasting menu in the restaurant proper – especially if you can’t get a table – is to pull up a seat at the bar. if you can’t get a table – is to pull up a seat at the bar. They don’t take bookings but if you get there for the 6pm opening, it’s unlikely you’ll have to wait. A favourite from the dégustation menu, the Busted Roti – a Trinidad-style butter-drenched bread – is available at the bar and goes perfectly with the signature jerk pork chop ($42).

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69EAT LIKE A KING How to dine at Rockpool Bar

& Grill (rockpoolbarandgrill.

com.au) without splashing out?

The restaurant at Crown Perth

offers a weekday lunch with two

courses and a glass of sparkling

wine for just $50. The price even

includes parking.

DÉGUSTATION WITH A DIFFERENCE Rather than go the full dégustation at Brisbane’s

Esquire (esquire.net.au), check out the lunch

menu, priced from $60 to $90 depending on

the day’s dishes. There are plenty of courses

(five to seven) so it has the feel of a dégustation

without the lengthy table time or price tag.

If the kitchen is doing the Campari sherbet

dessert with orange sorbet and curds-and-

whey ice-cream, you’re in luck – this signature

dish of chef Ryan Squires lives up to the hype.

70 Curtain-raiser urtain-raiserCurtain-raiser

Dining at Bennelong (bennelong.com.au), within the sails of the Sydney Opera House, is one of the most glorious experiences in Australia. If you’re

attending a performance, choose the pre-theatre menu offering two or three incredible courses for $85 or $115, respectively, including executive

chef Peter Gilmore’s Eight-Texture Chocolate Cake of MasterChef fame. Here at Bennelong,

it’s called Chocolate Cake from Across the Water – a reference to the dessert’s origins at Gilmore’s other fine-diner, Quay, just across

the harbour in The Rocks.

73 First bite

From Tuesday to Thursday at Ides (idesmelbourne.com.au)

in Melbourne, you can try four dinner dishes that aren’t

yet on the menu for $65. Called Sample Tables, it’s a great way

to experience the kitchen’s creativity at its most raw.

PACKED LUNCHAvailable from Tuesday Available from Tuesday

to Sunday at Perth’s Nobu to Sunday at Perth’s Nobu

(noburestaurants.com), (noburestaurants.com),

the $45 lunchtime bento the $45 lunchtime bento

box showcases some of the box showcases some of the

restaurant’s most celebrated restaurant’s most celebrated

dishes, including the incredibly dishes, including the incredibly

tender black cod with miso. tender black cod with miso.

You also get sashimi, sushi, You also get sashimi, sushi,

sautéed vegetables, tempura sautéed vegetables, tempura

and miso soup. At Nobu in and miso soup. At Nobu in

Melbourne, the lunch box Melbourne, the lunch box

is $50 and includes tomato is $50 and includes tomato

ceviche, chicken katsu and ceviche, chicken katsu and

soft-shell crab (plus they’ll soft-shell crab (plus they’ll

throw in a glass of wine or throw in a glass of wine or

a local beer). Dégustation a local beer). Dégustation

in a box!in a box!

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Propose a toast Melbourne’s Cutler & Co. (cutlerandco.com.au) is a beautiful restaurant with culinary clout but if you don’t want a full-on feast, check out the bar menu. Nibble on first-rate smoked sardines on toast for only $8 or foie-gras-parfait gougères for $12.

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Wine & dineMore and more places are combining

the best elements of restaurants and wine bars: a chef-led menu, an eclectic

wine list and a grown-up but unpretentious ambience. Our picks

include Embla in Melbourne (embla.com.au), Perth’s Budburst Small Bar

(budburstsmallbar.com.au) and Sydney’s Restaurant Hubert (pictured

below; restauranthubert.com).

D R I N K SFrom wine bars to beer stars, Jo McKay says cheers to the best watering holes across the nation.

From the art Maybe because it’s a cellar door within an art gallery, Moorilla (moorilla.com.au), at MONA in Hobart, offers one of the most

glamorous wine-sampling experiences in the country. Book the one-hour Winery

Tour and Tasting, which includes a guided excursion around the on-site vineyards.

