areas of innovation è fashion: innovation as to color (s) effects, finishing effects è...
TRANSCRIPT
Areas of Innovation
Fashion: innovation as to color (s) effects , finishing effects
Performance: Easy Care, functional properties Leather Processing : Ecology, resources (chemicals,
energy, water)
Innovation in the Leather Industry
What will trigger innovation
Legislations : REACH, International Protocols on Greenhouse Gas Emissions
Scarcity of resources : Energy, chemicals , water
Pressure on leather as a material
At same we need to ask who wiil be paying (more) for what kind of innovation?
Europe’s strength in Innovation
Europe still has a good pool of leather technologists, engineers and chemists –BUT: This is about to change
Europe has numerous leather institutes and schools as a base for good education
Europe possesses a powerful chemical and machinery industry
The efficiency of R&D and innovation in Europe is high
Weakness / Threats for innovation in Europe
Costs for R&D activities in Europe are high Level of education and experience in areas outside Europe has
greatly improved Tanneries in emerging countries have become global players .
This triggers a demand for local R&D and innovation REACH is bureaucratic monster and will absorb resources
( which are not available for research) , it will lead to a reduction of available chemicals which must not necessarily be considered a problem
Opportunities
REACH and concerns regarding ecology and toxicity can further accelerate the development and production of leather as a high end , high quality material with unique properties ( re-discover leather and market it adequately )
Compliance with REACH will become a ’de facto ‘ requirement also outside of Europe , European companies being the closest to this development could be the first to be ‘REACH compliant’
REACH regulation offers special provisions (PPORD) which facilitate the development and test marketing of new chemical products
What is necessary ?
Clear positioning of all partners as to quality, ecology and sustainability in leather making
Find out what makes leather unique as a material for designers and decision makers
Pool resources ( within EU projects , collaboration of industry partners ) – less but meaningful projects involving as many as possible partners of the supply chain
Seek the partnership with leading international retail chains Tanneries open up to alternative value adding processing of
hides ( collagen)?
This development may go along with a further restructuring and consolidation of the European Leather and Supply Industry
Consumer expectations
Value
Leather holds value: - Appearance &- Experience
Performance
- Durability ( shape ,color, surface after wear)- Comfort ( ‘feel’, ‘smell ’: how close to nature)- Easy care
Ethics Animal treatmentEnvironment / Ecology
Fashion Color, textures, effects
Uniqueness of leather
uniqueness
Polymer to -Cover defects -Protect from soiling, wear, elements
Collagen fiber network -max. thermal comfort-water uptake /release -water vapor permeability -very high mech. strength-unique look and texture
-Not renewable -resources (fossil)
-Waste-Toxic substances-energy/resources