Art Nouveau in Szegedand Subotica

A project is co-financed by theEuropean Union

SuboticaSombor

Szeged

Szeged and Subotica At the heart of the Pannonian Basin, between Danube and Tisa, Budapest and Belgrade, located only 50 kilometers from each other, lie the two cities and tourist centers - Szeged in Hungary and Subotica in Serbia.These two cities shared the same rulers and the same fate ever since the Mongol conquests in the Middle Ages and during the long Ottoman rule. In the eighteenth century, both cities were awarded the status of a free royal city by Austrian rulers, which then led to their rapid development into modern Central European cities. Within the borders of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, the reconstruction of Szeged after the Great Flood at the end of the nineteenth century, and the sudden industrialization of Subotica after the railway construction – shaped up and marked Szeged

and Subotica with a unique, ornate architecture that emerged at the turn of the century. Then, at the beginning of the twentieth century, many palaces, public buildings and private houses were built, all of which created a new image and contributed to the present shape of Szeged and Subotica. In addition to their common history and heritage, Szeged and Subotica are intertwined through unique cuisine, fine wines and quality brandies, slower plain-depicting pace of life and nature abundant in water bodies: river Tisa, Lake Palić and geothermal springs. Szeged and Subotica have everything that interests hedonism prone tourists, but a unique common cultural heritage – the attractive and appealing Art Nouveau architecture, is what makes them truly stand out.

Restoration of Szeged, after the great flood in 1879, defined the character of today's Szeged. The majority of old buildings were then demolished and new buildings and palaces took their place. Regarding that event, in one of the stained glass windows in the Szeged City Hall a promise of Emperor Francis Joseph is preserved: "Szeged will be much more beautiful than it was before." And so it was. At the beginning of the twentieth century, new Art Nouveau buildings nestled themselves within the already established urban core. In both Szeged, and Subotica, we can recognize two directions in Art Nouveau architecture. One direction, represented by avant-garde Hungarian artists, following their European counterparts, believed that industrial development leads to the destruction of beauty and that art should be introduced into everyday life, relying on vernacular architecture and tradition by using local materials. In search of national characteristics, studying folklore, folk art and vernacular architecture – a form of Art Nouveau with national characteristics was created – the Hungarian Secession. It does not only bring a new aesthetic, it penetrates into the very essence of construction. Natural elements, heart elements, leaves and tulip flowers intertwine, flow through the façade canvas, pressed into plaster, formed mostly in Zsolnay ceramics and terracotta, or entangled in wrought iron. These elements and patterns continue to gush and glide into the interior, skillfully transformed into lively and sophisticated lines and colors on the walls, complemented by ceramic plant-like details, stained glass windows with flamboyant colors and decorations. They do not stop here though, as we continue to recognize them in wrought iron, brass, copper, in interior elements, wooden furniture, and ceramics. Architects from the other Art Nouveau direction have created a specific architecture inspired by European influences. The famous Hungarian architect Ede Magyar, whose creative oeuvre dominates the center of Szeged, is often compared, not without merit, to the world-renowned Catalan architect Antonio Gaudi. Architect Ferenc Raichle, whose work adorns the neighboring Subotica, is also a part of this direction of Art Nouveau. In addition to these two architects, who built and created their most significant work in Szeged, many other architects, mostly from Budapest, left their mark on the city. Some of those architects are Lipót Baumhorn, architect of the New Synagogue, Ödön Lechner, Lajos Ybl, Alfréd Hajós and Ernő Foerk.Whether intentional, because it lies by two rivers, or by chance- yet water as a motif is reflected in the architecture of Szeged throughout many forms and wavy lines, water lily patterns and mystical atmosphere of river shores.