76Well matched

Don’t expect only wine when you order drinks paired with the tasting menu at Adelaide’s Botanic Gardens

Restaurant (botanicgardensrestaurant.com.au). Chef Paul Baker’s housemade vermouths include

aromatics – such as chargrilled rose petals and pepper or fennel and cumquat from the gardens themselves

– which are then used in quenching cocktails. Perhaps a prosecco spritzer to go with the snacks?

75DIVE INSip beers with the cool crowd at

the Gold Coast’s Balter (balter.

com.au). The Currumbin brewery

is a collaboration between seven

mates, including pro surfer Mick

Fanning, and has a cellar-door-like

set-up called Balter HQ. The vibe

is welcoming, the beers cold and

the space suited to chilling out. Keith Webb

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Hollie Adams

Canned heat With witty names such as Mar-tinny, Can-hattan and Cosmopoli-tin, the canned cocktails at Sydney’s Continental Deli Bar & Bistro (continental delicatessen.com.au) are on the money. Created to echo the traditional deli theme at this Newtown venue, where a number of sweet and savoury items are also canned for service (everything from chocolate cake to baked beans), these tinned drinks are a big hit – sometimes selling more than 200 in a week.

Classic cool Melbourne’s tiny Bar

Americano (baramericano.com) has standing room for just 10 people but it’s hugely

popular. Owner Matt Bax calls it an “homage to Harry’s Bar

in Venice, which seems delightfully stuck in the ’50s”. Hence, you’ll find only classic

cocktails here. Order a Negroni or the namesake Americano.

Season’s spirit They call Four Pillars’ Australian Christmas Gin (fourpillarsgin.com.au) “dangerously drinkable”. The rich mix of botanicals includes juniper, cinnamon and star anise, with a tweak of muscat and one unlikely addition: Christmas pudding. The 2017 limited-edition release will be available from 4 November but get in before it sells out.

HIGH LIFEOn the 11th floor, and with sensational On the 11th floor, and with sensational

views of the Brisbane skyline, Eleven views of the Brisbane skyline, Eleven

Rooftop Bar (elevenrooftopbar.com.au) Rooftop Bar (elevenrooftopbar.com.au)

in Fortitude Valley is a seriously impressive in Fortitude Valley is a seriously impressive

spot for sundowners. The summery Rosé spot for sundowners. The summery Rosé

Fizz is the pick of the cocktail menu. Fizz is the pick of the cocktail menu.

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85SLICE OF HEAVENKingston newcomer Agostinis

(agostinis.com.au) has the largest

pizza oven in Canberra and dishes

up seriously good Roman-style pie.

They know it, too: a pink neon sign

on the wall reads, “You had me at

pizza.” Ain’t that the truth?

P I Z Z APizza wars are heating up in cities around Australia. Here’s our pick

of those with the winning edge. By Jo McKay.

82PARTY DISCSAt Lazerpig (lazerpig.com.au) in

Melbourne’s Collingwood, it’s all

about the crust: the sourdough

culture has been on the go for

five years and all dough proves

for 72 hours before making its

way to the wood-fired oven. The

result? A blistered, chewy base

with a satisfying crunch and char

at the edge. Expect great tunes

here, too, particularly when the

disco balls and lasers get going.

As the website says, “Eat pizza,

dance for ages!”

Triple threatTony Tomatoes (tonytomatoes.com.au) in North Adelaide has a vibrant atmosphere, confident service and a smart menu that covers all bases. Three types, in fact: 72-hour-proved white- flour classic, superleggera (super-light) wholemeal and housemade gluten-free. The Roman-style pizzas come out of the oven thin and crisp. As for the toppings, Tony Pepperoni is a crowd-pleasing classic.

The Italian

jobVia Napoli (vianapoli

pizzeria.com.au) has such a lively vibe that you

could almost be in Italy – via Sydney’s Lane Cove,

Hunters Hill or Surry Hills. The pizzas, too, are super-

authentic, adhering to Neapolitan regulations.

If you’re dining with a large group (or you like to take

home leftovers) opt for the one-metre version.

Lauren Bamford

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88PIECE OF THE ACTIONSourdough bases, allowed to

rise for 48 hours, hand-stretched

and finished with traditional

and contemporary ingredients,

make Justin Lane Establishment

(justinlane.com.au) the pinnacle

of pizza on the Gold Coast. The

Burleigh Heads pizzeria’s most

popular? The seafood combo with

prawns and calamari – perfect for

the beachy location.

