Audi S2 Heater Matrix

Main text body - Paul Goodwin Pictures – Ian Simmonds

right at the back of the engine bay, hidden in a tangle of pipes and sharp brackets!

Kažu da je grejaè matrica prvi deo koji su ugradili u auto – onda sve ostalo. To je istina!Nažalost, jedini put da se reši problem sa radijatorom je da se izvadi cela tabla.Najdramatièniji deo ovog posla je pokušavanje da se pristupi nekim kljuènim zavrtnjima,

Zato duboko udahnite, sedite na vozaèevo sedište i sve što vidite treba da bude uklonjeno.Najgori deo razmišljanje o tome – kada se krene sa poslom, rastavljanje i nije tako teško.

Firstly, if the car has Air-Con. Get this de-gassed first.Potreba alat:: Phillips screwdriver, 8m, 10mm, 13mm socket and wrench, allen key

Za ovo ãe vam trebati par dana – bez žurbe, tako da treba raditi na nekom mestu koje omoguãavada vam vrata od auta budu skroz otvorena na neki duži vremenski period.Ovo nije posao koji treba raditi na ulici.

Volan i satovi

Postoji puno priruènika koji ubjašnjavaju ovaj deo posla, tako da ga mi neãemo deteljno opisivati. Useful info on Mikes site here: http://www.s2-audi.co.uk/tech_articles/outside_temp_display.htm.Najjednostavnije mesto da poènete je da skinete volan – koristite kljuè 24mm sa dugom drškom.

Vodite raèuna da su vam toèkovi postavljeni pravo.

Sledeãe na redu su ruèice iza volana I njihovokuãište. Ovde postoje dva vertikalna šrafa sa krstastom glavom – videãete ispod rupe zapristup sa obe strane.Uklonite gornji deo kuãištatako što ãe te ga pažljivo povuãi prema sebi.

Donji deo kuãišta je spojen sa ruèicama. Prvo pažljivo odvojte multi-konektore. Dva veãa, po jedan sa obe strane i jedan manji (bordkompjuter). Same ruèice su spojene šelnom za štap volana. Na šelni postoji šraf koji treba dovoljno odvrnuti kako bi se šelnaoslobodila od štapa. Ovo je jedna od komplikovanijih operacija i odužeãe vam dostavremena. Kada dovoljno oslobodite šelnu,pažljivo svucite sve kompletno.

Sat sa istrumentima se oslobadja odvrtanjemdva šrafa koja se nalaze iznad štapa volana.Pažljivo povucite sat prema sebi.Videãete dva konektora koji na sredini imajuobojene „osiguraèe“.Upotrebite mali ravniodvijaè kako bi pomerili osiguraèe unazad Ionda izvucite konektore. Kada iskljuèite svekonektore sat ãe biti oslobodjen.

Kaseta ispod upravljaèa takodje treba biti uklonjena.Na njoj se nalaze 3 šrafa na dugoj ravnoj strani i jedan desno dole, kod ruèice za otvaranje haube.

Centre

Dash

Consol.

Postije još dva šrafa na „krovu“ police.Polica bi samo trebala da spadne dole i samo je povucite ka sebi.

Primetiãete daduž prednjegdela ležišta police postoje još 3 šrafa sa crnim podloškama. Postoji još jedana oblast, otprilike u oblastigde se nalazi ruèica za haubu i tu se nalazi još jedan šraf.

Zapišite kako ovo stoji, jer treba da se podudara sašrafovima kada budete vraãali. On takoðe drži i mesingane klipse i ako njih ne vratite napravo mesto, neãete moãi da uvrnete šrafove koji drže policu !Zapišite kako ovo sve stoji i onda uklonite šrafove.

Još jednostavnih stvari,samo verujte u sebe.Ovde je plastièna konzola koja drži prekidaèe, radio i kontrole grejanja. Prvo izvucite radio i otkaèite ga.Tri centralna prekidaèa naokretanje takodje treba izvuãi.Zatim odvijte dva zlatna šrafa i požljivo izvucite masku.

Ovde ãete videti dva malašrafa koji osiguravajupepeljaru (ili kontrolnesatove).