Art Nouveau in Szeged

A new art that was, at the turning point between the nineteenth and the twentieth century, inspired by the tumult of industrialization, urbanization and the rapidly changing society, were protesting against the strict canons of historicism and dominant styles. Therefore, Art Nouveau didn’t seek inspiration in previous epochs and art movements, but rather looked for ideas in nature, its forms and structure. Art Nouveau has left its mark on all forms of art and all areas of modern life. Art Nouveau is not just an art movement- it is a way of life. The main features of Art Nouveau architecture are wild, unrestrained forms full of curved lines, wavy shapes and unusual color combinations. Emphasized asymmetry and use of new materials and new construction techniques provided buildings a certain plasticity and sophisticated, sometimes even exaggerated, décor of the Art Nouveau ornament - playfulness. Geometric and floral motifs as well as images of women - have become favorite design elements of architects throughout Europe.

Although international in its core, in different regions, amplified by national feelings, it manifested itself in different forms. In Austria it was known as the Vienna Secession, in Germany as Jugendstil, in France and Belgium as Art Nouveau, in England as Modern Style, in Italy as Liberty style and in the Austro-Hungarian Empire - Secession.

About Art Nouveau

Sculpturally shaped, with wavy walls and creative floral decorations, Reök Palace is one of the most beautiful Art Nouveau buildings in Hungary. The corner three-storey palace was designed, for Ivan Reök and his family, by Hungarian architect Ede Magyar. The palace was built in 1907, at the same time as similar buildings were being built in major European cities. Ede Magyar was only 29 years old when the engineer Reök appointed him as the architect, with faith that he will invest his youthful passion and energy into the project. And so it was: this outstanding palace was, with help of local artists and craftsmen, completed in just a year and a half. On the upper floors of the palace there were bachelor apartments for Reök’s sons and slightly bigger apartments for his daughters. On the ground floor, on the corner, there was a restaurant and the sides- shops and studios for craftsmen and traders. To the left of the entrance was Ede Magyar’s architectural bureau.

Bold, novel and lavish ornamentation, symbolism that has yet to be deciphered – still surprise art historians and visitors. The wavy forms of the Reök Palace façade, like a big relief, tell us the story about a mythological tranquil area by the water. If the curved corner of the building is carefully observed, a shape of a ship's bow can be recognized - which supports the story about the intriguing motif of water. Stylized floral patterns of blooming lilies and ivy creep into the interior and continue along the stairs.

The staircase, which is an artistic tour de force, was built, following the architect’s drawings, by the Szeged blacksmith Pál Fekete and this is an example, typical for secession, of synthesis of art and craft.

Reök palace is an excellent example of the new spirit, new ideas and new solutions. It is not without merit to compare the palace, its façades and interiors, with the works of the Catalan architect Antonio Gaudi and his famous Casa Batllo and Casa Mila in Barcelona.

Reök’s palace survived wars and different regimes and since 2007, when it was last renovated, it is the home of the Regional art center. It organizes various cultural programs and exhibitions. The ground floor of the palace is now a cafe-restaurant, an interesting place to meet and spend time, in an unusual Art Nouveau interior.

Reök – Regional Art CenterTisza Lajos krt. 56, Szeged, Hungary

Tel: +36 62 471 411info@reok.huwww.reok.hu

Opening hours of the gallery: from Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 to 18:00

Working hours of the cafe-restaurant: Monday to Saturday from 10:00 to 23:00

Reök palaceTisza Lajos Street no. 56.

New Synagogue in Szeged is a monumental building that already impresses visitors with its dimensions. It is 48.5 meters high and can accommodate 1340 people. The synagogue was designed by the Budapest architect Lipót Baumhorn, author of 22 synagogues in Hungary. Szeged synagogue was built in 1903 and belongs to the Moorish version of Art Nouveau, at the time popular among synagogue builders and architects in Europe.