89STAR OF THE SOUTHWith a rustic, industrial feel,

communal tables and witty

names such as Porkipine and

Joe Formaggio, Local Pizza

(localpizzatas.com.au) would

be at home in Sydney’s Surry

Hills. But you’ll have to go to

Berriedale in Hobart for its

signature bases and inventive

toppings. Be prepared to wait

– it’s walk-ins only and popular.

Master

maker maker Johnny Di Francesco, Johnny Di Francesco, from 400 Gradi from 400 Gradi (400gradi.com.au) (400gradi.com.au) in Brunswick, in Brunswick, knows a good pie. knows a good pie. His margherita has His margherita has won the top honour won the top honour at the World Pizza at the World Pizza Championship in Championship in Italy. Made to strict Italy. Made to strict Neapolitan guidelines, Neapolitan guidelines, his pizzas have a thin his pizzas have a thin base, an airy crust and base, an airy crust and traditional toppings. traditional toppings. “We focus on quality... “We focus on quality... and the end result is and the end result is incredible,” he says. No incredible,” he says. No wonder Melburnians wonder Melburnians call him Mr Pizza.call him Mr Pizza.

SAY CHEESETania Nicolo and Ryan Tania Nicolo and Ryan

Bookless decided to call their Bookless decided to call their

Wembley eatery Monsterella Wembley eatery Monsterella

(monsterella.com.au) because (monsterella.com.au) because

that’s how their daughter, that’s how their daughter,

Mila, said mozzarella when she Mila, said mozzarella when she

was two. But this sweet story was two. But this sweet story

isn’t what draws the crowds isn’t what draws the crowds

to the Perth pizzeria; it’s the to the Perth pizzeria; it’s the

family-friendly vibe, the focus family-friendly vibe, the focus

on fresh ingredients and the on fresh ingredients and the

parade of just-crisp rounds parade of just-crisp rounds

from the wood-fired oven.from the wood-fired oven.

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Nomadic diningPicture yourself at a desert restaurant at night, its perimeters defined only by the sounds of nature and the Fervor team (fervor.com.au) preparing dishes using local and indigenous ingredients such as bush banana, macadamia-nut milk and native lemon grass. Ex-Noma chef Paul Iskov is at the helm of these pop-up dinners held in remote Western Australian locations, including the Pinnacles Desert and rural towns such as Mukinbudin.

Nikki To, Chris Gurney

92SWEET TWISTWhat could be more Australian

than a lamington? Said to be

named after former Queensland

governor Lord Lamington, the

classic little cake is a welcome sight

in Aussie cafés. At Bad Frankie

(badfrankie.com) in Melbourne’s

Fitzroy, it’s been transformed

into a jaffle – a coconut-dusted,

chocolate-soaked sponge sandwich

encasing hot jam – served with

a pot of cream for dipping.

93Tails of the unexpectedSydney chef Kylie Kwong puts multicultural Australia on a plate at her Potts Point eatery, Billy Kwong (billykwong.com.au), creating dishes that blend her Chinese heritage with indigenous produce. The red- braised caramelised wallaby tail is rich, sticky and umami, complemented by crisp saltbush cakes on the side.

A U S T R A L I A NDining experiences that showcase the flavours of Australia. By Freya Herring.

Counter culture

At the Cured & Cultured counter in Sydney’s Bennelong restaurant (bennelong.com.au), Bennelong restaurant (bennelong.com.au),

executive chef Peter Gilmore serves local executive chef Peter Gilmore serves local redclaw yabbies with tart lemon jam, redclaw yabbies with tart lemon jam,

cultured cream and buckwheat pikelets cultured cream and buckwheat pikelets against that famous harbour backdrop.against that famous harbour backdrop.

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95SWEET TOOTHIf you love dessert more than

dinner, The Aviary Dessert Kitchen

(aviarydessert kitchen.com.au) in

Adelaide is for you. There’s nothing

savoury in sight but you’ll find plenty

of reinvented classics, such as Eton

mess with Nutella mousse and

pavlova-flavoured panna cotta.