Ovi šrafovi fiksiraju plastiène vodjice koje obezbedjujudržanje glavnog ožièenja koje se pruža duž ivice ležišta police (savijen u obliku velikog znaka pitanja) koji pridržava i vodi uže, saèinjeno od snopa žica, oko gornjeg prednjeg dela table sve do centralne oblasti.Ožièenje kreæe od donjeg desnog dela ivice police...

Zatim uklonite 4 crna šrafa koja prièvršãuju jedinicuza kontrolu grejanja sa centralnom konzolom.Neobièno, ova jedinica se nalazi iza centralne konzolei možemo je ostaviti tu za sada, jer ne ometa daljerasklapanje.Postoje 4x8mm šrafa koja povezuju centralnu konzolu sa kokpitom, po jedan u svakom uglu.

Dva na vrhu su lako dostupna, druga dva su sakrivena u rupama na dnu.

Ja sam koristio elektrièni odvijaè sa 8mm adapterom- jedan od najboljih alata koje sam kupio.Vrlo koristan za ovaj posao. Kada uklonite ova èetirišrafa, pokušajte da povlaèenje odvojitekompletnu centralnu konzolu od kokpita.

Svi konektori su kodirani bojom.Možda ãe te se malo namuèiti dok ihotkaèite, ali kad uspete, konzola bitrebala da bude oslobodjena,a na njoj ãe ostati svi prekidaèi, štoãe vam znatno olakšati posaoprilikom sklapanja.

Ona ãe I dalje ostati povezana za kokpit, ali bi trebalo da dobijetedovoljno slobodnog prostora da rukom pridjete iza I odvojite svekonektore od zadnje strane prekidaèa.

Uklonite samo šrafove – kontrole grejanja ãete lakše izvaditi kad se ukloni cela konzola.Ovo smo uradili da bi se izbeglo lomljenje malih crnih držaèa.

ic

Centre Handbrake Consol

There a little blanking plate in the forward part of the handbrake grab recess that when prised off reveals another black 8mm hex headed bolt to be removed. This secures the centre to the

the large 13mm nyloc bolt and washer underneath. Different models have slightly different arrangements here, some have two bout either side. Might take a little persuasion but the centre and middle part of the consol should now be free to be slide upwards and apart from each other. They are held together by a couple of locating lugs which disengage with a little upwards movements of either one. The middle consol should be capable of being pushed back into the rear of the car a good few inches, without removing the handbrake cover, it usually slides through just enough to manoeuvre the centre consol free. Bit tricky and this will make more sense when you’re looking at it!

Most Centre consoles in my experience have been badly removed at sometime in their past, resulting in the tabs being broken that slide over two metal clips on either side of the bottom centre part of the dash, straddling the VDO’s. Just be aware that these clips are there and that the tabs are plastic and very easy to break! Pull the centre consol towards you and upwards and you should be ok – as follows!

Unscrew the gearknob and start to gently guide the centre consol back and up to free it, the gaiter just slides over the gear stick. Remove that little bit of black trim that sits on top of the VDO’s. Pull the consol back (into the car) a little way then feel behind the VDO’s, following the wires back under the metal bracket that’s on the bottom of the centre part of the dash. The connectors are hidden underneath but easily pulled out to access. There’s a white plug for the VDO’s, muffled in foam usually a smaller brown plug also. This is the feed to the cigar lighter and

illumination and you’ll see the wire running between the 2 sections of the consol. It’s a bit fiddly but the plug to the lighter and bulb should come free easily enough and you can now continue to ease the centre consol back and up till its clear.

rear/middle consol. Remove the rear ashtray and undo

Skidanje table.

Dobar deo pripreme je završen – na redu je instrument

tabla! Instrument tablu uglavnom pridržavaju šestougaoni

zavrtnji velièine 4 x 8 mm, po 2 sa obe strane pored vrata.

Sakriveni su iza dva plastièna poklopca koje treba

(nasilno) otvoriti. Dobro obratite pažnju na položaj instru-

ment table u odnosu na stub vetrobrana i vrata, radi

lakšeg ponovnog postavljanja.

Uklonite pomenute zavrtnje.

Na sredini, instrument tabla je prièvršãena za metalni

držaè, ispod kojeg su bili nabijeni utikaèi za video.

