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ruth osborn’s - bernina

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• Vogue pattern 2850 & pattern requirements • This blouse has been made with silk chiffon, with an extra half a metre purchased for lining and embellishing. • 80 Machine needle • Darning foot • Hoop • Madeira Rayon col. 1071, 1000 metre spool • Madeira Glamour col.3022, 200 metre spool. • Madeira Glamour Machine needle • Avalon Plus – 1metre • Small sharp scissors MATERIALS LIST Ruth Osborn’s SILK CHIFFON BLOUSE STEP 1 • The top of this blouse has been lined with silk chiffon, and so the method of assembling the garment has been adapted. • From the chiffon, cut two back sections, and four front sections, the ties, and the bias strips. • When cutting out the collar sections, cut around the neckline, but allow an extra 3 cm around the lower edge of the collar. • For the peplam, cut along the waistline and the side seams, then allow an extra 3 cms, down the fronts, the front edges, and the front and back lower edges. STEP 2 • Sew the darts of the front sections, and then the shoulder and side seams, press and place to one side. • Sew the ties and turn, join the neck bias and the two armhole facing bias strips. • With a French seam, join the collar sections, and the side seams of the peplam. • Press all seams and darts. Sew a stay stitch line around the neck edge of the collar and the waist line of the peplam. STEP 3 • Cut a 15 cm strip of Avalon Plus, and lay under the front edge of the collar. Pin in place. Load into the hoop. Insert the 80 machine needle, wind a few bobbins with the Madeira rayon 1071, insert a bobbin and thread the machine with 1071. It is important to use a new needle, the silk is cobweb fine, and thread pulls can result with a faulty needle. • Starting at the front edge of the collar, load the hoop with Avalon, with front edge of the collar resting gently on the surface of the Avalon. • Lower the feed dogs and reduce the top tension to almost zero. Reduce the bobbin tension. Sew a sample before attempting the blouse, to check the tensions, as they have been reduced, to allow the threads to just sit on the surface of the silk, with out causing any puckering. Adjust as necessary. Sample 1 • When you have the correct tension, sew a wavy line approx 3 cm in from the edge, the depth will vary depending on the depth of the line. Sew back along this line. Sample 2 • Embroider the top section of your design, by sewing another line from 3 to 5 cm in from the first line. Vary the depth, and occasionally run up to a peak, {see sample}. Fill in between this area, with small compact cornelli stitching. • Cut another piece of Avalon, and slightly over lap the last section of Avalon. Repeat the previous steps for embellishing. Continue to work around the edge of the collar in this manner; until completed, do not wash out the stabilizer at this stage. Sample 3 • Remove the piece from the machine, and with small sharp scissors, trim the bottom edge of the silk away from the base line of stitching Sample 4 • Place on the machine again, and sew another wavy line of stitching onto the Avalon approx. 3 cm below the cutaway line of the silk. Double back along this line, and then fill in the area between this line of stitching and the silk, to form a lace edging. Be sure to anchor the lace edging firmly to the silk. Remember when machining this lace edging, that the sewing lines MUST overlap to connect to each other. If they don’t, when the stabilizer is washed away, the lace can develop large holes where it is no longer supported. STEP 4 • Work the peplam in the same manner as the yoke, starting on one side of the waistline at the center front, and work all the way around until you complete the other front section. STEP 5 Sample 4 • Top thread the machine with Madeira Glamour 3022. Insert the Glamour needle. Lightly cornelli over the previous machine embroidery, both on the silk and the stabilizer lace. Do a few light swirls here and there, and also run up any peaks you may have made, on the silk. • When you have finished both the collar and the peplam, place them to soak in cold water. I like to use a large tub, with plenty of water, and leave to soak over night. Rinse well in the morning, and soak again for another hour or so. Rinse, and remove the excess water by lightly wringing in a towel. Lay flat, and pull into shape to dry. • If your hands feel at all sticky after this step, then the items need to be soaked for a longer period to remove the last of the stabilizer. • Press when dry. STEP 6 ASSEMBLING • Position the peplam along the lower edge of one of the blouse sections, right sides facing. You may need to ease it in, tack in place. Place the right side of the remaining blouse section on top of the other side of the peplam {wrong side}, ease to fit, and tack in place. Thread the machine and change the needle for straight sewing, sew around the tacked seam. Trim the seam, and press the blouse top upwards. • Tack the blouse sections together around the armholes. Fold the bias sections in half lengthwise. Tack to the right side of the arm hole, straight stitch, trim and fold the bias over the raw edges to the inside. Hand sew in place to finish. • Tack the two necklines together. Pin the ties to the blouse at the waistline, tack in place. • Lay the front pattern piece on front neckline to check if this area has stretched during sewing. If it has, run two gathering lines around the neckline and ease back to size. • Follow the remaining blouse instructions to finish the blouse. www.bernina.com.au

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Page 1: Ruth Osborn’s - BERNINA

•Voguepattern2850&patternrequirements

•Thisblousehasbeenmadewithsilkchiffon,withanextrahalfametrepurchasedforliningandembellishing.

•80Machineneedle•Darningfoot•Hoop

•MadeiraRayoncol.1071,1000metrespool

•MadeiraGlamourcol.3022,200metrespool.

•MadeiraGlamourMachineneedle•AvalonPlus–1metre•Smallsharpscissors

MATERIALS LIST

Ruth Osborn’s SILKCHIFFONBLOUSE

www.bernina.com.au

STEP 1• Thetopofthisblousehasbeenlined

withsilkchiffon,andsothemethodofassemblingthegarmenthasbeenadapted.