The most beautiful part of the synagogue's interior is the dome, symbolizing the world. The infinity of the world is represented by a large number of stars scattered throughout the cobalt-blue glass dome, which darkens gradually towards the top. The dome itself rests on 24 pillars, symbolizing the 24 hours in a day. Above the pillars, there are countless pomegranate flowers, symbolizing Jewish faith. At the top of the dome, above the pomegranate floral patterns, there is a six-pointed Star of David encrusted with golden sun rays. The stained glass dome and the Synagogue’s stained glass windows were created in the renowned workshop of Miksa Róth.Above the altar area there is a small dome that represents a simplified version of the large dome. Massive bronze menorah candle holders frame the altar area, behind which is a large organ. The menorahs are made of bronze and the two middle ones are encrusted with gold and semi-precious stones. The key stone of the altar is made of marble brought from Jerusalem. Today, as well as one hundred years ago, the Szeged Synagogue enchants and astonishes visitors with an unusual blend of modest piety and imposing splendor - so typical for the turn of the century.

The synagogue was renovated in 1989. Today, it is surrounded by a small willow tree park. At the entrance to the synagogue there is a marble plate with the names of all Jews from Szeged and the surroundings that were deported during World War II. In the next room there is a small photo exhibition devoted to the fate of the synagogue during World War II..

New Synagogue Jósika Street no. 10

Miksa Róth (1865-1944) was one of the world-renowned stained

glass artists. He learned the basics of the craft from his father

while self-educating by studying medieval stained glass

windows. A major breakthrough in his career was winning the

competition for the Hungarian Parliament stained glass

windows. After that, numerous different orders followed, among

others- for many Art Nouveau buildings in Szeged and Subotica.

What sets him apart as a master is a special technique of

making stained glass- instead of simply painting on glass, he

used more layers of glass placed on top of each other, in order to

achieve the desired effect.

Miksa Róth

Szeged, Jósika Street no. 10+36 62 423 849

www.zsinagoga.szeged.huVisiting hours:

from April 1st to September 30th, every day from 10:00 to 12:00 and from 13:00 to 17:00;

from 1st of October to 31st of March every day from 9:00 to 14:00; closed on Saturdays

.

This corner three-story tenement palace was built in 1911 and belongs to late Art Nouveau. For Beno Ungár and Áron Mayer, this building was designed by the renowned architect Ede Magyar. The building dominates the busy square in the center of Szeged, and therefore, on the ground floor, without too much ornamentation and portending modernism, shops with large glass windows were designed.

The interior of the building, with an elaborate staircase and a ceiling painted with Art Nouveau elements, is much more ornate and lavish. The façades of the upper floors are more complex than the ground floor of the building, but the pinnacle of the entire palace is the tower on the corner. The tower, visible from afar, is known for its tin, half-naked female figures holding hands and dancing, it seems, above the entire city.

When it was built, the Ungár-Mayer Palace was the second tallest building in Szeged. It was completely renovated in 2000 and today it looks the same as a century ago.

Ungár-Mayer Palace Kárász Street no. 16

Goldschmidt 's palace was designed by the famous architect Ede Magyar as an Art Nouveau building. It was built in 1905. This original two-story palace with shops on the ground floor and apartments on the first floor, was remodeled in the fifties of the last century, to fulfill the need for a large number of small functional apartment units. It was then that the building was virtually stripped bare, with almost all decorative elements of the façade and balconies removed.

Surprisingly, in the entrance hall of the Goldschmidt Palace all the original decorations were preserved. Namely, these are figures of girls, in plaster, offering flowers to the visitors of the palace. Typical for Art Nouveau, they are depicted in motion. Inspirations for the figures were famous French ballet dancers of the time. The idealized figures of girls are a direct link between the architecture of Szeged and European symbolism and Art Nouveau.

Goldschmidt PalaceTábor Street no. 4

Magyar Ede (1877 - 1912), born in Szeged,

traveled to Belgium and France while studying

architecture in Budapest. With his European

experience, youth, great energy, determination,

boldness and talent – he opposed the prevailing canons

and rules and the dominant boring taste and by designing Reök

palace, Ungár-Mayer Palace, Református-palota (Reformist

church palace) and Shaffer Palace – connected Szeged to Europe.