Uklonite i ovaj držaè. Sa obe strane držaèa postoje dva

zavrtnja koja ga prièvršãuju za pod automobila / prenosni

tunel – ti zavrtnji su ispod tepiha, ali postoji mali prorez za

lakši pristup. Postoje dva zavrtnja (mislim da su

šestougaoni preènika 8 mm) sa obe strane držaèa, koji ga

prièvršãuju za donji središnji deo instrument table. Kada

se izvade zavrtnji, potrebno je malo manevrisanja da bi se

izvadio držaè, jer se tu nalaze plastièni ventili koji

snabdevaju zadnji deo putem prenosnog tunela.

Pogledajte pravo u rupu gde je stajala centralna

jedinica i videãete zakrivljeni centralni ventilacioni

kanal, koji izgleda kao izoblièena crna tuba! Negde na

polovini te rupe, sa obe strane, nalaze se 2 srebrne

matice zavrtnja preènika 8 mm koje treba ukloniti.

Ti zavrtnji su prièvršãeni za kuãište matrice. Zavrtanj sa vaše desne

strane je spojen sa ljubièasto-braon multiplug konektorom koji

pripada sistemu žica ventilatora i ne morate ga pomerati. Iza ovog

prikljuèka nalazi se još kanala koji dolaze od instrument table.

Možete samo odvrnuti dva donja zavrtnja i ostaviti

držaè povezan za instrument tablu, ali mislim da je

jednostavnije kada je držaè u potpunosti uklonjen.

Ti kanali su prièvršãeni malim šrafom koji treba ukloniti,

pošto ovaj deo kanala mora da se rastavi kako bi

instrument tabla mogla da se skloni. Ne vidi se dobro,

ali centralni ventilacioni kanal i glavni kanal za

odmagljivanje vetrobrana su povezani sa instrument

tablom, pa se stoga vade zajedno sa instrument tablom!

UKLANJANJE VENTILACIONOG SISTEMA

Tako! A sad teži deo! Uz lagano i pažljivo povlaèenje,

instrument tablu moãi ãete da privuèete sebi, a zatim i da je

izvadite iz automobila!! Ako je povuèete nekoliko centimetara

unapred, instrument tablu ãe i dalje podupirati stub

upravljaèa i držaèi sa obe strane. To je dovoljno da pogledate

iza table kako biste bili sigurni da je sve otkaèeno. Proverite

da li ste 3 multikonektora za stalke progurali kroz ovalnu rupu

predviðenu za stub upravljaèa – rupa je uzana, ali multikone-

ktori moraju biti izvuèeni. Još malo truda i instrument tabla

može da se izvadi. Nije na odmet ako imate nekog da vam

pomogne, ali ja sam radio ovo sam veã par puta. Doduše,

instrument tablu lakše je izvaditi, nego vratiti je nazad!

OK – kada

pogledate nazad

u auto, nemojte

da panièite!!

Verovatno ãete

pomisliti –

zaboga, šta sam to uradio!! U sred auta videãete gomilu

špageta, pogotovo ako imate ugraðenu klimu:

ali zapravo i nije toliko strašno ako popijete koju tabletu

za smirenje i uvidite za šta služe svi ti sistemi žica,

kuda se prostiru, itd. Glavni deo se nalazi na crnoj,

krutoj podlozi. Sve je zapravo prilièno pouèno!

Na vrhu kuãišta ventilatora videãete dva konektora

povezana sa sistemom otpornika za ventilator.

Gornji konektor je glavno napajanje i treba ga

iskljuèiti. Pratite sistem žica na vrhu ventilatora i

odvojite ga. Donji utikaè možete ostaviti,

jer on napaja motor ventilatora.

AUTOMOBILI SA KLIMOM

Nakon toga, treba da izaðete iz automobila da biste došli

do 2 zavrtnja preènika 8 mm koji prièvršãuju ventilator.

Da biste to izveli, prvo treba da uklonite brisaè sa suvoza-

èeve strane, zavrtanj preènika 13 mm ispod malog crnog

poklopca. Zatim, uz pomoã novèiãa, okrenite 4 velika

osiguravajuãa zaptivaèa na plastiènoj dekoraciji / prekrijte

samo ivicu vetrobrana i ležišta motora. Takoðe, povucite

gumenu traku sa ivice u zadnjem delu ležišta motora. Kad

to sklonite, ispod svega ãete verovatno naãi mnogo nakupljene prljavštine, kao i plastièni

poklopac i rešetku koja stoji na spoljašnjem delu ventilatora.