Sundaes, shareable (in theory)

Pecking Plates and the signature

Macaron Flower Pot, a macaron

served in a pot of gooey Belgian-

chocolate mud cake, round out

the menu.

Pretty lethalEqual parts genius and madness, the French toast at The Glass Den Cafe (15 Urquhart Glass Den Cafe (15 Urquhart Street, Coburg; 03 9354 5032) in Street, Coburg; 03 9354 5032) in Melbourne is a delightful serve Melbourne is a delightful serve of golden fried bread topped of golden fried bread topped with strawberry ice-cream and with strawberry ice-cream and seasonal berries and strewn seasonal berries and strewn with matcha soil, hazelnuts, with matcha soil, hazelnuts, toasted marshmallows and toasted marshmallows and citrus meringues. To top it all citrus meringues. To top it all off, it’s served with a pot of Nutella ganache for drizzling.

S U G A R H I TFrom seafood laksa ice-cream to boozy lemon meringue pie,

getting a sweet fix has never been so sophisticated. By Tristan Lutze.

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Lauren Bamford, Mark Sherwood

Little treasures treasures

Its handcrafted Its handcrafted confections are so confections are so lustrous, you’d be lustrous, you’d be

forgiven for thinking forgiven for thinking gforgiven for thinking that Only Mine that Only Mine

(onlymine.com.au) in (onlymine.com.au) in Victoria produces Victoria produces

magnificent pieces magnificent pieces of jewellery. But as of jewellery. But as resplendent as the

intricate treats are, it’s the flavours inside –

including matcha, dried apple and cinnamon

and Himalayan salted caramel – that will have you saying the company’s name

when somebody reaches for the last one.

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96LET THEM DRINK CAKEIs there anything more

enjoyable than a slice

of lemon meringue pie?

Yes, when you can sip it.

A concoction of advocaat,

vanilla vodka, cream and

lemon juice, this heavenly

cocktail is the work of

Melbourne’s premier vodka

bar, Borsch, Vodka & Tears

(borschvodkaandtears.com).

97INVENTIVE ICE-CREAMSeafood laksa ice-cream

might seem like a step too

far – ditto the black truffle

and roast potato flavours –

but it’s this kind of inspired

experimentation that has

made Canberra’s Frugii

Dessert Laboratory

(frugii.com) an institution.

For the less adventurous,

the ice-cream roster has

also featured passionfruit

pavlova, Christmas pudding

and Cherry Ripe.

Ice, ice, baby Gelato Messina (gelatomessina.com) reveals its creative,

scientific and culinary processes in the 2.5-hour Gelato Appreciation Class held at its Sydney, Melbourne

and Brisbane stores. The master gelaticians show you how they make their famous mixes, dish up a feast of inventive

desserts and send you home with a tub of happiness.

EDIBLE ARTChocolate from the Daintree

Rainforest is airbrushed onto the

plate, concealing a gently rippled

serve of rich wattleseed custard.

The reddish-brown surface is then

dotted with vanilla curd, bringing

to mind the Australian landscape

and Indigenous art. Fittingly, it’s

served in Brisbane at GOMA

Restaurant in the Queensland

Art Gallery and Gallery of

Modern Art (qagoma.qld.gov.au),

only metres from the works

that inspired it.

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S H H H . . .So, we lied. We promised you 100 dine-before-you-die experiences but then we discovered these under-the- experiences but then we discovered these under-the-

radar gems. Call it The Hungry 112, if you will. radar gems. Call it The Hungry 112, if you will.

Death by Death by pastrypastry

Melbourne’s home Melbourne’s home of cult baked goods, of cult baked goods, Lune Croissanterie Lune Croissanterie (lunecroissanterie.(lunecroissanterie.

com) in Fitzroy, hosts com) in Fitzroy, hosts a weekend-only a weekend-only

pastry dégustation in pastry dégustation in its climate-controlled its climate-controlled

Lune Lab. The eight Lune Lab. The eight people lucky enough people lucky enough

to land a seat get to to land a seat get to sample a three-course sample a three-course flight of experimental flight of experimental treats and feel superior treats and feel superior

to the hoi polloi to the hoi polloi queuing outside. queuing outside. Book well ahead.Book well ahead.