He died young, by committing suicide at 35. Although he did not

live long, Ede Magyar is one of the most important architects

of Art Nouveau in Hungary.

Ede Magyar

In 1913, in only 13 months, based on a Ferenc Raichle’s project, this three-story Art Nouveau palace was built. The palace overlooks three streets, has three façades, two towers and many balconies. The dynamic play of outward and inward elements of the façade, the dialog of shapes and sizes of windows and diverse decoration, create a lively form of the building, typical for architecture from the turn of the century. Wavy contours of the wall and rich gold and blue mosaics are the focal decorations of the main façade. Folk art elements and oriental art patterns are easily distinguishable on the façade.

The modern interior and a steel staircase with wrought iron railing are richly decorated with Art Nouveau elements. Craftsmanship in every single detail completes the grandeur of Gróf Palace.

The ground floor of the palace contains shops while the upper floors contain apartments. Both the function and the appearance did not change for one hundred years, ever since this extraordinary palace was build. Dr. Árpád Gróf, a lawyer, held a high position in the city and had no financial issues. When commissioning this tenement palace, he had in mind the exact type of future clients: modern professional career-driven people who can afford high rents - people of the new age.

Gróf Palace Tisza Lajos krt. no. 20

The project for this three-story corner building, on behalf of the city, was appointed to the architect Ferenc Raichle, by József Móricz, a postal clerk. The house was built between 1910 and 1912. The interesting part is the adorned, ascetic blue Zsolnay ceramic ornamentation as well as wrought iron railings on the balconies. There is also a heart motif visible, often present in Raichle’s work.

The building was once illuminated by gaslights, and the heating system consisted of tile stoves - everything to ensure comfort and high living standards of the first tenants of the house. The common area in the building was painted with Art Nouveau murals. Beside every large, comfortable apartment there was a small one for the maids and service staff. In the fifties of the twentieth century, large apartments were confiscated and turned into smaller renting units. It was then that the plaster ornaments on the façade were covered with a plain, flat layer of plaster and thus hidden. Murals were painted over and the wrought iron staircase dismantled. In 2007, the city sold the building to private contractors who rebuilt it and now it is one of the most beautiful Art Nouveau buildings in Szeged.

Móricz HouseSzent Mihály Street no. 9

This building is the best example of the Hungarian version of Art Nouveau– Hungarian Secession in Szeged. It was built between 1900 and 1902 and designed by a local architect, Mihály Erdélyi. The façade and the staircase were designed by Ödön Lechner, Budapest architect and founder of this particular style in Art Nouveau architecture, a style that found inspiration in Hungarian folk art. Elements and patterns from nature, heart motifs, tangled leaves and tulip flowers, flowing across the façade canvas, pressed into plaster, shaped by Zsolnay ceramics and intertwined in wrought iron as balcony decoration. Art historians and theoreticians of Art Nouveau architecture compare the façade of this building to a sonata frozen in space.

Deutsch Palace Dózsa Street no. 2

The Art Nouveau palace of the Christian Reformed church community was designed by Ede Magyar. The palace was built in 1912. It contained apartments for the priests and students of the Szeged Protestant school.

It is a three-story palace with a "V" shaped base. The façade is made of stone with only a few decorative elements. The balcony above the main entrance is decorated with marble statues of singing children. On the façade that faces the Tisza Lajos Street, there is a mosaic with a sowing motif and on the façade facing the Calvin Square, a mosaic depicting a harvest. The palace was renovated in 1991, and today it is a commercial-residential building, with offices and apartments on upper floors and shops on the ground floor.

A tragic story is related to this building, a story of its architect, Ede Magyar. While Magyar was working on several projects and coordinating their construction, he fell in love with his client's wife, which caused some financial problems as well. Magyar tried to start over but his wife’s refusal to grant him a divorce brought him in what he felt was a hopeless situation. In this house, Ede Magyar committed suicide with a pistol.