Pre svega treba ukloniti dve matice zavrtnja preènika

10 mm, a gornji deo poklopca treba odvojiti. Ispod njega

nalazi se plastièni zaptivaè koji treba pažljivo odvojiti.

Tako ostaju samo 2 vijka prièvršãena maticama preènika

8 mm koji prolaze kroz

pregradu i ulaze u gornji

deo ventilatora. Ako

imate klimu, videãete i

mali bosh motor koji

služi za recalculating poklopca, koji može da onemoguãi

pristup.

Nakon što se uklonili ove

zavrtnje, možete izvaditi i

ventilator, ali tek nakon što uklonite i 4 spojnice koje povezuju

ventilator sa kuãištem centralne matrice. Na mestu dodira ova

dva elementa, lako ãete uoèiti i spojnice. Nezgodno je ukloniti

ih i èesto se dešava da odfijuèu, ali slobodno ih pažljivo

odvojite – dva se nalaze na ivici okrenutoj ka vama, a druga

dva su sakrivena iza. U ovoj fazi oslobodite ECU (elektronsku

kontrolnu jedinicu) iz kaveza koji je povezan sa zadnjim delom

ove jedinice. Kada ste to obavili, ostaje vam samo da uklonite

kontrolni kabl – budite pažljivi i pratite uputstva data ispod!

Vrlo je nezgodno izvaditi osiguravajuãi zaptivaè (mislim da je

braon boje) – ali, ako ništa drugo, ovaj se bolje vidi od ostalih

koji se nalaze ispod samog kuãišta matrice, tako da je dobro

poèeti s njim!! Kad završite s tim, trebalo bi da možete izvaditi

ceo ventilacioni sistem!

U ležištu motora, otkaèite veliki blok konektora

koji se nalazi sasvim nisko ispod ABS jedinice.

Osim toga, kruti sistem cevi prièvršãen je uz

pregradu (protivpožarni zid) i uz prednju polugu.

Pratite sistem cevi sve do prvog osiguravajuãeg

zgloba i iskljuèite ih (utikaè velièine 10 mm).

Razdvajanje ovih delova stvara dodatni prostor.

Nakon razdvajanja, prekrijte izložene krajeve

kako biste spreèili unos prljavštine u ceo sistem.

UKLANJANJE GREJAÈA KABINE

U ovoj fazi, uklonio sam strut

brace (neka spojnica) i isklju-

èio elektrièni konektor koji je

najbliži gornjem zavrtnju.

Donji zavrtanj je toliko nedo-

stupan da nisam mogao da

ga uslikam, ali moguãe je

(jedva) okrenuti kljuè za

osminu kruga.

Ovo ãe potrajati...

Jedinica grejaèa kabina je prièvršãena sa dva zavrtnja špicastih

vrhova koji se nalaze na zadnjem delu držaèa, prolaze kroz

protivpožarni zid i zavrnuti su sa te strane.

U zavisnosti

od motora

(80 ili S2), ove

zavrtnje može

biti relativno

lako naãi i

ukloniti!

Takoðe iz

sistema cevi

za napajanje

matrice treba

ukloniti i dva

creva za dovod koja štrèe kroz pregradu. Creva su prièvršãena

sa stegama za crevo, i jednostavno se izvlaèe, ali budite

oprezni, jer možda još uvek ima vode unutra.

Nazad unutar auta, treba da uklonite

kontrolne kablove ventilatora na mestu

gde su povezani sa raznim delovima

konzole matrice. Svi su oznaèeni

bojama, i kontrolišu klapne ventilatora

koje usmeravaju vruã ili nezagrejan

vazduh. Na kraju žice nalazi se mali

kružni obruè koji se povezuje sa malom

drškom kontrolnog mehanizma za

razlièite klapne. Ovo se jednostvno

odvaja uz malo sile – mislim da sam

koristio klješta za podešavanje. Ovaj

deo Bowden kabla se lako pomera,

a spoljni omotaè je prièvršãen za

kuãište matrice uz pomoã spojnica oznaèenih odgovarajuãom bojom.