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Snack attackGuy Grossi’s Melbourne wine bar, Ombra

(ombrabar.com.au), embraces the tradition of aperitivo with all sorts of Italian deliciousness

being passed around, gratis, to keep your afternoon wind-down drink company. With

cheese, bread and olives, as well as housemade arancini and salumi fresh off the slicer, this is Italian hospitality at its finest. Better still, this

ritual goes for two hours, from 4.30pm each day.

QUEENSLAND CONFIDENTIAL

Brisbane loves an adventurous

drinker and locals prove their mettle

by hunting down the city’s obscure

hotspots. A case in point: The

Mermaid Lounge in Petrie Terrace.

This tiny bar within a bar, at Lefty’s

Old Time Music Hall (leftysoldtime

musichall.com), is accessed via a

grand staircase or, less salubriously,

a short cut through the toilets.

Sailor Jerry tattoo-style murals

decorate the walls, fishing nets

and stuffed sharks hang from the

ceiling and the rum-soaked vibe,

aided by an ’80s soundtrack, is as

relaxed as the dress code. Also try:

Heya Bar, Fortitude Valley (heya

bar.com). A series of underground

microbars in the bowels of the

former Sun newspaper building.

John Mills Himself, CBD (johnmills

himself.com.au). A staircase at

Archives Fine Books (archivesfine

books.com.au) leads to a café

that turns into a secret bar after

dark (accessed via an unassuming

Elizabeth Street driveway).

Greaser, Fortitude Valley (greaser.

com.au). Walk through the red

doors and down the rabbit hole to

get to this grungy basement bar

with an eclectic DJ-curated playlist.

The Walrus Club, Toowong (the

walrusclub.com.au). To find this

Prohibition-style bar, take the stairs

in the Regatta Hotel car park.

FRESH TAKEWith sweeping views over

Sydney’s beautiful Freshwater

Beach, Baretto (pilu.com.au)

is the recently opened (and still

little-known) wine bar and eatery

from fine-dining Sardinian

restaurant Pilu at Freshwater.

Try the $50 dégustation for dishes

such as warm potato bread with

whipped ricotta and bottarga

and the pillowy chestnut gnocchi.

Or just swing by for a glass of

Italian wine at sunset.

Tell ’em Frankie sent you

Everyone is in on the joke at Frankie’s Pizza by the Slice

(frankiespizzabytheslice.com) in Sydney’s CBD, where the

pizza parlour at the front hides the heaving rock ’n’ roll bar out

the back. It also boasts a tiny bar within a bar that used to

be a chill space for bands. Take the fire door to the right of the

stage, head down the stairs and through the brown door.

Welcome to Frankie’s Fun Room, a world of bluegrass, whisky and beer in tinnies. Oh, and it’s only open after

9pm (6pm on Friday).

Sneaky chef’s tableOr should that be chef’s counter?

The few seats near the pass at Bread in Common (breadin common.com.au) in Perth’s Fremantle are walk-in only

but the reward repays the risk. Score one and chef/co-owner

Scott Brannigan will serve you his plates of the moment, plus

sneak in some experiments inspired by produce from his

network of farmers.Photography: Peter Tarasiuk, Mark Roper. Illustration: Liz Kay

RAW AMBITIONThe tiny town of Geeveston in southern Tasmania,

population 1431, is home to the best sushi in the state,

thanks to Wakayama-born sushi master Masaaki Koyama.

The unassuming Masaaki’s Sushi (0408 712 340) is open

Friday to Sunday, for lunch only, but the 30-metre queue

is testament to the all-Tasmanian seafood. Get in line for

striped trumpeter and southern bluefin tuna, plus crayfish

miso and fire-packed local wasabi.

Cheers to Hestonto Heston

It’s one of Melbourne’s top restaurants It’s one of Melbourne’s top restaurants but Dinner by Heston Blumenthal but Dinner by Heston Blumenthal

(dinnerbyheston.com.au) also boasts (dinnerbyheston.com.au) also boasts a bar worthy of the keenest cocktail a bar worthy of the keenest cocktail connoisseur. It was previously open connoisseur. It was previously open

only to those with a dinner reservation only to those with a dinner reservation but now you can slip in unannounced but now you can slip in unannounced anytime. Perhaps they should rename anytime. Perhaps they should rename

it Drinks by Heston.it Drinks by Heston.


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