Reformist Church PalaceKálvin Square no. 2

Studied architecture in Budapest and then in Berlin. After

graduation, he spent one year in Italy and later visited Paris and

London. There he encountered the New Art. For a while, he

designed together with his colleague Gyula Pártos and worked

closely with the owner of the decorative ceramics factory in Pécs,

Zsolnay Vilmos. His most famous building is the Museum of

Applied Arts in Budapest

Odön Lechner (1845 � 1914)

The water tower, designed by Szilárd Zielinski, was built in 1904 and has the characteristics of a geometric Art Nouveau. As with many other Art Nouveau buildings, this was the first time that certain innovations in architecture were applied. For the construction of the water tower, which was groundbreaking at the time, reinforced concrete was used. This kind of construction made it possible for the Water Tower to have large dimension, namely a capacity of over 1000 cubic meters of water and the height of over 55 meters. At the time it was built, this was the tallest water tower in the world.A former Grain market, where the Water Tower was built, is now a beautiful park. In addition to its original function, the renovated Water Tower is also a tourist attraction as visitors can see the Foucault’s pendulum that hangs in the middle of the tower and empirically proves Earth’s rotation. The Water Tower also serves as a belvedere, from which one can see Szeged, Tisa and the city surroundings.

Water Tower Szent István Square

Pista Dankó (1858-1903), born in Szeged, had composed many folk songs that have become a standard and are still sung today. He died young, taken by the disease of the times - tuberculosis. There is a story noted regarding his funeral, that a gipsy orchestra of 500 violins was playing at the procession.

The Pista Dankó monument was created by the famous Hungarian sculptor Ede Margó in 1912. The monument has Art Nouveau characteristics and is made of white marble with hints of pink and shows Pista Dankó with his violin, next to a bush of wild roses. The author of the monument, Ede Margó, out of respect for the artist, did not ask for a compensation for his work.

Pista Dankó StatueStefánia sétány.

Szeged, Szent István Square +36 62 558 842 Opening hours

first Saturday in the month from 10:00 to 16:00; during the Summer Open-air Theatre Festival, on days when

there are shows, from 10:00 to 18:00; Groups of 10 and more persons, by opening hours,

can visit the Water Tower outside working hours

Art Nouveau Road begins with a tour of the Ungár-Mayer Palace, which dominates the main shopping street. Not far from it is the Reök palace, which many compare to the most beautiful creations of European Art Nouveau. The interior of the palace is as intriguing as its façade. Next stop is the visit to the New Synagogue and its surreal cobalt blue glass dome. Three blocks a way is the Goldschmidt Palace, with its entrance hallway.

The Art Nouveau Road continues with a tour of the Reformist Church Palace, connected with the tragic story of its architect. The Water Tower, next stop on the Art Nouveau Road, is interesting because of its belvedere.

Then the Móricz House, an excellent example of how an old art Nouveau building can shine again. Following an imaginary semicircle, the Road leads to the Gróf Palace, an unusual building which faces three streets.

The Art Nouveau Road ends in front of the Art Nouveau Deutsch Palace which some compare to a ‘sonata frozen in space’, and finally, the statue of legendary Szeged musician Dankó Pista.

Art Nouveau Road in Szeged

1. UNGÁR-MAYER PALACE (Kárász Street no. 16)

2. REÖK PALACE (Tisza Lajos krt. no. 56)

3. NEW SYNAGOGUE (Jósika Street no. 10)

4. GOLDSCHMIDT PALACE (Tábor Street no. 4)

5. REFORMIST CHURCH PALACE (Kálvin Square no. 2)

6. WATER TOWER (Szent István Square)

7. MÓRICZ HOUSE (Szent Mihály Street no. 9)

8. GRÓF PALACE (Tisza Lajos krt. no. 20)

9. DEUTSCH PALACE (Dózsa Street no. 2)

10. PISTA DANKÓ STATUE (Stefánia sétány)

Art Nouveau Route of the micro-region Szeged - Subotica, with a visit to Palić and a trip to Sombor, is 100 kilometers long. For this tour as well as enjoying other delights of this region such as its excellent cuisine, strong spirits and fine wines, bathing in spas or long walks by the lake - we recommend a three-day program. All necessary assistance for organizing individual or group tours will be provided by the Tourist information centers in Szeged, Subotica and Sombor.