BUDITE VRLO OPREZNI sa ovim spojnicama!! Mogu vrlo lako da puknu ako zbrzate ovaj korak,

i kao sa svakim sliènim kablom, ako spoljni omotaè ne može dobro da se prièvrsti prilikom

ponovnog sklapanja, neãe ni raditi kako treba! Svaka spojnica ima dva dela za povezivanje

– zakrivljeni deo za smeštanje koji upada u mali prorez i nije odmah vidljiv, i veãi deo za

prièvršãivanje koja je vidljiviji. Odvojite ovaj veãi i zašiljeni deo od mesta na kom se nalazi na

kuãištu, ali nastavite da ga pomerate unazad u tom pravcu kako biste bili sigurni da skriveni,

zakrivljeni deo može potpuno da se oslobodi iz proreza. Upravo ovaj deo uglavnom pukne ako

ne obezbedite dovoljno prostora za pomeranje kako bi ovaj manji deo oslobodili i izvadili iz

proreza! Ovaj korak je baš zamoran – ali nemojte žuriti dok ga obavljate!!

KLIMA

This is a list of personal experiences and not a maintenance procedure.

Pošto ste uklonili ove kablove, grejaè kabine može se povuãi od ispod pregrade, i izvuãi

napolje – usput izvucite dve cevi za napajanje na samom grejaèu kabine, kao i zavrtnje!

Osnova ima footwell vents i vezana je za ventile koji se protežu duže strane prenosnog

tunela do zadnjeg dela automobila. Ventili se spajaju jedino u prorezu i mogu se lako

rastaviti.

Pošto ste oslobodili

celu jedinicu, primeti-

ãete vrh grejaèa kabine

koji se vadi tako što

ãete ga povuãi na gore

i zatim van glavnog

kuãišta.

U zavisnosti od

kolièine vode koja je do

sada iscurila, sada je

dobra prilika da oèistite

delove tepiha koji se

inaèe ne vide!!

Sve što sada treba da uradite je da sve

ponovo sastavite!!

Prilikom ponovnog sklapanja, bila bi dobra ideja da obnovite spojnice na spojevima cevi.

Kao opšte upozorenje, predlažem da testirate lampice instrumenata prilikom ponovnog

sklapanja, pošto im rasklapanje èesto ne prija.

Audi S2 Heater Matrix

Main text body - Paul Goodwin Pictures – Ian Simmonds

They say that the heater matrix is the first part they put in the car – the build the rest around it. That’s very true! Unfortunately the only way to fix a problem with the matrix as

a result is to take the dash out – not for the feint hearted but relatively straightforward. On an S2, the most demanding part is trying to get access to some key bolts, right at the

back of the engine bay, hidden in a tangle of pipes and sharp brackets! So take a deep breath and, sitting in the drivers seat everything you’re looking at has to be removed!! That’s the worst part, thinking about it – once you get going its not so bad especially with a few pointers! Firstly, if the car has Air-Con. Get this de-gassed first. Tools you’ll need: Phillips screwdriver, 8m, 10mm, 13mm socket and wrench, allen key This will probably take a couple of days unrushed – so you obviously need somewhere to work and to be able to have the doors fully open for long periods of time. This is not a job to do on the street if you can avoid it!!

Steering wheel and Clocks

here’s a lot of guides explaining this part so I’ll not go into too much detail here. Useful fo on Mikes site here: http://www.s2-

Tinaudi.co.uk/tech_articles/outside_temp_display.htm. Simplest place to start is to take off

the steering wheel – usually a 24mm socket on a long bar should do it.

Make sure the wheels are aligned nice &

mes the

indicator stalks and shroud. There are two vertically fitted cross head screws – you’ll see the access holes on either side underneath. Once removed gently remove the top of the shroud – its got

straight. I must admit tho, I’ve never tried this on a car with an airbag!! Next co

locating lugs on the sides and there’s 2 rubber edged plugs that locate in a little slot like might

brake them.