• Fromthechiffon,cuttwobacksections,andfourfrontsections,theties,andthebiasstrips.

• Whencuttingoutthecollarsections,cutaroundtheneckline,butallowanextra3cmaroundtheloweredgeofthecollar.

• Forthepeplam,cutalongthewaistlineandthesideseams,thenallowanextra3cms,downthefronts,thefrontedges,andthefrontandbackloweredges.

STEP 2• Sewthedartsofthefrontsections,and

thentheshoulderandsideseams,pressandplacetooneside.

• Sewthetiesandturn,jointheneckbiasandthetwoarmholefacingbiasstrips.

• WithaFrenchseam,jointhecollarsections,andthesideseamsofthepeplam.

• Pressallseamsanddarts.Sewastaystitchlinearoundtheneckedgeofthecollarandthewaistlineofthepeplam.

STEP 3 • Cuta15cmstripofAvalonPlus,andlay

underthefrontedgeofthecollar.Pininplace.Loadintothehoop.Insertthe80machineneedle,windafewbobbinswiththeMadeirarayon1071,insertabobbinandthreadthemachinewith1071.Itisimportanttouseanewneedle,thesilkiscobwebfine,andthreadpullscanresultwithafaultyneedle.

• Startingatthefrontedgeofthecollar,loadthehoopwithAvalon,withfrontedgeofthecollarrestinggentlyonthesurfaceoftheAvalon.

• Lowerthefeeddogsandreducethetoptensiontoalmostzero.Reducethebobbintension.Sewasamplebeforeattemptingtheblouse,tocheckthetensions,astheyhavebeenreduced,toallowthethreadstojustsitonthesurfaceofthesilk,withoutcausinganypuckering.Adjustasnecessary.

Sample1• Whenyouhavethecorrecttension,sewa

wavylineapprox3cminfromtheedge,thedepthwillvarydependingonthedepthoftheline.Sewbackalongthisline.

Sample2• Embroiderthetopsectionofyourdesign,

bysewinganotherlinefrom3to5cminfromthefirstline.Varythedepth,andoccasionallyrunuptoapeak,{seesample}.Fillinbetweenthisarea,withsmallcompactcornellistitching.

• CutanotherpieceofAvalon,andslightlyoverlapthelastsectionofAvalon.Repeatthepreviousstepsforembellishing.Continuetoworkaroundtheedgeofthecollarinthismanner;untilcompleted,donotwashoutthestabilizeratthisstage.

Sample3• Removethepiecefromthemachine,and

withsmallsharpscissors,trimthebottomedgeofthesilkawayfromthebaselineofstitching

Sample4• Placeonthemachineagain,andsew

anotherwavylineofstitchingontotheAvalonapprox.3cmbelowthecutawaylineofthesilk.Doublebackalongthisline,andthenfillintheareabetweenthislineofstitchingandthesilk,toformalaceedging.Besuretoanchorthelaceedgingfirmlytothesilk.Rememberwhenmachiningthislaceedging,thatthesewinglinesMUSToverlaptoconnecttoeachother.Iftheydon’t,whenthestabilizeriswashedaway,thelacecandeveloplargeholeswhereitisnolongersupported.

STEP 4• Workthepeplaminthesamemanner

astheyoke,startingononesideofthewaistlineatthecenterfront,andworkallthewayarounduntilyoucompletetheotherfrontsection.

STEP 5 Sample4• TopthreadthemachinewithMadeira

Glamour3022.InserttheGlamourneedle.Lightlycornellioverthepreviousmachineembroidery,bothonthesilkandthestabilizerlace.Doafewlightswirlshereandthere,andalsorunupanypeaksyoumayhavemade,onthesilk.

• Whenyouhavefinishedboththecollarandthepeplam,placethemtosoakincoldwater.Iliketousealargetub,withplentyofwater,andleavetosoakovernight.Rinsewellinthemorning,andsoakagainforanotherhourorso.Rinse,andremovetheexcesswaterbylightlywringinginatowel.Layflat,andpullintoshapetodry.

• Ifyourhandsfeelatallstickyafterthisstep,thentheitemsneedtobesoakedforalongerperiodtoremovethelastofthestabilizer.

• Presswhendry.

STEP 6 ASSEMBLING• Positionthepeplamalongtheloweredge

ofoneoftheblousesections,rightsidesfacing.Youmayneedtoeaseitin,tackinplace.Placetherightsideoftheremainingblousesectionontopoftheothersideofthepeplam{wrongside},easetofit,andtackinplace.Threadthemachineandchangetheneedleforstraightsewing,sewaroundthetackedseam.Trimtheseam,andpresstheblousetopupwards.

• Tacktheblousesectionstogetheraroundthearmholes.Foldthebiassectionsinhalflengthwise.Tacktotherightsideofthearmhole,straightstitch,trimandfoldthebiasovertherawedgestotheinside.Handsewinplacetofinish.

• Tackthetwonecklinestogether.Pinthetiestotheblouseatthewaistline,tackinplace.

• Laythefrontpatternpieceonfrontnecklinetocheckifthisareahasstretchedduringsewing.Ifithas,runtwogatheringlinesaroundthenecklineandeasebacktosize.

• Followtheremainingblouseinstructionstofinishtheblouse.

www.bernina.com.au

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