Art Nouveau Route Szeged (HU) � Palic (RS) � Subotica (RS) � Sombor (RS)

st 1 day - Szeged1. Ungár-Mayer Palace (Kárász Street no. 16)2. Reök Palace (Tisza Lajos krt. no. 56)3. New Synagogue (Jósika Street no. 10)4. Goldschmidt Palace (Tábor Street no. 4)5. Reformist Church Palace (Kálvin Square no. 2)6. Water Tower (Szent István Square )7. Móricz House (Szent Mihály Street no. 9) 8. Gróf Palace (Tisza Lajos krt. 20)9. Deutsch Palace (Dózsa Street no. 2)10. Pista Dankó statue (Stefánia sétány)

rd 3 day - Sombor1. Veidinger Palace (Laze Kostića Street no. 5 and 7)2. Music School (Venac Petra Bojovića no. 9)3. Singer Palace (Kralja Petra I Street no. 15)4. Konjović Family Palace (Kralja Petra I Street no. 10)5. National Cinema (Kralja Petra I Street)

st 2 day - Palic and Subotica

1. Water Tower (Palić, Park heroja nn)2. Grand Terrace and the Blue Vases (Palić, Park heroja nn)3. Music Pavilion and Memorial Fountain (Palić, Park heroja nn)4. Women's Lido (Palić, Lajoš Vermeš Strand nn)5. Synagogue (Trg sinagoge no. 6)6. Dömötör Miksa Palace (Trg sinagoge no. 3)7. Town Tenement Palace (Branislav Nušić Street no. 2)8. City Hall (Trg slobode no. 1)9. Subotica Savings Bank Palace (Korzo Street no. 4)10. Ferenc Raichle Family Palace (Ferenc Raichle Park no. 5)

12

2

5

7

91

0

11

12 1

2

5

91

0

6

78

4

3

Tou

rin

form

Dug

onic

s té

r 2,

672

0 S

zege

d, H

unga

ryP

hon

e +

36 6

2 48

8 69

0Е

-ma

il s

zege

d@to

urin

form

.hu

http

://t

ip.s

zege

dvar

os.h

u w

ww

.sze

ged.

hu

1. U

NG

ÁR

-MA

YE

R P

AL

AC

E (

Kár

ász

Str

eet

no. 1

6)2.

RE

ÖK

PA

LA

CE

(Ti

sza

Laj

os k

rt. n

o. 5

6)3.

NE

W S

YN

AG

OG

UE

(J

ósik

a S

tree

t no

. 10)

4.

GO

LD

SC

HM

IDT

PA

LA

CE

(T

ábor

Str

eet

no. 4

)5.

RE

FO

RM

IST

CH

UR

CH

PA

LA

CE

(K

álvi

n S

quar

e no

. 2)

6.

WA

TE

R T

OW

ER

(S

zent

Istv

án S

quar

e )

7. M

ÓR

ICZ

HO

US

E (

Sze

nt M

ihál

y S

tree

t no

. 9)

8.

GR

ÓF

PA

LA

CE

(Ti

sza

Laj

os k

rt. 2

0)9.

DE

UT

SC

H P

AL

AC

E (

Dóz

sa S

tree

t no

. 2)

10. P

ISTA

DA

NK

Ó S

TAT

UE

(S

tefá

nia

sétá

ny)

Sze

ged