The lower part of the shroud is attached to the stalks. I unplugged the multi-connectors at this point as they are in tight and need careful force to part them. Two larger ones on either side and a smaller cream one for the board computer. The stalks themselves are

brass collar. There’s a slot under the shroud

ly to be pulled free and off the steering column.

ing you d on through the steering As a result you need to angle the screwdriver or

r part of the job!! Once loosened the stalks simply pull forward off the end f the steering column.

le.

ght as you look at the clocks is blue There’s 3 more onnectors on the left hand side of the clocks as you ok at them. It’s the same for the two larger coloured

py

awaccmanoeuvred out.

affair on the lower front on the clocks so be carefully to pull forwards slightly or you

and depending on what you have it could bea cross head or allen key bolt to loosen thecollar sufficiently for the stalk assembHard to describe this but if you imagcolumn the bolt sits at about 8 o’clock. allen key through the slot underneath and can be a bit tricky to locate! I actually wasted more time on this part trying to work out if I had an allen key of a screw in there than I think any othe

attached to the steering column by a small

’re looking hea

o

multi-plugs on the back are a bit trickyand have a coloured clip in the middUse a flat blade screwdriver to leaver this clip upwards. The clips once proud of the plugs then acts like a handle to

pull on and release the connector. The one on the

The clock binnacle is secured by two brass screws either side of the locator that seats the upper cover for the indicator stalks and above the steering column. You can’t miss them! Gently tip the top of the clocks back and ease the base forwards, right hand side first. The

riclo

lugs ellow nd hite) nd a small black plug for the board omputer which just gently pulls free. The locks should then be able to be

(

The tray beneath the steering wheel also needs to be removed – all 8mm hex

headed bolts. There’s 3 along the front edge and one right down where the bonnet release is. There’s 2 more inside the “roof” of the shelf. The shelf will probably just drop

down and can be pull towards you and withdrawn.

are 3 s w

you’ve just removed. There’s another down by the e area, roughly where the other bolt was

e secure the main wiring harness to the lower he dash – its sits in a rigid plastic guide (shaped

loright round the lip where the sback behind the centre dash athis sits as it need to match upback together. It also h

ncrews.

uff, just a bit fiddly. There is a

l / rack that holds the switches, CD ls. So firstly remove and unplug

lso

usually easy enough by prying carefully from

r

You’ll notice along the front lip where the shelf fits theremore screw ith black washers, roughly adjacent to the bolts bonnet releasalso. Thesedge of t

wer edge, and goes helf joins then ducks rea. Take note of how with the screws when brass clips that the

shelf bolts secure to and if these arnt in the right positioMake a note of how it sits and remove the 4 locating s

Centre Dash Consol.More straightforward stcentre plastic consoradio and heater controyour cd / radio. The 3 centre heater vents aneed to be removed,

a little like a large question mark) that supports and guides the rope like bundle of wires around the lower front of the dash to the centre area. It starts at the lower right hand edge of the dash, bonnet grab area, its tucked snugly against the

olds the you’ll not get the shelf back on!

underneath. Next remove the 3 heater control knobs – either with pliers and some protective cardboard othey can be carefully prised out where the central grab part of the

dial has a flat end. Two goldish hex-headed screws will be evident in the recess of the outer two dials. With these screws out the dial plate can be levered out. You’ll see two similar looking hex screw heads that secure the

little bit of black plastic trim that sits on the top of the VDO’s with 2 lugs that poke up from below though slots into the lower part of the dashboard. Remove the screws fonow – the trim itself will be easier to remove when the centre consol is loose. It’s the failure to do this that breaks locating lugs on the consol at either side of the VDO;s andcauses it to sag on either side!

Next up remove the 4 black dom

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e headed screws

consol. Unusually this unit sits behind the consol self and can be left for now as it doesn’t really

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with an adapter to fit an electric once of the best little tools I’ve

ry useful for this job! With these uld

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enough clearance to get in behind and paway from theswitches. The

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that attached the heater blower unit to the dash

itinterfere with the consol removal. There are 4 x 8mm hex headed screws that secure the centre consol to the dash, o

hidden at the end of access holes. I used an 8mm socket screwdriver – ever bought! Veremoved it shonow be possible to pull the consol away slightly from the main dash. Its still attachould be able to get ull the connectors back of the se are all a colour

coded plug to the switch. Might take a good tug but once they arall removed this should leavconsol free to be withdrawn and with all the switches still in placewhich I reckon makes it easier when refitting.

