ruth osborn’s - bernina

•Voguepattern2850&patternrequirements

•Thisblousehasbeenmadewithsilkchiffon,withanextrahalfametrepurchasedforliningandembellishing.

•80Machineneedle•Darningfoot•Hoop

•MadeiraRayoncol.1071,1000metrespool

•MadeiraGlamourcol.3022,200metrespool.

•MadeiraGlamourMachineneedle•AvalonPlus–1metre•Smallsharpscissors

MATERIALS LIST

Ruth Osborn’s SILKCHIFFONBLOUSE

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STEP 1• Thetopofthisblousehasbeenlined

withsilkchiffon,andsothemethodofassemblingthegarmenthasbeenadapted.

• Fromthechiffon,cuttwobacksections,andfourfrontsections,theties,andthebiasstrips.

• Whencuttingoutthecollarsections,cutaroundtheneckline,butallowanextra3cmaroundtheloweredgeofthecollar.

• Forthepeplam,cutalongthewaistlineandthesideseams,thenallowanextra3cms,downthefronts,thefrontedges,andthefrontandbackloweredges.

STEP 2• Sewthedartsofthefrontsections,and

thentheshoulderandsideseams,pressandplacetooneside.

• Sewthetiesandturn,jointheneckbiasandthetwoarmholefacingbiasstrips.

• WithaFrenchseam,jointhecollarsections,andthesideseamsofthepeplam.

• Pressallseamsanddarts.Sewastaystitchlinearoundtheneckedgeofthecollarandthewaistlineofthepeplam.

STEP 3 • Cuta15cmstripofAvalonPlus,andlay

underthefrontedgeofthecollar.Pininplace.Loadintothehoop.Insertthe80machineneedle,windafewbobbinswiththeMadeirarayon1071,insertabobbinandthreadthemachinewith1071.Itisimportanttouseanewneedle,thesilkiscobwebfine,andthreadpullscanresultwithafaultyneedle.

• Startingatthefrontedgeofthecollar,loadthehoopwithAvalon,withfrontedgeofthecollarrestinggentlyonthesurfaceoftheAvalon.

• Lowerthefeeddogsandreducethetoptensiontoalmostzero.Reducethebobbintension.Sewasamplebeforeattemptingtheblouse,tocheckthetensions,astheyhavebeenreduced,toallowthethreadstojustsitonthesurfaceofthesilk,withoutcausinganypuckering.Adjustasnecessary.

Sample1• Whenyouhavethecorrecttension,sewa

wavylineapprox3cminfromtheedge,thedepthwillvarydependingonthedepthoftheline.Sewbackalongthisline.

Sample2• Embroiderthetopsectionofyourdesign,

bysewinganotherlinefrom3to5cminfromthefirstline.Varythedepth,andoccasionallyrunuptoapeak,{seesample}.Fillinbetweenthisarea,withsmallcompactcornellistitching.

• CutanotherpieceofAvalon,andslightlyoverlapthelastsectionofAvalon.Repeatthepreviousstepsforembellishing.Continuetoworkaroundtheedgeofthecollarinthismanner;untilcompleted,donotwashoutthestabilizeratthisstage.

Sample3• Removethepiecefromthemachine,and

withsmallsharpscissors,trimthebottomedgeofthesilkawayfromthebaselineofstitching

Sample4• Placeonthemachineagain,andsew

anotherwavylineofstitchingontotheAvalonapprox.3cmbelowthecutawaylineofthesilk.Doublebackalongthisline,andthenfillintheareabetweenthislineofstitchingandthesilk,toformalaceedging.Besuretoanchorthelaceedgingfirmlytothesilk.Rememberwhenmachiningthislaceedging,thatthesewinglinesMUSToverlaptoconnecttoeachother.Iftheydon’t,whenthestabilizeriswashedaway,thelacecandeveloplargeholeswhereitisnolongersupported.

STEP 4• Workthepeplaminthesamemanner

astheyoke,startingononesideofthewaistlineatthecenterfront,andworkallthewayarounduntilyoucompletetheotherfrontsection.

STEP 5 Sample4• TopthreadthemachinewithMadeira

Glamour3022.InserttheGlamourneedle.Lightlycornellioverthepreviousmachineembroidery,bothonthesilkandthestabilizerlace.Doafewlightswirlshereandthere,andalsorunupanypeaksyoumayhavemade,onthesilk.

• Whenyouhavefinishedboththecollarandthepeplam,placethemtosoakincoldwater.Iliketousealargetub,withplentyofwater,andleavetosoakovernight.Rinsewellinthemorning,andsoakagainforanotherhourorso.Rinse,andremovetheexcesswaterbylightlywringinginatowel.Layflat,andpullintoshapetodry.

• Ifyourhandsfeelatallstickyafterthisstep,thentheitemsneedtobesoakedforalongerperiodtoremovethelastofthestabilizer.

• Presswhendry.

STEP 6 ASSEMBLING• Positionthepeplamalongtheloweredge

ofoneoftheblousesections,rightsidesfacing.Youmayneedtoeaseitin,tackinplace.Placetherightsideoftheremainingblousesectionontopoftheothersideofthepeplam{wrongside},easetofit,andtackinplace.Threadthemachineandchangetheneedleforstraightsewing,sewaroundthetackedseam.Trimtheseam,andpresstheblousetopupwards.

• Tacktheblousesectionstogetheraroundthearmholes.Foldthebiassectionsinhalflengthwise.Tacktotherightsideofthearmhole,straightstitch,trimandfoldthebiasovertherawedgestotheinside.Handsewinplacetofinish.

• Tackthetwonecklinestogether.Pinthetiestotheblouseatthewaistline,tackinplace.

• Laythefrontpatternpieceonfrontnecklinetocheckifthisareahasstretchedduringsewing.Ifithas,runtwogatheringlinesaroundthenecklineandeasebacktosize.

• Followtheremainingblouseinstructionstofinishtheblouse.

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