each corner. The top 2 are easy to get at, the lower are

by the bank of dash switches but you sh

Centre Handbrake Consol

There a little blanking plate in the forward part of the handbrake grab recess that when prised off reveals another black 8mm hex headed bolt to be removed. This secures the centre to the rear/middle consol. Remove the rear ashtray and undo the large

13mm nyloc bolt and washer underneath. Different models have slightly different arrangements here, some have two bout either side. Might take a little persuasion but the centre and middle part of the consol should now be free to be slide upwards and apart from each other. They are held together by a couple of locating lugs which disengage with a little upwards movements of either one. The middle consol should be capable of being pushed back into the rear of the car a good few inches, without removing the handbrake cover, it usually slides through just enough to manoeuvre the centre consol free. Bit tricky and this will make more sense when you’re looking at it! Most Centre consoles in my experience have been badly removed at sometime in their past, resulting in the tabs being broken that slide over two metal clips on either side of the bottom centre part of the dash, straddling the VDO’s. Just be aware that these clips are there and that the tabs are plastic and very easy to break! Pull the centre consol towards you and upwards and you should be ok – as follows! Unscrew the gearknob and start to gently guide the centre consol back and up to free it,

the gaiter just slides over the gear stick. Remove that little bit of black trim that sits on top of the VDO’s. Pull the consol back (into the car) a little way then feel behind the VDO’s, following the wires back under the metal bracket that’s on the bottom of the centre part of the dash. The connectors are hidden underneath but easily pulled out to access. There’s a white plug for the VDO’s, muffled in foam usually a smaller brown plug also. This is the feed to the cigar lighter and

illumination and you’ll see the wire running between the 2 sections of the consol. It’s a bit fiddly but the plug to the lighter and bulb should come free easily enough and you can now continue to ease the centre consol back and up till its clear.

Removing the Dash That’s most of the prep work – next up it’s the dash itself! The dash, amazingly is mainly held in place by 4 x 8mm hex bolts, 2 on either side by the door. They are hidden behind two plastic caps on either side than are prised off. Take note as best you can of how the dash sits against the windscreen pillar and door for realignment later. Remove these bolts. Centrally, the dash is secured by the metal bracket

the VDO plugs were stuffed under. Remove this bracket next. There’s two bolts either side that secure it to the floorpan / transmission tunnel – they’re behind the carpet but there’s a little flap cut for access. There’s 2 bolts (8mm hex I think) on either side that secure the bracket to lower centre part of the dash itself. With the bolts out it takes a bit of manoeuvring to get this out over the plastic vents that feed the rear along the transmission tunnel. You could

just undo the 2 lower bolts and leave the bracket attached to the dash but I think its easier with the bracket removed entirely. Look straight at the hole where the centre unit lived and you’ll see the curve of the centre vent ducting, like a misshapen black tuba! About halfway up on either side there are two 8mm

silver nuts to be removed. The bolts are fixed to the matrix housing. The right hand one as you look at it has a purple/ brown multipulg connector clipped to it that’s part of the blower wiring which can be left as is. Behind this plug more ducting joins where it comes down from the dash. This is

secured by a small screw and needs to be removed as this part of the ducting needs to come apart when the dash is removed. It’s difficult to see but the centre vent ducting and the main windscreen demisting ducting are attached to the dash and as such come out with it!

Right! Now for the heavy bit! With a bit of careful tugging the dash should be free to be with drawn towards you and then out of the car!! Pull it it a few inches forward, it should still rest on the steering column and the side supports enough to allow a quick check behind to make sure everything is loose. Make sure the 3 mulitconnectors for the stalks have been pushed through the oval hole for the steering column –it’s a bit tight but they need to be out of the way. Bit more effort and out comes the dash!! Does help to have an assistant, but Ive done this a couple of times on my own now. Getting it out is easier than getting it back in though!

Ok – when you look back into the car don’t panic!! You’ll probably think -what on earth have I done!! You’ll have a big plate of spaghetti sitting in the middle of the car, more so if you’ve got aircon, but its actually not so

bad once you pop a couple of prozac and look at what the wiring does, where it runs etc. the main bulk is on that rigid black support. Very educational actually! Blower Unit removal At the top of the blower housing you’ll see two connectors plugged into the resistor pack for the blower unit. The top one is the main power feed and needs to unplugged. Follow the wiring along the top pf the blower unit and unclip it. The lower plug can be left as it is the power feed to the blower motor.

Next you need to go outside the car the get at the 2x 8mm bolts that secure the blower unit. For this you’ll need to remove the passenger side wiper, 13mm bolt under the little black cap. Then turn with a coin the 4 large secure washers on the plastic trim / shroud only the edge of the windscreen and engine bay. Pull back the rubber strip from the lip at the back of the engine bay also. With this removed you’ll probably find a lot of accumulated muck under there and the plastic cowl and grill that sits on the outside of the blower unit.

There are 2 10mm nuts that need to be removed first and the top part of the cowl should prise off revealing a foam gasket underneath which should carefully prise off. This leaves two studs with 8mm attached nuts that locate through the bulkhead and into the top of the blower unit. If you’ve aircon

there’s the little bosh motor for the recalculating flap that might hamper access.

With these bolts removed the blower unit is free to be removed once the 4 clips have been removed that hold the unit to the central matrix housing. Look down the join and you’ll see them easily. These are tricky and tend to ping off, but prise them free carefully – there’s two on the facing edge and two hidden behind. At this stage release the ECU from its cage attached to the rear of this unit. That just leaves the control cable to removed – carefully as described below! The securing clip (brown I think) is very tricky – but at least this one is more visible than the others underneath the matrix housing itself, so a good one to start with!! Once done it should now be possible to remove the whole blower unit assembly!

On air-con cars In the engine bay, release the large air-con connector block located low down below the ABS unit. Additionally, the rigid pipework is secured against the bulkhead (firewall) and against the front fore-arm. Follow the pipework to the first securing clamps and release (10mm socket). This will give additional movement as you pull the unions apart. Once apart, cover both exposed ends to prevent dirt entering the system.

Heater Matrix Removal The heater Matrix unit is secured by two bolts with pointed ends on a bracket at the rear that go through the fire wall and are bolted from that side. Depending on the engine these bolts can be relatively easy (as in my 80) or a PITA (as in the S2) to get at and remove! You will also

need to remove the two feed hoses from the matrix feed pipes sticking through the bulkhead. Secured with hose clips they simply pull off but careful with the water still in there! Back inside the car you will need to remove the control cables from the blower unit where they attach to various parts of the matrix consol. They are all colour coded and control the vent flaps to direct the hot or unheated air. The end of the wire has a small circular hoop that clips over the small stalk of the control mechanism for the various flaps. This will just prise off with a bit of persuasion – think I used some long nose pliars. This part of the Bowden cable moves freely whilst the outer sheath is secured to the matrix housing by colour coded clips. BE VERY CAREFUL with these clips!! They are so easy to snap if you rush this part and as with any such cable, if the outside sheath cant be properly secured again on refitting it wont work properly! Each clip has two attaching parts – a curved locating clip that slits in a small slot and cant immediately be seen and the larger fastening clip, which is the more visible. Prise off this larger and pointed clip from where it locates on the housing but continue to move it backwards in that direction to be sure to allow the hidden, curved clip at the base to be fully freed from its slot. Its usually this part that snaps off if you don’t provide enough movement for this smaller part of the fastening to become free and clear of the little slot! It’s a right PITA - but don’t rush this part!!

At this stage I removed the strut brace and released the electrical connector closest to the top bolt. The bottom bolt is so buried I couldn’t get a photo of it, but it is (just) possible to get an 8th of a turn on a spanner. It’ll take ages…

With these cables removed the matrix housing can be pulled from under the bulkhead and out – drawing the two feedpipes on the heater matrix itself and bolts as you go! The base has the footwell vents and also connects to the vents the run along the side of the transmission tunnel to the rear of the car. The vents just slot together and can be easily pulled apart.

With the whole unit free you can see the top of the heater matrix itself which is removed by drawing upwards out of the main housing. Depending on how much water leakage you’ve had now’s a good opportunity to clear the bits of carpet you never get to see!! Now all you’ve got to do it put it all together again!!

Air-Con – On the re-construction, it might be an idea to renew the seals disturbed on the Air-con pipe union. And as a general note, test the instrument bulbs as you go, they’ll not have enjoyed the excursion. This is a list of personal experiences and not a maintenance procedure.